Inside a chunky 7W PAR30 LED landfill lamp. Good hack potential.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 24 окт 2019
- The most appealing thing about this lamp is the chunky housing. It's a very heavy piece of cast and machined alloy that would be a good starting point for a customised lamp or any other application that required a similar heatsink. It would also look good as part of a sci-fi prop.
I'll guess that the majority of these lamps will cook their power supply due to the usual location above the main source of heat. Not helped by wrapping it in Kapton tape and the lack of ventilation.
The light output of this particular lamp is quite disappointing for its rating. That might be due to lesser LEDs or the collimating optics.
I noticed that these lamps were available in red and blue for grow purposes. But I also noticed that stock was being cleared out by various sellers, suggesting a lack of performance. Especially given how that market has evolved.
This lamp is very serviceable. The parts are held together by screws and can be repaired/swapped by a technically inclined person. It would also lend itself to adaptation and customisation.
You may be able to find these on eBay if you search for PAR30 LED.
An interesting mod might be to remove the front and lenses and drill/tap some holes to fix the bare LED module onto the heatsink for a wider spread of light. A round COB style LED could be interesting to fit too.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of RUclips's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. 
Наука
"30 eighths of an inch"
A completely sane measuring system.
In the industries that I service 1/4" is sometimes a unit of measure, a "4BV" is a 1-inch NPT butterfly valve and a 24BV is a 6-inch NPT butterfly valve. Other items follow similar conventions. Screwy, right?
You no like the improper fractions?
better than measuring in multiples of 17/43rds of a squibble. I shouldn't have said that, some loony will invent something for idiots that uses that measurement. Designed by lunatics for idiots or should it be designed by idiots for lunatics?
Machinist drill bits start with "The 64ths" - a normal "set" goes all the way from 1/64th to 1/2 by 64ths.
But. Wait. We need finer steps at the smaller sizes, and yet mostly skip all the way from 1/2 to 3/4 in one step in actual usage....
So there's the "Number Drills" They aren't strictly the "Stubbs Steel wire gauges", but they basically taper geometrically with the *larger* numbers being *smaller* drill bits.
But, wait. There's *still* some spots that we need other drills! (In machining, as opposed to carpentry or whatever, you're often trying to get two parts to have a 'press fit', or a 'clearance fit', or trying to make the _head_ of the bolt fit into a recess, or whatever. So...
There's a "Letter Set" that sort of skips around some but hits crucial parts.
All in all: You have three or four charts taped to your "Complete Drill Index Set" just to figure out the *name* of the drill bit you want :D
F Inperial, metric is just so much more easy!
"For people like us..."
We need more of those people. Thank you for what you do.
There's lots of us here.
No, we just need to charge more
@@bigclivedotcom hello mate would love to have a word with you if possible dcajames.dj@gmail.com
I really like that aluminium housing. Not as a lamp, but as part of a model, say in a science fiction diorama.
Taking my son to school this morning I noticed 2 street led lamps doing the on off thing I was like I could fix that. Also learned what par30 stands for. Cheers from freezing kansas. PSA if your thermostat has batteries check and replace them, because if they leak and due to bad design (putting the batteries on top of the thermostat) the acid will leak down the board and components and eat them.
Have you just learned that the hard way?
@@bigclivedotcom yes sir, new house to us tho, only ben 2 months since we moved in, so to correct the problem I bought a thermostat with the batteries at the bottom.
Apropos the on and off thing. My 2011 ASUS monitor started doing that recently. Fixed it last night. Getting it out of the enclosure was the only difficult part, but luckily not a single clip broke, because the clips are critical, they're the only thing holding everything together mechanically, the power and scaler box is barely taped onto the back of the panel, and there's a total of one screw in the thing. Electrolytic capacitor failure on the 16V rail of the power supply, and the failed ones being jammed between two heatsinks, well, there's your recipe for trouble, plus they have to stem all the ripple coming off the diode on the secondary. As a bonus, apparently i installed the panel with less warpage than the factory so the image in the corners looks a lot better, with none of the rainbow against dark colours.
There are thermostats that do not require batteries, not sure why they haven't caught on. A supercap is all that's necessary to keep the clock going in case the power glitches.
@@NiHaoMike64 You're confused. I was going to say thermostats don't have clocks in them - they're temperature based not time.
I have one of those! And I love it. That thing lights up my workbench better than any light I have had previous when it comes to needing directed lighting. I use other LED lamps but this one you are showing, is by far the best I have yet had to put a lot of light right where I need it.
"we are in , like Flynn" --> every time I hear that , I want to watch again Tron ( legacy , because of daft punk, 2 french guys like me )
The power supply says "Dark energy" on the back. Interesting.
Innnnthørøsteeŋ!
Every time you turn one on, you speed up the expansion of the universe a little bit.
I thought it said Dank energy.
"in like flynn - as dave would say" you got me smiling there
flynn didn't have a dead dingo's donger :)
Very clever how it looks at the demagnetization time and determines that the load has disappeared when that time gets too short.
Got foldback on the current limiting as well.
It's a tidy package for the 5-7 watt power conversion applications.
The housing is great, verrrrrrry hackable.
How nice of them to even mark the LED polarity on the board!
Thanks Clive! I always like to support endangered species so I have a couple on the way.
Going to try them with those colour changing LEDs. It might be a nice effect.
That would be a good project to do whilst you regale us with tales of electrical oddities with an interesting end result!
*stares into magnifier*
*"Focus, you f---"*
I was expecting someone to mention that XD
The ones i have in my hotel (the ones i repair, i said it in one of your previous videos) are quite similar, but with an external PSU and JST connector for the connection... quite easy to repair (or modify, as you usually do)
Cool looking heat sink for an audio transistor or two !
With those separate lenses you can get replacements for whatever light angle you want. From narrow to really wide.
The power supply is usually constant current to supply between 3-7 leds usually, quite flexible. Not sure if you can do it with the mains ones, but I have modded 12v versions to run at a lower current (about 250mA) and they then become almost indestructible, Light output is reduced, but the LED's run much cooler.
I have some 7 watt down lights in my bathroom with chunky heatsinks and separate power supplies, they have been in 10 years though most of them have had a led replaced which even a duffer like me can do.
I've "serviced" a bunch of the smaller M15 spotlights commonly used in modern ceiling lighting. The power supplies are dirt cheap and easy to replace. Unfortunately, most of the ones that die, do so because the cooling is insufficient, so even the replacement PS died very quickly. I gave up servicing those and just rotated different brands until I found one that was designed to dissipate enough heat.
Clive, for several years our power company (Duke Energy) has been giving energy efficient lamps to new accounts. 3-4yrs ago Duke Energy first gave us a case of assorted CFL "Twistys". Some of them are still good Then early last year, they sent us a box of about 20 LED Lamps. In less than 18months, all of the 20 or so "FREE" LED lamps have went bad. The only LED lamps I have that are still working, are the 3 Sylvania LED lamps I purchased at "Lowe's Home Improvement" for $30+ back in 2016, to fit in those stupid G10 & G24 type kitchen/Bath fixtures that were in the house when I bought it. I guess cheap chinese LED's aren't very cost efficient in the long run.
Ralfy sent me. I don't regret coming here 👍👍👍👍
Why am I only just getting notified of this 3 days after I watched it when it was published?!
Just what I need, a gear wheel that lights up... 😆
It's also worth noting a PAR number in the context of lighting can mean "photo-synthetically active radiation" and is a measure of what percentage of the light output is in the parts of the spectrum that plants can use for photosynthesis.
Never knew what PAR stood for. Holy shit! :O :D
Had you checked beforehand that the metal wasn't going to be live?!
PS. Would have been Aussie50's 34th birthday today. Still sad about what happened.
Yeah. Those Facebook birthday reminders leaveyou feeling a little hollow.
Amen. A number of times been seeing Aussie50s videos pop up. Gone back and looked at a few time and again... but, quite often too saddened by it and move onto another video to take my mind off of it.
He was fine, he's using a polarized fitting...if he'd been using a bayonet to Edison screw adapter, as is often the only option, would have been a different story.
Conductive path through the metallisation from the screw to fingers- 50% chance of connecting your fingers to the live :/
Hate that those things are for general sale, no way for the average member of the public to ensure the correct(safe) polarization of the fitting.
Even without the crappy conductive bulb, plenty of lightbulbs still expose a portion of the screw for touching accidentally. On the assumption that the outer screw is connected to neutral by law...
Those adapters are irresponsible tbh, as is the influx of ES bulbs into the market with nary a way to wire them up safely to a household fitting
I like that one, very nice.
You could chuck away the innards and use it as a nice heatsink for summat
would love to see you do a COB mod to one of these!
Great video. BIG Clive
Nice one
That would also work as a UV light. Those P4 style emitters come in so many varieties. Mostly as "bead LED" from china.
When your house eventually fills up with eBay junk and you are living in a maze of boxes, consider how much some people will bid for a "Mystery Box" on eBay.
Just a thought that I'm also considering...
The downside is the copst of shipping something like that. The UK postal service isn't really in tune with ecommerce.
Said the guy who fobbed his rusty old spanners to another random guy in Canada.
One day it will be sealed in the Poundland Vault!
@@gadgetman36 Get out your spudger and modify!
All that aluminum. Hmm. Is there room to wedge a 85650 in there? Maybe on the "Front" side and stick a COB in the smaller "Back" well area? Regardless, it would make a heck of a flashlight head.
The best bit is at 2:37 when everything comes out
We are in... Yes! ;-)
The nylon gardening gloves with extra-rubbery palms and fingers are excellent for working on "maybe energised" components. The finger / palm insulation is certainly OK up to 1 kV (per my Megger!). Mind you it's best to make sure things are NOT energised if at all possible!
I like the gloves with the rubber dipped palms and open fabric back. Protection without sweating.
@@bigclivedotcom The nice thing about these is that they are pretty cheap too. Good safety margin for 240v, though 3ph might be tempting fate somewhat! ;-)
Hi bigclivedotcom i recently started having gsm connection issues in my village and new flat i moved in.
There are gsm boosters but they are really expensive, so could i ask you make a review on maybe some cheap chinese ones if they work or not and how good. If you come across one that is.
Honestly with all these connectivity changes to like 4g and stuff, i and several other people i know experienced connectivity problems despite having 3g/4g supporting device.
I guess it would be interesting
Clive this week we had a guy at our metal shop that got ordered by a boss to wash a wall behind a grinding machine that was covered in metal dust. the wall had a distribution board for 3phase 660V? in it, and the guy washed it with a garden style hose. i was 200meters away when the lights and machines in the whole manufacturing plant flicked and burned off with our various safety sirens going off in the chemical department with red light strobbing everywhere. the whole wall turned black and a 2inch air hose with 300psi air bursted right above it at the same time. the sound was so powerful you had trouble breathing coming close to the zone when it happened.
i wish you would have been there. the thing is nobody was hurt. it was like a miracle we didn't believe it and kept searching for the guy that was washing the wall. we searched in the dark for 1hour we were sure he was dead. i also got another story in witch the gouvernement workers that were blasting rocks the other side of the street used to much explosive and knocked a metal lamp post down unto a telephone pole (it only touched the telephone wires). then they brought the lamp post to us and asked us to fix it for them. this is all in Canada, i know it is surprising me too.
Aww! You didn't video the resulting carnage.
I came here to escape the forest, that is growing in my subscribtion feed (not that it is a bad thing)
@bigclivedotcom where did you get that magnifying glass thing....very handy!!!!!
EBay sells a range of illuminated magnifiers.
Hey Clive, on my electric longboard the battery case/charging board broke a wire and instead of throwing it away rather give it to you because I’m curious how it works and the quality
If Clive doesn’t see this how could I have a better chance of getting ahold of him
I jumped through this one an thought you was unwrapping toffee,would you get a zap from that capacitor if you put it in your mouth
Sometimes castings have machining marks from marks in the moulds made by the machines that made them, if you get what I mean...
Yeah this has to be die cast aluminium, the machining marks are on the die. You get the same of plastic quite often from injection moulded parts.
And you can easily change the lenses for another beam pattern..
Hey Clive, I have a led lamp on my ebike, and for some reason, the light is really dim, and the housing gets cooking hot. Wrong voltage? How can I diagnose it? The housing gets hot because there is a massive resistor in there which starts getting reaally hot.
It's possible that something has shorted out.
What is captin tape actually for?
It's actually "Kapton" tape. It sure sounds like captain tape thanks to google for correcting me for this. :)
A rather apt video, considering that it's tonight we put the clocks back (though some might say that after six months, they can't remember where the clocks came from in the first place!). I like to watch Clive dismantling a lamp of some sort, it's so educational, even strangely cathartic. It can be a bit disconcerting, though, when someone watching over your shoulder asks "Is that seven 'wots' ot seven 'whats'......?" 😊 👻
How did you figure out it would be a 350mA power supply? I have a bunch of similar bulbs (but they're 15W) that had their power module fried from a voltage surge and a I'm trying to figure out how to replace the power supplies and finding it tricky to figure out the current and voltage...
Most of the lamp that use the classic 1W/3W LED in this one use a power supply module rated for a current limited supply os between 250 to 350mA and a voltage in the region of 3V per LED. You can easily find the standard power supply modules on eBay.
@@bigclivedotcom thanks. The lamps I have are a little different, one type has 16 LED chips (8x2 in parallel) and the other has 34 chips (17x2 in parallel), both originally consumed 15W.
@bigclivedotcom With the PAR56 bulbs now no longer in production, has this effected any venues you work at? I think the venue I work at in Australia has hovered up every last PAR56 bulb in the southern hemisphere for spares.
We've been testing LED replacements for PAR64's, but none of them remotely match the intensity or beam shape. We have a stock, but should get more.
@@bigclivedotcom do you use 110v bulbs on your 240v supply? We do here and so every electrician who looks at the wiring is perplexed and doesn't understand how it works (can't say I do either).
Do you think you'll do a requiem video on the passing of PAR56/64 bulbs? I had no idea the extent they have been used, not just in theatre till I looked it up!
@@NoceboX There are a few ways 120V lamps are used on 240V. One is to use them in series pairs. We normally use 240V lamps.
@@bigclivedotcom yeah, the series pairs is what we have, I believe, which means when one goes, usually the other pops too. Like you we are trying to find LED replacements, with one possible substitute found.
Got a package today...….. now doing a lot of shopping...…. cant decide what colours to use. many thanks great video blow stuff up pls
D'ya think the housing is a sintered moulding Clive?
Similar thought here too! - I was thinking "Machined mould, and die-cast alloy picking up the machined markings from the mould".
It could be. It has an interesting surface texture.
I love how the manufacturer minds the environment by reuse his candy wrappers. Pitty this one was not cleaned thoroughly. It seems a bit sticky @4:22
i have a question for a mr clive (sorry ill try my best) was rewireing a thermostat. such an old crappy design i shorted it on my ground when closeing the box.. question being, is it posable that i only tripped half the breaker (where i am its 120+120=240v) lol 5pm on a friday and the pannel is so f*&^ing burried i couldent go look. sorry if its a dumb question, its just the curiosity bugging me
It's possible that the system the thermostat is on has a control circuit fuse or breaker that's blown.
@@bigclivedotcom cool thanks man! ill have a look on monday
Aloha ,
Would like to buy a set of the drivers you use, I bought the isesamo spudger set and like your driver set too🤗
It's a common set on eBay.
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=8+in+1+precision&_sacat=0&_sop=15&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1
Could you replace them with 3w chips, put in a new power supply and make a 21w led lamp? Would be a bit bright!
The leds will burn out due to excessive heat.
Maybe a fan behind the heatsink
I ordered a couple of these after watching your video Clive. They arrived today and I wondered if your lamp was similar... When I shake them gently I hear most of the collimating lenses rattle slightly. That means they're not applying pressure between the aluminium LED PCB and the heatsink - which is a bit of a worry in a lamp I'd hoped to be able to keep running for ages (and out of the landfill*).
If I had access to a lathe I'd cut back the face that the front plate sits on a little and apply more pressure that way. However I don't and if I were to pay an engineering shop to do it the price would be crazy. Any thoughts? Cheers.
[*] As the heatsink seems up to handling a few watts of heat nicely I've also ordered some 3w LED 'beads' and was going to leave the original driver in place but swap the LEDs to some that should, in theory, last much much longer as they'll be under-driven. However going by the rattle of the lenses the PCB is largely held in place by thermal goop rather than positive pressure. Not good when the goop dries out.
That's unfortunately a common thing with these and the smaller GU10 lamps.
@@bigclivedotcom Ok thanks. I'll see if I can sort something out. Cheers.
@@bigclivedotcom For a minute there I thought I had the answer - the 3 holes in the PCB and the threads for the back... However the PCB holes are 20mm centre-to-centre and the screws that hold the back on are 30mm. Damn!
That said though I might drill some 20mm c2c holes through the flat part of the heatsink and use M3 screws and nuts (and soft washers) to positively affix the PCB to the heatsink. Thanks again.
The flat part of the heatsink that the PCB sits on is extremely thin for a heat-path to such a chunky heatsink. It's only just over 1mm thick. It's better than a lot of designs I've seen but still disappointing. Time to break out the drill and M3 screws / nuts / insulating washers...
OK done but I made a rookie mistake. I lined up the holes for the wires perfectly before drilling the screw holes when what I should have done was align the PCB so that the cover screw holes were exactly between two LEDs. I'll drill more holes in the cover that align with the screw holes rather than remove even more material from the heat-path. Oh and I know I didn't drill the 3 holes that were 20mm c2c equidistant to each other - I decided to go with one hole that was further away from the power wires.
ruclips.net/video/LnQBcpPc-f4/видео.html
Excuse the heavy breathing, it's my first youtube video!
Hi Clive has the dodgy LIR2032 charger arrived and is it worth a video ?
Yes it has. I'll add it to the pile of video material.
great ! I know you have many ideas/material but now I know it'll be in a video one day :)
Is there any led lamp that has a really good p.f ?
Yes. You do get near-unity LED lamps (especially in street lighting) but it adds a lot to the cost.
Philips "True Force" LED lighting - Has a PF of 95, and I'm very impressed by that! But as Clive says, street lighting and not cheap.
I have a milk crate full of these not sure what to do with them tho
I had a problem with a UV led bulb i got, it seemed to have burned the plastic lens on the LED's, they went a brownish tinge, I seemed to fixed it tho, the plastic lens broke off the LED's so easy but the rubber underneath stayed in place
The UV wavelength may have degraded the plastic.
@@bigclivedotcom Yeah i think so, not sure. They might of overheated a bit aswell
Damn thats another £10 spent on Ebay, why do I come here and watch Clive I am never going to use the thing, damn, damn, Damn :-)
How to repair fuse smd led balaf
Where can I buy your screwdriver?
It's a common type called an 8 in 1 or 9 in 1 precision driver.
My capacitor is rated 6.3uf at 400v I have a 400v but 10uf capacitor. Can I use it as a replacement?
Yes. That would work.
@@bigclivedotcom ur to blame if me house blows lol thanks
no guarantees :)
An appliance with a metal housing would be earthed, but unfortunately there's no way to do that with a lamp that has only neutral and live connections. It's worrying that the housing could become live.
And I though PAR30 meant Photosynthetically Active Radiation 30...and then what do you need a plant cultivation lamp in an office :D .
Ok then, lets see you come up with a set of turquoise lamps :P
Best buy them up before they're all gone then... :D
I think the housing is not machined, just a precision casting.
A busted one would be a good base for an Arc Reactor prop.
It's often viable to buy completely new products just for the components in prop making.
Screw holes machined but I'm guessing any 'machining marks' were in the pattern they used to make the mould !
Yes, wouldn't it likely be that heated metal powder in a mold technique rather than cast liquid metal or machined stock?
@@williamdavies_ewill Would the result not be the same ?
Yes. I was agreeing with you. Sorry for being unclear. I thought Clive believed there was a liklihood of machining of the heatsink edge of the produced part rather than the mold it was created in.
@@williamdavies_ewill Either way, I've not come across a heated powdered metal version of casting. I have doubts about that with aluminium as I believe the oxide coating makes thin or particulate difficult to cast due to the amount of slag it creates.
ruclips.net/video/kCYExRtrnTY/видео.html You can do powdered metal (PM) forming with aluminium power. This company will even provide a process to reduce material costs by adding voids.
Awww, Clive, this lamp's body is getting connected to neutral OR live, depending on the wiring in one's house…
The back section is silver coloured plastic and not conductive.
@@bigclivedotcom oh, I see clearly now. Thank you for pointing this out!
so thinking of rewireing my old halogen lamp (500W bulb), but dont know if can get the same amount of light from LEDs.. one of these days.
I'd like to go back to gas lighting. #reliability.
@@millomweb i like it bright.. the only drawback to the 500W is 1) heat... and 2) watching the electric needle "spin" ;) in fact here in the .us the light i have was recalled as too many people were knocking it over and catching fire... oops (tall tall light)
@@MrScotttraynor I've 5' T12 fluorescent tubes in the kitchen (2) 65W a piece. Superb light source - but can't get replacement tubes for them now.
@@millomweb i have 2 additional 500W halogen "Bulbs" and 2 250W ones that are still n the packaging... just have been pondering.
@Matt Quinn no was indoors light.. its rare now.. but i loved it.. ihave to rewire it anyways, as the cord, meh.. just wondering. they were recalled least 20+ years ago (think volentary) due to be knocked over and catching fire
Got myself a "10W" (I'll see) one just now. If the lenses don't perform well I may just take them out and bareass the LEDs or put a clear piece of plastic over them. I'm planning it for a location you need a ladder to get to so fingers aren't going to be an accident without a Bill Engvall's Here's Your Sign setup.
As for the one you have here Clive, that thing is amazingly serviceable. You can super easily get the LEDs (and fast too, due20150801 for ex. is under 1 wk but more expensive than others), easily get the multi-LED boards for the LEDs in packs of 3-5 up to a zillion, and the power supplies (the real kick to the wallet of all of them) for like a few bucks up to $10 max. Oh yeah and heatsink compound for pretty cheap in huge tubes as well, just don't expect it to perform well.
If you were determined and patient (or planned ahead) you could probably keep that light running for AGES as that chunk of metal will never really wear out. As for ventilation you could (carefully) drill holes in the base section to allow at least passive airflow as there isn't room for a fan.
The LED driver modules are common on eBay for just a dollar or two. Here's a 240mA one (they're usually 350mA for series 1W LEDs).
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Constant-Current-240mA-Lighting-Transformer-LED-Current-Driver-Power-Supply/293224402353?hash=item4445894db1%3Am%3Am4BxypBOUgTka1tbKKa_4fA&LH_BIN=1
@@bigclivedotcom Must have had the higher wattage power supplies in mind then. Dang those are sooo cheap.
There are also lenses on ebay (aliexpress, or similar) of different angles so you can choose... i leave here an example link:
es.aliexpress.com/item/32906618438.html
Got the bulb and tested it. Typical Chinese 10w (~4w actual) that I will be adjusting up to 10w as soon as the power supply comes in with a LED swap also. The heatsink contact ring could stand to be thicker but otherwise it looks like it could handle it.
I think I'm gonna head to eBee and buy myself some captain tape!
Kapton tape. Often with a slightly fudged name to avoid copyright.
@@bigclivedotcom Hehe, yes I gotcha, it was a weak pun I was making. 😊😁
30 probably means 30' degrees beam divergence.
Hmm machining for a cheap light? Maybe sintered metal?
I guess bigclive is doing his part by suggesting potential hacks to not dump such repairable electronics. No trees here.
There's no shortage of trees here. And they keep planting more.
I just discovered that Clive has O.C.D. And that's OK. 3:05
I wonder what Clive wiped his tool on...
probably the curtains
I bet he just gave it a good lick. (Now try to get THAT out of your mind!)
Lol like the name landfill led
How do I post something for you fella, the parcel would of course include sweeties
try his website > www.bigclive.com ?
People like us, the electric people
Fulllllllll bridge rectifier
How Its Made - 1364 Surge Arresters
Completely off topic I know, but Big Clive watchers might like a RUclips vid I just watched.
replace with 40W LED and change the PS
Toilet roll, Clive.
Put one next to your workbench to wipe the schmoo off your tool.
cast aluminium , but poor mold . and poor metal
at 7:45 you can see how gross are the burrs ...
oh thank fuck a video that isn't about trees
First!!! 🤘🏻😎🤘🏻
Have you ever thought about TREES? 🌳
Here on the Isle of Man they have lots of trees and an ongoing planting project.
David Bergmann
I hadn’t thought about trees until I saw my You Tube sub feed this evening, Having not seen any of the videos yet, I don’t have a clue what it’s about other than the environmentalists freaking out.
Seaweed produces a *major* quantity of plant based oxygen and cleans water.. Why don’t they plant kelp?
Turn it into a grow lamp
They do red and blue versions for that.
Chonky Heatsink
Photosynthetically active radiation, 420 nm - 720 nm . Sorry, just had to clarify that. Thanks for the vid....
I was torn between hoping he would lick the heatsink compound and tell us what it tastes like and wiping it into his beard and continuing.
Taste like "Shock Tarts"
Many things have been said about the end of the world. However real electronic engineers secretly know the end of the world will come when absolutely everything has got gooped up with a very thin layer of heat sink compound.
The end of the world will come when Clive announces there is nothing left to take apart.
@@bren106 Ah the end of the world according to You Tube. Interesting concept.
oh, no trees in this video O_o #teamtrees
People like us hey?
I hate this lamp...I hate the influx of Edison screw lights into the UK market for one reason- nobody seems to want, or is allowed to sell Edison screw fittings/roses.
Which means you're often forced/encouraged to use a bayonet to Edison screw adapter, which are frankly, unsafe deathtraps.
That metallised plastic is contiguous from the outer screw to the heatsink, and is creating a conductive path from the screw to your fingers.
In the countries where people are using Edison screw fittings, this isn't that big of a deal, as the outer screw is wired up to neutral for obvious reasons.
But in the UK? With an adapter? That's a fifty fifty on whether the surface you're holding as you screw it in is connected to live.
Honestly those adapters should probably be banned for general sale, They're too dangerous in the hands of someone not well versed enough to ensure polarity
Does that "metallised plastic" conduct electricity to that extent? I have a couple of these ordered (but they won't be here for weeks) and live in NZ where we also use bayonet lamps so I use adapters. I might dismantle before using and scrape off the coating on the plastic if mine are similarly coated.
@@Shaun.Stephens i don't trust it, wouldn't be surprised if it showed zero on a multimeter but passed current under higher voltage- it is after all a thin coating of metal., would need a megger/ high voltage multimeter to be sure, so I feel caution is warranted. honestly, the better solution is to make sure the adapter is wired up properly in the first place by measuring the voltage between the screw and ground ( should be close ). Just make sure the meter is definitely in the AC voltage range/ probes are in the right sockets on the meter, you don't touch the tips, and most importantly, if you're not comfortable around high voltages, find someone who is to do it for you.
Sorry if I came across as overly harsh/alarmist :), the adapters can be used safely, but require a little care to be safe during installation.
You always have to be careful when merging things from two different electrical systems/codes, most are safe, but implement that safety in different ways, and taking something from one system to another, it can suddenly lack the other things that made it safe, and becomes dangerous even if it wasn't originally
@@AngDavies Thanks for the reply. I see Clive said in another comment / reply that the plastic isn't conductive but I hear ya about how seemingly non or semi-conductive things can conduct high voltage. I too dislike how Edison screw has become ubiquitous, I've been using adapters for years now and have even changed a few fittings in the house to ES. I'm careful about making sure there's no exposed metal, at least within easy reach.
I'm fine with mains voltage, I've been wiring up my own stuff for decades (and repairing my own appliances etc. when they fail wherever possible) and only had a few tingles. I used to buy lamps with B22 fittings from China when I could but found that a lot of them have poorly-secured bayonet pins and they often fall out making the thing useless. So it's a case of damned if you do...
Cheers.
tip wiping mmm grow up :)