Ohhhh. So if my booster fails the first test, but not the second, it just specifies whether its internal or external? Looks like mine is internal, mine only really fails the first test. My LTFTs are 20% both banks and pressing and holding the brakes sends the short terms high as 20% and I can drag the long term to 25%
Right, if you apply the brake and switch the vehicle off the brakes should hold where they are, if they push back that means it has an internal leak like a bad diaphragm and it’s losing vacuum. If it has an external leak like a rusted housing it would never build boost at all. This could affect fuel trims since it’s taking in air the the pcm may not be seeing or may not be able to adjust for making the mixture lean
@@jcauto525 Well I was just sitting in the car right now and I pinched the brake booster line with visegrips. The short terms can still jump up to 20% with the line pinched. Not sure if my vise grips suck at pinching. This is so frustrating.
@@The2Coolest2 I read that on some makes and models 20 +\- swing could be normal on STFT but that’s probably driving around not sitting idling, both should be lower what kind of codes is it setting? It should be throwing some, what are you working on?
@@jcauto525 No codes thrown, but the car is just very lean and my MPG is terrible. The last thing I haven't checked is the brake booster and fuel pressure. I replaced the MAF cause it was underreporting with a junkyard maf, it's reporting the same. I then read it can underrepot with a vacuum leak.
@@The2Coolest2 if it feels lean like down on power I would check fuel pressure, filter, injectors may be stopped up, or vacuum leak somewhere else. If it doesn’t feel down on power think of things that would make the o2 think it’s lean when it’s not like exhaust leak, bad o2, harness resistance high or low from damage to o2 harness. It’s weird that no codes are being thrown
So much easier in the older chevys with so much engine space. I currently had one replaced on my Malibu. Check out the video when you have time. Keep the videos coming
I just bought a 2000 GMC Yukon from someone that drove it with a blown booster for a long time. And mine was so bad you could hear the brake pedal hissing. And honestly I literally got it hooked back up like three hours ago and my truck runs better too.😂 but you explained it very well. Thank you for taking the time.
Thank you too, and that’s great! I think mine was messed up for a long time too and it just got worse before I made the video because the truck never had a good pedal feel like it does now
Mine...1993 K2500 pickup, extended cab, full 8' bed. Rust inside the wheel wells tells me if I was into a fender bender the front clip would pop in the pieces like a pop balloon I think... Wisconsin here, lol !
Thanks for video but I hate when people do these and get to removing clips and skip past the removal… then say, I’ve already removed the clips……. UH THATS SOME OF THE MOST IMPORTANT INFO THAT PEOPLE WANT TO SEE LOL🤷♂️
@showroomlevel no, my year doesn't have the abs pump like the later models. I never really looked into it because It's been doing it since I was a kid lol just something powering down in the dash
I have crank but no start. Starts with gas pedal all the way down. Can rev the engine but it does when gas let off..... Got to vice grip egr tube, pcv tube and of "course" with this video, the brake booster tube. Any feed back thanks.. Didn't they sell you a paint marker for that "HR".?
I would start with checking codes first it may point you directly to it. You can make the check engine light blink codes with a paper clip, if you don’t know how I can make a quick video on it. If it’ll start and rev just not idle then it sounds like the idle air control but it’s hard to tell over the phone lol
My tata 207 brake is not still working after changing Master cylinder, wheel cylinder, brake shoes in all. It goes down to floor..! Please hlep me fix it🙏 can it be Servo/ booster problem? ( booster is not change yet)
Make sure the brake system is bled, usually if a booster goes out it will have a hard pedal and brakes will still function, just not as good as they normally do. Make sure the pedal is actually connected to the brake booster rod under the dash also
There should be a rod in the booster that engages the master cylinder, make sure it is seated and adjust right. I've had that issue before, I wasn't paying attention when installing and had the same problem
@@dymondboyer5473 the clips are a little different between makes but they all work about the same, the brake booster rod slides over the tit on the pedal, the clip has a larger hole that you start on that tit, then you slide it into place towards the smaller side. It should have some type of tangs to keep tension against it so where the two pieces join doesn't flop around
@@jcauto525 after trying and trying, I seen that the bar was too short to come all the way through. I want back and ordered a different booster! The end of the rod was too thick. That's why the clip wasn't working. Thank you do much!!!!
Yah you making it look to easy for most , but I got this bracket goes from knee. Board to brake booster it’s right in the way and you have to go around it with a deep well socket man I was ready to scream. lol don’t make it look to easy tell them like it is ,, don’t want making one
Ohhhh. So if my booster fails the first test, but not the second, it just specifies whether its internal or external? Looks like mine is internal, mine only really fails the first test. My LTFTs are 20% both banks and pressing and holding the brakes sends the short terms high as 20% and I can drag the long term to 25%
Right, if you apply the brake and switch the vehicle off the brakes should hold where they are, if they push back that means it has an internal leak like a bad diaphragm and it’s losing vacuum. If it has an external leak like a rusted housing it would never build boost at all. This could affect fuel trims since it’s taking in air the the pcm may not be seeing or may not be able to adjust for making the mixture lean
@@jcauto525 Well I was just sitting in the car right now and I pinched the brake booster line with visegrips. The short terms can still jump up to 20% with the line pinched. Not sure if my vise grips suck at pinching. This is so frustrating.
@@The2Coolest2 I read that on some makes and models 20 +\- swing could be normal on STFT but that’s probably driving around not sitting idling, both should be lower what kind of codes is it setting? It should be throwing some, what are you working on?
@@jcauto525 No codes thrown, but the car is just very lean and my MPG is terrible. The last thing I haven't checked is the brake booster and fuel pressure. I replaced the MAF cause it was underreporting with a junkyard maf, it's reporting the same. I then read it can underrepot with a vacuum leak.
@@The2Coolest2 if it feels lean like down on power I would check fuel pressure, filter, injectors may be stopped up, or vacuum leak somewhere else. If it doesn’t feel down on power think of things that would make the o2 think it’s lean when it’s not like exhaust leak, bad o2, harness resistance high or low from damage to o2 harness. It’s weird that no codes are being thrown
short and sweet to the point thanks for the video!
No problem bud
Spend 15 minutes and drop the steering column and you’ll plenty of room to access the nuts and retainer clip. Makes like so much easier
So much easier in the older chevys with so much engine space. I currently had one replaced on my Malibu. Check out the video when you have time.
Keep the videos coming
Yeah I love my old schools. And for sure!
No thanks I was just standing on my head from mine
I just bought a 2000 GMC Yukon from someone that drove it with a blown booster for a long time. And mine was so bad you could hear the brake pedal hissing. And honestly I literally got it hooked back up like three hours ago and my truck runs better too.😂 but you explained it very well. Thank you for taking the time.
Thank you too, and that’s great! I think mine was messed up for a long time too and it just got worse before I made the video because the truck never had a good pedal feel like it does now
Mine...1993 K2500 pickup, extended cab, full 8' bed. Rust inside the wheel wells tells me if I was into a fender bender the front clip would pop in the pieces like a pop balloon I think... Wisconsin here, lol !
Mine just went out on my’92 Silverado thanks for da video
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for video but I hate when people do these and get to removing clips and skip past the removal… then say, I’ve already removed the clips……. UH THATS SOME OF THE MOST IMPORTANT INFO THAT PEOPLE WANT TO SEE LOL🤷♂️
Mine passed both leak tests, no leaks but very rough and bad idle
Is that ur ABS pump staying on while the truck is off? I got a g20 van doing the same thing wondering if you fixed it on this
@showroomlevel no, my year doesn't have the abs pump like the later models. I never really looked into it because It's been doing it since I was a kid lol just something powering down in the dash
I have crank but no start. Starts with gas pedal all the way down. Can rev the engine but it does when gas let off..... Got to vice grip egr tube, pcv tube and of "course" with this video, the brake booster tube. Any feed back thanks..
Didn't they sell you a paint marker for that "HR".?
I would start with checking codes first it may point you directly to it. You can make the check engine light blink codes with a paper clip, if you don’t know how I can make a quick video on it. If it’ll start and rev just not idle then it sounds like the idle air control but it’s hard to tell over the phone lol
My tata 207 brake is not still working after changing Master cylinder, wheel cylinder, brake shoes in all. It goes down to floor..! Please hlep me fix it🙏 can it be Servo/ booster problem? ( booster is not change yet)
Make sure the brake system is bled, usually if a booster goes out it will have a hard pedal and brakes will still function, just not as good as they normally do. Make sure the pedal is actually connected to the brake booster rod under the dash also
I can’t reach the top 2nuts on my Volvo 1996 960 Brake booster what can I do
I don't have any experience with that vehicle, but ratcheting wrenches or swivel adapters are your friends for hard to reach nuts.
Your truck sounds good lol, mine sounds like she gonna blow😂
Hopefully not 😂
I just replaced my booster... New im trying to figure out where I want wrong.. The peddle is to the floor... 2002 escalade
There should be a rod in the booster that engages the master cylinder, make sure it is seated and adjust right. I've had that issue before, I wasn't paying attention when installing and had the same problem
@@jcauto525 one more Qu... Im under the pedal now trying to put the clamp back on... Is there a special way
@@dymondboyer5473 the clips are a little different between makes but they all work about the same, the brake booster rod slides over the tit on the pedal, the clip has a larger hole that you start on that tit, then you slide it into place towards the smaller side. It should have some type of tangs to keep tension against it so where the two pieces join doesn't flop around
@@jcauto525 after trying and trying, I seen that the bar was too short to come all the way through. I want back and ordered a different booster! The end of the rod was too thick. That's why the clip wasn't working. Thank you do much!!!!
Should i replace both booster an master
Hey, im back... I can't get the pin on.. Is there a special way
...
You talking about the clip where the pedal and brake booster rod attach right?
@@jcauto525 yes
@@dymondboyer5473 it should slide on no problem, maybe look up a picture for reference.
@@jcauto525 ok... Ill try again tomorrow.. Thank u so much!!!💜
@@dymondboyer5473 from what I looked up it should be exactly the same as mine, I can make a video for you tomorrow after work showing how it goes
Yah you making it look to easy for most , but I got this bracket goes from knee. Board to brake booster it’s right in the way and you have to go around it with a deep well socket man I was ready to scream. lol don’t make it look to easy tell them like it is ,, don’t want making one
Oh yeah some cars are terrible, I remember the top two being a little aggravating but nothing too crazy.
Yeah right there's absolutely no room to get the top right bolt out from underneath the dash it's not as easy as you say.
I used ratcheting wrench and sockets with a swivel on everything. It wasn’t all that hard for me
@@jcauto525 I thought about a swivel extension but I don't have one. Took me 4 friggin hrs to get the top bolt off lol
@@MattgIH oh man that sucks lol, sorry you had a hard time
Dude….. then you skipped the entire install lol🤦♂️
Bulshit😅😅😅😅😅😅