Hi John Nice project you got there. Isn’t it crazy with boats how much renewal they need from time to time. I watched your initial tour and the boat looked ready to splash and be lived on but when you dig in it looks different. Luckily it’s mostly the systems though that are outdated and the hull and interior are looking great. Luckily you don’t have a visa limitation giving you a timecrunch but I would still consider carefully what to prioritize. Galley: we have not used our system yet but the folks over at technautics have been the best to work with and I’m stoked about the specs on their holding plate/ compressor units. Also look into aerogel for insulating without loosing volume. And before cutting into your hull to deck joint I would remove ceiling and inspect from the interior side. I would assume that is has been glassed from the inside too. Big gaps were often filled with plain polyester resin which is brittle and prone to crack. Not a big issue though. If there is glass on the underside you could just fill the gap again. Hard to assess and comment on just from the video. Best of luck, Aladino
Hi Aladino! Thank you for taking some time away from your own AMAZING project to lend your expertise here!! I think that apart from the decks and hull to deck joint, the structure of the boat is pretty sound. We will see! As you already know, you tend to learn more about your situation as you dig into the project further and yes, it seems that they can always use more work. I think your advice to prioritize is sound as one thing can easily lead to the next like pulling a thread on the sweater… I am not familiar with the Aerogel, so I will look into that. It would be great to get a higher R value without losing much volume. I haven’t purchased the fridge parts yet but I think Mads installed one on Athena (he seems to do his homework too…) and I met the owner of Technautics a few years ago at a trade show and it looks like the best unit out there for an ice box conversion. Thanks for the tip on the deck joint also. I wondered about that. I need to pull the headliner down in some spots for some other work so I will look into that. I would expect more damage to the interior wood if it was NOT glassed inside, so I am hoping that you are correct there. Place your bets! PS.. Stop by the shed some time if you’re in the area ;)
Well, it appears I have a new subscription at hand...you have a heck of a project boat there....the only advice I would give at this point is if you plan on keeping her for the long haul, get rid of the teak. If you want to be a sailor/cruiser and not a repairman/maintenance man, get rid of the teak. It looks nice, but so does a lion and I don't think I'd mess with a lion either.
😂 yeah, I’m happy to invest in the project work now, but I don’t want to be working all the time on the teak once we splash… thanks for following along Dave!
I’ve been trying to tell him that. The only exterior teak you might see on my boat is the varnished companionway, which is covered most of the time. My teak trim is epoxied (holds paint better) and painted. You can substitute the teak look with the use of color. Paint-don’t think you’ll never have to paint again. A major consideration is the difficulty level of sanding and repainting. I’d stay away from Kiwi Grip, which seems to be very popular right now, as it is very hard to remove.
Great job asking for comments. 1. Engine - compression test before touching the top end. Replace heat exchangers, pumps, exhaust elbows, starter, throttle and gear cables. Maybe rebuild transmission….. 2. Black Iron Tanks - they were a terrible idea. They rust from the inside out due to water in fuel or outside in due to bilge water. I agree with your desire for a mechanical diesel (no electronics) for reliability. Lack of reliable clean fuel eliminates the benefit of the mechanical diesel. Can you completely line the inside of the tanks with a flowable material that is compatible with diesel? To recore the decks is a big job from a labor perspective but relatively straightforward and a significant enhancement to the value of the boat. Agree that all heavy current wiring should be replaced with tinned. I am not on the Lithium bandwagon yet. Great power density but super dangerous from a run away/fire perspective. I enjoy folks removing propane due to an explosiun risk and then adding lithium batteries…. I would rather add more AGM, panels or fuel for the generator. If you have ever seen a lithium battery fire, you would not want to deal with that at sea, boat is a total loss, quickly. Terrible hull to deck joint design for a 1980s boat. I assume that you will go to external chain plates? Replace the hatches with new, after all not windows but sky lights into your home. I have tried the “rebuilds”, waste of money. Rock on, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for all of the great input!! I agree that the tanks were not well planned. Even worse is the fact that they won't come out without major surgery... I had an idea to line them with something like POR15 but that was before I realized that they have some baffles that I had not noticed before that I can't get past through the inspection hatches. Cutting those baffles out and lining with bladders from ATL or similar is a potential solution. I hear you about the lithium risks. I worked for an automotive manufacturer for a few years that was integrating lithium into the powertrain. The Lifepo4 chemistry is much safer than the other chemistries that have given lithium such a bad reputation. They are still dangerous and need really good battery management systems to work well. I am not a fan of the "drop in" lithium solutions although many boaters are using them happily (what you don't know can't hurt you?) I don't think I have any other way to re-rig the boat other than to go for external plates. I REALLY want to keep the boat looking original but I don't think I can excavate the interior to access the hull interior without irreparable damage to the teak and as you already noted... it is in great shape so it would be a shame to damage it. Thanks again for the input and your support. Hope to see you back here again soon!
For my two cents ... trash all of the teak -- the cap rails have already aided in the infiltration that you will now have to repair, and the grab rails would look better in Stainless Steel. As for the propane locker ... repurpose it for storage, but before you abandon the propane look into the stern mounts that go on the rear railing / davit systems (it removes much of the danger as leaks simply leave with the wind out to sea). As for the motor ... test the oil first and foremost, if the results come back favorable save the money on the rebuild and use some of the money to stock up on spare parts for the journey (starter, alternator, water pump, fuel pump, hoses, belts, etc) and maybe a Rocor Fuel Filter system with multiple filters. If however the results of the oil testing is bad then consider whether you want to stay with the Leyman -- Yanmar probably has the best access for parts world wide, and a major breakdown on the other side of the world could leave you stranded waiting on Leyman parts for months at a time. As for the fuel tanks you did not mention the option of relining them with gasoline resistant epoxy -- this is a very good option and there are videos available for the process (afterward you will also have a large access panel to aid in future clean outs). Before you tear apart the refrigerator system, look into "Sailing Adrift" You Tube channel to see their setup for refrigeration -- it might save you some time and space. Finally I'm glad to hear that you are replacing all of the trough hulls -- I wouldn't be able to sleep on a boat with fittings that old.
Hi! Thanks for the thorough comment! I think there are a lot of good points to consider here! I am still considering a few options about the tanks. I have used a pour in tank liner with great success on a few motorcycles. I was coming up with a plan to do the same on these but it is tricky to rotate these tanks around to move the material. I will need to add 1-2 more access panels to reach all of the insides because of their size and some large interior baffles… I still have a few things to think about… Thanks for watching ! 🙏👍🙌
Nice Project. In my experience, two main rules apply: Eliminate all the teak outside and replace all wiring completely. Thereafter, 50% of your headaches over the next 20 years will disappear. Good luck. Regards from Switzerland.
Thanks for the tip Silvano. I think you’re on to something there. I love the look of the teak but it’s such a headache to maintain. I’m 99% sure we will be rewiring the boat too so hopefully after that “smooth sailing” 👍
Please keep the teak handrails. First of all stainless becomes very hot in the sun, second the teak seems healthy and is there already. As the wood is cut from the forest it would be a waste to throw them away. Same goes for the teak deck. There's a new alternative for teak from German company "Wolz Nautic", they have developed in cooperation with an German superyacht yard an material on wood base behaving in all terms like teak. This is used on new superyachts already and available for everyone as well. No connection to this company, a friend of mine is working at the shipyard responsible for the development. Really great stuff, it's just as non slippery, durable and looks like teak. Real superyacht quality. Don't know if it's bendable to replace the split cap rail. I believe so as handrails on superyachts are another common case of use but the stuff is treated with chemicals and heat so steam bending might not be possible. Laminate wooden layers?
Thanks for the tips! The teak deck is too far gone to save … more on that later. The handrails however are candidates for more adventures. I will consider your perspective and keep everyone updated. I’ll look into that alternative product too. Thanks!!
Hi. This is Doug in Blaine WA. I found your channel via a Magic Carpet. I lived aboard a Formosa 46 for several years, and that boat was similar to yours in many ways. Like most boat owners, I did a lot of boat projects over the years, but nothing as extensive as what you are taking on. My chainplates were encapsulated like yours, with welded cross supports. I never did surgery on the chainplates, but those chainplates and the older rigging were always on my mind. I'm glad to see that chainplates are on your list of things to think about improving before you go cruising. I would also like to encourage you to keep a bow thruster in mind. I singlehanded my boat a lot, and it was my experience that getting into a slip surrounded by expensive boats on a breezy day was a frightening experience, especially with the modified full keel configuration that both our boats had. I'm retired now, and I have switched from boats to camper vans, but I'm really looking forward to following the progress on your build.
Hi Doug. Thanks for reaching out. Yes, the Formosa 46 and the 458 are kind of cousins. The story is that Peter Hoyt had a Formosa 46 and it inspired him to design the 458 interior and they “borrowed” the molds do the extended KP44. Something like that… I hope I’m not butchering the story too badly… Agree on the thruster. I got pretty good at handling the boat in the short time we had it in the water but it’s a lot of boat with terrible prop walk and a thruster is definitely on my list. Keep in touch and maybe we will see you around. 🙏👍🙌
As one who has just finished re-habbing a 1985 Bristol 45.5 may I suggest a few things. First, if the wiring looks good, which your's does, and it is flow electricity as it should (meter test), then leave it alone. Rewiring a boat that size will take forever, and you have many other projects. As one who spent 15 year in the Caribbean on a Hans Christian 48T, I can tell you crazing on your hatches is not a concern, as you, like everyone else, will get canvas covers for them. The sunlight is just too intense, and quickly destroys the interior varnish. If they are water tight and the hinges work well, then let them be. You are spot on regarding the through hull and sea cocks. I strongly recommend the Forespar replacements. A bit pricey but they last forever. Good luck and stay the course.
We re insulated our fridge, installed technautics cool blue - super happy with cool blue runs 24/7 with solar and battleborn lithium Bristo 38.8. SV Dreamer
There is something to be said about wooden hand holds, not to hot in the sun, not freezing to them in the cold. A small amount of maintenance might be acceptable. Fuel tanks last about plus or minus 30 yrs. So while you have things open guess you should budget and replace. Even careful inspection might miss that pinhole that is just waiting to start dripping. Wonder if you could bladder them?
Thanks for the perspective on the hand holds. It’s always good to consider all of the angles and unintended consequences first. You make some good points for me to think about. With the tanks I have thought about getting bladders made by (ATL I think?…). I will look more into that in the coming weeks. Thanks again for your interest in the project! Cheers.
Teak is not a lot of work, that’s why it’s such a popular marine lumber. And because of that, it’s becoming harder to get and of course more expensive.
Hi. Thank you for your perspective. Everything is relative I guess. Teak is certainly less work than any other wood choice for a marine application. Still much more than some other surfaces but at the cost of aesthetic… everything is a trade off … 🤷♂️
Great project and superb presentation. Subscribing and watching with interest. My thoughts… Fuel tanks…Save fuel tanks if you can line with bladders, coatings etc. Will be difficult, costly and destructive to extricate & replace. Buy time and use $ saved for other problems. Buy 5-10 years of life and get sailing first. Hatches. If not wracked and leaking, replace plastic lenses, save money for other jobs. Fridge, freezer. Go modern DC low power. Easier and works better. Engine. Have a friend with Lehman, they’re wonderful. His is mid-70s vintage and still running great. Company still in biz, has superb support and should have records for your engine. Spare parts readily available. Buddy’s had over 10k hours, conventional wisdom was it was about half way to a rebuild. It’s a tractor engine known for getting 10s of thousands of hours with care. RUMINT, some are hooked to power generators running 24/7/365 with more than 100k hours and still chugging. Yours looks like it’s had good care. Contact Lehman… Teak… pretty, deck penetrations, ugly. Find a good balance.😮 Don’t forget rubber hoses, replace them all while easy. They’ll fail from rot faster than everything you’re considering. More so on engine systems due to heat, and heads, etc. Also hose clamps refresh them, stainless baby! Plastic supply lines to sinks less concerning than rubber which dry rots and oxidizes more when not used. Best of luck.
Thank you for the excellent feedback. Lots of good stuff in there and I agree with your points. Thanks for watching and following along! More to come. Cheers! 🙏
Great video! I have a boat of a similar age and construction style. A couple of the items we discovered were a leaking holding tank, a leaking fuel tank, and so on. From what I can gather, I'd figure to replace the holding tank with something in the 40-gallon range, replace the diesel tanks, and have a really, truly, down-and-dirty look at the engine. When we bought our boat, her engine passed the engine survey. We later discovered a raw-water leak, a high-pressure fuel-pump leak, and various pieces and parts that needed reworking. Also, if the deck core is going/gone, you'll want to take a hard look at the areas where the mast goes through the deck. Another channel you might want to check out is Sail Life. He had to redo his decks completely. And, too, the guy on A Boat Called Wanda went through a similar drill. Best of luck! I'm looking forward to how the project progresses!
I watch them every week and have been following from the start. That’s an amazing project! I would need to remove the interior completely to do carbon plates so I’m not sure it’s in the cards but stick around and we will figure something out. 🤔
They are now being used in building structures, so the toughness is pretty good. I would also install it in a sandwich composite where the VIP is the core with FRP on both sides. It is not one big vacuum chamber like a thermos bottle. It has small chambers in a honeycomb pattern so that loss of vacuum only affects the single cell.
@@livingforsail ??? I have not priced it out. That is more of an Architectural question, and I am just a Structural Engineer. 😄😄😄 The are using it for floor insulation in building structures so it cannot be out of this world.
Not sure if anyone else has suggested this, but I installed a Jet Thruster on my HC33 and love it. Probably a little less cost and a lot easier installation than a tunnel bow thruster. I’m watching with a lot of interest since I’m going to be doing a lot of the same work in a few months. Would love more info on the boat shed. Thanks!
Funny you should mention that. I did a video interview with Bob Perry about the refit and he suggested that hardware. I didn’t get great footage making the shed because I was racing the weather as the birds all flew south… I am considering adding a section to the back and will make a how-to if I do that.
As someone with no experience with sailboats or engineering, I love learning about the issues you are discovering and how you plan on fixing! Thanks for sharing the journey with the rest of us! Also, loved the bloopers 😅
Looks like you have a good plan and I love that boat! If the engine is running fine, I’d take it one step at a time before replacing: oil sample, rebuild injectors and maybe top end rebuild.
Sailing vessel mig channel had a local guy who owns his own small business and builds some amazing refrigerator and freezer in modern ways which result in efficiency and longevity
I like the prisms. They provide some light inside, useful at anchor. Just, they are vulnerable and lights can be placed at will and where you actually do need them. Two minds about them, they belong on the boat. Just, there are better ways to provide light. And no, I have absolutely no interest in 'keep the boat original'. In essence it is a production boat, not a one off. But even when someone wishes to keep it original, the question should be 'does it make the boat safer'. And that is always the main concern. Look at it from another point of view: Tally Ho was a tremendous boat in her day. Just what Leo is doing is the right thing, improve the systems. Yes, yes, I was done, just I had to comment.. 😂
Great input Paul. I agree. That they have a place on the boat. I don’t think they add much in the way of safety, but I don’t think they compromise safety if done correctly. I have some ideas for those. Maya and Aladino actually gave me an old prism from Magic Carpet 2 that they don’t need and it’s an exact fit for the one that I am missing! I will probably have these incorporated into the deck and also include some new soft lighting strategy using LEDs. Ok, I think you are caught up on all of your video comments now 😂. I really appreciate the interest in the project! 🙏👍🙌
Sailing uma went full electric. Including propulsion that is. They had a (light) genset on board for when they where in the northern latitudes. I‘d stick to reliable diesel + electric for the rest. Or.. if you wanted to make it harder.. find a cheap vw 1.9tdi alh, marinize it, couple it to an electric motor that can propel the boat and generate power. 😅
The technology is getting better but I think I agree to stick to the proven diesel for now. Uma’s boat (great channel by the way) is a Pearson 36 I think and is a little less than half the displacement of Antidote. The short of it is that I’d need a pretty big motor/battery setup to realize any range out of full electric on this boat. Maybe as battery tech improves and prices come down I could plan to re-purpose the diesel tanks into “engine battery space”. Time will tell. Thanks for the input!
@@livingforsail if you ever get to the point where you want to do some custom engraving, I've got a 48x49 CNC router in Seattle that should be able to handle most of what you throw at it...
Go all electric cooking and solid fuel BBQ, no more propane. Foam or nidex core hard top with lots of PV all the way to the dingy davids. Replace chainplates with glass and carbon fibre chainplates and synthetic rigging. Possible electric power for dingy, or diesel outboard. A small light diesel outboard. No petrol required.
Your engine looks to be in good shape. I'd want to do a compression test/leakdown test. Not sure how you do that on a diesel.. I'm really excited to follow along. You present well; clear, focused, steady and determined. Thank for having me along for the ride!
Thank YOU for coming aboard. Welcome! I appreciate the feedback. The engine doesn’t have glow plugs so there are no obvious places to install a compression tester. I will chat with the company that imported the engine into the states all those years ago and keep the group updated. I’d honestly rather have the old mechanical engine than anything new and I was an engineer for a diesel engine manufacturer for 15 years… 😳😂
We are two years into a massive refit of a Perry designed Norseman 447. I installed a bow thruster and went with the most complex tunnel scoop design because why not? It was a really fun project that required a lot of head scratching and fixture design. We also faced the cap rail dilemma and chose to fabricate a new one out of tropical hardwood rather than go with an aluminum toe rail. I will be happy to answer any questions you may have if you think it would be helpful.
Couple thoughts as I watch. My bilge vented loop goes up through the cabinet to under deck level. Also might want to consider door for the companionway. We love them.
Nice project and good to see another one here in the Salish Sea. For your fridge/freezer rebuild, have you considered using a Vacuum Insulated Panel (VIP) instead of foam for the box. That way you get much higher performance in much less space. Something like Advanc-R has an R value of 66/inch.
Hi Jon, You've managed to suck me into another boat refit and I must say excellent content, editing and presentation, really enjoying your build. My gut feeling is your tracking pretty good on projects to tackle, focus and priorities will get you to the end. Best success! 😀
You ask about the motor and my Libery has a Perkins so I can't help you with the Lehman, but you jokingly asked if you should replace with a 10hp outboard. I mounted my 5hp outboard to the swim ladder to get into a mooring when I lost my starter and it can move this boat at 3 knots! Perfect for getting into an anchorage in a pinch. :)
Keep the prisims for the light they provide. Since you will be recoring the deck,can the core be made thicker to keep the original level of the teak? That would eliminate any mods to the prisms.
When I re-core the sections with the prisms I will try to provide a recess to drop the prisms into. Raising the whole deck up would be a ton of extra glass work and fairing I think. I agree with you that the light they provide is great. Do you have any? Are they leakers?
Jon, Great start and you appear to have eyes wide open. Our dreams started +30 years ago and were delayed to normal retirement age. We are in year 10 of the boat project. .Fortunately, we had access to the original fiberglass tooling and skilled labor of the original company that built Odyssey in 1980.
It’s the part that I can’t see that worries me the most between the hull and underside of the tank. I will take a good long look at these and figure out a plan. Thanks for the input!
My boat is also a 89 IP35 with Lumar hatches. I changed out the crazed lens on each rather than replacing for about $500 total. The material ran about 200 and the additional was for hiring a local carpenter to do the router work as I was remote from my tools. Worth considering.
I have considered that too. Do you happen to know what version of the lewmar hatch you have? My understanding is that any of them can be refit but the “Ocean” models are harder because you need to cut all of the old glazing out. Some of mine have pretty worn hinges and frames at this point. I’ve found a few new replacements for great prices on eBay over the years so I will probably just replace but it is solid advice! Thank you!!
@@livingforsailI have the oldest design with no "c" clips on the hinge pins so i did not remove the frames or lens holders from the boat. Changing out the lens is easy, SailBros episode 58 is a great video on the process. The caulking can be removed without much of a problem but be sure not to damage the rubber seal below as you will reinstall it. I cleaned up the existing handles/latches and reinstalled. Rough cut blanks can be purchased from EPlastics out of San Diego, give yourself a half inch in every direction for the router work. Absolutely no leaks even hurricane tested but best of all was the money I saved over buying new.
The inside of the fuel tanks can be restored with a product that is made.. I've used it on old motorcycle tanks that were in bad shape, plus add eight a fuel polishing system or another fuel filter
@livingforsail I didn't even think about you having baffles.. I'm sure they make something that will work.. citric acid is biodegradable and is a wonderful cleaner.. perhaps you can drain them and clean them out..
@@bendaves77 I will pressure treat first to make sure there are no pinholes. If not, I will probably try to keep using them. If they develop leaks I will get ATL to make some fuel tank liners for them. It looks like a good solution for decent $ and only 5% loss of volume.
From the state of the teak on the deck, and those bolts protruding, I would say that you are in for complete deck core replacement! You're certainly up to the task and as Mads (you've mention) said in his case with the rotten deck, another big project for the viewers to enjoy and the channel to grow! 😉
Bummer about the extra work you’re finding, although that seems to be a common theme on boats. Wondering if you had a proper survey done before you bought it? Love the outtakes at the end. Simply hilarious.
Yep, a boat is never “done” even a new boat needs work. This is a particularly large amount of work though… oh well. I happen to enjoy it 👍 I did have a survey that gave me a pretty realistic picture of the deck work needed.
Keep the gas locker but only for an outside barbecue. This is a back up to your electric cooking and provides reliability. Plus you have a bbq. That’s my thinking anyway.
That had crossed my mind also. It’s a lot of propane for an outdoor BBQ… I could probably commit half of the space to a small aluminum cylinder and then use the other side for XYZ… I have heard that propane can be difficult to obtain while abroad so I don’t know that I want to invest too much into the propane system.
@@livingforsail I think the point is not whether you can get gas somewhere but rather that if you are off grid and you power goes out for whatever reason - you are still able to cook. If you are worried that you are not going to be able to refill gas bottles then you are considering at least being quite off grid. You could even have one propane and one LPG. I take your point about space but self reliance off grid is an area worth consideration if that is something you are considering. You need to keep afloat. You need an engine. You need water and food. To me that gas locker is a small space that will allow for a bbq which you will use anyway. And provides backup to cooking. I will stop my ranting now lol. I hope your journey to the water is smooth sailing so to speak.
Haha. Those are amazing. I do have a mental block however with glued in chain plates. I get it that they are spec’d to several times more load than required but there’s just something about a bolt that makes me feel a bit more comfortable…
Yeah, that’s what I am thinking too. I’m kicking myself a bit for not getting a good sample before parking the boat. I’ll figure out a way to get some water to the boat and run it for a few minutes to stir up the oil before getting a sample… at least, that’s my thinking so far 🤔
I would definitely go thru the diesel engine keep it.. if you need more power then you can add a turbo.. do a oil analysis when you change it your first time.. it will tell you what bearings and parts if any are wearing fast and be able to give you a life expectancy report
@livingforsail we've used oil analysis for years in semi truck diesels and every wearing piece is made by a different composition and they can tell exactly what is wearing, and how quickly it's going to need repaired and the analysis isn't that costly
@@bendaves77 I regret not collecting a sample after running the engine and stirring the oil up… I could get it restarted up on the hard (probably good to run it periodically anyway…) That’s probably what I’ll do.
Hello John just saw you on Captain’s hour last night Love your you tube channel I’m in Issaquah and would love to drive up and see your project Let me know if that works Thanks Bill H
Haha. Right on. Yeah, I love a good captains hour. I can’t say enough good things about John Kretschmer. Why don’t you fire me an email. Look for it in the video description. 👍🙌
Lehmann 90 is a ford major tractor and D series truck engine , as you said they all smoke from cold . But they are bullet proof and you can get parts all over the world. What is the reduction gear ? Usually they had borgwarner , prm/ newage or hurth/ zf . Borgwarner are good but make sure oils red and clean . Prm and hurth no issues. My qualifications are marine engineer of 36 yrs .
Yeah, I think the motor has a lot of life in it. Do you have any input on maybe just doing the top end while it is “easy”? Maybe not even necessary… probably won’t make any call until I do an oil sample and possibly compression test (might be hard since there no readily accessible port to tap) I have the BW with 2:1 I believe. Unknown hours on it. Probably worth going through it.
Spin the engine over with the injector pump fuel stop on . If it sounds even on turning it over on starter , leave it alone , if it sound irregular one or more pistons are low compression, or valve leakage . The only real issue with these engines was valve stem seals getting hard with age . Oil pressure should be 40 psi at 1200 rpm above 15 psi at idle . If on start up the smoke is blue rebuild head , do not get head skimmed, never any course to , have checked for cracks ,but not usually a problem. Injection pump should be a minimec, if not please tell me what makes fitted cav or simms on older engines . BW reduction ,make sure oil cooler is clean ,oil and coolant sides. Other than theses points to check if all good , leave alone . It won't let you down . Carry spare as you should , filters , belts , oil, coolant , raw water impellers . If it was me , a head jacket decode set as well then you covered for anything .
@@cartertanya1258 I’ll give it a spin like you suggest. It is the minimec pump on this one. I didn’t understand the water jacket decode? Could you expand on that? Thanks!!
Hi John! Some quetions about the shed build.. what is your space around the boat, like how wide is the boat compared to the shed? How tall is the shed above deck level? What are your thoughts here? I am trying to design my own shed for a similar project!
The shed is 21’ wide and 21’ tall at the peak and this gives me just about 6’ of head height at the edges of the deck. The beams are spaced at 48” and all wrapped in 7mil shrink wrap.
Hi Tim! Thank you for that offer. I added my email to the video description (maybe half way down). Just in case, feel free to reach out to livingforsail@gmail.com. Thanks again for reaching out! 🙏👍🙌
@@livingforsail They have really thins stuff these days - you can get the classic look with a fraction of the weight - Looking forward to your series...
LiFePo4 is the go. They're safe and not very expensive these days, particularly if you DIY. Before committing to removing all propane, perhaps buy a portable induction cooktop (they're cheap) and see how it goes in terms of energy consumption.
Hi John
Nice project you got there. Isn’t it crazy with boats how much renewal they need from time to time. I watched your initial tour and the boat looked ready to splash and be lived on but when you dig in it looks different. Luckily it’s mostly the systems though that are outdated and the hull and interior are looking great.
Luckily you don’t have a visa limitation giving you a timecrunch but I would still consider carefully what to prioritize.
Galley: we have not used our system yet but the folks over at technautics have been the best to work with and I’m stoked about the specs on their holding plate/ compressor units.
Also look into aerogel for insulating without loosing volume.
And before cutting into your hull to deck joint I would remove ceiling and inspect from the interior side. I would assume that is has been glassed from the inside too.
Big gaps were often filled with plain polyester resin which is brittle and prone to crack. Not a big issue though. If there is glass on the underside you could just fill the gap again. Hard to assess and comment on just from the video.
Best of luck,
Aladino
Hi Aladino!
Thank you for taking some time away from your own AMAZING project to lend your expertise here!!
I think that apart from the decks and hull to deck joint, the structure of the boat is pretty sound. We will see! As you already know, you tend to learn more about your situation as you dig into the project further and yes, it seems that they can always use more work. I think your advice to prioritize is sound as one thing can easily lead to the next like pulling a thread on the sweater…
I am not familiar with the Aerogel, so I will look into that. It would be great to get a higher R value without losing much volume. I haven’t purchased the fridge parts yet but I think Mads installed one on Athena (he seems to do his homework too…) and I met the owner of Technautics a few years ago at a trade show and it looks like the best unit out there for an ice box conversion.
Thanks for the tip on the deck joint also. I wondered about that. I need to pull the headliner down in some spots for some other work so I will look into that. I would expect more damage to the interior wood if it was NOT glassed inside, so I am hoping that you are correct there.
Place your bets!
PS.. Stop by the shed some time if you’re in the area ;)
Well, it appears I have a new subscription at hand...you have a heck of a project boat there....the only advice I would give at this point is if you plan on keeping her for the long haul, get rid of the teak. If you want to be a sailor/cruiser and not a repairman/maintenance man, get rid of the teak. It looks nice, but so does a lion and I don't think I'd mess with a lion either.
😂 yeah, I’m happy to invest in the project work now, but I don’t want to be working all the time on the teak once we splash… thanks for following along Dave!
I’ve been trying to tell him that. The only exterior teak you might see on my boat is the varnished companionway, which is covered most of the time. My teak trim is epoxied (holds paint better) and painted. You can substitute the teak look with the use of color. Paint-don’t think you’ll never have to paint again. A major consideration is the difficulty level of sanding and repainting. I’d stay away from Kiwi Grip, which seems to be very popular right now, as it is very hard to remove.
Great job asking for comments. 1. Engine - compression test before touching the top end. Replace heat exchangers, pumps, exhaust elbows, starter, throttle and gear cables. Maybe rebuild transmission….. 2. Black Iron Tanks - they were a terrible idea. They rust from the inside out due to water in fuel or outside in due to bilge water. I agree with your desire for a mechanical diesel (no electronics) for reliability. Lack of reliable clean fuel eliminates the benefit of the mechanical diesel. Can you completely line the inside of the tanks with a flowable material that is compatible with diesel? To recore the decks is a big job from a labor perspective but relatively straightforward and a significant enhancement to the value of the boat. Agree that all heavy current wiring should be replaced with tinned. I am not on the Lithium bandwagon yet. Great power density but super dangerous from a run away/fire perspective. I enjoy folks removing propane due to an explosiun risk and then adding lithium batteries…. I would rather add more AGM, panels or fuel for the generator. If you have ever seen a lithium battery fire, you would not want to deal with that at sea, boat is a total loss, quickly. Terrible hull to deck joint design for a 1980s boat. I assume that you will go to external chain plates? Replace the hatches with new, after all not windows but sky lights into your home. I have tried the “rebuilds”, waste of money. Rock on, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for all of the great input!! I agree that the tanks were not well planned. Even worse is the fact that they won't come out without major surgery... I had an idea to line them with something like POR15 but that was before I realized that they have some baffles that I had not noticed before that I can't get past through the inspection hatches. Cutting those baffles out and lining with bladders from ATL or similar is a potential solution.
I hear you about the lithium risks. I worked for an automotive manufacturer for a few years that was integrating lithium into the powertrain. The Lifepo4 chemistry is much safer than the other chemistries that have given lithium such a bad reputation. They are still dangerous and need really good battery management systems to work well. I am not a fan of the "drop in" lithium solutions although many boaters are using them happily (what you don't know can't hurt you?)
I don't think I have any other way to re-rig the boat other than to go for external plates. I REALLY want to keep the boat looking original but I don't think I can excavate the interior to access the hull interior without irreparable damage to the teak and as you already noted... it is in great shape so it would be a shame to damage it.
Thanks again for the input and your support. Hope to see you back here again soon!
For my two cents ... trash all of the teak -- the cap rails have already aided in the infiltration that you will now have to repair, and the grab rails would look better in Stainless Steel. As for the propane locker ... repurpose it for storage, but before you abandon the propane look into the stern mounts that go on the rear railing / davit systems (it removes much of the danger as leaks simply leave with the wind out to sea). As for the motor ... test the oil first and foremost, if the results come back favorable save the money on the rebuild and use some of the money to stock up on spare parts for the journey (starter, alternator, water pump, fuel pump, hoses, belts, etc) and maybe a Rocor Fuel Filter system with multiple filters. If however the results of the oil testing is bad then consider whether you want to stay with the Leyman -- Yanmar probably has the best access for parts world wide, and a major breakdown on the other side of the world could leave you stranded waiting on Leyman parts for months at a time. As for the fuel tanks you did not mention the option of relining them with gasoline resistant epoxy -- this is a very good option and there are videos available for the process (afterward you will also have a large access panel to aid in future clean outs). Before you tear apart the refrigerator system, look into "Sailing Adrift" You Tube channel to see their setup for refrigeration -- it might save you some time and space. Finally I'm glad to hear that you are replacing all of the trough hulls -- I wouldn't be able to sleep on a boat with fittings that old.
Hi! Thanks for the thorough comment! I think there are a lot of good points to consider here!
I am still considering a few options about the tanks. I have used a pour in tank liner with great success on a few motorcycles. I was coming up with a plan to do the same on these but it is tricky to rotate these tanks around to move the material. I will need to add 1-2 more access panels to reach all of the insides because of their size and some large interior baffles…
I still have a few things to think about…
Thanks for watching ! 🙏👍🙌
Nice Project. In my experience, two main rules apply: Eliminate all the teak outside and replace all wiring completely. Thereafter, 50% of your headaches over the next 20 years will disappear. Good luck. Regards from Switzerland.
Thanks for the tip Silvano. I think you’re on to something there. I love the look of the teak but it’s such a headache to maintain. I’m 99% sure we will be rewiring the boat too so hopefully after that “smooth sailing” 👍
As Ham Radio Operator I'd keep the HF as a back. Another tool in the box.
Do you have any tips on getting it tested before committing? With the rig down the antenna is out of commission (it had an isolated port backstay)
Please keep the teak handrails. First of all stainless becomes very hot in the sun, second the teak seems healthy and is there already. As the wood is cut from the forest it would be a waste to throw them away. Same goes for the teak deck. There's a new alternative for teak from German company "Wolz Nautic", they have developed in cooperation with an German superyacht yard an material on wood base behaving in all terms like teak. This is used on new superyachts already and available for everyone as well. No connection to this company, a friend of mine is working at the shipyard responsible for the development. Really great stuff, it's just as non slippery, durable and looks like teak. Real superyacht quality. Don't know if it's bendable to replace the split cap rail. I believe so as handrails on superyachts are another common case of use but the stuff is treated with chemicals and heat so steam bending might not be possible. Laminate wooden layers?
Thanks for the tips! The teak deck is too far gone to save … more on that later. The handrails however are candidates for more adventures. I will consider your perspective and keep everyone updated.
I’ll look into that alternative product too. Thanks!!
okay.. I'm hooked... and you have lots to do which I will vicariously enjoy ...
Haha. Glad to have you aboard. Might as well get comfy… we will be here a while 😂🙌
Hi. This is Doug in Blaine WA. I found your channel via a Magic Carpet. I lived aboard a Formosa 46 for several years, and that boat was similar to yours in many ways. Like most boat owners, I did a lot of boat projects over the years, but nothing as extensive as what you are taking on. My chainplates were encapsulated like yours, with welded cross supports. I never did surgery on the chainplates, but those chainplates and the older rigging were always on my mind. I'm glad to see that chainplates are on your list of things to think about improving before you go cruising. I would also like to encourage you to keep a bow thruster in mind. I singlehanded my boat a lot, and it was my experience that getting into a slip surrounded by expensive boats on a breezy day was a frightening experience, especially with the modified full keel configuration that both our boats had. I'm retired now, and I have switched from boats to camper vans, but I'm really looking forward to following the progress on your build.
Hi Doug. Thanks for reaching out. Yes, the Formosa 46 and the 458 are kind of cousins. The story is that Peter Hoyt had a Formosa 46 and it inspired him to design the 458 interior and they “borrowed” the molds do the extended KP44. Something like that… I hope I’m not butchering the story too badly…
Agree on the thruster. I got pretty good at handling the boat in the short time we had it in the water but it’s a lot of boat with terrible prop walk and a thruster is definitely on my list.
Keep in touch and maybe we will see you around. 🙏👍🙌
As one who has just finished re-habbing a 1985 Bristol 45.5 may I suggest a few things. First, if the wiring looks good, which your's does, and it is flow electricity as it should (meter test), then leave it alone. Rewiring a boat that size will take forever, and you have many other projects. As one who spent 15 year in the Caribbean on a Hans Christian 48T, I can tell you crazing on your hatches is not a concern, as you, like everyone else, will get canvas covers for them. The sunlight is just too intense, and quickly destroys the interior varnish. If they are water tight and the hinges work well, then let them be. You are spot on regarding the through hull and sea cocks. I strongly recommend the Forespar replacements. A bit pricey but they last forever. Good luck and stay the course.
Thanks for the input Robert. I will take the wiring experience into consideration. I'll do some resistance checks and we can go from there... Thanks!
We re insulated our fridge, installed technautics cool blue - super happy with cool blue runs 24/7 with solar and battleborn lithium
Bristo 38.8. SV Dreamer
Did you build a spillover fridge/freezer, or just refrigeration?
There is something to be said about wooden hand holds, not to hot in the sun, not freezing to them in the cold. A small amount of maintenance might be acceptable.
Fuel tanks last about plus or minus 30 yrs. So while you have things open guess you should budget and replace. Even careful inspection might miss that pinhole that is just waiting to start dripping. Wonder if you could bladder them?
Thanks for the perspective on the hand holds. It’s always good to consider all of the angles and unintended consequences first. You make some good points for me to think about.
With the tanks I have thought about getting bladders made by (ATL I think?…). I will look more into that in the coming weeks.
Thanks again for your interest in the project! Cheers.
The caprail along with the deck handholds would look amazing done in polished stainless steel with a teak wood inlay running down the center of it..
That’s a very interesting idea 🤔🙌
Teak is not a lot of work, that’s why it’s such a popular marine lumber. And because of that, it’s becoming harder to get and of course more expensive.
Hi. Thank you for your perspective. Everything is relative I guess. Teak is certainly less work than any other wood choice for a marine application. Still much more than some other surfaces but at the cost of aesthetic… everything is a trade off … 🤷♂️
Great project and superb presentation. Subscribing and watching with interest. My thoughts…
Fuel tanks…Save fuel tanks if you can line with bladders, coatings etc. Will be difficult, costly and destructive to extricate & replace. Buy time and use $ saved for other problems. Buy 5-10 years of life and get sailing first.
Hatches. If not wracked and leaking, replace plastic lenses, save money for other jobs.
Fridge, freezer. Go modern DC low power. Easier and works better.
Engine. Have a friend with Lehman, they’re wonderful. His is mid-70s vintage and still running great. Company still in biz, has superb support and should have records for your engine. Spare parts readily available. Buddy’s had over 10k hours, conventional wisdom was it was about half way to a rebuild. It’s a tractor engine known for getting 10s of thousands of hours with care. RUMINT, some are hooked to power generators running 24/7/365 with more than 100k hours and still chugging. Yours looks like it’s had good care. Contact Lehman…
Teak… pretty, deck penetrations, ugly. Find a good balance.😮
Don’t forget rubber hoses, replace them all while easy. They’ll fail from rot faster than everything you’re considering. More so on engine systems due to heat, and heads, etc. Also hose clamps refresh them, stainless baby! Plastic supply lines to sinks less concerning than rubber which dry rots and oxidizes more when not used.
Best of luck.
Thank you for the excellent feedback. Lots of good stuff in there and I agree with your points. Thanks for watching and following along! More to come. Cheers!
🙏
Great video! I have a boat of a similar age and construction style. A couple of the items we discovered were a leaking holding tank, a leaking fuel tank, and so on. From what I can gather, I'd figure to replace the holding tank with something in the 40-gallon range, replace the diesel tanks, and have a really, truly, down-and-dirty look at the engine. When we bought our boat, her engine passed the engine survey. We later discovered a raw-water leak, a high-pressure fuel-pump leak, and various pieces and parts that needed reworking. Also, if the deck core is going/gone, you'll want to take a hard look at the areas where the mast goes through the deck.
Another channel you might want to check out is Sail Life. He had to redo his decks completely. And, too, the guy on A Boat Called Wanda went through a similar drill.
Best of luck! I'm looking forward to how the project progresses!
Thanks for the feedback. I think it sounds like good perspective. I’ll definitely take a good look at the engine 👍
Regarding your chain plates, check our the Duracel project, they made carbon fiber chain plates.
I watch them every week and have been following from the start. That’s an amazing project! I would need to remove the interior completely to do carbon plates so I’m not sure it’s in the cards but stick around and we will figure something out. 🤔
They are now being used in building structures, so the toughness is pretty good. I would also install it in a sandwich composite where the VIP is the core with FRP on both sides. It is not one big vacuum chamber like a thermos bottle. It has small chambers in a honeycomb pattern so that loss of vacuum only affects the single cell.
I’ll definitely need to look into that. Is it $$$$$?
@@livingforsail ??? I have not priced it out. That is more of an Architectural question, and I am just a Structural Engineer. 😄😄😄 The are using it for floor insulation in building structures so it cannot be out of this world.
Not sure if anyone else has suggested this, but I installed a Jet Thruster on my HC33 and love it. Probably a little less cost and a lot easier installation than a tunnel bow thruster. I’m watching with a lot of interest since I’m going to be doing a lot of the same work in a few months. Would love more info on the boat shed. Thanks!
Funny you should mention that. I did a video interview with Bob Perry about the refit and he suggested that hardware.
I didn’t get great footage making the shed because I was racing the weather as the birds all flew south… I am considering adding a section to the back and will make a how-to if I do that.
As someone with no experience with sailboats or engineering, I love learning about the issues you are discovering and how you plan on fixing! Thanks for sharing the journey with the rest of us! Also, loved the bloopers 😅
Thanks for following along! I appreciate that.
Looks like you have a good plan and I love that boat! If the engine is running fine, I’d take it one step at a time before replacing: oil sample, rebuild injectors and maybe top end rebuild.
I like that plan. I’m thinking along the same lines lately.
Sailing vessel mig channel had a local guy who owns his own small business and builds some amazing refrigerator and freezer in modern ways which result in efficiency and longevity
I’ll have to check that out. Thanks! 🙏👍🙌
"Uh, my knee!" Me, every time I'm on a boat, no exceptions. 😂😂
I hear you! Haha. This one doesn’t move around much these days. You’d think I could avoid injury 🤷♂️
I like the prisms. They provide some light inside, useful at anchor. Just, they are vulnerable and lights can be placed at will and where you actually do need them.
Two minds about them, they belong on the boat. Just, there are better ways to provide light. And no, I have absolutely no interest in 'keep the boat original'. In essence it is a production boat, not a one off. But even when someone wishes to keep it original, the question should be 'does it make the boat safer'. And that is always the main concern. Look at it from another point of view: Tally Ho was a tremendous boat in her day. Just what Leo is doing is the right thing, improve the systems.
Yes, yes, I was done, just I had to comment.. 😂
Great input Paul. I agree. That they have a place on the boat. I don’t think they add much in the way of safety, but I don’t think they compromise safety if done correctly. I have some ideas for those.
Maya and Aladino actually gave me an old prism from Magic Carpet 2 that they don’t need and it’s an exact fit for the one that I am missing!
I will probably have these incorporated into the deck and also include some new soft lighting strategy using LEDs.
Ok, I think you are caught up on all of your video comments now 😂. I really appreciate the interest in the project! 🙏👍🙌
Sailing uma went full electric. Including propulsion that is. They had a (light) genset on board for when they where in the northern latitudes. I‘d stick to reliable diesel + electric for the rest.
Or.. if you wanted to make it harder.. find a cheap vw 1.9tdi alh, marinize it, couple it to an electric motor that can propel the boat and generate power. 😅
The technology is getting better but I think I agree to stick to the proven diesel for now.
Uma’s boat (great channel by the way) is a Pearson 36 I think and is a little less than half the displacement of Antidote. The short of it is that I’d need a pretty big motor/battery setup to realize any range out of full electric on this boat.
Maybe as battery tech improves and prices come down I could plan to re-purpose the diesel tanks into “engine battery space”.
Time will tell. Thanks for the input!
KABUKI! After watching you fix pontoon after pontoon at the boat house I can't think of anyone I'd rather take on such a great project!
Hi Ben! Good to have you here. Thanks for watching. Yeah, it’s a bit bigger of a project than the old hobies 😳🙌
@@livingforsail if you ever get to the point where you want to do some custom engraving, I've got a 48x49 CNC router in Seattle that should be able to handle most of what you throw at it...
@@BenCreelman oh I’m sure we can find a good use for that 🙂👍
Go all electric cooking and solid fuel BBQ, no more propane. Foam or nidex core hard top with lots of PV all the way to the dingy davids. Replace chainplates with glass and carbon fibre chainplates and synthetic rigging. Possible electric power for dingy, or diesel outboard. A small light diesel outboard. No petrol required.
Some interesting ideas in there. Thank you! 🙏👍
Your engine looks to be in good shape. I'd want to do a compression test/leakdown test. Not sure how you do that on a diesel.. I'm really excited to follow along. You present well; clear, focused, steady and determined. Thank for having me along for the ride!
Thank YOU for coming aboard. Welcome! I appreciate the feedback. The engine doesn’t have glow plugs so there are no obvious places to install a compression tester. I will chat with the company that imported the engine into the states all those years ago and keep the group updated. I’d honestly rather have the old mechanical engine than anything new and I was an engineer for a diesel engine manufacturer for 15 years… 😳😂
Do you have experience with some of these projects? I'd love to hear from you!
We are two years into a massive refit of a Perry designed Norseman 447. I installed a bow thruster and went with the most complex tunnel scoop design because why not? It was a really fun project that required a lot of head scratching and fixture design. We also faced the cap rail dilemma and chose to fabricate a new one out of tropical hardwood rather than go with an aluminum toe rail. I will be happy to answer any questions you may have if you think it would be helpful.
Couple thoughts as I watch. My bilge vented loop goes up through the cabinet to under deck level. Also might want to consider door for the companionway. We love them.
I have the old companion way doors that will need new hinges but I would like to have the option of using them too and will work something out there.
Nice project and good to see another one here in the Salish Sea. For your fridge/freezer rebuild, have you considered using a Vacuum Insulated Panel (VIP) instead of foam for the box. That way you get much higher performance in much less space. Something like Advanc-R has an R value of 66/inch.
I have considered those a bit but I worry about a failure and ending up at R0… maybe a combo of both?
Love the outtakes!
Haha. Thanks!! 🙏
Hi Jon, You've managed to suck me into another boat refit and I must say excellent content, editing and presentation, really enjoying your build. My gut feeling is your tracking pretty good on projects to tackle, focus and priorities will get you to the end. Best success! 😀
Hi Chris. Welcome aboard! Glad to have you here with us. Thanks so much for the encouragement! 🙏🙏 Cheers!!
You ask about the motor and my Libery has a Perkins so I can't help you with the Lehman, but you jokingly asked if you should replace with a 10hp outboard. I mounted my 5hp outboard to the swim ladder to get into a mooring when I lost my starter and it can move this boat at 3 knots! Perfect for getting into an anchorage in a pinch. :)
Wow. That’s actually pretty amazing. Line you said. Good in a pinch. 👍
Keep the prisims for the light they provide. Since you will be recoring the deck,can the core be made thicker to keep the original level of the teak? That would eliminate any mods to the prisms.
When I re-core the sections with the prisms I will try to provide a recess to drop the prisms into. Raising the whole deck up would be a ton of extra glass work and fairing I think. I agree with you that the light they provide is great. Do you have any? Are they leakers?
awesome boat and a nice project. you got this, good luck
Thank you! I appreciate the encouragement. 👍
Jon, Great start and you appear to have eyes wide open. Our dreams started +30 years ago and were delayed to normal retirement age. We are in year 10 of the boat project. .Fortunately, we had access to the original fiberglass tooling and skilled labor of the original company that built Odyssey in 1980.
Hi John. Thank you for the encouragement! Hope to see you out there someday!
The prisms have to stay.. they're just cool
I love them. I have an idea for that. I’ll share that soon. 🙌
I once heard saying 'the problem with boats is they don't like water'. Especially salty I guess. . 😅
Haha. Yeah! The marine world is very harsh. Surprisingly, fresh water is actually more hospitable for rotting wood! 🤔🤷♂️
The wood work on the inside looks largely usable and very lovely. Nice solid boat you have there, look forward to the refit,
The interior woodwork is top notch. I will do everything in my power to keep and preserve as much as possible! Thanks for watching!
Those fuel tanks are completely knackered replace with new ones, the last thing you what is any crap going towards the engine
It’s the part that I can’t see that worries me the most between the hull and underside of the tank. I will take a good long look at these and figure out a plan. Thanks for the input!
My boat is also a 89 IP35 with Lumar hatches. I changed out the crazed lens on each rather than replacing for about $500 total. The material ran about 200 and the additional was for hiring a local carpenter to do the router work as I was remote from my tools. Worth considering.
I have considered that too. Do you happen to know what version of the lewmar hatch you have? My understanding is that any of them can be refit but the “Ocean” models are harder because you need to cut all of the old glazing out.
Some of mine have pretty worn hinges and frames at this point. I’ve found a few new replacements for great prices on eBay over the years so I will probably just replace but it is solid advice! Thank you!!
@@livingforsailI have the oldest design with no "c" clips on the hinge pins so i did not remove the frames or lens holders from the boat. Changing out the lens is easy, SailBros episode 58 is a great video on the process. The caulking can be removed without much of a problem but be sure not to damage the rubber seal below as you will reinstall it. I cleaned up the existing handles/latches and reinstalled. Rough cut blanks can be purchased from EPlastics out of San Diego, give yourself a half inch in every direction for the router work. Absolutely no leaks even hurricane tested but best of all was the money I saved over buying new.
@@montanadan2524 thanks for the tips there. The price of these new can blow your hair back… 😳
The inside of the fuel tanks can be restored with a product that is made.. I've used it on old motorcycle tanks that were in bad shape, plus add eight a fuel polishing system or another fuel filter
Like Por15? I was thinking about that but I need to figure out how to deal with all of the baffles…
@livingforsail I didn't even think about you having baffles.. I'm sure they make something that will work.. citric acid is biodegradable and is a wonderful cleaner.. perhaps you can drain them and clean them out..
@@bendaves77 I will pressure treat first to make sure there are no pinholes. If not, I will probably try to keep using them. If they develop leaks I will get ATL to make some fuel tank liners for them. It looks like a good solution for decent $ and only 5% loss of volume.
From the state of the teak on the deck, and those bolts protruding, I would say that you are in for complete deck core replacement! You're certainly up to the task and as Mads (you've mention) said in his case with the rotten deck, another big project for the viewers to enjoy and the channel to grow! 😉
I would put my money on your prediction. We will find out soon! Thanks for the input!
So cool!!! 💯🎉
Thanks!
A wonderful beginning! Excellent editing! Thank you for bringing me along on a long and tedious journey! Can't wait till the next time 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks Peter. I appreciate that! Glad to have you following along!! 🙏
Bummer about the extra work you’re finding, although that seems to be a common theme on boats. Wondering if you had a proper survey done before you bought it?
Love the outtakes at the end. Simply hilarious.
Yep, a boat is never “done” even a new boat needs work. This is a particularly large amount of work though… oh well. I happen to enjoy it 👍
I did have a survey that gave me a pretty realistic picture of the deck work needed.
Keep the gas locker but only for an outside barbecue. This is a back up to your electric cooking and provides reliability. Plus you have a bbq. That’s my thinking anyway.
That had crossed my mind also. It’s a lot of propane for an outdoor BBQ… I could probably commit half of the space to a small aluminum cylinder and then use the other side for XYZ… I have heard that propane can be difficult to obtain while abroad so I don’t know that I want to invest too much into the propane system.
@@livingforsail I think the point is not whether you can get gas somewhere but rather that if you are off grid and you power goes out for whatever reason - you are still able to cook. If you are worried that you are not going to be able to refill gas bottles then you are considering at least being quite off grid. You could even have one propane and one LPG. I take your point about space but self reliance off grid is an area worth consideration if that is something you are considering. You need to keep afloat. You need an engine. You need water and food. To me that gas locker is a small space that will allow for a bbq which you will use anyway. And provides backup to cooking. I will stop my ranting now lol. I hope your journey to the water is smooth sailing so to speak.
@@rosscuthbertson2679 I appreciate the perspective. Thanks!
Maybe ask Matt to build you some new carbon fiber chain plates. 😂
Haha. Those are amazing. I do have a mental block however with glued in chain plates. I get it that they are spec’d to several times more load than required but there’s just something about a bolt that makes me feel a bit more comfortable…
@@livingforsail haha! Totally agree and I actually said as much in the Patreon comments, but he insists it’s actually stronger. Hard to imagine.
Start with oil test, see where it goes
Yeah, that’s what I am thinking too. I’m kicking myself a bit for not getting a good sample before parking the boat. I’ll figure out a way to get some water to the boat and run it for a few minutes to stir up the oil before getting a sample… at least, that’s my thinking so far 🤔
Yeah. I’d 100% agree with Brent. Start with an oil test.
@@DanielPatchingSDMB Thanks Dan. Keep the tips coming!!
Appreciate the overview , ambitious to do list , Bon Courage 💪 as is said here in Quebec when starting out on some ambitious project 😸😺
Merci!
I would definitely go thru the diesel engine keep it.. if you need more power then you can add a turbo.. do a oil analysis when you change it your first time.. it will tell you what bearings and parts if any are wearing fast and be able to give you a life expectancy report
The motor has plenty of power. They used the same one for the 49’ Liberty. I aim to keep it. Oil analysis seems like the best approach.
@livingforsail we've used oil analysis for years in semi truck diesels and every wearing piece is made by a different composition and they can tell exactly what is wearing, and how quickly it's going to need repaired and the analysis isn't that costly
@@bendaves77 I regret not collecting a sample after running the engine and stirring the oil up… I could get it restarted up on the hard (probably good to run it periodically anyway…) That’s probably what I’ll do.
Looks like you have a lot of great projects.
Yeah, when I started to review the video I had the same thought! Haha. I had better get back to work 😳. Thanks for the feedback!
With LEDs being so low power and the decent ones having a nice spectrum, I don't see the utility in light prisms given the risks they bring
That is a good point Chris. I appreciate the input! 🙏👍
You have quite a lot of work to do, before you get to set sail. Good luck, enjoy the journey, don’t give up!
Yep. It will take some time. It’s all a part of my journey 👍. Thanks for the encouragement.
Hello John just saw you on Captain’s hour last night
Love your you tube channel
I’m in Issaquah and would love to drive up and see your project
Let me know if that works
Thanks
Bill H
Haha. Right on. Yeah, I love a good captains hour. I can’t say enough good things about John Kretschmer.
Why don’t you fire me an email. Look for it in the video description. 👍🙌
Nice work
Thank you!
Lehmann 90 is a ford major tractor and D series truck engine , as you said they all smoke from cold . But they are bullet proof and you can get parts all over the world. What is the reduction gear ? Usually they had borgwarner , prm/ newage or hurth/ zf . Borgwarner are good but make sure oils red and clean . Prm and hurth no issues. My qualifications are marine engineer of 36 yrs .
Yeah, I think the motor has a lot of life in it. Do you have any input on maybe just doing the top end while it is “easy”? Maybe not even necessary… probably won’t make any call until I do an oil sample and possibly compression test (might be hard since there no readily accessible port to tap)
I have the BW with 2:1 I believe. Unknown hours on it. Probably worth going through it.
Spin the engine over with the injector pump fuel stop on . If it sounds even on turning it over on starter , leave it alone , if it sound irregular one or more pistons are low compression, or valve leakage . The only real issue with these engines was valve stem seals getting hard with age . Oil pressure should be 40 psi at 1200 rpm above 15 psi at idle . If on start up the smoke is blue rebuild head , do not get head skimmed, never any course to , have checked for cracks ,but not usually a problem. Injection pump should be a minimec, if not please tell me what makes fitted cav or simms on older engines . BW reduction ,make sure oil cooler is clean ,oil and coolant sides. Other than theses points to check if all good , leave alone . It won't let you down . Carry spare as you should , filters , belts , oil, coolant , raw water impellers . If it was me , a head jacket decode set as well then you covered for anything .
@@cartertanya1258 I’ll give it a spin like you suggest. It is the minimec pump on this one.
I didn’t understand the water jacket decode? Could you expand on that?
Thanks!!
@@cartertanya1258 oh, and oil pressure has been good when it was last running.
Sorry didn't check spell check before sending message . Head gasket decoke set , all gaskets and seals from head up
Check out the Duracell Project for Carbon Chain Plates. ruclips.net/video/VqMgOQOxyrw/видео.html
That is an amazing project! I’ve been watching it from the start :)
Hi John! Some quetions about the shed build.. what is your space around the boat, like how wide is the boat compared to the shed? How tall is the shed above deck level? What are your thoughts here? I am trying to design my own shed for a similar project!
The shed is 21’ wide and 21’ tall at the peak and this gives me just about 6’ of head height at the edges of the deck. The beams are spaced at 48” and all wrapped in 7mil shrink wrap.
Let me know how I can help with your fuel tanks. This is my area of expertise. I looked for an email address but was unable to find one to reach out.
Hi Tim! Thank you for that offer. I added my email to the video description (maybe half way down). Just in case, feel free to reach out to livingforsail@gmail.com.
Thanks again for reaching out! 🙏👍🙌
Is she for sale on ebay?
🤔
😒Somone removed the marble countertops ....
I know. It’s unfortunate… I am considering installing new ones when I rebuild the galley. 👍
@@livingforsail They have really thins stuff these days - you can get the classic look with a fraction of the weight - Looking forward to your series...
@@sailingsomeday5975 I’ll look into that. Real marble veneers over another substrate?
@@sailingsomeday5975 … and thanks for watching and sending in your input! 🙌
LiFePo4 is the go. They're safe and not very expensive these days, particularly if you DIY.
Before committing to removing all propane, perhaps buy a portable induction cooktop (they're cheap) and see how it goes in terms of energy consumption.
Yeah, that sounds like a good approach. I’ll do a bit of testing before I commit to anything.