Hi. Mike if you mix epoxy and them pour it into a flat tray it will stay workable for longer ,then you can use a small paint roller to apply it to the laminations ,a three inch foam gloss paint roller is ideal and very inexpensive and is much quicker and cleaner another great video keep up the good work.
using what i learnt in your videos i have made 2 bows out of staves, about to do a hickory pickaxe handle bow backed with a layer of fibreglass covered in thin leather glued using epoxy, the plastic wrap will save me a lot of time and effort with clamps and rubber bands. thank you.
It's good to find out that Bow Grip 100 is really runny when mixed. I bought some online a while ago and have yet to use it in conjunction with fiberglass cloth. I'll remember to get out a bunch of old newspaper to cover everything.
I ordered a bow stave that came with planed bamboo and hickory it is tougher than nails to get down to floor tillering. I am using a rasp like you do. I am following the backyard bowyer a beginners guide book as well and your instructional videos. I hope it turns out. It should look similar to your process. Except I used hide glue to glue it all together.
TPRDA. (Timber preservative and reactive diluent additive) will make a deeper penetrating epoxy resin and keep the timber you use from becoming brittle over a longer period of time....only 10 % by weight max. will get the resin deep into the timbers to be laminated....TPRDA is used in the boatbuilding trade so, you might be able to get your hands on some from a chandlery.
Hey Mike, great video! I´d like to know the specific measurements of the woods you´re using in order to have a better idea of what to buy and how to cut it. Thanks!
Sou do Brazil., e meu grande problema é em utilizar a cola correta. As colas epoxys tem tornado meus arcos quebradiços.Mesmo assim continuo tentando., e seus vídeos tem me ajudado muito. Grato.
Ivan as cola brasileira São ótimas e porque eles não te espricou como usar colas epóxi você não deve misturas e usar no mesmo tem que esperar o tempo de indução e de 15 minutos você misturas as duas e espera 15 minutos depois você usa eu também faço arcos nunca quebrou despois que aprendi
@@jogandoandroid1690 ola amigos vcs indicao , agumas colas boas brasileiras tanto para colar madeira com madeira a prova dagua quanto para colar madeira em fibra
Love that info! Does the foam roller leave enough glue in place. I know I like to overdo it with the glue, but if the roller works, then it would save time.
Nicest bow I've seen you make so far . That purple heart is awesome looking. Your bows are really coming along nicely. 1. They say Jay Massey from Massey bows may have gotten cancer from inhaling epoxy fumes back in his early bow making days. Just a word of caution and open airflow. Finally are you in Florida???
Yes and it has worked for me, but it would be irresponsible for me to recommend it as it is not considered the way fiberglass should be glued to wood. If you want the way things "should" be done then consider a glue that is made for fiberglass to wood connecting, such as an epoxy called Smooth-On. 3Rivers Archery sells it online.
Try using a disposable paint brush or a disposable porous foam brush to do a neater and more uniform layer of epoxy. The epoxy layer can be very thin you don't need to slather it on.
The form is dependent on certain things that I didn't want to deal with... like inflatable hoses and the like. I believe they are necessary for laminated bows (fiberglass kind) but for wood bows, not so much. At least that's my opinion.
Mike, I was thinking of making an oak on oak laminated bow. What thickness would you recommend for the backing? Thanks for the great videos. Ive been watching for a while now. Ernie
Not sure about oak as a backing, but with hickory 1/8" does the trick on almost any belly or core wood, so I wouldn't go less than that for oak. Just my opinion.
Hi mike I make selfbows and I'm going to make a laminate bow soon my question is that of whether cling film (shrink wrap) can really apply enough pressure to give a uniform and smooth finish to the bow? From Michael UK
I use it more for adhering backing material to a core piece of wood and it works very well. Multiple laminations as in modern longbows, I can't say as I do not make those. As far as a "smooth finish" is concerned, I'd say no as there is quite a bit of finish work afterward. The shrink wrap is basically better than multiple clamps when using epoxy, but not as good as an inflatable hose system.
No, no grooves although I find that the bamboo is naturally rough, even when planed. I have not seen much of a difference between adding the grooves and not with bamboo. Planed wood on wood, it does seem to help, but bamboo to wood, not much of a difference IMO.
It's already in my playlist :) . Check out my channel and then playlists. There's a Flemish Twist tutorial as well as a serving the string tutorial as well.
The following is based on my experience with model airplanes and boats, as I'm not a bow maker. Maybe sometime. If you're gluing two materials together, it's best to use an epoxy that's meant as an adhesive. Not quite as strong mechanical properties, but if it's any good it will stick better, possibly much better. If you're laying up some fiberglass, carbon, etc., then you'd be better off with a relatively low viscosity epoxy that's meant for the purpose. These usually have better mechanical properties. I don't know how much it helps, but if I'm laying up fiberglass, etc. over epoxy that's well cured, I'll clean, scuff, and then put on a very thin layer of adhesive style epoxy. If I'm laying something up over epoxy that's only had a couple of days to cure, I won't bother, though I will wipe it down with alcohol in case there's some of that slimy "blush". You should make sure to match the epoxy to your conditions. If your workshop is cold, use a fast cure hardener. (By fast cure, I don't mean like the 5 minute stuff, but a hardener that will get the epoxy mostly cured in a day at 50 degrees.) If it's hot, use slow cure, or you might end up with a smoking mess before you can get very much applied. You'd do well to check out System Three's "Epoxy Book", but try hard to ignore the marketing! This is available on the web someplace. Stuff like West is meant as a general epoxy, I think. It's okay at bonding and can also be used to lay up glass. If you're going to leave your bow in the car sometime, investigate the temperature rating for your epoxy. (There seem to be two ratings: glass transition temperature and heat deflection temperature.) West is pretty low and might distort in your car unless you leave the windows wide open. At least on a sunny day. But if you keep it cool it's not bad.
West Systems makes a variety of special purpose additives for epoxies, which adjust the viscosity, and yield different thicknesses. I have used talcum powder, with no subsequent failures, on boat hulls, which endure severe and prolonged pounding. Sooner or later, depending on the individual, epoxy, including the fumes, will cause an allergic reaction to develop. Once that happens, you will react strongly, even to dust from sanding. It is best to be very careful with epoxys, including paints.
+Nicholas Bale Best Core Wood? Hmm... Well It's all about personal preference, but the most dense woods usually fall into this category. Ipe and, jabota are considered "ironwoods" due to their density, so I'll go with those as best. Kits are available online from several sources. 3 rivers archery, pine hollow longbows, rudder bows, and even eBay.
Hey Mike! I've got some questions. Are these boards tapered or do you tiller them after the glue cures? My second question is: do you get those bamboo strips off from 3RiversArchery or is there a way of getting them cheaper from somewhere else? Third question: can you use wood glue for fiberglass backing? Thanks in advance!
Hello and thanks for watching! I tiller them afterward. The bamboo came from sunset bamboo . com. but they are not planed, which is a pain. I have used titebond 2 for fiberglass without incident, but only once or twice so I can't really recommend it.
I don't get it,... what was accomplished? The time to give a bow performance is when you glue it up,....when you put it in a form and add reflex,.. deflex and curves you add performance and it don't cost your any more. No sanding? No surface prep? No wiping it down with acetone? And no form to add performance? And no 2nd video to see where you were going with this?
Hi. Mike if you mix epoxy and them pour it into a flat tray it will stay workable for longer ,then you can use a small paint roller to apply it to the laminations ,a three inch foam gloss paint roller is ideal and very inexpensive and is much quicker and cleaner another great video keep up the good work.
using what i learnt in your videos i have made 2 bows out of staves, about to do a hickory pickaxe handle bow backed with a layer of fibreglass covered in thin leather glued using epoxy, the plastic wrap will save me a lot of time and effort with clamps and rubber bands. thank you.
It's good to find out that Bow Grip 100 is really runny when mixed. I bought some online a while ago and have yet to use it in conjunction with fiberglass cloth. I'll remember to get out a bunch of old newspaper to cover everything.
I ordered a bow stave that came with planed bamboo and hickory it is tougher than nails to get down to floor tillering. I am using a rasp like you do. I am following the backyard bowyer a beginners guide book as well and your instructional videos. I hope it turns out. It should look similar to your process. Except I used hide glue to glue it all together.
Get a draw knife and patience and sweat. Hickory is a son of a gun
Dude, you need at least one vise! Thx. for posting, I learned something. :)
Hi Mike, if you have an auto paint supply store near you they have mixing cups and measuring sticks for precise mixing ratios.
TPRDA. (Timber preservative and reactive diluent additive) will make a deeper penetrating epoxy resin and keep the timber you use from becoming brittle over a longer period of time....only 10 % by weight max. will get the resin deep into the timbers to be laminated....TPRDA is used in the boatbuilding trade so, you might be able to get your hands on some from a chandlery.
Hey Mike, great video! I´d like to know the specific measurements of the woods you´re using in order to have a better idea of what to buy and how to cut it. Thanks!
Mike, so you're saying that I don't need to build a big expensive bow oven or really even a expensive form to make a nice laminated recurve ?
Hi Mike, I can't seem to find the video you referred to about planing bamboo. What's the title of that video? Thanks!
One of your videos you had trouble with stress cracks in the epoxy just wondering if this product might be better for the flex of the bow
Hi mike how do you prep the wood for gluing do you clean it off with any alcohols or rough it up or anything love the videos keep them coming
Hi mike, have you ever tried to use a comercial wood laminate (wilson art,pioneer) to back a bow?
Hey Mike have you ever tried a epoxy called G flex sounds like it would be good for backing
Sou do Brazil., e meu grande problema é em utilizar a cola correta. As colas epoxys tem tornado meus arcos quebradiços.Mesmo assim continuo tentando., e seus vídeos tem me ajudado muito. Grato.
Ivan as cola brasileira São ótimas e porque eles não te espricou como usar colas epóxi você não deve misturas e usar no mesmo tem que esperar o tempo de indução e de 15 minutos você misturas as duas e espera 15 minutos depois você usa eu também faço arcos nunca quebrou despois que aprendi
@@jogandoandroid1690 ola amigos vcs indicao , agumas colas boas brasileiras tanto para colar madeira com madeira a prova dagua quanto para colar madeira em fibra
Love that info! Does the foam roller leave enough glue in place. I know I like to overdo it with the glue, but if the roller works, then it would save time.
Nicest bow I've seen you make so far . That purple heart is awesome looking.
Your bows are really coming along nicely.
1. They say Jay Massey from Massey bows may have gotten cancer from inhaling epoxy fumes back in his early bow making days.
Just a word of caution and open airflow.
Finally are you in Florida???
where do you get the bamboo for the backing and what kind is it
So are you ever going to make a bow with those gemsbok horns in that quiver
Mike,quick question how good is purple heart wood as abow wood? I've read it is very hard which made mewonder if it has the flexability
I'm not sure. It's a two part epoxy adhesive, but is fiberglass resin a substitute for this... don't know.
Mike were can I find bamboo to back the bow.
Mike, I am soon going to make a fiberglass backed longbow have u tried using titebond for a laminate bow
Yes and it has worked for me, but it would be irresponsible for me to recommend it as it is not considered the way fiberglass should be glued to wood. If you want the way things "should" be done then consider a glue that is made for fiberglass to wood connecting, such as an epoxy called Smooth-On. 3Rivers Archery sells it online.
Are you using the full 1/4" boo slat or planing it down?
I feel like I've missed a video somewhere? Is this the first video in this build?
My pleasure!!! Thanks for watching and congrats on your bows :)
I get mine from a store called Peterman's Limber here in Vegas. Its a flooring supply company.
what happened to the riser for the reflex deflex bow I can't find it in your collection!!
I never did a specific video on that exact bow, but the process was the "adding a riser to a bend through the handle bow"
Try using a disposable paint brush or a disposable porous foam brush to do a neater and more uniform layer of epoxy. The epoxy layer can be very thin you don't need to slather it on.
The form is dependent on certain things that I didn't want to deal with... like inflatable hoses and the like. I believe they are necessary for laminated bows (fiberglass kind) but for wood bows, not so much. At least that's my opinion.
Thanx for the help
Great Idea!!!
Mike, I was thinking of making an oak on oak laminated bow. What thickness would you recommend for the backing? Thanks for the great videos. Ive been watching for a while now. Ernie
Not sure about oak as a backing, but with hickory 1/8" does the trick on almost any belly or core wood, so I wouldn't go less than that for oak. Just my opinion.
BoarriorBows Thanks Mike. Gonna go with 1/8.
can i recurve a bow without a heat gun?
Hi mike I make selfbows and I'm going to make a laminate bow soon my question is that of whether cling film (shrink wrap) can really apply enough pressure to give a uniform and smooth finish to the bow? From Michael UK
I use it more for adhering backing material to a core piece of wood and it works very well. Multiple laminations as in modern longbows, I can't say as I do not make those. As far as a "smooth finish" is concerned, I'd say no as there is quite a bit of finish work afterward. The shrink wrap is basically better than multiple clamps when using epoxy, but not as good as an inflatable hose system.
Thankyou mike I'm hoping to make mine soon. So thanks for the advice and the videos.
And do you get your fiberglass from 3 rivers or bingham projects
IF I use it I get it from 3 rivers ( but they probably get it from Bingham).
Hi Mike
I got a question I stated to tiller a bow I'm making and would be interested in your opinion, if that possible.
Ernest.
Sure thing :)
Absolutely EXCELLENT belly or core wood. HORRIBLE BACKING MATERIAL, must be backed with something.
And the other question is have you ever tried vertical bamboo flooring.
I have not tried it but I have seen many bows made from it.
I have not but I know of several other bowyers that have made nice bows from it.
Can you use vinyl as a backing material? I have tons of it. Will it work?
I do not know about vinyl. Good question tho, I'll ask around.
You didn't do any grooves neither on bamboo nor on wood, or you did them before?
No, no grooves although I find that the bamboo is naturally rough, even when planed. I have not seen much of a difference between adding the grooves and not with bamboo. Planed wood on wood, it does seem to help, but bamboo to wood, not much of a difference IMO.
How did you plane the bamboo?
These I used a friend's jointer, but now I use a belt sander.
Hi mike can you do a Tutorial on making a bow string in the future. thanks you.
It's already in my playlist :) . Check out my channel and then playlists. There's a Flemish Twist tutorial as well as a serving the string tutorial as well.
thanks
I get mine from Sunset Bamboo dot kom. free shipping anywhere in the country too. You want the moso bamboo slats. Nice bundle of 25 slats for $99
if i want to make 150 lbs warbow, wich glue is best for me? is the bow grip 100 enough dor me?
Whatever you use, make sure it works: When a bow that heavy fails, it has enough energy to drive a broken tip through someone's head.
I am trying to avoid this...This is why i asked,i am laminating hickory+ bamboo, it should not fail, but i want strong glue, any idea?
You use a scale to get equal part epoxy.
will every type of epoxy work on bow making
The following is based on my experience with model airplanes and boats, as I'm not a bow maker. Maybe sometime.
If you're gluing two materials together, it's best to use an epoxy that's meant as an adhesive. Not quite as strong mechanical properties, but if it's any good it will stick better, possibly much better. If you're laying up some fiberglass, carbon, etc., then you'd be better off with a relatively low viscosity epoxy that's meant for the purpose. These usually have better mechanical properties. I don't know how much it helps, but if I'm laying up fiberglass, etc. over epoxy that's well cured, I'll clean, scuff, and then put on a very thin layer of adhesive style epoxy. If I'm laying something up over epoxy that's only had a couple of days to cure, I won't bother, though I will wipe it down with alcohol in case there's some of that slimy "blush".
You should make sure to match the epoxy to your conditions. If your workshop is cold, use a fast cure hardener. (By fast cure, I don't mean like the 5 minute stuff, but a hardener that will get the epoxy mostly cured in a day at 50 degrees.) If it's hot, use slow cure, or you might end up with a smoking mess before you can get very much applied.
You'd do well to check out System Three's "Epoxy Book", but try hard to ignore the marketing! This is available on the web someplace.
Stuff like West is meant as a general epoxy, I think. It's okay at bonding and can also be used to lay up glass.
If you're going to leave your bow in the car sometime, investigate the temperature rating for your epoxy. (There seem to be two ratings: glass transition temperature and heat deflection temperature.) West is pretty low and might distort in your car unless you leave the windows wide open. At least on a sunny day. But if you keep it cool it's not bad.
At the beginning, is that a crossbow prod, Mike?
Indeed it is :)
I am trying to restore and old crossbow... not going well as there is metal work involved, which I have no experience.
Not really a build along as much as a demonstration video. No previous video, but it will have some accompanying videos going forward.
West Systems makes a variety of special purpose additives for epoxies, which adjust the viscosity, and yield different thicknesses. I have used talcum powder, with no subsequent failures, on boat hulls, which endure severe and prolonged pounding.
Sooner or later, depending on the individual, epoxy, including the fumes, will cause an allergic reaction to develop. Once that happens, you will react strongly, even to dust from sanding. It is best to be very careful with epoxys, including paints.
A few questions
Best core wood?
Can u get a kit?
+Nicholas Bale Best Core Wood? Hmm... Well It's all about personal preference, but the most dense woods usually fall into this category. Ipe and, jabota are considered "ironwoods" due to their density, so I'll go with those as best. Kits are available online from several sources. 3 rivers archery, pine hollow longbows, rudder bows, and even eBay.
厉害👍
what is the best type of epoxy?
I believe Smooth-On brand from 3 rivers archery is likely the best.
Yes Mike should be plenty
l was thinking of putting bam bow backing on my bow its maple bow can l use carpenters glue
+john coelho Can't go wrong with bamboo on top of maple, but what is carpenter's glue?
there are many but its just wood glue mate. better to use a water resistant or water proof type.
if there are a lot of voids or gaps what so ever use epoxy, it makes a great filler.
Agreed.
Was... was that a "Dad Sex Joke" about the double glove? O_0 if so then you've gotten an awkward chuckle outta me.
Hey Mike! I've got some questions. Are these boards tapered or do you tiller them after the glue cures? My second question is: do you get those bamboo strips off from 3RiversArchery or is there a way of getting them cheaper from somewhere else? Third question: can you use wood glue for fiberglass backing? Thanks in advance!
Hello and thanks for watching! I tiller them afterward. The bamboo came from sunset bamboo . com. but they are not planed, which is a pain. I have used titebond 2 for fiberglass without incident, but only once or twice so I can't really recommend it.
Rapidly answered, that's really helpful! Can you tell(or even better- show) me how to plain such a bamboo strip?
Sure thing. Maybe this weekend or next.
That's great, accept my grattitude! :D
What epoxy was used?
The type I used is no longer being made. I recommend Smooth On for most applications these days.
@@BoarriorBows do you have any experience using Huntsman products like TDR 1100?
Why don’t you get a scale and scale one part epoxy and scale one part hardener then you mix it all up.
K lol wanted to make sure before spending the money to make one ya know
I don't get it,... what was accomplished?
The time to give a bow performance is when you glue it up,....when you put it in a form and add reflex,.. deflex and curves you add performance and it don't cost your any more.
No sanding? No surface prep? No wiping it down with acetone? And no form to add performance?
And no 2nd video to see where you were going with this?
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