Good one but if you removed 2 gallons from the radiator and a gallon from the engine block you will need 3 gallons of coolant. Those coolant funnels are great, they make the whole process much easier especially “ burping “ the air out of the system. Your most important point is to monitor the coolant level especially after driving the vehicle a few hours. I checked mine after 5he dealership did one of my vehicles and the coolant was down about 1/3 of a jug. The coolant level when the engine is cold should be a little above halfway between the minimum and maximum mark or just below the max mark if the engine has been run for 15+ minutes.
Two gallons of coolant will be enough to replace the combined amount you drain from the radiator and engine block, though I don't remember the exact amount. Do monitor coolant level and top it off if it goes low in the next few days.
You are welcome! No I didn't. I was happy with the amount I got from the radiator and didn't want to fight the space to get the extra half gallon out. After all, you will only be able to replace 2/3 of the entire coolant capacity. I'll likely drain the engine block for the next service in 50k miles when I can find the time and patience; but I'm not concerned at all with that small amount remaining in the engine block.
Only if this replacement is long overdue. For a Toyota or Lexus, the coolant is "super long life" and, unless it's contaminated, can last a long time (10+ years). Regular replacement like this will be sufficient but it doesn't hurt to flush it and get 100% new coolant in it. I wouldn't use any chemical; distilled/pure water is what I'd use to cycle sediment/contaminants out. In the end, make sure you have the correct 50/50 mix remaining in the system.
I seen some other RUclipsrs with engine 2gr-fe they open some bleeding valve until to see the coolant comes out Does this engine have any kind valve like that or this is the safe way to do it . Thanks
@@klejdijaupaj5970 Great question! And that's correct on the previous generation 2GR-FE. When there is such a valve on the engine, you need to release air from there otherwise air can get trapped and engine can overheat. On 2GR-FKS (newer engine in the video), however, there is no bleeder valve.
can I just drain the fluid in the front only? i know I don't drain the whole thing but if i do this more often is it still better than doing nothing? thx
Yes, and this is what I prefer without a lift. It's quite a challenge to drain the engine block when you have to crawl under the car and it's only a small amount trapped there. And 100% you can do it more often.
I'd be happy to when I have a chance to work on one! That said, with the same engine, the process will be similar. Underbody cover/shields will be different and, if it's a front-wheel drive, the engine block drain should be easier to access without AWD drivetrain components in the way.
BTW. I reviewed one of your videos on a 2019 Sienna, where you can see the radiator petcock 4 seconds into the video: ruclips.net/video/46idJcySwKs/видео.htmlsi=s4XRFMc1WwU3GB4Z&t=4
Planning to do this on 2018 highlander 2GR-FKS engine 114k miles with factory filled coolant. i didn't see you turning heater in cabin ? is it necessary to turn onn heater when bleeding air pockets from system ?
Good one but if you removed 2 gallons from the radiator and a gallon from the engine block you will need 3 gallons of coolant. Those coolant funnels are great, they make the whole process much easier especially “ burping “ the air out of the system. Your most important point is to monitor the coolant level especially after driving the vehicle a few hours. I checked mine after 5he dealership did one of my vehicles and the coolant was down about 1/3 of a jug. The coolant level when the engine is cold should be a little above halfway between the minimum and maximum mark or just below the max mark if the engine has been run for 15+ minutes.
Two gallons of coolant will be enough to replace the combined amount you drain from the radiator and engine block, though I don't remember the exact amount. Do monitor coolant level and top it off if it goes low in the next few days.
Thank you for the video. Did you drain the engine block, or just show the port for information? Other youtubers have suggested it isnt really needed.
You are welcome! No I didn't. I was happy with the amount I got from the radiator and didn't want to fight the space to get the extra half gallon out. After all, you will only be able to replace 2/3 of the entire coolant capacity. I'll likely drain the engine block for the next service in 50k miles when I can find the time and patience; but I'm not concerned at all with that small amount remaining in the engine block.
You should have had the heater turned on to circulate the coolant.
Yes, sir! I did with engine running but it wasn't captured in the video/footage.
I suppose a 3GRFSE is similar i might need to do my GS300 soon
Yes, it's a similar design. The same procedure.
Did you consider doing a flush with distilled water and chemical first? I've heard you can remove some sediment around the water pump that way
Only if this replacement is long overdue. For a Toyota or Lexus, the coolant is "super long life" and, unless it's contaminated, can last a long time (10+ years). Regular replacement like this will be sufficient but it doesn't hurt to flush it and get 100% new coolant in it. I wouldn't use any chemical; distilled/pure water is what I'd use to cycle sediment/contaminants out. In the end, make sure you have the correct 50/50 mix remaining in the system.
I seen some other RUclipsrs with engine 2gr-fe they open some bleeding valve until to see the coolant comes out Does this engine have any kind valve like that or this is the safe way to do it . Thanks
@@klejdijaupaj5970 Great question! And that's correct on the previous generation 2GR-FE. When there is such a valve on the engine, you need to release air from there otherwise air can get trapped and engine can overheat. On 2GR-FKS (newer engine in the video), however, there is no bleeder valve.
can I just drain the fluid in the front only? i know I don't drain the whole thing but if i do this more often is it still better than doing nothing? thx
Yes, and this is what I prefer without a lift. It's quite a challenge to drain the engine block when you have to crawl under the car and it's only a small amount trapped there. And 100% you can do it more often.
Can you make a video for the 2017-2020 sienna (also 2gr-fks) video? Thanks :)
I'd be happy to when I have a chance to work on one! That said, with the same engine, the process will be similar. Underbody cover/shields will be different and, if it's a front-wheel drive, the engine block drain should be easier to access without AWD drivetrain components in the way.
BTW. I reviewed one of your videos on a 2019 Sienna, where you can see the radiator petcock 4 seconds into the video:
ruclips.net/video/46idJcySwKs/видео.htmlsi=s4XRFMc1WwU3GB4Z&t=4
Planning to do this on 2018 highlander 2GR-FKS engine 114k miles with factory filled coolant. i didn't see you turning heater in cabin ? is it necessary to turn onn heater when bleeding air pockets from system ?
Good catch! Yes, turn on HEAT to help circulate coolant.