If you put some insulation around the pot and having it cool off very slowly, I think the best would be to attach some steelwire to a rod that can be suspended above the bowl, having the other end with a tiny bit of bismuth a couple inches down into the molten bismuth could give you a large piece. I will try this myself once I get my bismuth.
I just tried this method but using a regular electric stove. I melt it down then I gradually turn the heat down with a timer(still experimenting) and I got some very beautiful pieces this way. You can just pull the wire out and I can definitely see the potential in growing on a stem/wire. The more bismuth you got in in a large bowl, the bigger crystals. The wire should only be submerged like an 1/8" under the surface though.
IAA015 this is the way. These poor people pouring molten metal all over the place when it’s so much easier with wire. I came up with it independently from this comment and have had nonstop success doing it. Have you never made a video tutorial of it? I’ve never seen it anywhere on the Internet before except right here in your comment. I don’t insulate or slowly turn off heat and definitely don’t pour. I work with about 10 pounds at a time and just wait about 10 minutes for the cool down. I’m still wrestling with whether or not I should make a video of how to do it this way....
@@chucksaduck I tried the wire method after seeing someone comment on another video about using wire (maybe you. But, am just getting globs on the wire and absolutely no crystals although crystals form in other parts of the pot. What kind of wire are you using? I’m using copper. Thanks.
Great video and awesome crystals! I didn't look up any proper ways to make crystals when I started so I was doing A LOT of things wrong at first, but through trial and error I found that cooling the entire crucible with water or ice (I set mine in the snow since we have it) for just a few seconds, then taking it out and letting it cool at a natural rate and then also rotating the whole crucible periodically helped create larger crystals (I think they grow more on the side that it's tilted away from). I also scoop the impurities out a few times while it cools, I'm not sure if this helps too much, but I noticed they continue to rise to the top the whole time it is in a liquid state, of course less appear after each successive scoop.
At some point, the "impurities" is Oxidized Busmith, meaning it reacts to the oxygen in the air (which also gives it its color), but scooping it away all the time wont help much, as the now revealed Bismuth will again react with the air, so you are just scooping out more and more for no reason
These are BY FAR the best homemade crystals I have seen on RUclips. I am about to try it out for myself. Any tips on how to tell when it has cooled enough to pour the excess out of the crystallizing pots? Also, thanks for the safety tip! (F*ck that's hot!) hahaha.
Ompapamowmow Thanks!! :) The best way to tell is trial and error using the same volume and surface area. For the amount I am using (8-10lbs.) a cooling time of 10-14 minutes is ok. A longer cool time will increase the chances of really big crystals, but only if the entire volume is cooling at a relatively constant rate. Normally I wait as long as possible before I disturb it for the first time. Then you can use the jiggle method to test how much has solidified. Don't shake it too much though! :) If it hasn't cooled enough let it sit and don't touch it for a few more minutes. Good luck! If you get great results, let me know what you did! :)
It's all about timing, and trial and error. Whatever you do, PLEASE be safe! A face shield, gloves, and ABSOLUTE control are requirements for working with molten metal! As far as further information goes, the methods are closely guarded secrets😉. The only reason I can now make beautiful crystals is because a friend has been gracious enough to share his wisdom. Keep your karma clean, and your intentions pure, and I bet that you, too, will be shown the way.
Those look great. I'm having trouble getting crystals from a small ss measuring cup. I might need to go up a hair bigger. I have not been using a second container for cooling though. Just letting it cool in the container I heat it up in. Trying to perfect the process haha
A larger container does allow more space for the crystals to form. You want a good ratio of width and depth. They should be roughly 1:1. Also a second container for crystallizing made a big difference for me. You can still get crystals without using a second container, but it really helps! Thanks for watching!
You can always try! You won't get much out of it. You will find the bismuth you remelt from the slag will be full of impurities. Impure bismuth = no crystals and no rainbow color! Keep the impure stuff from contaminating your pure bismuth!
Man, your results are great, the best I've seen on youtube and I want to do it myself (i make jewels and i'd like to use bismuth crystals). I have a couple of questions: I'm having troubles trying to find crystalising pots similar to yours, have you got sone suggestions on where can I find them? (And could you tell me the crystalising pots mesures?) Thanks
Francesco Nobili Sure! I bought these at Bed Bath & Beyond. But any kitchen/bath/home store should have a selection. Even Target and Walmart have stainless containers. But you have to look where you wouldn't expect them. These crystallizing pots are just toothbrush holders. I have also used a champagne tub, and some smaller stainless measuring cups. I am not sure the volume, maybe a cup and a half? LOL! Stick to cheap stainless steel because they will take some abuse. I am the best at this yet. I have been prying the guy over at Element83 on Etsy, trying get his secrets. He makes amazing bismuth crystals and sculptures. I don't think he wants to give up the trade secrets. :)
@@NateSchoonoversAdventures hope this comment is still relevant to your channel since it’s been a few years.... it is still one of the best tutorials out there in 2020. A couple suggestions on where to get those containers. Martini shakers come in about that size and can be found cheap. Also at glass fusing suppliers they carry stainless steel forms for doing what is called draping or slumping glass. That’s what I’ve been using since I had them from my glass work. Have fun everyone making crystals and as my husband wishes me when I go to do glass flameworking: NO BURNS!
The colors are more or less random. It depends on the thickness, or perhaps some other property, of the oxide layer that forms on top of the pure bismuth metal. It's the same effect that stainless steel has when you heat it. Very hard to control the color formation, but with practice it may be doable.
you can make large ones by pouring it in to a small ceramic bowl and leave for a little while and get it out then you get an egg shape and big crystals in the middle
Are there not stainless steel containers with handles that could be used. On most of these videos people use two heavily insulated pot holders but it looks awkward and dangerous. Is there a reason to stay away from handles (other than cost)?
I just got some cheap ones. But I guess you could use a larger pot with a handle. I heated up the entire container so the handle would have to be metal and it still might get hot.
Just a tip but when scraping the impurities of wait until you start cooling it because it will just keep forming but when you are cooling it it won't form 👍
Thanks, +Megan Franklin! That is a great idea. It makes sense since the oxides will continue to form as long as the bismuth is above its melting temperature. Spring is coming to the Northeast. Soon I will get out and grow some more crystals. :)
+TheTechyest I get my bismuth from Rotometals.com. After I bought a few pounds I started getting emails about all kinds of deals and sales. I think I was getting it for about $15 a pound (2014).
Amazing video! Question: You emphasize that you must remove all the slag, but from my experience the layer of slag keeps forming no matter how many times you take it out. Is the layer supposed to stop forming at some point (after a certain amount of slag is removed) and I simply haven't reached it yet? Thanks in advance :)
Nate I've been playing with bismuth for several days. If you do one good skimming you'll be fine. I believe after that it's just the bismuth starting to solidify at the top. This stuff is mad fun to play with. Working on a diamagnetic levitator with my boys now using bismuth and neodymium magnets. Nighthawk in light has a great video on that
The slag will constantly form on the top, yea, so you could keep removing forever. But you want to remove as much of the slag as you can right before you pour it into the final crystallizing container. That way the slag doesn't get mixed in and disrupt the crystal forming process. Just skim the surface once or twice right before the pour and you should be fine. :)
Of course! You can melt it down almost indefinitely. However, each time you melt you introduce more impurities and oxides. Over many successive melts this could lower the purity of the bismuth. Lower purity means duller colors during the oxide formations, and smaller, less well-defined crystals. I would love to learn how to purify some of my contaminated bismuth. I think the purification process is impractical for the home hobbyist.
Still a very relevant video! I wish you'd go a bit into how pure your bismuth is and how you can tell. I suspect you can get crystals to form even with quite contaminated bismuth but the color and sheen appears to be poor.
Thank you! I have to rely on the supplier. I can’t measure purity myself. But I can tell when the metal gets too contaminated. The rainbow turns to grey and the shape is not as sharp. I also don’t have a way to purify the metal once it has been contaminated. Love to hear any suggestions!
@@NateSchoonoversAdventures I basically got what I am sure is not great Bismuth. When I grew my first crystals I managed to make em ok sized, but they were covered in a gray sheen. I molded a plug that would be easy for me to measure volume of using my precision scales (0.001g resolution, 0.002g repeatability). (I basically used the displacement method by weight as it allows me to use the scales for both the mass and the displacement.) First I weigh the sample by just placing it on my scales. Then I place a cup with water on the scales and place a harness inside hanging from a bookshelf and zero out. Then I place the sample in the harness. Now the weight of the sample is supported by harness but it displaces it's volume of water in the cup. I can now read the volume on the scale. Result is quite accurate and there is no room for interpretation of levels and lines. I discovered that my initial metal had a density of 9.87 which is too high. Assuming it is only Bismuth and Lead this equates to 92% Bismuth, 8% Lead. I then melted it and tried using the Chlorine methods and alkaline methods to purify it. Chlorine method means using chlorine for pools, which creates som e now unsolvable floating slag. The Alkaline method is simply using Sodium Hydroxide on it while molten to again absorb some of the contaminants. It also cleans off oxidation in a very interesting way eating it as it is formed. Fun to watch. (Use protective glasses!) After this process I measured my metal again and it was noticably more shiney and resulting density was 9.816 which equates to potentially 95.5% Bismuth, 4.5% Lead. Better but not great. It does however look like the method is working and the chemistry is sound as it is based of old patents for cleaning up Bismuth.
@@NateSchoonoversAdventures Interesting! Which release agent? Just wondering about the chemistry. A lot of metallics can be removed from Bismuth with different additions as many form substances with high melting points that float to the top and can be "slagged off". As long as one can add a surplus to not end up adding any carries to the Bismuth. This is my worry with NaOH for example, but it appears the Na has a much higher reactivity than Bismuth.
I have watched a dozens or more of these....your is by far the best and most comprehensive....thank you for the timer use as well...AWESOME !!!
darodg43 thank you!
Best bismuth crystal video on youtube. Thanks
"Be Gentle!" *SLAMS CUP ON TABLE* .....lol
Best video I've seen on growing bismuth crystals!Thanks a lot!
Very impressed by your technique. I've been trying several methods, and this video helped a bunch! Thank you!
Great! I am happy it helped. Have you made anything cool?
@@NateSchoonoversAdventures I have! If you wish to see a few of my crystals, please visit my page on Instagram (d.i.y._dan)
Dang that Bismuth is magical!!!
wow...I am amazed at how this is done....would like to make one as a fascination crystal...so eye catching, Thanks
If you put some insulation around the pot and having it cool off very slowly, I think the best would be to attach some steelwire to a rod that can be suspended above the bowl, having the other end with a tiny bit of bismuth a couple inches down into the molten bismuth could give you a large piece. I will try this myself once I get my bismuth.
I just tried this method but using a regular electric stove. I melt it down then I gradually turn the heat down with a timer(still experimenting) and I got some very beautiful pieces this way. You can just pull the wire out and I can definitely see the potential in growing on a stem/wire. The more bismuth you got in in a large bowl, the bigger crystals. The wire should only be submerged like an 1/8" under the surface though.
IAA015 this is the way. These poor people pouring molten metal all over the place when it’s so much easier with wire. I came up with it independently from this comment and have had nonstop success doing it. Have you never made a video tutorial of it? I’ve never seen it anywhere on the Internet before except right here in your comment. I don’t insulate or slowly turn off heat and definitely don’t pour. I work with about 10 pounds at a time and just wait about 10 minutes for the cool down. I’m still wrestling with whether or not I should make a video of how to do it this way....
@@chucksaduck I tried the wire method after seeing someone comment on another video about using wire (maybe you. But, am just getting globs on the wire and absolutely no crystals although crystals form in other parts of the pot. What kind of wire are you using? I’m using copper. Thanks.
That's a really good video! You should make more
Thanks! I will!
Great video and awesome crystals! I didn't look up any proper ways to make crystals when I started so I was doing A LOT of things wrong at first, but through trial and error I found that cooling the entire crucible with water or ice (I set mine in the snow since we have it) for just a few seconds, then taking it out and letting it cool at a natural rate and then also rotating the whole crucible periodically helped create larger crystals (I think they grow more on the side that it's tilted away from). I also scoop the impurities out a few times while it cools, I'm not sure if this helps too much, but I noticed they continue to rise to the top the whole time it is in a liquid state, of course less appear after each successive scoop.
At some point, the "impurities" is Oxidized Busmith, meaning it reacts to the oxygen in the air (which also gives it its color), but scooping it away all the time wont help much, as the now revealed Bismuth will again react with the air, so you are just scooping out more and more for no reason
Damn! He got some great formations!
These are BY FAR the best homemade crystals I have seen on RUclips. I am about to try it out for myself. Any tips on how to tell when it has cooled enough to pour the excess out of the crystallizing pots? Also, thanks for the safety tip! (F*ck that's hot!) hahaha.
Ompapamowmow Thanks!! :) The best way to tell is trial and error using the same volume and surface area. For the amount I am using (8-10lbs.) a cooling time of 10-14 minutes is ok. A longer cool time will increase the chances of really big crystals, but only if the entire volume is cooling at a relatively constant rate. Normally I wait as long as possible before I disturb it for the first time. Then you can use the jiggle method to test how much has solidified. Don't shake it too much though! :) If it hasn't cooled enough let it sit and don't touch it for a few more minutes.
Good luck! If you get great results, let me know what you did! :)
Ompapamowmow let it cool slowly for better results
It's all about timing, and trial and error. Whatever you do, PLEASE be safe! A face shield, gloves, and ABSOLUTE control are requirements for working with molten metal! As far as further information goes, the methods are closely guarded secrets😉. The only reason I can now make beautiful crystals is because a friend has been gracious enough to share his wisdom. Keep your karma clean, and your intentions pure, and I bet that you, too, will be shown the way.
said grow i literaly thought it would grow😂 nice vid i loved the subtitles
if we can see inside the liquid bismuth then we'll see the crystallized piece growing, i think.
Great thanks for the video. Can you tell me if you can cut sections out of the crystals with a dremel tool or simialr when finshed?
@3:31 "Let it cool. Do not disturb it." Clang!
Those look great. I'm having trouble getting crystals from a small ss measuring cup. I might need to go up a hair bigger. I have not been using a second container for cooling though. Just letting it cool in the container I heat it up in. Trying to perfect the process haha
A larger container does allow more space for the crystals to form. You want a good ratio of width and depth. They should be roughly 1:1. Also a second container for crystallizing made a big difference for me. You can still get crystals without using a second container, but it really helps! Thanks for watching!
i have4 not done this yet so sorry if this is dumb but is there anything you can do to make it easier to remove from the cups?
Great video! We should throw away all of the floating impurities and we can't remelt and reuse them, right?
You can always try! You won't get much out of it. You will find the bismuth you remelt from the slag will be full of impurities. Impure bismuth = no crystals and no rainbow color! Keep the impure stuff from contaminating your pure bismuth!
Good video! Thanks!
Man, your results are great, the best I've seen on youtube and I want to do it myself (i make jewels and i'd like to use bismuth crystals).
I have a couple of questions:
I'm having troubles trying to find crystalising pots similar to yours, have you got sone suggestions on where can I find them? (And could you tell me the crystalising pots mesures?)
Thanks
Francesco Nobili Sure! I bought these at Bed Bath & Beyond. But any kitchen/bath/home store should have a selection. Even Target and Walmart have stainless containers. But you have to look where you wouldn't expect them. These crystallizing pots are just toothbrush holders. I have also used a champagne tub, and some smaller stainless measuring cups. I am not sure the volume, maybe a cup and a half? LOL! Stick to cheap stainless steel because they will take some abuse. I am the best at this yet. I have been prying the guy over at Element83 on Etsy, trying get his secrets. He makes amazing bismuth crystals and sculptures. I don't think he wants to give up the trade secrets. :)
Nate Schoonover Thanks a lot ! ;)
@@NateSchoonoversAdventures hope this comment is still relevant to your channel since it’s been a few years.... it is still one of the best tutorials out there in 2020. A couple suggestions on where to get those containers. Martini shakers come in about that size and can be found cheap. Also at glass fusing suppliers they carry stainless steel forms for doing what is called draping or slumping glass. That’s what I’ve been using since I had them from my glass work. Have fun everyone making crystals and as my husband wishes me when I go to do glass flameworking: NO BURNS!
Totally awesome!!! What is the amount of bismuth you melted on this video?
+Alberto Para This was about 8 pounds. Thank you!
use preheated ceramic cups.
what determines the final color? It seems so random.
The colors are more or less random. It depends on the thickness, or perhaps some other property, of the oxide layer that forms on top of the pure bismuth metal. It's the same effect that stainless steel has when you heat it. Very hard to control the color formation, but with practice it may be doable.
you can make large ones by pouring it in to a small ceramic bowl and leave for a little while and get it out then you get an egg shape and big crystals in the middle
Are there not stainless steel containers with handles that could be used. On most of these videos people use two heavily insulated pot holders but it looks awkward and dangerous. Is there a reason to stay away from handles (other than cost)?
I just got some cheap ones. But I guess you could use a larger pot with a handle. I heated up the entire container so the handle would have to be metal and it still might get hot.
Those are not only impurities on the top. It's mostly bismuth oxide.
Just a tip but when scraping the impurities of wait until you start cooling it because it will just keep forming but when you are cooling it it won't form 👍
Thanks, +Megan Franklin! That is a great idea. It makes sense since the oxides will continue to form as long as the bismuth is above its melting temperature. Spring is coming to the Northeast. Soon I will get out and grow some more crystals. :)
+Nate Schoonover no problem just something I learned while making mine. Great video by the way :)
how much do you sale them for
I don't sell them. How much would you pay?
May I ask where you got the bismuth? It seemed to be a lot and I'd like to know if you have a cheap source >:)
+TheTechyest I get my bismuth from Rotometals.com. After I bought a few pounds I started getting emails about all kinds of deals and sales. I think I was getting it for about $15 a pound (2014).
Does the lustre last or does it need a coating
The oxidized coating lasts quite well. It doesn't rub off, and you don't need to seal it with anything.
Amazing video!
Question: You emphasize that you must remove all the slag, but from my experience the layer of slag keeps forming no matter how many times you take it out. Is the layer supposed to stop forming at some point (after a certain amount of slag is removed) and I simply haven't reached it yet?
Thanks in advance :)
Nate I've been playing with bismuth for several days. If you do one good skimming you'll be fine. I believe after that it's just the bismuth starting to solidify at the top. This stuff is mad fun to play with. Working on a diamagnetic levitator with my boys now using bismuth and neodymium magnets. Nighthawk in light has a great video on that
The slag will constantly form on the top, yea, so you could keep removing forever. But you want to remove as much of the slag as you can right before you pour it into the final crystallizing container. That way the slag doesn't get mixed in and disrupt the crystal forming process. Just skim the surface once or twice right before the pour and you should be fine. :)
thanks for the video man. do you know if you can melt it down again if it doesn't turn out or do you only get one shot. id love to know! thanks:)
Of course! You can melt it down almost indefinitely. However, each time you melt you introduce more impurities and oxides. Over many successive melts this could lower the purity of the bismuth. Lower purity means duller colors during the oxide formations, and smaller, less well-defined crystals. I would love to learn how to purify some of my contaminated bismuth. I think the purification process is impractical for the home hobbyist.
Does the stainless steel vessel have to be thick?
No, these vessels are double walled, not very thick. Really any solid metal container will work.
@@NateSchoonoversAdventures thanks
Tried doing this at home. It came to life and insisted that it builds Towers and Spires for me. Did I do it wrong?
Perfect!
i tried to make one and it tried shattering me mistaking me for my mom
Isn't there a flux you can use to get rid of the impurities?
If there is a flux I don't know about it. Anyone else know?
Where can I get bismuth and what's the approx cost?
I got mine at rotometals online. for about $15 a pound.
I just bought some bismuth to do this and I read online that the fumes from the bismuth are toxic. Is this true?
Anytime you deal with molten metals there will be dangerous fumes to contend with. Work outside and don't huff the smoke. You should be fine.
alright. thank you
Still a very relevant video!
I wish you'd go a bit into how pure your bismuth is and how you can tell.
I suspect you can get crystals to form even with quite contaminated bismuth but the color and sheen appears to be poor.
Thank you! I have to rely on the supplier. I can’t measure purity myself. But I can tell when the metal gets too contaminated. The rainbow turns to grey and the shape is not as sharp. I also don’t have a way to purify the metal once it has been contaminated. Love to hear any suggestions!
@@NateSchoonoversAdventures I basically got what I am sure is not great Bismuth.
When I grew my first crystals I managed to make em ok sized, but they were covered in a gray sheen.
I molded a plug that would be easy for me to measure volume of using my precision scales (0.001g resolution, 0.002g repeatability).
(I basically used the displacement method by weight as it allows me to use the scales for both the mass and the displacement.)
First I weigh the sample by just placing it on my scales. Then I place a cup with water on the scales and place a harness inside hanging from a bookshelf and zero out. Then I place the sample in the harness. Now the weight of the sample is supported by harness but it displaces it's volume of water in the cup. I can now read the volume on the scale. Result is quite accurate and there is no room for interpretation of levels and lines. I discovered that my initial metal had a density of 9.87 which is too high. Assuming it is only Bismuth and Lead this equates to 92% Bismuth, 8% Lead. I then melted it and tried using the Chlorine methods and alkaline methods to purify it. Chlorine method means using chlorine for pools, which creates som e now unsolvable floating slag. The Alkaline method is simply using Sodium Hydroxide on it while molten to again absorb some of the contaminants. It also cleans off oxidation in a very interesting way eating it as it is formed. Fun to watch. (Use protective glasses!)
After this process I measured my metal again and it was noticably more shiney and resulting density was 9.816 which equates to potentially 95.5% Bismuth, 4.5% Lead.
Better but not great. It does however look like the method is working and the chemistry is sound as it is based of old patents for cleaning up Bismuth.
@@1kreature I’ll certainly try that method. I contaminated a batch of mine with mold release.
@@NateSchoonoversAdventures Interesting! Which release agent? Just wondering about the chemistry. A lot of metallics can be removed from Bismuth with different additions as many form substances with high melting points that float to the top and can be "slagged off". As long as one can add a surplus to not end up adding any carries to the Bismuth.
This is my worry with NaOH for example, but it appears the Na has a much higher reactivity than Bismuth.
@@1kreature It was a spray on bullet mold release. I think it was lead based.
I wonder why bismuth crystalizes in that tiered-square shape
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hopper_crystal
+Nate Schoonover thanks!
it grew from the seed bismuth
i thought this video was about a plant who grew bismuth
+CairoTanGT Dude... so fucking cool! I really hope somewhere in this universe that is a real thing. Can you imagine?? metal freaking plants!
+Anthony Pilcher lol ikr
They’re so cool I Love your videos please make more of these videos crystals are so cool
I like crystals