Did everything you did....The same terminal on circuit board was cracked. Re soldiered it and got gas valve to open and fire. Thanks! You saved our pool season from being over!!!
That was more exciting than half the shows on TV. I was cheering at the end when it finally worked. Thanks for the info, I now feel a lot more comfortable opening mine to clean it and make sure it continues to work for years to come.
Ha ha. Thanks for the laugh 😅. Years ago when I first started making Videos , my wife said to me "nobody is going to watch a 40 minute video, the average RUclips viewer's attention span is 2 minutes" and she is correct but I explained to her my videos aren't geared for the "average " viewer. My videos are for that 1 person that wants to get the job done correctly, even if they've never picked up a tool in their life and they will sit and watch the entire video. People don't realize how hard it is to convey information in a video to a viewer that's never used tools or worked on their own vehicle. A repair that might take me 20 minutes with the camera off, takes at least 3 times as long with the camera on, plus editing and posting. A 20 minute repair can be several hours from start to finished video. I plan out every video for that 1 viewer who truly wants the help and my videos have helped many many people. My videos may not be the best but they give the correct information to get the job done and That's a Goal I Strive for. I'm glad my videos help people like yourself and I thank you for your comment.
Had the same issue with the same heater. Control board had same problem with solder at the same location. Fixed and still didn't work. Got tool from Lowes to open valve. Lots of crap in there. Clean it, bench tested, installed and fired up. Life saver. Almost replaced unit with used one for $600.00. Took one hour to repair. 🤑🤑🤑🤑
I can appreciate a guy that doesn't give up and waste money because he's ignorant or lazy! Nice job. We could use a dude like you in aviation maintenance.
I thought about aviation maintenance years ago. I took a different path. I'm doing well for myself and making videos to help people has been my hobby that is slowly turning into a full time job. Retirement from my career is right around the corner and I'm switching gears to do educational videos full time on RUclips. Thank you for the compliment. 🙂👍
I just want to add one thing to this list amazing videos. After a long winter the Fan itself may simply get stuck in place. Opening the top as shown in the video then turning it a few times restarts it. Thank you so much for this video!!!
This was one of my issues. The whole thing appeared dead but just a simple manual turn of the fan and the blower started right up! Still no flame; that’s next…
this was the best overview of the problem that i was having after almost 2 years of searching. I finally forced myself to watch the entire thing, make notes and actually fixed my heater. My problem was that the control board (like yours) had some broken solder connections. I'm too stubborn to buy a new heater, or even throw parts at it. Thank you for the helpful video.
Thank you - saved another heater and ~$350 - $2k. DH soldered the connections - he didn't see any cracks, but soldered them for good measure, reinstalled it, and it fired right up and has continue. We went without it all last year because he wasn't sure what to do.
The leads on the bottom of the circuit board are exactly what was wrong with mine. I used lead free pipe solder to fix it 😂 but it worked. 2 years of frustration. Thank you so much!
Couldn’t figure out why mine stopped working. I had done most of the stuff but after watching I pulled the jets out and cleaned them and that was it. Heat again. Been looking for other videos for weeks. Glad I finally found yours. Thanks!
Had the same problem. Took the board out and found 4 cracked solder joints. Resoldered them and heater fired right up. Great video. Can not thank you enough. Local pool business wouldn’t even come out and look at it.
Michael Brady, Good you got yours fixed. I didn't see any cracked joints or traces on mine, and tried replacing some components.. Maybe I'll have to just run over all of them. What I was able to do is get an ignition module from a Raypak heater and modify it to work with my heater. My Hayward has 120V going through the safety sensors and thermostat switch and then to the ignition module if all the sensors are OK. The Raypak ignition is 24V AC. So I fed my sensor input to a 120/24 volt AC adapter (from a door bell), and fire up the Raypak module with that, then the "valve" output of the module feeds a 24V AC relay, which then provides 120v to my gas valve. If anyone else has this issue, there is similar module for about $100 made for RV Fridges, furnaces and Hot water heaters that could be used. These also have the 3 try lockout with flame sensing through the spark wire. dinosaurelectronics.com/Ignitor_boards.htm (or search ebay for dinosaur electronics.
My next idea is use either a WiFi Furnace Thermostat or make a thermosat from a Arduino ESP8266 and sensors, so I can turn the heater off/on and adjust and monitor the pool temp from anywhere. !!!
I'm looking at using a Sonoff TH10 with a DS18B20 to remotely control the heater, and be able to see the temp from anywhere in the world. It's a pretty easy setup. The DS18B20 can replace the thermal sensor bulb that is in the water line input, and turn the heater temp control to full high. The 2 parts are only about $30. I'd likely have to mount it inside a waterproof box outside of the heater for the wifi signal to be strong enough to reach the house.
Followed your steps and Bingo!!!!, Found my problem. My water pressure sensor terminal was a bit corroded...clean it and started working like new. Thank you for posting this troubleshoot vid!
I have the same heater. I bought It almost 20 years ago. The blower assembly that is on your model has been made obsolete. I had a problem that it would stop and restart occasionally. It would just flame out and then restart in a minute. I thought it was due to the water pressure switch doing what it is supposed to do. When I changed the fan because it went bad I received a different fan, air pressure switch, Air inlet plate and new gas jets. On the Left side of the air inlet plate it is no longer circular but partially restricted. I assume this it to give a richer mixture on the burner assembly under the Igniter/ Flame rod assembly. That solved the problem with occasional flame outs.
Good info. I have the same heater running on NG. I bought it used with a small leak in the heat exchanger, but after a few attempts brazing it, finally got it sealed up and it worked great for about a month last fall.. then wouldn't fire up. I have traced it to a problem on the control board. The relay isn't getting enough voltage or a steady voltage to hold on, so the gas valve doesn't open. I put an LED in series with a resistor across the relay coil and it flickers when the gas is supposed to turn on. I don't think there is very good power regulation on the board. I've replaced some on the caps and transistors on the board but no luck yet. I wanted to mention that another check you could make is when you take the valve connector box off, you could check the resistance of each solenoid and make sure they are not open circuit. Also for those that are not familiar, there is a time delay built into the board. First the fan turns on (about 5-10 seconds) to remove any gas in the combustion chamber, then the sparker starts sparking, and then the gas valve opens, and hopefully it lights up. The board senses there is flame through the spark wire, because the flame creates a small resistance between the spark probe and the ground probe beside it. If these are corroded, it could shut the gas off after a few seconds. It will then pause a minute or so, then try re-ignite. This happens ONLY 3 times and then you have to turn the thermostat all the way off or release the safety switch, or unplug power to reset the control board. I can't believe they want $300-$400 for the control board. I found some on Amazon for a trailer furnace/fridge for about $100. Problem is they run on 12VDC so I'd have to add a 12 power supply, and a 12v relay connected to the "valve" terminal to power the 120v gas valve. .. but I think it will work... Might help someone else. I would be leary trying without the orifice in place though. I tried lighting mine with a long match stuck in the sparker hole (with sparker removed) and had quite a fire ball when it ignited.. .. Be safe!!
I did the resolder last year after discovering the broken joints. This year I have intermittent spark, and it would sometimes light off then shut down. Never found where it's stated the igniter gives feedback to confirm combustion. Just ordered a used control board. Did see what appears to be a small rectifier chip under the connector for gas valve. There is a lot more to these than it appears as after it seems to make some sort of switch to drop the voltage to only allow the main valve to stay open but mine wont.
Im a pool mechanic and Bravo. You could have saved a lot of time and trouble with exception that you learned from your tinkering around , but if you had just tapped the gas valve with a rubber mallet that might had free up your sticking valve.
jasongeo2 I worked on it in my free time over a few days, when I first hooked everything up and it wasn't working I tapped on the propane valve assembly before I filmed any video. I wished that would've fixed it. It took a bit of troubleshooting. I definitely learned on this project. Thank you for your comment.
Good day, You did a good Job at Explaining the process of checking the heater. I checked the computer board and like you were saying some solder joints were bad. thank you Ray
Ok Great! Yes this helps I will plumb it in line with the pool and isolate it off with valves if I need to replace but I have gone through everything and cleaned all contacts with electrical cleaner. The only issue I had taking the valve apart was the arm that pushes the valve open when you turn the blue knob on inside was rusted. I freed it up and took it out with the pin and cleaned it all up to move free. The rest looked good.
I watched the entire video thanks you saved me a lot of money. I just ordered and replaced the entire circuit board and it's running great. Thank you again
Thank you very much, you did an excellent job in showing how to trouble shooting the reasons my heater may not be working.... I'm looking forward to this weekend to start this project and feel very good I'll have it working. Again, thanks much God Bless!!!
ZFR Great Video !!! : Many thanx for you to take time to document it. I have the same model hayward (craigslist special) It was nat.gas and I put the propane conversion kit into it. With cooler nights I decided to finally get it plumbed in and hook it up to my ABG pool. I could tell the water pressure sensor was shot as the top cover basically fell off when I touched it. With that replaced I got it fired up 1 time but it shut back down. Following the video I pulled the ckt. board and suspected 1 of the terminal solder joints and re-soldered. Then I pulled the IDXVAL1931 gas valve when I pulled the back diaphragm cover there was moisture or a blackish light oil under it and the orange rubber was wrinkly and stretched. After cleaning it all up. I find the orange rubber is stretched and does not want to lay back down into the gas valves groove. In the video @38:15 when you lay the diaphragm into place it plops right into the groove. Mine is stretched and will not lay into the case groove. Would like to be able to source this diaphragm part rather than pay the $239 amazon wants for the whole valve. Anybody know how to get just this part? Thnx Todd Littleton, CO
I'm sorry to say I don't know of anywhere that sells a rebuild kit. They want to sell the whole thing because they don't "trust" the public to do natural gas/ propane repairs without blowing themselves up. You might have better luck to go to a heating supply house with assembly to find a diaphragm. Someone has to sell it. Thanks for the comment and good luck.
ZRF !!! That's exactly what I did, found a used one on the net out of ohio for $45. Popped the diaphragm off it and put it on the original white rodgers 36E32A-201 valve. Will reinstall and test again later today..
Well still struggling with this heater, It starts, fan blows, valve opens, hear the ignitor sparking, I smell propane but no light/flame. I am thinking all sensors are good. If I pull the vacum sensor wire the fan will still run but gas valve will not open and ignitor will not fire. So I am thinking it is just plain an igniton problem. Ohm'd out the ignitor and sanded up the electrodes. Curious what the gap should be for a good fat spark? Need to reinstall and test again. Pulled the burners out before. They are pretty bad looking (rusty) some plugged burner holes so I took a soft wire brush to them prior to my last test failure. There is some note about running this heater over 2000ft elevation and I am ~5300ft. Would mean it neeeds to be leaner but I doubt it would cause a no flame at all situation. Tempted to take my BBQ lighter to it...... Maybe some coleman latern fuel around the whole inside and then BBQ lighter haha not really
Yes..glade you reinstalled jets..I noticed that the last time you fired up they where sitting right there..lol....GREAT VIDEO thank you I will check that diaphragm area for rust..I also would like to check the coil to see if it completes a circuit any ideas with a multimeter please let me know..Also I need to install a gas line drop..by the inlet..that many people forget..it will catch that rust..
Mine is turning on the gas and firing for 5-10 seconds. Then the power is turned off from the purple wire on the gas valve shutting the flame down and the fan continues to run. I have cleaned the ignitor/ flame sensor. Also, reflowed the terminals which the harness plug in to. It is not verifying the flame is on. How can I go about troubleshooting without buying expensive parts? In my best guess it is either the board or ignitor/ flame sensor. Any idea? Awesome video! Thank you for taking time time to make it.
I have the exact same problem with my Hayward. I have jumped all of the wires and I get nothing once in awhile it will fire up and when this thing is running it runs fantastic. Heats 16 ft above ground pool in about 5 hours. I think I'm going to aim directly for that diaphragm on the bottom.
I have one just like it how do I know if it's propane or natural gas actually the heater was sitting around for 20 years so I thought I would give it a go
I appreciate your frustration. I am on my 3rd hayward h100id pool heater. Hayward support is pathetic. One thing I do now which seems to help is to remove the circuit board and take it inside for the winter. I may have just had the same problem as you. It started working when I tapped the diaphragm with a screwdriver handle (stuck??)
I followed the video meticulously : Still no fire up, hear gas 10 seconds , voltage 114-118 on top of gas valve, new ignitor clicking . Tore valve apart, re-soldered board crack near ignitor on board. Is gas pipe size critical? I have copper coil from furnace then 1/2 black pipe. Previous old tropic Isle worked fine.
Is difficult to diagnose over the internet. If your previous pool heater was 100k btu the size of the gas line should be comparable to the hayward and shouldn't make a difference. If the previous heater was smaller it could be a problem but it still should start, it may not have enough gas to keep it running. I think 1/2 would be a minimum, i had 3/4 gas line because I ran a long length from my propane tank to my heater. If you are testing it with the access panel off. Are you pressing the door safety cut off switch? Did you turn the thermost up to a warmer temperature just in case your water temperature and thermostat are close to same temp? Turn it all the way up while testing it won't hurt anything this way you know it will be calling for heat. Does the fan run at startup? Do you smell any gas when it opens the valve? Are the gas jets clear? I've seen tiny spiders make small webs inside and interfere with it starting and running. I blew out the whole gas tube it had a ton of rust particles on the inside. You hear it clicking, the ignitor at the end of the spark plug wire you said was new? Is the pool pump circulating while you are testing, that's one of the safety switches so it doesn't burn up the heat exchanger the pump has to be circulating even for a test run or it won't fire. I mean it sounds like you are real close to getting it to fire up. It's probably something real simple.
I have same heater for 12 seasons in Brooklyn NY , my issue is the heater fires up no problem but flame goes out after about 6 minutes. any idea if fixable? wouldn't mind getting another season or 2 out of it. I did take the Gas Valve apart top and the bottom like you did in this video. found nothing fugazi going on.
It's possible one of the hi limit switches on the back side of the heat exchanger is going bad. Or that's what it sounds like. At 13:08 in my video I show the switches on the tube where the water flows through to exchange the heat. The large one on the left is the pressure switch. To two small ones on the right are the hi limit switches. They are a safety switch that senses if the water gets too hot and shuts the system down. If you imagine the pool heater sensors they are all connected in a loop. If any meet the conditions they are designed for, circulation, fan, heat, fire, open or closed. Either run the heater or shut it down. The hi limit open and shut it down. So easiest way to test them is disconnect one at a time and connect the two wires together with a short piece of wire effectively jumping out the switch. Run the heater and see if it runs longer and fixes the problem. Try this with both switches and you should find one or both may have gone bad. Only do this to test for troubleshooting. Do not run the heater with the switches bypassed with a wire for an extended period of time unattended. If the heat exchanger were to overheat it wouldn't safely shut down and could burn up permanently damaging the pool heater. The hi limit switches are about $100 for both and come as a kit. I hope this helps. Let me know how you make out.
@@ZeroFuelRequired I appreciate the fast reply and troubleshooting assistance. I did bypass the Hi-Limit Switches and it stayed on a couple of minutes longer but the burners still turned off.
@@D-NICE33 ok before you do any more troubleshooting. Take the circuit board out and look at the solder connection I show at 5:14 in the video. Look really closely or get a magnifying glass, these cracks are extremely common. These connections might be getting warm after 5 minutes of running and lose connection because of the heat generated in the cracks in the solder. It's a very easy fix to reflow the solder. If you don't have a soldering gun homedepot or Lowes has a nice Weller soldering iron for $19. Watch how I reflow the solder if you haven't already. It's easy. Let me know if you find cracks.
@@ZeroFuelRequired When I first looked at the main board for cracks in the solder I didn't think it could be the problem, however after taking pictures and video so that I can zoom in and get a better look I did notice a few compromised solders ( not as bad as the ones in your video). after I soldered them I put everything back together and what do you know. It ran for over an hour with no issues. I turned it off because we will be getting a lot of rain. I am looking forward to using it tomorrow and or Saturday. This leads me to believe that you are a "STABLE GENIUS" and I thank you Very Much!!! Thanks for the fast replies and troubleshooting, attention to detail. It looks like I will be able to finish the season off in style. I am now SUBSCRIBED!
Awesome " How to!" Thx! I have had my H100d for 2 seasons (working fine) now. I bought used on the cheap. It came with a previous circuit board and fan switch that had already been replaced. I checked both boards and found no cold solder joints. Problem. Fan is not running. How do I diagnose that portion. Can I jump something or....how do I test the fan? When I jump all of the flow safety switches, the gas valve will open and it will ignite...just no fan running. Thanks again!
Can you test the ignition without the gas and water running? I went through the whole valve as you showed plugged it in to see if I could here sparking when pressing the button but don’t here spark or the fan doesn’t turn, mine is SC100 older one has been sitting for a few years but trying to test it without water running or gas as I will have to replace the regulator and pipe to the unit. Thanks
They all have a bunch of safety checks that have to be tripped to complete the circut, to allow gas to flow and ignition to spark. Water circulation will trip the flow switch to complete its part of the circuit. If the gas was burning and water wasn't flowing it could damage the heat exchanger. You could use a jumper wire to complete the circuit at the flow sensor but if it ignites I would shut it down right away so you don't damage the heat exchanger, remove the jumper and try again. Don't forget to remove the jumper wire when you are done. You want all safety checks working properly so the heater works properly. I hope this helps. Thanks for the question.
How warm/hot should be the water coming out. It's still early spring here in New Hampshire and pool water is very very cold. Everything seems to work and turn on but water doesn't seem very warm.
If the burner is going then it should be producing warm water. I don't know the temp off the top of my head at the outlet. You might be to feel the outlet hose I'd warmer than the inlet hose. If the pool water is 40 degrees, it would take constant running to raise it leas than 1 degree in an hour. Time to warm a pool varies. Copied from the interwebs Example: You have a 20,000-gallon pool and use a 125,000 BTU heater. Your water is currently 70 degrees F but you would like it to be a minimum of 80 degrees F. How long will it take before the pool water reaches 80 degrees F? 20,000 x 8.34= 166,800 lbs 166,800/125,000= 1.33 hrs to increase 1 degree 80-70= 10 degree difference 10 x 1.33= 13.34 hours of heating before the pool reaches 80 degrees F. In most cases, calculations for a heat pump and heater are optimistic. For heat pumps, the efficiency varies depending on the air temperature and therefore the calculations cannot account for cooler temperatures. The listed BTU size is when the air is quite warm. Gas heaters are more consistent, however, they are also less efficient. They are only about 80% efficient, which needs to be factored in. Also, you can always expect to lose heat overnight, increasing your overall heating time. After using this formula to calculate how long it takes to heat up your pool, it’s always a good idea to round up to account for heat loss and efficiency. The formula gives pool owners rough estimates, not exact times. A cold pool could take 24 hours to get the desired temp and then runs a lot let to maintan temp. Get a thermal cover to keep heat in when not in use. Hope this helps thanks for the question.
took the entire unit apart, fan is working, gas is flowing, ignitor is clicking but won't fire up. checked the control board and the red light is blinking 3 times, does this mean its the pressure switch? and could the pressure switch have something to do with the ignitor?
If gas is flowing and ignition is clicking then all the sensors are working to make it fire up. Have you clean the orifices I have one of them out at 12:25 in the video. A lot of times little spiders get in them and build tiny webs inside that restrict the gas flow. If it Sounds like it's flowing but it's not enough to ignite. Anything inside them or the orifices will prevent it from igniting. Try taking them out and cleaning them. Let me know how you make out.
Great video! Just replaced the gas valve in mine works great but I’m not sure if it’s pushing out the water hot enough. What temperature should the water be when it comes out of the heater. The pool is around 70 degrees right now. I would love some feedback!
Well the temp coming out shouldn't be scalding hot if that's what you're asking lol. It should only be noticeably warmer. There's a whole mathematical formula you can look up online to figure out how long it will take to heat your pool and how much fuel it will consume. But I'm not going into that. If heat exchanger was corroded inside and not correctly exchanging heat the heater would take forever to heat your pool. In reality depending on the size of your pool it should take 24 to 72 hours to raise the pool temp 20° and to help it get there faster Use a pool cover - Evaporation accounts for 70 percent of a pool’s heat loss, so put a lid on it when heating it up or when it’s not in use! And Remember To Retain a pool temperature of between 78-80 degrees. Every degree you raise the temperatures increases energy costs dramatically; keep water warm, but not spa-warm. And Lower the thermostat when the pool isn’t being used - If you don’t plan to use the pool for a few days, cover it and drop the thermostat to 70 degrees. For longer periods, shut the heater off. Install a fence or hedge to protect the pool from wind that will blow across the pool when not covered. That wind will suck there heat out of your pool and make your heater run more often. Just a few tip to save you some money. I hope this helps and thanks for the comment.
@@haydentrow9771 well if its not igniting or if it seems like it's not heating the pool's as fast as it normally would heat up. Like later in my video rust on the inside could clog the jets or small Spiders can build cobwebs inside the jets that would interfere with the amount of fuel that burns to get the right temperature. If you go to 12:25 in my video you can see the jets taken out. I forget the size of the wrench I used, but you can get the jets out with a short open end wrench like in the video. Look inside & through the orifices of the jets and see if they are clean. If they aren't blow through them with compressed air or a pipe cleaner etc etc. If there is rust plugged in the jets you'll have to take the whole gas valve assembly and tube that goes to the jets out of the heater as one assembly. It's the only way to take the gas tube off to blow rust out of it. I'm only saying to do this if the jets have rust plugged in them because the rust comes from the steel tube and there could be a whole lot more specks of rust sitting in the tub, to plug the jets up at another time. Spider webs only need to be blown out of the jets with compressed air. That's all you really have to do to keep the jets functioning nicely, is to keep them clear so they'll let the proper amount of gas in the chamber to get a proper burn temperature. P.S. (don't ever run a drill bit through the jet orifices you could make the holes larger and change the amount of flow of fuel to the combustion chamber screwing up the burn) I hope this helps and thanks for the question.
Seems like my comment was erased, not sure why or how? My issue is i'm finding that my Hayward H100ID was working exceptional well for the first 2 weeks. The chimney was producing heavy heat too. After 2 weeksthe Hayward seems to not heat the pool as well and the chimney still produces heat but much less. Is there a way to crack up the max temperature limit so it can heat the water hotter or slow down the water being pushed threw the heater so it has more time to heat? I had a technician come from Hayward but he said nothing is wrong with the heater and said he would raise the heating temperature. He raised the heating temperature by turning something inside. Is this even possible? IF so i need to crank my heater up more. What do you think? Any suggestion's.
I don't know what happened either. I wrote a long reply to your first comment and my comment is gone too. I originally commented to make sure nothing is restricting the water flow in and out of the heater (leaves etc) it's got a flow switch if it didn't have enough flow it would shut off. It has two temperature sensors but I don't think they are your problem. There's a possibility a sensor is off and is shutting it off too early reducing the temp. When the water is up to temp or thinks it is up to temp it shut the burner down. Does your heater put out steady constant heat out of the chimney? Sounds like it doesn't. Try this: If required, burners can be cleaned in the following manner: 1. Turn pump, main gas valve and heater power off. 2. Remove the gas manifold. 3. Remove the burners. 4. Brush burners with a wire brush and check that they are free of lint, dust and spider webs before each season of use. Burners with damaged ports must be replaced. 5. Make sure there isn't rust particles clogging the openings in the burner. Like in my video I had a ton of rust particles in the burner pipe and in the gas regulator. The particles could be reducing the flow of the gas coming out the burner, which would reduce the heat it would produce. The tech you had might have made an adjustment to the gas regulator which I don't advise. I hope this helps.
I found out a lot about these by working on them and reading the description of how it works. They will not ignite if it doesn't sense a flame. The electrode that lights it is actually also the flame sensor and it senses the plasma of the burning gas between the burning flame of gas and that ignition sensor so with the Jets out I think you're going to have a no-ignition my friend. Also bypass those sensors one by one the first is water flow the other two arehigh and low temp limit and the last is the fan blower sensor try that and let me know what you get and if you need it I have a gas valve for natural gas that u may have already changed. Don't know how old this vid is.
Thanks for the comment but it doesn't help, If you had watched the video you would have seen that I troubleshooted the entire system and had a problem with the circuit board that prevented it from producing spark. Then when i fixed it and it was operational, it wasn't turning the gas on. I solved those issues and it fired right up heating my pool.
hi, thanks for the video. i checked everything, i found 2 cracked solder connections, and still no gas flowing. i checked the "solenoid" (top left piece above the gas on/off valve) with the ohm function of my tester and nothing. can you tell if the solenoid should read a "0" value or nothing should happen? i then checked the item on the top right corner with the ohm function and this one read a "0" value. that is the reason i'm asking for the solenoid... thanks for any help here
Imagine the sensors in the top of the heater are in a loop, if one of them isn't working it disconnects the loop. If all of them are working it completes the loop and it should start and run. You could disconnect the first sensor and last sensor. Then put a jumper wire between to test to see if it runs. If it does then you know it's a sensor. It's not safe to run with the sensors disconnected for and period of time longer than to just test. You could disconnect each sensor one at a time and put a jumper wire to link the connection to test run. If all safety conditions are met with the sensors Power is allowed to the solenoid to electrify the coils in it to actuate it. This let's gas in to the nozzles to be ignited. I never put an ohm meter on the gas solenoid so I couldn't tell you what it should read. It probably has some kind of zero ohm reading but you've fixed your board, verify all your sensors are working properly. If all conditions are met there should be voltage coming to the solenoid to actuate it. Hope this helps.
@@ZeroFuelRequired hi, thanks for this. i actually forgot to check the loop you mentioned but i did test each sensor (the 2 temperature sensors, the pressure one and the thingy up top of the heater next to the fan) with the ohm meter and they are good. i will check any way the loop to make sure it's all good. as per the solenoid, i'll check if power comes in and then remove the solenoid and check it with a 9v battery and we'll see if the piston moves in... thanks. i'll let you know if i learn anything new. Best
@@ZeroFuelRequired PROBLEM SOLVED..... i checked if power was supplied to the little black box on the gas manifold: YES power is supplied through the wires (double white and purple/bleu), then when you flip the black box, they are 2 sets of 2 holes supplying power to the solenoid on the left and the other devices on the right. the 2 holes on the right (other device) get 120V and the 2 holes on the left (solenoid) get 235V - yes really 235V. therefore power is there. so what could it be??? well, when replacing the black box, i noticed that the black box had some wiggling room. I then removed the black box again, spaced out a bit each set of pins for the solenoid and for the other device, replace the black box (no more wiggling) and turned ON and it FIRED UP...
I have an Aqualink RS8 controller with some wires, Green (ground), Red (hot), Pool [Yellow], Spa [Black], and Common [white] . Which of the leads go to which connection on the heater (Spa[1), Common[2], Pool [3]) at 17:14?
www.swimming-pool-information.com/images/Jandy-Aqualink-RS-circuit-board.jpg top left corner has the 4 pin connector w/ Ground, Pool, Spa, and Hot wires.
I may not be of any help. First on the Hayward heater the Red wire coming out of the circuit board is hot 110v connecting to (air pressure switch- senses blower fan running) then red wire to (temperature limit- water) then yellow wire to (temperature limit- water) then red wire to (water pressure switch- senses the water circulation) then blue wire to (temperature switch thermocontact- senses fire) when all conditions are met with all the switches and sensors above it tells the circuit board to send 110v to the gas valve the violet wire [1] and from [1] is a jumper wire to [3]. [2] connection is white wire common. Green wire is ground to the unit. I am not familiar with your controller. Yout can download pdf of your manual here www.google.com/url?q=www.jandy.com/~/media/zodiac/global/downloads/0748-91071/6919.pdf&sa=U&ved=0ahUKEwjz5Ir118XbAhVIxoMKHZyAAuUQFggdMAI&usg=AOvVaw2vxjBR5AC3iiPoogr86JHH Obviously the white- would be hooked to common and green- ground wire to ground. The question or problem is between your Red, yellow, green and black. The best I can figure is those connections go to your (all button controller, I assume there is a micro controller running from the all button that may control the heater. There's may be wires more wires needed. Your best bet would be get a technician familiar with your controller to set it up. I don't know if I can be of any more help?
well if you have spark and and gas and its still not igniting. So I'd have to say, If you haven't cleaned the spark electrode, follow the spark plug wire down from the circuit board to the flame box and unscrew it. Then take it out and lightly sand the ends where they come together with fine sandpaper. Reinstall the spark electrode. They are about $75 new so be careful with it, you don't want to break it. If it's got spark and the gas is running it should ignite, but if it doesn't have the right amount of gas flowing it wont ignite. So later in my video I show rust on the inside the gas tube going to the jets could clog the jets or small Spiders can build cobwebs inside the jets that would interfere with the amount of fuel that burns to get it to ignite. If you go to 12:25 in my video you can see the jets taken out. I forget the size of the wrench I used, but you can get the jets out with a short open end wrench like in the video. Look inside & through the orifices of the jets and see if they are clean. If they aren't blow through them with compressed air or a pipe cleaner etc etc. If there is rust plugged in the jets you'll have to take the whole gas valve assembly and tube that goes to the jets out of the heater as one assembly. It's the only way to take the gas tube off to blow rust out of it. I'm only saying to do this if the jets have rust plugged in them because the rust comes from the steel tube and there could be a whole lot more specks of rust sitting in the tub, to plug the jets up at another time. Spider webs only need to be blown out of the jets with compressed air. That's all you really have to do to keep the jets functioning nicely, is to keep them clear so they'll let the proper amount of gas in the chamber to get a proper burn temperature. P.S. (don't ever run a drill bit through the jet orifices you could make the holes larger and change the amount of flow of fuel to the combustion chamber screwing up the burn) I hope this helps and thanks for the question.
The first thing I'd check is the circuit board, that runs the ignition. In the video I show the solder cracks on the wires going into it and loses connection. If that's the problem, Re-solder and you might be back in business.
In the video, yellow gas valve is shut off at 2:09 and wouldnt start, but turned on at 40:03 when you fire it up. Was the diaphragm really stuck or was the main yellow handle gas valve just off?
troy king I filmed this last October over a few nights of free time with a flashlight in one hand and a cell phone in the other. It's challenging to film while doing a repair and trying to show what needs to be shown to make a repair understandable. After I'm done filming the entire job, I sometimes spend a few hours editing the entire video. There were multiple edits and the first time I explained it I had the gas on troubleshooting it, when I realized my board was part of the problem I had shut the valve off while troubleshooting and when I went to record what I show from 2:09 on I forgot to turn it back on. I edited out the first take and didn't realize the gas wasn't on in the second or the third take until you mentioned it lol. I never even noticed while editing. That's very observant of you, being you can only see the yellow valve for a split second. The circuit board had some broken solder connections keeping it from turning on the gas valve. Yes the diaphragm was stuck to the metal when I took it apart and was definitely a reason the gas wouldn't flow. I also cleaned a lot of rust particles out to keep from clogging the jets. Believe me I was pulling my hair out trying to figure this thing out. I hope that answers your question and I hope my video helped you out. Thank you.
Thanks for the reply. It had just looked like the valve was off during the 1st test and back on during the 2nd test. Editing the video sure makes sense as to why it didn't make sense to me. Glad you got it fixed.
Look at the solder connections on the power supply board like I show in the video. The solder connections can crack and lose connections. It's simple to resolder them and you could be up and running for virtually no money.
Check to see if the diverter plate inside the large pipe of heat exchanger (between the inlet and outlet connections) has come loose. This causes water to stay stuck in the heating coils and it boils and causes the noise. I just had this issue and used a small stainless steel hose clamp around the pipe the thermostat sensor goes in, to hold the plate in place. Just posted a video on this .
I have one of these and after it turns on and hot exhaust is coming out the top it click and bumps and shakes around. I'm not sure what that is but the water does not come out warmer than 80 or so degrees. Any ideas?
Steve Konwent check to make sure there isn't any blockage in your inlet pipe. If the flame is going but shuts off after running for a little bit, could be temp sensor going bad. If it runs heating nonstop, your heat exchanger could be rusty on the inside or partially clogged restricting the flow that would in turn feel like it's only about 80 degrees.
Steve Konwent I don't know an exact temp it should be coming out. The water exiting the outlet shouldn't be hot enough to burn you, that could be very unsafe. You figure it's gotta be warm enough to heat your entire pool. I'm only guessing here 90 to 100 degrees. Any colder than that I would think it would just run and run. I hope this helps.
I was given one of these - I connected it to the grill propane tank and tried it - after a few tries it stated and was heating the wate but it started it trip the GFI circuit breaker. I did get it wet putting the hoses on. I let it dry over night and tried again. it started and ran 10ish minutes and went out. I restarted it and it ran for a bout a 1/2 hour. I turned it off and on the 3rd attempt the exhaust fan stated to spin and the GFI would trip. Any ideas what may be causing this? I read mixed reports that these heaters should not be on a GFI circuit - any assistance you can give would be greatly appreciated.
IS you're GFI in the outlet? That could be the problem. Mine has always been on GFI but my GFI is in the electrical panel. Also GFIs do go bad. Try replacing it and see if you still have problems.
@@ZeroFuelRequired The GFI is in the panel 220 it runs the pool filter and I have 1 leg running a 110 outlet near the filter that I typically use for the winter to suck water off the top when its covered. I also plugged the heater into a second separate GFI plug (the one that the washing machine uses) and it did the same thing. Both GFIs are used daily without issues. The Heater runs for about 10 minute then trips the GFI. If I give it a little bit I can restart the heater it will run 10 minutes and then it trips the GFI. I was given the heater so I don't know its history. I did not install the external ground but I can;t see why this would cause it to trip the GFI the 110 cable is grounded. Any other suggestions ?
@@DoubleD4963 there shouldn't be any kind of water leaks inside. Just visually look around to make sure there isn't any. If it's starting and running for 10 minutes all the sensors inside are working properly. GFI senses an arc fault down to a millivolt or less. Something is creating an arc that's back feeding and tripping the GFI. There are two things that come to mind and I would check both. At 5:10 in my video I show a very common problem with the circuit panel where the solder cracks. There's a possibility that it takes 10 minutes to warm the solder connection and if it's cracked that it expands when getting warm then it disconnects creating an arc that trips the GFI. Or The ignitor wire (8mm sparkplug wire) has a break in it somewhere which was allowing the higher voltage to the ignitor but was not allowing the low voltage back to the contol panel to keep the gas valve open. A break could somehow be tripping the GFCI circuit breaker. Try replaced the wire with a "temp" wire. Or it's a possibility of a bad ignitor. I hope this helps, thanks for the question.
@@ZeroFuelRequired Thank you so very much for the reply. My next step was going to be to check the solder joints with a magnifying glass (eyes not what they used to be). You mention the igniter wire, shouldn't that be ruled out since its started/fired up and running? That cycle should be done no ?
@@DoubleD4963 well just like in a car, spark plug wires do go bad. They can arc making a car engine misfire. The arc coming from spark plug wires can be seen in the dark. Well same thing for the ignitor wire except that arc could be tripping the GFI (it doesn't take much of an arc to trip one) . These Hayward pool heaters are older and there's a possibility the ignitor wire is going bad. I hope this helps.
I bought this heater last year used for 75 dollars. She said it worked so there is some trust there. I dont want to run the gas line all the way to the pool to find out this thing doesnt work. I do have a gas line running out of the house for a grill. i have it pluged into this gas line but my question does the watter need to be hooked up for this thing to run?
Wherever the power comes from Double check that the circuit breaker isn't tripped. Try plugging something else into the outlet to make sure there is power coming to the outlet. Circuit breakers do go bad and so do GFI. Or the outlet could have gone bad. If you have power coming to it. Then your going to need a volt meter to check to see if you've got voltage inside and start checking the circuit board and sensors to see what quit working. Hope this helps.
Hola, soy el hijo del creador de este canal. Estoy trabajando en la creación de subtítulos en español para ti y hasta ahora la mitad del video está subtitulado. Puede que no sea 100% preciso porque no soy un hablante nativo de español, pero espero que pueda ayudarte.
If you watch the starting with the 1st 15 seconds of the video I explain the fan circuit. If your fan isn't running then one of the sensors isn't completing the circuits. You'll need an ohm meter to check for continuity and Watch the video. Thanks for the question and good luck.
I have same heater , it starts and fires and gets gas and runs. After a few minutes the gas stops and it still runs but stops firing What could it be? The exhaust goes from hot to cold Any help appreciated
I will check those , thanks My circuit board has a red light on it and it flashes constantly after the 2nd time it fires and goes out and keeps flashing til I shut it off and start over Flame goes out after about 5 seconds Hopefully it's one of the those connections
Look through the little flame inspection window and see if the flame is lit constant while it's running or is it out and comes on when it makes the backfire sound ?
Did everything you did....The same terminal on circuit board was cracked. Re soldiered it and got gas valve to open and fire. Thanks! You saved our pool season from being over!!!
I'm glad my video helped. Thank you for the comment.
That was more exciting than half the shows on TV. I was cheering at the end when it finally worked. Thanks for the info, I now feel a lot more comfortable opening mine to clean it and make sure it continues to work for years to come.
Ha ha. Thanks for the laugh 😅. Years ago when I first started making Videos , my wife said to me "nobody is going to watch a 40 minute video, the average RUclips viewer's attention span is 2 minutes" and she is correct but I explained to her my videos aren't geared for the "average " viewer. My videos are for that 1 person that wants to get the job done correctly, even if they've never picked up a tool in their life and they will sit and watch the entire video. People don't realize how hard it is to convey information in a video to a viewer that's never used tools or worked on their own vehicle. A repair that might take me 20 minutes with the camera off, takes at least 3 times as long with the camera on, plus editing and posting. A 20 minute repair can be several hours from start to finished video. I plan out every video for that 1 viewer who truly wants the help and my videos have helped many many people. My videos may not be the best but they give the correct information to get the job done and That's a Goal I Strive for. I'm glad my videos help people like yourself and I thank you for your comment.
Awesome troubleshooting, and repair. This will help me allot. Thanks, Wood
Had the same issue with the same heater. Control board had same problem with solder at the same location. Fixed and still didn't work. Got tool from Lowes to open valve. Lots of crap in there. Clean it, bench tested, installed and fired up. Life saver. Almost replaced unit with used one for $600.00. Took one hour to repair. 🤑🤑🤑🤑
That's awesome! 😉👍
Same issues. Thanks. Wasted money on a new ignitor. This fella is the most patient guy ever!
I can appreciate a guy that doesn't give up and waste money because he's ignorant or lazy! Nice job. We could use a dude like you in aviation maintenance.
I thought about aviation maintenance years ago. I took a different path. I'm doing well for myself and making videos to help people has been my hobby that is slowly turning into a full time job. Retirement from my career is right around the corner and I'm switching gears to do educational videos full time on RUclips. Thank you for the compliment. 🙂👍
36 yrs in aircraft mx. Belive me, if I put something to the curb its definitely junk
I just want to add one thing to this list amazing videos. After a long winter the Fan itself may simply get stuck in place. Opening the top as shown in the video then turning it a few times restarts it.
Thank you so much for this video!!!
Thank you for your comment and the Tip 😉👍
This was one of my issues. The whole thing appeared dead but just a simple manual turn of the fan and the blower started right up! Still no flame; that’s next…
this was the best overview of the problem that i was having after almost 2 years of searching. I finally forced myself to watch the entire thing, make notes and actually fixed my heater. My problem was that the control board (like yours) had some broken solder connections. I'm too stubborn to buy a new heater, or even throw parts at it. Thank you for the helpful video.
I'm glad my video could help. Thank you for your comment.
Thank you - saved another heater and ~$350 - $2k. DH soldered the connections - he didn't see any cracks, but soldered them for good measure, reinstalled it, and it fired right up and has continue. We went without it all last year because he wasn't sure what to do.
I'm glad my video helped. Thank you for the comment.
The leads on the bottom of the circuit board are exactly what was wrong with mine. I used lead free pipe solder to fix it 😂 but it worked. 2 years of frustration. Thank you so much!
Couldn’t figure out why mine stopped working. I had done most of the stuff but after watching I pulled the jets out and cleaned them and that was it. Heat again. Been looking for other videos for weeks. Glad I finally found yours. Thanks!
I'm glad I could help. Thanks for the comment.
I can’t say Thank You enough. Followed your video step by step and the heater is working perfectly. This video saved me hundreds of dollars.
I'm glad I could help. Thank you for the comment.
Had the same problem. Took the board out and found 4 cracked solder joints. Resoldered them and heater fired right up. Great video. Can not thank you enough. Local pool business wouldn’t even come out and look at it.
Michael Brady i'm glad I could help. Thank you for the comment.
Michael Brady, Good you got yours fixed. I didn't see any cracked joints or traces on mine, and tried replacing some components.. Maybe I'll have to just run over all of them. What I was able to do is get an ignition module from a Raypak heater and modify it to work with my heater. My Hayward has 120V going through the safety sensors and thermostat switch and then to the ignition module if all the sensors are OK. The Raypak ignition is 24V AC. So I fed my sensor input to a 120/24 volt AC adapter (from a door bell), and fire up the Raypak module with that, then the "valve" output of the module feeds a 24V AC relay, which then provides 120v to my gas valve. If anyone else has this issue, there is similar module for about $100 made for RV Fridges, furnaces and Hot water heaters that could be used. These also have the 3 try lockout with flame sensing through the spark wire. dinosaurelectronics.com/Ignitor_boards.htm (or search ebay for dinosaur electronics.
My next idea is use either a WiFi Furnace Thermostat or make a thermosat from a Arduino ESP8266 and sensors, so I can turn the heater off/on and adjust and monitor the pool temp from anywhere. !!!
ron klo linked with a raspberry pie ?
I'm looking at using a Sonoff TH10 with a DS18B20 to remotely control the heater, and be able to see the temp from anywhere in the world. It's a pretty easy setup. The DS18B20 can replace the thermal sensor bulb that is in the water line input, and turn the heater temp control to full high. The 2 parts are only about $30. I'd likely have to mount it inside a waterproof box outside of the heater for the wifi signal to be strong enough to reach the house.
Followed your steps and Bingo!!!!, Found my problem. My water pressure sensor terminal was a bit corroded...clean it and started working like new. Thank you for posting this troubleshoot vid!
Hielo I'm glad I could help and thank you for the comment.
I have the same heater. I bought It almost 20 years ago. The blower assembly that is on your model has been made obsolete. I had a problem that it would stop and restart occasionally. It would just flame out and then restart in a minute. I thought it was due to the water pressure switch doing what it is supposed to do. When I changed the fan because it went bad I received a different fan, air pressure switch, Air inlet plate and new gas jets. On the Left side of the air inlet plate it is no longer circular but partially restricted. I assume this it to give a richer mixture on the burner assembly under the Igniter/ Flame rod assembly. That solved the problem with occasional flame outs.
Good info. I have the same heater running on NG. I bought it used with a small leak in the heat exchanger, but after a few attempts brazing it, finally got it sealed up and it worked great for about a month last fall.. then wouldn't fire up. I have traced it to a problem on the control board. The relay isn't getting enough voltage or a steady voltage to hold on, so the gas valve doesn't open. I put an LED in series with a resistor across the relay coil and it flickers when the gas is supposed to turn on. I don't think there is very good power regulation on the board. I've replaced some on the caps and transistors on the board but no luck yet. I wanted to mention that another check you could make is when you take the valve connector box off, you could check the resistance of each solenoid and make sure they are not open circuit. Also for those that are not familiar, there is a time delay built into the board. First the fan turns on (about 5-10 seconds) to remove any gas in the combustion chamber, then the sparker starts sparking, and then the gas valve opens, and hopefully it lights up. The board senses there is flame through the spark wire, because the flame creates a small resistance between the spark probe and the ground probe beside it. If these are corroded, it could shut the gas off after a few seconds. It will then pause a minute or so, then try re-ignite. This happens ONLY 3 times and then you have to turn the thermostat all the way off or release the safety switch, or unplug power to reset the control board. I can't believe they want $300-$400 for the control board. I found some on Amazon for a trailer furnace/fridge for about $100. Problem is they run on 12VDC so I'd have to add a 12 power supply, and a 12v relay connected to the "valve" terminal to power the 120v gas valve. .. but I think it will work... Might help someone else. I would be leary trying without the orifice in place though. I tried lighting mine with a long match stuck in the sparker hole (with sparker removed) and had quite a fire ball when it ignited.. .. Be safe!!
ron klo thank you for the information and the comment.
I did the resolder last year after discovering the broken joints. This year I have intermittent spark, and it would sometimes light off then shut down. Never found where it's stated the igniter gives feedback to confirm combustion. Just ordered a used control board. Did see what appears to be a small rectifier chip under the connector for gas valve. There is a lot more to these than it appears as after it seems to make some sort of switch to drop the voltage to only allow the main valve to stay open but mine wont.
Im a pool mechanic and Bravo. You could have saved a lot of time and trouble with exception that you learned from your tinkering around , but if you had just tapped the gas valve with a rubber mallet that might had free up your sticking valve.
jasongeo2 I worked on it in my free time over a few days, when I first hooked everything up and it wasn't working I tapped on the propane valve assembly before I filmed any video. I wished that would've fixed it. It took a bit of troubleshooting. I definitely learned on this project. Thank you for your comment.
Thank you very much for posting this video. I was able to troubleshoot and fix my heater because of it. My family and I thank you!
You're welcome. I'm glad I could help. Thank you for the comment.
Nicely explained and thorough. Thanks for posting this.
Good day, You did a good Job at Explaining the process of checking the heater. I checked the computer board and like you were saying some solder joints were bad. thank you Ray
Ok Great! Yes this helps I will plumb it in line with the pool and isolate it off with valves if I need to replace but I have gone through everything and cleaned all contacts with electrical cleaner. The only issue I had taking the valve apart was the arm that pushes the valve open when you turn the blue knob on inside was rusted. I freed it up and took it out with the pin and cleaned it all up to move free. The rest looked good.
I watched the entire video thanks you saved me a lot of money. I just ordered and replaced the entire circuit board and it's running great. Thank you again
I'm glad I could help. Thank you for the comment. 😊👍
Thank you very much, you did an excellent job in showing how to trouble shooting the reasons my heater may not be working.... I'm looking forward to this weekend to start this project and feel very good I'll have it working. Again, thanks much God Bless!!!
Good luck and Thank you for the comment
Great video, admire your patience... tomorrow (or next day I have some time) I will test my...🤓👍
ZFR Great Video !!! : Many thanx for you to take time to document it. I have the same model hayward (craigslist special) It was nat.gas and I put the propane conversion kit into it. With cooler nights I decided to finally get it plumbed in and hook it up to my ABG pool. I could tell the water pressure sensor was shot as the top cover basically fell off when I touched it. With that replaced I got it fired up 1 time but it shut back down. Following the video I pulled the ckt. board and suspected 1 of the terminal solder joints and re-soldered. Then I pulled the IDXVAL1931 gas valve when I pulled the back diaphragm cover there was moisture or a blackish light oil under it and the orange rubber was wrinkly and stretched. After cleaning it all up. I find the orange rubber is stretched and does not want to lay back down into the gas valves groove. In the video @38:15 when you lay the diaphragm into place it plops right into the groove. Mine is stretched and will not lay into the case groove. Would like to be able to source this diaphragm part rather than pay the $239 amazon wants for the whole valve. Anybody know how to get just this part? Thnx Todd Littleton, CO
I have found that the same gas valve is a white rodgers valve 36E96-314 found for $174 so far....
I'm sorry to say I don't know of anywhere that sells a rebuild kit. They want to sell the whole thing because they don't "trust" the public to do natural gas/ propane repairs without blowing themselves up. You might have better luck to go to a heating supply house with assembly to find a diaphragm. Someone has to sell it. Thanks for the comment and good luck.
ZRF !!! That's exactly what I did, found a used one on the net out of ohio for $45. Popped the diaphragm off it and put it on the original white rodgers 36E32A-201 valve. Will reinstall and test again later today..
@@toddschiernbeck2760 Awesome! good luck!
Well still struggling with this heater, It starts, fan blows, valve opens, hear the ignitor sparking, I smell propane but no light/flame. I am thinking all sensors are good. If I pull the vacum sensor wire the fan will still run but gas valve will not open and ignitor will not fire. So I am thinking it is just plain an igniton problem. Ohm'd out the ignitor and sanded up the electrodes. Curious what the gap should be for a good fat spark? Need to reinstall and test again. Pulled the burners out before. They are pretty bad looking (rusty) some plugged burner holes so I took a soft wire brush to them prior to my last test failure. There is some note about running this heater over 2000ft elevation and I am ~5300ft. Would mean it neeeds to be leaner but I doubt it would cause a no flame at all situation. Tempted to take my BBQ lighter to it...... Maybe some coleman latern fuel around the whole inside and then BBQ lighter haha not really
thank you, you’ve got me headed down the right. No fuel from the gas valve either. I’ll check my valve this weekend. Thanks again!!!
The number of views on this video should tell you everything you need to know about these fucking heaters. Thanks for making this, by the way.
You are 100% correct 🤣🤣.. thank you for the comment.
Thank you! Back in business. A little solder to two connections on the board and good to go.
That's great. I'm glad I could help 😉👍
So impressive. Thanks so much for sharing. You are an inspiration.
Excellent troubleshooting Tex.
Yes..glade you reinstalled jets..I noticed that the last time you fired up they where sitting right there..lol....GREAT VIDEO thank you I will check that diaphragm area for rust..I also would like to check the coil to see if it completes a circuit any ideas with a multimeter please let me know..Also I need to install a gas line drop..by the inlet..that many people forget..it will catch that rust..
Thanks for this video. It will give me alot of areas to check to see if I can get mine working again.
Thanks for the comment and good luck.
WOW!!! you know every square inch of the heater. You must do this for a living, thanks hope all your trouble shooting saves me money.
Nice job .
Awesome patient.
Thank you for the comment.
You are the best . More people will have3rd or 4rt unit at this time
You are the best
Thank you for the comment.
Mine is turning on the gas and firing for 5-10 seconds. Then the power is turned off from the purple wire on the gas valve shutting the flame down and the fan continues to run. I have cleaned the ignitor/ flame sensor. Also, reflowed the terminals which the harness plug in to. It is not verifying the flame is on. How can I go about troubleshooting without buying expensive parts? In my best guess it is either the board or ignitor/ flame sensor. Any idea? Awesome video! Thank you for taking time time to make it.
Incredible video. Thanks for documenting your project.
I have the exact same problem with my Hayward. I have jumped all of the wires and I get nothing once in awhile it will fire up and when this thing is running it runs fantastic. Heats 16 ft above ground pool in about 5 hours. I think I'm going to aim directly for that diaphragm on the bottom.
I have one just like it how do I know if it's propane or natural gas actually the heater was sitting around for 20 years so I thought I would give it a go
I appreciate your frustration. I am on my 3rd hayward h100id pool heater. Hayward support is pathetic. One thing I do now which seems to help is to remove the circuit board and take it inside for the winter. I may have just had the same problem as you. It started working when I tapped the diaphragm with a screwdriver handle (stuck??)
Good advice. I would disconnect my heater, cap my gas line and put mine in the basement for the winter. Thanks for the comment.
You are a rock star
Thank you for watching and for the comment 😊👍
I followed the video meticulously : Still no fire up, hear gas 10 seconds , voltage 114-118 on top of gas valve, new ignitor clicking . Tore valve apart, re-soldered board crack near ignitor on board. Is gas pipe size critical? I have copper coil from furnace then 1/2 black pipe. Previous old tropic Isle worked fine.
Is difficult to diagnose over the internet. If your previous pool heater was 100k btu the size of the gas line should be comparable to the hayward and shouldn't make a difference. If the previous heater was smaller it could be a problem but it still should start, it may not have enough gas to keep it running. I think 1/2 would be a minimum, i had 3/4 gas line because I ran a long length from my propane tank to my heater. If you are testing it with the access panel off. Are you pressing the door safety cut off switch? Did you turn the thermost up to a warmer temperature just in case your water temperature and thermostat are close to same temp? Turn it all the way up while testing it won't hurt anything this way you know it will be calling for heat. Does the fan run at startup? Do you smell any gas when it opens the valve? Are the gas jets clear? I've seen tiny spiders make small webs inside and interfere with it starting and running. I blew out the whole gas tube it had a ton of rust particles on the inside. You hear it clicking, the ignitor at the end of the spark plug wire you said was new? Is the pool pump circulating while you are testing, that's one of the safety switches so it doesn't burn up the heat exchanger the pump has to be circulating even for a test run or it won't fire. I mean it sounds like you are real close to getting it to fire up. It's probably something real simple.
I have same heater for 12 seasons in Brooklyn NY , my issue is the heater fires up no problem but flame goes out after about 6 minutes. any idea if fixable? wouldn't mind getting another season or 2 out of it. I did take the Gas Valve apart top and the bottom like you did in this video. found nothing fugazi going on.
It's possible one of the hi limit switches on the back side of the heat exchanger is going bad. Or that's what it sounds like. At 13:08 in my video I show the switches on the tube where the water flows through to exchange the heat. The large one on the left is the pressure switch. To two small ones on the right are the hi limit switches. They are a safety switch that senses if the water gets too hot and shuts the system down. If you imagine the pool heater sensors they are all connected in a loop. If any meet the conditions they are designed for, circulation, fan, heat, fire, open or closed. Either run the heater or shut it down. The hi limit open and shut it down. So easiest way to test them is disconnect one at a time and connect the two wires together with a short piece of wire effectively jumping out the switch. Run the heater and see if it runs longer and fixes the problem. Try this with both switches and you should find one or both may have gone bad. Only do this to test for troubleshooting. Do not run the heater with the switches bypassed with a wire for an extended period of time unattended. If the heat exchanger were to overheat it wouldn't safely shut down and could burn up permanently damaging the pool heater. The hi limit switches are about $100 for both and come as a kit. I hope this helps. Let me know how you make out.
@@ZeroFuelRequired I appreciate the fast reply and troubleshooting assistance. I did bypass the Hi-Limit Switches and it stayed on a couple of minutes longer but the burners still turned off.
@@D-NICE33 ok before you do any more troubleshooting. Take the circuit board out and look at the solder connection I show at 5:14 in the video. Look really closely or get a magnifying glass, these cracks are extremely common. These connections might be getting warm after 5 minutes of running and lose connection because of the heat generated in the cracks in the solder. It's a very easy fix to reflow the solder. If you don't have a soldering gun homedepot or Lowes has a nice Weller soldering iron for $19. Watch how I reflow the solder if you haven't already. It's easy. Let me know if you find cracks.
@@ZeroFuelRequired When I first looked at the main board for cracks in the solder I didn't think it could be the problem, however after taking pictures and video so that I can zoom in and get a better look I did notice a few compromised solders ( not as bad as the ones in your video). after I soldered them I put everything back together and what do you know. It ran for over an hour with no issues. I turned it off because we will be getting a lot of rain. I am looking forward to using it tomorrow and or Saturday. This leads me to believe that you are a "STABLE GENIUS" and I thank you Very Much!!! Thanks for the fast replies and troubleshooting, attention to detail. It looks like I will be able to finish the season off in style. I am now SUBSCRIBED!
@@D-NICE33 Thank you for letting me know you were able to get it fixed and thank you for the comment. I'm glad I could help. 😉👍
Awesome " How to!" Thx! I have had my H100d for 2 seasons (working fine) now. I bought used on the cheap. It came with a previous circuit board and fan switch that had already been replaced. I checked both boards and found no cold solder joints.
Problem. Fan is not running. How do I diagnose that portion. Can I jump something or....how do I test the fan? When I jump all of the flow safety switches, the gas valve will open and it will ignite...just no fan running.
Thanks again!
Can you test the ignition without the gas and water running? I went through the whole valve as you showed plugged it in to see if I could here sparking when pressing the button but don’t here spark or the fan doesn’t turn, mine is SC100 older one has been sitting for a few years but trying to test it without water running or gas as I will have to replace the regulator and pipe to the unit. Thanks
They all have a bunch of safety checks that have to be tripped to complete the circut, to allow gas to flow and ignition to spark. Water circulation will trip the flow switch to complete its part of the circuit. If the gas was burning and water wasn't flowing it could damage the heat exchanger. You could use a jumper wire to complete the circuit at the flow sensor but if it ignites I would shut it down right away so you don't damage the heat exchanger, remove the jumper and try again. Don't forget to remove the jumper wire when you are done. You want all safety checks working properly so the heater works properly. I hope this helps. Thanks for the question.
Great video. I'm going to tackle my system now. Thanks!
I have no power at all. Or at least fan doesn’t turn on. It’s not connected to the plumbing. Does it need water flow to start?
Mine ignites but makes a rattling noise and a red light flashes on the circuit board??? I hope you can help.
How warm/hot should be the water coming out. It's still early spring here in New Hampshire and pool water is very very cold. Everything seems to work and turn on but water doesn't seem very warm.
If the burner is going then it should be producing warm water. I don't know the temp off the top of my head at the outlet. You might be to feel the outlet hose I'd warmer than the inlet hose. If the pool water is 40 degrees, it would take constant running to raise it leas than 1 degree in an hour. Time to warm a pool varies.
Copied from the interwebs
Example:
You have a 20,000-gallon pool and use a 125,000 BTU heater. Your water is currently 70 degrees F but you would like it to be a minimum of 80 degrees F. How long will it take before the pool water reaches 80 degrees F?
20,000 x 8.34= 166,800 lbs
166,800/125,000= 1.33 hrs to increase 1 degree
80-70= 10 degree difference
10 x 1.33= 13.34 hours of heating before the pool reaches 80 degrees F.
In most cases, calculations for a heat pump and heater are optimistic. For heat pumps, the efficiency varies depending on the air temperature and therefore the calculations cannot account for cooler temperatures. The listed BTU size is when the air is quite warm.
Gas heaters are more consistent, however, they are also less efficient. They are only about 80% efficient, which needs to be factored in. Also, you can always expect to lose heat overnight, increasing your overall heating time. After using this formula to calculate how long it takes to heat up your pool, it’s always a good idea to round up to account for heat loss and efficiency. The formula gives pool owners rough estimates, not exact times.
A cold pool could take 24 hours to get the desired temp and then runs a lot let to maintan temp. Get a thermal cover to keep heat in when not in use. Hope this helps thanks for the question.
Went through every step even resolder, diaphragm looked new, no crud. "IT'S A NO GO HUSTON" Can smell gas at turn on, no ignition
took the entire unit apart, fan is working, gas is flowing, ignitor is clicking but won't fire up. checked the control board and the red light is blinking 3 times, does this mean its the pressure switch? and could the pressure switch have something to do with the ignitor?
If gas is flowing and ignition is clicking then all the sensors are working to make it fire up. Have you clean the orifices I have one of them out at 12:25 in the video. A lot of times little spiders get in them and build tiny webs inside that restrict the gas flow. If it Sounds like it's flowing but it's not enough to ignite. Anything inside them or the orifices will prevent it from igniting. Try taking them out and cleaning them. Let me know how you make out.
Great video! Just replaced the gas valve in mine works great but I’m not sure if it’s pushing out the water hot enough. What temperature should the water be when it comes out of the heater. The pool is around 70 degrees right now. I would love some feedback!
Well the temp coming out shouldn't be scalding hot if that's what you're asking lol. It should only be noticeably warmer. There's a whole mathematical formula you can look up online to figure out how long it will take to heat your pool and how much fuel it will consume. But I'm not going into that. If heat exchanger was corroded inside and not correctly exchanging heat the heater would take forever to heat your pool. In reality depending on the size of your pool it should take 24 to 72 hours to raise the pool temp 20° and to help it get there faster
Use a pool cover - Evaporation accounts for 70 percent of a pool’s heat loss, so put a lid on it when heating it up or when it’s not in use!
And Remember
To Retain a pool temperature of between 78-80 degrees. Every degree you raise the temperatures increases energy costs dramatically; keep water warm, but not spa-warm.
And
Lower the thermostat when the pool isn’t being used - If you don’t plan to use the pool for a few days, cover it and drop the thermostat to 70 degrees. For longer periods, shut the heater off.
Install a fence or hedge to protect the pool from wind that will blow across the pool when not covered. That wind will suck there heat out of your pool and make your heater run more often.
Just a few tip to save you some money. I hope this helps and thanks for the comment.
Zero Fuel Required awesome thanks for the reply!
Another thing I wanted to ask is if you clean the burners on your heater often. Did it know if they should be cleaned and how would you clean them?
@@haydentrow9771 well if its not igniting or if it seems like it's not heating the pool's as fast as it normally would heat up. Like later in my video rust on the inside could clog the jets or small Spiders can build cobwebs inside the jets that would interfere with the amount of fuel that burns to get the right temperature. If you go to 12:25 in my video you can see the jets taken out. I forget the size of the wrench I used, but you can get the jets out with a short open end wrench like in the video. Look inside & through the orifices of the jets and see if they are clean. If they aren't blow through them with compressed air or a pipe cleaner etc etc. If there is rust plugged in the jets you'll have to take the whole gas valve assembly and tube that goes to the jets out of the heater as one assembly. It's the only way to take the gas tube off to blow rust out of it. I'm only saying to do this if the jets have rust plugged in them because the rust comes from the steel tube and there could be a whole lot more specks of rust sitting in the tub, to plug the jets up at another time. Spider webs only need to be blown out of the jets with compressed air. That's all you really have to do to keep the jets functioning nicely, is to keep them clear so they'll let the proper amount of gas in the chamber to get a proper burn temperature. P.S. (don't ever run a drill bit through the jet orifices you could make the holes larger and change the amount of flow of fuel to the combustion chamber screwing up the burn) I hope this helps and thanks for the question.
Great video!
Thank you for the comment.
Seems like my comment was erased, not sure why or how?
My issue is i'm finding that my Hayward H100ID was working exceptional well for the first 2 weeks. The chimney was producing heavy heat too. After 2 weeksthe Hayward seems to not heat the pool as well and the chimney still produces heat but much less. Is there a way to crack up the max temperature limit so it can heat the water hotter or slow down the water being pushed threw the heater so it has more time to heat?
I had a technician come from Hayward but he said nothing is wrong with the heater and said he would raise the heating temperature. He raised the heating temperature by turning something inside. Is this even possible? IF so i need to crank my heater up more.
What do you think? Any suggestion's.
I don't know what happened either. I wrote a long reply to your first comment and my comment is gone too.
I originally commented to make sure nothing is restricting the water flow in and out of the heater (leaves etc) it's got a flow switch if it didn't have enough flow it would shut off.
It has two temperature sensors but I don't think they are your problem. There's a possibility a sensor is off and is shutting it off too early reducing the temp.
When the water is up to temp or thinks it is up to temp it shut the burner down.
Does your heater put out steady constant heat out of the chimney? Sounds like it doesn't. Try this:
If required, burners can be cleaned in the following manner:
1. Turn pump, main gas valve and heater power off.
2. Remove the gas manifold.
3. Remove the burners.
4. Brush burners with a wire brush and check that they are free of lint, dust and spider webs before each season of use. Burners with damaged ports must be replaced.
5. Make sure there isn't rust particles clogging the openings in the burner. Like in my video I had a ton of rust particles in the burner pipe and in the gas regulator. The particles could be reducing the flow of the gas coming out the burner, which would reduce the heat it would produce.
The tech you had might have made an adjustment to the gas regulator which I don't advise.
I hope this helps.
I found out a lot about these by working on them and reading the description of how it works. They will not ignite if it doesn't sense a flame. The electrode that lights it is actually also the flame sensor and it senses the plasma of the burning gas between the burning flame of gas and that ignition sensor so with the Jets out I think you're going to have a no-ignition my friend. Also bypass those sensors one by one the first is water flow the other two arehigh and low temp limit and the last is the fan blower sensor try that and let me know what you get and if you need it I have a gas valve for natural gas that u may have already changed. Don't know how old this vid is.
Thanks for the comment but it doesn't help, If you had watched the video you would have seen that I troubleshooted the entire system and had a problem with the circuit board that prevented it from producing spark. Then when i fixed it and it was operational, it wasn't turning the gas on. I solved those issues and it fired right up heating my pool.
Tks for your information
hi, thanks for the video. i checked everything, i found 2 cracked solder connections, and still no gas flowing. i checked the "solenoid" (top left piece above the gas on/off valve) with the ohm function of my tester and nothing. can you tell if the solenoid should read a "0" value or nothing should happen? i then checked the item on the top right corner with the ohm function and this one read a "0" value. that is the reason i'm asking for the solenoid... thanks for any help here
Imagine the sensors in the top of the heater are in a loop, if one of them isn't working it disconnects the loop. If all of them are working it completes the loop and it should start and run. You could disconnect the first sensor and last sensor. Then put a jumper wire between to test to see if it runs. If it does then you know it's a sensor. It's not safe to run with the sensors disconnected for and period of time longer than to just test. You could disconnect each sensor one at a time and put a jumper wire to link the connection to test run. If all safety conditions are met with the sensors Power is allowed to the solenoid to electrify the coils in it to actuate it. This let's gas in to the nozzles to be ignited. I never put an ohm meter on the gas solenoid so I couldn't tell you what it should read. It probably has some kind of zero ohm reading but you've fixed your board, verify all your sensors are working properly. If all conditions are met there should be voltage coming to the solenoid to actuate it. Hope this helps.
@@ZeroFuelRequired hi, thanks for this. i actually forgot to check the loop you mentioned but i did test each sensor (the 2 temperature sensors, the pressure one and the thingy up top of the heater next to the fan) with the ohm meter and they are good. i will check any way the loop to make sure it's all good. as per the solenoid, i'll check if power comes in and then remove the solenoid and check it with a 9v battery and we'll see if the piston moves in... thanks. i'll let you know if i learn anything new. Best
@@ZeroFuelRequired PROBLEM SOLVED..... i checked if power was supplied to the little black box on the gas manifold: YES power is supplied through the wires (double white and purple/bleu), then when you flip the black box, they are 2 sets of 2 holes supplying power to the solenoid on the left and the other devices on the right. the 2 holes on the right (other device) get 120V and the 2 holes on the left (solenoid) get 235V - yes really 235V. therefore power is there. so what could it be??? well, when replacing the black box, i noticed that the black box had some wiggling room. I then removed the black box again, spaced out a bit each set of pins for the solenoid and for the other device, replace the black box (no more wiggling) and turned ON and it FIRED UP...
@@patrickgregoire3533 Glad you got it working. Good job! thank you for the update. 😊 👍🏻
Brilliant. Thanks.
I'm glad I could help. Thanks for the comment.
I have an Aqualink RS8 controller with some wires, Green (ground), Red (hot), Pool [Yellow], Spa [Black], and Common [white] . Which of the leads go to which connection on the heater (Spa[1), Common[2], Pool [3]) at 17:14?
f01.justanswer.com/JACUSTOMERhxqkkid0/2012-04-06_161009_img_45941.jpg shows the 4 pins
www.swimming-pool-information.com/images/Jandy-Aqualink-RS-circuit-board.jpg
top left corner has the 4 pin connector w/ Ground, Pool, Spa, and Hot wires.
I may not be of any help. First on the Hayward heater the Red wire coming out of the circuit board is hot 110v connecting to (air pressure switch- senses blower fan running) then red wire to (temperature limit- water) then yellow wire to (temperature limit- water) then red wire to (water pressure switch- senses the water circulation) then blue wire to (temperature switch thermocontact- senses fire) when all conditions are met with all the switches and sensors above it tells the circuit board to send 110v to the gas valve the violet wire [1] and from [1] is a jumper wire to [3]. [2] connection is white wire common. Green wire is ground to the unit. I am not familiar with your controller. Yout can download pdf of your manual here www.google.com/url?q=www.jandy.com/~/media/zodiac/global/downloads/0748-91071/6919.pdf&sa=U&ved=0ahUKEwjz5Ir118XbAhVIxoMKHZyAAuUQFggdMAI&usg=AOvVaw2vxjBR5AC3iiPoogr86JHH Obviously the white- would be hooked to common and green- ground wire to ground. The question or problem is between your Red, yellow, green and black. The best I can figure is those connections go to your (all button controller, I assume there is a micro controller running from the all button that may control the heater. There's may be wires more wires needed. Your best bet would be get a technician familiar with your controller to set it up. I don't know if I can be of any more help?
How about if you have gas, spark from the igniter but it doesn't ignite?
well if you have spark and and gas and its still not igniting. So I'd have to say, If you haven't cleaned the spark electrode, follow the spark plug wire down from the circuit board to the flame box and unscrew it. Then take it out and lightly sand the ends where they come together with fine sandpaper. Reinstall the spark electrode. They are about $75 new so be careful with it, you don't want to break it. If it's got spark and the gas is running it should ignite, but if it doesn't have the right amount of gas flowing it wont ignite. So later in my video I show rust on the inside the gas tube going to the jets could clog the jets or small Spiders can build cobwebs inside the jets that would interfere with the amount of fuel that burns to get it to ignite. If you go to 12:25 in my video you can see the jets taken out. I forget the size of the wrench I used, but you can get the jets out with a short open end wrench like in the video. Look inside & through the orifices of the jets and see if they are clean. If they aren't blow through them with compressed air or a pipe cleaner etc etc. If there is rust plugged in the jets you'll have to take the whole gas valve assembly and tube that goes to the jets out of the heater as one assembly. It's the only way to take the gas tube off to blow rust out of it. I'm only saying to do this if the jets have rust plugged in them because the rust comes from the steel tube and there could be a whole lot more specks of rust sitting in the tub, to plug the jets up at another time. Spider webs only need to be blown out of the jets with compressed air. That's all you really have to do to keep the jets functioning nicely, is to keep them clear so they'll let the proper amount of gas in the chamber to get a proper burn temperature. P.S. (don't ever run a drill bit through the jet orifices you could make the holes larger and change the amount of flow of fuel to the combustion chamber screwing up the burn) I hope this helps and thanks for the question.
Zero Fuel Required thank you for your time in replying and knowledge.
We have the same heater, been using it brand new for 3 months, runs, blows and we can smell the gas, but will not ignite.
The first thing I'd check is the circuit board, that runs the ignition. In the video I show the solder cracks on the wires going into it and loses connection. If that's the problem, Re-solder and you might be back in business.
What the problem if bed smell fr kenalpot .couse heater was 6 years
In the video, yellow gas valve is shut off at 2:09 and wouldnt start, but turned on at 40:03 when you fire it up. Was the diaphragm really stuck or was the main yellow handle gas valve just off?
troy king I filmed this last October over a few nights of free time with a flashlight in one hand and a cell phone in the other. It's challenging to film while doing a repair and trying to show what needs to be shown to make a repair understandable. After I'm done filming the entire job, I sometimes spend a few hours editing the entire video. There were multiple edits and the first time I explained it I had the gas on troubleshooting it, when I realized my board was part of the problem I had shut the valve off while troubleshooting and when I went to record what I show from 2:09 on I forgot to turn it back on. I edited out the first take and didn't realize the gas wasn't on in the second or the third take until you mentioned it lol. I never even noticed while editing. That's very observant of you, being you can only see the yellow valve for a split second. The circuit board had some broken solder connections keeping it from turning on the gas valve. Yes the diaphragm was stuck to the metal when I took it apart and was definitely a reason the gas wouldn't flow. I also cleaned a lot of rust particles out to keep from clogging the jets. Believe me I was pulling my hair out trying to figure this thing out. I hope that answers your question and I hope my video helped you out. Thank you.
Thanks for the reply. It had just looked like the valve was off during the 1st test and back on during the 2nd test. Editing the video sure makes sense as to why it didn't make sense to me. Glad you got it fixed.
Hopefully this will help me fix mine. I think I need a new power supply as when I plug it in nothing works.
Look at the solder connections on the power supply board like I show in the video. The solder connections can crack and lose connections. It's simple to resolder them and you could be up and running for virtually no money.
Mine sounds like a popcorn machine, I assume it's full of scale, or something, how can I take apart and clean that?
Check to see if the diverter plate inside the large pipe of heat exchanger (between the inlet and outlet connections) has come loose. This causes water to stay stuck in the heating coils and it boils and causes the noise. I just had this issue and used a small stainless steel hose clamp around the pipe the thermostat sensor goes in, to hold the plate in place. Just posted a video on this .
I have one of these and after it turns on and hot exhaust is coming out the top it click and bumps and shakes around. I'm not sure what that is but the water does not come out warmer than 80 or so degrees. Any ideas?
Steve Konwent check to make sure there isn't any blockage in your inlet pipe. If the flame is going but shuts off after running for a little bit, could be temp sensor going bad. If it runs heating nonstop, your heat exchanger could be rusty on the inside or partially clogged restricting the flow that would in turn feel like it's only about 80 degrees.
Thanks for the info, how hot should the water be coming out of the heater?
Steve Konwent I don't know an exact temp it should be coming out. The water exiting the outlet shouldn't be hot enough to burn you, that could be very unsafe. You figure it's gotta be warm enough to heat your entire pool. I'm only guessing here 90 to 100 degrees. Any colder than that I would think it would just run and run. I hope this helps.
I was given one of these - I connected it to the grill propane tank and tried it - after a few tries it stated and was heating the wate but it started it trip the GFI circuit breaker. I did get it wet putting the hoses on. I let it dry over night and tried again. it started and ran 10ish minutes and went out. I restarted it and it ran for a bout a 1/2 hour. I turned it off and on the 3rd attempt the exhaust fan stated to spin and the GFI would trip. Any ideas what may be causing this? I read mixed reports that these heaters should not be on a GFI circuit - any assistance you can give would be greatly appreciated.
IS you're GFI in the outlet? That could be the problem. Mine has always been on GFI but my GFI is in the electrical panel. Also GFIs do go bad. Try replacing it and see if you still have problems.
@@ZeroFuelRequired The GFI is in the panel 220 it runs the pool filter and I have 1 leg running a 110 outlet near the filter that I typically use for the winter to suck water off the top when its covered. I also plugged the heater into a second separate GFI plug (the one that the washing machine uses) and it did the same thing. Both GFIs are used daily without issues. The Heater runs for about 10 minute then trips the GFI. If I give it a little bit I can restart the heater it will run 10 minutes and then it trips the GFI. I was given the heater so I don't know its history. I did not install the external ground but I can;t see why this would cause it to trip the GFI the 110 cable is grounded.
Any other suggestions ?
@@DoubleD4963 there shouldn't be any kind of water leaks inside. Just visually look around to make sure there isn't any.
If it's starting and running for 10 minutes all the sensors inside are working properly.
GFI senses an arc fault down to a millivolt or less. Something is creating an arc that's back feeding and tripping the GFI.
There are two things that come to mind and I would check both. At 5:10 in my video I show a very common problem with the circuit panel where the solder cracks. There's a possibility that it takes 10 minutes to warm the solder connection and if it's cracked that it expands when getting warm then it disconnects creating an arc that trips the GFI.
Or The ignitor wire (8mm sparkplug wire) has a break in it somewhere which was allowing the higher voltage to the ignitor but was not allowing the low voltage back to the contol panel to keep the gas valve open. A break could somehow be tripping the GFCI circuit breaker. Try replaced the wire with a "temp" wire.
Or it's a possibility of a bad ignitor.
I hope this helps, thanks for the question.
@@ZeroFuelRequired Thank you so very much for the reply. My next step was going to be to check the solder joints with a magnifying glass (eyes not what they used to be). You mention the igniter wire, shouldn't that be ruled out since its started/fired up and running? That cycle should be done no ?
@@DoubleD4963 well just like in a car, spark plug wires do go bad. They can arc making a car engine misfire. The arc coming from spark plug wires can be seen in the dark. Well same thing for the ignitor wire except that arc could be tripping the GFI (it doesn't take much of an arc to trip one) . These Hayward pool heaters are older and there's a possibility the ignitor wire is going bad. I hope this helps.
I bought this heater last year used for 75 dollars. She said it worked so there is some trust there.
I dont want to run the gas line all the way to the pool to find out this thing doesnt work. I do have a gas line running out of the house for a grill. i have it pluged into this gas line but my question does the watter need to be hooked up for this thing to run?
David Schram yes it needs water to run. It senses the water circulating before it will turn on the heat
so if i just plug it in to gas an electric nothing should happen? (sorry for the stupid question and thanks for answering.
David Schram the blower fan should run but it won't ignite gas without water circulating. That's ok.
yeah its not coming on. could I run a garden house into this?
also if I just plugged it in I should be able to test all the circuits?
My heater just stopped working all together and I have the same heater.... my fan doesn’t even come on when I push the door switch in....
Wherever the power comes from Double check that the circuit breaker isn't tripped. Try plugging something else into the outlet to make sure there is power coming to the outlet. Circuit breakers do go bad and so do GFI. Or the outlet could have gone bad. If you have power coming to it. Then your going to need a volt meter to check to see if you've got voltage inside and start checking the circuit board and sensors to see what quit working. Hope this helps.
Dónde puedo ver este vídeo en español, ya que tengo este mismo calentador y dejo de calentar
Hola, soy el hijo del creador de este canal. Estoy trabajando en la creación de subtítulos en español para ti y hasta ahora la mitad del video está subtitulado. Puede que no sea 100% preciso porque no soy un hablante nativo de español, pero espero que pueda ayudarte.
My fan won't start what should I do
If you watch the starting with the 1st 15 seconds of the video I explain the fan circuit. If your fan isn't running then one of the sensors isn't completing the circuits. You'll need an ohm meter to check for continuity and Watch the video. Thanks for the question and good luck.
I have same heater , it starts and fires and gets gas and runs. After a few minutes the gas stops and it still runs but stops firing
What could it be? The exhaust goes from hot to cold
Any help appreciated
Check your solder connections on the circuit board like at 5:13 in the video.
I will check those , thanks
My circuit board has a red light on it and it flashes constantly after the 2nd time it fires and goes out and keeps flashing til I shut it off and start over
Flame goes out after about 5 seconds
Hopefully it's one of the those connections
That galvanized pipe could have been the problem.
Our heater is making a backfire sound
Look through the little flame inspection window and see if the flame is lit constant while it's running or is it out and comes on when it makes the backfire sound ?