I had a similar problem with a good, but rather flimsy-built drill press. Ended up cannibalising the same sort of jack, using the screw to make an adjustable table support , controlled by a 2" diameter knurled wheel. This works remarkable well, and it doesn't even look out-of-place ! Paddy
Nicely done Steve. I particularly like your idea of propping the drill press table for heavy cutting or more precise work when the flex of the table could make a difference. Thank you for the video.
Hi Glenn, Thanks. Yes I'm very pleased with the scissor jack method. It makes the table rock solid. I was quite surprised at how much the table flexes under load. I only found out recently about the bottle jack method, but when I tried it, there is not enough feel control on the pump to get it right, without lifting the table and after leaving it set overnight it tends to drop a bit. The scissor jack is a much more positive feel.
+brockfuzzy69 Hi yes the set up is really exellent. Since having this lathe and taking it apart and putting it together again, I think the man who designed and made it was an absolute practical genius. Thanks for watching Regards Steve
Steve, thanks for the information. I've almost completed my ML7 build (bought as a pile of parts). I was looking into why the cross slide came to a stop early! So now the cross slide has been modified ( I bored out to 12mm on my mill) and is all back together. On to the next challenge!
Hi Dave, Thanks for watching and for your feedback. The ML7 is a nice lathe to work on. Mine needed a lot of work to bring it back. You must be pleased rebuilding yours from parts. Regards Steve
Nice job as usual having used a super 7 and ml7 now you have the long cross slide and you have updated the headstock your lathe is in the super 7 capability range great video thanks for sharing !
Thanks. Yes I'm very pleased with it. The Myford lathes are nice straight forward machines to maintain. Also great that there are so many spare parts available. Regards Steve
I bought my long cross slide from the Ebay Seller Myford-Stuff. It is in excellent condition. They are great people to deal with and have an extensive range of Myford parts and other lathe tools....at very reasonable prices.
Hi steve, finally got round to upgrading my ML7 with the long slide. Surprising improvement first bit of milling I discovered I couldn’t have done with the short slide.
Hi Steve. Great video. Good advice. Had you any trouble turning the handwheel when you first fit it? I have a new metric screw and new metric nut. After assembly it is difficult to turn the handwheel. The gib strip I got with it was bent so I made a new 1 from certified ground flat bar stock. I chamfered the edge of it. I assembled it without the screw and tightened the gib strip so it could still be slid with no slop of the cross-slide. I'm thinking there is no backlash wear in the new metric brass nut making it real tight
@@bobnoxious1983 Hi there Funny you should mention that. My dads ML7 was suffering a bit from looseness on the cross slide so I thought that I would get a new nut, however I found a new replacement still wrapped in paper from myford bought 40 odd years ago. Boy was it a tight fit, making it just too hard to turn the hand wheel. So I wrapped it back up and readjusted the indicator dial and handle locknut effect. It seems that most of the backlash was bad adjustment of these two. I have a feeling that the nuts are cast with a tighter tolerance than those supplied with new lathes so that a really badly worn screw fits nice, but a lightly worn screw will be tight. Buying the longer crossslide I purchased a new screw and nut. Both were a nice snug fit. The spare nut won’t fit the new screw it’s so tight. Steve
I checked a few things since. The bored out clearance hole on the crosslide is 10.2mm. There is very slight evidence of circular rubbing marks. I will linish this next with a slotted dowel in a drill with emery paper. I checked my gib strip. And chamferred a 60deg edge on the top edge also to rule out rubbing there. Today I was making Steve's compound slide drill drive attachment. The cross slide nut started loosening a little bit with all of the milling work back and forth. Now that I have made this tool I will use it for a while to wear in the crosslide nut even more.
Hey Steve, great content! I have a long cross slide but using a standard size screw. What are the use of this long travel ? I can already do all types of operations with the standard screw? Thank you very much, Benjamin
Hi Steve I can watch your video,s all day rather than anything else on tv . There's a little tip I would to share with you regarding the cross slide, how many time,s have you cleaned down your machine between job to find your cross slide tee slots full of swarf !!!! So this is what I did i got a bake bean tin and squeezed the top to form a pouring spout and put about 10 also hot glue gun sticks in it , then I shuttered up the end of the cross slide tee slots then I heated up the glue gun sticks with an heat gun and poured the liquid glue in to the slots so that each slot is over full so they can be cut flush with Stanley blade whilst in situate and when I slid them out I was amazed they look like a genuine myford item and robust. Steve if you like it and thinking of trying it it would nice for you to video it , Regards Ren
Hi Ren, That sound like a really great idea....Thanks for watching and sharing your idea. I hope to have a go at that at some point and may include it in a video....Thanks again....Regards Steve
Hi Steve, I have just bought a long cross slide that needs a little bit of work. Good project in my view. One thing and I was wondering if you could help at all, is the gib the same dimensions as the normal cross slide but just longer? I don't have a reference point. Cheers, Mike
When I did this on my ML-7 I didn't need to drill the hole at the rear. I think the later models must have included it. Unless of course I have just forgotten that I did it! Either is equally likely. Haha. Good tip with the moly grease.
Hi John, The seller I bought the slide from told me you can actually get away with just using the standard length feed-screw. When I had a look at it when it was apart, I reckon it is possible. I probably could have saved some money on this!
Hi Steve, mine included a new feed-screw and also a new nut. I think the extra length gives you a lot more travel. It's definitely a great improvement. On mine I put a spacer block so that my compound can get closer to center than normal and this allows me to mount a ball turning attachment where the compound normally goes. I have a video of it on my channel.
+steve allen It is hard to calculate usable travel but the great thing is you can leave a toolpost set at the back as well as having the compound on the crosslide It totally transforms the lathe especially for milling operations having so much travel.
Hi there Steve, I am going to be using the Stuart dividing head to machine decorative stuff on the cross slide but the standard slide limits movement to about 5 inches. What is the actual length of the casting so I can compare to my standard slide? Steve Ps love your videos. Especially the voiceovers
Hello sir, very interesting and informative video as always. Could you give me the outer dimensions (L × W × H) of the 2 slides (long and short) please. In advance, thank you and good luck. Friendly greetings. P. K.
Thanks Steve, at my next refurbishment I shall consider that . Thanks 🙏 for sharing
I had a similar problem with a good, but rather flimsy-built drill press.
Ended up cannibalising the same sort of jack, using the screw to make an adjustable table support , controlled by a 2" diameter knurled wheel.
This works remarkable well, and it doesn't even look out-of-place !
Paddy
Nicely done Steve. I particularly like your idea of propping the drill press table for heavy cutting or more precise work when the flex of the table could make a difference. Thank you for the video.
Hi Glenn, Thanks. Yes I'm very pleased with the scissor jack method. It makes the table rock solid. I was quite surprised at how much the table flexes under load. I only found out recently about the bottle jack method, but when I tried it, there is not enough feel control on the pump to get it right, without lifting the table and after leaving it set overnight it tends to drop a bit. The scissor jack is a much more positive feel.
I've always been jealous of how useful the myford cross slide setup appears to be compared to other similar sized lathes
+brockfuzzy69 Hi yes the set up is really exellent. Since having this lathe and taking it apart and putting it together again, I think the man who designed and made it was an absolute practical genius. Thanks for watching Regards Steve
Steve, thanks for the information. I've almost completed my ML7 build (bought as a pile of parts). I was looking into why the cross slide came to a stop early! So now the cross slide has been modified ( I bored out to 12mm on my mill) and is all back together. On to the next challenge!
Hi Dave, Thanks for watching and for your feedback. The ML7 is a nice lathe to work on. Mine needed a lot of work to bring it back. You must be pleased rebuilding yours from parts. Regards Steve
That is a really nice upgrade and I like the slots, they look to be very handy.
Nice job as usual having used a super 7 and ml7 now you have the long cross slide and you have updated the headstock your lathe is in the super 7 capability range great video thanks for sharing !
Thanks. Yes I'm very pleased with it. The Myford lathes are nice straight forward machines to maintain. Also great that there are so many spare parts available. Regards Steve
I bought my long cross slide from the Ebay Seller Myford-Stuff. It is in excellent condition. They are great people to deal with and have an extensive range of Myford parts and other lathe tools....at very reasonable prices.
Very nice upgrade, Steve. You will probably think its a new lathe. Good job.
Hi Skeeter, Thanks......Yes it does feel like a new lathe now! Regards Steve
Hi steve, finally got round to upgrading my ML7 with the long slide. Surprising improvement first bit of milling I discovered I couldn’t have done with the short slide.
Hi Steve. Great video. Good advice. Had you any trouble turning the handwheel when you first fit it? I have a new metric screw and new metric nut. After assembly it is difficult to turn the handwheel. The gib strip I got with it was bent so I made a new 1 from certified ground flat bar stock. I chamfered the edge of it. I assembled it without the screw and tightened the gib strip so it could still be slid with no slop of the cross-slide. I'm thinking there is no backlash wear in the new metric brass nut making it real tight
@@bobnoxious1983 Hi there
Funny you should mention that.
My dads ML7 was suffering a bit from looseness on the cross slide so I thought that I would get a new nut, however I found a new replacement still wrapped in paper from myford bought 40 odd years ago. Boy was it a tight fit, making it just too hard to turn the hand wheel. So I wrapped it back up and readjusted the indicator dial and handle locknut effect. It seems that most of the backlash was bad adjustment of these two. I have a feeling that the nuts are cast with a tighter tolerance than those supplied with new lathes so that a really badly worn screw fits nice, but a lightly worn screw will be tight. Buying the longer crossslide I purchased a new screw and nut. Both were a nice snug fit. The spare nut won’t fit the new screw it’s so tight.
Steve
I checked a few things since. The bored out clearance hole on the crosslide is 10.2mm. There is very slight evidence of circular rubbing marks. I will linish this next with a slotted dowel in a drill with emery paper. I checked my gib strip. And chamferred a 60deg edge on the top edge also to rule out rubbing there. Today I was making Steve's compound slide drill drive attachment. The cross slide nut started loosening a little bit with all of the milling work back and forth. Now that I have made this tool I will use it for a while to wear in the crosslide nut even more.
Hey Steve, great content! I have a long cross slide but using a standard size screw. What are the use of this long travel ? I can already do all types of operations with the standard screw?
Thank you very much,
Benjamin
Hi Steve I can watch your video,s all day rather than anything else on tv . There's a little tip I would to share with you regarding the cross slide, how many time,s have you cleaned down your machine between job to find your cross slide tee slots full of swarf !!!! So this is what I did i got a bake bean tin and squeezed the top to form a pouring spout and put about 10 also hot glue gun sticks in it , then I shuttered up the end of the cross slide tee slots then I heated up the glue gun sticks with an heat gun and poured the liquid glue in to the slots so that each slot is over full so they can be cut flush with Stanley blade whilst in situate and when I slid them out I was amazed they look like a genuine myford item and robust. Steve if you like it and thinking of trying it it would nice for you to video it , Regards Ren
Hi Ren, That sound like a really great idea....Thanks for watching and sharing your idea. I hope to have a go at that at some point and may include it in a video....Thanks again....Regards Steve
fantastic this is a job i need to do thanks steve
Thanks for scissor jack tip!
Hi Steve, I have just bought a long cross slide that needs a little bit of work. Good project in my view. One thing and I was wondering if you could help at all, is the gib the same dimensions as the normal cross slide but just longer? I don't have a reference point. Cheers, Mike
Hi Mike yes its the same....just longer.
Steve Jordan Thanks! I didn’t get the Gib Strip so was thinking of making one from brass.
When I did this on my ML-7 I didn't need to drill the hole at the rear. I think the later models must have included it. Unless of course I have just forgotten that I did it! Either is equally likely. Haha. Good tip with the moly grease.
Hi John, The seller I bought the slide from told me you can actually get away with just using the standard length feed-screw. When I had a look at it when it was apart, I reckon it is possible. I probably could have saved some money on this!
Hi Steve, mine included a new feed-screw and also a new nut. I think the extra length gives you a lot more travel. It's definitely a great improvement. On mine I put a spacer block so that my compound can get closer to center than normal and this allows me to mount a ball turning attachment where the compound normally goes. I have a video of it on my channel.
Hi John, I would like to see that. What is your channel called?
nice job....good addition
Hi Miguel, Thanks
hallo steve is het mogelijk om de hele cariage van een super ml7 over te zetten op een ml7
Is it possible to place a ball screw in a myford 7
hi, any tips or vids on shimming a ml7 saddle and apron ?
Hi there steve
What’s the total usable travel with the new long slide?
Am thinking of upgrading my ml7.
+steve allen It is hard to calculate usable travel but the great thing is you can leave a toolpost set at the back as well as having the compound on the crosslide It totally transforms the lathe especially for milling operations having so much travel.
Hi there
Steve,
I am going to be using the Stuart dividing head to machine decorative stuff on the cross slide but the standard slide limits movement to about 5 inches.
What is the actual length of the casting so I can compare to my standard slide?
Steve
Ps love your videos. Especially the voiceovers
it might be worth fitting another feed nut at the back to act as a backlash eliminator
Hello sir, very interesting and informative video as always. Could you give me the outer dimensions (L × W × H) of the 2 slides (long and short) please. In advance, thank you and good luck. Friendly greetings. P. K.
into mij poor english is it passeble to put the carriage off a super ml7 onto a ml7
HAVE YOU NOW RENAMED YOURSELF TO TITANIUM???