Tamiya 1/35 German Sdkfz 251 / 9 Half Track, Full Build Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 3 фев 2021
- #scalemodelling #kitreview
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Part 1 of my video for the Tamiya German Sdkfz 251/9 Kanonenwagen Half Track, in this part we paint and weather the model. Using oils, enamel washes, pigments and details for the crew compartment.
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Just come back to having a go at modelling since 1988 and your channel has helped so much..
Wow great job learned a lot. Very helpful mate
I met Tony Greenland once, way back when at Trucks n Tracks show in Folkestone. He signed my hardback copy of Panzer Modelling Masterclass. I think I looked at that book almost daily for nearly 5 years. And I still don't build 'em as good as he did. A real legend in Panzer modelling.
Good finish on this - I've stopped using gloss coats as well and have taken to using some light sanding for decals. Saves loads of time. Great build, nice looking kit, looking forward to the next vid.
Absolutely brilliant video....
You said you wasn't happy you lost a indicater off your model, in the photos that I've looked at of actual vehicles a lot of the indicaters are missing.... probably due to hedgerow damage....or something....
It make it look more realistic in my humble opinion..... 👍👍👍
I'm still early in my airbrush journey and it's been a lot of trial and error. Glad to see even pro's like yourself have trouble with it! I think I've become obsessive about cleaning my airbrush now! It's way more art than science. I guess that shouldn't be a surprise given it is "art". Also, in the day the tankers would have been slapping or spraying the camo on without much care. As you know they were all applied by the troops in the field so the colours and styles are all over the place with the German camo and dare I say it the "quality" of the paint job. At 1/35 scale your overspray or feathering is fine. In fact I find the really share edges from masking to be a bit too perfect. 1/48 scale masking is OK with the scale making it more believeable. Great series! Love the weekly drops of content.
Love your videos.been modeling here in the US for 35yrs now.im 52 as of Feb 3rd.
Perfect 👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
I just have to say, that section on getting the airbrush right for camo lines was insanely helpful and also very reassuring. I thought I was the only one who messed around for hours trying to dial it in. Thank you so much for putting that on record.
Excellent build and weathering. A bit of mud inside would be a nice touch as soldiers would have been walking in and out. Love your channel
Great series - great philosophy.
Thank you for this series really enjoying it.
Looking forward to your next build.
Good afternoon sir, (sorry don't know your name) I must say I've watched 2 of your builds now & I'm really enjoying them. Been modelling for about 3 years now & I still class myself as a novice so the way you explain things as you build is great. Unfortunately I can't own a airbrush as my wife suffers from asthma. But I do enjoy hand brushing. I'm currently building the stug 4 which I watched you build. Keep up the good work matey.
Sehr gute Arbeit 👍
I’m in the process of acquiring an airbrush and your videos will be extremely helpful in the learning process. Thanks!!!
This a great, thorough series. It is so thorough that it isnt always easy to find a certain 'skill', eg where you talk in detail about putting on decals or the first use of oil weathering. It would be great to have an index, eg Decals Pzr 2 build pt2, Oil Weathering Churchil pt3. It mighth exist, but not sure if it does.
Great idea respraying over the green.
I have the same issue on a Wespe and will try your technique.
Thanks and keep up the good work.
great update, Thank You ! Hope you and your family are well. Tony
Awesome video!!! Good idea using that pencil in order to make scuff marks - never thought of that!! Will be trying that technique soon!!
As much as we stress on camos and paint we forget every vehicle was brush painted by hand at the factory.
Looks awesome jas
That is not true.
Take it up with Bruce crompton, I didn't lie I may be incorrect with the information I know. True or not that's all I can go on.
Good work! Nice paintjob, a bit less ware and dirt than i usually do 👍👍👍
Yo hubiera hecho mas desgaste en el inrerior del vehiculo pero bueno es tu estilo ! Iguealmente muy buen trabajo
Very nice build and model,couldnt think it was that old now could you.
Great video!
Hello, great stuff just became a subscriber. @ 27:20 you mention where it could be from. With that Paint Scheme most likely Normandy 1944. There is a picture of one with foilage. Love the work you do, great stuff. Semper Fi.
Excellent, well explained and beautiful work! Thanks
*Beautiful model, even it's a long video i like it so much because of the simple technics you used! 👏*
Great tutorial as usual, really like your delivery. Keep up your great work!
Your pinwash flows so well on your models. Been trying to make my own from oils and thinners lately and I can't get it to flow quite so nicely. Tends to either flood out onto the surface or not move along panel lines and details at all
Nicely done.That's why i've been shying away from camo...I just don't have the confidence in my airbrush or myself.The filter certainly did make a difference.
Literallly just finishing up my halftrack as you uploaded this can’t wait to see how yours turns out
Great video my friend with some top tips looks amazing keep up the good work and stay safe 👍🙏
Not sure why it triggers people but milk consistency is NOT a lie, it's approximately 25-75 % paint-thinner. As a matter of fact, every milk has different consistency so you can't say it's this as final words, but when someone says consistency of milk, then it's from 25% paint to 75% thinner, maximum 30%-70%. After all if you do basecoats and you dont need absolute precision then you should go with a little bit more paint.
Love your channel been watching all your videos.
Lot of very good tips and tricks on modeling. Looking forward to seeing many more of your videos in the future.
Nice work on the camo. Its coming along really well
Finally someone said about the consistency of milk lie
You know I literally thought about putting a bit of milk in the airbrush to see how it behaved....
I get the milk comparison. Not sure why that triggers some people.
It's NOT a lie, milk consistency is literally approximately 25% paint to 75% thinner. Maximum 30% paint to 70% thinner.
very helpful video, thank you
Great job! I'm getting ready to start a similar vehicle to this only it doesn't have the gun.
Nice work great tips.
Loving your videos mate, just getting back into making these kits after a good 30 years and got an airbrush for Xmas so your channel is a godsend for tips.
Currently building the D version of this bad boy loving it but the pea dot camo on the panzer grenadiers uniforms takes longer to paint than the actual vehicle.
Keep em coming pal👌
I love the scratches you put on it.i mean stop and think.they drive those things threw brush and trees and what not right?
Great video, Great build!!!!! 👍👍👍
really nice work!
Very interesting video, Jason, even if it's not my scale. Found the channel by coincidence. Very nice work with also some useful processes
that will work well on a small scale too or will make the work easier. All the best and further much success with your work and your channel.
Greetings, Joachim
You should have seen the models from the 60s and 70s. That is the last time I built a plastic model. In the late 70s I went to wood ships. No I'm going back to plastic.
I built a lot of the old Monogram kits in the 80s as a kid. New kits today are levels above what we had. This is an old kit though, 1973 mold, but it’s decent considering.
A good paint thinning tip is, if you mix and the paint Doesnt drip, then it is To thick.
Hi remember that on each german vehickle antena base was made from rubber and it should have rubber color as well
Hi just a quick question what product do you recommend for ceiling your paint work ??? Thanks would appreciate feedback keep the videos coming very helpful 👍👍👍
When you use the extra thin over paint and put the brush back into the bottle, will the glue be affected by it? it seems that the nearer i get to the bottom the less effective the glue. mind you i don't have lots of paint in there, but it does seem different and the glue is a bit more cloudy.
I like your videos and your ideas, it is a very good thing to do. They are a good introduction to AFV building. I am working on a Deagon sdkfz 251/1 Ausf. C at this very moment. I have much deeper into the weathering than you show here, it is difficult to know when to stop? I add much more equipment and stores than you show. Will you be doing that further down the line? I like doing the equipment as it is very satisfying to get it right.
Regards, Andrew.
If you're gonna do splattering effects, you need to cover up the whole room. I've had splatters on the wall about three meters away from me.
Have you tried Imodium ? But seriously though, I've found you can control spatter direction and pattern pretty well by loading a brush with paint or wash and blowing it off the brush with an empty airbrush, it's perfect for mud spatter from tyres as you can even angle it where you want it to go.
I'm extremely late to the party, but I wanted to (a) say that these videos are fantastic! and (b) share a suggestion for those who (like me) are nervous about painting camouflage: Take some time to check out the many YT videos showing actual video & photographs of AFVs from WWII. What you will discover is that it wasn't very common to see tanks, halftracks & softskin vehicles painted in the kind of camouflage scheme that appears on the box tops of most model kits. In fact, the camouflage is extremely haphazard & sloppy, didn't cover the entire turret/hull, was touched-up in small areas here & there, and the touched-up areas sport patterns that have no resemblance whatsoever to the original pattern. Furthermore, a lot of German vehicles sported 'mud camo' to help the vehicle blend into the predominately muddy environment, especially on the Eastern Front, and the mud was basically just slopped on without any thought put into a pattern. For the Dunkelgrau used prior to mid-1942, often the copious amounts of dust & mud that accumulated during the dry summers often discoloured the grey to the point that it was difficult to tell what the original colour was. Finally, at various times in the war, paint supplies were not reaching the front, so, during the transition between the Dunkelgrau & Dunkelgelb base colours, one could find tanks, other AFVs, and trucks that were repainted Dunkelgelb on some surfaces, but not on others (I'm not talking about grey/dark yellow camo here). As for winter camouflage, all bets were off as well, (for similar reasons). So, I wouldn't go as far as saying there were no rules & no effort made to paint vehicles properly, but if you watch a lot of videos & peruse a lot of photos, you'll see what I mean. cheers,
Just as a counter to that, realism does not always make for a great model, even though most of what you have said is absolutely true. Often as modellers we’re trying to create a stylized version of the real thing. Thanks for posting
nice work. i just purchased my first tamiya 1/35 scale kit # 35378. I'm watching your videos to learn. i noticed at the 26:00 minute mark you apply a pin wash but you didn't apply a varnish? Also have you tried the tamiya panel liner? would really like to hear back from you. thank you
Flory doesn't ship out of the UK anymore.
Hi there I recently got the 1/35 Hanomag 251/1mainly for the price but some of the decals had been cut out I'd the Africa Corp swaz... Is this the norm for old kits that come through the post now or did someone just take a liberty?
Friul tracks are made in Hungary.... and I think they would get mad if they call them Eastern Europeans. But look if they would have been in Ukraine, Brexit would have made a difference as they were not in the EU.
But their posting service are mad expensive. Last time I had to pay 25 euros (almost the price of a set) for a distance of 400 kms in the EU.
Can you use the base color filter over brown also?
Yes, it’s about tricking the eye so as long as the colour you use for the filter is the base it will work, maybe not quite as much as I did
@@ChampionScaleModelling ahh okay, imma try the sand paper trick on the brown as I have some splattering. For the filter just light mist coat sprayed from fad?
Did you thin the base coat down when you were using it as a Filter over the camo?
Worth noting is PM Stores www.pmmodelsuk.com/ is the place to go for Flory Sanders if you live outside the UK, as they handle the International side of selling & shipping the Sanders/Washes & Pigments now.