I would always always buy the proper certified parts to vent the heater properly. it doesn't pay to rig and hack things up on your own because you want to save a few bucks. Piece of mind that it's done correctly from manufacturers instructions goes a long way my friend. also, single wall venting needs a minimum of 9 inches clearance to combustibles and cannot Penetrate a roof line. your plywood is going to catch fire. please be safe
I have a Hayward H250FDN heater to replace my 25 year old Hayward Comfortzone in my pool shed. The existing heater venting is 7" with an even larger collar attached to the heater. The H250 manual indicates the new heater requires 6" venting. Can I simply use your procedure but change the collar to a 6" and then use a 7" to 6" reducer on the existing stack to attach it to the new 6" collar on the new H250?
I'm trying to find someone in Dallas to build a shed and vent my heater (like you did) but nobody wants to do it! Can you share how you built your shed? Also, did you every put a valve in for condensation? Would love to see what you did.
Hey Ken, in the kit they sell online it has a few other parts that look like they are wires and electrical in nature. Do you know what those other parts are and if they are necessary? I have a smaller Hayward 150 so I’m not sure if they are specific to my heater but thought I’d ask.
Martin, that's a good question, yes I researched those out and they are pressure switches. I was worried that the unit would shut off due the possible pressure differences. So I was prepared to purchase those separately if needed. Lucky for me the modifications that I performed did not require the new pressure switch. I have a feeling that if you did a horizontal installation that would require a switch change out but sense I was doing a vertical (Less Restrictions) installation it was not required to perform a change out in the switch.
Major issue with this video though and why you should buy the kit. The kit comes with a steel intake vent that you need to change on the interior of the Hayward to increase the air flow when Hayward is enclosed and vented exterior. While the piping mod is great, you also need to adjust the intake side of the equation. Hayward specifically calls this out in the manual especially for units over 350,000 BTU.
All that I can say after many hours of use for the past two years no issues at all. It still continues to perform as expected. The kit replaces the same piece that I cut the hole in. Not sure what piece you are referring to.
@@KensKorner As far as I can tell, the main reason for the air intake ducting is to prevent a negative pressure inside a conditioned space or one which is tightly sealed. Its in a shed, so I'm pretty sure there isn't an issue with conditioned air loss, and (also because its a shed) there is likely plenty of 'air leaks' into the shed as not to restrict air flow.
Not likely to catch fire does not get that hot. Heat gun shows 100-110 at the top. Wood starts to char at 450 to 500, so not even close. It's been in operation over two years and no issues.
I would always always buy the proper certified parts to vent the heater properly. it doesn't pay to rig and hack things up on your own because you want to save a few bucks. Piece of mind that it's done correctly from manufacturers instructions goes a long way my friend.
also, single wall venting needs a minimum of 9 inches clearance to combustibles and cannot Penetrate a roof line. your plywood is going to catch fire. please be safe
Ken - I installed mine can you share what you ended up doing for your condensation valve?
I have a Hayward H250FDN heater to replace my 25 year old Hayward Comfortzone in my pool shed. The existing heater venting is 7" with an even larger collar attached to the heater. The H250 manual indicates the new heater requires 6" venting. Can I simply use your procedure but change the collar to a 6" and then use a 7" to 6" reducer on the existing stack to attach it to the new 6" collar on the new H250?
I'm trying to find someone in Dallas to build a shed and vent my heater (like you did) but nobody wants to do it! Can you share how you built your shed? Also, did you every put a valve in for condensation? Would love to see what you did.
Hey there! Great video! Where did you get the coupler piece and what is it called?? Thanks.
Josh
I got the coupler at Home Depot and it's called "8 in. Air-Tite Take-Off" from Master Flow. Thanks for watching!
Hey Ken, in the kit they sell online it has a few other parts that look like they are wires and electrical in nature. Do you know what those other parts are and if they are necessary? I have a smaller Hayward 150 so I’m not sure if they are specific to my heater but thought I’d ask.
Martin, that's a good question, yes I researched those out and they are pressure switches. I was worried that the unit would shut off due the possible pressure differences. So I was prepared to purchase those separately if needed. Lucky for me the modifications that I performed did not require the new pressure switch. I have a feeling that if you did a horizontal installation that would require a switch change out but sense I was doing a vertical (Less Restrictions) installation it was not required to perform a change out in the switch.
Did you find these parts at a local Home Depot? Thanks for posting this. I’m going to need to do the same thing.
Yes, they can be found at Home Depot, that's one of my favorite places to go to!
The collar you used looked like a one for air conditioning . Did the sticky collar material melt?
Nope, does not appeared to be melted. I also screwed it down to make sure it cannot move. That was a concern from me as well.
Major issue with this video though and why you should buy the kit. The kit comes with a steel intake vent that you need to change on the interior of the Hayward to increase the air flow when Hayward is enclosed and vented exterior. While the piping mod is great, you also need to adjust the intake side of the equation. Hayward specifically calls this out in the manual especially for units over 350,000 BTU.
All that I can say after many hours of use for the past two years no issues at all. It still continues to perform as expected. The kit replaces the same piece that I cut the hole in. Not sure what piece you are referring to.
@@KensKorner As far as I can tell, the main reason for the air intake ducting is to prevent a negative pressure inside a conditioned space or one which is tightly sealed. Its in a shed, so I'm pretty sure there isn't an issue with conditioned air loss, and (also because its a shed) there is likely plenty of 'air leaks' into the shed as not to restrict air flow.
Not certified and fire hazard.
Not likely to catch fire does not get that hot. Heat gun shows 100-110 at the top. Wood starts to char at 450 to 500, so not even close. It's been in operation over two years and no issues.