I am an old man who trained as a mechanic in Adelaide in the 1970's. Part of training was to visit the Holden plant at Woodville. They fully dipped and galvanised the car bodies before assembly. I also worked at the Elizabeth factory in the 1990's and the paint plant was state of the art. They also dipped and galvanised. You wanna remove all of that for some schmuck in a panel shop to try and replace? It's called patina, Lady.
Great history you have. The outside panels are already sabotaged with bodywork and primer. That's not patina, in my book. But you're right... the inside is.
A decent sand blaster won’t warp panels and they only blast 4 to 5 inches from edges to be safe and you can request that to be sure of no warpage then you can sand the rest of the paint to metal ….ok Stacy 👍👍👍👍
My windscreen was removed using a thing that looks like an iron, you run it along the metal and it heats up the sealant until it's soft enough to pull the screen out. Both windows out, no cracking!
Hey did I see you do that on one of your vids? Thanks for the tip... that's really worth a try. The rear window in the tonner cab might be different to your statesman though... it has a rubber seal rather than sealant goop.
Hi, yeah you did but it was Paul my restorer doing that part, my job was to clean that sealant goop afterwards! Always interesting to see others dealing with the same problems, we all have the same goals and each going about achieving those goals in slightly different ways 👍
Hi Stacey - I’m picking up my Tonner project tomorrow! In my experience with other restorations, rust is like an iceberg - you only see 1/4 of what really there. The cowl/ plenum is notorious for rusting and that rust stained area on the firewall has me rather nervous. My personal rule is no matter how good it looks, assume it’s a bogged up rusty mess, and then strip it back to prove its not. There’s not a good reason why there would big in the roof either… Personally, I wouldn’t let the “original paint” direct my restoration. Fix it once, fix it right.
I would avoid sand blasting: it can distort the panels, and it's impossible to remove all the sand, which will keep appearing over time. I would not consider acid dip, for the same reason, I have had great success with phosphoric acid (used in some fizzy drinks - so relatively harmless). It can be applied by brush, and agitated, then washed off with water. I treated a very rusty door skin with phosphoric acid, scrubbing by hand, and completely eradicated all the rust, leaving a surface perfect to accept primer. You could try it in a small area, to see what you think of the results, and with no harm to the surroundings.
See also SYLVESTERCUSTOMS - DO NOT SAND BLAST, where he discusses with a car restorer why he wishes he had not blasted his car (from about 4 minutes in, he discusses his regrets). His well meaning attempts to eradicate rust have created an enormous amount of unnecessary remedial work.
@@staceonwheels SYLVESTERCUSTOMS also has a video on "The least gruesome way to remove rust" - using phosphoric acid. I think if you watch it you might be convinced. Incidentally, you don't need to use one of the proprietary solutions - straight Phosphoric acid, washed off with water, and dried, is just as effective.
I would definitely remove screen and cowel to treat/ repair cowel in those corners, repair cowel or replace, the after market ones are a nice fit with minimal work. Doing mates tonner look great before blasting only visable repair needed was rear bottom corner, ended up new floor sections,new sills,repair to roof corner, repair rear corners and new cowel
I think the consensus is with you, that I should remove the cowl and treat it and the plenum properly for the rust I can't see. There aren't any holes or major rust that is visible so I'm hopeful I can just keep them both and patch them up with fresh metal where needed. Thank you for adding your experience!
Hi stacei think you have found the cleanest tonner in the country.sand blasting is a major undertaking with never ending sand seeping from it cavities. Rust converter .fish oil and paint will preserve the cab as is proven due to the factory rustproofing. You can get small hand sand blasters . A good clean and treat of that cab it will last another 50 yrs.
I do feel lucky with this one Shane! Thanks for the advice... I have decided definitely not to sand blast after all these great comments. Feeling more confident in rust converter and fish oil, and just minor repairs where it'spitted.
Don't sand blast Stacey,only along the edges around the window and floor pan ,wire wheel it ,It's hard to say but it looks like a realy good cab,And watch out for so called experts, Sand blasting creates heat and warps panels ,And makes a mess fish oil is good ,Keep up the good work
That sounds promising that maybe I can just blast the areas that have some rust. It is a good cab and it's what I can't see that's the problem I guess. Thanks!
I didn't sand blast but I did a full bare metal job and removed the quarters only of the plenum, having said that in hindsight it would have been less work to just pull the plenum out, waster blasting would be great if its a reasonable price and someone will come to you.
Gday, not sure about sand blasting, I’d be more inclined to look into acid dip, at least there’s no sand or media to try and clean out of the small corners and hard to get to areas, there’s plenty of people out there that’s done these restoration that have more idea then I have, great video Stace, cheers
Hi again Matty, you're the second one to suggest acid, so I will def look into it if I decide to do tge whole cab... still pondering all the great suggestions.
Hi Stace, I can say from experience, unless you have an endless source of cash dont go the sandblasting. I've just finished my HX ute and i spent 30k. I did the body work and paint myself. Think about what you want to do with it when its finished. Chassis? Intererior? Engine? Trans, It all adds up!!!
Yeah it will add up, you're right. Another reason for not rushing this decision. But the chassis is solid and I will do everything I can on her. That's why I got her. But, I am spending on the engine!
Hi Stace another great video, The windscreen can hide alot, you can get people to remove it for you at home and take the old one away if it brakes or if you want to put a new one in, so you can inspect Trixie. She Is 40+ and in good condition so it will be a tuff decision. Nelliel has made replacing the plenum a must for me! Sorry I could be more help
@@staceonwheels soda blasting etc dosnt blow out rust pits properly it only takes off paint and only surface rust from what I’ve seen your going about things the right way looking at the right areas that need attention and searching and asking advice when unsure keep up the great work Stacy EMPRESSIVE 👍👍👍👍👍
Garnet blasting or acid dipping are the choices I would go with Stacy ok 👍👍👍👍 that will reveal all the week places of metal that need attention From what I can see you have a awesome car a strong foundation for a restoration I look forward to your next episode 👍👍👍👍👍
@@staceonwheels thankyou I appreciate that emmensely Stacy just keep going if not sure about things keep asking questions then make a decision remember knowledge is power 👍👍👍👍👍
Hi Stacey, I have a 73 HQ one tonner that looks very similar to yours even colour white. You do know (now) that once you start a project like this you get sucked in to a never ending journey . I finished to my satisfaction the interior and under the bonnet . I then sent it to be painted with strict instructions to mask up the interior and under the bonnet . Unfortunately that did not happen and I am at present redoing the interior, cleaning and as water got into the cab, redoing the floor . This involves removing old sound deadener drying everything and fitting new sound/heat protection. When I complained about overspray etc I was told I had done everything wrong and should have removed the cab and had it sandblasted and moved on from there. So, as you have the cab off and there are a few suspicious areas I would be off to the sand blaster. The journey continues. I did get annoyed when the painter removed the ID plates as it now does not look Original.
I'd spray a phosphor treatment into the nooks & crannies. ferric oxide becomes ferric phosphate. Inert. Then do your cavity wax/fish oil thing. KBS (AUS version of POR 15) on the floors, yes.... but only after it's treated as per the book KBS gives you. Nice survivor you have there.
Thamks, yeah it's in great condition. Your suggestion is what I wanted to hear... that the existing surface rust can just be converted then fish oiled. But I understand that phosphoric acid still has to be washed off with water... have you done this process yourself?
I'd suggest removing both windscreens, unpick the cowl the sill panels if they are rusty and get it blasted. don't waste your time wirewheeling you won't remove all the rust. get the blasters to spray a 2 pac epoxy primer over the blasted surface. do not use etch primer. etch primer is porus, epoxy is a sealer and you can put body filler straight over the top sealing the metal underneath.
I still in the process of a vc commodore rebuild. With the bracing all i did was spray rust converter into it and blee it out with air and then sprayed rust preventer or an isolater and floor i did in stone guard and there is better stuff the fish oil it stinks my suggestion do research it pays in the end
That sounds practical, thanks. I'm using Fishoilene by Wattyl Rustkill and it has no smell, which is great. And aerosol for control, and it sets up quite firm so not runny either. VC Commodore is a nice early one!
@@staceonwheels yep i have it for bout 13 yrs. But i noticed on the front cowl where the pitting was now this is id just lay some metal mend over it, it doesnt soak up moisture saves a bit of time cutting and welding and also if its not going in a top coat any time soon id go 2pak epoxy sealer will keep out moisture for longer then basic primer and etch will
@@staceonwheels yep etch is only good for a short period of time but if its a keep like mine id go the 2 pak route its more expensive but worth it in the long run but if you sand blast it pretty sure most of them put a 2k sealer on anyway
Doubt I'll be sand bladting now, with what I've learned from comments on the video. But epoxy is what I planned all along, after a rust treatment, likely phosphoric acid. We'll see, but I do appreciate there are a few different ways to go about our projects. Fun, hey?
My back panel is the same as yours, the vinyl cover kept that in great condition. My floor had slight scale on it and i used a wire wheel on that and then a brush on of rust converter, then primer. Feels solid. I welded in some holes that had developed under the cowl and that’s now done and again, rust converter to preserve the metal as there was some still around the drain hole. Firewall, rust converter and wire wheel as required. There’s loads of metal left even on really rusty bits. Anywhere else i cant get to i will fish oil and spray rust converter. I have yet to take my cab off to check the chassis underneath, next step i think. You’re doing great.
Thanks again Spyder, great to hear another cab in as good condition as mine. Sounds like rust converter could work as it's pretty much all surface rust. The little bits on the cowl I can easily cut out and weld in new metal. Fish oil gets a great rap it seems.
@@staceonwheels Yeah and this is from a guy I know who is an ex panel beater/sprayer of many years. He's given me some great tips, he told me how great fish oil is. I used to think it would just be an oily mess but apparently it hardens into a rock solid film over everything, if rust can't get air it can't grow. I've yet to look at the underside of my roof so fingers crossed I don't find too many surprises there!
@@staceonwheels The benefit your way is that you should have no problem finding all the spot welds, mine had congealed into rusty layers in the corners and it was impossible to find those. In the end I ran a grinder through some of it so I could seperate it and then by plucking up the metal with a screwdriver I could find one when it held on to the layer underneath. Yours should be a walk in the park. I used a spot weld cutter on mine rather than a drill bit, it really did a great job, messy, as it creates loads of chewed metal but that’s all.
G’day Stacey, Personally I’d blast the cab, but don’t use sand find a blaster who uses a water dissolvable media … I sandblasted my HD sedan about five years ago and I’m still finding sand (long term project). As with the restoration, your going to go a 308 so therefore you may as well give trixie a flash paint job. Because you are doing a tonner, this would be the best time to learn how to paint and panel, as you’ve only got a small area to do for example compared to a sedan. Take a leap of faith and give it a go at painting her yourself. With the internal structure of your roof you can purchase a long skinny nozzle style spray gun to get right into it with rust converter. I hope this helps you with your decision, I definitely don’t want to seem rude or anything like that. All the best, cheers mouse
Hey I do plan on painting her! I want to learn and I suspect her original Palais White would be easy enough. Thanks for the tip about getting rust converter into the nooks and krannies.
Sandblasting blows out weak thin parts of rusted metalabd rusted pits in metal its better to blast and definately split plenum as corners are definately trouble areas that need to be sealed properly from future moisture. Blasting reveals alot that the eye cant see abd ensures a better job for longevity of the vehicle ... Re seam seal all areas and treat cavities with fish oil or cavity wax epoxy prime baremetal after blasting inside and out to protect baremetal from rust Asap as moisture in air causes rust imediately after cars blasted phosphoroys acid helps coat and seak baremetal before epoxy primer ...just a little advice hope it helps respectfully Dino queensland australia 🇦🇺 👍👍👍👍👍🤗🤗🤗🤗✊✊✊✊✊
Awesome info, Dino, thanks. What's your experience/knowledge with blasting (with any media) on micro stretching of the panels? I've heard this from a few places, that just the blasting action - and not just heat - can do this. And yeah - phosphoric acid and fish oil I think will be my go-to treatment after the paint and rust is removed. I plan to do the epoxy primer myself, but will practice all this on some old panels first. Thanks for taking the time to share all those tips - much appreciated.
@@staceonwheels hi Stacy it’s expressive your undoing such a big task I’m a qualified panel beater automotive spray painter in the automotive industry for 36 yrs. I specialised in the full restoration of classic American 🇺🇸 and Australian 🇦🇺muscle cars to show quality and performance upgrades and customising I only give great information and will be watching your progress as I’ve subscribed to your channel I’m happy to answer any questions you may have ok 👍 👍👍👍
Likely I will have questions Dino. I really appreciate your support. I will never profess to know what I'm doing, but I love learning and love working on this tonner - it's therapy. People like you, as you can tell from other comments, are inspiring my journey with this! If you're happy to take some questions from me, please feel welcomed to email staceonwheels@gmail.com to connect a bit more easily. Or happy to keep it here on the channel.
@@staceonwheels a experience blaster will not warp panels just get it blasted 4. 5. 6 inches from edges if your not comfortable getting it fully blasted But distortion mainly accuses on larger areas like sedan roofs large rear quarter panels etc utes are quite small so I can safely say you won’t have problems with distortion just research a garnet blaster with years of experience and who is recommended buy other classic car restoration businesses
I am an old man who trained as a mechanic in Adelaide in the 1970's. Part of training was to visit the Holden plant at Woodville. They fully dipped and galvanised the car bodies before assembly. I also worked at the Elizabeth factory in the 1990's and the paint plant was state of the art. They also dipped and galvanised.
You wanna remove all of that for some schmuck in a panel shop to try and replace?
It's called patina, Lady.
Great history you have. The outside panels are already sabotaged with bodywork and primer. That's not patina, in my book. But you're right... the inside is.
A decent sand blaster won’t warp panels and they only blast 4 to 5 inches from edges to be safe and you can request that to be sure of no warpage then you can sand the rest of the paint to metal ….ok Stacy 👍👍👍👍
My windscreen was removed using a thing that looks like an iron, you run it along the metal and it heats up the sealant until it's soft enough to pull the screen out. Both windows out, no cracking!
Hey did I see you do that on one of your vids? Thanks for the tip... that's really worth a try. The rear window in the tonner cab might be different to your statesman though... it has a rubber seal rather than sealant goop.
Hi, yeah you did but it was Paul my restorer doing that part, my job was to clean that sealant goop afterwards! Always interesting to see others dealing with the same problems, we all have the same goals and each going about achieving those goals in slightly different ways 👍
And it's such a fortunate thing we can connect and learn from each other!
Hi Stacey - I’m picking up my Tonner project tomorrow! In my experience with other restorations, rust is like an iceberg - you only see 1/4 of what really there. The cowl/ plenum is notorious for rusting and that rust stained area on the firewall has me rather nervous. My personal rule is no matter how good it looks, assume it’s a bogged up rusty mess, and then strip it back to prove its not. There’s not a good reason why there would big in the roof either…
Personally, I wouldn’t let the “original paint” direct my restoration. Fix it once, fix it right.
Tough love, hey? 🤣
So much to think about after this video... but I'm so glad for all comments and yours too. Enjoy your tonner!!!
@@staceonwheels Yeah, sorry! lol
That cab really is in great condition for its age.
Feel so lucky about that. She likely lived in western NSW and I think someone cared about her.
I would avoid sand blasting: it can distort the panels, and it's impossible to remove all the sand, which will keep appearing over time. I would not consider acid dip, for the same reason,
I have had great success with phosphoric acid (used in some fizzy drinks - so relatively harmless). It can be applied by brush, and agitated, then washed off with water.
I treated a very rusty door skin with phosphoric acid, scrubbing by hand, and completely eradicated all the rust, leaving a surface perfect to accept primer. You could try it in a small area, to see what you think of the results, and with no harm to the surroundings.
See also SYLVESTERCUSTOMS - DO NOT SAND BLAST, where he discusses with a car restorer why he wishes he had not blasted his car (from about 4 minutes in, he discusses his regrets).
His well meaning attempts to eradicate rust have created an enormous amount of unnecessary remedial work.
Well that's great to hear. So far this seems the concensus, not to sand blast. Great to learn about more rust treatment options. Thank you!
@@staceonwheels SYLVESTERCUSTOMS also has a video on "The least gruesome way to remove rust" - using phosphoric acid. I think if you watch it you might be convinced.
Incidentally, you don't need to use one of the proprietary solutions - straight Phosphoric acid, washed off with water, and dried, is just as effective.
Brilliant, you're a gem.
I subscribed to his channel and watched those vids... great stuff! Thanks again... this is so far my favourite way to proceed.
Ps inside plenum sand blast and under the cowl ,Use yellow paint or any colour for a gide coat
Guide coat for what exactly, Grant? Only seen the black stuff.
What about the acid dipping? It will dissolve all hidden rust. No messy sand. Great Chanel. Thanks
Never new about acid dipping. I'll investigate what might be local. Thank you!!
I would definitely remove screen and cowel to treat/ repair cowel in those corners, repair cowel or replace, the after market ones are a nice fit with minimal work. Doing mates tonner look great before blasting only visable repair needed was rear bottom corner, ended up new floor sections,new sills,repair to roof corner, repair rear corners and new cowel
I think the consensus is with you, that I should remove the cowl and treat it and the plenum properly for the rust I can't see. There aren't any holes or major rust that is visible so I'm hopeful I can just keep them both and patch them up with fresh metal where needed. Thank you for adding your experience!
Hi stacei think you have found the cleanest tonner in the country.sand blasting is a major undertaking with never ending sand seeping from it cavities. Rust converter .fish oil and paint will preserve the cab as is proven due to the factory rustproofing.
You can get small hand sand blasters .
A good clean and treat of that cab it will last another 50 yrs.
I do feel lucky with this one Shane! Thanks for the advice... I have decided definitely not to sand blast after all these great comments. Feeling more confident in rust converter and fish oil, and just minor repairs where it'spitted.
Don't sand blast Stacey,only along the edges around the window and floor pan ,wire wheel it ,It's hard to say but it looks like a realy good cab,And watch out for so called experts, Sand blasting creates heat and warps panels ,And makes a mess fish oil is good ,Keep up the good work
That sounds promising that maybe I can just blast the areas that have some rust. It is a good cab and it's what I can't see that's the problem I guess. Thanks!
Totally agree. Use stripper wheels etc. Avoid panel warpage. A lot better job in the end
I didn't sand blast but I did a full bare metal job and removed the quarters only of the plenum, having said that in hindsight it would have been less work to just pull the plenum out, waster blasting would be great if its a reasonable price and someone will come to you.
Water blasting sounds good, no residue sand, but also sounds counter-intuitive to remove rust! Thank you for another option to explore.
Gday, not sure about sand blasting, I’d be more inclined to look into acid dip, at least there’s no sand or media to try and clean out of the small corners and hard to get to areas, there’s plenty of people out there that’s done these restoration that have more idea then I have, great video Stace, cheers
Hi again Matty, you're the second one to suggest acid, so I will def look into it if I decide to do tge whole cab... still pondering all the great suggestions.
Hi Stace, I can say from experience, unless you have an endless source of cash dont go the sandblasting. I've just finished my HX ute and i spent 30k. I did the body work and paint myself. Think about what you want to do with it when its finished. Chassis? Intererior? Engine? Trans, It all adds up!!!
Yeah it will add up, you're right. Another reason for not rushing this decision. But the chassis is solid and I will do everything I can on her. That's why I got her. But, I am spending on the engine!
Hi Stace another great video, The windscreen can hide alot, you can get people to remove it for you at home and take the old one away if it brakes or if you want to put a new one in, so you can inspect Trixie. She Is 40+ and in good condition so it will be a tuff decision. Nelliel has made replacing the plenum a must for me! Sorry I could be more help
Thanks Matthew for confirming about removing the windscreen, I feel certain about that now. Always great to see your comments!
No one uses sand when blasting as it causes silicosis blasters use various grades of garnet to control heat and warpage Stacy 👍👍👍👍
I've heard of water blasting too, or blasting with a media that is water soluble and dissolves.
@@staceonwheels soda blasting etc dosnt blow out rust pits properly it only takes off paint and only surface rust from what I’ve seen your going about things the right way looking at the right areas that need attention and searching and asking advice when unsure keep up the great work Stacy EMPRESSIVE 👍👍👍👍👍
I'm happy to have you along for the journey!
Garnet blasting or acid dipping are the choices I would go with Stacy ok 👍👍👍👍 that will reveal all the week places of metal that need attention From what I can see you have a awesome car a strong foundation for a restoration I look forward to your next episode 👍👍👍👍👍
@@staceonwheels thankyou I appreciate that emmensely Stacy just keep going if not sure about things keep asking questions then make a decision remember knowledge is power 👍👍👍👍👍
Hi Stacey, I have a 73 HQ one tonner that looks very similar to yours even colour white. You do know (now) that once you start a project like this you get sucked in to a never ending journey . I finished to my satisfaction the interior and under the bonnet . I then sent it to be painted with strict instructions to mask up the interior and under the bonnet . Unfortunately that did not happen and I am at present redoing the interior, cleaning and as water got into the cab, redoing the floor . This involves removing old sound deadener drying everything and fitting new sound/heat protection. When I complained about overspray etc I was told I had done everything wrong and should have removed the cab and had it sandblasted and moved on from there. So, as you have the cab off and there are a few suspicious areas I would be off to the sand blaster. The journey continues. I did get annoyed when the painter removed the ID plates as it now does not look Original.
What a saga! Rework is such a PITA. A hard lesson to learn about getting it sand blasted. Thanks for sharing, you've really got me thinking.
I'd spray a phosphor treatment into the nooks & crannies. ferric oxide becomes ferric phosphate. Inert. Then do your cavity wax/fish oil thing. KBS (AUS version of POR 15) on the floors, yes.... but only after it's treated as per the book KBS gives you. Nice survivor you have there.
Thamks, yeah it's in great condition. Your suggestion is what I wanted to hear... that the existing surface rust can just be converted then fish oiled. But I understand that phosphoric acid still has to be washed off with water... have you done this process yourself?
@@staceonwheels ranex. Bunnings sells it
Use stripper wheels etc. Avoid panel warpage. A lot better job in the end
Brilliant. I've decided against blasting for sure now. And already started with the stripper disc on my grinder. Easy peasy.
I'd suggest removing both windscreens, unpick the cowl the sill panels if they are rusty and get it blasted. don't waste your time wirewheeling you won't remove all the rust. get the blasters to spray a 2 pac epoxy primer over the blasted surface. do not use etch primer. etch primer is porus, epoxy is a sealer and you can put body filler straight over the top sealing the metal underneath.
I do plan on using an epoxy primer, as you suggest. And yeah, definitely removing the glass! Thank you for sharing your thoughts 😁
I still in the process of a vc commodore rebuild. With the bracing all i did was spray rust converter into it and blee it out with air and then sprayed rust preventer or an isolater and floor i did in stone guard and there is better stuff the fish oil it stinks my suggestion do research it pays in the end
That sounds practical, thanks. I'm using Fishoilene by Wattyl Rustkill and it has no smell, which is great. And aerosol for control, and it sets up quite firm so not runny either. VC Commodore is a nice early one!
@@staceonwheels yep i have it for bout 13 yrs. But i noticed on the front cowl where the pitting was now this is id just lay some metal mend over it, it doesnt soak up moisture saves a bit of time cutting and welding and also if its not going in a top coat any time soon id go 2pak epoxy sealer will keep out moisture for longer then basic primer and etch will
Epoxy definitely. The etch primer on Trixie is the reason the cowl is rusting through again, I reckon.
@@staceonwheels yep etch is only good for a short period of time but if its a keep like mine id go the 2 pak route its more expensive but worth it in the long run but if you sand blast it pretty sure most of them put a 2k sealer on anyway
Doubt I'll be sand bladting now, with what I've learned from comments on the video. But epoxy is what I planned all along, after a rust treatment, likely phosphoric acid. We'll see, but I do appreciate there are a few different ways to go about our projects. Fun, hey?
My back panel is the same as yours, the vinyl cover kept that in great condition. My floor had slight scale on it and i used a wire wheel on that and then a brush on of rust converter, then primer. Feels solid. I welded in some holes that had developed under the cowl and that’s now done and again, rust converter to preserve the metal as there was some still around the drain hole. Firewall, rust converter and wire wheel as required. There’s loads of metal left even on really rusty bits. Anywhere else i cant get to i will fish oil and spray rust converter. I have yet to take my cab off to check the chassis underneath, next step i think. You’re doing great.
Thanks again Spyder, great to hear another cab in as good condition as mine. Sounds like rust converter could work as it's pretty much all surface rust. The little bits on the cowl I can easily cut out and weld in new metal. Fish oil gets a great rap it seems.
@@staceonwheels Yeah and this is from a guy I know who is an ex panel beater/sprayer of many years. He's given me some great tips, he told me how great fish oil is. I used to think it would just be an oily mess but apparently it hardens into a rock solid film over everything, if rust can't get air it can't grow. I've yet to look at the underside of my roof so fingers crossed I don't find too many surprises there!
That does sound awesome, and yeah where I have sprayed it so far it does seems to set. Promising!
Ah thanks for that. I will get the windscreen out and make sure all the rust is fixed.
@@staceonwheels The benefit your way is that you should have no problem finding all the spot welds, mine had congealed into rusty layers in the corners and it was impossible to find those. In the end I ran a grinder through some of it so I could seperate it and then by plucking up the metal with a screwdriver I could find one when it held on to the layer underneath. Yours should be a walk in the park. I used a spot weld cutter on mine rather than a drill bit, it really did a great job, messy, as it creates loads of chewed metal but that’s all.
G’day Stacey,
Personally I’d blast the cab, but don’t use sand find a blaster who uses a water dissolvable media … I sandblasted my HD sedan about five years ago and I’m still finding sand (long term project). As with the restoration, your going to go a 308 so therefore you may as well give trixie a flash paint job. Because you are doing a tonner, this would be the best time to learn how to paint and panel, as you’ve only got a small area to do for example compared to a sedan. Take a leap of faith and give it a go at painting her yourself. With the internal structure of your roof you can purchase a long skinny nozzle style spray gun to get right into it with rust converter. I hope this helps you with your decision, I definitely don’t want to seem rude or anything like that. All the best, cheers mouse
Hey I do plan on painting her! I want to learn and I suspect her original Palais White would be easy enough. Thanks for the tip about getting rust converter into the nooks and krannies.
Sandblasting blows out weak thin parts of rusted metalabd rusted pits in metal its better to blast and definately split plenum as corners are definately trouble areas that need to be sealed properly from future moisture. Blasting reveals alot that the eye cant see abd ensures a better job for longevity of the vehicle ... Re seam seal all areas and treat cavities with fish oil or cavity wax epoxy prime baremetal after blasting inside and out to protect baremetal from rust Asap as moisture in air causes rust imediately after cars blasted phosphoroys acid helps coat and seak baremetal before epoxy primer ...just a little advice hope it helps respectfully Dino queensland australia 🇦🇺 👍👍👍👍👍🤗🤗🤗🤗✊✊✊✊✊
Awesome info, Dino, thanks. What's your experience/knowledge with blasting (with any media) on micro stretching of the panels? I've heard this from a few places, that just the blasting action - and not just heat - can do this. And yeah - phosphoric acid and fish oil I think will be my go-to treatment after the paint and rust is removed. I plan to do the epoxy primer myself, but will practice all this on some old panels first. Thanks for taking the time to share all those tips - much appreciated.
@@staceonwheels hi Stacy it’s expressive your undoing such a big task I’m a qualified panel beater automotive spray painter in the automotive industry for 36 yrs. I specialised in the full restoration of classic American 🇺🇸 and Australian 🇦🇺muscle cars to show quality and performance upgrades and customising I only give great information and will be watching your progress as I’ve subscribed to your channel I’m happy to answer any questions you may have ok 👍 👍👍👍
@@staceonwheels garnet blasting does get in everywhere but blow out every nook and cranny with air blower and a vacuum cleaner 👍👍👍
Likely I will have questions Dino. I really appreciate your support. I will never profess to know what I'm doing, but I love learning and love working on this tonner - it's therapy. People like you, as you can tell from other comments, are inspiring my journey with this! If you're happy to take some questions from me, please feel welcomed to email staceonwheels@gmail.com to connect a bit more easily. Or happy to keep it here on the channel.
@@staceonwheels a experience blaster will not warp panels just get it blasted 4. 5. 6 inches from edges if your not comfortable getting it fully blasted But distortion mainly accuses on larger areas like sedan roofs large rear quarter panels etc utes are quite small so I can safely say you won’t have problems with distortion just research a garnet blaster with years of experience and who is recommended buy other classic car restoration businesses