Can you please make a video showing ALL of the steps to refine the settings to FULLY tune the printer with the Sonic Pad? Because it's klipper there's a lot more adjustments you can make than normal Marlin, and the order of adjusting settings is probably important too. Particularly all the velocity and acceleration settings, pressure advance, input shaping, etc. I have no idea how to properly hone those to ideal settings, rather than just adjusting them up and down guessing at values.
Excellent explanation of the sonic pad. I just bought one but haven’t set it up yet. Your video has answered a lot of questions I had. Thanks for posting it. Btw, I just subscribed 😊.
Cool. I bought it yesterday for my ender3v2, that I'm transforming in a super ender3 , with CR touch, Double z, direct drive, extra fans, lights, Y rail, new springs, and an acrylic/mdf enclosure 😊
Thanks for a super introduction to the Sonic Pad. Could you please explain how to change the USB port you use to connect the Sonic Pad to the printer. It only excepts using USB port nr. 1 and i would like to use USB port nr. 3 but this needs a change of the printer.cfg. I have no idea on how to do this.
HI. Could you make a video for the installation, calibrations and configurations of the Pad for delta printers, especially the Flsun Q5. I can't find any videos or tutorials about it. I trust in your competence and availability. Thanks
This convinced me to get one, my Sermoon D1 is barely supported 😅I had figure steps out on my own and redo a lot of the g-code in the printer.cfg file (easy to do via the web interface) and if you installed a CR-touch (BL-touch or clone, like i did) you WILL have to go in and make edits. On the plus side its commented to enable the code (and disable some). I've had to change a LOT of settings, seems like multiple people where working on the code and everyone was copy pasting OR had there own idea of what was right to do until it "worked". Probe offset is WAY off, ben programing isn't centered and will crash into the glass hold downs, normal start and stop g-code in your slicer conflict with machine limits, etc. I had ALL the fun. On the plus side, using the Sonic Pad made that work FAR easier than normal. Infact!! i was kind of amazed how easy it was as it also gives you error reports and doesn't just crash into things!! It first mad me mad, but honestly now i'm like a kid in a playground. Despite the bugs etc, I'm finally a Creality fan.. there's (just) some people doing good things over there. I messed with g-code and even some slicer programing back around 2014 to fix flaws and it wasn't fun a lot of the time, as i'm not normally messing with code all the time. I would run the machine "dry" without heating the bed or extruder to test out the settings you find.
might be a bit redundant, but is it possible to use this tablet to have it set up remotely, stop remotely and make time lapses with a webcam, but not use klipper, or is setting up klipper a necessity with the sonic pad?
I got Creality Ender-3 S1 3D Printer, and I would like to get the Creality Sonic Pad Control Screen. Will that allow me to contact my printer via WiFi from my computer (PC/Mac)?
I created a design, gave sonic pad to print it, it refused stating some difficulty. Then I did a firmware upgrade on my printer directly. Bypassed the sonic pad and printed directly. The printer printed. This was not the only thing where sonic pad failed. Every now and then sonic pad loses connection with printer and throws some error code. I had to restart the printer. When I give an idea to print, it waits very long. It first heats the bed, which nozzle stays cold. Then it heats nozzle and makes me wait. This is not the problem with printing directly. By default it heats nozzle first then the bed, but in the printing menu I can intervene and give it the bed temperature also to heat simultaneously. There are more ways to save time I figured out in printer, but sonic pad is too rigid. It does not let me do any smart things. Options are not there.
the ADD PRINTER option, wish you had played with that when your were looking on the laptop, as i want to know if tou can add a laser printer ? as I have with creality print, and i dea if you can add laser to the sonic ?
I have an extra Raspberry Pi4 2GB...but I went ahead and just ordered this. I'm pretty good with computers and up to date on tech but feel this all in one package for 170 on amazon really was a time saver and headache saver over all. If it cost any more I think Id be sitting down with my Pi4 and setting it up lol. But at this price I think it's pretty fair deal, especially with the screen included which I would have most likely ordered
Hi i noticed when you pugged the usb into the pad you used the bottom port but later you were using the middle usb port was there any reason you changed please
We are having issue with firmware updating etc for the ender 3 v3 se printer . s there anyway of getting direct help on this , we are stuck on a red screen error . Im in Calif
Hello huge fan of your videos. Just wondering, I got all the part to upgrade my CR10 Smart to the Smart pro. I'm lost on if it will work this way or where to start. Will I need to upgrade the motherboard or firmware? Also we could do a video on the new duel live mode? You showing how and me doing the upgrades?
Definitely a great machine. Halved the print times on my Ender 3 S1 Pro. my only complaint is that I can't seem to get the autoleveling mesh to operate properly. It gets measured, but either it's giving bad values or it's simply not implementing (I do have M420 S1 Z10 in my Start G-code). Anybody have a fix for this?
Trying to flash the firmware and says USB stick not detected and the operation cannot be performed. Does anyone have any advice to get this going? Btw I have a ender 5 s1
@@alaxgallagher9073 I got it working and very happy with the 5s1 now. It was a bit of a hassle but I am new to printing so that probably had something to do with it
Yes, it reflashes your machine to only work with the Sonic Pad. I have a old Makerbot Replicator from 10 years ago, if you run it off an SD card that little ol 8-bit board only ran at about 85mm/s with reduced geometry and 65mm/s with modern slicer geometry 😅but if i use the old slicer software that controls it via USB on my computer i can run that old machine up to 180mm/s without a problem (no part cooling is what limited it) and even ran it at 250mm/s 1000 acceleration for larger prints with longer layer changes to allow it to cool. FYI, the auto recovery beats up your SD card. It will hammer just one little section by rewriting it every layer change or every so often that it will cause premature wear. You can change the start g-code to disable it in your slicer though. ( M413 S0 ; disable power loss recovery ) and if your printer has a 250w PSU than most small battery backups will work to keep it going for about 15 minutes
I followed your video to a T, and everything worked great. But when I tried to put the IP address of the Sonic Pad on my computer, it didn't recognize it, and I can not figure out how to make it work. I don't really want to start over again, but I may have to. Any suggestions?
I just set this up (well, I'm TRYING to) on an ender 5s1. When it got to bed leveling, the very first probe it trade was off the bed completely. This caused an error. I don't understand why it would move the sensor off the bed. The printer was selected correctly in the early part of the setup
Just set my new Ender 5 S1 up today and then started following the instructions on the Sonic Pad. Same exact problem happened to me during the first probe test at the front left corner. The nozzle was positioned too far left to the point that the touch probe (which is offset slightly left of the nozzle) was off the build surface and the machine continued to lower the nozzle straight down into the build surface because the probe couldn't be triggered. I'm thinking there's gotta be some erroneous soft limit or bed measurement settings in the config file for the Ender 5 S1 on the Sonic Pad. No idea how to fix this. Let the research begin.
@@johnson6048 I figured it out. I'm assuming you have the later model with injection molded fan duct and no Z switch? Go back and set you printer to the 5s1, but pick the one that says no Z switch. You should be good then
@@michaelcouey1383 You're correct sir! The problem was that upon first use of the Sonic Pad, the option for a second Ender 5 S1 (without Z Probe) was not available to select. Even though I'd successfully added my local wifi network, it needed to update. When I read your message this morning and went to try the whole process again, immediately after powering on the Sonic Pad, I was prompted to perform an update. That update then allowed me to select the othe Ender 5 S1 with the yellow flag (for no Z Probe). Everything worked fine from there. Now printing my first test cube. Thank you!!
I bought one at the store.. print quality is amazing after tuning however the USB connection is incredibly unreliable on the enderv2 . Drops connection on almost every print. Different cords, power supplies.. ups's ferrites.. no dice. Switched back to marlin, printing over the same usb just fine. Wanted to love it but reliabiloty is awful.
unfortunately the sonic pad is locked down so update manager is not an option and we are at the mercy of creality updating moonraker, klipper, fluid and mainsail
Thank you for this amazing instructional video. Whenever I run the self test it completes step 5/5 after creating the bed mesh, However, after that I cannot select "Next" to complete the self test. This means, whenever I reboot the sonic pad I have to go through the entire setup process. Is there anything you can suggest? It is running the latest sonic pad firmware & has been factory reset twice
Sonic pad sucks, only got 1 half ass print. Constantly stops at 2 percent and a dozen times afterwards, webhook shuts down printer, you can't find no resolves online to fix it
I just wish they would fix the bed leveling issues it has with some printers, like the cr-10 smart. It absolutely ignores and autoleveling you do and will dig the nozzle into your built plate. I thought it was just me, but there are plenty of posts about these leveling issues, without any solutions in sight. I kind of regret buying this thing. It clearly doesn't support all of the printers it claims to. While printing for over 4 years, I've never experienced leveling nightmares like this before.
Dude, you don't need to explain what a usb-c is to people who are trying to set up Klipper on their 3d printers. Not showing how to use the motion sensor that came with the Sonic Pad is the real deal breaker though. The sparse amount of content that you offered would've been perfect for a 10-minute video.
![Diggy Graves - Red Vineyard [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8Ro085T0mnQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![Gucci Mane & Sexyy Red - You Don't Love Me [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j7IBqyFKT4c/mqdefault.jpg)
Can you please make a video showing ALL of the steps to refine the settings to FULLY tune the printer with the Sonic Pad? Because it's klipper there's a lot more adjustments you can make than normal Marlin, and the order of adjusting settings is probably important too. Particularly all the velocity and acceleration settings, pressure advance, input shaping, etc. I have no idea how to properly hone those to ideal settings, rather than just adjusting them up and down guessing at values.
I would also love this and if you could let us know when you post setting video that would be amazing
Excellent explanation of the sonic pad. I just bought one but haven’t set it up yet. Your video has answered a lot of questions I had. Thanks for posting it. Btw, I just subscribed 😊.
A thoroughly brilliant display and review of the Sonic pad, well done. I don't understand the comments about the sound at all, worked fine for me.
This convinced me to get one 😁 glad i did
its an awesome piece of hardware. been using it for a month now. transformed the ender 3 max to a whole different machine
Cool. I bought it yesterday for my ender3v2, that I'm transforming in a super ender3 , with CR touch, Double z, direct drive, extra fans, lights, Y rail, new springs, and an acrylic/mdf enclosure 😊
What if there is a power fail?
Does Sonic Pad remembers the last state of the printer?
Thanks for a super introduction to the Sonic Pad.
Could you please explain how to change the USB port you use to connect the Sonic Pad to the printer. It only excepts using USB port nr. 1 and i would like to use USB port nr. 3 but this needs a change of the printer.cfg. I have no idea on how to do this.
HI. Could you make a video for the installation, calibrations and configurations of the Pad for delta printers, especially the Flsun Q5. I can't find any videos or tutorials about it. I trust in your competence and availability. Thanks
This convinced me to get one, my Sermoon D1 is barely supported 😅I had figure steps out on my own and redo a lot of the g-code in the printer.cfg file (easy to do via the web interface) and if you installed a CR-touch (BL-touch or clone, like i did) you WILL have to go in and make edits. On the plus side its commented to enable the code (and disable some).
I've had to change a LOT of settings, seems like multiple people where working on the code and everyone was copy pasting OR had there own idea of what was right to do until it "worked". Probe offset is WAY off, ben programing isn't centered and will crash into the glass hold downs, normal start and stop g-code in your slicer conflict with machine limits, etc. I had ALL the fun. On the plus side, using the Sonic Pad made that work FAR easier than normal. Infact!! i was kind of amazed how easy it was as it also gives you error reports and doesn't just crash into things!! It first mad me mad, but honestly now i'm like a kid in a playground. Despite the bugs etc, I'm finally a Creality fan.. there's (just) some people doing good things over there. I messed with g-code and even some slicer programing back around 2014 to fix flaws and it wasn't fun a lot of the time, as i'm not normally messing with code all the time.
I would run the machine "dry" without heating the bed or extruder to test out the settings you find.
I have Sermoon D1 also and can’t figure out how to change anything with printer.cfg. Don’t know how to use web interface You sayin on my PC.
might be a bit redundant, but is it possible to use this tablet to have it set up remotely, stop remotely and make time lapses with a webcam, but not use klipper, or is setting up klipper a necessity with the sonic pad?
I got Creality Ender-3 S1 3D Printer, and I would like to get the Creality Sonic Pad Control Screen. Will that allow me to contact my printer via WiFi from my computer (PC/Mac)?
I created a design, gave sonic pad to print it, it refused stating some difficulty. Then I did a firmware upgrade on my printer directly. Bypassed the sonic pad and printed directly. The printer printed.
This was not the only thing where sonic pad failed. Every now and then sonic pad loses connection with printer and throws some error code. I had to restart the printer.
When I give an idea to print, it waits very long. It first heats the bed, which nozzle stays cold. Then it heats nozzle and makes me wait. This is not the problem with printing
directly. By default it heats nozzle first then the bed, but in the printing menu I can intervene and give it the bed temperature also to heat simultaneously. There are more ways to save time I figured out in printer, but sonic pad is too rigid. It does not let me do any smart things. Options are not there.
Nice device though I am not sure about using it on multiple printers if you can only attach a single web cam.
the ADD PRINTER option, wish you had played with that when your were looking on the laptop, as i want to know if tou can add a laser printer ? as I have with creality print, and i dea if you can add laser to the sonic ?
I have an extra Raspberry Pi4 2GB...but I went ahead and just ordered this. I'm pretty good with computers and up to date on tech but feel this all in one package for 170 on amazon really was a time saver and headache saver over all. If it cost any more I think Id be sitting down with my Pi4 and setting it up lol. But at this price I think it's pretty fair deal, especially with the screen included which I would have most likely ordered
Hi i noticed when you pugged the usb into the pad you used the bottom port but later you were using the middle usb port was there any reason you changed please
We are having issue with firmware updating etc for the ender 3 v3 se printer . s there anyway of getting direct help on this , we are stuck on a red screen error . Im in Calif
im tempted to buy this for my cr-10s but they list every other one on the website😞
So will the sonic pad give me silent motors or do I still need to buy the silent board?
Hello huge fan of your videos. Just wondering, I got all the part to upgrade my CR10 Smart to the Smart pro. I'm lost on if it will work this way or where to start. Will I need to upgrade the motherboard or firmware? Also we could do a video on the new duel live mode? You showing how and me doing the upgrades?
So, I can send a print job to the printer directly from my desktop?
Definitely a great machine. Halved the print times on my Ender 3 S1 Pro. my only complaint is that I can't seem to get the autoleveling mesh to operate properly. It gets measured, but either it's giving bad values or it's simply not implementing (I do have M420 S1 Z10 in my Start G-code). Anybody have a fix for this?
Where to start for refining??? Would really appreciate another video for “tuning“ my Ender-3 S1.
Trying to flash the firmware and says USB stick not detected and the operation cannot be performed. Does anyone have any advice to get this going? Btw I have a ender 5 s1
ya i have the same thing. just return it. i am
@@alaxgallagher9073 I got it working and very happy with the 5s1 now. It was a bit of a hassle but I am new to printing so that probably had something to do with it
@@alaxgallagher9073 make sure your SD card is formatted to FAT32
@@alaxgallagher9073 right-click on the memory card and then press format. Then do a quick format to FAT32 and then you'll be good to go
Does the speed of the processor take care of the blobs introduced by the writing to the auto recovery buffer?
Yes, it reflashes your machine to only work with the Sonic Pad. I have a old Makerbot Replicator from 10 years ago, if you run it off an SD card that little ol 8-bit board only ran at about 85mm/s with reduced geometry and 65mm/s with modern slicer geometry 😅but if i use the old slicer software that controls it via USB on my computer i can run that old machine up to 180mm/s without a problem (no part cooling is what limited it) and even ran it at 250mm/s 1000 acceleration for larger prints with longer layer changes to allow it to cool.
FYI, the auto recovery beats up your SD card. It will hammer just one little section by rewriting it every layer change or every so often that it will cause premature wear. You can change the start g-code to disable it in your slicer though. ( M413 S0 ; disable power loss recovery ) and if your printer has a 250w PSU than most small battery backups will work to keep it going for about 15 minutes
Is it possible to connect it to the ender 3 V2 powersupply and controle it like as in octoprint psu controle?
I followed your video to a T, and everything worked great. But when I tried to put the IP address of the Sonic Pad on my computer, it didn't recognize it, and I can not figure out how to make it work. I don't really want to start over again, but I may have to. Any suggestions?
Where can I get this pad for my 3d Neo printer on Amazon?
I am getting a connection error. And it will not connect. I even formatted the sd card adn reflashed it and still nothing. PLEASE HELP
Can the e-steps be set using the Klipper software?
So what about the sensor??
I just set this up (well, I'm TRYING to) on an ender 5s1. When it got to bed leveling, the very first probe it trade was off the bed completely. This caused an error. I don't understand why it would move the sensor off the bed. The printer was selected correctly in the early part of the setup
Just set my new Ender 5 S1 up today and then started following the instructions on the Sonic Pad. Same exact problem happened to me during the first probe test at the front left corner. The nozzle was positioned too far left to the point that the touch probe (which is offset slightly left of the nozzle) was off the build surface and the machine continued to lower the nozzle straight down into the build surface because the probe couldn't be triggered. I'm thinking there's gotta be some erroneous soft limit or bed measurement settings in the config file for the Ender 5 S1 on the Sonic Pad. No idea how to fix this. Let the research begin.
@@johnson6048 I figured it out. I'm assuming you have the later model with injection molded fan duct and no Z switch? Go back and set you printer to the 5s1, but pick the one that says no Z switch. You should be good then
@@michaelcouey1383 You're correct sir! The problem was that upon first use of the Sonic Pad, the option for a second Ender 5 S1 (without Z Probe) was not available to select. Even though I'd successfully added my local wifi network, it needed to update. When I read your message this morning and went to try the whole process again, immediately after powering on the Sonic Pad, I was prompted to perform an update. That update then allowed me to select the othe Ender 5 S1 with the yellow flag (for no Z Probe). Everything worked fine from there. Now printing my first test cube. Thank you!!
You have any thoughts or experience with treadmill bed mods?
Does it HAVE to be Klipper? Cause I'm new to this and all this RasberryPi and firmware and software is brain overloading LOL
It's very simple to install. Creality makes it foolproof.
Yeah this product is for those who don't want to go through the process of doing a DIY klipper setup
This is a good video. Thank you.
There is no one out here doing the upgrades videos and or doing the new live feature from RUclips?
I bought one at the store.. print quality is amazing after tuning however the USB connection is incredibly unreliable on the enderv2 . Drops connection on almost every print. Different cords, power supplies.. ups's ferrites.. no dice. Switched back to marlin, printing over the same usb just fine. Wanted to love it but reliabiloty is awful.
Yup i got the same problem here with my v2 neo :(
Can you easily shut off the auto recovery (M413 S0 code) in the user interface?
You never installed the gyro or spoke about the input shaper
can i use the sonic pad with an ender 3 pro?
I get to step 4 and it says printer not ready Klu ply host is trying to connect
unfortunately the sonic pad is locked down so update manager is not an option and we are at the mercy of creality updating moonraker, klipper, fluid and mainsail
nice work, thanks
Is there a way to make it so you can keep the bed hot when you run out of filament?
Why would you want to do that?
Do you know if it could be work on Cr10 V2?
Is this compatible with the ender 3 v3 se ?
So what resonance sensor install?
"Cannot connect to printer" every time I try to format
Thank you for this amazing instructional video. Whenever I run the self test it completes step 5/5 after creating the bed mesh, However, after that I cannot select "Next" to complete the self test. This means, whenever I reboot the sonic pad I have to go through the entire setup process. Is there anything you can suggest? It is running the latest sonic pad firmware & has been factory reset twice
Got mine and it won't power on!
Not moonraker but fluidd
Please fix the audio with the music levels. Thanks.
It's been fixed in future videos
Sonic pad sucks, only got 1 half ass print. Constantly stops at 2 percent and a dozen times afterwards, webhook shuts down printer, you can't find no resolves online to fix it
is it just me or your camera has major aberrations? ..trippy
I just wish they would fix the bed leveling issues it has with some printers, like the cr-10 smart. It absolutely ignores and autoleveling you do and will dig the nozzle into your built plate. I thought it was just me, but there are plenty of posts about these leveling issues, without any solutions in sight. I kind of regret buying this thing. It clearly doesn't support all of the printers it claims to. While printing for over 4 years, I've never experienced leveling nightmares like this before.
SO ITS OCTOPI....
Dude, you don't need to explain what a usb-c is to people who are trying to set up Klipper on their 3d printers. Not showing how to use the motion sensor that came with the Sonic Pad is the real deal breaker though. The sparse amount of content that you offered would've been perfect for a 10-minute video.
I cant set up mine hellllllppppppp