DuB-EnG: Black & Decker Lithium Battery Charger problems, teardown, repair troubleshoot fix...
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- FLASHING LED not showing on your charger? - Don't throw out your old charger!! The switch mode power supply has died in the plug / socket / wall wart - you can easily fix this by connecting an alternative power supply.
You've just saved me £27. I watched your vid and replaced the plug, Hey Presto - working charger.
Now that’s the kind of comment that makes me happy!!! :-). Great to know!! I hope it’s a 21 volt charger... you’ll need that to hit the 18v capacity of the battery... all th best!! Howard
@@DubiousEngineering I spoke to soon. The green light flashes but doesn't give any charge. I'll strip it all back down and rewire it tomorrow just in case I didn't do it right first time.
@@mcw68 did u ever fix it. Mine keeps flashing red very rapidly.
@@tonykari5124 no, thought I had, but didn't charge up. Ended up buying a new one.
This charger ruclips.net/user/postUgkxknS1MWclRHOKWekYXnBJz8Ex0rEPnrGF works great with the DCB205 and DCB203, I've charged both a few times without issue. After I'd searched for a while this was the best value charger I found and it's new, boxed up well, and it's built as well as any charger I've had.
Haha 😄... B & D is basically DeWalt 😀
One of the best videos on RUclips clear crisp instructions to the point
No silly music no rubbish talk.
Well done mate good video and
Thank you
Awww!!! Thank you!!! ... we will be doing more brewing in the spring. Consistent Temperature is important ... and this winter is up and down like a pair of nickers!!!
Great video. Replaced faulty unit with a spare 15v power supply, and it's now charging. Thank you 👍
Happy days dude 😎 !!!
@DubiousEngineering Spoke too soon 😪 Charger ends up flashing red, same as @tonykari5124. Battery charges fine with original charger. Maybe the power supply isn't quite right?
Amazing! I didn't know whether it was my drill, the battery or the charger that was faulty. I gave this a go and it worked a treat. 10 mins effort saved me a load of money. I wonder whether B&D have realised that their power supplies are rubbish, or whether they don't care. Thanks a lot!
Pleasure... for a full charge find a 21volt power supply... perhaps an old laptop charger ?
This chopping off the plug and connecting to a solar panel is ABSOLUTELY AMAZING. This has fixed my charging problem and also made charging free….. INCREDIBLE THANK YOU😀
Aww thanks man... yes indeed, free power :-) 😀
Amazing idea, and here's the kicker. I have everything I need already sitting around doing nothing! Boat battery solar panel maintainer, and a few chargers.
Boom 💥 :-). Happy days
Thank you so much, changed the plug end from an old router and is now charging👍you da man!
Awww sweet... make sure it’s about 21 volts and the charger will take the battery to the max :-)
I found one of many power supplies like that and just replaced white to white and black to black and charged my battery that was causing me to wonder - is it the battery or the drill. It was neither. It was the charge block. Thank you for the education.
Absolutely 💯 pleasure 🙏 bud! Glad you got yours sorted 👍
I was having issues with my 40v charger indicating overheat. The fix was CRC contact cleaner and a tiny screwdriver to clean the contacts, free and easy.
That's great news thanks for the tip!
You are a brilliant man Howard. I am not good at figuring out electronics. Cheers mate
Thats very kind! - Thanks - key thing to note here, avoid this type of charger from B&D!! :-)
Just what I needed. Now I can screw the charger straight thru, between the metal contacts, out its rear into a bracket where I will line up 4 chargers with space to clip and charge 4 batteries at once.
Happy days!! Great job bud!!
Awsome. You´re de guy! Just a few minutes and you solve two problems. One, the problem of my B+D leaf blower and second, an old notebook charger that was intense shelf-space competition with my wife stuffs :-)
Really happy it helped!!
Awesome! You just saved me 35 EUR!!! ... found a conventional (transformer & rectifier) no-name wall wart 9V/500mA and it's working great!
Glad I could help - You may need a little more than 9v - try 20-22v
@@DubiousEngineering Will do! Thanks for the info!
I suspect that when it says on the side of the charger "8-20v" that is not to tell you that a charger anywhere between those voltages will work, that's to tell you that the charger itself varies it's voltage according to the need of the battery.
So yes, a 12 v power supply will get you a flashing green light, but the charging will be inefficient and you risk damage to the battery.
Why would a lover voltage risk damage to the battery? But yes I agree with you! Aside from potential damage.
its called repeat business...😇 thank you for shareing.. well done sir😇
Good man !!!
Long story short. I spliced an old laptop charger to wires of the dead cordless charger. Works like a charm. Thanks.
Epic! - Very happy to know you're sorted!
Luckily none of our chargers have died but good thing i watched this so i know how to fix them. I wonder if they just didn’t design with 240v in mind
To have 4 units all die inside one year is a litte poor... Great news! The solar panels are keeping my garden equipment running!!
Nice video Howard! Excellent reuse! Perhaps you could send the broken ones (if you're not fixing them off camera) to big clive? He might find the common cause if there is one.
Thats a good idea, to have 4 units all die inside one year is a litte poor... I'll pop him a note... Great news! The solar panels are keeping my garden equipment and drill running!! It's so nice to have the shed back - space to make stuff and work on projects!
Thanks for the video, this worked a treat, i found an old adapter 9.6V 350mA output, once hooked up, it started to charge the battery straight away.. 👍🏾 you just saved me pounds & Pounds on a new charger..
you may need to find a 20v adapter to fully charge the batteries...
@@DubiousEngineering you are right, just a feedback to this, the voltage i was using didn’t charge the battery although the indicator was flashing green. I will have to source either a new original adapter for it or get hold of a 18V adapter.
@@Sohail-xw2xu Hi how did it go? Run into the same problem - flashing green but not charging, what voltage/amps worked for you. Cheers
Genius, your cut and hack attitude got you a sub.
Awww thanks man! :-) 😀
I always wondered why those adapters showed a range like 9 to 20V ? I had one I pulled from a car jumper/air pump which kicks out 14V at 750mA and will see if B&D battery will charge up after being stuck at 9V Thanks You may have saved me some $
Good luck, you may need something closer to 20v.
@@DubiousEngineering yep it went up to 14.5V
By golly, it worked. Thanks for posting it.
Happy days!!!
those security bit rubber cubes are like 2-4$ on ebay may have gone up bought mine years ago
I have a full set of security drivers now 😀
I don't understand how the router power supply will "know" to stop charging the battery... won't it over charge?
The intelligence is in the plastic clip on module ... that keeps an eye on the battery voltage. Best, Howard
Any ideas why a black and Becker battery blinks green for judt a few mins then goes solis green but still jot charged or charging? Any help appreciated. Thanks.
Measure the voltage of the battery…. or try another battery…
Great video, I know what I’ll be doing next summer on the roof of my shed. Quick question though why are your batteries marked 18 V and here in Canada are batteries are 20 V? Also a quick tip, if you find Porter-cable 20 V batteries at 5 or 6 mA hours they will work on a Black & Decker tool. all you need to do is cut a notch on the left side of the battery to make them fit in the black and decker tool otherwise they’re an exact duplicate. I found this out on a video on RUclips. Mike from Montreal.
Oh cool!! I had no idea black and decker were so popular in Canada
Alright, let's see why the switch mode power supply failed!! I'm betting it was a fusible resistor!
Interesting point. Isn't a fusible resistor another name for a fuse? Forgive me but I'm not being silly, I'm just a beginner in practical electronics.
I may do a little further digging... I guess I was just happy to have a solution and move onto the next project!! - Finishing the jkoysticks build for the coffee table, amiga laptop power BMS to install, and my wifes familys old FAMICOM to refurbish... And other short projects and interviews in-between... (Just keeping you up-to-date on whats coming). All the best chaps!!
Thanks man, I run onto your video because I have the same cases. My b&d charger doesn't work. And I don't believe it is battery or the charger controller because I do check the cables and the plug charger doesn't flow current. So, look like I'm gonna do some modifications now.
Good luck with the mods ... use a 21v or more psu
@@DubiousEngineering Oh ok. Thanks man
Dam I dont have solar power, but thank you I now know what the problem is with my charger and not the battery. The red light flashes even without the battery......
Connect it to a 21v DC supply and you’ll be sorted :-)
Incorrect for me. The plug end is putting out 24volts DC as it should. But the charge controller part with the flashing light is stuck on red flashing mode and refuses to put out voltage to the battery. Suppose I’ll have to bypass it but be careful I don’t overcharge the battery.
Hi Tom, have a look at the imax B6 charger... it’s not expensive and will charge / discharge many batteries... I love it
The solution did not work for me either. I took a working charger & wall power supple pair. I cut the cable and connected thre charger to a bench top power supply. (I was also hoping to use the idea to charge battery packs in my shed.)
The green light flashed, but the supply's current meter indicated zero current. (I checked with the bench top supply set to various voltages, but no success.)
When I reconnected the original plugtop power supply, the charger worked; flashing green LED and current delivered to battery - confirmed with a meter.
Any ideas?
Great post.............found an old 12vdc charger that was 500ma........works great.............thanks
You may need to find something with a higher voltage output... unless it’s an old transformer PSU ( the 12 v transformers can chuck about 21 volts out and that’s what you need) 21 volts !
This is great, I found a 15v old style transformer which is working right now. Are you saying the old (heavy?) ones will be better for this? I couldn't find anything higher than 15v
Aha!! The 15v units will put out about 20 volts Peak ... that’ll work!!
Nice one cheers!
Hi , I've 2 drills with the chargers not working,
It's a A9277 18v sl13yd battery , any help to charge this please
If you're in the uk, I may be able to build you a charger, but you may just want to buy some new tools :-)
Mine is also broken... Just bought a new fast charger. If only I knew... B+D probably wants to sell more chargers zo they give the ones that easily brake for free with the machine.
Exactly!! :-( Sorry you spent the money already...
Hi Dub, I’ve bought a generic charger and switched it to 18v, but the light still doesn’t come on!?, any advice?, many thanks. Mark
Hi Mark, so sorry to hear, sounds like the charge end of the cable has died rather than the power supply.
Does this then mean (in simple terms) that I can just replace the "SMPS" (switch mode power supply) with a linear power supply, as long as the output voltage is at the correct level.
By "correct level" is that then minimum 18V, although 20V-21V would be better?
Nailed it!
I had a b and d showing faulty battery, but after checking the batteries everything was fine. But still charger shows blinking red light. Confused to what to do.
Any suggestions appriciated.
Cut the cable and check the output of the wall socket with a multimeter... if its not around 20 volts then the psu has failed. Sadly, it may also be a fault with the sensing technology in the charge end.
@@DubiousEngineering seems like something wrong with the board connecting the batteries, check the voltage it's showing 25vs. Batteries are all working good, Seems like I need to replace the board.
I have a B&D 10.8V electric drill and the switching power adaptor isn't working. If I were to replace the power adaptor, what power adaptor should I choose? On it it says 8-20v. Pls advise. Btw, I hooked up a 12V 500mA adaptor. When plug in, green light is blinking, but it doesn't seem to charge.
I'm not sure if that device works the same way. Is it NiMh, LiIon or NiCad battery?
@@DubiousEngineering mine is LiOn battery
My issue is how the battery... Which is a twenty volt version. They increased the voltage so the cells are charged to 4 volts. In mine one cell, 18650 size, is a bit more charged than the other 4 cells.
I've ordered a BMS board to have the cable so I can drain that one cell down equal by plugging it into a battery conditioner.
Hmmm... Thats annoying. Good luck!!
20V(20,27V) 4.5A not working..(laptop charger).
Or was working 5sec 😂
Start to smoke (two 1MH5, diod? ) no current limiter on the board?
Yeah that should have worked... no idea why it let the smoke out!
Actually it's just happen to mine. I bought a b&d 7 months ago and the charger suddenly flashing red.
Even though I rarely used it.
So I guess the sockets is the problem. I'll try to find something and fix it like yours. Thanks.
Find yourself a 21volt supply if you can... that will do the trick!!
Addendum: HIGHER voltages apparently work better - 9V (500mA) gives you extremely long charging times, so long in fact that the charging controller goes into failure mode with a time-out...
You need about 22 volts to hit the max charge levels at 500ma or more.
@@DubiousEngineering Hooked up my lab power supply so I can control voltage and current properly - works great!
@@f.d.6667 how are we to not overcharge the battery and burn down the shed? if we are just turning the power on with no timer or sensing circuit?
Hello, my charger is fine but the head (with flash light) is dead. Do you know the output voltage from the head ? How much voltage the battery should have at full charge ? Thanks
4.2 x 5 = 21v when fully charged
I sat down with a 20v and tge b&d little plug in type.. but its not the power supply part you plug into the wall its a microchip inside of the chargers.. if you leave it plugged in for a while it will automatically reject every battery you put in it.. if you discharge all the tiny caps in the unit then it will charge the battery like new.. I thought it was fishy when instantly the charger would reject and not even test the battery in the slightest.. so it was on auto reject. It was the same one you took apart in thr video.. but i had a security bit.. but if you look between the pins theres a square microchip that is unnecessary but installed there to do this and cause buyers to get a new battery when the things fine... or what works is if you unplug the power supply from the board then it will reset and charge again..
This is a very interesting point... So, you suggest leave it unplugged for a period of time to let the caps dis-charge and then have another go?
probably a stupid question (am a nervous novice with electricity) but can I just connect a bog standard spare plug I have kicking about (rather than the fancy solar powered thing you did)?
Please describe your "spare plug" - and i'll advise!
@@DubiousEngineering Hi, thanks for the response. I just meant like a standard fused 3 pin (although not connecting the earthed pin) I can buy from a local hardware shop
Hi, i have a 20V 2.5A old lenovo laptop charger. will this work?
Hi James, yes 20v should just about do the trick!! - All the best!
Will the charging control electronics let through more current than the original 400mA if I replace the power supply with a higher current one? That is, can I make these small charging heads charge faster with a stronger supply?
A little you need 22v and 1amp
@@DubiousEngineering is that 1amp the max? Not bad, but still, 2 could be better :)
Oh ta! Many thanks, that's a great fix.
Glad to help - thanks Tony!
Süre 4:45 sol taraftaki entegre bendeki modelde 3 bacaklı ve devre üzerinde yok. Kayıp ve patlamış, bir türlü ne olduğunu bulamadım. Çok araştırdım ama sadece bu videoda rastladım.
I need to translate this :-) 😀 ... have fun!
@@DubiousEngineering Evet bizde çok eğleniyoruz. Ama İngilizce evrensel dil değildir. Seni anlamak için bizde çevirmen kullanıyoruz.
Bu arada şarj aletinin işlemcisini yaktım, artık gerek kalmadı. Teşekkür ederim.
I have an old notebook charger with manual adjusting voltage (From 15 to 24v) but the output is 4.0 A. Will It work?
Yup that will work!
@@DubiousEngineering Thanks a lot man, the green light is finally flashing! You save me time and money!👍😉
Happy for you mate!! :-). Excellent work’nn
Mine stopped working, I had a 24v, 2.5amp, 60w, so connected that up, charging fine, but I can smell an electrical burning from the charger head. It's been unplugged for a day, but the circuit in the head doesn't like it! Too much voltage or current? I'm not going to use it again, will get another charger if you can recommend me a better spec. I believe the spec on the original plug was 18V, 400mA. I can easily buy one with 20v or 21v, not sure what current it should be rated at. Thanks
Thanks for sharing... its interesting as the original charger puts out a higher voltage too. I had a look on ebay the other day - theres a chinese company sellling compatible chargeers for £12
Great stuff
Thanks Dennis!!!
Thanks alot for the video and explanation
So, If the charger sits with solid red, even with battery fitted, its the power supply socket, not the battery?
Sometimes it's related to the charger. Try another battery if you have one!
Can anyone explain why the original switch mode power supplies are constant current? Seems odd unless the charging circuit depends on that.
Let’s hope not!!! The charge controller looks like a microcontroller PWM system so should be able to regulate the current. Everything seems to work well from my 20 volt solar panels. The battery has an low voltage cutout BMS on board too.
It does depend on it. The wall-wart contains a 400 mA constant current source with an 8 to 20 volt compliance. (It actually tops out around 21.5V) If you connect a conventional 20V power supply that's not current limited, it may appear to work but you run the risk of damaging the battery. What saves you most of the time is the charging head contains a temperature sensor that hopefully cuts off charging before the battery catches fire.
I had to reverse engineer this a while back because I wanted to charge these 20V LBXR20 battery packs from 12V. The solution is easy and cheap without designing my own power supply. Amazon sells an array of power supply modules in the $15 price range with nice digital readouts of voltage and current. There are buck, boost, and buck-boost versions. These power supplies can run on 8 to 35 volts and can be set to output 8 to 35 volts or to function as contant current sources with adjustable compliance. Use a boost or buck-boost supply, calibrate the current to 400 mA (or a bit higher) and 20V compliance. Mount it in a nice enclosure and done. Easy peasy.
Won't work with my deceased B&D 36v charger, alas.
Ahhh 36v - different model
L literally just bought a new charger and a new battery and NOTHING. they still won't change. My drill works with my other battery, but yeah. What a waste of 55$ bucks
Wow ... hope you kept the receipt!! 😀
Super helpful, thank you
Happy days!!
Dodgy edit just before the battery bank segment. Great use of those charge controllers though. Take care stay safe.
Desmond's Donders I’m glad it wasn’t just me who had that dejavu feeling .
Hahah... welcome to the matrix!!! Sorry about that!
@@DubiousEngineering No worries I put it down to a glitch in the Matrix.
Hi can you explain where you attached to solar panel ,did you go to charge controller input as I have one solar panel going to charge controller can I go into that or do I need another solar panel
Hi so sorry, this was years ago now. I'm sure you'll figure it out. You can put up to 22volts into the charge unit
@@DubiousEngineering thanks for reply ,I'll just buy a 21v supply unit and charge from mains but would have been good to use me vans solar to charge batteries
Is it safe to change the B&D power supply (which said output power 8v-20v) to 21v or more?
21V is fine... you may even get away with 24...
:( in my situation the part which is bad is the controller . The problem is that the 5V regulator failed (by short) an destroy something in the one or two ICs . I can not manage to identify the ICs (smd) . Can you help me with a schematics or the SMD ICs part number (or schematics) of the little PCB? The model is Black $ Decker BDCDC18 . Thank you!
I'm so sorry - I dont have a CCT diagram, and the cips looked like they were custom, couldn't read numbers off them.
what's the problem when the charging indicator flashes red
and the green indicator no more
Great question!! - I need to look into that, i find that if i re-seat the battery, the flashing red stops and it charges!!
Worked for me! Thank you.
Glad it helped
Hi. Nice video Howard.
Just a simple question, does a DC 21V 2A switch mode power supply safe enough to cut the long charging time? Thanks.
Hi Jack, yeah the charge circuit is indeed limited on current delivery so chuck an old laptop power supply at it and you’ll have the same result so long as your about 20v or more output!!
@@DubiousEngineering oh well, I just keep it as it is then. I thought i could just cut and replace it with the new power supply to decrease the charging time. Thanks for the reply Howard!
It will help with the time... maybe 4 or 5 hrs
Superb matey 👊
Glad it was of use Mark!
I'm an indian user with a black and Decker drilling machine and my charger(Model no. LCS1620) isn't working as well !! It just shows up red light blinking without even connecting to the battery! So for finding an alternative adapter is it really necessary to choose the adapter with an output amps of 400mA as rated on my original adapter? Or can we use an output of 20v Dc and 1A ?
Or can you suggest any?
It would be very helpful for me
Sir, you can use a 20v 1a power supply! The electronics in the head unit will take care of the charging regulation. Thanks for your question! :-)
Whats type of 2 chip transistor or fet
Good question, I'd need to open it up again!
@@DubiousEngineering iam very thankful to you about reply
Please kindly the FET p or c type or transistor its urgent thanks
How to fix if the soket was broken
Not the adaptor?
hmmm not sure what you mean...? more info please!
Omg amazing top man you saved me a couple of quid
Glad I could help! :-)
@@DubiousEngineering could I use a 24v plug ?
What's a squid??
I got a brand new Charger and a new Battery and it's STILL flashing red rapidly. WTF ... what a waste of $ black & decker SUCKS
Aww... booo... black n wrecker :-(
@@DubiousEngineering is that possible though for a new charger and battery to do that same red flash rapidly BS
I have the 9.6 volt 18 volt charger for the 18 volt Black & Decker drill batteries. It's only ever had a solid green light when it's plugged in and I've never seen it flash. The battery is due seem to charge up, slowly, but I never have an indication of whether or not they are charging or complete.
That’s a bummer mate... I have not looked inside a dual voltage charger. If I see one I’ll be sure to make a video on it!
Thanks good knowledge
Happy to have helped
Sir, is there any idea to via pass battery by direct DC adaptor
Really not sure what you mean here, sorry!!
Nice video!! my Battery charger is on but just shows f-ing red flashing light hardy use my cordless drill for hard work mainly basic diy work now both batterys doing it just over 1 year old wtf
Help needed
Yeah that sucks... get on the makita or DeWALT range if you can... they have battery management circuits to help charge and protect... otherwise, buy an imax b6 charger ... they aren’t expensive and it’ll charge your battery properly!!!
great idea! keep up that way ;)
Thanks 🙏 and I’ll keep trying to find solutions to my little problems :-)
Can i plug it to a wall outlet?
Please don’t!!!
Thanks!
😀
Now i can screw again! Thanks
Hahah.... great 👍 to hear!! :-). Make sure to use the hammer action :-)
When led green is continues blinking what its mean?
Good question... mine is red blinking and then green solid. Didn’t see green blinking before!!
@@DubiousEngineering but it is working
then be happy my friend! :-)
Okay wait so for real you can charge a 18v battery pack with a 12v power supply? Is the charging circuit boosting the voltage? I always assumed the charging circuit would buck down, never thought it would boost up?
Yeah it doesn’t have a boost driver, so chuck 20 volts at it - my solar panel dumps out 20v
@@DubiousEngineering ah bum! Got excited for a minute there!
Most charger packs are several 3.6v lithiums wired in series to give 20V. So in effect you are charging all the batteries up to 3.6V
Mark Swint yes you need 21volts or so to fully charge the pack... I’ll do an update video
Got a brand new B&D strimmer that uses an 18V 2AH battery. It's almost more of a toy than a tool but nevertheless it could be useful if the battery didn't run out in less than 30min, and the charging takes 5 hours because this stupid charger only delivers 0.4A of current.
If the piece that plugs in the wall is the part that limits the charge rate to just 0.4 amps I could use this hack with some 2A charger for a more reasonable charging duration.
Quite disappointing really how crap the included charger is, by comparison my Makita reciprocating saw has a 5A charger with a built in fan that cools the battery internally so it's safe to charge it at that rate.
I make adapters so you can use your makita battery on your b and d strimmer. Let me know if interested... best, Howard
@@DubiousEngineering
Thanks for the offer but the postage alone would add up to the cost of a spare battery since I'm rather far from the UK.
I've done some electronics repairs before, so I can probably manage modding either the charger or battery or both. Still need to get the proper torx bits though.
Nice hack Mate 👍
Thanks man!! :-)
Works great thx
Glad it helped... you need about a 21v PSU to fully charge the batteries
Nowadays, because plenty of stuff is battery operated, we end up gathering dozens of chargers. Don’t ask how many I have😃😃. All my Ryobi batteries are charged in the car using a Ryobi in-car battery charger.
iMaxB6 is a brilliant charger for loads of batteries 🔋
@@DubiousEngineering
I’m not familiar with that charger. For now I have a heck of an array of chargers for Parkside, worx, Ryobi, Milwaukee. I even have a liitokala lii-500 for charging 18650 cells and so on. Please, I don’t want more chargers 😂
Will a 32V power supply work?
Suggest putting a large wire wound power resistor in series - maybe 50ohm or so if you have one at 5watts ... 32v may be a little tooooo powerful :-)
@@DubiousEngineering thanks! I found a 24V 210mA supply that's doing the job... slowly.
I don't know WTF you're talking about. I have used a B&D 20V charger for years with NO issues what so ever. Maybe you stop slaming these things on your work bench. They are after all electronic devices that are rather delicate!
Glad your having no issues... Take a look in the comments here, there's a lot of people who sadly are struggling with multiple failures. It's possible you have a more modern version? Best. Howard
how i know its fully charged
The green light stops flashing... make sure you use a 21volt power supply
Mine has a fuse inside
Interesting to know, thanks!
dry joints/broken connections inside the wall charger and shorted smd capacitor inside the part that you plug the battery into to charge it. and no...they don't/wont work/charge on 8 to 20 volts...they will only work/charge the battery with a wall charger that will supply 18 to 20 volts @400mA upwards. one of the worst pieces of Chinese crap I've had the displeasure of working at...the drills ok but the "electronics" is pure rubbish!
Totally agreed 👍... pure rubbish! 👌
The world full of miss information.
The world full of stuff that fails just after warranty!!
Planned obsolescence.
It's a real pisser😡
Actually... Bose are the real nasty beggars... with their Qc headphones...