Hi Paul. I shoot most of my wildlife images in Aperture Priority mode with ISO set to Auto (as you suggested in a previous video) which allows me to get away with the majority of errors. Setting up like this allows me to concentrate on the actual image and has definitely upped my keeper rate. As an old git who shot with film, I really appreciate the amount of data that a RAW file holds and processing files in Lightroom is so forgiving, and duffers like me can achieve near perfect exposure a lot more often. Really enjoyed the video Paul. It's great that pro's like you share knowledge with us, so a huge thanks from me !
Hi Tim. It really feels worthwhile when I get appreciative comments like yours. AV with auto ISO can be really good. I often use where the subject may move between light and shade, particularly when light is softer.
I recently discovered on my Canon 80D a mode called Exposure Simulation in Live View. Basically it makes the LCD screen image react visually to any change in exposure settings. As well the histogram can be displayed on the screen. I tried it out today when photographing a small waterfall. It was a great help in setting exposure.
@@PaulMiguelPhotography Paul here is the link to a video showing how to enable this feature on the 80D, not sure if your model has this. ruclips.net/video/9mPbhq059N4/видео.html He demonstrates this feature when his camera is on Manual mode. If it is on any other mode that has an Auto function then the Live View Simulation doesn't show any change as the Auto will compensate. I find combining this with Histogram displayed on the view screen image works the best. Paul have you ever used an Incident Meter in the field when the lighting is consistent as in overcast? I have an old Sekonic L398 Studio Deluxe Incident Meter that I will start taking out on the field to experiment with.
Thanks for the tutorial, I seem to struggle with exposure, my pics often come out too dark. I shoot with a 7D and a 400mm lens both Canon. Mostly I am using AV with auto ISO and my interest is wildlife. Thanks for all the tips and video's.
Very much appreciate that Don. Glad it helped in some way. Most of this video is appropriate whatever camera you shoot with, which is what I always aim for.
I also use Auto ISO for wildlife. So many other variables, I let the camera do the work for me here. I use a Canon 5D MkIII so I dont have many issues with noise at a high ISO. Good advic as always Paul
Great video Paul, you went into great detail. Speaking personally I found the exposure with wildlife the hardest to get my head round, much harder than with landscape where you can go as low as you want with shutter speed. I was terrified of upping my ISO, but now I usually have it on auto, which I find generally gives me sharper images.
Thanks as always Mark. Yeah, exposure is difficult with wildlife. I've been pretty stubborn when it comes to auto options.. but now I use Auto ISO as one of my techniques in certain situations.
Nice video. Personally, I find ISO is the hardest part of photography to understand completely. Whereas shutter speed and aperture contol the exposure of an image, ISO contols how light or dark that image will be. The ISO gain/amplification of the sensor signal is applied after the camera has made the exposure. So ISO actually controls brightness and not exposure. Maybe it's just me, but I never actually think of the ISO process when I'm taking a shot.
Thanks Pete. That all sounds very technical to me! There's so much more to go into in depth - and ISO is certainly one of them. thanks for taking the time to comment.
Many aspiring photographers have problems discerning when and how much to add or subtract exposure from the Evaluative/Matrix recommendation. I prefer to eliminate as many variables as I can, choosing not to use Matrix/Evaluative in situations where experience has shown the readings to be erroneous, inconsistent or in doubt. Such as when there is a great deal of tones like sunlit areas and deep shadows. Evaluative/Matrix works well as long as the subject is not small in size and/or of very different tonal value relative to the background, and in low contrast lighting. I prefer the Spot Pattern as there is never a deviation in the method, no second guessing what built in camera algorithms are doing, subject size to background is irrelevant, etc. The Spot pattern does one thing, it renders whatever is in the pattern as a midtone value, and it does it accurately and consistently. I know exactly what is in the pattern, and how it reacts every time I depress the shutter. Most times I am in Manual Mode. However, I will use Av in conjunction with AEL in fluctuating light…along with the Spot pattern spot reading a white subject like an egret and to get a perfect exposure you'll need to open up 2 to 2.5 stops. Use the following tonal scale on a Spot metered area. If you spot meter a total black area(no detail) close down 3 stops...spot read a black area with details(like a bears fur) close down 2-2.5 stops...spot read a dark grey area close down 1-1.5 stops... spot read a midtone grey area(patch of grass) no compensation needed. Spot read a light grey area add 1-1.5 stops....spot read a white with details (white Egrets feathers) open up 2-2.5 stops...pot read a totally white(with no,detal )area open up 3 stops. Agin your spot meter does one thing renders anything it reads to one thing ...A MIDTONE ...knowing this allows you to correctly compensate for a perfect exposure every time.
LOL! Don't get too obsessed with the whites Philip. I got too hung up on them. I sometimes allow the exposure to just.. just blow out the highlights. Sometimes.
ISO does NOT influence the amount of light coming on to the sensor! It only determines amplification AFTER exposure! The more ISO the more the frame is underexposed and therfore the more noisy and the more that noise is amplified!
Very useful again... Liked. 👍
Hi Paul. I shoot most of my wildlife images in Aperture Priority mode with ISO set to Auto (as you suggested in a previous video) which allows me to get away with the majority of errors. Setting up like this allows me to concentrate on the actual image and has definitely upped my keeper rate. As an old git who shot with film, I really appreciate the amount of data that a RAW file holds and processing files in Lightroom is so forgiving, and duffers like me can achieve near perfect exposure a lot more often. Really enjoyed the video Paul. It's great that pro's like you share knowledge with us, so a huge thanks from me !
Hi Tim. It really feels worthwhile when I get appreciative comments like yours. AV with auto ISO can be really good. I often use where the subject may move between light and shade, particularly when light is softer.
I just look at ISO as sensor sensitivity, the equivalent to ASA in the days of film. A measure of film sensitivity or speed. Works for me.
I recently discovered on my Canon 80D a mode called Exposure Simulation in Live View. Basically it makes the LCD screen image react visually to any change in exposure settings. As well the histogram can be displayed on the screen. I tried it out today when photographing a small waterfall. It was a great help in setting exposure.
Hey, that sounds brilliant. Didn't know about that..
@@PaulMiguelPhotography Paul here is the link to a video showing how to enable this feature on the 80D, not sure if your model has this.
ruclips.net/video/9mPbhq059N4/видео.html
He demonstrates this feature when his camera is on Manual mode. If it is on any other mode that has an Auto function then the Live View Simulation doesn't show any change as the Auto will compensate. I find combining this with Histogram displayed on the view screen image works the best.
Paul have you ever used an Incident Meter in the field when the lighting is consistent as in overcast? I have an old Sekonic L398 Studio Deluxe Incident Meter that I will start taking out on the field to experiment with.
Great tutorial
Thank you
Thanks for the tutorial, I seem to struggle with exposure, my pics often come out too dark. I shoot with a 7D and a 400mm lens both Canon. Mostly I am using AV with auto ISO and my interest is wildlife. Thanks for all the tips and video's.
Great vlog. I have a Nikon D 5100. Just a beginner. I never new what the blinking was.
Very much appreciate that Don. Glad it helped in some way. Most of this video is appropriate whatever camera you shoot with, which is what I always aim for.
I also use Auto ISO for wildlife. So many other variables, I let the camera do the work for me here. I use a Canon 5D MkIII so I dont have many issues with noise at a high ISO. Good advic as always Paul
Another great video Paul. lots or detail and explained things very clearly. Thanks
Cheers Cameron. Tricky subject for sure - I had to be really careful, particularly with the histogram bit.
Great video Paul, you went into great detail. Speaking personally I found the exposure with wildlife the hardest to get my head round, much harder than with landscape where you can go as low as you want with shutter speed. I was terrified of upping my ISO, but now I usually have it on auto, which I find generally gives me sharper images.
Thanks as always Mark. Yeah, exposure is difficult with wildlife. I've been pretty stubborn when it comes to auto options.. but now I use Auto ISO as one of my techniques in certain situations.
Great video...i've always struggled with blow outs on white birds. This was really helpful.
Worthwhile to know it helped you out. Thanks Darren.
Another great video Paul very well explained always enjoy thanks John
Glad you found it clear and helpful. Thank you very much
Really great video. Very nicely explained and makes everything seem very easy. Thanks Paul
Great to get that feedback. This video took me ages to make!
I can imagine
Great video
Thank you.
Thanks paul. Just getting going with the Canon 7D Mk 2. Love to see your video's.
That's lovely to hear, thanks Lee. Good luck with your photography - 7D Mk 2 is a good choice for wildlife.
Always nice, very nice video, Paul. I wait next your tutorial it is the best tips.👍 Thank!
Thank you! Very glad you like these videos.
Hi! Paul, Nice video! Thank!
Dommage qu il n y ai pas la possibilite d une traduction en francais,sinon super video d explication merci paul
Nice video. Personally, I find ISO is the hardest part of photography to understand completely. Whereas shutter speed and aperture contol the exposure of an image, ISO contols how light or dark that image will be. The ISO gain/amplification of the sensor signal is applied after the camera has made the exposure. So ISO actually controls brightness and not exposure. Maybe it's just me, but I never actually think of the ISO process when I'm taking a shot.
Thanks Pete. That all sounds very technical to me! There's so much more to go into in depth - and ISO is certainly one of them. thanks for taking the time to comment.
good video paul
Thanks very much Doug.
vwey good paul
Thanks Roy.
Nice vid love from Denmark !
Many thanks!
Any views on SPOT metering to the bird? I have had some success with this mode...any downsides? Post-processing seems to bring all into balance.
I've used it in the past but I don't now. The problem is if you don't keep the spot on the bird, so flight photography is difficult for example
@@PaulMiguelPhotography thanks, I completely understand. I have only successfully used it when the bird was relatively still.
Nice video. What are your pictures sharp !
Cheers Philippe!
Do you take your lenscoat off after it's been rained on?
Hi ! Didn't get what u said about shooting white subjects? Can u explain here please , tks
Many aspiring photographers have problems discerning when and how much to add or subtract exposure from the Evaluative/Matrix recommendation. I prefer to eliminate as many variables as I can, choosing not to use Matrix/Evaluative in situations where experience has shown the readings to be erroneous, inconsistent or in doubt. Such as when there is a great deal of tones like sunlit areas and deep shadows. Evaluative/Matrix works well as long as the subject is not small in size and/or of very different tonal value relative to the background, and in low contrast lighting. I prefer the Spot Pattern as there is never a deviation in the method, no second guessing what built in camera algorithms are doing, subject size to background is irrelevant, etc. The Spot pattern does one thing, it renders whatever is in the pattern as a midtone value, and it does it accurately and consistently. I know exactly what is in the pattern, and how it reacts every time I depress the shutter. Most times I am in Manual Mode. However, I will use Av in conjunction with AEL in fluctuating light…along with the Spot pattern spot reading a white subject like an egret and to get a perfect exposure you'll need to open up 2 to 2.5 stops.
Use the following tonal scale on a Spot metered area.
If you spot meter a total black area(no detail) close down 3 stops...spot read a black area with details(like a bears fur) close down 2-2.5 stops...spot read a dark grey area close down 1-1.5 stops... spot read a midtone grey area(patch of grass) no compensation needed. Spot read a light grey area add 1-1.5 stops....spot read a white with details (white Egrets feathers) open up 2-2.5 stops...pot read a totally white(with no,detal )area open up 3 stops.
Agin your spot meter does one thing renders anything it reads to one thing ...A MIDTONE ...knowing this allows you to correctly compensate for a perfect exposure every time.
Always found coots really difficult to photograph myself
Yes they can be. So much contrast.
should have watched this before i went out this morning lol
LOL! Don't get too obsessed with the whites Philip. I got too hung up on them. I sometimes allow the exposure to just.. just blow out the highlights. Sometimes.
ISO does NOT influence the amount of light coming on to the sensor! It only determines amplification AFTER exposure!
The more ISO the more the frame is underexposed and therfore the more noisy and the more that noise is amplified!
I have a better understanding of this now. Thanks for sharing.