Very good and helpful demonstration. Since watching your video, I have only sharpened free hand for all edges except my #45 cutters. I find it very satisfying. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Hi James, I started with handtools just around an year ago and then I realized how critical was the skill to sharpen. Being a complete novice I went with sharpening jigs, especially a side honing jig and I feel that was essential for me to begin with to understand the basic concepts and be able to get a decent amount of sharpness on my tools in order to progress. Now I do realize that freehand sharpening would be so much fun and quicker. So, as per your recommendation, I have just recently started sharpening just my chisels freehand. It does seem to take a bit longer for me to feel that burr but that is most likely because I haven't built any muscle memory and I am hoping it comes soon. Also, I don't intentionally shoot for a camber but I do seem to be getting one on my chisels which look good and I don't mind unless they are going to impact the sharpness or usability. Another problem I am facing is that the narrower chisel seems to be getting skewed (the edge is not accurate 90 degree). Any suggestion to help with that. I am still not confident to use freehand sharpening on my plane blades since I believe they will require a bit more accuracy and a camber there might cause problems - I am not sure. But I do want to eventually use freehand sharpening for all tasks.
The camber on an iron or chisel is not a problem from heel To toe on the bevel. But if you're getting it from side to side that can be an issue. Usually that means you're putting too much pressure on the outside and not enough on the inside or your body mechanic is off and you're rocking at the arm. If a smaller chisel is starting to develop a skew then just put more pressure on the side that is long that will bring it back in after a few sharpenings.
@@WoodByWright Thanks for explaining this. I thought I read or saw somewhere that said the camber (from heel to toe) could cause problems in certain cases with bevel down planes if it prevents the edge from touching the surface. If this isn't really a practical concern then I would want to start sharpening my plane blades as well freehand soon because I do agree that it is much more fun, fast and satisfying!🙂
A little bit of camber is not a problem. If it gets extreme to the point that the angle at the tip is greater than 40°, then it will start to inhibit the cut. But that's a very extreme camber.
Once again exactly what I needed.I am mostly a power tool user but I am slowly but surely growing my collection of hand tools.Your videos inspire me to do things hybrid way.And since I am young (14) I can't really use most power saws(because my parents don't let me to).So I have to call my dad to do the cutting.Your videos really help when my dad is at work so I need to cut using hand tools.😉 Greetings from Serbia.
Many thanks for this and your other video on different sharpening systems. As a noob to hand sharpening, this was instructive and easy to follow. Well done!
Great sharpening technique & nicely explained! That has to be the one shop job that I really dread doing. If done wrong, it can really ruin your day. As you noted, practice makes perfect... Good video..............Steve
Excellent timing, my dmt stones just came in and I built the same setup using the poor man's router plane. Sharp edges is making a hell of a difference. I thought I just didn't know how to use a no. 5. Thanks Man! (Going to try to comment my thanks more and share to increase traffic, don't worry about responding)
Any thoughts on Shanon Rogers' method of stropping before the edge is dull, as maintaining a sharp tool? As he says it won't sharpen a dull edge, but it will keep an edge sharp. I've been trying this with my chisels, keeping my strop close, and it seems to work rather well.
youp. I do that for my carving chisels a lot, I am just to rushed to do that with bench chisels. something I am working on but most of the time I wait too long. lol
I heard back in the day people used their palm to strop. Never tried putting some compound on my hand, I don't believe it will stay there. Maybe strapping some leather on the arm or legs ready to go would make it a quicker process, instead of reaching for the dedicated bench strop and moving it away every 2 minutes
Buy a 1 micron and .3 micron sheet of 3M lapping film. Flat surface to attach it to, and use it to strop. It’s insane on chisels as it doesn’t convex the edge at all. And 1 sheet is like $4, each sheet makes 3 or so strips, and each strip lasts multiple months.
A good method. Great video. One note I have learned from working in the bearing industry is to make sure you use a non ammonia glass cleaner. Ammonia will corrode steel very rapidly, we were not allowed to even have it in the shop in the Aerospace department.
I was out picking blackberries with the mrs. when this super idea for an on line tool and wood supply shop for your video channel James!!!! And what would I call it???? "The Wright Stuff" (stroke of genius on my part OR WHAT!) cheers...rr
+Mike Fulton yup the thinner the tip the more difficult to control. Just takes more practice of the same skill times I your arms locked so the chisel does not twist.
a micro bevel or convex do not make the edge last a measurable amount of time longer, but the micro bevel does save some time for sharpening initially. but takes more time in the long run. at least that is my opinion. most all hand held sharpening does put a bit of a convex grind on the edge.
I know you don't do this often or at all I think, but could you please do a review video of some sort on the 6 pc Harbor Freight chisels you recommended? (it was it in a later video I think) Thanks!!
I do not do review videos but I do like those chisels. They're not the best in the market and the handles are painful but they work fairly well. Another cheap set that I often recommend is the set from Aldi. They only come out once a year but they are $7 and well worth the money. That's my main set of chisels
Does the quality of the steel have to do with how sharp you can get the chisel to be? In other words, will a cheap chisel be as sharp as a higher quality chisel? thanks for the video!
for most tool steels the only major difference is in how long the edge lasts. if you were to get down on an atomic level you would see some steels having a slightly sharper edge, but not enough that anyone can tell the difference in use
anyone here able to offer some advice? i currently have a grinding wheel and a coarse/fine diamond stone. I was also gonna grab a strop and some compound. is there anything else i could conceivably need? the diamond stone says it's 400/1000 grit, but i don't know if that really means much.
You should just need that and the strap and buffing compound. as long as you keep the edge good there's no reason to take it back to the grinder. That's usually the best way to ruin an edge. But if the diamond plate is a good one that is all you need.
Jumping stones is basically what you do between your fine stone and the strop, so no problem with that. I have a hard time trying to understand people bying a 400, 600, 1000, 4000, 6000, 8000, 10000, etc. That's pretty much 700 bucks spent for nopt much
im confused a bit. ive been watching a lot of sharpening videos and am not sure if you're sharpening the entire bevel or just the tip. microbevel, secondary bevel yada etc...
So I’m an amateur with chisels, but I sharpen knives for restaurants and other customers on stones. With chisels I buy, I just take the new chisel put it on the angle, lift it up a couple degrees and grind. No jigs or anything, the backside I just lay flat. I go to a 12k Shapton Pro to finish and end up with razor blades for wood. Brand new chisels are fairly dull I think but even just that technique on the 12k only and they’re seriously sharp
I've started using the "hand tool pattern baldness" quote when people ask why my left forearm is missing patch of hair, and I only get back blank stares. ;D
I have the Sweethearts. All the handles fell off again this winter when their wood contracted. I picked them up and they were all in separate pieces. Had to glue them on in the end. I’m also thinking of getting chisels with narrower side bevels, although then I would use another excuse for not getting my dovetails right. But the Sweethearts do cut well and sharpen well. I actually have an almost identical Sellerish sharpening setup with the same board and same brand and size diamond plates, except that I use course, fine and extra fine, not medium.
Great video! Can you make a video of how to sharpen all of the convex and concave plane iron blades for your Stanley No. 45 and 55? That would be very helpful.
I use window cleaner as a lubricant and just wipe them after each use. that keeps them clean so they do not clog up. once they clog up they are hard to clean. If you use steel wool you are just filling the stone with more steel. I prefer to use a a fine brush.
You do know that no video on sharpening is complete until someone starts yelling that your doing all wrong, right? It's sure not gonna be me! Good video mate!
You know it's funny as this may sound I never thought to use a belt sander belt to grind on the edge I always tried doing it on my power grinder and ruining it then I'll have to send it away and pay Rockler to get fixed LOL thanks for the idea..imadummy
Last time my chisel fell off of my bench it hit the cable of my new orbital sander. Like a TV episode of Batman......Pow....Bam...Bang... and the ol' gospel tune "I saw the light" at once
I have struggled for months with sharpening. Then I succeeded. Conclusion? "Any idiot can sharpen, even on a piece of sandpaper. The real difficulty lies with flattening the backs!"
Hey James, just stopping by from your Instagram. Love your editing style, shop setup, intros and extros... Good job! Sharpening, it seems, is so subjective. I just watched one from Stumpy Nubs about diamond sharpening plates. He has an entirely different take on sharpening with diamonds and mediums used to keep them clean while sharpening. It's actually very informative! Anyway, here's the link to that video if you or anyone else here is interested. Thanks! ruclips.net/video/zBND6emsSE4/видео.html
surprisingly the floor is more comfortable. doing it at the bench means your arms have to do the work of pushing it down. that can drain you fast. on the floor you can put your body weight into it.
Prevention is better than cure. I always lay plywood sheets below and around my bench so that anything that falls to the floor hits wood, not concrete.
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Very good and helpful demonstration. Since watching your video, I have only sharpened free hand for all edges except my #45 cutters. I find it very satisfying. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I appreciate your discussion of body position and motion. That's the real key there.
So true. The whole body does the sharpening.
Great explanation on how to sharpen a chisel free hand. Exactly what I was looking for!!!
Thank you!
Great video with a good explanation. I can't believe the chunks of hair you removed.
Sure proves it was sharp
Thanks for sharing your skills
Hi James, I started with handtools just around an year ago and then I realized how critical was the skill to sharpen. Being a complete novice I went with sharpening jigs, especially a side honing jig and I feel that was essential for me to begin with to understand the basic concepts and be able to get a decent amount of sharpness on my tools in order to progress. Now I do realize that freehand sharpening would be so much fun and quicker. So, as per your recommendation, I have just recently started sharpening just my chisels freehand. It does seem to take a bit longer for me to feel that burr but that is most likely because I haven't built any muscle memory and I am hoping it comes soon.
Also, I don't intentionally shoot for a camber but I do seem to be getting one on my chisels which look good and I don't mind unless they are going to impact the sharpness or usability.
Another problem I am facing is that the narrower chisel seems to be getting skewed (the edge is not accurate 90 degree). Any suggestion to help with that.
I am still not confident to use freehand sharpening on my plane blades since I believe they will require a bit more accuracy and a camber there might cause problems - I am not sure. But I do want to eventually use freehand sharpening for all tasks.
The camber on an iron or chisel is not a problem from heel To toe on the bevel. But if you're getting it from side to side that can be an issue. Usually that means you're putting too much pressure on the outside and not enough on the inside or your body mechanic is off and you're rocking at the arm. If a smaller chisel is starting to develop a skew then just put more pressure on the side that is long that will bring it back in after a few sharpenings.
@@WoodByWright Thanks for explaining this. I thought I read or saw somewhere that said the camber (from heel to toe) could cause problems in certain cases with bevel down planes if it prevents the edge from touching the surface. If this isn't really a practical concern then I would want to start sharpening my plane blades as well freehand soon because I do agree that it is much more fun, fast and satisfying!🙂
A little bit of camber is not a problem. If it gets extreme to the point that the angle at the tip is greater than 40°, then it will start to inhibit the cut. But that's a very extreme camber.
Great as usual James. Keep feeding the viewers the basics, it's very important
will do Chris! thanks!
"Hand Tool Pattern Baldness" thats woodworking GOLD!. Nice video.
+Jorge Araujo lol thanks man.
Thanks, Bud!!! I will keep coming back to this video for sure...once I get to play with my chisels! :)
+JimMyra Wright just a couple days away!
Once again exactly what I needed.I am mostly a power tool user but I am slowly but surely growing my collection of hand tools.Your videos inspire me to do things hybrid way.And since I am young (14) I can't really use most power saws(because my parents don't let me to).So I have to call my dad to do the cutting.Your videos really help when my dad is at work so I need to cut using hand tools.😉
Greetings from Serbia.
+Aleksamaker sweet man. I would love to see what you make.
Many thanks for this and your other video on different sharpening systems. As a noob to hand sharpening, this was instructive and easy to follow. Well done!
Thanks. My pleasure.
Thanks a lot because have people like you. I'm new in this and i need help, and ideas bot this is perfect for a beginning.
thanks! my pleasure. ask any questions you have.
Great sharpening technique & nicely explained! That has to be the one shop job that I really dread doing. If done wrong, it can really ruin your day. As you noted, practice makes perfect... Good video..............Steve
right on. I use to be the same till I got confident with it.
Was just about to buy a job but now I'm thinking may be I should just learn to sharpen freehand.thanks for the instructions
it takes time and practice, but once you get it is is so much faster
I agree the jigs did look a bit of a faff on. i will give it a go this weekend. thanks again
Great tutorial. Thanks, James. The body movement is the real challenge, I think.
+Johann Botha that it is. Thanks Johann.
I love chisels. They can be handy also as a screwdriver
They're also very useful for opening paint cans.
Another great tutorial, James!
thanks man!
Great James. Nice method. I know this can be REALLY COMPLICATED for some people. Love your instruction methods...cheers..rr
+Richard Rider thanks Richard.
Excellent timing, my dmt stones just came in and I built the same setup using the poor man's router plane. Sharp edges is making a hell of a difference. I thought I just didn't know how to use a no. 5. Thanks Man! (Going to try to comment my thanks more and share to increase traffic, don't worry about responding)
thanks man! Very true. a sharp edge makes a world of difference.
Any thoughts on Shanon Rogers' method of stropping before the edge is dull, as maintaining a sharp tool? As he says it won't sharpen a dull edge, but it will keep an edge sharp. I've been trying this with my chisels, keeping my strop close, and it seems to work rather well.
youp. I do that for my carving chisels a lot, I am just to rushed to do that with bench chisels. something I am working on but most of the time I wait too long. lol
I heard back in the day people used their palm to strop. Never tried putting some compound on my hand, I don't believe it will stay there. Maybe strapping some leather on the arm or legs ready to go would make it a quicker process, instead of reaching for the dedicated bench strop and moving it away every 2 minutes
I wouldn't use my palm, that's just asking for trouble. I keep mine on a block made from 2x8 right next to where I'm working.
Buy a 1 micron and .3 micron sheet of 3M lapping film. Flat surface to attach it to, and use it to strop. It’s insane on chisels as it doesn’t convex the edge at all. And 1 sheet is like $4, each sheet makes 3 or so strips, and each strip lasts multiple months.
Nice.. tanks for sharing sharpening step by step
My pleasure!
Thanks for the nice video. Could you tell me what grit you used when grinding on the floor. Thanks
It depends on how bad the blade is. If it needs a lot of work I start at 36 or 50 grit. If it doesn't need that much I might start at 60 or 80.
Thanks.
Another good and very useful video.
thanks David.
Thankyou for responding. Really liked the video.
thanks you!
Do not forget After-Shave-Lotion ;)
Thanks 4 sharig. That (Sharpening) was my very first skill i learn.
+DrCRAZY lol thanks. Best skill you can learn.
A good method. Great video. One note I have learned from working in the bearing industry is to make sure you use a non ammonia glass cleaner. Ammonia will corrode steel very rapidly, we were not allowed to even have it in the shop in the Aerospace department.
interesting. as a pilot we do not use it on Wind screen as it can eat away at the poly of the wind screen.
I was out picking blackberries with the mrs. when this super idea for an on line tool and wood supply shop for your video channel James!!!! And what would I call it???? "The Wright Stuff" (stroke of genius on my part OR WHAT!)
cheers...rr
LOOL I like that! I might have to find a way to use it. thanks Richard!
www.imdb.com/title/tt0086197/ You might be too young to remember? enjoy your Sunday with the family...rr
I'm working on my skills with this I find a 1/4" chisel is harder to sharp thoughts?
+Mike Fulton yup the thinner the tip the more difficult to control. Just takes more practice of the same skill times I your arms locked so the chisel does not twist.
The long process of grinding, but necessary. With a sharp tool to work a pleasure!
so true! thanks!
Any thoughts on the microbevel or convex grind? It should make the edge last longer and reduce sharpening time.
a micro bevel or convex do not make the edge last a measurable amount of time longer, but the micro bevel does save some time for sharpening initially. but takes more time in the long run. at least that is my opinion. most all hand held sharpening does put a bit of a convex grind on the edge.
I dig you're videos man. Keep it up.
+LAUNCH thanks man I will.
Great tips James, I think my biggest issue with sharpening is I just don't do it enough!
LOL yup that is a problem most have.
Nice hint!👍
thanks man!
I just learned a new word... "YeaahoaOK." Great information.
+Bill Hart a great word to know.
Hi there from Portugal,
I also sharp mine by hand but the small ones almost always get skewed, no problem if the have +12mm :D
Obrigado(Thanks)
LOL yup!
thank you
I know you don't do this often or at all I think, but could you please do a review video of some sort on the 6 pc Harbor Freight chisels you recommended? (it was it in a later video I think) Thanks!!
I do not do review videos but I do like those chisels. They're not the best in the market and the handles are painful but they work fairly well. Another cheap set that I often recommend is the set from Aldi. They only come out once a year but they are $7 and well worth the money. That's my main set of chisels
Awesome information and video
+Thom spillane thanks Thom
Does the quality of the steel have to do with how sharp you can get the chisel to be? In other words, will a cheap chisel be as sharp as a higher quality chisel?
thanks for the video!
for most tool steels the only major difference is in how long the edge lasts. if you were to get down on an atomic level you would see some steels having a slightly sharper edge, but not enough that anyone can tell the difference in use
oh okay. thanks
anyone here able to offer some advice?
i currently have a grinding wheel and a coarse/fine diamond stone. I was also gonna grab a strop and some compound. is there anything else i could conceivably need? the diamond stone says it's 400/1000 grit, but i don't know if that really means much.
You should just need that and the strap and buffing compound. as long as you keep the edge good there's no reason to take it back to the grinder. That's usually the best way to ruin an edge. But if the diamond plate is a good one that is all you need.
I laughed really hard at that intro xD keep up the good work
+enderstenders96 thanks. I will.
What are your thoughts on putting a micro bevel on the front edge?
Not a big fan of it personally. Just a waste of time in my book, but a lot of people like it.
I originally used three stones, since that's what Paul recommended, but now I jump from coarse to extra fine.
I often do that too. I mostly use the middle one for normal touch up I generally use course when I am fixing a ding.
Wood By Wright Roger that
Jumping stones is basically what you do between your fine stone and the strop, so no problem with that. I have a hard time trying to understand people bying a 400, 600, 1000, 4000, 6000, 8000, 10000, etc. That's pretty much 700 bucks spent for nopt much
Great video James very instructional. By the way what brand are your Diamond Stones?
they are DMT. here are the ones I use. www.woodbywright.com/tool-suggestions/sharpening
im confused a bit. ive been watching a lot of sharpening videos and am not sure if you're sharpening the entire bevel or just the tip. microbevel, secondary bevel yada etc...
+scott shevlin I am not a micro bevel fan it is a short term gain long term loss in my book, but everyone is different. I sharpen the whole bevel.
So I’m an amateur with chisels, but I sharpen knives for restaurants and other customers on stones. With chisels I buy, I just take the new chisel put it on the angle, lift it up a couple degrees and grind. No jigs or anything, the backside I just lay flat. I go to a 12k Shapton Pro to finish and end up with razor blades for wood. Brand new chisels are fairly dull I think but even just that technique on the 12k only and they’re seriously sharp
One of the great things about this sport. there are thousands of different ways to do it and everyone finds the way that works well for them.
THANK YOU
thanks Klaus!
I've started using the "hand tool pattern baldness" quote when people ask why my left forearm is missing patch of hair, and I only get back blank stares. ;D
LOL yes! love those looks!
For the stop what side is up smooth or the fuzzy side? I can never tell.
I use both but generally, I keep the rough side up. I do some times use the smooth side with out compound just as a buffing to make me feel good.
Nice !!!!
thanks man
Do you recommend the new Stanley Sweetheart chisels?
I am not a fan of socket chisels, but a lot of other people are. as to the steel they are good. and not half bad for the price.
I have the Sweethearts. All the handles fell off again this winter when their wood contracted. I picked them up and they were all in separate pieces. Had to glue them on in the end. I’m also thinking of getting chisels with narrower side bevels, although then I would use another excuse for not getting my dovetails right. But the Sweethearts do cut well and sharpen well. I actually have an almost identical Sellerish sharpening setup with the same board and same brand and size diamond plates, except that I use course, fine and extra fine, not medium.
Great video! Can you make a video of how to sharpen all of the convex and concave plane iron blades for your Stanley No. 45 and 55? That would be very helpful.
I actualy did a video on that about a year ago. if you search for "Wood By Wright how to sharpen a Stanley 45" it should be top of the list.
When you get to be as old as me you'll stop shaving your arms like that. Thin skin is real for us old guys...
how to clean dtm stones? mine after one hey year of usage even if i use some wool, they still look dirty...
I use window cleaner as a lubricant and just wipe them after each use. that keeps them clean so they do not clog up. once they clog up they are hard to clean. If you use steel wool you are just filling the stone with more steel. I prefer to use a a fine brush.
@@WoodByWright thx for the information. do you have any advice how to clean up as they are clogged now?
Do you follow the same process with plane blades?
basically yes! difforent grip but same steps.
You do know that no video on sharpening is complete until someone starts yelling that your doing all wrong, right? It's sure not gonna be me!
Good video mate!
LOLso true! What no Micro bevel!!!! UNSUBSCRIBE!!
that intro! You are gonna get in trouble for chisel abuse if you keep that up...
+Frank McCane lol you should try doing it on porous it is so hard to do.
What stone do you go back to if the chisel is only cutting a few hairs in one pass?
The highest grit or possibly only the strop.
Thank you. Love your video!!
Well......did what you said.....every hair gone....what grit do you go to if there is blood? 🤪🤪
Nathan, I'd say that's sharp enough ! 🤔🤭😄
You know it's funny as this may sound I never thought to use a belt sander belt to grind on the edge I always tried doing it on my power grinder and ruining it then I'll have to send it away and pay Rockler to get fixed LOL thanks for the idea..imadummy
LOL there is a funny story their somewhere.
I feel that little wheel sharp thing will make a real hollow edge if you want that.
Last time my chisel fell off of my bench it hit the cable of my new orbital sander. Like a TV episode of Batman......Pow....Bam...Bang... and the ol' gospel tune "I saw the light" at once
LOL sounds like a fun time!
Where did you get your diamond plares?
+Noknees Looney there is a link in the description to the Amazon site I ordered them through.
Physically hurt me to watch the chisal drop in the beginning
LOL yup. you should try doing it on purpose for a video. it hurt me to do it and know that I was doing it on purpose! LOL
I cringed! lmao
Can't agree more: "First and most important woodworking skill is to get a very sharp edge (or teeth)"!!!!
right on!
It is not first important but it is necessary to be a good woodworker.
I have struggled for months with sharpening. Then I succeeded. Conclusion? "Any idiot can sharpen, even on a piece of sandpaper. The real difficulty lies with flattening the backs!"
+Tome4kkkk very true. Can't make the best chisel sharp with out a flat back.
Where did you get the holder for your files in the back stage left of your wall
here you go. amzn.to/2vJ4Czf
Thanks! Really appreciate the quick reply. Reminds me of why I really enjoy being a subscriber.
Hey James, just stopping by from your Instagram. Love your editing style, shop setup, intros and extros... Good job! Sharpening, it seems, is so subjective. I just watched one from Stumpy Nubs about diamond sharpening plates. He has an entirely different take on sharpening with diamonds and mediums used to keep them clean while sharpening. It's actually very informative! Anyway, here's the link to that video if you or anyone else here is interested. Thanks! ruclips.net/video/zBND6emsSE4/видео.html
yup that is a great one. everyone has a different method. got to find one that works for you!
That opening gave me a heart attack
lol you should try doing it on purpose just for a video!
Why grind on the floor and not that nice flat bench?
surprisingly the floor is more comfortable. doing it at the bench means your arms have to do the work of pushing it down. that can drain you fast. on the floor you can put your body weight into it.
the nix prefer to go by Stevie these days...
You and Paul Sellers both use glass cleaner on your stones. Why is that? Curious.
it evaporates quickly so it will not rust the plate. and it is cheap. all it needs to do is wash the steel shavings out of the grit of the plate.
Why are you trying to scrape the diamonds from the plate?
I think you need to rephrase the question. I do not understand what you are asking.
Stop testing your chisels sharpness in your head man!!! Not cool... Great video as always!!!
+Pablo Andrés Morales Muñoz lol why?
Prevention is better than cure. I always lay plywood sheets below and around my bench so that anything that falls to the floor hits wood, not concrete.
+MadMulberry good move.
Plates
There is no letter T in across.
Depends on where you're from lol