Ah, the old fingernail trick. My Grandpa (an Old School German butcher) taught me this trick when I was in my formative years. I noticed your one knife was a Solingen wood carving knife. I still have my Grandpa's Solingen carving knife. Solingen steel holds an edge worthy of delicate surgery and great longevity...Great video! Thank you for sharing your talent.
Thank you for your kind comments. It’s great to know that others out there are old school learners like myself. I agree that Solingen tools are high quality. I’ve been using those knives for over 50 years and are still my favorites.
I have abandoned all my stones and worksharp systems for a 2x4 and sandpaper only pulling I never push into apex anymore. I finish all my blades with black compound and green on a hard leather strop. Out of all the methods I've finally found one that works awesome for scandi and convex blades . Once you find your method it feels so darn good 👍 I now have no fear about reprofiling an edge on any knife. All knife owners should learn how to sharpen .
I've been wood carving since early 90s. I have attended many seminars on on how to sharpen carving tools. You are the first person I've seen pushing the edge towards the stone.
I had no idea that my technique is opposite of what others are demonstrating. I don’t recall the particulars of who taught me but I’ve been doing it that way since the early 70’s. However the stropping part is always a reversed motion. Perhaps it doesn’t really matter as long as you get a satisfactory result.
Thankyou so much for this. I am a beginner whittler with my grandfathers sharpening stones. It seems with your video, I now have all I need bar the practise. Thankyou
Thank you for your comment. Good luck with your whittling journey. You may find my other sharpening videos helpful too if you start using chisels, gouges or v-tools. Keep on practicing!
When I started sharpening my own tools in the previous century it was the only way I knew of. I’ve since used oil and water stones, diamond cards, lapping compounds, fine grit sandpaper and buffing compound. I Still use oil stones out of habit and convenience. It works for me anyway.
I was amused to hear that Arkansas stones are pretty much useless from a young RUclipsr recently - clearly people like you and me have been living a lie. Nice matter-of-fact demonstration, thank you.
I never do the "leading edge" sharpening, but there are merits to both directions (some Kitchen Knife folks swear by trailing edge + a final leading edge pass or two) - I'll give your technique a try next time. I like your burr-removal trick of going in the other direction for a few quick strokes - thank you
Thank you for your comments. Please note that my technique of knife sharpening is not recommended for using water stones. The tools will tend to dig into them too much. Dragging the blade as you would in stropping works well. However oil stones work best for me for doing quick touch ups.
I’ve always been taught to pull the edge, not push. Pushing the edge also pushes the burr. Also was taught that the stone in this case, I always use sandpaper, is only used for shaping the edge. The leather actually sharpens and polishes by removing the micro serrations that the stone/sandpaper leaves on the edge. Also to use a thin piece of leather rather than thick as the thick can cause dulling due to the “cushion” of the thick leather creating rounding/roll over of the edge. Been doing it that way since I was 6 when first taught nearly 50 years ago. In the end, whatever works for an individual. This is just how I do it.
Thank you for your comments. It’s always interesting hearing how others approach tool sharpening. Bottom line is to keep ‘em sharp with the method that works best for you.
Regarding downward pressure sharpening a blade, at least for me, it’s usually when I see my finger tips start turning white. That’s perhaps my only gauge and when I feel the edge biting in. Not too hard though, as a light touch is best for smaller tools and it depends on how much sharpening is needed. Best thing is to keep practicing. Best of success to you and thank you for your question.
It seems counterintuitive but I find it works well to cut into the stone as though you were slicing cheese. Then dragging it the opposite way on the strop as it will damage it if you didn’t do that. Best of success in your sharpening.
There are many ways to sharpen your knives. Main thing is to sharpen them with the way that works best for you. My oilstone technique is just one way and it has worked for me.
Thanks for the video very clearly explained. I was wondering I have a stone wheel I use for sharpening chisels can I use it to sharpen my whittling knives or r they too small for the wheel?
Thank you for your comments and your question. I use a grinding wheel primarily for chisels and not usually for knives. The problem with grinding knives on a wheel is it will shorten the usable life of your blade more quickly. I can achieve satisfactory results with oil stones in a fairly short period of time without risk of overheating and drawing the temper out of the edge. Chisels are thicker and have the mass to disperse the heat more before temper colors appear provided one is careful. The exception for grinding knives is if a blade is badly nicked or broken and needs reshaping. Best of success with your sharpening.
I’m not sure if I understand your question. The knife blade should not be totally flat on the stone. When you sharpen a longer blade or a curved blade you will not be able to have the entire edge in complete contact with the stone at all times. Keep the blade moving and at the same angle throughout the process. If I were to guess at the angle on both sides probably between 12 and 15 degrees. Don’t round the edge by multiple angles or it will not cut well even though it appears to be sharp. Practice will tell you where the sweet spot is on your blade. Thicker blades will have a wider edge bevel than thinner blades will when sharpened to the same angle.
Simple, straight forward- please keep up the great work Tim.
Thank you for your comments.
Ah, the old fingernail trick. My Grandpa (an Old School German butcher) taught me this trick when I was in my formative years. I noticed your one knife was a Solingen wood carving knife. I still have my Grandpa's Solingen carving knife. Solingen steel holds an edge worthy of delicate surgery and great longevity...Great video! Thank you for sharing your talent.
Thank you for your kind comments. It’s great to know that others out there are old school learners like myself. I agree that Solingen tools are high quality. I’ve been using those knives for over 50 years and are still my favorites.
I have abandoned all my stones and worksharp systems for a 2x4 and sandpaper only pulling I never push into apex anymore. I finish all my blades with black compound and green on a hard leather strop.
Out of all the methods I've finally found one that works awesome for scandi and convex blades .
Once you find your method it feels so darn good 👍 I now have no fear about reprofiling an edge on any knife. All knife owners should learn how to sharpen .
It’s great to have a simplified sharpening system that works well for you. Thank you for your comments!
I've been wood carving since early 90s. I have attended many seminars on on how to sharpen carving tools. You are the first person I've seen pushing the edge towards the stone.
I had no idea that my technique is opposite of what others are demonstrating. I don’t recall the particulars of who taught me but I’ve been doing it that way since the early 70’s. However the stropping part is always a reversed motion. Perhaps it doesn’t really matter as long as you get a satisfactory result.
@@shoptalkwithtim do what ever takes. I am going to try your method .
Thankyou so much for this. I am a beginner whittler with my grandfathers sharpening stones. It seems with your video, I now have all I need bar the practise. Thankyou
Thank you for your comment. Good luck with your whittling journey. You may find my other sharpening videos helpful too if you start using chisels, gouges or v-tools. Keep on practicing!
Excellent tutorial Thanks
Great video. I appreciate you making this!
Thank you. I’m glad you found it helpful.
Thank you. Haven't seen anyone use oilstones on carving knives yet.
When I started sharpening my own tools in the previous century it was the only way I knew of. I’ve since used oil and water stones, diamond cards, lapping compounds, fine grit sandpaper and buffing compound. I Still use oil stones out of habit and convenience.
It works for me anyway.
Thank you for the great demo
I was amused to hear that Arkansas stones are pretty much useless from a young RUclipsr recently - clearly people like you and me have been living a lie. Nice matter-of-fact demonstration, thank you.
I admit that I am old school using natural stones the way I do. But they work for me.
Thanks for this. Answered my decades old question of, "What the hell am I doing wrong?"
I’m glad to know that it was helpful to you.
I never do the "leading edge" sharpening, but there are merits to both directions (some Kitchen Knife folks swear by trailing edge + a final leading edge pass or two) - I'll give your technique a try next time. I like your burr-removal trick of going in the other direction for a few quick strokes - thank you
Thank you for your comments. Please note that my technique of knife sharpening is not recommended for using water stones. The tools will tend to dig into them too much. Dragging the blade as you would in stropping works well. However oil stones work best for me for doing quick touch ups.
I’ve always been taught to pull the edge, not push. Pushing the edge also pushes the burr. Also was taught that the stone in this case, I always use sandpaper, is only used for shaping the edge. The leather actually sharpens and polishes by removing the micro serrations that the stone/sandpaper leaves on the edge. Also to use a thin piece of leather rather than thick as the thick can cause dulling due to the “cushion” of the thick leather creating rounding/roll over of the edge. Been doing it that way since I was 6 when first taught nearly 50 years ago. In the end, whatever works for an individual. This is just how I do it.
Thank you for your comments. It’s always interesting hearing how others approach tool sharpening. Bottom line is to keep ‘em sharp with the method that works best for you.
Thanks-always wondered about using the rough or smooth side of leather.
well done Tim ..thank you
Regarding downward pressure sharpening a blade, at least for me, it’s usually when I see my finger tips start turning white. That’s perhaps my only gauge and when I feel the edge biting in. Not too hard though, as a light touch is best for smaller tools and it depends on how much sharpening is needed. Best thing is to keep practicing. Best of success to you and thank you for your question.
Very informative thank you so much!!!
Thank you for your kind comment. I’m glad it was helpful to you.
Great video, thank you. I've subscribed.
Awesome, thank you!
I was always told not to sharpen towards the cutting edge and sharpen away from I'm new to this so advice on this will help me
It seems counterintuitive but I find it works well to cut into the stone as though you were slicing cheese. Then dragging it the opposite way on the strop as it will damage it if you didn’t do that. Best of success in your sharpening.
You’re welcome. Thank you for your comment.
Oil clogs up the pours in stones and over time they will not take off the metal as quickly. Dry stones are best for raising a burr, takes less time
There are many ways to sharpen your knives. Main thing is to sharpen them with the way that works best for you. My oilstone technique is just one way and it has worked for me.
Thanks for the video very clearly explained. I was wondering I have a stone wheel I use for sharpening chisels can I use it to sharpen my whittling knives or r they too small for the wheel?
Thank you for your comments and your question. I use a grinding wheel primarily for chisels and not usually for knives. The problem with grinding knives on a wheel is it will shorten the usable life of your blade more quickly. I can achieve satisfactory results with oil stones in a fairly short period of time without risk of overheating and drawing the temper out of the edge. Chisels are thicker and have the mass to disperse the heat more before temper colors appear provided one is careful. The exception for grinding knives is if a blade is badly nicked or broken and needs reshaping. Best of success with your sharpening.
@@shoptalkwithtim that’s brilliant thank you.
There is a horizontal line in middle of blade shude stuck blade from this line below completely to stone?
I’m not sure if I understand your question. The knife blade should not be totally flat on the stone. When you sharpen a longer blade or a curved blade you will not be able to have the entire edge in complete contact with the stone at all times. Keep the blade moving and at the same angle throughout the process. If I were to guess at the angle on both sides probably between 12 and 15 degrees. Don’t round the edge by multiple angles or it will not cut well even though it appears to be sharp. Practice will tell you where the sweet spot is on your blade. Thicker blades will have a wider edge bevel than thinner blades will when sharpened to the same angle.
super
How much pressure?
👍
I’m glad you liked the video. Thanks for the thumbs up.