One Take 9-5 guy here. I'm throwing the same codes right now and before watching I bought an OEM DI cassette today. Thanks for confirming my fears about aftermarket cassettes.
Hey man, nice hearing from you! Yes, the DI cassette is central to the performance of the engine and it took even Saab many iterations to get them just right. The aftermarket cassettes must be avoided.
Yep, I'd say it's pretty universal. But each time we save someone from buying the wrong aftermarket components we have made a good deed. Interestingly enough I advocate against two aftermarket components and advocate for two aftermarket components in the video. Difference is that one is that two of them are cheap copies while two are uprated parts :)
Thanks for the awesome videos! I just kinda started a American version of your channel dedicated to Saabs. You inspired me to do so. I have a 03 9-5 Aero. SwedePower417 is my channel, nowhere near as good as yours, but I'm trying to keep as many Saabs on the road with the knowledge I can pass on to other Saabies. So, thank you again for all your Saab help and dedication and I look forward to your next video. Oh, and do a review on the roof box.
Trionic Seven thanks for the reply and I absolutely agree, there hasn't really ever been alot of content for Saabs on RUclips. But, I'm just glad you are helping the community out, and I'm looking forward to doing it more as well! I love Saabs and want to also show people that it's not a dead brand, but one that is still alive, well and has a bigger community of people trying to keep them alive. Thanks again for the reply and don't mind the editing if you watch my videos, it's horrible and I'm still trying to find the right software to fit my editing needs. Lol Take car my friend and have a great day! 😁
Thank you Patrik! And you've got a new follower as well bud! I'll do my best to put out good Saab content for you all! 😁 And thank you again Trionic Seven for all your hard work!
Never throw away a DI casette. Even your new (and since you have 2 cars) casette may fail completely all of the sudden, so it's nice to have this one 99% working one spare to at least drive home. This "bad" casette that caused you a CEL, it would work for thousands kilometers yet still. The crack, you had seen there, is also one of the reasons why it is bad and basically why you got the trouble codes. P1312 Combustion Signal Cyl 1+2 Shortage P1334 Combustion Signal Cyl 3+4 Shortage These should mostly happen only when starting, not while driving, I guess you also did not get it while driving, right? (even that might happen, but not in general). Some elements including epoxide inside did crack from getting hot and then cold again, so you may get that 1+2 or 3+4 (sometimes really only 1 of those) shortages while starting, mostly, means you won't get as powerful spark at cyl1, because it'll also fire cyl2 out of the timing :-/ as bad as this might sound, until it's only happening on starting, you're quite OK, people tend to drive with that issues even tens of thousands of kilometers. Anyway, since you already replaced it :) keep the old one. I have like 6 of those or so, saved few guys with them already and also lending them to people that travel too far (like Croatia or so) to have it spare if their own would give up.
Brilliant video well worth the wait. I think you did well with those repair costs, the aero clutch should do 100k miles +. The bolt in the bel housing has probably been sat there cushty for a while, you hit a bump then the flywheel kicked it around. If you were unlucky I would expect a solid clutch pedal and damage to the bell housing but the Saab gods were smiling on you. Great car
This is going to sound crazy, but literally the same thing happened to me 2 days ago. I drove over a speed bump and suddenly the clutch started to rattle like there were metal bits in it. But in my case, the clutch actually gave out. The gearbox still engages but there is no drive in any gear. The rattling noise only occurs while the clutch is engaged. And there was no warning, clutch was not slipping and had good, low engagement :(
Hi Jonathan! Thanks very much for this cool addition. Always intersting to learn from your experience and there's always something useful that I pick up. Keep up the excellent work and don't forget when it comes to the wheel bearing replacement - I'm your man! By the way, did you ever use the new brake rotors you got for Laxen?
Hey Paul! Thanks for your comment. I sold the rear brakes with Laxen, but the front brakes are still on the shelf and I'm going to make an unboxing vid some day :)
Flywheel bolt, "flying" inside the clutch chamber... WOW!! ... yes!, someone at some point replaced the clutch, removed the flywheel for some reason (crankshaft oil seal remove/replace?/ machine the flywheel? ) and during re-assembly did NOT torque those bolts to spec. In my book that is the most probable explanation. Myself, I also put a small drop of flexible (blue) locktite to each bolt during installation to add a layer of prevention in addition to torque to the correct spec when I replace clutches.
Maybe, but now we will never know... I own a 2004 9-5 2.3t, & did a full clutch, crankshaft inner oil seal, oil pan & subframe bushings job(s) not to long ago. I'm glad my flywheel bolts were properly tighten to start with. On re-assembly: small drop of Blue Locktite; torque to 65 Nm + 40º clockwise. Those bolts will not go anywhere...
Thank you Jonathan! I am rebuilding my og9-3 and was about to buy a clutch kit with aftermarket slave cylinder and LUK. Given how involved the job is it's better to get the sure-win components.
just get the viggen clutch kit from auto zone. thats what i did. also make sure to inspect your flywheel. mine had a lot of surface cracks and set me back three weeks because i couldn't find an OEM replacement. ended up buying the light aluminum one from genuine saab. which i recommend if you need a new one. it has a replaceable wear surface!
Trionic Seven Thank you both! Actually I am installing a B235R from a 2006 9-5 so i won't be able to run away from Viggen clutch. I am in Canada so we don't have AutoZone, luckily rockauto has Sachs. This video and suggestions came just in time!
Jon H well you could use the base model clutch :p why are you swapping though? I hear the b204 has stronger ininternal. is there an advantage to swapping to the b235r?
Madam President yes because I want to stick with T7 engine, also the 2006 B235R comes with the king cobra pipe that makes 260HP stock so no need to modify much! Thanks I will look out for FAG logo! I got curious and courtesy of Wikipedia:) FAG stands for "Fischer's Automatische Gusstahlkugelfabrik," or "Fischer's Automatic Steel Ball Factory."
Another great video! Thank you for all of the information that you share! I have a suggestion for a video. For those of us who haven't tackled this problem just yet. Say, you replace an engine, or an automatic transmission (or both), which computer do you need to deal with. Do you simply remove the ECU from the old engine, then install it on the replacement engine? Will an engine or transmission swap cause a problem with the ignition key? Should one prepare for error messages until the new engine or transmission is reset with the GM tool? Thanks again!
The ECU must basically match the hardware (i.e. engine specs), so I think you take the old ECU. You'll need to modify the VIN number, however, to get it to work with the TWICE box in the body.
0635 on the casette also means that the casette is made in 2006 week 35 :) so that casette is pretty old by now. Personally i don´t trust anything other than 3.7E. Even the oldest ones of those are getting to be pretty old. I run on E85 only and somewhat tuned cars, it might not be as critical when running stock cars on petrol.
It are not cheap to replace coils on any engine like a VW an for sure the best are, and recomended are to replace all cylinder coils at same time, and then it will cost probabl close to the SAAB cassette. and if ou use a carshop to do the work the SAAB will be the cheapest in that case. There are also loads of benefits with the DI casette compared to single-coils. I id just see a 9-5 for sale, I think it was a ogfacelifted and the engine bay picture had a T5 DI. that made me scared of that car. I dont think that it was repainted to read. Never ever use the red T5 on T7. Thanks for the vieo. I hope I be able to do some my self soon. Have an og 9-3 Caled Lars, and just did check it toa to carge battery, and I think it has all parts for the full preasure map. Wierd. Anyhow it has to get back on the road soon. Next are the 9-5 2002 Aero, with xxxx km on the odo. about 400k. I got it really cheap, and the first in min was to swap parts to my -02 2.3t. Ok why you ask. Because I like it black. That one allready had made an engine swap by me to an Aero engine with 135km, When I did put that engine in my thougth was to put all needed parts from the Aero in to the 2,3t to run. But then the sad thing happened, I did change the clutch cylinder to a new one, bought it from speedparts and it was stock not aftermarket. not even a year later the cylinder broke apart. reall a sad history. Ok then the work to get it on road again had to restart, the engine swap was mad in the winter 2014 and in a cold garage. the coldest days I had minus 30C in my "tent garae a few lass degres. Anyhow I made the swap, havey lifts or hard or many hours do not scare me, I manage it allmost every time. Like the last da with another of topic work, luckily the wheel nut tool did fit to that project, a totaly another story on my YTC later on. OK the 9-5 2,3t needed a job, the clutch I Thought, did manage to take apart and the way that time was to ty to make a body lift and a front subframe pulldown. I did a little miss and the AC-line got broken, probably it would have appeared soon anyhow. I then did got in to some kind of car mind depression. and after all I did manage that the cheap boughtAero had to roll out on the road again. That engine did really sounds bad. I again did an engineswap and I did drive thet car a few weeks, for of topic reasons, life are/is life. and i did stop me at that time to go on. Ok now the Aero are ready to go on again, but I have an ABSlight, Probably the right back bearing has to be replaced. I had a bearing bay from an ng 900, but after the swap the ABS still lights up, maybe it not are the right one. Sadl my TechII did fail and none of those other OBD readers tell me any code about the ABS. A friend of mine has aPC sstem and this weeken I will try that system to see if it reads out the ABS failure. Also soon I have to lift the camshafts and change the hydralic valve lifters, have one or two that not work proparly an makes bad sound at cold starts. Well I will soon put up about that project and I hope most of you guys connect then.
I feel you my friend. My 9-3's in the shop, The AC compressor and Serpentine Belt tensioner failed. Should be ready tomorrow. All said and done the cost is $1379.38 =/
Picked her up this morning. Shes back on the road and running smooth =) I was off a bit on the price tho, the total was $1,397.38. Sorry I'm a bit dyslexic.
Maybe some guy replaced the flywheel at some point, maybe there was no lock tight on the bolts, love your channel and your videos, what Saab do you think I should get, I really want I Saab 900 1988 model
Kan du inte visa var länkaget sitter och hur man justerar det? Jag har nytt länkage på min 9-5 men tror det är lite halvtaskigt justerat för man får trixa lite med backen ibland.
Hi Trionic 7 , i reach 451000 with my saab 9-5 of 2000, every cold start a huge cumulonimbus cloud white smoke , when engine get hot after 5 minutes smoke disappear , i need to top off water coolant every 100 km roughly , i suspect head gasket ???
Doesn't sound good at all. I have never had a head gasket fail but that sounds like it (or a turbo failure). Don't drive it but have an experienced mechanic take a look at it before it gets really expensive.
oh yeah the turbo i haven't yet checked it , it could be the turbo , when ii removed the sparks plug no presence of water inside the top of cylinders with a small light via the plug access!;
Question: I am new to Saab's and I own a 2005 9-3 Arc Convertible. (5 speed manual) Can I use that 9-5 Aero clutch on my 2.0T? I hear that SPEC is a hit/miss in the aftermarket world.
Never upgraded my clutch beyond OEM stuff, but several tuners I've talked to agree that SPEC is a bad idea. The Sachs clutches are supposed to be great, but more expensive.
Thank you for the reply, but you didn't answer my question fully. I appreciate the feedback about SPEC but my main question (re-worded slightly): Can an OEM clutch for the 9-5 Aero (2.3 liter) work in a '05 9-3 2.0T? The reason I ask is I need upgraded torque holding abilities.
Jag hade en 99:a automat -76 där momentomvandlaren lossnade! Som tur var hann den inte lossna helt men med tre bultar avslitna och resten lösa var katastrofen förmodligen sekunder bort...
Ja så här långt får jag allt vara nöjd med saabs kvalité. Jag har haft 23 stycken dom senaste 37 åren och det som pajat är momentomvandlaren, en turbo på en 900 80:a , ac-pumpen på en 81:a, topplockspackningen på en 9000-97, bakdämparna på en 9-5-00, styrsevoledningarna på en 9-5 07:a och ac-kondensorn på 9-3 -11. Kondensorn var ett stenskott men jag räknar det eftersom det är korkat konstruerat att inte ha ett skydd när den är öppen så långt ner. Bakdämparna är nog mer av en slitdetalj egentligen.
If you buy a slave cylinder from a renowned manufacturer like TRW, Sachs, LuK.....you want have any problems. Saab is only buying the cylinders from the above mentioned companies. I´m also sorry to say that the quality of parts has dropped since Orio took over
One Take 9-5 guy here. I'm throwing the same codes right now and before watching I bought an OEM DI cassette today. Thanks for confirming my fears about aftermarket cassettes.
Hey man, nice hearing from you! Yes, the DI cassette is central to the performance of the engine and it took even Saab many iterations to get them just right. The aftermarket cassettes must be avoided.
Yep, I'd say it's pretty universal. But each time we save someone from buying the wrong aftermarket components we have made a good deed. Interestingly enough I advocate against two aftermarket components and advocate for two aftermarket components in the video. Difference is that one is that two of them are cheap copies while two are uprated parts :)
Thanks for the awesome videos! I just kinda started a American version of your channel dedicated to Saabs. You inspired me to do so. I have a 03 9-5 Aero. SwedePower417 is my channel, nowhere near as good as yours, but I'm trying to keep as many Saabs on the road with the knowledge I can pass on to other Saabies. So, thank you again for all your Saab help and dedication and I look forward to your next video. Oh, and do a review on the roof box.
Awesome! I'll check it out. Back when I started youtube was almost devoid of Saab content. Glad to see people are inspired to put up more stuff.
Trionic Seven thanks for the reply and I absolutely agree, there hasn't really ever been alot of content for Saabs on RUclips. But, I'm just glad you are helping the community out, and I'm looking forward to doing it more as well! I love Saabs and want to also show people that it's not a dead brand, but one that is still alive, well and has a bigger community of people trying to keep them alive. Thanks again for the reply and don't mind the editing if you watch my videos, it's horrible and I'm still trying to find the right software to fit my editing needs. Lol Take car my friend and have a great day! 😁
Thank you Patrik! And you've got a new follower as well bud! I'll do my best to put out good Saab content for you all! 😁 And thank you again Trionic Seven for all your hard work!
I'll check out ur channel
how much did all this cost parts n labor? i US dolar?
Never throw away a DI casette. Even your new (and since you have 2 cars) casette may fail completely all of the sudden, so it's nice to have this one 99% working one spare to at least drive home. This "bad" casette that caused you a CEL, it would work for thousands kilometers yet still. The crack, you had seen there, is also one of the reasons why it is bad and basically why you got the trouble codes.
P1312 Combustion Signal Cyl 1+2 Shortage
P1334 Combustion Signal Cyl 3+4 Shortage
These should mostly happen only when starting, not while driving, I guess you also did not get it while driving, right? (even that might happen, but not in general).
Some elements including epoxide inside did crack from getting hot and then cold again, so you may get that 1+2 or 3+4 (sometimes really only 1 of those) shortages while starting, mostly, means you won't get as powerful spark at cyl1, because it'll also fire cyl2 out of the timing :-/ as bad as this might sound, until it's only happening on starting, you're quite OK, people tend to drive with that issues even tens of thousands of kilometers.
Anyway, since you already replaced it :) keep the old one. I have like 6 of those or so, saved few guys with them already and also lending them to people that travel too far (like Croatia or so) to have it spare if their own would give up.
Thanks, Peter! I learn new things from you as always!
Brilliant video well worth the wait. I think you did well with those repair costs, the aero clutch should do 100k miles +.
The bolt in the bel housing has probably been sat there cushty for a while, you hit a bump then the flywheel kicked it around. If you were unlucky I would expect a solid clutch pedal and damage to the bell housing but the Saab gods were smiling on you. Great car
Thanks, Dave. Yes, we were lucky :)
This is going to sound crazy, but literally the same thing happened to me 2 days ago. I drove over a speed bump and suddenly the clutch started to rattle like there were metal bits in it. But in my case, the clutch actually gave out. The gearbox still engages but there is no drive in any gear. The rattling noise only occurs while the clutch is engaged. And there was no warning, clutch was not slipping and had good, low engagement :(
Wow, you really got lucky there...good thing there wasn't any terrible damage
Yeah, I am grateful that nothing bad happened :)
Hi Jonathan! Thanks very much for this cool addition. Always intersting to learn from your experience and there's always something useful that I pick up. Keep up the excellent work and don't forget when it comes to the wheel bearing replacement - I'm your man! By the way, did you ever use the new brake rotors you got for Laxen?
Hey Paul! Thanks for your comment. I sold the rear brakes with Laxen, but the front brakes are still on the shelf and I'm going to make an unboxing vid some day :)
I enjoy your enthusiasm.... I have parked my 2001 SAAB 9-3 hatchback.... it is just too difficult to keep it on the road
Sad to hear!
Thanks for all the tips ☺️
Flywheel bolt, "flying" inside the clutch chamber... WOW!! ... yes!, someone at some point replaced the clutch, removed the flywheel for some reason (crankshaft oil seal remove/replace?/ machine the flywheel? ) and during re-assembly did NOT torque those bolts to spec. In my book that is the most probable explanation. Myself, I also put a small drop of flexible (blue) locktite to each bolt during installation to add a layer of prevention in addition to torque to the correct spec when I replace clutches.
It's weird indeed. I've been contacted by another 9-5 2006 2.0t owner who had the exact same problem! So maybe it's a factory thing.
Maybe, but now we will never know... I own a 2004 9-5 2.3t, & did a full clutch, crankshaft inner oil seal, oil pan & subframe bushings job(s) not to long ago. I'm glad my flywheel bolts were properly tighten to start with. On re-assembly: small drop of Blue Locktite; torque to 65 Nm + 40º clockwise. Those bolts will not go anywhere...
Jonas är grym! Bor 10 min bort så han har gjort saabägandet busenkelt
Thank you Jonathan! I am rebuilding my og9-3 and was about to buy a clutch kit with aftermarket slave cylinder and LUK. Given how involved the job is it's better to get the sure-win components.
just get the viggen clutch kit from auto zone. thats what i did. also make sure to inspect your flywheel. mine had a lot of surface cracks and set me back three weeks because i couldn't find an OEM replacement. ended up buying the light aluminum one from genuine saab. which i recommend if you need a new one. it has a replaceable wear surface!
What the previous poster said. The viggen clutch is a good idea, and be sure to get that OEM slave cylinder/throwout bearing.
Trionic Seven
Thank you both! Actually I am installing a B235R from a 2006 9-5 so i won't be able to run away from Viggen clutch. I am in Canada so we don't have AutoZone, luckily rockauto has Sachs. This video and suggestions came just in time!
Jon H well you could use the base model clutch :p why are you swapping though? I hear the b204 has stronger ininternal. is there an advantage to swapping to the b235r?
Madam President
yes because I want to stick with T7 engine, also the 2006 B235R comes with the king cobra pipe that makes 260HP stock so no need to modify much!
Thanks I will look out for FAG logo! I got curious and courtesy of Wikipedia:) FAG stands for
"Fischer's Automatische Gusstahlkugelfabrik," or "Fischer's Automatic Steel Ball Factory."
Another great video! Thank you for all of the information that you share!
I have a suggestion for a video. For those of us who haven't tackled this problem just yet. Say, you replace an engine, or an automatic transmission (or both), which computer do you need to deal with. Do you simply remove the ECU from the old engine, then install it on the replacement engine? Will an engine or transmission swap cause a problem with the ignition key? Should one prepare for error messages until the new engine or transmission is reset with the GM tool?
Thanks again!
The ECU must basically match the hardware (i.e. engine specs), so I think you take the old ECU. You'll need to modify the VIN number, however, to get it to work with the TWICE box in the body.
Thanks, Jonathan!
Love your videos from indiana, United States!
Thanks for stopping by :D
0635 on the casette also means that the casette is made in 2006 week 35 :) so that casette is pretty old by now.
Personally i don´t trust anything other than 3.7E. Even the oldest ones of those are getting to be pretty old. I run on E85 only and somewhat tuned cars, it might not be as critical when running stock cars on petrol.
Good point, didn't know that number was a date code. :)
could you please refer me to the workshop service manual that you are using?
Love your vids, they help me with my saab so much!
Thanks, glad to help! :D
Your videos man, so nice. Keep on going!
Wow, thanks! :)
It are not cheap to replace coils on any engine like a VW an for sure the best are, and recomended are to replace all cylinder coils at same time, and then it will cost probabl close to the SAAB cassette. and if ou use a carshop to do the work the SAAB will be the cheapest in that case.
There are also loads of benefits with the DI casette compared to single-coils.
I id just see a 9-5 for sale, I think it was a ogfacelifted and the engine bay picture had a T5 DI. that made me scared of that car.
I dont think that it was repainted to read.
Never ever use the red T5 on T7.
Thanks for the vieo. I hope I be able to do some my self soon.
Have an og 9-3 Caled Lars, and just did check it toa to carge battery, and I think it has all parts for the full preasure map. Wierd.
Anyhow it has to get back on the road soon.
Next are the 9-5 2002 Aero, with xxxx km on the odo.
about 400k.
I got it really cheap, and the first in min was to swap parts to my -02 2.3t. Ok why you ask.
Because I like it black.
That one allready had made an engine swap by me to an Aero engine with 135km,
When I did put that engine in my thougth was to put all needed parts from the Aero in to the 2,3t to run.
But then the sad thing happened, I did change the clutch cylinder to a new one, bought it from speedparts and it was stock not aftermarket. not even a year later the cylinder broke apart. reall a sad history.
Ok then the work to get it on road again had to restart, the engine swap was mad in the winter 2014 and in a cold garage. the coldest days I had minus 30C in my "tent garae a few lass degres.
Anyhow I made the swap, havey lifts or hard or many hours do not scare me, I manage it allmost every time.
Like the last da with another of topic work, luckily the wheel nut tool did fit to that project, a totaly another story on my YTC later on.
OK the 9-5 2,3t needed a job, the clutch I Thought, did manage to take apart and the way that time was to ty to make a body lift and a front subframe pulldown. I did a little miss and the AC-line got broken, probably it would have appeared soon anyhow.
I then did got in to some kind of car mind depression. and after all I did manage that the cheap boughtAero had to roll out on the road again. That engine did really sounds bad.
I again did an engineswap and I did drive thet car a few weeks, for of topic reasons, life are/is life. and i did stop me at that time to go on.
Ok now the Aero are ready to go on again, but I have an ABSlight, Probably the right back bearing has to be replaced.
I had a bearing bay from an ng 900, but after the swap the ABS still lights up, maybe it not are the right one.
Sadl my TechII did fail and none of those other OBD readers tell me any code about the ABS. A friend of mine has aPC sstem and this weeken I will try that system to see if it reads out the ABS failure.
Also soon I have to lift the camshafts and change the hydralic valve lifters, have one or two that not work proparly an makes bad sound at cold starts.
Well I will soon put up about that project and I hope most of you guys connect then.
I feel you my friend. My 9-3's in the shop, The AC compressor and Serpentine Belt tensioner failed. Should be ready tomorrow.
All said and done the cost is $1379.38 =/
Wow, that's a lot of money. Hope the 9-3 runs well now!
Picked her up this morning. Shes back on the road and running smooth =)
I was off a bit on the price tho, the total was $1,397.38. Sorry I'm a bit dyslexic.
Glad you corrected the price, it was a huge difference to what you said in the beginning ;)
lol =)
16:30 Have you said, clutch spring?
Helpful video, thanks!
Clock spring! I have another video on that.
Maybe some guy replaced the flywheel at some point, maybe there was no lock tight on the bolts, love your channel and your videos, what Saab do you think I should get, I really want I Saab 900 1988 model
thats the year i want! my birth year :)
It's a total mystery at this point :) I have never driven the classic 900, but it appears to be a car with a real Saab feel to it!
Should I try to find I Saab 900 or Saab 900 turbo maybe an spg model, did you the make any blue 900 in 1988
Kan du inte göra en film där du byter backventilen i vevhusventilationen?
Den brukar ju alltid pajja. Den under plastkåpan.
Det är på att-göra-listan :)
Kan du inte visa var länkaget sitter och hur man justerar det? Jag har nytt länkage på min 9-5 men tror det är lite halvtaskigt justerat för man får trixa lite med backen ibland.
Tyvärr vet jag knappt själv eftersom jag lämnade in det.
How many Kilometres did your last DI cassette last? How many KM do your DI cassettes last in general?
There's not really a mileage on DI cassettes. Mine lasted 210000 km, but is still usable if you ignore the occasional CEL:
Hi Trionic 7 , i reach 451000 with my saab 9-5 of 2000, every cold start a huge cumulonimbus cloud white smoke , when engine get hot after 5 minutes smoke disappear , i need to top off water coolant every 100 km roughly , i suspect head gasket ???
451000km
Doesn't sound good at all. I have never had a head gasket fail but that sounds like it (or a turbo failure). Don't drive it but have an experienced mechanic take a look at it before it gets really expensive.
oh yeah the turbo i haven't yet checked it , it could be the turbo , when ii removed the sparks plug no presence of water inside the top of cylinders with a small light via the plug access!;
whats the cobra pipe?
Cobra pipe is the air intake side of the turbo. The cobra goes from the mass airflow sensor down to the turbo.
Question: I am new to Saab's and I own a 2005 9-3 Arc Convertible. (5 speed manual) Can I use that 9-5 Aero clutch on my 2.0T? I hear that SPEC is a hit/miss in the aftermarket world.
Never upgraded my clutch beyond OEM stuff, but several tuners I've talked to agree that SPEC is a bad idea. The Sachs clutches are supposed to be great, but more expensive.
I just replaced my clutch. The OEM clutch plate had SACHS stamped on it.
Yeah, I should have clarified with that. Thanks.
Thank you for the reply, but you didn't answer my question fully. I appreciate the feedback about SPEC but my main question (re-worded slightly):
Can an OEM clutch for the 9-5 Aero (2.3 liter) work in a '05 9-3 2.0T? The reason I ask is I need upgraded torque holding abilities.
Sorry, I don't know enough about the ng9-3 to give an answer. My feeling is probably not.
Jag hade en 99:a automat -76 där momentomvandlaren lossnade! Som tur var hann den inte lossna helt men med tre bultar avslitna och resten lösa var katastrofen förmodligen sekunder bort...
Hopps! Vi får säga att vi har tur :)
Ja så här långt får jag allt vara nöjd med saabs kvalité. Jag har haft 23 stycken dom senaste 37 åren och det som pajat är momentomvandlaren, en turbo på en 900 80:a , ac-pumpen på en 81:a, topplockspackningen på en 9000-97, bakdämparna på en 9-5-00, styrsevoledningarna på en 9-5 07:a och ac-kondensorn på 9-3 -11. Kondensorn var ett stenskott men jag räknar det eftersom det är korkat konstruerat att inte ha ett skydd när den är öppen så långt ner. Bakdämparna är nog mer av en slitdetalj egentligen.
Oj, kul med så många bilar :) Ja, bakdämparna är standard på 9-5, speciellt kombin.
If you buy a slave cylinder from a renowned manufacturer like TRW, Sachs, LuK.....you want have any problems. Saab is only buying the cylinders from the above mentioned companies. I´m also sorry to say that the quality of parts has dropped since Orio took over
Thanks, interesting to know. Didn't know that quality had dropped.
Well, it´s only my opinion and maybe doesn´t applied for all Orio products....but for some it definetly does
Hej jag undrar som jag skrev till dig för ett tag sen jag undrar vilken saab du skulle rekommendera till mig och vad finns det för och nackdelar ?
Kort sagt, välutrustad 9-5 2004 Aero. Bra balans mellan pris, funktioner, härlig prestanda, ingen oil sludge men den kanske börjar bli lite gammal.
Har nog inte råd med aero men den med 185 hk..
En bil som inte är Aero har en sämre turbo som ofta går sönder.
Ok jag ska väl se om jag kan hitta en aero,
thanks for video Swedish cars rock
Glad you like it!
expensive, you shouldn't need to pay any more than 4 or 5 hours labour plus parts for most cars
Expensive? This was the cheapest way to replace it in half the country!
Jag har samma modell fast med 1.9 diesel :)
Knack knack knack ;) Nejdå, 1.9 TiD ska vara bra motorer
It's hurts my brain cells
@15:03...Fucking Amal?
The same place! ;)
I didn't think it was a real town!! You have a very educational channel here, Trionic...
We learn all the important knowledge here! :D