This video is absolutely brilliant just had someone come round and tell me that I needed a new boiler. This video guided me through and finding two problems: 1. The condecate trap was completely blocked 2. Flame detection lead was shorting to earth. Honestly absolutel legend!!!
Excellent video. Thanks a ton. Unlike some other youtubers this gentlemen shows exact steps in all the details how to tackle LF fault on Ideal Icos/Isar boilers.
Hi Tony, thank you very much for your tips in this video, You're a life saver! It's been snowing and freezing here and I would have frozen to death waiting for the "flame detection electrode" to come due to the L.F fault on me ISAR ideal HE24. Tried your trick of cleaning the electrode and now she's sprung back to life! 🙂🙂🙂🙏🙏🙏
Fantastic help thanks, followed your advice, took off the condensate unit and pipe, it was blocked solid with black and gray calcium, had to scratch it all out with a screwdriver and wash it all out. Also had to poke up the hole where it mounts in the heat exchanger and suddenly out poured around two litres of gray water. Reassembled, reset the boiler and it stared first time! A little bit fiddly but Saved me a fortune, thank you.
Thank you Tony your video was excellent and allowed me to diagnose and rectify a condensate trap that was totally blocked with silt and preventing the boiler from firing. About a litre of condense water was backed up in the heat exchanger which released into a waiting bucket on removal of the trap. This got us back running over a super cold period in Dec 2022 in UK when all available Heating Engineers were overrun with call out work. The trap was beyond recovery as it is a sealed unit and could not be cleaned of the solid silt build up, so a replacment part was fortunaely found at the plumbers merchant on a saturday morning just before closing. Excellent and clear run through of the common faults and how to rectify. Very much appreciated.
hey we're currently trying to grow our Facebook group and would love you to join Tony and the team using this link, Tony will be available to answer all your questions directly facebook.com/groups/167070231326174 we will also add this link above.
Hi Tony, happy New year. Thank you for such an excellent tutorial video. Absolutely fantastic detail. I have a Ideal Icos boiler and the boiler is not showing any error codes. The hot water is working fine , however the radiators are not coming on. I have done some research on the issue, and it is most likely to be the Diverter Valve that is blocked/old or needs changing. Can you perhaps do a video tutorial on how to change the Diverter Valve on an Ideal Icos boiler. Thank you. Bilal
That was really interesting. I am currently trying to fix a Icos HE15 set to heat hot water. The pump and valve to divert through a hot water cylinder are in the bathroom. I thought the PCB had failed, a black one and was sent an orange one with same part number. I copied the 1,2,3 jumper settings on it and switched on to get 1 HE HE HE and so on. I put the old PCB back and got a display of 1, then 0. Sometimes it will show E or HE. The boiler works when it feels like it. It had new ignition electrodes but I might change them again and clean the flame sensor and condensate trap. What I get now is the boiler either works for a random time and goes HE or LF, or it tries to fire, does a few clicks , and either fires and stops with HE, or it fires and runs for a bit then stops. It is driving me mad! The orange circuit was from ebay and refuses to work, so the company keeps telling me to try different jumpers, even though it's not in the correct instructions. They even put a note saying if the boiler shows HE, to call them! So I am about to give up and can not find anyone in the NW who will repair or fit a new one for 6months. They don't want the work.
Thank you! hey, we're currently growing our Facebook group, it has lots more content there and i'll be there to answer any questions you may have join using this link facebook.com/groups/167070231326174
Hi Tony, Happy New year. Thank you for such an excellent video. I have a Ideal Icos boiler and the hot water is working, however, the radiators are not coming on. The boiler is not showing any error codes. I have done a little research and I believe the problem is the Diverter Valve. I would like to ask your professional advice. Perhaps, you could do a video tutorial on how to change the Diverter Valve. Thank you Bilal
Hi Tony, thanks for this video. My local plumber gave me 2 options, pcb and service £650, or new boiler £1850. I followed your instructions and it was a dirty flame electrode sensor. Thank you, you saved me a fortune 👍
Hello tony I have Icos HE12 with a line and dot error code showing. I have replaced the PCB but still showing same error code - boiler won’t try and ignite any suggestions? Thank you
Hi, Great video by the way. I've got an Ideal Icos HE24 condensing boiler. I recently got the dreaded LF code which was basically stopping the boiler after a few seconds of ignition. Ideal tech support said it was almost definitely the Flame Detection Electrode or PCB. My friend who is a gas safe engineer had some spares from a working second-hand boiler of a similar model (HE18). We switched out the Flame Detection sensor first after checking the wiring and got same fault. Switched out the PCB next and same problem. Also the Trap and all related pipework has been cleaned. Also swapped out the igniter electrode. Burner assembly is fine and clean. We haven't done anything else yet as Ideal are still claiming it must be the Flame Detection sensor or shorted cabling. Question - Is there anything else you can think of that can throw up this error if PCB, Flame Ignition plus Flame Detection sensing are functioning OK? I've got access to all the parts from the other boiler however it's just knowing which bit to tackle next. Many thanks...
@@ARBoilers Many thanks for all your help. The problem was the flame detection lead. My gas engineer had tested it for continuity and it checked out ok. I'm an ex-electrical and mechanical engineer so decided to do my own checks on various components and cabling. With the flame detector connector disconnected from the ecu I checked again the flame detection lead and discovered a resistance of over 5 meg Ohms between earth and the sensor tip On removal of the lead there was 0 ohms between the sensor and earth as you would expect. Conclusion - Somehow the sensor cable has altered its resistive properties in spite of no damage or breaks. I put the multi meter on a low resistance of say 200k and the lead showed full continuity. The nature of how the flame detection circuit works on these Ideal boilers was enough to fool the ecu into thinking no flame was present. I hope this helps other that might experience this strange phenonium.
Thanks! hey we're currently trying to grow our Facebook group and would love you to join Tony and the team using this link, Tony will be available to answer all your questions directly facebook.com/groups/167070231326174 we will also add this link above.
What about the H1 Code theres nothing on youtube about it. My boilers saying H1 looking at the manuel it says thermister so i changed that but no change or the pcb board changed that. No change. Any idea
Our boiler has not worked for 3 weeks. FL error code. The flame goes out in about 3 seconds. Mechanic replaced spark electrode, spark generator, flame detection electrode, two wires underneath, replaced burner. Cleaned the flue. Still not working. He has now ordered the heat exchanger. He will replace that. I'm losing hope.
Thanks! Thank you! hey, we're currently growing our Facebook group, it has lots more content there and i'll be there to answer any questions you may have join using this link facebook.com/groups/167070231326174
@@ARBoilers thanks for that, I've followed all your instructions bar checking the trap as its difficult to get to it. I've ordered a new lead as the insulation has crumbled
hey we're currently trying to grow our Facebook group and would love you to join Tony and the team using this link, Tony will be available to answer all your questions directly facebook.com/groups/167070231326174 we will also add this link above.
hey, we're currently growing our Facebook group, it has lots more content there and i'll be there to answer any questions you may have join using this link facebook.com/groups/167070231326174
hey, we're currently growing our Facebook group, it has lots more content there and i'll be there to answer any questions you may have join using this link facebook.com/groups/167070231326174
Thank you! hey, we're currently growing our Facebook group, it has lots more content there and i'll be there to answer any questions you may have join using this link facebook.com/groups/167070231326174
This video is absolutely brilliant just had someone come round and tell me that I needed a new boiler. This video guided me through and finding two problems:
1. The condecate trap was completely blocked
2. Flame detection lead was shorting to earth.
Honestly absolutel legend!!!
Excellent video. Thanks a ton. Unlike some other youtubers this gentlemen shows exact steps in all the details how to tackle LF fault on Ideal Icos/Isar boilers.
Hi Tony, thank you very much for your tips in this video, You're a life saver! It's been snowing and freezing here and I would have frozen to death waiting for the "flame detection electrode" to come due to the L.F fault on me ISAR ideal HE24. Tried your trick of cleaning the electrode and now she's sprung back to life! 🙂🙂🙂🙏🙏🙏
Fantastic help thanks, followed your advice, took off the condensate unit and pipe, it was blocked solid with black and gray calcium, had to scratch it all out with a screwdriver and wash it all out. Also had to poke up the hole where it mounts in the heat exchanger and suddenly out poured around two litres of gray water. Reassembled, reset the boiler and it stared first time! A little bit fiddly but Saved me a fortune, thank you.
Thank you Tony your video was excellent and allowed me to diagnose and rectify a condensate trap that was totally blocked with silt and preventing the boiler from firing. About a litre of condense water was backed up in the heat exchanger which released into a waiting bucket on removal of the trap. This got us back running over a super cold period in Dec 2022 in UK when all available Heating Engineers were overrun with call out work. The trap was beyond recovery as it is a sealed unit and could not be cleaned of the solid silt build up, so a replacment part was fortunaely found at the plumbers merchant on a saturday morning just before closing. Excellent and clear run through of the common faults and how to rectify. Very much appreciated.
Thank you for your comments. May I ask you subscribe to our channel
Wow mate you’ve got to be the nicest person explaining stuff over on RUclips! you are so appreciated thanks
Thank you for your comments
hey we're currently trying to grow our Facebook group and would love you to join Tony and the team using this link, Tony will be available to answer all your questions directly facebook.com/groups/167070231326174 we will also add this link above.
Hi Tony, happy New year. Thank you for such an excellent tutorial video. Absolutely fantastic detail. I have a Ideal Icos boiler and the boiler is not showing any error codes.
The hot water is working fine , however the radiators are not coming on. I have done some research on the issue, and it is most likely to be the Diverter Valve that is blocked/old or needs changing.
Can you perhaps do a video tutorial on how to change the Diverter Valve on an Ideal Icos boiler. Thank you. Bilal
Thank you so much,I was searching, this help out until service.
What area are you in ? and have replaced the black flame detection lead?
Thank you very much. Great advice.
That was really interesting. I am currently trying to fix a Icos HE15 set to heat hot water. The pump and valve to divert through a hot water cylinder are in the bathroom.
I thought the PCB had failed, a black one and was sent an orange one with same part number. I copied the 1,2,3 jumper settings on it and switched on to get 1 HE HE HE and so on. I put the old PCB back and got a display of 1, then 0. Sometimes it will show E or HE. The boiler works when it feels like it. It had new ignition electrodes but I might change them again and clean the flame sensor and condensate trap.
What I get now is the boiler either works for a random time and goes HE or LF, or it tries to fire, does a few clicks , and either fires and stops with HE, or it fires and runs for a bit then stops.
It is driving me mad!
The orange circuit was from ebay and refuses to work, so the company keeps telling me to try different jumpers, even though it's not in the correct instructions.
They even put a note saying if the boiler shows HE, to call them!
So I am about to give up and can not find anyone in the NW who will repair or fit a new one for 6months. They don't want the work.
Really like your tips especially the check for the spark outside the boiler
I don't think that spark electro will spark just hanging there . It should be grounded ..
Thank you! hey, we're currently growing our Facebook group, it has lots more content there and i'll be there to answer any questions you may have join using this link facebook.com/groups/167070231326174
Hi Tony, Happy New year. Thank you for such an excellent video. I have a Ideal Icos boiler and the hot water is working, however, the radiators are not coming on.
The boiler is not showing any error codes. I have done a little research and I believe the problem is the Diverter Valve. I would like to ask your professional advice.
Perhaps, you could do a video tutorial on how to change the Diverter Valve. Thank you Bilal
Thanks Tony, very good video, going tomorrow to exactly the same boi and the same error code, let you know if I manage to fix it,
Thanks
Thank you for your comments and can you please subscribe to our channel 😊
Extremely helpful and knowledgeable👍🏼
Hi Tony, thanks for this video. My local plumber gave me 2 options, pcb and service £650, or new boiler £1850.
I followed your instructions and it was a dirty flame electrode sensor.
Thank you, you saved me a fortune 👍
Thank you for your comments and can you please subscribe to our channel?
Can the condensate pip be blocked at the outlet end too??
Hello tony I have Icos HE12 with a line and dot error code showing. I have replaced the PCB but still showing same error code - boiler won’t try and ignite any suggestions? Thank you
Hi, Great video by the way.
I've got an Ideal Icos HE24 condensing boiler. I recently got the dreaded LF code which was basically stopping the boiler after a few seconds of ignition. Ideal tech support said it was almost definitely the Flame Detection Electrode or PCB.
My friend who is a gas safe engineer had some spares from a working second-hand boiler of a similar model (HE18). We switched out the Flame Detection sensor first after checking the wiring and got same fault. Switched out the PCB next and same problem. Also the Trap and all related pipework has been cleaned. Also swapped out the igniter electrode. Burner assembly is fine and clean. We haven't done anything else yet as Ideal are still claiming it must be the Flame Detection sensor or shorted cabling.
Question - Is there anything else you can think of that can throw up this error if PCB, Flame Ignition plus Flame Detection sensing are functioning OK? I've got access to all the parts from the other boiler however it's just knowing which bit to tackle next.
Many thanks...
Its either a flame detection lead or did you check the insulation pads have not fell inside the burner section?
@@ARBoilers Many thanks for all your help. The problem was the flame detection lead. My gas engineer had tested it for continuity and it checked out ok.
I'm an ex-electrical and mechanical engineer so decided to do my own checks on various components and cabling. With the flame detector connector disconnected from the ecu I checked again the flame detection lead and discovered a resistance of over 5 meg Ohms between earth and the sensor tip On removal of the lead there was 0 ohms between the sensor and earth as you would expect.
Conclusion - Somehow the sensor cable has altered its resistive properties in spite of no damage or breaks. I put the multi meter on a low resistance of say 200k and the lead showed full continuity. The nature of how the flame detection circuit works on these Ideal boilers was enough to fool the ecu into thinking no flame was present. I hope this helps other that might experience this strange phenonium.
Thanks! hey we're currently trying to grow our Facebook group and would love you to join Tony and the team using this link, Tony will be available to answer all your questions directly facebook.com/groups/167070231326174 we will also add this link above.
Amazing Video
Thanks a lot for great explanations
Thanks
What about the H1 Code theres nothing on youtube about it. My boilers saying H1 looking at the manuel it says thermister so i changed that but no change or the pcb board changed that. No change. Any idea
Hi never seen this myself best call Ideal technical department
Our boiler has not worked for 3 weeks. FL error code. The flame goes out in about 3 seconds.
Mechanic replaced spark electrode, spark generator, flame detection electrode, two wires underneath, replaced burner. Cleaned the flue. Still not working. He has now ordered the heat exchanger. He will replace that. I'm losing hope.
Don't change the heat exchanger. it's more likely to be the pcb
Another fine video...
Thanks! Thank you! hey, we're currently growing our Facebook group, it has lots more content there and i'll be there to answer any questions you may have join using this link facebook.com/groups/167070231326174
Hi, how does the lead attatch to the electrode, is it push on or unscrew etc?
Its a push on type
@@ARBoilers thanks for that, I've followed all your instructions bar checking the trap as its difficult to get to it. I've ordered a new lead as the insulation has crumbled
hey we're currently trying to grow our Facebook group and would love you to join Tony and the team using this link, Tony will be available to answer all your questions directly facebook.com/groups/167070231326174 we will also add this link above.
Thank you for your comments and can you please subscribe to our channel
Could the fan not working cause the LF code?
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What's an H F code
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It could be the overheat thermostat on the top right on the flow pipe. Also, can you please subscribe to our channel
Ok try that
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Boss tips
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No
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