Can you tell me how you managed the engine build please. I failed terribly and the kit was ruined, I have bought another (stubborn) but please could you tell me how you did it please. Shaky hands , tiny pieces , silly little sticks of metal that are so tiny. Thanks.
Hi Pete, thanks for the question. I'm assuming you're trying to build the cylinder block (step number 2). Here are my methods: 1. Cut the parts number 219-230 from sprue one by one (in order for assembly), so you don't mix up the parts. They're are all look alike. 2. Start putting together the layers from the top (part number 224 - 223 - 228/222 and so on). 3. After stacking 2 or 3 layers, Use the shaft to help align the layers. Apply cement as required only to the plastic parts. Add another layer only after you are sure that the layers below are aligned. You can flip the whole process upside down (put part number 224 at the bottom, upside down). It will be easier to insert the shaft. 4. The shaft is there to help align the layers, so you don't necessarily need to insert them all (except for the 2 shaft in the middle), the others won't be visible. Hope it helps. Let me know if you have more questions. Cheers!
As the owner of one of these fine Honda jewels since 1982. Mine also being a 1976 in Parakeet Yellow. I have just a few points on colors. Firstly, that the cylinder head and cylinder block were never painted and were left bare cast aluminum to better facilitate the transfer of heat to the passing air flow. The remainder of the engine (cam cover, oil pan, upper and lower case halves etc.) is painted a bright silver with the exception of the ignition cover which is chrome plated. And the brushed aluminum plate on the alternator cover. The only other missing paint is the blacked out outlet flange of the muffler. I have acquired both this kit, and the Ruby Red 1975 kit that I am going to convert to a Red 1976 (black side covers) So that I have both that were available here in Canada in 1976. Also here in Canada, our bikes came with the lower 2" rise handle bars to match the rear set foot peg set up. We were far more of a cafe style market here than in the US. It's thanks to the US that in 1977 this bike was converted to high rise bars and forward pegs. Leading in-part to the demise of this sweet little ride. That said I must commend you on a job well done! I fear that at the age of 65 now, mine will not be as steady a hand as yours. There for my results not so good. I plan on building the two kits side by side.
Thank you very much for your kind comment. You're very lucky to own this beauty. Wish I had a chance to ride the bike. But sadly now I can only build the model, probably it's not as fun as twisting the real throttle but I still enjoy it 😄 I referred to internet photos for the bike, but looking at the real one will be the best. I'm pretty sure you will enjoy the build. Especially when you're building your own bike. I think the kit also comes with the lowered handlebar. Safe ride and happy modelling
Actually it was only the top crankcase half that was painted, rocker box, clutch, alt and f sprocket cover were painted silver and lacquered and as you say the barrels and head and sump were left unfinished. I had 4 back in 70's and 80's. The UK Yellow ones (F2) had yellow side panels and a stripe on the tank. This kit is absolutely brilliantly detailed. looks stunning
I noticed you sprayed the clear coat over the decals. This is usually how it is done in modelling but it might be still ok to just put the decals on over the clear coat, maybe, as is on the real bikes, you can see the 'step' of the thickness of the decal. But it looks much nicer with clear over the decal, more refined. Nice outcome. Your taste in background music is good. 😁
Very true, it all depends on the result you wanted to achieve. I've always been spraying clear coat over decal mainly to protect it. However the 'step' still can be visible, depending on the thickness of the clear coat. Thank you very much for your comment 🙏🙏 some other modelling videos avoid music because its disturbing, so I tried to look for a more calm and relaxing sound 😄
This Aoshima 1/12 scale kit Honda CB400 is amazing ! Great assembling parts and painting . It is a very detaild kit , I like very much how it looks on yellow paint !🏍️✌️🙂👍🏍️👏👏👏🏍️
As a former owner of a CB400/4 myself, I can say that the battery should be transparent (how else would the upper and lower acid level marks be useful?). Also, the carburettors were a magnesium alloy and were more of a grey colour than silver. I am thinking of having a go at one of these to get back into model building. My memory of hours spent on my own (rescued) 400/4) should see me right. I may even customise it to look how mine did.
Thanks for your reply, mine was in red, I had to rebuild the engine at one stage, new piston rings etc. They were one of the best handling bikes at the time and a very nice bike to ride. So it is going to be fun trying to build the engine on this model, by the way where did you get Chrome finish paint when you repainted the exhaust, they do not have anything like it in my local model shop.
Thanks a lot 😊. Yes the original cables are too big, thinner cables would be better. I tried cables modification on my next build, the Hasegawa Kawasaki H1. You might want to take a look. I'm from Indonesia 😊 Where are you from?
Sumpah keren banget garapanya master 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻, kalo boleh nanya untuk pengeleman menggunakan jenis lem apa saja ya master? Terimakasih sebelumnya, succes terus buat chanelnya mas 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Makasih banyak om 😆🙏 wah saya masih nubi belum pantes dipanggil master 🤣 Lem yang saya pakai tamiya cement. Tapi untuk parts yang kecil kaya spion, footstep, saya pake Loctite CA glue tipe gel. Lebih kuat dan ga belepotan, tapi harganya agak mahal
Makasih banyak Om Fauzi. Mohon maaf belum terima order 🙏. Masih belajar dan sebatas sharing hobby. Mau bikin motor apa Om? Barangkali saya bisa bantu 😁
![Building Aoshima 1/12 HONDA CB750 FOUR Scale Model Custom [Full Build]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GME9N-9qkzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Can you tell me how you managed the engine build please. I failed terribly and the kit was ruined, I have bought another (stubborn) but please could you tell me how you did it please. Shaky hands , tiny pieces , silly little sticks of metal that are so tiny. Thanks.
Hi Pete, thanks for the question. I'm assuming you're trying to build the cylinder block (step number 2). Here are my methods:
1. Cut the parts number 219-230 from sprue one by one (in order for assembly), so you don't mix up the parts. They're are all look alike.
2. Start putting together the layers from the top (part number 224 - 223 - 228/222 and so on).
3. After stacking 2 or 3 layers, Use the shaft to help align the layers. Apply cement as required only to the plastic parts. Add another layer only after you are sure that the layers below are aligned.
You can flip the whole process upside down (put part number 224 at the bottom, upside down). It will be easier to insert the shaft.
4. The shaft is there to help align the layers, so you don't necessarily need to insert them all (except for the 2 shaft in the middle), the others won't be visible.
Hope it helps. Let me know if you have more questions. Cheers!
@@Motomini12 Thank you so much. I prey I succeed this time .
@@peteball8294 good luck and happy modeling! 😊👍
Success ! Thanks again :)
@@peteball8294 you're very welcome 😊🙏
I used to own the real thing! Wonderful model you made here, very accurate, and that is coming from someone who totally restored a real one!
Thank you very much! Lucky you to have built the real one. Safe ride
As the owner of one of these fine Honda jewels since 1982. Mine also being a 1976 in Parakeet Yellow. I have just a few points on colors. Firstly, that the cylinder head and cylinder block were never painted and were left bare cast aluminum to better facilitate the transfer of heat to the passing air flow. The remainder of the engine (cam cover, oil pan, upper and lower case halves etc.) is painted a bright silver with the exception of the ignition cover which is chrome plated. And the brushed aluminum plate on the alternator cover. The only other missing paint is the blacked out outlet flange of the muffler.
I have acquired both this kit, and the Ruby Red 1975 kit that I am going to convert to a Red 1976 (black side covers) So that I have both that were available here in Canada in 1976. Also here in Canada, our bikes came with the lower 2" rise handle bars to match the rear set foot peg set up. We were far more of a cafe style market here than in the US. It's thanks to the US that in 1977 this bike was converted to high rise bars and forward pegs. Leading in-part to the demise of this sweet little ride.
That said I must commend you on a job well done! I fear that at the age of 65 now, mine will not be as steady a hand as yours. There for my results not so good. I plan on building the two kits side by side.
Thank you very much for your kind comment.
You're very lucky to own this beauty. Wish I had a chance to ride the bike. But sadly now I can only build the model, probably it's not as fun as twisting the real throttle but I still enjoy it 😄
I referred to internet photos for the bike, but looking at the real one will be the best. I'm pretty sure you will enjoy the build. Especially when you're building your own bike. I think the kit also comes with the lowered handlebar.
Safe ride and happy modelling
Actually it was only the top crankcase half that was painted, rocker box, clutch, alt and f sprocket cover were painted silver and lacquered and as you say the barrels and head and sump were left unfinished. I had 4 back in 70's and 80's. The UK Yellow ones (F2) had yellow side panels and a stripe on the tank. This kit is absolutely brilliantly detailed. looks stunning
This is an amazing kit! And well built on top of that👍
Thanks a lot! One of the best kit by aoshima
I need to get this kit, you showed us it's real vallue👍
_wah keren banget bisa merakit motor sebagus itu selamat berkarya semoga sukses👍👍👍_
Terima kasih banyak Kak 🙏
I noticed you sprayed the clear coat over the decals. This is usually how it is done in modelling but it might be still ok to just put the decals on over the clear coat, maybe, as is on the real bikes, you can see the 'step' of the thickness of the decal. But it looks much nicer with clear over the decal, more refined. Nice outcome. Your taste in background music is good. 😁
Very true, it all depends on the result you wanted to achieve.
I've always been spraying clear coat over decal mainly to protect it. However the 'step' still can be visible, depending on the thickness of the clear coat.
Thank you very much for your comment 🙏🙏 some other modelling videos avoid music because its disturbing, so I tried to look for a more calm and relaxing sound 😄
@@Motomini12 ...thanks kindly.
Superb - and kind of you to give such good, detailed & well-written advice.
Thank you very much. Wish you the best of luck and happy modelling 😊🙏
This Aoshima 1/12 scale kit Honda CB400 is amazing !
Great assembling parts and painting . It is a very detaild kit , I like very much how it looks on yellow paint !🏍️✌️🙂👍🏍️👏👏👏🏍️
Very true my friend. This particular kit has so much detail. I like the yellow too. Thanks for watching 😁👍
Akhirnya muncul juga. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hehe iya Bli, ternyata susah juga bikin video 🤣
@@Motomini12 bukan susah lgi tpi plus bangetnya.hehehe
@@RPTOYS saya banyak belajar juga habis lihat2 video review-nya Bli 🙏
Ia om di adopsi jg gk apa2 saling sharing sekalian. Kadang jga sy nyari referensi liat di tmpat2 lain.hehehe 👍👍🙏🙏
That's a great little kit. Nicely done.
Thank you! Its a fun kit
As a former owner of a CB400/4 myself, I can say that the battery should be transparent (how else would the upper and lower acid level marks be useful?). Also, the carburettors were a magnesium alloy and were more of a grey colour than silver. I am thinking of having a go at one of these to get back into model building. My memory of hours spent on my own (rescued) 400/4) should see me right. I may even customise it to look how mine did.
Thank you! Would be great to build a bike and customize it according to your own ride. Brings back memories
Thanks for this video, my son bought me one of these kits, ie the 1974 model in Red. I used to own one of these myself.
Thank you for the comment. Hopefully it can be useful, you're very lucky to have ownned the real one. Happy modelling
Thanks for your reply, mine was in red, I had to rebuild the engine at one stage, new piston rings etc. They were one of the best handling bikes at the time and a very nice bike to ride. So it is going to be fun trying to build the engine on this model, by the way where did you get Chrome finish paint when you repainted the exhaust, they do not have anything like it in my local model shop.
@@lilchris26 building the model will bring back your memories
The chrome paint is called molotow, sprayed using airbrush in 10 psi
Widih om... Ini ngerakit sendiri om... Saya baru tahu ada model scale yang harus dirakit. Mantap om
Makasih Om 🙏. Iya ini ngerakit dan cat sendiri. Merek dan skala nya juga macem2 😁👍
@@Motomini12 wah keren saya baru tahu keren 🙏👍
@@emjehobby boleh coba Om kapan2 😁👍mumpung lagi WFH
@@Motomini12 siap om, saya kurang telaten kalo ngerakit ngerakit 😄
keren banget om prosesnya.. setelah jadi wiihh tabjub saya. mantul
Makasih Bang. Sesuai request Abang Ron, saya dokumentasikan proses catnya juga hehe 😁✌
wah keren detail nya
Betul Om, makasih. Tapi bikinnya juga lumayan 🤣
very nice. Get aftermarket thinner cables. The kit cables are thick and out of scale. Where are you from?
Thanks a lot 😊. Yes the original cables are too big, thinner cables would be better.
I tried cables modification on my next build, the Hasegawa Kawasaki H1. You might want to take a look.
I'm from Indonesia 😊 Where are you from?
This was really nice. I want to build one now.
Thanks! You will enjoy it
What a bewty. Aoshima kits are excellent
The newer releases are better than the older ones
so nice detailing result, good job bro 🤘
Thanks a lot! Happy modelling
Makasih banyak Om 😁👍
@@Motomini12 sama-sama om, pengen bisa ngerakit mokit juga,, udah pernah nyoba,, hasilnya zonk 😭
@@DIEKVILGARAGE hehe pelan2 aja om, banyakin nonton video saya wkwk 🤣
saya juga masih belajar 😁🙏
Manteb mas keren 👍👍 marai dadi pengen 😁
Matur suwun Mas 🙏 yo mesti luwih apik gaweane sampean to 😄
@@Motomini12 wah yo podo ae mas , 😁 ojo merendah 🙏🙏👍👍 sipp pokok e 👍
Wow lagu akad : payung teduh.
Betul om 😁👌
@@Motomini12 btw nice om rakitannya ❤️ salam dari malaysia.
@@fauzanfauzi2280 terima kasih 🙏 salam tuan 😁
Besides the beautiful detail work, your camera work is superb also.
Thanks for the feedback MrGardman. I'm trying to capture the build as best as I can 😄 a lot of things to learn
Отлично получилось!
большое тебе спасибо 😄
Amazing Car 💚 Great Share, Thanks 👍 All Done , Please Stay Connect
Thanks a lot for watching 👍😄
@@Motomini12 Most Welcome Dear Friends, Please Stay Connect
@@JawdanToys sure I will 👍😁
Very good build🤯 thank you very helpful 👍
Your welcome Pete 👍 hope it helps
What's the easiest way to assemble the wheels on my 400/four kit.
Hi. If you intend to retain the chrome, I suggest to assemble using CA gel type glue
@@Motomini12 I am retaining the chrome,but I can't figure out how to fix the wheel's together.
beautiful work, foto background nya pake apa itu om?
Yg putih kaya pintu garasi ya Om? Itu pakai VOS board, plus lighting yg pas. Bisa coba google atau beli di toko buku langganan anda 😁✌
@@Motomini12 siap terima kasih
@@MaftyNavue sama2 Om, semoga bisa membantu 😁🙏
Sumpah keren banget garapanya master 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻, kalo boleh nanya untuk pengeleman menggunakan jenis lem apa saja ya master? Terimakasih sebelumnya, succes terus buat chanelnya mas 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Makasih banyak om 😆🙏 wah saya masih nubi belum pantes dipanggil master 🤣
Lem yang saya pakai tamiya cement. Tapi untuk parts yang kecil kaya spion, footstep, saya pake Loctite CA glue tipe gel. Lebih kuat dan ga belepotan, tapi harganya agak mahal
Terimakasih banyak sudah mau sharing mas, lekas saya coba ya mas, sekali lagi thankyou mas 🙏🏻🙏🏻🔥🔥
@@vincenthendra5797 sama-sama Om, semoga bermanfaat. Happy modeling
Kerenn om 😁👍🏻
Makasih banyak Om Austen 🙏😁
Yoyoyo
Keren.... 🔥🔥🔥
Hehe makasih Om, saya mampir juga ya ke channel Om😁🙏
Pengen belajar juga om
Bisa ngobrol di insta Om🙏 saya di pekanbaru kok 😁 salam kenal
Sama kayak backsongnya, bila nanti saatnya tiba ku ingin kau menjadi milikku wahai cb 400 🤭🤭🤭
Wkwk, Akang bisa aja. Motor klasik keren ni Kang 😆 belum bisa beli aslinya. Bikin miniaturnya aja 😁✌
bikin kayak gini berapa om.. mau lah dibikinin.. keren om....
Makasih banyak Om Fauzi.
Mohon maaf belum terima order 🙏. Masih belajar dan sebatas sharing hobby.
Mau bikin motor apa Om? Barangkali saya bisa bantu 😁
@@Motomini12 hehe.. maklum om, diecast ane standar semua. Liat kayak ini bawaannya baper.. haha..
Klo buka PO info om ya.. ^^
@@69jeon69 hehe salam satu hobi Om. Sebenernya saya ada banyak kenalan yg bisa bantu bikin. Boleh DM saya aja di instagram Om 😁👍
Bro the song is payung teduh? 🤣🤣
Wkwk iya. Biar enjoy rakitnya 😆
Salut my friend super moto super video subscribe subscribe ...
Thank you my friend 👌
Keren bro! Lanjuuuuuuuuuuuut
Terima kasih banyak Om, mohon dukungannya 😊🙏
music : Payung Teduh - Akad
Betul om 😁👍
kalau saya disuruh ngerakit tamiya kayaknya bakal jadi jelek deh di pewarnaan hehe
btw saya bantu subs pakai 3 akun om
Second account
Third account
Wah makasih banget lho Om 🙏
Hehe iya dulu waktu ngerakit pertama kali juga saya belepotan 🤣
Mantap 😊😍👍
Makasih Bang Irfan 😄🙏
いくら程で買えますか？
日本円でお願いします
約3,420
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻💪🔥
Thanks a lot my friend 😄👍
di jual gak nih hehehe
Hehe sori belum dijual om 😆
@@Motomini12 kalo di jual kabarin ya om ✌🏻😁
@@zuhairalyafie950 woke, beneran minat Om? Kalau mau saya ada kenalan yang terima jasa rakit 😁
nungguin yg ini di jual aja om hehehe
@@zuhairalyafie950 oke om 😁👌
パイピングが太いやろ？
それはタミヤのパイピングケーブルの0.65ミリあたりに変えると良いよ。
あとは、上手。
ありがとう、はい、配管は太いです。直径0.65または0.5mmを使用する方が良いでしょう。