For beginners: anything that has a manual available somewhere. For nerds: anything you can just sit and poke at for hours to learn. I learned on a 201k. But I'm also into mechanics. Being your own service center has its advantages.
I had a shop on ebay for 15 years selling dresses for vintage dolls I made them on a pre war Singer treadle it never jammed on tiny stitches it was brillaint machine paid £10 for it sold it for 100 euros after I moved abroad with it I have had many machines over last 56 years love Singer have 3
Wow I wish I could try all the machines that you have! I've only recently been interested in vintage sewing machines because of how beautiful they look. Thank you for sharing and preserving your knowledge on vintage machines ❤
A great informative walk through on sewing machines for beginners. There are funny alternatives that I have seen like the use of a stapler for hemming trousers or duct tape ;-)) Often I have used masking tape and then sewn over it rather than use pins. Most of my sewing was for covers outside in the garden, no fancy dress making skills, my background is blacksmithing, welding and sheet metal work; working with cloth is a bit easier for me. I learned to sew a fancy dress costume back in 1984 on a 222K and later in 1999 a Lidl Victoria machine to replace a zip on denim jeans. I still have the Victoria and it does need me to fiddle with it since the old oil and grease tends to make the moving parts a bit stiff. back in the day Singer suggested using a bit of kerosene to free up sluggish machines. You must not do that on a plastic machine, however silicon spray and a genital hair drier for heat will often help free up a modern machine. For a beginner on an old machine is starting to sew before lowering the foot ;-)) my modern machine bleeps and error if you try. Always practice sewing with a bit of kitchen paper then if you get a jamb it is easier to free up. Hands up if you have every run out of lower bobbin thread and carried on sewing a seam ;-)) Tip for beginners always practice sewing on things that do not matter to build experience. Trying to sew a project for the first time without experience is very disheartening.
I've lost count of the number of times my bobbin has run out and I've carried on sewing 😆 I can't do that on my Brother SE625. It beeps at you and stops working when there's about a yard or so of thread left on the bobbin... If I ignore it to use up that leftover thread... I get one or two stitches before it beeps and stops working again. The only way to carry on with the project is to change the bobbin. In some ways having a bobbin warning is a good thing... in others... it's just as annoying as running out mid seam! 😀
I have a wonderful new Brother that I use on light weight fabrics (it can't handle anything at all heavy- .7amp motor) but I also have a vintage Kenmore with a 1.2 amp motor that I use for everything else.
The old sewing machines that are over 100y old will only last another 100y longer if you oil them, then unless you drop them off a very tall building or leave them to rust in a damp garage. They will straight stich sew through thick material and that leaves fancy plastic machines to do all the fancy lightweight works and never need servicing. My wife uses a Brother FS40 and for any heavy work she uses a brown aluminium 201K (cost 25 uk pounds) next to it. My older Singer VS3 1891 can do button holes and zigzag and blind stitch + a lot more just a bit slower to setup the attachment and run than the FS40. Diagnosing sewing problems with an old boat anchor shuttle cast iron machine is quite easy, compared to modern machines. My oldest 1880 machine sews quite well considering it is a well worn WW8 just keep your fingers out of the moving parts the same tip applies to the modern Singer 306 and the 319 I did buy a Singer 631 and a 760 they both can do a chain stitch (remove the lower bobbin etc. ) and the 760 will speed baste one stitch every 2 inches yep it is funny to watch it do that. all the best to all vintage users
@@SimplyStitchy The speed basting in the 760; how it works is to disengage the needle bar while the dogs carry on feeding. my machine was clattering because of the wrong clearance in this disengage mechanism. I did find this link ruclips.net/video/i82An-Uv9zk/видео.html he explains it quite well, I have learned from him working on my 1950s machines I could make a video just for you ? if you need to see how the needle bar works and what I found. Funny basting reminds me of... every Christmas I take batches of 6 cards and sew them down the fold line just a few stitches top and bottom (without cutting the thread) of each card so can hang them on the wall vertically, a bit daft but it works.
That would be so cool! thank you! Although, why not upload it to RUclips so other Touch & Sew users can see it too? Love the Christmas cards idea... might have to give that a try. Beats balancing them on the telly 😀
What would you recommend for a vintage machine as well as a modern machine for someone new to sewing like myself? I am looking for something very simple. And most of my sewing needs will be canvas and denim. Thank you very much. I really enjoy your videos!
Canvas and denim... For vintage I'd go Singer 15. Handcrank or treadle will handle bulk better as there's no motor to wear out. If you go electric try to get a belt-driven motor rather than a potted one. Especially if you intend sewing denim and canvas 24/7, 365 days a year. It'll be easier to fix if it does go wrong. Vintage but slightly more modern - I'd be looking at an all-metal machine. Denim and canvas are heavy fabrics so you'll need a heavy machine to give you stability to work those materials. Avoid anything that bounces as you sew. You want rock solid. Maybe a Kenmore or an older Janome. Or how about the Singer 401? Something along those lines. You also want a decent sized motor. The more powerful the better. For up to date modern, simple to use but with room to build on your sewing skills - Janome HD3000 or the Brother PQ1500. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching 😀
I've sewn through 16 layers of cotton canvas on my Singer 27 treadle with a size 16 needle ... The stitches are still beautiful and with no hesitation at all.
@@SimplyStitchy I am sorry I don't have information on the thickness ... I got the cotton canvas fabric at Joanns in the home decor section. 16 layers laid flat, at one point I started sewing from 2 layers going into 4, to 8, to 16 in one single stitch and the transition was also very smooth ... No skip stitches, which I'd experienced a lot with my domestic transitioning to different thickness levels. I am excited to make an attempt at a tote bag with my antique.
Thank you for all the great information. I’m trying to take notes as I watch. What do you recommend for quilting? I have a newer Singer but when I piece blocks it’s difficult to sew over pieced material with bulky seams. I would love a vintage Singer but not sure which would work for piecing and quilting. I’m guessing a 99 or 201?
Both of those would be great for quilting! As would the Singer 66, Singer 15, and a Singer 27 or 128. All are weighty machines that have the stability to cope with bulk. My personal favourite is my Singer 15K80 hand crank. Hand cranks are perfect for piecing as you can slow them right down allowing them to cope better with bulky seams. They can get a little tiring to use though... but it's a great workout for your arm ;) If you want to stay with electric machines, go for something with a decent motor and a sturdy base. Maybe the Singer 301 or Singer 401. The 401 is often overlooked because it looks a little boring but... it's actually a really cool machine. If you want to go more modern, Janome is a good brand for electric quilting machines. They have the stability without the excess weight. The key is to make sure you try the machine out before you buy it - the best machine for you and your quilting will be the one that you are comfortable using. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 🙂
Thank you, I’ve noted them all and hopefully will be able to try a few out. I am definitely interested in the hand crank version. Appreciate you taking the time to respond. Have a great day from sunny California ☀️.
I think zig zag is nice but its not necessary. My first machine zigs and zags, my hand operated machine doesn't. and I didn't have zig and zag when I first sewed on a machine. Hand and Tredal operated sewing machines should be treasured at home and used not locked up in a museum. Many machines have been traded in and destroyed so don't get rid of the non electrics or the early electrics. Love those old machines.
No thank you, dont like "plastic masters." Esp the ones sold in Walmart and Joann's. Absolute rubbish! Buying these machines for someone lerning how to sew is a bad idea! Plastic masters have terrible tollerences and are much more difficult to use. YUCK! It's a good idea to make the person learning, to hate sewing.
![Jack Harlow - Hello Miss Johnson [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q86_nlRoIGw/mqdefault.jpg)
I really enjoy you and your videos. Thank you so much! I like how you explain things.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching! 😊
Agree. An antique item is 100 years old or more. Most people fail to understand that. I appreciate that you do and included that in this video.
For beginners: anything that has a manual available somewhere.
For nerds: anything you can just sit and poke at for hours to learn.
I learned on a 201k. But I'm also into mechanics. Being your own service center has its advantages.
I had a shop on ebay for 15 years selling dresses for vintage dolls I made them on a pre war Singer treadle it never jammed on tiny stitches it was brillaint machine paid £10 for it sold it for 100 euros after I moved abroad with it I have had many machines over last 56 years love Singer have 3
Wow I wish I could try all the machines that you have! I've only recently been interested in vintage sewing machines because of how beautiful they look. Thank you for sharing and preserving your knowledge on vintage machines ❤
I love my vintage iron machines, sew brilliant last for ever!
A great informative walk through on sewing machines for beginners.
There are funny alternatives that I have seen like the use of a stapler for hemming trousers or duct tape ;-))
Often I have used masking tape and then sewn over it rather than use pins. Most of my sewing was for covers outside in the garden, no fancy dress making skills, my background is blacksmithing, welding and sheet metal work; working with cloth is a bit easier for me.
I learned to sew a fancy dress costume back in 1984 on a 222K and later in 1999 a Lidl Victoria machine to replace a zip on denim jeans.
I still have the Victoria and it does need me to fiddle with it since the old oil and grease tends to make the moving parts a bit stiff. back in the day Singer suggested using a bit of kerosene to free up sluggish machines. You must not do that on a plastic machine, however silicon spray and a genital hair drier for heat will often help free up a modern machine.
For a beginner on an old machine is starting to sew before lowering the foot ;-)) my modern machine bleeps and error if you try.
Always practice sewing with a bit of kitchen paper then if you get a jamb it is easier to free up.
Hands up if you have every run out of lower bobbin thread and carried on sewing a seam ;-)) Tip for beginners always practice sewing on things that do not matter to build experience. Trying to sew a project for the first time without experience is very disheartening.
I've lost count of the number of times my bobbin has run out and I've carried on sewing 😆 I can't do that on my Brother SE625. It beeps at you and stops working when there's about a yard or so of thread left on the bobbin... If I ignore it to use up that leftover thread... I get one or two stitches before it beeps and stops working again. The only way to carry on with the project is to change the bobbin. In some ways having a bobbin warning is a good thing... in others... it's just as annoying as running out mid seam! 😀
I have a wonderful new Brother that I use on light weight fabrics (it can't handle anything at all heavy- .7amp motor) but I also have a vintage Kenmore with a 1.2 amp motor that I use for everything else.
That's a good combination of machines! They should definitely have all your sewing needs covered! Thanks for watching 😀
I'm vintage then lol 44 and middle aged too 😂 So I'm going to go with vintage, because we're better 😅
lol 😀 ... I am also vintage... although most days I feel more like an antique!
The old sewing machines that are over 100y old will only last another 100y longer if you oil them, then unless you drop them off a very tall building or leave them to rust in a damp garage.
They will straight stich sew through thick material and that leaves fancy plastic machines to do all the fancy lightweight works and never need servicing.
My wife uses a Brother FS40 and for any heavy work she uses a brown aluminium 201K (cost 25 uk pounds) next to it.
My older Singer VS3 1891 can do button holes and zigzag and blind stitch + a lot more just a bit slower to setup the attachment and run than the FS40.
Diagnosing sewing problems with an old boat anchor shuttle cast iron machine is quite easy, compared to modern machines.
My oldest 1880 machine sews quite well considering it is a well worn WW8 just keep your fingers out of the moving parts the same tip applies to the modern Singer 306 and the 319
I did buy a Singer 631 and a 760 they both can do a chain stitch (remove the lower bobbin etc. ) and the 760 will speed baste one stitch every 2 inches yep it is funny to watch it do that.
all the best to all vintage users
I need to check the manual for my Singer 640 to see if it can speed baste... because that's something I'd like to see! 😀
@@SimplyStitchy The speed basting in the 760; how it works is to disengage the needle bar while the dogs carry on feeding. my machine was clattering because of the wrong clearance in this disengage mechanism.
I did find this link ruclips.net/video/i82An-Uv9zk/видео.html he explains it quite well, I have learned from him working on my 1950s machines
I could make a video just for you ? if you need to see how the needle bar works and what I found.
Funny basting reminds me of... every Christmas I take batches of 6 cards and sew them down the fold line just a few stitches top and bottom (without cutting the thread) of each card so can hang them on the wall vertically, a bit daft but it works.
That would be so cool! thank you! Although, why not upload it to RUclips so other Touch & Sew users can see it too? Love the Christmas cards idea... might have to give that a try. Beats balancing them on the telly 😀
What would you recommend for a vintage machine as well as a modern machine for someone new to sewing like myself? I am looking for something very simple. And most of my sewing needs will be canvas and denim. Thank you very much. I really enjoy your videos!
Canvas and denim... For vintage I'd go Singer 15. Handcrank or treadle will handle bulk better as there's no motor to wear out. If you go electric try to get a belt-driven motor rather than a potted one. Especially if you intend sewing denim and canvas 24/7, 365 days a year. It'll be easier to fix if it does go wrong. Vintage but slightly more modern - I'd be looking at an all-metal machine. Denim and canvas are heavy fabrics so you'll need a heavy machine to give you stability to work those materials. Avoid anything that bounces as you sew. You want rock solid. Maybe a Kenmore or an older Janome. Or how about the Singer 401? Something along those lines. You also want a decent sized motor. The more powerful the better. For up to date modern, simple to use but with room to build on your sewing skills - Janome HD3000 or the Brother PQ1500. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching 😀
I've sewn through 16 layers of cotton canvas on my Singer 27 treadle with a size 16 needle ... The stitches are still beautiful and with no hesitation at all.
@@thisbasicstitch 16? That's cool! How thick was the canvas? Was it flat sewing or going over seams?
@@SimplyStitchy I am sorry I don't have information on the thickness ... I got the cotton canvas fabric at Joanns in the home decor section. 16 layers laid flat, at one point I started sewing from 2 layers going into 4, to 8, to 16 in one single stitch and the transition was also very smooth ... No skip stitches, which I'd experienced a lot with my domestic transitioning to different thickness levels.
I am excited to make an attempt at a tote bag with my antique.
Thank you for all the great information. I’m trying to take notes as I watch. What do you recommend for quilting? I have a newer Singer but when I piece blocks it’s difficult to sew over pieced material with bulky seams. I would love a vintage Singer but not sure which would work for piecing and quilting. I’m guessing a 99 or 201?
Both of those would be great for quilting! As would the Singer 66, Singer 15, and a Singer 27 or 128. All are weighty machines that have the stability to cope with bulk. My personal favourite is my Singer 15K80 hand crank. Hand cranks are perfect for piecing as you can slow them right down allowing them to cope better with bulky seams. They can get a little tiring to use though... but it's a great workout for your arm ;) If you want to stay with electric machines, go for something with a decent motor and a sturdy base. Maybe the Singer 301 or Singer 401. The 401 is often overlooked because it looks a little boring but... it's actually a really cool machine. If you want to go more modern, Janome is a good brand for electric quilting machines. They have the stability without the excess weight. The key is to make sure you try the machine out before you buy it - the best machine for you and your quilting will be the one that you are comfortable using. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 🙂
Thank you, I’ve noted them all and hopefully will be able to try a few out. I am definitely interested in the hand crank version. Appreciate you taking the time to respond. Have a great day from sunny California ☀️.
I think zig zag is nice but its not necessary. My first machine zigs and zags, my hand operated machine doesn't. and I didn't have zig and zag when I first sewed on a machine. Hand and Tredal operated sewing machines should be treasured at home and used not locked up in a museum. Many machines have been traded in and destroyed so don't get rid of the non electrics or the early electrics. Love those old machines.
As someone who's never sewn a thing, hand or machine, I will say the best ones are from 1760 to 1860.
No thank you, dont like "plastic masters." Esp the ones sold in Walmart and Joann's. Absolute rubbish! Buying these machines for someone lerning how to sew is a bad idea! Plastic masters have terrible tollerences and are much more difficult to use. YUCK! It's a good idea to make the person learning, to hate sewing.
That's why it's always a good idea to test drive a sewing machine before you buy it. So you can make sure it's fit for the job. Thanks for watching.