I git where your coming from, back in the 70's I restored model A's and T's, but also worked on hotrods, later muscle cars etc. You learned what your tools were mean't for, you push thing to limits, learn from that, and teach others, perhaps even innovate, Enjoy your channel Sir! right on!
Great video. Thanks for sharing the insight. I've thought for a while the Spyderco Maxamet knives are generally well priced for what you get based on the manufacturing effort.
AWESOME JOB! I woulda snagged that but was a little too late on IG. I'm definitely not on your level but I had the same kind of trouble with one of my ZDP Delicas...I got to the point where I just gave up and said who cares! I only reground it for performance anyway...
I'm a chef and the smacking on the back of the hand to cut through an onion really got me LOL. People don't understand how much the knife thickness affects the cutting in a kitchen. It's crazy how much difference ten-thousands can make
Hi, 1000% correct. It's like you see a formula 1 car and say "this car is shit, I can not pull a trailer with it". Because it is built only for one reason, to go fast on a specific racetrack and for this task it's the best.
I always thought it would be cool if the pocket clips were ground into the shape of a lightning bolt for your regrinds. I mean if you took a day or two to test something like that out, that is time away from other projects. Not to mention the wear and tear on abrasives and the cost of the clips themselves. People want kickass performing knives so pocket clips should be the last thing on your mind.
I reground mine a while back and it was pretty difficult but at the same time I thought it was going to be worse. Mine got really thick because I kept having trouble during sharpening, it’s good now though.
Big Brown Bear oh yeah I bet. I didn’t do all that. I just left the vertical lines. It did patina a little with that finish. Compared to other steels I’ve ground, there was a big difference in difficulty with how resistant it is to grinding. Not to mention the constant dipping to keep the ht safe. It takes time. On the lower grits I think I was getting discoloration after dipping if I remember right. Good job man. I really want to try one of your knives or stones one day. I’m trying to get into a better job now.
What about just applying some gentle convex over say 5 mm behind the edge on the Manix? It wouldn’t be as slicey as FFG, but it might even have less drag in certain stuff while being less work/cost intensive regrind. About the blade removal - I only did one regrind so far (so I am in a great position to be a smart-butt), but I just tightly wrapped the handle in a PVC tape so no water and gunk could get into the pivot. It worked pretty well and the knife was easier to hold.
Hi, Matus Blending the primary into the secondary in a convex way as you describe is what I do on all my flatground knives. It works well to reduce the behind the edge thickness, provide the geometry I like, and allows you to shape the blended area as you like. Once I do that I Apex it with a true micro bevel. (Cannot be seen) I have the Native 5 and PM2 in Maxamet and it took about the same time as S110V to regrind the (secondary/blended) bevels on those. Not hard by any stretch of the imagination. Definitely cuts better, far less resistance, and overall it takes literally a few seconds to initially sharpen it and only a couple minutes to resharpen. (Until the convex blend needs reshaping again. Over time the blended area will increase in size to avoid edge thickening) I run the blended area around 4-5mm wide (initially) and apex it at around 12°-14° per side. Maxamet takes a real nice polish as well. (Spyderco medium and xxf and Diamond pastes for the blended area only)
@@Wolf_K I did about the same by hand on diamond stones on my k390 PM2 a few months back and it was not too bad - it does not look pretty now, but it increased the cutting abilities a lot (of course, the thinner edge is now a little less strong then before, but I don't cut electric cables with the knife).
@@matusknives I quite like the aesthetics of it. I’ve been doing it for years so maybe it grew on me…I don’t remember. I never did like V-edges though, they always felt awkward and low performance to me. If you blend the bevels and find that apex stability isn’t what you want just increase the apex degrees in 1-2° increments per side until it stabilizes. The shallow bevel will remain untouched and is quite irrelevant to the apex degrees you decide to use. That’s why I like true micro bevels; you can have both high cutting performance and good edge stability. With flat ground blended bevels I mirror polish them and people could be forgiven for thinking the apex is the same high grit. Often its only at #600/#700 on the cutting edge but because the very apex is so small it can’t be seen it appears to be at #15,000 or something. I don’t even apply the apex until I’ve polished the knife. It’s the last thing I do. I don’t know how familiar you are with Plateau Sharpening in the Cliff Stamp Method but I suggest you check it out if you’re not familiar with it as it can increase performance and technique to a high degree. You can check his channel here on RUclips and sites in my about section. Sadly, Cliff is no longer with us.
@@Wolf_K I can only agree (great detailed description, thanks). Only thing I would add - to avoid over-doing the convexing (which in a sense is also thinning the knife behind the edge) tend to sharpen the blade so a grit that looks 'shiny' enough, so that once I start doing the new bevel and then blending it, I can see where I am starting to approach edge cutting edge - so that I don't unintentionally go too far (I have learned this from sharpening Japanese and Japanese-style kitchen knife, where thinning is something one does more often). I will look out that Plateau Sharpening as I have not hear of it. BTW - do you do the geometry adjustments on stones and then smoothen out the finish on a belt grinder, or do you do all of it on stones? Or do you have a different method?
@@matusknives I use waterstones, Diamond plates, and occasionally oil stones so it’s all freehand. I don’t have a belt grinder. I’d like one as there’s some major reprofiling I’d like to do on more than a few knifes. Once you comprehend Plateau Sharpening it will become clear that you can never over do it and that the shape and polish of the bevel is irrelevant to the degrees and grit of the cutting edge (apex). It really opens up a whole new world of possibilities. In my opinion apexing should never be done on powered grinders unless one is using a significant amount of coolant, slow speeds, and high cutting efficiency belts. Why? Just observe any factory knife and the burnt edges are very apparent. This is the reason it often takes a few hand sharpenings for a new knife to stabilize at the apex….to remove the damaged steel from power grinding.
I know that there is no perfect "good for everything" steel but from my experience my personal fave is M390 for a knife that you plan to try and use for more than any specific task.... it's easy to sharpen and holds a great edge for a good amount of time, I EDC M390, elmax, s35vn and S30v and cruwear I just find I love my M390 knives for folders and for fixed blades I narrow it down to two my bark river 3v Aurora ghost jade and my A2 hogue ex-f01 9in... I can put both those knives thru anything and they still cut and still do what they're meant to do
as a medium high level amateur grinder... I can tell, this conversation comes from repetitive experiences, every person I have learned from has said the same thing Sean is saying
@@FearNoSteel yea I hear ya. I just assumed it would be faster due to the abrasives. But alas you are right about belt grinders. I know they have felt belts etc that can have cbn emulations added to them but they arnt used for hogging off material like this from what I remember. And I've only seen Cbn wheels for sharpening iirc. Would be great if they made some cbn belts but I'm sure they'd be expensive.
I git where your coming from, back in the 70's I restored model A's and T's, but also worked on hotrods, later muscle cars etc. You learned what your tools were mean't for, you push thing to limits, learn from that, and teach others, perhaps even innovate, Enjoy your channel Sir! right on!
You have to love Spyderco even for this exact reason. Just the best
Hey Shawn 👋. I saw you in a Millie pm2 para3 love last night . Good job brother . 👏.
Great video. Thanks for sharing the insight. I've thought for a while the Spyderco Maxamet knives are generally well priced for what you get based on the manufacturing effort.
Sitting here sharpening my maxamet and feel ya bro. Keep up the good work.
AWESOME JOB! I woulda snagged that but was a little too late on IG.
I'm definitely not on your level but I had the same kind of trouble with one of my ZDP Delicas...I got to the point where I just gave up and said who cares! I only reground it for performance anyway...
That regrind is insane, I'm going to try to get one of those once I can save up a little coin. Probably leaving it stock though
I'm a chef and the smacking on the back of the hand to cut through an onion really got me LOL. People don't understand how much the knife thickness affects the cutting in a kitchen. It's crazy how much difference ten-thousands can make
That manix looks like a stock version of a spyderco wharncliff... good damn sharpening
Hi, 1000% correct. It's like you see a formula 1 car and say "this car is shit, I can not pull a trailer with it". Because it is built only for one reason, to go fast on a specific racetrack and for this task it's the best.
That's exactly why I have a wide, selective collection too! I'm not hunting wild boars with a Benchmade! I prefer my Mississippi Hunter in M4.
I always thought it would be cool if the pocket clips were ground into the shape of a lightning bolt for your regrinds. I mean if you took a day or two to test something like that out, that is time away from other projects. Not to mention the wear and tear on abrasives and the cost of the clips themselves. People want kickass performing knives so pocket clips should be the last thing on your mind.
i am 99% sure im the guy who bought the knife at 15.38.
Giant kettle bell workout VS Maxamet Regrind!!! Maxamet for the Win :-)))
I love that feeling when u finger tip test a sharp knife and it's so sharp it cuts a tiny ways into ur skin and it doesn't bleed. Am I weird?
Charp AF
I reground mine a while back and it was pretty difficult but at the same time I thought it was going to be worse. Mine got really thick because I kept having trouble during sharpening, it’s good now though.
The hand finishing is what killed me. The ceramic belts, work best at low speed and high pressure.
Big Brown Bear oh yeah I bet. I didn’t do all that. I just left the vertical lines. It did patina a little with that finish. Compared to other steels I’ve ground, there was a big difference in difficulty with how resistant it is to grinding. Not to mention the constant dipping to keep the ht safe. It takes time. On the lower grits I think I was getting discoloration after dipping if I remember right. Good job man. I really want to try one of your knives or stones one day. I’m trying to get into a better job now.
What about just applying some gentle convex over say 5 mm behind the edge on the Manix? It wouldn’t be as slicey as FFG, but it might even have less drag in certain stuff while being less work/cost intensive regrind. About the blade removal - I only did one regrind so far (so I am in a great position to be a smart-butt), but I just tightly wrapped the handle in a PVC tape so no water and gunk could get into the pivot. It worked pretty well and the knife was easier to hold.
Hi, Matus
Blending the primary into the secondary in a convex way as you describe is what I do on all my flatground knives. It works well to reduce the behind the edge thickness, provide the geometry I like, and allows you to shape the blended area as you like. Once I do that I Apex it with a true micro bevel. (Cannot be seen)
I have the Native 5 and PM2 in Maxamet and it took about the same time as S110V to regrind the (secondary/blended) bevels on those. Not hard by any stretch of the imagination.
Definitely cuts better, far less resistance, and overall it takes literally a few seconds to initially sharpen it and only a couple minutes to resharpen. (Until the convex blend needs reshaping again. Over time the blended area will increase in size to avoid edge thickening)
I run the blended area around 4-5mm wide (initially) and apex it at around 12°-14° per side.
Maxamet takes a real nice polish as well. (Spyderco medium and xxf and Diamond pastes for the blended area only)
@@Wolf_K I did about the same by hand on diamond stones on my k390 PM2 a few months back and it was not too bad - it does not look pretty now, but it increased the cutting abilities a lot (of course, the thinner edge is now a little less strong then before, but I don't cut electric cables with the knife).
@@matusknives
I quite like the aesthetics of it. I’ve been doing it for years so maybe it grew on me…I don’t remember. I never did like V-edges though, they always felt awkward and low performance to me.
If you blend the bevels and find that apex stability isn’t what you want just increase the apex degrees in 1-2° increments per side until it stabilizes. The shallow bevel will remain untouched and is quite irrelevant to the apex degrees you decide to use. That’s why I like true micro bevels; you can have both high cutting performance and good edge stability.
With flat ground blended bevels I mirror polish them and people could be forgiven for thinking the apex is the same high grit. Often its only at #600/#700 on the cutting edge but because the very apex is so small it can’t be seen it appears to be at #15,000 or something. I don’t even apply the apex until I’ve polished the knife. It’s the last thing I do.
I don’t know how familiar you are with Plateau Sharpening in the Cliff Stamp Method but I suggest you check it out if you’re not familiar with it as it can increase performance and technique to a high degree.
You can check his channel here on RUclips and sites in my about section. Sadly, Cliff is no longer with us.
@@Wolf_K I can only agree (great detailed description, thanks). Only thing I would add - to avoid over-doing the convexing (which in a sense is also thinning the knife behind the edge) tend to sharpen the blade so a grit that looks 'shiny' enough, so that once I start doing the new bevel and then blending it, I can see where I am starting to approach edge cutting edge - so that I don't unintentionally go too far (I have learned this from sharpening Japanese and Japanese-style kitchen knife, where thinning is something one does more often).
I will look out that Plateau Sharpening as I have not hear of it.
BTW - do you do the geometry adjustments on stones and then smoothen out the finish on a belt grinder, or do you do all of it on stones? Or do you have a different method?
@@matusknives
I use waterstones, Diamond plates, and occasionally oil stones so it’s all freehand. I don’t have a belt grinder. I’d like one as there’s some major reprofiling I’d like to do on more than a few knifes.
Once you comprehend Plateau Sharpening it will become clear that you can never over do it and that the shape and polish of the bevel is irrelevant to the degrees and grit of the cutting edge (apex).
It really opens up a whole new world of possibilities.
In my opinion apexing should never be done on powered grinders unless one is using a significant amount of coolant, slow speeds, and high cutting efficiency belts.
Why? Just observe any factory knife and the burnt edges are very apparent. This is the reason it often takes a few hand sharpenings for a new knife to stabilize at the apex….to remove the damaged steel from power grinding.
If somebody wanted that regrind with a 3M trizact belt finish what would it cut the cost down to you think??
Those are finishing belts not grinding belts
it's good to say you've done that for the under the belt experience but the length of time and money...put it in your production knives.
I know that there is no perfect "good for everything" steel but from my experience my personal fave is M390 for a knife that you plan to try and use for more than any specific task.... it's easy to sharpen and holds a great edge for a good amount of time, I EDC M390, elmax, s35vn and S30v and cruwear I just find I love my M390 knives for folders and for fixed blades I narrow it down to two my bark river 3v Aurora ghost jade and my A2 hogue ex-f01 9in... I can put both those knives thru anything and they still cut and still do what they're meant to do
as a medium high level amateur grinder... I can tell, this conversation comes from repetitive experiences, every person I have learned from has said the same thing Sean is saying
how would it have been if you reground it on your CBN sharpening stones?
That would be ridiculous haha. Nah, there is no replacement for a belt sander my man
@@FearNoSteel yea I hear ya. I just assumed it would be faster due to the abrasives. But alas you are right about belt grinders. I know they have felt belts etc that can have cbn emulations added to them but they arnt used for hogging off material like this from what I remember. And I've only seen Cbn wheels for sharpening iirc. Would be great if they made some cbn belts but I'm sure they'd be expensive.
@@tacticalcenter8658 I was quoted $1400-$2000 per CBN belt
@@FearNoSteel holy crap. If they lasted a few years that might be a good investment lol.
You start taking orders on knives your going have problems balancing out family time with the wife and kids . BBB your Artist With steel .
Huuuuge
Expensive cardboard knives 🙄