Pulled the trigger and got a kuda simply because of watching your videos and I’m in love with it! Thanks for all the great info Jeff! Keep up the good work
Just to note, the MM Switch will work with the Scotty glue on pads. Make sure to use the short screws included with the Switch. Another great video Jeff. :)
Good note about the length of the screws. We've had more than a couple people put holes in their inflatables. We've actually updated the design of the switch pad for this exact resson. It now has a spot for a plastic piece (included) that gives the screw something to bottom out on (that isn't the inflatable).
It was stated that GT175 16" track was used for the 1st part of the track installed. After the entire track for the foot control steering was completed it appears that the last piece of the track is shorter. Am I seeing that wrong or would that last piece of track possibly be GT175 12" to complete the install?
I wonder if you could put a torqueedo on a Seaeagle Explorer using something similar. I just don’t know if the shaft on the torqueedo would be long enough.
It needs to have the rigid hull of a higher PSI drop stitch flooring hull. Otherwise they fold under the torque. Sea Eagle does a lot of good packages with the Torqeedo Travel motor.
Jeff, I know this video has been out a bit, but wanted to caution folks to NOT use Loctite on those Switch plates, it will degrade the plastic!!! I just ruined all 5 of mine and had to turn around and order new ones. I believe it even says in the packaging not to use Loctite now, from what the folks at Yakattack told me. Just wanted to make sure y'all knew!
I’ve heard that Chris. I believe that it can be applied, carefully to ONLY the threads. The problem is that the tubes of Loc-Tite requires the user to cut the tip off of the applicator, and where it’s cut results in highly variable rates of dispensing. This results in the stuff going all over the place. You don’t need much, but it is necessary.
Do you think this bracket would work on a Hobie iTrek 11? I'm also wondering if you or anybody you know has considered mounting this in a universal Hobie cartridge -- there would be no need for the steering mech just a straight mount into the cartridge with a line to the power supply. I'm currently running a Hasswing 20lb mounted into a universal cartridge that fits the iTrek 11 and it awesome but very low powered. thanks for all of your awesome videos!
@thelittlestuff building my nrs pike currently and was wondering is it possible to buy just the foot control kit and if so where would you suggest getting it from?
Can you leave the motor mount plate on the Yak when you fold it back into the bag? I was hesitant at getting a stern mount because it's more involved but worry a side mount will cut into the side bladder
How does the nrs kuda vs nrs pike compare to other inflatables you’ve tried or owned? Looking for something light weight I can store in a small apartment.
In installing the mighty mount switch on the side pontoons have you had any problems with them cracking at the corners? I have a kuda 126 and every time I put the switch on there they end up cracking at the corners where they are bolted on. The pad itself on the pontoon has a curve to it once the pontoon is inflated and it seems that the switch Mount plastic is too brittle to form to this curve or perhaps I’m over tightening but I don’t think so. Just wondering if this has been a problem before I buy 4 more for the pontoons
I’ve heard that Loc-Tite on that plastic can degrade the integrity. You absolutely need Loc-Tite on the threads of the hardware holding the Mighty Mount Switch to the SwitchPad. But excess drips of the Loc-Tite on that black plastic degrade it and it breaks easily. I have broken a few from just plain abuse. Pulling the boat down a steep embankment and slamming the Torqeedo mount into a log broke one of them.
Awesome video! Thank you for creating this! Been thinking about adding tracks to my inflatable via MightyMount Switch mounts. What length of MightyBolts are you using for securing the GearTrac and MightyMounts? 1-1/2” or 2”?
I have seen several of your videos where you use HH-66 adhesive. Are you happy with the long term results of this adhesive? The reason I ask is because I want to add Yakattack Switchpads to my NRS Star Rival Fish kayak. Yakattack recommends Stabond adhesive for this application in their product videos. I contacted NRS and they recommend Clifton PVC adhesive with the accelerator. Both products cost substantially more than HH-66. Since you have real world experience with HH-66, I would like to get your opinion on how well it works.
I figured the HH-66 was probably good stuff, since you are attaching a Torqeedo to an inflatable kayak with it. 😀 I did follow up with NRS and they said that both Clifton and HH-66 will work fine for this application. Thanks for the invaluable info you produce on your channel. I have really learned a lot from you.
Is there ample space on the deck. I’m a fly fisherman and am extremely interested in your setup on the nrs. Also interested in the osprey but I feel it’s a bit large for a river.
Thank you for bringing this up. I know the loc tite degradation to the YakAttack SwitchPad to be a real issue. I’ve not experienced it, but YakAttack had a bunch of customers have this issue and figured it out. I had been super careful to only get Loc Tite on the threads, which has worked for me. A second issue that I did experience was not being able to remove the hardware, and the square nut inside the flexible mount just started spinning. Even after I clamped down on the flexible mount and square nut, the force applied only chewed up the inside. So, the last boat I rigged I tried using AquaSeal. I need to put that rig on the road and see if the consistent loosening of hardware is prevented by AquaSeal on the threads. The other option is to keep a pile of the right length hardware on hand. It’s a strange length, and if you use a bolt that’s too long, you will run it through the hull. A puncture in that spot is all but impossible to repair. We added a small metal plate to the bottom on the ones that go on the Innovative Sportsman Ospreys. That was to provide a preventative hard bottom to prevent puncture, should someone replace a lost bolt with one that is too long.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Pulled the trigger and got a kuda simply because of watching your videos and I’m in love with it! Thanks for all the great info Jeff! Keep up the good work
Tyler, you will love it! Make sure you get some Tear Aid Type B, a K-Pump Mini and some AquaSeal.
Just to note, the MM Switch will work with the Scotty glue on pads. Make sure to use the short screws included with the Switch. Another great video Jeff. :)
Right on! The Scotty and YakAttack bases have the same footprint. Thanks!
Good note about the length of the screws. We've had more than a couple people put holes in their inflatables. We've actually updated the design of the switch pad for this exact resson. It now has a spot for a plastic piece (included) that gives the screw something to bottom out on (that isn't the inflatable).
I did it on my Sea Eagle Fish Skiff 16. It holds air after a rather difficult patch job.
It was stated that GT175 16" track was used for the 1st part of the track installed. After the entire track for the foot control steering was completed it appears that the last piece of the track is shorter. Am I seeing that wrong or would that last piece of track possibly be GT175 12" to complete the install?
It was probably 12 inch track. Can’t recall.
I really enjoyed this video
That part unlocks the rigging on the stealth, shallow draft and stability of inflatable kayak fishing.
I wonder if you could put a torqueedo on a Seaeagle Explorer using something similar. I just don’t know if the shaft on the torqueedo would be long enough.
It needs to have the rigid hull of a higher PSI drop stitch flooring hull. Otherwise they fold under the torque. Sea Eagle does a lot of good packages with the Torqeedo Travel motor.
Jeff, I know this video has been out a bit, but wanted to caution folks to NOT use Loctite on those Switch plates, it will degrade the plastic!!! I just ruined all 5 of mine and had to turn around and order new ones. I believe it even says in the packaging not to use Loctite now, from what the folks at Yakattack told me. Just wanted to make sure y'all knew!
I’ve heard that Chris. I believe that it can be applied, carefully to ONLY the threads. The problem is that the tubes of Loc-Tite requires the user to cut the tip off of the applicator, and where it’s cut results in highly variable rates of dispensing. This results in the stuff going all over the place. You don’t need much, but it is necessary.
Do you think this bracket would work on a Hobie iTrek 11?
I'm also wondering if you or anybody you know has considered mounting this in a universal Hobie cartridge -- there would be no need for the steering mech just a straight mount into the cartridge with a line to the power supply.
I'm currently running a Hasswing 20lb mounted into a universal cartridge that fits the iTrek 11 and it awesome but very low powered.
thanks for all of your awesome videos!
It should work on any inflatable.
@thelittlestuff building my nrs pike currently and was wondering is it possible to buy just the foot control kit and if so where would you suggest getting it from?
Innovative Sportsman sells it.
Can you leave the motor mount plate on the Yak when you fold it back into the bag? I was hesitant at getting a stern mount because it's more involved but worry a side mount will cut into the side bladder
I just leave mine inflated.
How does the nrs kuda vs nrs pike compare to other inflatables you’ve tried or owned? Looking for something light weight I can store in a small apartment.
I chose the Kuda over the Pike because it’s lower profile and less subject to the wind. Put an anchor Wizard on it!
@@TheLittleStuffdo you have an inflatable kayak you recommend for those who are limited on space? Light weight enough to put car top?
In installing the mighty mount switch on the side pontoons have you had any problems with them cracking at the corners? I have a kuda 126 and every time I put the switch on there they end up cracking at the corners where they are bolted on. The pad itself on the pontoon has a curve to it once the pontoon is inflated and it seems that the switch Mount plastic is too brittle to form to this curve or perhaps I’m over tightening but I don’t think so. Just wondering if this has been a problem before I buy 4 more for the pontoons
I’ve heard that Loc-Tite on that plastic can degrade the integrity. You absolutely need Loc-Tite on the threads of the hardware holding the Mighty Mount Switch to the SwitchPad. But excess drips of the Loc-Tite on that black plastic degrade it and it breaks easily.
I have broken a few from just plain abuse. Pulling the boat down a steep embankment and slamming the Torqeedo mount into a log broke one of them.
Awesome video! Thank you for creating this! Been thinking about adding tracks to my inflatable via MightyMount Switch mounts.
What length of MightyBolts are you using for securing the GearTrac and MightyMounts? 1-1/2” or 2”?
Either length T bolts will work.
@@TheLittleStuff thank you for confirming! Much appreciated 🙏
I have seen several of your videos where you use HH-66 adhesive. Are you happy with the long term results of this adhesive?
The reason I ask is because I want to add Yakattack Switchpads to my NRS Star Rival Fish kayak.
Yakattack recommends Stabond adhesive for this application in their product videos. I contacted NRS and they recommend Clifton PVC adhesive with the accelerator. Both products cost substantially more than HH-66.
Since you have real world experience with HH-66, I would like to get your opinion on how well it works.
HH-66 works long term.
I figured the HH-66 was probably good stuff, since you are attaching a Torqeedo to an inflatable kayak with it. 😀
I did follow up with NRS and they said that both Clifton and HH-66 will work fine for this application.
Thanks for the invaluable info you produce on your channel. I have really learned a lot from you.
You want to build mine once i get everything Jeff
Nope, I have my hands full, but I am “on call” to help you if you get stuck!
Are the foot controls a yak attack product or is it a custom piece you’ve created
They are part of the foot control steering kit by Innovative Sportsman.
@@TheLittleStuff thank tou
Is there ample space on the deck. I’m a fly fisherman and am extremely interested in your setup on the nrs. Also interested in the osprey but I feel it’s a bit large for a river.
This video contains bad information. Not even the tiniest amount of loctite should be used! I learned this from my own mistake.
Is there an alternative?
@ Yes, check and tighten the screws periodically if needed.
@@Beyondthebite2024 sure, but that goes unsaid. I'm curious if there's an alternative thread lock product that doesn't degrade the plastic.
@@therivergiveth I don't know, man. I just know I need to replace five mounts because of it. And I used only a tiny bit; it crumbled the plastic.
Thank you for bringing this up. I know the loc tite degradation to the YakAttack SwitchPad to be a real issue. I’ve not experienced it, but YakAttack had a bunch of customers have this issue and figured it out. I had been super careful to only get Loc Tite on the threads, which has worked for me. A second issue that I did experience was not being able to remove the hardware, and the square nut inside the flexible mount just started spinning. Even after I clamped down on the flexible mount and square nut, the force applied only chewed up the inside.
So, the last boat I rigged I tried using AquaSeal. I need to put that rig on the road and see if the consistent loosening of hardware is prevented by AquaSeal on the threads. The other option is to keep a pile of the right length hardware on hand. It’s a strange length, and if you use a bolt that’s too long, you will run it through the hull. A puncture in that spot is all but impossible to repair. We added a small metal plate to the bottom on the ones that go on the Innovative Sportsman Ospreys. That was to provide a preventative hard bottom to prevent puncture, should someone replace a lost bolt with one that is too long.