Sorry for the switch. The first version of this video had a missing graphic, and rather than leaving it with a big red hole in the presentation, I fixed and re-launched it. For the 40 of you who saw the bad video--think of it as a 'rare limited edition' and accept my apologies.
This is one of the very best channels for a true education on the history and intricacies of watches. It is a real joy to view any of your, I consider them tutorials, watch revues. I have learned more about horology than anywhere outside of a book. You are an excellent teacher. I wish that I would have had professors of your ability at university.
I have an old 1944 Hamilton watch my dad wore during WWII while flying B-29 Bombers. I've had it overhauled several times and wore it through my Air Force career flying B-52s and B-1 Bombers. I love that watch and wish you would do a video on old military watches, thanks.
Hi Rick, since I grew up in the Air Force, my dad and yours have a similar arch. He trained pilots in WWII, flew some combat in Korea-B-29 and F-84, and retired flying B-47s. I've had a life-time hearing loss due to an accident while in a troop ship that dependents were cargoed in while transferring overseas; so I was rejected for military service due to poor hearing. Nevertheless, I was able to get a 3rd class medical for flying and so flew on my own nickel for several years while living in San Diego-lots of time in Baja and Sinaloa Mexico. Love flying, but I never really got into the vintage military watches. Check with Clyde's channel ... he's very familiar with military watches... here's the link: ruclips.net/user/clyde2801 Kindest regards, Bill
I never got a chance to fly a B-47 but I did get a ride in a B-47 simulator before they scrapped it at Mather AFB up in Sacramento years ago but my all time favorite airplane was the B-52D model. Anyway, thanks for responding to my comment on military watches. I am not a watch collector but I do enjoy these RUclips videos on watches for some reason. I think some of them are funny because some of these collectors really have some strong opinions lol Thanks again for responding, Rick
You know when I want to wind down and relax I always put one of your videos. I find your knowledge superior and the way you present it is very humbling to me. I hope you make many more vids and I hope your channel keeps growing. Tc my friend
That explains why I couldn't post the reply I typed out! Below was my response the the example you laid out on the old post since I already typed it out... I agree with your example there which is exactly why I feel that regardless of price range, the best tool anyone has is the internet. Research into what you are purchasing in order to decide if it's a smart purchase. Believe me, I am 100% for honesty in watchmaking. I actually wish there were regulations that required companies like TAG, Omega, Breitling or anyone using a generic movement to disclose what exactly that have done to that movement in order to call it their own calibre. Many times there is no justifiable reason for the price hike aside from the name on the dial. Other times you can see general craftsmanship differences that can justify some price differences. Maybe not 10x, but you know companies will charge it if they can get away with it! I have also learned over the years (as difficult as it may be) that everyone is different as to why they buy what they buy. I've known people that will spend thousands just because of the exact look of the watch without a care in the world as far as what is inside. Just as I know people that refuse to spend more than $100 on a watch and think the idea of spending 20x the money for a less accurate watch is ludicrous. It may not be the route I agree with, but I suppose spending money can only truly be right or wrong to the person actually spending it! As usual, I always enjoy our short conversations. Cheers!
If we like watches for timekeeping and nothing else, we'd get steel watches with quartz movements. In many respects, all watch collectors are nuts. At the same time we may be crazy, there's no reason to be stupid, and your example hits the nail on the head. If we get a TAG, Omega or any other watch, we should be informed what movement is inside. When I got my Harry Winston, I knew it didn't have an HW movement, but it was going to be a Frédéric Piguet or some other equivalent movement and not an ETA, Sellita or Myota. It did indeed; a Girard Perregaux 3106. In addition, it had an Agenhor module for the bi-retrograde. I'd rather have that combination than an in-house movement of most watches! While the movement is a pretty generic high-end movement, the Agenhor module was specially built for the watch. Had that information been generally available, the value of the watch would have been higher! However, when we buy (most) luxury watches I'd better we're paying more for the marketing and advertising than the watch parts and its production. The watch companies want to keep too much, too close to their chests; and as a result, even if the movement inside the watch is great, they don't want to tell anyone. In-house movements do get some ad time, but for the most parts, they spend money on sponsoring polo matches or sport "personalities." That's what I don't like paying for. Cheers, Bill
I tend to think that the value of a watch is the emotions it carries. I just saw a conference on artificial intelligence, apparently the best decisions must be partly based on emotions. That's the real limit of artificial intelligence and what sets us apart from robots which can't have emotions. Watchmaking is also an art after all.
Hey Roman, good points. The problem seems to be 1) what stirs your emotions, and 2) is it real or advertisement? Will you play football like Beckman because you wear a Tudor? Will we really live like the images of Patek Philippe owners? I get emotional about watches...and I'm trying to figure out why! Cheers, Bill
I think anything can stirs emotions about a material object. A personal story, an heroic, poetic, aestetic, historical, or pragmatic value attached to it. Regarding advertising, I think if it is well made, it can add a cultural content to a product. I actually appreciate good advertising. And the most successful watch brands seems to do too, even if we are not dupe ;-)
To quote, Shakespeare: For I have neither wit, nor words, nor worth, Action, nor utterance, nor the power of speech, To stir men's blood: I only speak right on; .........Cheers, Bill
I find the debate of in house vs not in house movements interesting as both perspectives have some merit. I feel that if you view a watch as art there is a greater degree of superiority in most in house movements vs non in house but if you view a watch as just a nice tool the advantages of in house really diminish or disappear altogether and may even be a detriment at times. I have my own personal method for evaluating watches as I view them as art and practical tools simultaneously and it makes the hobby more fun 1. Design/aesthetics - the look and feel 2. Craftsmanship - the quality 3. Design efficiency - performing or functioning in the best possible manner with the least waste of time, effort, money, and resources. And this is is the fun part for me. Does hand finishing a beautiful in house movement increase the aesthetics of the watch? Only marginally as you cant even see it on your wrist but if you just want to look at the movement than yes but not much overall. Does if increase the craftsmanship, yes. Does it decrease the design efficiency? Usually, as the hours spent hand polishing a movement piece that is buried under other movement pieces is not a practical use of time and effort and will result in increasing the price tremendously. But using an undecorated ETA 2824 or Sallita movement diminishes the craftsmanship of the watch vs a well done superbly finished in house movement. So I look for the best balance. Using this method a put my $894 Stowa marine with roman numerals, with a perfectly proportioned case, beautiful dial, beautiful and elegant blued hands, and top grade and slightly decorated ETA 2824 right on the same level as my JLC Reverso. They are not equal in brand prestige and heritage or in craftsmanship so they are not equal watches, but taking all things into consideration they are roughly equal under my evaluation method. They have roughly equal scores for aesthetics and the JLC wins in craftsmanship while the Stowa wins in design efficiency. Long story short - if a watch has an ETA movement but everything else about the watch is executed to a very high level having an ETA movement doesn't exclude it from a potential purchase. Also, watches that may cost $50,000 aren't excluded but the craftsmanship and design/aesthetic grade have to be perfect in my eyes as it is going to have a very low design efficiency grade. This methodology is all about fun for me and is why a Patek 5170r and a Hamilton Khaki Field can sit in the same watch box.
Hi Donell, you make good points. The whole concept of 'High Horology' (HH) is a post-quartz move to create watches that are as close to hand-made and highly crafted as possible. Watches made by Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and others promise this level of craftsmanship for their watches charging high prices for their wares. A number of companies wanted to charge the HH prices but not have the development costs of a HH watch. So they began putting in cheap movements by ETA, Sellita and La Joux-Perret, many of which were excellent mechanical products; but not HH. So some companies, such as IWC, were less than forthcoming in naming the base movements in their watches, giving the impression they were made by the company with the name on the dial. Rather than spending money on the movement development; they spent it on marketing. So 'in-house' came to be associated with quality. As a practical tool watch, a Tissot with an ETA 6498 is a good as a crazy-high priced Cartier, Panerai, IWC or other brand with the same movement. As collectors, it behooves us to learn as much as we can about a watch movement before purchase so that 1) we know what we're paying for, and 2) the quality of the whole watch is worth what we pay. Cheers, Bill
Great video Bill. Fully agree with your points about how to identify a good watch. The easy approach is just to rely on the big brands but the trick thing is that this is not necessary true. There are so many pretty ordinary movements inside very famous watches that sometimes I feel they should be seriously questioned about overselling their products! The other way around is true as well. Take brands like Roger Dubuis, Parmigiani, Habring, Bovet who offer amazing pieces but don't get the same attention from the general public. My piece of advice for new collectors is to an extensive research about the models they are interested in adding to their collection to make sure they fully understand what they are about to buy. Cheers
Amintas, well put! I recently read an article that stressed the real "trade-in" value of a watch is our personal enjoyment of it. If we pay a lot for a watch, over time we should enjoy it for the ROI--not how much we can re-sell it for. Cheers, Bill
I didn't realize why much of the movement "decoration" is still put into movements except for exhibition casebacks. So the tradition of putting cote de geneve, Geneva strips, and perelage were used to trap contamination, so Rolex and other companies still puts those into its movements to do just that - help trap contamination not necessarily aestetics.
Nice vid as always. I suppose with watches I am much as I am with cars. I have had Mercedes V8's and Chevy V8's. It was more the overall look and feel of the overall machine that interested me than the engine itself. The Chevy V8 in a Corvette is like a Rolex movement ... rugged, dependable and reasonable to maintain. The Mercedes V8 in a 560SL a lot more refined but requires more attention and expense to maintain. The buying decision on both was not made on the engine type. It was how I felt when I drove the auto. That is the same way I feel about watches. I think Rolexes are boring, but I really like JLC and GO. But the engine inside any of those isn't the deciding factor for a purchase. I do, however, enjoy learning all I can about the movements of quality watches as well as the design motivations, same as learning about a Pagani sports car, though I would never buy one or a high horolgy watch either. Your shows are really getting good. Rea and I look forward to Fri and Sun. Thanks for sharing you time and thought with everyone. Cheers from Saigon.
Hey J.R., sorry it took me so long to get back to you; crazy day. If that Chevy had a Yugo engine, you may have felt differently about the role of an engine in a car and the movement in a watch. But I see your good taste has saved you yet again-love JLCs and GOs. You could slap a Sellita in either of those watches and would you have the same watch? Or would you have a Yugo in a Chevy? (My videos are just "getting good"; well it's about time! I won't ask what they were like before they started "getting good"....really know how to hurt a guy....) You need a high horology watch! You will know...you will feel different. Lots pre-owned available. But don't take my word for it. Go buy one for Rhea and see what she thinks. Kindest regards, Bill
Most very expensive square cases from before 1980 have tiny ovalized movements made for women's watches and that's something I always hated but I don't open these watches unless I'm forced to... What you can't see can't harm you? 😅😂
Good stuff as always Bill. I really don't need another watch. But the temptation is very great. You have reviewed my small collection. I do love the Rolex group. The accuracy, quality and robustness is hard to beat. But maybe something is missing. Something in limited production numbers. Something with the personal touch. Could I be thinking of a Felix?
Bill, what do you think of the JLC Polaris Automatic? I was thinking of picking one up, but it seems to me this watch fails the test of the movement fitting the case. But maybe that's why this watch is at a lower price point than most JLC.
Hi Watch Fan; the JLC Polaris are an entry-level watch of Jaeger-LeCoultre and as such are given the available movements in current production rather than case-fitting ones for special watches. If a movement and case size are better matches, it can sometimes mean that a movement just happens to be available that will fit a given case. Kindest regards, Bill
Good day. I want to watch a video devoted to felca watches by their watches since I own the felca space star watch, but I can not find any information on this model. thank you
I really like what you say about movements and watches. I think about the hype that was made around the new Marlin by Timex in 2017. It has a chinese womens movement hold by a plastic keeper wich nobody seemed to bother. Ok a cheap watch for beginners...but why such a hype for a watch with a movement like this. I did not inderstand.
Hi ES Most of Timex watches are cheap but accurate while they last. Why the hype for any of the cheap movements? Tiffany came out with a very cool, very expensive watch, the EastWest. Love it for a dress watch, but it has a Sellita movement! Go figure. Cheers, Bill
доброго дня. бажаю переглянути відео посвячене годинникам компанії felca їх годинникакам оскільки володію годинником felca space star, але неможу знайти жодноі інформації по даній моделі. дякую
Hey Matty, it's funny how some brands are almost all automatic, covered movement with metal bracelets (like Rolex) while others are hand-wind, sapphire window in the back and leather/gator straps. The new H. Moser et Cie Streamliner Centre Seconds and Streamliner Flyback Chronograph are great examples of the latter with metal bracelets. Take care and be safe, Bill 😷
Hi Mi Az, here's a list of everywhere in the world you can get a Habring2: www.habring2.com/index.php/en/traders/sales-points-international Cheers, Bill
Very few companies are all in house. Personally it doesn't bother me. Sure, if I'm spending 10k for a watch in house is nice. But, not all companies should try for in house. Do what you're good at. If you specialize in case making, you shouldn't be making movements. Use a reputable movement manufacturer instead.
Rolex is in house now, make all the components of watch. So is Seiko. Is Seiko the same quality as Rolex? Quality is subjective. That Harry Winston you showed isn't in house, but they used some of the best movement and module companies to create the best watch they could, does that make them less quality than Rolex? I think people make too much of a big deal over in-house.
Jason, no one said the HW was in-house. None of their movements are; yet some were made by the best watchmakers in the world. Rolex has good quality watches. Take care, Bill
Hi Jeffrey ... it's complicated. One the one hand, they're extremely well-built, attractive and good technically. I have yet to meet an owner who doesn't like them. On the other hand, there's something about the hi-beat that moves away from the kind of craftsmanship that I appreciate most that uses the lo-beat frequency of 2.5Hz. (See ruclips.net/video/NX9vQRC_hh4/видео.html ). However, they are well-priced, but if you are interested in a non-Swiss craftsmanship, here are a couple of places to look: www.hajimeasaoka.com , www.ahci.ch/members/lin-yong-hua/ , www.masahirokikuno.jp , www.ahci.ch/members/xushu-ma/ , www.ahci.ch/members/zehua-tan/ Of these watchmakers, Zihua-Tan is my favorite and I hope someday to have a watch he had made. Kindest regards, Bill
@@watchartsci Thank you for your views. I myself own a Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA127. I think Grand Seiko is particularly good at making facets and polishing them till they are really mirror-like, and making the facets come sharply to a well-defined edge. That said, I do think their models are repetitive and singing the same old tune hundreds of times. Splash on a different dial and call it Limited Edition, and push it at a higher price, that's all they do. After going for the global stage and re-labelling themselves separate from the parent company Seiko, I feel that they had gone downhill. Innovation stopped, designs are stale and prices going up. I also think their watches are oversized. That said, I really love the pure smooth sweep of the seconds hand on a Spring Drive. It's captivating to watch it glide. Another question. What are your views on high end quartz movement? The likes of calibre 0100, or the other Citizen's high end quartz movements that guarantee accuracy within 5 sec a year? The world seemed split on this too, some appreciate the immense technological (and passion) from the engineers to manufacture this, while others scorn at the mention of quartz.
A friend of mine got (or is getting) a calibre 0100 Citizen ...but I miss the point. The computers in my smart phone can check on atomic clocks for near-perfect precision ... so what's the purpose of pushing quartz? I have considered a FP Journe Elegante, but that watch has a FPJ-designed quartz with a 'sleep function' that reduces the battery drain to next to nothing when not in used and then starts up again ... at the correct time ... when the watch is put on in the morning. To me that's more interesting than the accuracy of a quartz. Cheers, Bill
you’re not good at putting the watch in front of the lens 😂, trick is put it directly in front of the lens even if it blocks your view, don’t worry you’ll be back once you move the watch away 😎
your beautiful harbering would be the highest I would aspire to own ,hand made,in house,limited number,fair price.its a fantastic watch, now is a say hublot ten times the watch the harbering 7s no way is a patek ten times the craftsmanship no ,those are shameless in price.y8u can buy a used patek box on ebay over a thousand dollars I would rather save couple thousand tell them to put mine in brown paper bag.there is little difference to finishing of a patek and grand seiko 👍
Hi Paul, Richard Habring is one of those brilliant watchmakers who come along once in a blue moon. He's not unlike F.P. Journe or Roger Smith. F.P. Journe watches tend to be made of platinum and gold, and as yet, I don't think he's ever made a stainless steel watch. Not sure about Smith. What FP Journe changes for his entry level watches made of gold is on par with what Patek Philippe and others charge-the difference is that FP Journes are hand-made from beginning to end. One of the problems of gold is that the price of gold has increased to the point of near absurdity. I'm perfectly happy with a Habring2 at a quarter of the price!! Cheers, Bill
Sorry for the switch. The first version of this video had a missing graphic, and rather than leaving it with a big red hole in the presentation, I fixed and re-launched it. For the 40 of you who saw the bad video--think of it as a 'rare limited edition' and accept my apologies.
This is one of the very best channels for a true education on the history and intricacies of watches. It is a real joy to view any of your, I consider them tutorials, watch revues. I have learned more about horology than anywhere outside of a book. You are an excellent teacher. I wish that I would have had professors of your ability at university.
Hey Mindfire, thanks man! I'm just talking about what I enjoy! Take care and be safe, Bill 😷
I have an old 1944 Hamilton watch my dad wore during WWII while flying B-29 Bombers. I've had it overhauled several times and wore it through my Air Force career flying B-52s and B-1 Bombers. I love that watch and wish you would do a video on old military watches, thanks.
Hi Rick, since I grew up in the Air Force, my dad and yours have a similar arch. He trained pilots in WWII, flew some combat in Korea-B-29 and F-84, and retired flying B-47s. I've had a life-time hearing loss due to an accident while in a troop ship that dependents were cargoed in while transferring overseas; so I was rejected for military service due to poor hearing. Nevertheless, I was able to get a 3rd class medical for flying and so flew on my own nickel for several years while living in San Diego-lots of time in Baja and Sinaloa Mexico. Love flying, but I never really got into the vintage military watches. Check with Clyde's channel ... he's very familiar with military watches... here's the link: ruclips.net/user/clyde2801 Kindest regards, Bill
I never got a chance to fly a B-47 but I did get a ride in a B-47 simulator before they scrapped it at Mather AFB up in Sacramento years ago but my all time favorite airplane was the B-52D model. Anyway, thanks for responding to my comment on military watches. I am not a watch collector but I do enjoy these RUclips videos on watches for some reason. I think some of them are funny because some of these collectors really have some strong opinions lol Thanks again for responding, Rick
This channel is so underrated
We only attract the very best collectors AmirHossein.😉 Take care, Bill
I come to this video now and then to improve my knowledge on quality. Saying this as a designer. Thanks much sir ~ from India.
Thanks Abhilash! I have no design skills at all, but I love good design! Take care and be safe, Bill😷
You know when I want to wind down and relax I always put one of your videos. I find your knowledge superior and the way you present it is very humbling to me. I hope you make many more vids and I hope your channel keeps growing. Tc my friend
Wow, thank you, Jinx! Take care, Bill
That explains why I couldn't post the reply I typed out! Below was my response the the example you laid out on the old post since I already typed it out...
I agree with your example there which is exactly why I feel that regardless of price range, the best tool anyone has is the internet. Research into what you are purchasing in order to decide if it's a smart purchase. Believe me, I am 100% for honesty in watchmaking. I actually wish there were regulations that required companies like TAG, Omega, Breitling or anyone using a generic movement to disclose what exactly that have done to that movement in order to call it their own calibre. Many times there is no justifiable reason for the price hike aside from the name on the dial. Other times you can see general craftsmanship differences that can justify some price differences. Maybe not 10x, but you know companies will charge it if they can get away with it!
I have also learned over the years (as difficult as it may be) that everyone is different as to why they buy what they buy. I've known people that will spend thousands just because of the exact look of the watch without a care in the world as far as what is inside. Just as I know people that refuse to spend more than $100 on a watch and think the idea of spending 20x the money for a less accurate watch is ludicrous. It may not be the route I agree with, but I suppose spending money can only truly be right or wrong to the person actually spending it!
As usual, I always enjoy our short conversations. Cheers!
If we like watches for timekeeping and nothing else, we'd get steel watches with quartz movements. In many respects, all watch collectors are nuts. At the same time we may be crazy, there's no reason to be stupid, and your example hits the nail on the head. If we get a TAG, Omega or any other watch, we should be informed what movement is inside. When I got my Harry Winston, I knew it didn't have an HW movement, but it was going to be a Frédéric Piguet or some other equivalent movement and not an ETA, Sellita or Myota. It did indeed; a Girard Perregaux 3106. In addition, it had an Agenhor module for the bi-retrograde. I'd rather have that combination than an in-house movement of most watches! While the movement is a pretty generic high-end movement, the Agenhor module was specially built for the watch. Had that information been generally available, the value of the watch would have been higher! However, when we buy (most) luxury watches I'd better we're paying more for the marketing and advertising than the watch parts and its production. The watch companies want to keep too much, too close to their chests; and as a result, even if the movement inside the watch is great, they don't want to tell anyone. In-house movements do get some ad time, but for the most parts, they spend money on sponsoring polo matches or sport "personalities." That's what I don't like paying for. Cheers, Bill
I tend to think that the value of a watch is the emotions it carries. I just saw a conference on artificial intelligence, apparently the best decisions must be partly based on emotions. That's the real limit of artificial intelligence and what sets us apart from robots which can't have emotions. Watchmaking is also an art after all.
Hey Roman, good points. The problem seems to be 1) what stirs your emotions, and 2) is it real or advertisement? Will you play football like Beckman because you wear a Tudor? Will we really live like the images of Patek Philippe owners? I get emotional about watches...and I'm trying to figure out why! Cheers, Bill
I think anything can stirs emotions about a material object. A personal story, an heroic, poetic, aestetic, historical, or pragmatic value attached to it. Regarding advertising, I think if it is well made, it can add a cultural content to a product. I actually appreciate good advertising. And the most successful watch brands seems to do too, even if we are not dupe ;-)
To quote, Shakespeare:
For I have neither wit, nor words, nor worth,
Action, nor utterance, nor the power of speech,
To stir men's blood: I only speak right on;
.........Cheers, Bill
I find the debate of in house vs not in house movements interesting as both perspectives have some merit. I feel that if you view a watch as art there is a greater degree of superiority in most in house movements vs non in house but if you view a watch as just a nice tool the advantages of in house really diminish or disappear altogether and may even be a detriment at times. I have my own personal method for evaluating watches as I view them as art and practical tools simultaneously and it makes the hobby more fun
1. Design/aesthetics - the look and feel
2. Craftsmanship - the quality
3. Design efficiency - performing or functioning in the best possible manner with the least waste of time, effort, money, and resources.
And this is is the fun part for me. Does hand finishing a beautiful in house movement increase the aesthetics of the watch? Only marginally as you cant even see it on your wrist but if you just want to look at the movement than yes but not much overall. Does if increase the craftsmanship, yes. Does it decrease the design efficiency? Usually, as the hours spent hand polishing a movement piece that is buried under other movement pieces is not a practical use of time and effort and will result in increasing the price tremendously. But using an undecorated ETA 2824 or Sallita movement diminishes the craftsmanship of the watch vs a well done superbly finished in house movement. So I look for the best balance. Using this method a put my $894 Stowa marine with roman numerals, with a perfectly proportioned case, beautiful dial, beautiful and elegant blued hands, and top grade and slightly decorated ETA 2824 right on the same level as my JLC Reverso. They are not equal in brand prestige and heritage or in craftsmanship so they are not equal watches, but taking all things into consideration they are roughly equal under my evaluation method. They have roughly equal scores for aesthetics and the JLC wins in craftsmanship while the Stowa wins in design efficiency. Long story short - if a watch has an ETA movement but everything else about the watch is executed to a very high level having an ETA movement doesn't exclude it from a potential purchase. Also, watches that may cost $50,000 aren't excluded but the craftsmanship and design/aesthetic grade have to be perfect in my eyes as it is going to have a very low design efficiency grade. This methodology is all about fun for me and is why a Patek 5170r and a Hamilton Khaki Field can sit in the same watch box.
Hi Donell, you make good points. The whole concept of 'High Horology' (HH) is a post-quartz move to create watches that are as close to hand-made and highly crafted as possible. Watches made by Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and others promise this level of craftsmanship for their watches charging high prices for their wares. A number of companies wanted to charge the HH prices but not have the development costs of a HH watch. So they began putting in cheap movements by ETA, Sellita and La Joux-Perret, many of which were excellent mechanical products; but not HH. So some companies, such as IWC, were less than forthcoming in naming the base movements in their watches, giving the impression they were made by the company with the name on the dial. Rather than spending money on the movement development; they spent it on marketing. So 'in-house' came to be associated with quality. As a practical tool watch, a Tissot with an ETA 6498 is a good as a crazy-high priced Cartier, Panerai, IWC or other brand with the same movement. As collectors, it behooves us to learn as much as we can about a watch movement before purchase so that 1) we know what we're paying for, and 2) the quality of the whole watch is worth what we pay. Cheers, Bill
Seeing the thumbnail I thought Richard Attenborough was going to show his watch collection ;P
Richard Attenborough?....pas mal... Kindest regards, Bill
Great video Bill.
Fully agree with your points about how to identify a good watch.
The easy approach is just to rely on the big brands but the trick thing is that this is not necessary true.
There are so many pretty ordinary movements inside very famous watches that sometimes I feel they should be seriously questioned about overselling their products!
The other way around is true as well.
Take brands like Roger Dubuis, Parmigiani, Habring, Bovet who offer amazing pieces but don't get the same attention from the general public.
My piece of advice for new collectors is to an extensive research about the models they are interested in adding to their collection to make sure they fully understand what they are about to buy.
Cheers
Amintas, well put! I recently read an article that stressed the real "trade-in" value of a watch is our personal enjoyment of it. If we pay a lot for a watch, over time we should enjoy it for the ROI--not how much we can re-sell it for. Cheers, Bill
I didn't realize why much of the movement "decoration" is still put into movements except for exhibition casebacks. So the tradition of putting cote de geneve, Geneva strips, and perelage were used to trap contamination, so Rolex and other companies still puts those into its movements to do just that - help trap contamination not necessarily aestetics.
Ever since they've had waterproof casing, the little traps that the pelage and Geneva waves are used for are pretty much for decoration. Cheers, bill
Your attire is top notch.
Thanks Bill. Be safe.
My pleasure Asmara... Take care and be safe, Bill😷
@@watchartsci I sent you the photo of the Patek on your Instagram for your visual pleasure. 😀
Interesting approach (of which I agree). Thank you. I think I shall watch some more posts....
Hey Kes great to hear from you. I will be very interested in what you think. Kindest regards, Bill
Nice vid as always. I suppose with watches I am much as I am with cars. I have had Mercedes V8's and Chevy V8's. It was more the overall look and feel of the overall machine that interested me than the engine itself. The Chevy V8 in a Corvette is like a Rolex movement ... rugged, dependable and reasonable to maintain. The Mercedes V8 in a 560SL
a lot more refined but requires more attention and expense to maintain. The buying decision on both was not made on the engine type. It was how I felt when I drove the auto. That is the same way I feel about watches. I think Rolexes are boring, but I really like JLC and GO. But the engine inside any of those isn't the deciding factor for a purchase. I do, however, enjoy learning all I can about the movements of quality watches as well as the design motivations, same as learning about a Pagani sports car, though I would never buy one or a high horolgy watch either. Your shows are really getting good. Rea and I look forward to Fri and Sun. Thanks for sharing you time and thought with everyone. Cheers from Saigon.
Hey J.R., sorry it took me so long to get back to you; crazy day. If that Chevy had a Yugo engine, you may have felt differently about the role of an engine in a car and the movement in a watch. But I see your good taste has saved you yet again-love JLCs and GOs. You could slap a Sellita in either of those watches and would you have the same watch? Or would you have a Yugo in a Chevy? (My videos are just "getting good"; well it's about time! I won't ask what they were like before they started "getting good"....really know how to hurt a guy....) You need a high horology watch! You will know...you will feel different. Lots pre-owned available. But don't take my word for it. Go buy one for Rhea and see what she thinks. Kindest regards, Bill
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric hemispheres retrograde is the pf317 caliber actually an Agenhor movement?
Gidi, I believe the retrograde module is by Agenhor. Take care, Bill
Knowledgeable to the extreme, but impressive.
Thank you NS! I'm glad you can find it useful. Kindest regards, Bill
Very interesting, but I would not compare a ETA with an AGENHOR. Since a watch with an Agenhor caliber can cost over 40,000€
Good point Paolocap. Take care, Bill
Most very expensive square cases from before 1980 have tiny ovalized movements made for women's watches and that's something I always hated but I don't open these watches unless I'm forced to...
What you can't see can't harm you? 😅😂
Interesting take Laurentius.🤔 But what you cannot see can hurt. Take care, Bill
love your passion
Good stuff as always Bill. I really don't need another watch. But the temptation is very great. You have reviewed my small collection. I do love the Rolex group. The accuracy, quality and robustness is hard to beat. But maybe something is missing. Something in limited production numbers. Something with the personal touch. Could I be thinking of a Felix?
Bill, what do you think of the JLC Polaris Automatic? I was thinking of picking one up, but it seems to me this watch fails the test of the movement fitting the case. But maybe that's why this watch is at a lower price point than most JLC.
Hi Watch Fan; the JLC Polaris are an entry-level watch of Jaeger-LeCoultre and as such are given the available movements in current production rather than case-fitting ones for special watches. If a movement and case size are better matches, it can sometimes mean that a movement just happens to be available that will fit a given case. Kindest regards, Bill
Good day. I want to watch a video devoted to felca watches by their watches since I own the felca space star watch, but I can not find any information on this model. thank you
Hi Юрій Печенков! Check out this link: www.ethoswatches.com/the-watch-guide/titoni-the-brand-story-2/ I believe Felca became Titoni. Cheers, Bill
I really like what you say about movements and watches. I think about the hype that was made around the new Marlin by Timex in 2017. It has a chinese womens movement hold by a plastic keeper wich nobody seemed to bother. Ok a cheap watch for beginners...but why such a hype for a watch with a movement like this. I did not inderstand.
Hi ES Most of Timex watches are cheap but accurate while they last. Why the hype for any of the cheap movements? Tiffany came out with a very cool, very expensive watch, the EastWest. Love it for a dress watch, but it has a Sellita movement! Go figure. Cheers, Bill
доброго дня. бажаю переглянути відео посвячене годинникам компанії felca їх годинникакам оскільки володію годинником felca space star, але неможу знайти жодноі інформації по даній моделі. дякую
Do these ever come on bracelets? Straps don't feel like my money was spent well. The more engineering ThE better to me.
Hey Matty, it's funny how some brands are almost all automatic, covered movement with metal bracelets (like Rolex) while others are hand-wind, sapphire window in the back and leather/gator straps. The new H. Moser et Cie Streamliner Centre Seconds and Streamliner Flyback Chronograph are great examples of the latter with metal bracelets. Take care and be safe, Bill 😷
Hello friend. Where do i buy that habring watch ? I love it soooo much
Hi Mi Az, here's a list of everywhere in the world you can get a Habring2: www.habring2.com/index.php/en/traders/sales-points-international Cheers, Bill
Very few companies are all in house. Personally it doesn't bother me. Sure, if I'm spending 10k for a watch in house is nice. But, not all companies should try for in house. Do what you're good at. If you specialize in case making, you shouldn't be making movements. Use a reputable movement manufacturer instead.
Quality movement are quality regardless of whether in-house or not, Jason. Take care, Bill
Thank You! )
You are welcome! Cheers, Bill
Rolex is in house now, make all the components of watch. So is Seiko. Is Seiko the same quality as Rolex?
Quality is subjective.
That Harry Winston you showed isn't in house, but they used some of the best movement and module companies to create the best watch they could, does that make them less quality than Rolex?
I think people make too much of a big deal over in-house.
Jason, no one said the HW was in-house. None of their movements are; yet some were made by the best watchmakers in the world. Rolex has good quality watches. Take care, Bill
Is it just me that thinks Apple watch has completely ripped off the H. Moser & Cie SWISS ALP WATCH S?
James, OMG! You're right! 😁 Cheers, Bill
What are your views on Grand Seiko and their Spring Drive movement?
Hi Jeffrey ... it's complicated. One the one hand, they're extremely well-built, attractive and good technically. I have yet to meet an owner who doesn't like them. On the other hand, there's something about the hi-beat that moves away from the kind of craftsmanship that I appreciate most that uses the lo-beat frequency of 2.5Hz. (See ruclips.net/video/NX9vQRC_hh4/видео.html ). However, they are well-priced, but if you are interested in a non-Swiss craftsmanship, here are a couple of places to look: www.hajimeasaoka.com , www.ahci.ch/members/lin-yong-hua/ , www.masahirokikuno.jp , www.ahci.ch/members/xushu-ma/ , www.ahci.ch/members/zehua-tan/ Of these watchmakers, Zihua-Tan is my favorite and I hope someday to have a watch he had made. Kindest regards, Bill
@@watchartsci Thank you for your views. I myself own a Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA127. I think Grand Seiko is particularly good at making facets and polishing them till they are really mirror-like, and making the facets come sharply to a well-defined edge.
That said, I do think their models are repetitive and singing the same old tune hundreds of times. Splash on a different dial and call it Limited Edition, and push it at a higher price, that's all they do. After going for the global stage and re-labelling themselves separate from the parent company Seiko, I feel that they had gone downhill. Innovation stopped, designs are stale and prices going up. I also think their watches are oversized.
That said, I really love the pure smooth sweep of the seconds hand on a Spring Drive. It's captivating to watch it glide.
Another question. What are your views on high end quartz movement? The likes of calibre 0100, or the other Citizen's high end quartz movements that guarantee accuracy within 5 sec a year? The world seemed split on this too, some appreciate the immense technological (and passion) from the engineers to manufacture this, while others scorn at the mention of quartz.
A friend of mine got (or is getting) a calibre 0100 Citizen ...but I miss the point. The computers in my smart phone can check on atomic clocks for near-perfect precision ... so what's the purpose of pushing quartz? I have considered a FP Journe Elegante, but that watch has a FPJ-designed quartz with a 'sleep function' that reduces the battery drain to next to nothing when not in used and then starts up again ... at the correct time ... when the watch is put on in the morning. To me that's more interesting than the accuracy of a quartz. Cheers, Bill
@@watchartsci Thank you for your views! I'm going to have a H Moser in my collection soon. It's shipping on the way...
Great Jeffrey!! Which model did you get? I like H. Moser's better all the time!! Kindest regards, Bill
you’re not good at putting the watch in front of the lens 😂, trick is put it directly in front of the lens even if it blocks your view, don’t worry you’ll be back once you move the watch away 😎
Yes, Milan, you are correct. I'm torn between keeping it in focus and making it big enough to see. Kindest regards, Bill
your beautiful harbering would be the highest I would aspire to own ,hand made,in house,limited number,fair price.its a fantastic watch, now is a say hublot ten times the watch the harbering 7s no way is a patek ten times the craftsmanship no ,those are shameless in price.y8u can buy a used patek box on ebay over a thousand dollars I would rather save couple thousand tell them to put mine in brown paper bag.there is little difference to finishing of a patek and grand seiko 👍
Hi Paul, Richard Habring is one of those brilliant watchmakers who come along once in a blue moon. He's not unlike F.P. Journe or Roger Smith. F.P. Journe watches tend to be made of platinum and gold, and as yet, I don't think he's ever made a stainless steel watch. Not sure about Smith. What FP Journe changes for his entry level watches made of gold is on par with what Patek Philippe and others charge-the difference is that FP Journes are hand-made from beginning to end. One of the problems of gold is that the price of gold has increased to the point of near absurdity. I'm perfectly happy with a Habring2 at a quarter of the price!! Cheers, Bill
WatchArtSci fantastic gorgeous watch,hours minutes and small seconds Perfection as far as my love for a watch goes,see you sunday 👍
May I have your Phone number ?Ineed an advice from you regarding to an offer of a watch
Angeles, shoot me an email at: williebegoode@att.net , and I'll be glad to help you out. Kindest regards, Bill
Too wordy.
Too many words for you Neal? Ok. Take care, Bill