I have watched a few of these vids. They are great for me. I did many of these routes about 50 years ago. I dont remember much about this one except that it was strenuous and I think graded HVS at the time.
Glad you are enjoying the videos :) Amazing how the rock might change a little bit but it mostly stays the same, allowing generations of climbers to come and experience it.
Glad you are enjoying the videos :) Amazing how the rock might change a little bit but it mostly stays the same, allowing generations of climbers to come and experience it.
Nice Climbing :) It gave me a bit of anxiety seeing some of those cam placements, though. Cams on limestone need to be in a constriction. Parallel or bottomless cracks are asking for trouble. You can see why at 10.17. The way that no.4 just slid while it was cammed! I once weighted a good-looking cam placement on limestone. It held me for about a minute and then just slid right out of the placement and I decked. Luckily I was only about 3 metres up so I got away with it. Anyway, thanks for the videos!
I enjoy your vids very much Kuba but your almost total reliance on cams really surprises me. So many bomber nut placements are passed in favour of some pretty sketchy cam placements on this route in particular. Stay safe bro ; )
@@KubaClimbsRocks Defo not being a climbing dick here Kuba. A ballsy lead. The only (polished) Limestone I've climbed was Pembroke and I found it really sketchy. I'm a Highland based climber so Sandstone, Granite and Gabbro are my main materials - and as it's Scotland polish isn't really a thing here other than some of the easy classics. So kudos for this and all your other videos. I really enjoy watching them from the climbers POV as you ferret around the rack, talk to yourself and occasionally hyperventilate going for those crux moves. A few bigger wires wouldn't hurt - especially as you seem to like a crack. In fact, small hexes (although they scream PUNTER) are soooooo reassuring once you swing one in. Stay safe and keep those uploads ; )
Enjoyed this climb, as always. Thanks for taking the time and effort to make these videos!
Thanks, I am happy that you enjoy them 🙂
I have watched a few of these vids. They are great for me. I did many of these routes about 50 years ago. I dont remember much about this one except that it was strenuous and I think graded HVS at the time.
Glad you are enjoying the videos :) Amazing how the rock might change a little bit but it mostly stays the same, allowing generations of climbers to come and experience it.
Glad you are enjoying the videos :) Amazing how the rock might change a little bit but it mostly stays the same, allowing generations of climbers to come and experience it.
Nice Climbing :) It gave me a bit of anxiety seeing some of those cam placements, though. Cams on limestone need to be in a constriction. Parallel or bottomless cracks are asking for trouble. You can see why at 10.17. The way that no.4 just slid while it was cammed! I once weighted a good-looking cam placement on limestone. It held me for about a minute and then just slid right out of the placement and I decked. Luckily I was only about 3 metres up so I got away with it. Anyway, thanks for the videos!
Cheers for your advice and wisdom, it's appreciated man, I always strive to get better!
I enjoy your vids very much Kuba but your almost total reliance on cams really surprises me. So many bomber nut placements are passed in favour of some pretty sketchy cam placements on this route in particular. Stay safe bro ; )
Especially on limestone where they don't work too well.
Thanks man! I gotta say I am guilty as charged, I've done all in all two routes on limestone so any advice is golden!
@@KubaClimbsRocks Defo not being a climbing dick here Kuba. A ballsy lead. The only (polished) Limestone I've climbed was Pembroke and I found it really sketchy. I'm a Highland based climber so Sandstone, Granite and Gabbro are my main materials - and as it's Scotland polish isn't really a thing here other than some of the easy classics. So kudos for this and all your other videos. I really enjoy watching them from the climbers POV as you ferret around the rack, talk to yourself and occasionally hyperventilate going for those crux moves. A few bigger wires wouldn't hurt - especially as you seem to like a crack. In fact, small hexes (although they scream PUNTER) are soooooo reassuring once you swing one in. Stay safe and keep those uploads ; )
@@KubaClimbsRocks
Medusa is a tough lead !
No worries man you are just looking out for a fellow climber!🙂I've also been to Pembroke twice, years ago, completely forgot about that..
good effort!
Thanks man!:)
Also, is it too much to ask the brits to at least put some anchors at the top of routes?
Haha not something to expect in the UK! 😀
Yes. It's asking too much. Trad is Trad. Build your own belay. Leave no trace. Other than some blood usually. And maybe a little chalk ; )
@@mauriceoconnell4063 trad is KING!
Nice looking climb! Any reason why you opted to abseil down over simply lowering?
The tree was far from the edge, it looked like it would have been a nightmare of a rope drag 🙂