Note : There is a mistake in your wiring diagram V4. From the connector north of the CDI the brown should go to ground and the black to the coil post. You have drawn it the other way round. In the video you hesitate when connecting and switch so you get it right ;) Besides from that, your videos are brilliant and I can't even begin to tell you how grateful I am for the time I've saved and for the many mistakes I surely would have done otherwise. I'm wiring up an R100RT -81 with an m-unit and with your vids it's easier than putting together IKEA furniture. Thanks again and keep up the good work!
i have got the Carr 451 - it stops charging at 14.5V theoretically. I think i will wire it as well to AUX2 ( i think it is possible to go on Ignition or after the Key lock aswell ) you didnt use a Transistor in your final version or ? Thanks for all the videos !
Hi mate yeah I know I'm late to the party!!! But I am currently doing my own R80rt build and am currently looking at the charging system can you tell me if the Rick's 14-100 is working well for you? I have done a bit of research myself and keep getting pointed to the Rick's 14-0012 which they state is made for the R80/R100 its probably the same unit but with different plugs it says the 14-100 is a Honda fit? Does yours work ok?
Hello, I’m currently on the same stage as this, I’m trying to find a ricks sport 14-100 but I keep getting sent to a 14-00012 reg instead. Do you know the difference ? Also in the system your making are you not using the diode board Thank you for you help !! Loving the videos
Hi Jordan. I think the 0012 is a newer version. The Ricks website shows compatible bikes and the R80 is listed. The Ricks reg/rec does the same job as the diode board so it’s no longer needed. There was a lot of chat around the need to retain the charge lamp in the charge circuit however eventually left that out too and I’ve had no problems at all. Hope that helps. 👍
@@TheLongWayThereUK Thank you so much for the reply, that has helped me out massively and cleared it all up in my head, thank you again for the information and the amazing videos !! Have a great day
fantastic videos. an absolute staple channel during my first build of a '91 R100. question regarding the alternator; is there some type of transformer or whatever (rig wreck?) that let's you use the original alternator to safely charge a lithium battery?
Hi very good video. I have a question for you, i ve buyer in US revival the reg/rec 14-100 type B i have put 3 yellow wire cable in stator After white wire in DF small green wire in D- and reg wire in positive battery black wire ignition m-unit and big green wire direct in negative battery. When i push start botton the small green wire that are in negative battery are soo hot why this problem If i continus i think the thread mela and catching fire. What do you think? Where i make the error? Please can you help me i need to finishing my project
Hi Umberto. Honestly I do not know the answer to your question but I can tell you that the technical help from Revival is excellent. They helped me out on a few things. If you bought the Ricks from them they should help for sure. 👍
Hi mate. Thanks for all the information on your page, really helpful, keep it up! Question about the charging circuit though. I'm keeping the original diode and voltage regulator on my R100 RT '82, but using a M-unit and a aftermarket speedo. I'm almost done wiring, but can't find any good info on where to connect the blue D+ and black wire to that are coming out of the voltage regulator. Can you help me out on this one?
Hi again, on your wiring diagram you have a black wire from the reg to the negative on the batt. I dont see any black wire on the video? is it a mistake on the wiring diagram ? :)
Great video and thank you for sharing your valuable experience. Really appreciate your effort. I am trying to remove this front panel of the engine cover where the charging mechanism is connected so that I can remove the cover to have it resprayed in black. I cannot find the episode where you covered the removal of this panel? Can you please help? many thanks
I’m not sure I covered that to be honest but it’s just the 2 bolts either side and it just pulls off. It might need a gentle tap with a soft-faced hammer if it’s stuck on. Disconnect the earth from the battery first tho to prevent shorting out the diode board. Good luck! 👍
The Long Way There. Thank you for your reply. Does this mean I only need to unscrew the two screws on the left and right and don’t need to take off the diode board and the other electrical bits? I am sorry if this sounds like a foolish question in advance 🙂.
@@Shafiq1969 Hey mate, I see this is 2 years old but just in case anyone stumbles across this... There is the first cover plate that uses 2x M6 bolts. Removing this exposes the alternator, diode board and points system or ignition control. If you want to get to the timing chain etc, you need to remove the alternator cover and magnet assembly, and then the alternator rotor using a special bolt. You'll need to remove the diode board and ignition control unit also (this might be a points system or points in a can system depending on age).
Hi, Love the episodes very well done!! I am currently doing an R80 RT 1982 and hoping to use an M-Unit setup the same as yours. I know its cheeky but I don't suppose I could pick your brains regarding the ignition system?? Danny.
Legend - Although you may regret it lol! Ok, basically my R80 '82' has the 2no. coils and the points ignition system. Im trying to establish firstly if the M-Unit works with this type of system and secondly if I change the coils to a single dual coil like the dyna-coilDC9-1 (to save space for M-unit) do I also need to change the ignition system to an electric one and also change the regulator rectifier? Hope that makes sense....... no worries if your not sure but thought its worth asking as you clearly have a good understanding of the R80 electrical system!!
Ok. This is just my opinion/understanding. Firstly, yes the m unit will work with your current system. I can’t vouch for the Dynacoil option but I do believe the Bosch dual output coil is a direct replacement for your bike. Here’s a link to the Motorworks site so you can check compatibility. www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=20&Ct=IA&SbCt=BA_15_20_IA_22 As for changing the rest, I think the various after market options are discrete plug and play - meaning you can swap out some or all of the system to whatever your budget allows. In my case I changed out the reg/rec because I needed to match the lithium battery requirements. I could go on and swap out the icu or install one of those EME charging systems with optical electronic ignition - but that’s a lot of money and what I have works ok. However, if you want to check out that stuff take a look at this guy. I get my understanding from researching and watching stuff like this. ruclips.net/video/b-4B0O6P5b0/видео.html Does that help? 😉
Hi - Thats great really helpful and gives me a good steer. Out of interest whats your thoughts on the M-Unit blue? Do you think it was worth installing? by watching the vids you made the process look relatively pain free....... Also do you use the keyless smart phone function? Regards
I think the m-unit I’d great and I’ve found it fairly easy to work with. This is my first attempt at bike electrics and the m-unit is easy to understand. I’m not going to use my phone to start the bike - I’ll be using the m-lock rfid keys.
Hi sir Is the ESR450 can fit my 1984 r100? I want change the traditional battery to the lithium battery. If yes , is the connect method same like yours?
I was advised by my local dealer that the ESR450 was the right one for my 85 r80. However, my lithium battery required a specific voltage range which the ESR didn’t match. So... best to check the voltage requirements on your battery and check that it matches the ESR. Hope that helps.
I honestly can’t answer that one. I spent forever looking for a solution and I’m not sure I found one. I “think” you wire the resistor on the ignition wire but don’t quote me. The solution I went with didn’t use a resistor and it seems to be working just fine.
The Long Way There. Thanks for the reply, i actually just fried my volt reg so i just bought that reg/rec from electrosport.. hopefully that works haha
Hi Man, I'm a french guy following you video because i'm doing the same on my R100 RT, not all the stuff for the moment but soon, (missing the motoscope pro) while i was doing my research for the charging circuit i've found these information.I've got an REG/REC Electrex 445 and they give us this information : www.dropbox.com/s/f5ekhntoafnc693/Battery%20Types.pdf?dl=0 If the link doesn't work go to electrex and search Electrex 445 there's information about the kind of battery we need to use. I hope that will help us to run our bike to go DRINK Corona. Maybe we will see us at the wheels and wave at Biarritz in "maybe" september. See ya.
I returned it to the store with a photo of the voltage reading and got a refund. I’d seen similar stuff posted on an Airhead Facebook group so I’m guessing it wasn’t the first time they had had this complaint. Now I’m all sorted with a Ricks reg/rec and it’s perfect. 👍
Could I have one too please? I’m a few steps behind you on an ‘84 R80 tracker build, loving the videos and your honesty with the setbacks. Many thanks mrnigelpearce@gmail.com
I have wath all your videos about the bike, the video's about the electric are the best ones to find on RUclips and most helpfull. Could i have the pdf also by mail? I start the electric of my r80 soon. Thanks !! Roegiersfrederic@hotmail.com
Hi , I have a BMW r100rt would be really helpful if you could list any books or online resources you have found useful as I am not a mechanic and would otherwise struggle just found out auf actually means on not off ! . for the pet cocks lol.
Hi Richard. Thanks for your comments. Resource wise I’ve used the Clymer manual (which is essential reading in my opinion) along with the Haynes manual. Other than that I’ve used RUclips. Revival Cycles, Chris Harris, Boxer2valve etc are excellent. To be honest, not many channels give the detail I needed and that’s why I stared this one. I’m glad you’ve found it useful.
@@TheLongWayThereUK Thank you ,I was going to buy a Haynes manual is the Clymer better?Those resources are great cannot understand how the BMW R100RT which has huge worldwide sales, and to many Police forces has the fewest DIY guides .Who will you buy your custom parts from?.For a machine thats stood for 20 years in a dry garage I have probably work ahead of me the foul fuel for starters.Please advise If I turn engine over on starter with spark plugs removed will that help coat the internals which are invariably dry or is there a better way ?,sorry too many questions I won.t be a pest.
I forgot another key resource. Facebook groups. One called “Airheads BMW motorcycle riders” is a particular rich source for answers to questions like the one you just posed. But to answer your specific questions, Clymer is better than Haynes but it depends how much spannering you plan to do. For basic stuff Haynes is fine. Any custom parts I’ve either made myself or pulled a favour so I can’t suggest a source for you. And yes. If you turn the engine over without plugs it will still lube your engine. Just make sure there is oil in it. 😉
Great vid! Good that you’ve moved closer to fixing the regulator issue! Looking forward to the next vid!
good job and timely as I am doing the same to my R80
Note : There is a mistake in your wiring diagram V4. From the connector north of the CDI the brown should go to ground and the black to the coil post. You have drawn it the other way round. In the video you hesitate when connecting and switch so you get it right ;) Besides from that, your videos are brilliant and I can't even begin to tell you how grateful I am for the time I've saved and for the many mistakes I surely would have done otherwise. I'm wiring up an R100RT -81 with an m-unit and with your vids it's easier than putting together IKEA furniture. Thanks again and keep up the good work!
i have got the Carr 451 - it stops charging at 14.5V theoretically. I think i will wire it as well to AUX2 ( i think it is possible to go on Ignition or after the Key lock aswell ) you didnt use a Transistor in your final version or ? Thanks for all the videos !
Cool, thanks for sharing. Will be useful for my Moto Guzzi 1000 SP as well. Has the same Bosch alternator as the BMW
Great video man!!
Respect!!!
Hi mate yeah I know I'm late to the party!!! But I am currently doing my own R80rt build and am currently looking at the charging system can you tell me if the Rick's 14-100 is working well for you? I have done a bit of research myself and keep getting pointed to the Rick's 14-0012 which they state is made for the R80/R100 its probably the same unit but with different plugs it says the 14-100 is a Honda fit? Does yours work ok?
Hello, I’m currently on the same stage as this, I’m trying to find a ricks sport 14-100 but I keep getting sent to a 14-00012 reg instead.
Do you know the difference ?
Also in the system your making are you not using the diode board
Thank you for you help !! Loving the videos
Hi Jordan. I think the 0012 is a newer version. The Ricks website shows compatible bikes and the R80 is listed.
The Ricks reg/rec does the same job as the diode board so it’s no longer needed. There was a lot of chat around the need to retain the charge lamp in the charge circuit however eventually left that out too and I’ve had no problems at all. Hope that helps. 👍
@@TheLongWayThereUK
Thank you so much for the reply, that has helped me out massively and cleared it all up in my head, thank you again for the information and the amazing videos !!
Have a great day
@@jordonbeer9236 no problem.
Muy buen trabajo amigo, tengo un sueño y es realizar un trabajo como el tuyo!!
Espero que puedas vivir tu sueño Javier.
@@TheLongWayThereUK 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
fantastic videos. an absolute staple channel during my first build of a '91 R100.
question regarding the alternator; is there some type of transformer or whatever (rig wreck?) that let's you use the original alternator to safely charge a lithium battery?
Hi there and thanks. Yes I’m using the original alternator and a Ricks regulator/rectifier (reg/rec) abs that’s charging just fine.
Thanks man, keep the videos coming!
Hi, love your video's. Very helpful. Did you change to ricks reg rec? I am trying to figure out if the green or white goes to the DF
The white goes to the DF. You can download my wiring diagram from a link in the description on episode 50.
Hi very good video.
I have a question for you, i ve buyer in US revival the reg/rec 14-100 type B i have put 3 yellow wire cable in stator After white wire in DF small green wire in D- and reg wire in positive battery black wire ignition m-unit and big green wire direct in negative battery. When i push start botton the small green wire that are in negative battery are soo hot why this problem If i continus i think the thread mela and catching fire. What do you think? Where i make the error? Please can you help me i need to finishing my project
Hi Umberto. Honestly I do not know the answer to your question but I can tell you that the technical help from Revival is excellent. They helped me out on a few things. If you bought the Ricks from them they should help for sure. 👍
@@TheLongWayThereUK manu tkx
Hi mate. Thanks for all the information on your page, really helpful, keep it up! Question about the charging circuit though. I'm keeping the original diode and voltage regulator on my R100 RT '82, but using a M-unit and a aftermarket speedo. I'm almost done wiring, but can't find any good info on where to connect the blue D+ and black wire to that are coming out of the voltage regulator. Can you help me out on this one?
Did you find an answer to this? I have the exact same issue. @The Long Way There
How long does it take me to get complete wire rs 80 in Nigeria
Hey mate, what program do you use to draw your wiring diagrams? I’m sure you’ve been asked a thousand times. Cheers mate 🇦🇺
I used PowerPoint.
I want to know something, with the m-button the lights as the turn sinal appear in the motoscope? Thanks
Only by using a breakout box. That’s on my “to do” list.
Ok thanks. I do have that box also to out in the bike.
Check episode 50. 😉
Hi again, on your wiring diagram you have a black wire from the reg to the negative on the batt. I dont see any black wire on the video? is it a mistake on the wiring diagram ? :)
No mistake. I’ve changed to a Ricks reg/rec and it has different coloured wires to the other one.
Great video and thank you for sharing your valuable experience. Really appreciate your effort. I am trying to remove this front panel of the engine cover where the charging mechanism is connected so that I can remove the cover to have it resprayed in black. I cannot find the episode where you covered the removal of this panel? Can you please help? many thanks
I’m not sure I covered that to be honest but it’s just the 2 bolts either side and it just pulls off. It might need a gentle tap with a soft-faced hammer if it’s stuck on. Disconnect the earth from the battery first tho to prevent shorting out the diode board. Good luck! 👍
The Long Way There. Thank you for your reply. Does this mean I only need to unscrew the two screws on the left and right and don’t need to take off the diode board and the other electrical bits? I am sorry if this sounds like a foolish question in advance 🙂.
@@Shafiq1969 Hey mate, I see this is 2 years old but just in case anyone stumbles across this... There is the first cover plate that uses 2x M6 bolts. Removing this exposes the alternator, diode board and points system or ignition control. If you want to get to the timing chain etc, you need to remove the alternator cover and magnet assembly, and then the alternator rotor using a special bolt. You'll need to remove the diode board and ignition control unit also (this might be a points system or points in a can system depending on age).
Hi, Love the episodes very well done!! I am currently doing an R80 RT 1982 and hoping to use an M-Unit setup the same as yours. I know its cheeky but I don't suppose I could pick your brains regarding the ignition system?? Danny.
Sure Danny. What’s your question?
Legend - Although you may regret it lol! Ok, basically my R80 '82' has the 2no. coils and the points ignition system. Im trying to establish firstly if the M-Unit works with this type of system and secondly if I change the coils to a single dual coil like the dyna-coilDC9-1 (to save space for M-unit) do I also need to change the ignition system to an electric one and also change the regulator rectifier? Hope that makes sense....... no worries if your not sure but thought its worth asking as you clearly have a good understanding of the R80 electrical system!!
Ok. This is just my opinion/understanding. Firstly, yes the m unit will work with your current system. I can’t vouch for the Dynacoil option but I do believe the Bosch dual output coil is a direct replacement for your bike. Here’s a link to the Motorworks site so you can check compatibility. www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=20&Ct=IA&SbCt=BA_15_20_IA_22
As for changing the rest, I think the various after market options are discrete plug and play - meaning you can swap out some or all of the system to whatever your budget allows. In my case I changed out the reg/rec because I needed to match the lithium battery requirements. I could go on and swap out the icu or install one of those EME charging systems with optical electronic ignition - but that’s a lot of money and what I have works ok. However, if you want to check out that stuff take a look at this guy. I get my understanding from researching and watching stuff like this.
ruclips.net/video/b-4B0O6P5b0/видео.html
Does that help? 😉
Hi - Thats great really helpful and gives me a good steer. Out of interest whats your thoughts on the M-Unit blue? Do you think it was worth installing? by watching the vids you made the process look relatively pain free....... Also do you use the keyless smart phone function? Regards
I think the m-unit I’d great and I’ve found it fairly easy to work with. This is my first attempt at bike electrics and the m-unit is easy to understand. I’m not going to use my phone to start the bike - I’ll be using the m-lock rfid keys.
Hi sir
Is the ESR450 can fit my 1984 r100?
I want change the traditional battery to the lithium battery.
If yes , is the connect method same like yours?
I was advised by my local dealer that the ESR450 was the right one for my 85 r80. However, my lithium battery required a specific voltage range which the ESR didn’t match. So... best to check the voltage requirements on your battery and check that it matches the ESR. Hope that helps.
If i wanted to wire an led light as a substitute for the charging light bulb, i should use the resistor right? How am i suppose to wire a resistor?
I honestly can’t answer that one. I spent forever looking for a solution and I’m not sure I found one. I “think” you wire the resistor on the ignition wire but don’t quote me. The solution I went with didn’t use a resistor and it seems to be working just fine.
The Long Way There. Thanks for the reply, i actually just fried my volt reg so i just bought that reg/rec from electrosport.. hopefully that works haha
Be sure to check that the output voltage isn’t too high. I’ve had to replace mine as it was outputting over 15v. That will wreck a battery in no time.
Hi Man, I'm a french guy following you video because i'm doing the same on my R100 RT, not all the stuff for the moment but soon, (missing the motoscope pro) while i was doing my research for the charging circuit i've found these information.I've got an REG/REC Electrex 445 and they give us this information : www.dropbox.com/s/f5ekhntoafnc693/Battery%20Types.pdf?dl=0
If the link doesn't work go to electrex and search Electrex 445 there's information about the kind of battery we need to use.
I hope that will help us to run our bike to go DRINK Corona. Maybe we will see us at the wheels and wave at Biarritz in "maybe" september. See ya.
Did you complain to electrosport about the over charging? Maybe a production error?
I returned it to the store with a photo of the voltage reading and got a refund. I’d seen similar stuff posted on an Airhead Facebook group so I’m guessing it wasn’t the first time they had had this complaint. Now I’m all sorted with a Ricks reg/rec and it’s perfect. 👍
Please
hello would it be possible to have the pdf of your electrical circuit by email ?
Sure. Just drop your mail address here.
gobinbenjamin@gmail.com thanks
Could I have one too please? I’m a few steps behind you on an ‘84 R80 tracker build, loving the videos and your honesty with the setbacks. Many thanks mrnigelpearce@gmail.com
Can I have one too please? william.spilsberg@gmail.com
I have wath all your videos about the bike, the video's about the electric are the best ones to find on RUclips and most helpfull. Could i have the pdf also by mail? I start the electric of my r80 soon. Thanks !! Roegiersfrederic@hotmail.com
Hi , I have a BMW r100rt would be really helpful if you could list any books or online resources you have found useful as I am not a mechanic and would otherwise struggle just found out auf actually means on not off ! . for the pet cocks lol.
Hi Richard. Thanks for your comments. Resource wise I’ve used the Clymer manual (which is essential reading in my opinion) along with the Haynes manual. Other than that I’ve used RUclips. Revival Cycles, Chris Harris, Boxer2valve etc are excellent. To be honest, not many channels give the detail I needed and that’s why I stared this one. I’m glad you’ve found it useful.
@@TheLongWayThereUK Thank you ,I was going to buy a Haynes manual is the Clymer better?Those resources are great cannot understand how the BMW R100RT which has huge worldwide sales, and to many Police forces has the fewest DIY guides .Who will you buy your custom parts from?.For a machine thats stood for 20 years in a dry garage I have probably work ahead of me the foul fuel for starters.Please advise If I turn engine over on starter with spark plugs removed will that help coat the internals which are invariably dry or is there a better way ?,sorry too many questions I won.t be a pest.
I forgot another key resource. Facebook groups. One called “Airheads BMW motorcycle riders” is a particular rich source for answers to questions like the one you just posed. But to answer your specific questions, Clymer is better than Haynes but it depends how much spannering you plan to do. For basic stuff Haynes is fine. Any custom parts I’ve either made myself or pulled a favour so I can’t suggest a source for you. And yes. If you turn the engine over without plugs it will still lube your engine. Just make sure there is oil in it. 😉
@@TheLongWayThereUK THANK YOU very much I am a welder but not a mechanic so time to learn again,,,