Did SLA Printers win the tabletop war? (not yet)
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- Link to the Tank STLs:
knarbmakes.itc...
www.myminifact...
I've been spending some time printing some custom proxies for my Imperial Guard army, and I've been using 3D printed parts. When oriented with the most visible surface upward, FDM printers can deliver amazing results with high resolution and minimal layer lines.
By carefully slicing, and planning my parts, I was able to make some awesome looking tanks.
Anycubic Vyper: bit.ly/34h8UAE
You can also access the 3D plans from my Patreon: / knarbmakes
![Chino Pacas - Modo Capone (with Drake & Fuerza Regida) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zjv8TQ0gBkg/mqdefault.jpg)
Link to the Tank STLs:
knarbmakes.itch.io/battleborn-class-battle-tank
www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-battleborn-class-battle-tank-200551
Hey man, you got the STL Files for that baneblade? I would love to have it as I am just getting into 3d printing because my work allows us unlimited free access to their 3d printers, on the weekends only)
A link would be much appreciated!
@@helpmepls7154 bump
Did you ever find it?
He has not replied to any requests, my guess is that GW slapped him hard for it. lol@@helpmepls7154
My son printed a Lehman Russ Proxy on our Ender 3. If he doesn't say anything, no one notices it's a proxy, even when it's right next to his official model. I've also printed several miniatures with FDM, and gotten amazing results. The keys are to use thin layers, and slow speed. It does take more time, but it's not a race. Now if I can just convince my wife we need a resin printer, too...
Exactly. If you have an Independent dual extruder printer you can do two at the same time if they both fit on the build plate. It's about creativity and also affordability GW is insane with their pricing.
Show her the math of how much money you can save
better to ask forgiveness than permission...an age old saying:) I bought my SLA when on sale on Amazon recently and now want a FDM unit as well.
I went ahead and bought a resin printer cause I know it will get a lot of use for my prototyping of smaller more detailed parts that my fdm is having a hard time doing. There are far more options right now for resin printers and the price is actually far below than the more expensive fdms. I love my fdm's but there are models I need to print with high detail.
my wife reversed into my car on the drive. I shamelessly used the 'pain' to guilt her into getting a resin printer. As the song says 'love is a battle field !' lol :)
I got into 3d printing for small stuff that I didn't bother or couldn't make in wood (laptop stands, phone stands, keychains, flower pots, weather vanes for boats) then I found out about 40k and started printing tanks. I don't even play I just love the design and painting them
Omg I don't care about your lifestory
@@justicedemocrat9357 Is that the best troll you got? I got over that method 6 years ago LOL
@@stonerayven2455 You're not worth even a shit troll job.
@@ignaciasd1198 Go to bed, kid.
Thats cool, i got a ender 3 and started experimenting and lately ive been dabbing into miniatures too even when i dont play but i still have problems with little prints, specially if they are detailed
This was a great video, Knarb. Great job showing the value of good orientation - and really great work with those tanks!
Thanks Danny!
Both FDM and Resin serve well. Use good quality filament and a good profile such as Fatdragon and you will come out with amazing results.
FDM for large scale objects and Terrain.
Resin for miniatures and detailed models.
Combinations of both gives amazing finishing products.
Can you recommended what filament work great? I looking to buy a ender 3 v2 soon.
@@nanowar1192I use NEEMA EVO line from Netherlands, works great and has large variety of colors
but then you need 2... now, I'm wondering, since filament is cheaper, is the money you save by using filament enough to justify getting 2 printers?
@@amaurythewarrior Sure it is.
@@amaurythewarrior the issue is filament is that much cheaper and you tend to get a little bit more out of resin.
Both technologies are complementary, one picks up where the other one leaves off. I personally have no use for a resin printer and the increased resolution, but I find something to print out of PLA or TPU almost every day.
Exactly. SLA printers compliment FDM printers they don't replace them. Plus I've been 3D printing for years and I never get bored of watching an FDM printer at work.
@@edstar83 I don't even want to know how much time I wasted watching a printer working, lol.
Both definitely have their uses, and I don't think that either one "kills" the other. Neither are redundant or obsolete technologies.
One is a knife, the other is a screwdriver. Sure, you can turn a screw with a knife, but it will be suboptimal... And it will be equally suboptimal to try to butter toast with a screwdriver.
Generally - if you're aiming to make minis, I would say that a resin printer should be your first acquisition, as they are easier to use, require less tuning, have fewer variables, and make much more detailed and high-resolution prints with a very high degree of reliability. This works well for D&D miniatures, WH40k miniatures, KOW miniatures, and several other games. Additionally, most of the minis released through the likes of Loot, Myminifactory and Cults3D tend to expect that you're going to be printing them from an SLA resin printer.
At a later date, if you find yourself wanting to make vehicles and terrain on a more regular basis, feel free to reach for an FDM model. I use an Ender 3, which is an entry-level, cheap FDM printer model that will give pretty decent results if you aren't worried about a few defects. I mostly use it for cosplay elements, and I can attest that it works spectacularly in that role. The larger print bed is definitely a huge plus. Additionally, I tend to find that well-printed FDM components are noticeably (but not massively) more durable than their resin counterparts. a 2mm thick, 3 inch long, 1 inch wide strip of printed resin takes significant and deliberate effort to break with your fingers. It does not yield, and will suddenly just shatter. An FDM component of the same measurements will be impossible to break with your fingers. It yields slightly before snapping cleanly.
Short version - different horses for different courses... But if your goal is to make minis, I would recommend an SLA. If you want to make cosplay elements or functional components, FDM is still king.
I second that
I use mine for practical uses. I print combs, hooks, and the quality for stuff like stands, holders, and storage
Cheap, convenient, and the filament lasts for a long time for me. There's no need for me to upgrade it.
@@yannickg6904 You watch because secretly your scared it will stop working and have a failed print and you might miss it. Same reason people watch Nascar. Hoping for a wreck. But not really but what if?!
I love how I got this in my feed after the whole GW+ stuff
Great tip, about the orientation. Still not convinced to buy one, but included magnet bed and auto-leveling do make this one tempting. Nice vid, Knarb
Right on!
@@KnarbMakes I can't decide if I should buy a cheap Anycubic or a cheap FLSUN.
It's horrible.
I bought the Anycubic Vyper a few months ago and have been printing buildings and terrain pieces with it.
I love it. What a great printer!
I started 3D printing a little over a year ago with a resin printer. I got frustrated that I could not print large terrain pieces so I just bought myself an fdm printer and it's going great. I love the fact that it prints larger objects and the material is much more resilient since the resin tends to be brittle. I have also got myself some primer that's intended to fill small gaps. I've been told by Kathy Millett that it should do a pretty good job of hiding the layer lines.
Filler primer and a bit of sanding always goes a long way! Cheers!
"FDM sucks" - said the guy who only prints in the cheapest PLA with the default """super fine"""" cura profile
i've printed multiple vehicles on an ender 3 with Silk PLA and well tuned settings and they look about as well as resin prints
hell, i've had resin tank parts warp during washing and curing and not fit together
recently i tried printing some lightning claws and they look a bit dirty and blobby, but i'm convinced they'd look fine with a 0.3mm nozzle
"... dirty and blobby..."; paint them glossy red, and they become GORECLAWS, drenched in the viscera of your foes.
Speaking of slicers, take a look at prusa slicer, it's free and can support many printers. The settings and features outshine cura in my opinion.
Just picked up a brand new fdm printer for less than the price of a gw baneblade, now going to print off several baneblade and hell hound minis. Been resin printing for 6 months and have some tank and terrain files ready to go. Thanks for the video mate👌
Happy printing!
when I get a printer can I borrow those files from you ease friend? ☆
Where do you find the files for these - completely new to this printing stuff
Excellent review. Thank you!
It's really about the print size for me. I've got an Ender 5 Pro with a few upgrades and the quality is amazing. You need regular maintenance and a slower print speed, but you can really hide the layer lines if you take the time to dial in your printer, slow it down, and orient things the best way (as you mentioned).
The only thing an FDM printer cannot do is the incredibly small pieces like legs on miniatures. The precision just isn't there.
models = resin, terrain (and some tanks) = FDM.
Yep, it is not so much about choosing one or the other, their each have their strengths and weaknesses. Terrain and large vehicles are generally easy to print well on FDM printers, but if you are going to make anything smaller than a space marine dreadnaught, then you probably want to switch to resin.
disagree. it's purely cost. FDM is surely cheaper, but it's slower AND less detailed. The only reason my current terrain project isn't resin is because my bed is small. That's it.
Given equal surface area, SLA not only prints with greater detail, but faster. And the cost isn't too much higher.
The BEST option is framing in fdm, and attaching SLA detailed parts.
Even then, you're not saving much as a hobbyist. talking change on the dollar for hours of time.
Super great video, man. Lots of good information here!
Thanks Boylei. Can't wait for your next space western video! Cheers!
I know nothing at all about 3D printing, but those look ace I wouldn't be able to tell the difference.
Unless you’d actually tell me I wouldn’t of been able to tell myself
Each tool has its own area where it can shine. Personally I prefer over FDM over SLA. Once you got it tuned in it doesn't fail much and easy to setup parts for printing and requires much less work.I never understood the problem people have with bed leveling. I rarely level the bed once it is initially don and just adjust it by eyesight judging on the outcome of the first layer. On the other hand SLA is quiet and needs less space for the printer itself. It is faster than FDM too.
I never understood why people want to print whole terrain pieces in one go and then have to deal with layer lines.
Well said. I'm having fun finding good uses for each one and mixing up projects across both.
I honestly don't even care about layer lines; as for leveling, from experience it is usually because people will remove stuff while the print surface is still attached to the print bed. The result is the bed being jolted a bit out of level, but a bit out of level is all it takes.
By taking the build tak or glass plate of metal plate off to remove the print you can go a while before needing to relevel.
Your chassis design is so dope.
Thanks Andrew
What a time to be alive, great job mate 👌
This is great! I've been thinking about 3d printers for ages now and had basically decided if I ever get one it's going to be resin... but now it looks like i need both :P So many project ideas.
Also great to see another Canadian on here! fantastic work man.
They both have their uses, yeah. Hope this helps you decide better, or just get both!
Baneblade flex
Looks great! You're getting really good at printing!
Haha, I need to find a good name for it now.
I'm very much on the fdm for terrain, sla for models side.
that is madness how good those look
I also have a anycubic fdm printer but I've struggled with the settings for years. Your prints look fantastic by comparison!
Can you do a video about the orientation part? That would be great =)
Dang the orientation trick is genius! I do not have a printer but this seems like a super obvious solution that I would have easily missed if I had one!
Love how your army is coming along!
I've been trying to re-slice and re-orient other models I find as well. I see a side that would look a ton better printed flat, I just slice it off and place it on the bed and glue it on later.
Cheers!
@@KnarbMakes my top surface is always trash though. how do you improve this?
@@croggyjones7899 you can turn on ironing to improve it. Some slicers let you do this. I use prusa slicer for it
Yep. Orientation of the parts on the build plate is important. And doing your own CAD work...inevitable if you really want good results. I do the same as you mentioned in this video: mainly FDM and resin for the tiny greeblies. The new giant resin printers kind'a scare me! I have also recently jumped into working with Fusion 360 and wondering why I haven't done it sooner. Good content and a great channel! Thank you!
I appreciate the orientation advice, but the bane of my experiences with fdm has been stringing. Got a resin printer before fdm and just found the user experience to be a lot smoother. But you nailed the role fdm plays in table top gaming, though I'd still print tanks on my resin printer.
For sure. I've had a lot of frustration with FDM printers in the past. It takes a bit of learning to figure out the failure modes.
I still get some stringing, but I can mostly clean up the prints with a lighter and some light sanding.
Turn your nozzle temp down and enable combing mod for All within the slicer.
That's why they make stringing tests so you can dial in your settings to avoid stringing. Cura slicer has a built in extension that allows for this and works well. They also have a temperature test. You can use both on each filament you use to dial in the settings. It isn't difficult.
Lower the temp, increase cooling and dry your filament (if not using PLA)
I agree and really resin Printing is not much more expensive anymore perhaps 25-30% but the results are much better in my opinion plus I find resin Printing less of a hassle these days wth large format mono 4k printers and dedicated wash cure machines. FDM may not be exactly completely obsolete but it's just about there.. two years tops when medium format 8k printers price comes down. The industry is evolving quickly
Videos like these are great - because the post-process requirements for SLA mean that there is nowhere to put it in house, leaving FDM as the only future choice (but airbrush first) for hobbying - and vehicles and terrain would be the primary print subject anyway (and realistically, the printer companies will be working hard to get better FDM quality at lower prices)
Yeah, I've had to devote a corner of my workshop and set up a fume hood for my SLA printer.
Thanks for watching!
Great vid mate, I have the ender 5 plus and the ender 3 and yeah I admit they have been sitting there gathering some dust. Time to get them working again I think.
Well im definitely not going to have a bunch of dangerous fumes around and have to cure my prints so no thank you too the resin printer
Printing hulls in FDM and then all the extra's in resin is a neat idea. For me my FDM printer is just for bases, and terrain plus other odd tools and gadgets for around the house. At $12 for a roll of PLA+ and vase mode for most terrain pieces it goes a long way. You can print a whole tournaments worth of terrain for the price of 1 really nice table with plastic terrain.
Printing terrain for Bolt Action is what inspires me and larger more sturdy 3D prints for my robotics class ...
I only have a resin printer and I do see your point about printing larger volume things.
Great advise and technique, very new to FDM printing and am always looking for ways to make my prints look as resin printed as possible.
FDM is about $0.10 on the dollar of sla once its all said done with detail that is fine for vehicles and terrain. It can do figure but the SLA wins there. I routinely print 15mm tanks without issue or loss of detail in FDM, but can do infantry
I've seen extremely impressive results with people taking steps to compensate for layer lines and ghosting. TeachingTech just released a video about it. Plus, I see the appeal of a no hassle print that you don't have to wash and clean and cure after.
My first printer was an Anycubic Predator. Lots of potential with a bunch of quality of life features that you have to install yourself on other printers, but it went out of production without warning and parts dried up quickly. Seeing as how it had a few parts that just liked to break, I eventually just had to give up on it.
actually, it's the opposite. I have an Anycubic I3 Mega, Tronxy x5sa pro, and an Anycubic Photon S. The Photon is the one gathering dust. I can print detailed items on it that are too small to print on the FDM's, but I seldon print quite that small. I like the Photon, but it;s the prep and cleanup where it looses out to the FDM's. I can print most things on an FDM, it's easy to slice, supports are simple and intuative. Clean up is also very easy. With the Photon, I find slicing very tedious. I have to make sure every island is supported. When a print fails not only is it ruined, but I have to clean up everything to make sure I remove any parts that got left on the FEP. For most of my print, I would rather deal with the layer lines, stringing and so on, rather than deal with the mess and cleanup of the SLA. Maybe I'm just lazy.
*loses
But yeah, I love resin printing…. Except for the resin…. It gets everywhere and it’s toxic.
you forgot the main evolution: non planar 3d printing... can be used on any 3d printer, but if you go to 5d...
yeah, i was just thinking priting a eldar tank would turn out pretty bad with all the shallow curves turning out like tiny steps. put printing those curves smooth should produce a much better result/
I have both a resin and FDM printer, and the key is to play to their strengths. I’m a model maker, so being able to print in polystyrene on the FDM is a huge plus. Polystyrene prints beautifully, is light weight and strong, and sands easily. It bonds well using Tamiya model cement, so I can easily add kit part details. I typically only use the resin printer when I need highly detailed parts. These usually will be super glued to a larger piece that was built up on the FDM.
I came for the title but I stayed for this man's art
Very clean! Not sure if you know, but if you enable "Ironing" you'll get a very smooth top layer as well. It helps eliminate the crosshatching on the top layer.
That's really impressive printing!
Thanks Euan!
Well now I am going to try that alternate orientation thing you mentioned.
the coolest calmest tuber around!!!
Since their beginings in 2012 I knew I should wait a decade to afford one that will not only be cheaper but also the quality will be better. The time wil soon come.
I wish I knew about this printer before I got the Flash forge Adventure 3. It's a good printer, but it's more expensive and has a smaller bed size
I have a resin printer and now I want an fdm for larger pieces that don't have a ton of little detail. They both have their place until resin comes down in price. If that ever happens there may be a case for FDM not being the best option but I imagine filament would just go down as well making the whole thing a moot point. Either way they both seem cool.
Your leman Russ that you display in the vid look great. When I look at the files for sale, they look like a different tank? Looking for a leman Russ unless I’m mixing things up. Thank you.
SLA is absolutely the way to go for anyone at home printing high detail figures, small scenery and jewellry (for casting). I think for almost every other purpose FDM is still the winner - it's cheaper, the build volumes are higher, there is less mess, stink and chemicals to worry about.
Okay... this is tempting given I want to print big toys as well as standard marines.
That was some fantastic work on the tanks!
They both have amazing uses
If you have room for both get both
I want to start with 3D printing, but I'm still not sure about that. Initially, I wanted to make detail pieces for "environments" the kind of things I can't really make another way, especially when it has to be replicated numerous times (sci-fi bits). Then I saw you could get good results on minis as well with resin... but resin is more expensive and has a lot more constraints...
How dare you come around here changing my opinions… I was quite content looking down my nose at FDM printing…
Great video mate, those tanks look killer!
Haha! Each tool has it's place. Cheers!
FDM are must haves for big vehicles and terrain.
Apartment dwellers and resin printing.
Spilled resin is bad enough, but when the damage is someone else's property, things get interesting.
OK, you are going to have new carpet installed, but how to convince the Landlord that the resin soaked floor-slab doesn't need work, too?
You'd be in a tight spot; Landlord is required to notify the next residents of hazmat spill, they can show loss of income to a Judge.
If you gonna resin-print, do it in the kitchen sink!
Nice!!!
I've always prefered FDM because of its ease of use and not needing extra precautions to use.
Nice video!
What is that gunship at 0:30?
Also, consider taking those zip ties off your Bowden tube and decouple it from your wiring. Might save a failed print down the road.
How can I print the baneblade ?
An advantage maybe not so relevant for table top is the ability to mix materials. Double extruder FDM printers are nowadays very affordable and there you can for example either print with soluble support or mix PLA or PETG with flexible materials like TPU, having flexible hinges etc printed in place. There are also more engineering materials available. While resins have upped the game I am still not so convinced about their long time performance, compared to for example a PC-ABS filament.
And then there are full multicolour options available from Prusa the MMU2s (5 filaments) and the newest Mosaic Palette (8 filaments), where you can print in up to 5 or 8 colours, respectively (even more if you change filament in between manually). But those are extremely wasteful and, harder to dial in and very slow the more detailed and the more colours you want to print.
I fight with my Ender3 almost daily to try to get it printing again after changing the springs... but I do love it for terrain.
Yeah, the constant maintenance can get tedious when you just want something printed. It's always a lot simpler to fix than I hype it up to be though, hah.
BL Touch is the best money you will spend for an Ender3.
Also, I am sure you know, but make sure all the cams on the axis wheels are tightened correctly to remove the slop.
Funny - had the Anycubic Mono (SLA) first, now i bought the Anycubic Vyper because of the print size for part which dont need such details. They complement each other and i mix up my models with both printers. SLA for detailed stuff, FDM for large stuff.
Ngl, the result you got on thos tanks are pretty impressive.
That said, let's be honest here, flat tank armor parts is probably THE best case scenario, and while it does fantastic there, I wouldn't be so sure that it would do any of your standard 32MM infantry.
I got my FDM printer because I love lost wax casting, but I am NOT good at sculpting wax. My FDM printer runs wax filament for these projects... and I can do some parts manufacturing with reinforced nylon.
Those are the only two things I use it for. So while SLA has better precision... that precision just doesnt fit the materials I want to use.
The more I look into the differences between FDM and Resin printers, the more I'm convinced I'm never going to buy a resin printer.
The downsides of FDM all look like surface imperfections that go away if you figure out the right settings. Even if a print goes wrong a little bit of filing, sanding, and the right paint job can turn the most screwed up print into a terrain piece. Too many artifacts on a vehicle mini? Cut it in half and paint it so the imperfections look like rust or mold/moss and you have a great set piece for a battlefield map/diorama. Too many cracks, lines, and sharp angles in a character mini or a figurine/bust? Paint it bronze or sandstone colored, remove the base, and it's a broken statue in an ancient ruin.
And what are the problems with resin? Resin costs too much. Alchohol baths, gloves, and masks nickle and dime you over time. Failed prints too often result in a lump of goo that can't be repurposed or salvaged. Toxic fumes. Size limits. Extra steps in an already time consuming process. I don't think resin is the solution for any of my needs.
Well written! Resin printers are super magical to me, as there is almost no visible artifacts from the layers with the naked eye. Maybe the post processing will be sorted out in the coming years.
my fdm printer has been gathering dust only because it's one of the old Printrbot Simple Maker's Kit Model 1405 and the plywood is beyond warped so there's no using it for any prints other than simple things
Your video definitely inspired me to get a fdm printer for larger terrain pieces and whatnot. I have been eyeballing this viper and the kobra 2. Do you have any tips on what features to look for when on the market for one of these bad boys?
I can't get the top layers to look like that, they are actually the worst, Are you using Ironing? Or do you have the slicer settings for the Vyper for share somewhere?
I want to use them to cast in metal with sand moulds, so these machines have opened up an entire new avenue for examination.
Resin are *too* detailed for what I need tbh, and I'm just glad to have this option
Very nice video, where's that baneblade proxy from? Loving that class battle tank.
I'm definitely getting one
Really cool tanks shown here. Makes me excited to grab a printer. Tbh I think ill be grabbing both styles of printer when I can afford it, it's so exciting trying to print them aswell as paint them. I feel like a kid again haha xD
How do you know what pieces you need to print is there something u look at or what? I’m looking into getting one
Fdm for engineering parts and rapid iteration.
Nice. Got myself a Creality 3 Pro and love it. It’s Great for printing Ork stuff.
I see it in two ways. FDM can achieve fine details but is better for medium to large scale builds, hence why many higher end FDM have very large build volumes. SLA on the other hand is great for Small to medium builds of high resolution, but small build volumes in general. NOW this rule isn't always true there are outliers and variables of the two, including materials, production of specific parts and their own requirements to manufacture.. etc etc.
For model making in general I use FDM for large pieces, landscape, etc. SLA for small fine details, like single figures, people, miniature weapons, etc.
Yeah I've been leaning towards that rule of thumb as well. The crazy detail from sla printers is reserved for when its actually necessary
Actually I'm still on a FDM printer and just recently started printing mini's (now reading into how to paint them for DnD). I will be looking for a resin printer to print the miniatures later on when im more proficient in painting. And use the FDM printer for terrain/tiles
No one who knows anything about 3d printing thinks FDM printers are irrelevant. From a tabletop standpoint terrain or large models (like your tank) are definitely better on FDM and it isn't just because of print size or costs. Certain things do not print well in resin.... period. Specifically large things are very prone to warping, print failure, etc etc. Ironically resin printers also suck at printing things that need to be just plain flat, you have to do a lot of orienting and supports.... A LOT. Resin is simply better though at smaller more complex objects like mini's or sculptures, rings or other jewelry pieces, etc.
I think it is not just not knowing enough, but ppl have need to confirm the purchase. In a way "I SPENT MONEY ON THAT AND THEREFORE IT IS BETTER THAN YOUR CHEAPER THING, YOURS IS WORSE MINE IS BETTER". And since sla are more expensive, there are more ppl in need of confirmation.
ooo nice! i just purchased a vyper. ill have to look at your settings in prusa, as im not impressed by cura so far. and maybe go after the filament you are using. i have a photon s as well, but actually prefer the vyper for larger stuff (for obvious reasons). thanks for the helpful video!
Just used stock settings, to get good prints just make sure you tighten all belts and gantries, slow the speed slightly and don't use damp filament.
Resin printing is cool....I have printed some amazing things....but I will ALWAYS print on my FDM printers....they are workhorses and cheap and I can print at .03-.05 not on my CR-10's after my upgrades.....Love them.
I don't have anything against fdm, but mine has been relegated to basic shapes, terrain and bases which it does fine, esp with the occasional bit of resin "wash" and cure to hide lines. Detail wise there is no comparison though, fdm I'm struggling for .2 on detail with a large amount of mechanical tinkering and part replacement, resin I'm printing at .035 with a simple dial in, just for cost efficiency i do try to make use of both, but considering how long fdm has been a thing vs sla i dont expect it to ever compete for actual minis, but will hold its value for terrain and large projects for a while.
Ok Damn! That Baneblade was done with FDM? Holy Moly...
I have the Creality CR6-SE and is one of my loves.
Great review! Thanks. I’ve been watching for awhile but haven’t made the plunge yet! Good news is that it’s not really a vhs or beta potential for a ‘wrong’ choice. The apparent ease of SLA/cleanup makes me lean in that direction for sure. Thanks again! 🙂🥦🦖
Knarb! You and I are seemingly working on the exact same projects... 1) Dune minis 2) illuminated 40k terrain 3) FDM vehicles. I’m new to 3d printing and your tip on orientation is perfect! Im using a CR-10 V3.
Haha that's awesome! Bound to happen with someone at this rate.
Please check out Submersible LED pool light on Amazon. They have a controller and are very robust for multi colored lights. Little pucks are easily tucked under gantries With magnets
@@House-Atreides will do! Thanks
Great video!
Thanks!
In mini's yes, but tha'ts cause SLS is tuned for smaller and finer worker. Where FDM is better suited for larger items.
There's no need to fight between FDM and SLA printers. They both print the same files, it's really down to personal taste. The real argument is not supporting anti-consumer practices some miniatures companies pull
Facing the most visible are upwars is a terrible idea, I do the exact opposite. The Z resolution can go down to 0.08mm with a 0.4mm nozzle, however the XY resolution is larger than nozzle diameter so about 0.42mm. You get 5x better resolution vertically than horozontally.
Ty sir.
And just like that he designed a tank :D. Mad genius this man.
Designing a tank isn't particularly difficult. With about an afternoon's tutelage, you could probably make a decent looking tank in about an afternoon. They're basically just a box. The skill is in making it look cool. :)
I think the real potential of both formats aren't able to be fully realized until you have both available to you at the same time. My DIY projects have taken a crazy turn since I got a resin printer to pair with my Ender 3.
Well said. Ive noticed a similar trend for my crafts as well.
I've been thinking of getting a 3D printer, this is really making me want one
I've had an Ender 3 Pro for about a year, and other than having to relevel it every few months, it's been a solid machine. That relevelling though...its enough to make me intrigued by the Vyper if that self-levelling feature works and continues to work over time. The orientation of the parts is a fantastic idea, if you can do it produces a very smooth finish. I have become adept at post-processing for those prints that cant be done that way....primer/filler, Mod Podge, wood putty, sanding...they are all close friends now ;-) Those tanks are awesome btw. Cheers!
Yep, some sanding and filler goes a long way! Sometimes layer lines can't be avoided.
I have 2 FDM and 1 Resin. I gotta say I use my FDM printers like 10x more than my resin printer. Resin is cool and all, and for miniatures it's brilliant, but for mechanical design, the tolerances, brittleness, odor, and post processing are unbearable. My Resin printer is essentially only a specialty printer at this point.
That is a true but can get just as good minatures from my FDM.
What is FDM? Is that just a regular 3D printer? I use mine mostly for making gun parts, can you use a resin printer to make mag bodies, lowers, carbine conversion kits, etc?
I fly fpv and use my printer mainly for TPU or carbon composite filaments and from time to time I print out big ass flower pots out of ABS. Not sure how much of a help an SLA printer would be over my sovol sv03 with its big build size and filament choices.