Suit Lingo & Terminology Explained II - Gentleman's Gazette
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- Опубликовано: 3 июл 2024
- For a more in-depth guide to all things suits, click here: gentl.mn/suit-lingo-II
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Shoulder terminology
Sleeve head
So why is a sleeve head so important? Basically, the way you fold fabrics whether you add padding or not really influences the shape and the look of the sleeve and how it rolls on the sleeve head. If you think about it, you have one layer of fabric that comes from the shoulder and one layer of fabric that comes from the sleeve. Now the ends of the fabric where it's sewn together can either be folded both towards the shoulder which is called spalla camicia or they can be both folded down which creates usually an effect slightly like a pagoda shoulder where it comes up or you can fold the sleeve end to the sleeve side at a shoulder one to the shoulder side which is more traditional and adventurous look.
Structured shoulder
It typically means that there is some form of padding, it's a little stiffer, and it helps the fabric to drape nicely. It's typically something you find in military tailoring where you want something to look authoritative and impressive.
Pagoda shoulder
Pagoda shoulder uses padding in a way to create a slightly concave effect where it goes down on your collar and then back up on the sleeve head.
Soft shoulder or a natural shoulder
They talk about a shoulder construction without padding that feels very comfortable and normal.
Mappina
If you see little puckering along the sleeve head, Italians sometimes call it mappina. For Italians, it's a hallmark of a handwork.
Jacket Pockets
Barchetta
This means little boat, it refers to the outside chest pocket on your jacket that is cut in a shape that resembles a small boat.
Patch Pockets
This refers to pockets that are literally patched on to the outside of the jacket.
Flap pockets
They are a slit that is cut and then a flap that is attached to it. The flap prevents things falling out of your pockets but it's also a stylistic choice.
Jetted Pocket
A jetted pocket is more formal than a flap pocket which is more formal than a patch pocket.
Ticket Pocket
This is placed above a pocket usually on the right side but if you have something custom-made you can also have it done on the left side.
Drape
In a very basic level, drape describes how fabric flows along your body because ultimately, it's woven two-dimensionally but your suit is 3-dimensional, however, if the term drape is mentioned in terms of suits, it usually refers to an excess amount of fabric over the chest or your back blades which create the visual appearance of broader chests.
Darts
It usually refers to seams in the front of your jacket. It can also be in the back of your jacket but what it typically does is to remove fabric to create a more desired silhouette.
Waist suppression
This is related to darts and it refers again to the hourglass shape.
Drop
What it refers to is the difference between a chest measurement and your waist measurement.
Quarters
This refers to the front pocket flaps of your jacket.
Skirt
It's basically the bottom half of your jacket all the way around. it contains the quarters in the front but also the back.
Vents
Basically, vents are the slits that you can find on the back part of the skirt.
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Хобби
This is what I love about classic men's style---it's full of what looks like innumerable little details, all of them aimed at providing you with the best fit/look possible. And so just when you think you have suits all figured out, along comes Raphael and says "nope!" lol
I think that Raphael Schneider saying the word: "Suit" is the best ASMR ever made.
That Double Breasted Waistcoat tho great video again Sven
Just quick correction, the term Barchetta (6:11) comes from the Italian vocabulary. For the rest, awesome video! Anyone should still learn this nowadays...Thank you,
Awesome video. One of the best ever!
Not only is your vids educational, but your voice and the way you speak is very soothing to listen to :) thank you for your videos!!!
Man I've learnd a lot from this channel ^^ you're amazing bro !!
Mind blown!
Great series!
I love that blue waistcoat!
Wonderful information, great video Sven!
I've been watching these videos for some time now. Always interesting and informative.
You know what. Your channel is actually really good
A fountain of information one of your best. This I have to save. Excellent.
Raphael, last week at my partners funeral I wore an orange button hole rose 2cm size - this was because of your influence. I really love your content as it sits with my lifestyle since I was a child. Best wishes from the UK
A very informative vid Raphael & I hope to be expanding my suit collection soon ✌😎🤘
I love your website, I just love it! keep it up. Outstanding :)
Fantastic! Thank you!
Thanks for giving me the words to create a monster.
grear great serie, many thanks !
super info Sven
Hey can you make a guide for dressing gowns, smoking jackets and everything else you can wear at home?
We already did, www.gentlemansgazette.com/smoking-jacket-guide/?II&
Thanks Sven! this vid will be useful throughout the ages! :-D :-D :-D
Magnifique Purée beauté totale Classe D'elegance HD. La Perfection Grâce infinie. Joliment Merci l'artiste Excellente Semaine.
Please make videos about belts and leather jacket.
Please could you make a video on shirts, to buy, wear and maintain.
Please include these for people living in hotter climates.
Could you make a video on the different suits worn by Patrick Jane of The Mentalist. His style in the series is simply amazing
Learned something new 🤔
Thank you for your expertise. I have a question about straight suit pockets or slanted. I work for a bank and I like the look of the slanted pockets, but I think the presidential pocket square looks better with a straight pocket.
Would like explanation of different suit customs in different regions for travel. Such as Latin America, China, ect.
Go to a Chiropractor about the crooked body and sloping shoulder.
A Chiropractor straightened my shoulders out and my shoulders were more uneven than yours.
Greetings sir, I am Shubham from INDIA and I am a huge fan of your work.
Now sir I have a question that I am about to got a job in London UK. and those who are about to take my interview are all gentlemen so this is a humble request that please make a video for me in which you show some behavior tutorial so that how to behave in front of extremely experienced gentlemen. i think you get my point thank you sir
This is too late, but my advice would be to think up some questions you might be asked and rehearse some answers. In your interview don't answer a question straight away, but pause for a few seconds before answering. M.
Time to start working so I can afford proper suits by the time I need them
Not 100% right, but stimulating and thought provoking.
My personal look comes mainly from Charity shops in the Jewish area's.
They know their trade and the quality is the best worldwide
Not off the peg and not bespoke. Try it on and if it looks right, and feels right. I buy it for a steal.
I stand out a bit but always get compliments.
Ha! First... Let me think of something clever... Great video!
Could you do a video on how to dress as a salesman?
I have 55cm shoulders at 170cm, should I stay away from padded shoulders?
finally you know the problem 🌝
Does Raphael have a slight case of scoliosis?
do you have a video or part of a video that talks about the length of the skirt?
Bob the Hat King how a suit should fit video
So what do you call the belt like thing, and the opening in the back?
The belt like thing is a half belt, the opening behind is a center box pleat shooting pleat
👏
13:46
You should invent asymmetrical hangers. I think most people, men and women, are asymmetrical.
Hello Raphael! Are you still hiring?
Today I leaned my flap pockets can be pushed in
Please help me, 13:59 what type of jacket is this? I really like the style of the back of this jacket
Edit : would you mind to email me the details of this jacket? Especially on the back of it?
I think it's just called a casual suit, it's a good place to start if not
I think you know by now because it has been 2 years, but here.
Those are half belts, and box pleats.
@@keshavrao212 thanks
You need bespoke hangers!
Barchetta is Italian
When the waist is larger than the chest, is the "drop" a negative number? LOL
The most important thing for mens fashion nowadays is to find socially acceptable hat,both for winter and summer.
Why do all your suits look quite 'baggy'?
"Barchetta" is Italian, not Spanish
Personally I really love suits, but is it appropriate for women to wear them as well?
Of course wear whatever makes you happy
Fachwerkhaus Thank you :)
You'll have to watch Sartorial Talks and be on the look-out for the female co-host. She does it the best in terms of modern day dandy dress for women.
SVEN IS A THICCBOY.
*T H I C C*