This video and the attached slide deck really helped me out, I was having a devil of a time getting this to work well but by implementing these suggestions I feel that I've made tremendous progress. Thanks!
Made my day. That is why I began the channel. Since I love playing with tech, and teaching others about it, this channel allows me to do both while helping people to get started with a range of new "maker skills" based on technology. As you learn more please feel free to share in the comments so others can also benefit from what you learn.
I’m very appreciative of your videos on this printer. I purchased one a couple weeks ago and have been struggling a little too get it tuned. I’ve had the Monoprice Maker Select printer for about 3 years, and it has been nearly flawless. I went for the MP-10 mostly because of the larger build volume, but I like the magnetic removable build plate, which is something I made for my Maker Select. I had issues with the test cat print breaking free from the build surface halfway through, but the print quality was excellent as you described. Blue painters tape and glue stick solved that along with some bed height adjustment. I started with my Maker Select profile in Simplify3D, and that proved disastrous as the speeds were too high leading to Y-axis layer shifting. Slowing it down to recommended CR-10 settings has helped. I have also experienced the extruder slipping. I’m anxious to see if your new tube helps that. Overall, I am also a little undecided about how I feel about the printer. I’ve had good prints and bad. I still think there is more tuning to do. It’s easy to forget that I’ve had 3 years to perfect my other printer and that it wasn’t always perfect. I just don’t think I had to do as much to it as I’ve had to do with this one. Keep up the good work! Looking forward to the next video.
Hello! I used the settings but I am getting really bad under extrusion, my calibration cube came out like a shredded wheat cereal piece. Any setting change you could recommend? I am using the stock extruder
Hello Mr. Shapiro, I got the printer from my sister who used it once only trying to print the cat, which did work. However, now that I have it, it's not working. I tried leveling the bed using the paper method and I ended up with the 4 corners being pretty good but the nozzle would be too high in the middle basically printing in the air. Do you have any idea how I could fix this? Maybe the heatbed is warped? Also, did you remove the blue rubber protection? around the nozzle? Thank you very much, Sir
its been 4 years, have you had to do any mods to it. I'm looking to disable/remove the filament sensor before the extruder. Also I'm not liking the interface on the touchscreen it lacks in more precise tuning than the original ender 3. Do you have any suggestions for modification or upgrades to the parts I mentioned?
Have you tried using the settings and g-code start and stop that are shown in the screenshots on the manual? I also compared it with the example g-code on the test cat. I noticed that the retraction commands are slightly different at the end.
I love this video. I have the Monoprice Mini Delta printer. I wonder if both printers have the same cold end part of the Extruder where the gears are located. I have been using Pet-g filament by a company called ridge.ink. On my mini delta I experience the same issue as you describe in the video. Some times I get a great print., Perfect. Other times the filament will not feed correctly. The gears will not push the filament into the hotend. So it is frustrating. I am considering the MP 10 or the Tevo Tornado printer. I like different specs on each one.
If you have a good caliper, measure the diameter of the cheap filament. It's possible it's smaller than 1.75mm and causing the extruder to slip. I've noticed that extruder (and you're right, it's same as on the mini) doesn't have very good spring tension/grip.
I did. The diameter is fine but it is much stiffer than the Hatchbox PLA. I do not think the gears can get any traction. Once again it is fine in the Ender and Prusa.
Btw, don't make the mistake I did and use acetone to clean the build surface... it will dissolve it. Also my removable build plate had several warps in it (perhaps happened after the acetone incident)... I found that a cheap (~$5) 12"x12" galvanized 28gauge sheet from HomeDepot + some stick-on surface (like buildtac) (amazon search for "3D Printer Build Surface with 3M Sticker") works as a great replacement (it's about a 1/8" small, but perfectly fine). You could even use blue painters tape on the sheet. Lots of easy options to try.
@@MakeWithTech actually it wasn't that I was really trying to clean print residue... the white logo was coming off on the bottom of my prints... was trying to clean it off the surface. Anyway, I know now ;) I wasn't too concerned (and expected it might hurt the surface) as I'm not a big fan of the rough surface finish. My preference is smooth PEI, which I have coming for another steel sheet.
Good Video! Hey DrVax (or anyone else here) have you tried PETG, ABS, or TPU on the MP10 since recording this? If yes, how did it go? Also is the MP10 made in the USA?
I haven't found a white filament, yet, that doesn't screw up if not printed at about 10 degrees higher than other colors. It may sound strange, but white filaments need higher temps for some reason.
I just finished upgrading my MP10 to an Anycubic metal extruder ($10.99 on Amazon) and a Capricorn Bowden tube ($13.29) on Amazon. Big difference. I am now able to print with all of my brands of PLA and also print at much higher speeds. Still reviewing quality. I should have a video on replacing the extruder in a day or two.
This is my first 3D printer. I need it for ABS. Stronger and more Heat resistant. How well is this printer going to work for me? I'm using the Monoprice premium ABS filament. Having trouble getting anything to print past the bottom layer.
ABS is generally very difficult to use and often requires a full printer enclosure to maintain temperature. Have you thought about trying high-temperature PLA or PETG. I have not tried PETG on this printer yet but I print it on my other printer all of the time and it works quite well. I will try it after I install the upgraded extruder next week.
@@MakeWithTech I built an enclosure. I plan on using parts in my truck interior and it gets really hot in the summer. I heard PLA wouldn't hold up. Thanks for the quick reply.
Check the specs on PETG. Might be ok. Also when layers are separating it often indicates you are printing at too low of a temperature and/or have the fan turned up to high for the materials.
I have this printer also and have had nothing but trouble with it. My Extruder has slipped from day one. I have tried and upgraded Metal extruder lever and different gears with no success. I have also tried a hand full of different band of filaments that my Monoprice IIIP prints without any problems but fails on this printer. Support and parts for this printer there is none. I even contacted the true maker of this printer Maylan and sent them an email because they show a direct drive option for this printer and never got a response back.
Sorry to hear that. I also had difficulty until I replaced the extruder with an all-metal extruder. Did you change the gear on the stepper motor when you changed the extruder and use both the idler and gear that came with your all-metal extruder? Also, I would recommend trying to slow down your prints and/or increase your print temperature. When the hot end temperature is too low it is hard for the extruder to push the filament through. The only time my extruder slips now is when I use the manual extruder controls from the front panel. They go much too fast. I used the "Anycubic Left Hand Aluminum Frame Block for 3D Printer MK8 Extruder Reprap i3 DIY Kits" that I purchased on Amazon. Yes, it is a problem that Monoprice does not provide parts. However, I just ordered the CR10 front rail reinforcement kit to see if standard CR10 parts work.
P.S. You need to replace the complete extruder, not just the lever. The lever, gears, spring, etc. are all part of a matched set. Hope this helps. If not take advance of the Monoprice warranty and return it. I did find this printer is high maintenance. What I mean by this is I needed to tinker with it a lot to get good results. Because I really like how easy it is to work on the hot end, I am going to use this as my large nozzle print. The ability to take off the hot end after you heat it up and just unscrew the nozzle is quite nice. I do hope in the future Monoprice or Malyan offer the ability to purchase additional hot ends.
This video and the attached slide deck really helped me out, I was having a devil of a time getting this to work well but by implementing these suggestions I feel that I've made tremendous progress. Thanks!
Made my day. That is why I began the channel. Since I love playing with tech, and teaching others about it, this channel allows me to do both while helping people to get started with a range of new "maker skills" based on technology.
As you learn more please feel free to share in the comments so others can also benefit from what you learn.
I’m very appreciative of your videos on this printer. I purchased one a couple weeks ago and have been struggling a little too get it tuned. I’ve had the Monoprice Maker Select printer for about 3 years, and it has been nearly flawless. I went for the MP-10 mostly because of the larger build volume, but I like the magnetic removable build plate, which is something I made for my Maker Select. I had issues with the test cat print breaking free from the build surface halfway through, but the print quality was excellent as you described. Blue painters tape and glue stick solved that along with some bed height adjustment. I started with my Maker Select profile in Simplify3D, and that proved disastrous as the speeds were too high leading to Y-axis layer shifting. Slowing it down to recommended CR-10 settings has helped. I have also experienced the extruder slipping. I’m anxious to see if your new tube helps that. Overall, I am also a little undecided about how I feel about the printer. I’ve had good prints and bad. I still think there is more tuning to do. It’s easy to forget that I’ve had 3 years to perfect my other printer and that it wasn’t always perfect. I just don’t think I had to do as much to it as I’ve had to do with this one. Keep up the good work! Looking forward to the next video.
Hello! I used the settings but I am getting really bad under extrusion, my calibration cube came out like a shredded wheat cereal piece. Any setting change you could recommend? I am using the stock extruder
Do you happen to have a link or a name to the extruder upgrade you used?
Hello Mr. Shapiro,
I got the printer from my sister who used it once only trying to print the cat, which did work. However, now that I have it, it's not working. I tried leveling the bed using the paper method and I ended up with the 4 corners being pretty good but the nozzle would be too high in the middle basically printing in the air. Do you have any idea how I could fix this? Maybe the heatbed is warped?
Also, did you remove the blue rubber protection? around the nozzle?
Thank you very much, Sir
Do not remove the blue silicon sock. Watch this video. This same technique will work on the MP10.
ruclips.net/video/y_xCtxcwDrQ/видео.html
its been 4 years, have you had to do any mods to it. I'm looking to disable/remove the filament sensor before the extruder. Also I'm not liking the interface on the touchscreen it lacks in more precise tuning than the original ender 3. Do you have any suggestions for modification or upgrades to the parts I mentioned?
Have you tried using the settings and g-code start and stop that are shown in the screenshots on the manual? I also compared it with the example g-code on the test cat. I noticed that the retraction commands are slightly different at the end.
I have. I did not find the start code effective at priming the print head. These retraction settings were tuning for the sample prints.
I love this video. I have the Monoprice Mini Delta printer. I wonder if both printers have the same cold end part of the Extruder where the gears are located. I have been using Pet-g filament by a company called ridge.ink. On my mini delta I experience the same issue as you describe in the video. Some times I get a great print., Perfect. Other times the filament will not feed correctly. The gears will not push the filament into the hotend. So it is frustrating. I am considering the MP 10 or the Tevo Tornado printer. I like different specs on each one.
If you have a good caliper, measure the diameter of the cheap filament. It's possible it's smaller than 1.75mm and causing the extruder to slip. I've noticed that extruder (and you're right, it's same as on the mini) doesn't have very good spring tension/grip.
I did. The diameter is fine but it is much stiffer than the Hatchbox PLA. I do not think the gears can get any traction. Once again it is fine in the Ender and Prusa.
@@MakeWithTech yup, probably the tension isn't enough to grip properly
I ordered a nylon filament. Have you tried nylon on the mp10? I have the mp10.
Hello, thanks for your video :) May I suggest for your next video a table chart of the filament and printer used. That would be very helpful :)
Good idea.
Btw, don't make the mistake I did and use acetone to clean the build surface... it will dissolve it. Also my removable build plate had several warps in it (perhaps happened after the acetone incident)... I found that a cheap (~$5) 12"x12" galvanized 28gauge sheet from HomeDepot + some stick-on surface (like buildtac) (amazon search for "3D Printer Build Surface with 3M Sticker") works as a great replacement (it's about a 1/8" small, but perfectly fine). You could even use blue painters tape on the sheet. Lots of easy options to try.
I use rubbing alcohol to clean it. Works great.
@@MakeWithTech actually it wasn't that I was really trying to clean print residue... the white logo was coming off on the bottom of my prints... was trying to clean it off the surface. Anyway, I know now ;) I wasn't too concerned (and expected it might hurt the surface) as I'm not a big fan of the rough surface finish. My preference is smooth PEI, which I have coming for another steel sheet.
Good Video! Hey DrVax (or anyone else here) have you tried PETG, ABS, or TPU on the MP10 since recording this? If yes, how did it go? Also is the MP10 made in the USA?
The MP10 is made in China. I have printed TPU and PETG on the MP10 after changing the extruder but not ABS.
DrVax according to google their company headquarters is in Rancho Cucomonga CA. Do you know if that’s true?
Can you please post all the parts/link you got to upgrade it?
Yep. I am away from my desk but should get to this later today.
@@MakeWithTech Thank you!
@@MakeWithTech Did you ever post the complete parts list for the extruders and the associated gears?
I haven't found a white filament, yet, that doesn't screw up if not printed at about 10 degrees higher than other colors. It may sound strange, but white filaments need higher temps for some reason.
Interesting.
@@MakeWithTech I stated that as fact, but intended it to be from my own experience.
great video - lots of good tips!
Thank you so much for the update. Looks like I'm going for the Creality CR10S Pro
I just finished upgrading my MP10 to an Anycubic metal extruder ($10.99 on Amazon) and a Capricorn Bowden tube ($13.29) on Amazon. Big difference. I am now able to print with all of my brands of PLA and also print at much higher speeds. Still reviewing quality. I should have a video on replacing the extruder in a day or two.
However, there is no question that the CR10 family of printers is more proven and as of right now better supported.
This is my first 3D printer. I need it for ABS. Stronger and more Heat resistant. How well is this printer going to work for me? I'm using the Monoprice premium ABS filament. Having trouble getting anything to print past the bottom layer.
ABS is generally very difficult to use and often requires a full printer enclosure to maintain temperature. Have you thought about trying high-temperature PLA or PETG. I have not tried PETG on this printer yet but I print it on my other printer all of the time and it works quite well.
I will try it after I install the upgraded extruder next week.
@@MakeWithTech I built an enclosure. I plan on using parts in my truck interior and it gets really hot in the summer. I heard PLA wouldn't hold up. Thanks for the quick reply.
Check the specs on PETG. Might be ok. Also when layers are separating it often indicates you are printing at too low of a temperature and/or have the fan turned up to high for the materials.
Also you might be printing at to high of a layer height between layers.
I have this printer also and have had nothing but trouble with it. My Extruder has slipped from day one. I have tried and upgraded Metal extruder lever and different gears with no success. I have also tried a hand full of different band of filaments that my Monoprice IIIP prints without any problems but fails on this printer. Support and parts for this printer there is none. I even contacted the true maker of this printer Maylan and sent them an email because they show a direct drive option for this printer and never got a response back.
Sorry to hear that. I also had difficulty until I replaced the extruder with an all-metal extruder. Did you change the gear on the stepper motor when you changed the extruder and use both the idler and gear that came with your all-metal extruder? Also, I would recommend trying to slow down your prints and/or increase your print temperature. When the hot end temperature is too low it is hard for the extruder to push the filament through.
The only time my extruder slips now is when I use the manual extruder controls from the front panel. They go much too fast.
I used the "Anycubic Left Hand Aluminum Frame Block for 3D Printer MK8 Extruder Reprap i3 DIY Kits" that I purchased on Amazon.
Yes, it is a problem that Monoprice does not provide parts. However, I just ordered the CR10 front rail reinforcement kit to see if standard CR10 parts work.
P.S. You need to replace the complete extruder, not just the lever. The lever, gears, spring, etc. are all part of a matched set. Hope this helps. If not take advance of the Monoprice warranty and return it.
I did find this printer is high maintenance. What I mean by this is I needed to tinker with it a lot to get good results. Because I really like how easy it is to work on the hot end, I am going to use this as my large nozzle print. The ability to take off the hot end after you heat it up and just unscrew the nozzle is quite nice. I do hope in the future Monoprice or Malyan offer the ability to purchase additional hot ends.
Thank you, your videos and info have allowed my MP10 mini to be usable. I will not being buying another monoprice there support is terrible.
Sorry to I hear that.
Would you recommend this over the Creality CR-10?
Really difficult call. In addition which CR-10 model? On a price feature basis the MP10 is better. However the CR10 ecosystem is much better.
is this guy related to Ben Shapiro?