Brilliant! I'm not planning on doing this myself, but my car is in the shop and is having new/refurbished injectors fitted and it's nice to be able to see exactly what they're talking about!
Great Tutorial! Cleaned up my carbon using different methods. First Walnut shells but I ended up buying the wrong shells (12Grit) Coarse and it would clog up the Blaster. Then Berryman Chemical Dip/Carb Cleaner, very time consuming, while waiting for chemicals to work, I was able to exchange the coarse for Fine grit (24) and was able to clean all the valves in an hour. The Portable Blaster at Harbor freight was $30 and the 25lbs of Walnut Shells was $25. A lot cheaper then the Dealership.
did you use the red media blaster from harbor freight, if so, what nozzle did you use to reach into the valve? it seems like the stock nozzle will be too short.
That video was so informative. I never knew that the new style "direct injection" injectors had to use a special tool to seat the new seals. This kind of sponsored tools is great because u wouldnt want to take on a job that requires you to remove the injectors and not be able to get them back in correctly. Also you guys did a great job explaining and showing all the pieces in the kit and how to use it. Great job!
This kind of content is what keeps you, Charles, at the top level of VW/Audi content creators. Your professionalism is paramount and although i can be critical of some videos at times, overall you have a great sense of what your views want to see and learn.
Hey bud first off thanks a ton for all these videos, it's a great help as a tutorial as well as confidence booster to be able to see exactly how all these tasks are performed. Just wanted to note, my bosch injector seal kit says to install the plastic grey rings with the flat side toward the blue rubber o-ring, which I see is opposite as you have them in this video.
Thanks! This video was exactly what i needed and while i bought new fuel injectors, i still tightened the silicone seal near the nozzle and really appreciate the help!
I had repeated failure of the blue seal on one injector on my V12 direct injection BMW. It was only when it got a new fuel rail that the problem was fixed. Basically it would run for about 10 hours and then fail with huge gas smells. I was surprised it never blew up. Have you ever seen the blue seals fail? Lucky for me my warranty covered all the costs which ran into many thousands.
Love the straight forward info. Thank you! Curious.. since you can manually push the injector in.. I removed my intake mani AND all the injectors, one straight pull.. Is that OK?? Could you cover that in your notes? Question on TOOLING.. is there any kit out there which can be used to form the seal? I didnt wanna drop 100$+ for that.. it is a one time use tool.. there's gotta be a cheaper way!
Pro Tip: Install the compression seal as far onto the cone as you can, then use the sleeve to push it onto the injector. Helps keep the seal from going sideways in the sleeve and possibly cutting or damaging it. Speaking from experience... Ruined 3 seals the first time I attempted this.
There are so many different opinions on what lubricant to use on fuel injector o-rings; petroleum jelly, silicon, dielectric, assembly lube, motor oil, gasoline. What are your thoughts?
@HumbleMechanic thanks for all your helpful videos! FYI the white split washer lookin thing is called a backup ring, these are commonly used in combination with an O-ring to prevent the O-ring from squeezing itself between the groove and mating seal surface ID. Backup rings can also promote the O-ring to seal better on the pressure side of the groove. Exciting stuff!
Basic question: is it necessary to replace teflon seals on the injectors if they pull out with the air intake manifold? What about the injectors that stayed in the motor block?
Hey guys, here's a good tip. Genuine Audi injector repair kit costs about $30, as you know. But here's a kicker; Genuine Hyundai injector repair kit (35312 2G730) is the exactly identical one. O-ring size is same, nylon seal has the same size. In Korea this Hyundai kit only costs $2!!! COSTS 1/15 OF AUDI ONE LOL. In US, it costs more than $2, but other countries may have different story. Just FYI!
Hi Charles! I'm currently working on my car inspired on the great work you guys always do. I'm at the point where I need to push in new Bosch injectors (with new seals) but it was really hard to make the first one go in and decided not to force it. I can tell the Teflon seal rotates quite freely on all of them. Is it normal to need much push force to pop them in and would you know if Teflon seal is normal to rotate "so" freely? Very appreciate all your hard work and any comement. Omar
I'm doing a PCV body replacement an managed to get both fuel rails off without removing injectors. I ports are major carbed up but I don't even want to tackle that job. I was going to try and scrap off some of the built up carbon on the valves put notice the ports were not all the way closed. Didn't want risk knocking stuff of in them, so as I bad I would like to clean, I'm not. However, since since all the injectors stayed in I assume I only replaced the rail o-ring? I was hoping not to replace any, b/c those kits are like $11 each x6. but looks like I'm not replacing at least the top part. Oh well.
Are you sure the GDI injector seals on the in-head end are nylon? Bosch claims they are PTFE/Teflon. What is the result if the combustion chamber end PTFE/Teflon/Nylon seals and or bore are lightly lubricated with WD-40 or engine oil or PTFE O-ring lube during installation? Also I have seen a Bosch bulletin that recommends using a non-silicone lubricant on the fuel rail side seals/O-rings, has that recommendation been superseded? Thank you for all that you do and sharing.
damn Charles, wish I had heard about this injector kit!! I broke several rings trying to get them seat! ugh. Those rings aren't cheap! Hahaha I resorted to lube them to get them to seat! Hahaha. I guess I was too rough or something lol
Question. Do you install injectors first into block making it really hard to connect wires or into fuel rail making it hard to line up injectors? I have a 2011 and it seems fuel rail first.
hmmm....when i removed the fuel injector from my tsi engine it did not have that 3 prong black spacer on it...Only a flat plastic white washer.....should i use the black 3 prong washer that comes with the kit or reuse the flat white washer?
FYI if anybody’s interested, I used a taper punch, cut the back so it’s same size as injector used o ring grease and slid it onto the injector starting from taper end to the injector worked well didn’t have to buy kit.
Do all 2.0 TSI’s use the plastic pizza box spacers? I think my 2010 Tiguan 2.0 TSI has been apart before. Non of the injectors had the pizza box spacers installed and one injector didn’t have the metal cage on the inlet side. I ordered four new injectors and a seal kit that includes the metal cage.
Hello, great video, I have a question, I know there is a difference between the tfsi and tsi kit but the lower nailon seal is the same (black seal and white seal) can I fit the black one on the tfsi engine?
I'm waiting for the day when someone combines a direct injection fuel injector and a spark plug into one amazingly stupid module. Add in the COP and fuel rail, make it one huge, several thousand dollar unit... C'mon, you KNOW it's gonna happen! ;D
Great and interesting video guys very detailed. My question is if I'm replacing the fuel injectors on a 12 valve VR6 and they already come with o-rings on them I don't have to shrink them do I? I should be able to just remove the old ones off and install the new ones on right?
So if the injectors come out easily, does that mean that the seals were probably no good? I did a valve cleaning and didn't realize you needed a tool to get it out. They actually popped right out without trying.
I would buy the kit If I had the car and expected to have to do this multiple times over the time I owned it. Then either ebay it off or include it with the car.
Charles, I have a problem with the electrical side of the fuel injector, the clips inside the wire harness have broke and causing a loose connection that results in a misfire. The clips are hard to find and expensive. Can i wrap with electrical tape and be done with it?
Love the collaborative content guys! I plan on doing this soon on my FSI MKV GTI as part of the intake valve cleaning process. What is the best / most thorough way of cleaning the injectors while they are out? Thanks, Tom
Are there aftermarket tools that do the same thing? just saw the price! VW/Audi really don't want any DIYers to try and fix their own cars. Designed as much as they could to not be easily repairable. I remember when it took half an hour and 2 techs and my car in the air to change the lightbulb in my headlight.
I did my decarb back in 2014, but is there a specific way to clean the injector nozzles? I just dipped them in the same decarb cleaning solution and gently used a wire brush. It seemed to do the trick fine since it's been almost 3 years and 25k miles, but I thought I'd ask since others may also have similar questions.
LOL, I only care in the ways that make me want to do a better video for you guys. I don't care if people hate the video, or hate me for that matter. I just want to make sure I am doing as good of a job as possible
i would really like to see a low compression concern, caused by a weak injector seal. A lot of service manuals will not even have that written in there flow charts of things that cause low compression. Out of the 100 injectors jobs i've done, i've been guilty of reusing all the injector seals, with no lube, only blowing the hole and wiping the injectors tips with a rag. Never had a issue. fortunately most GM's I work on have 2 Teflon seals on the tips as double precaution but still are supposed to be replaced per liability reasons.
I would insist on doing the job 100%, out of liability concerns, but since I am working on one of my household cars, I am deciding to reuse the seals as well. Best thing I can do is continue to be alert and aware of the situation, and keep a fire extinguisher in the vehicle for the next couple fuel tanks, lol 😂. Application is 14 Ford escape 1.6l Ecoboost.
Much appreciated! I was just looking around trying to figure out where to get the kit. I have a Q7 that needs a new valve cover and I will be removing some injectors to pull everything.
@@rockbe02 good luck and I would call and reserve or order the kit ahead. All stores may not stock it, but any store can get it. It's a tedious job, but the 2.0 is ALOT easier to do. On the 1.8T, the manifold has two studs so you have to have it at a perfect angle, and theres a timing sensor above the driver side manifold that makes it harder to get out and in. Make sure you have several rolls of shop towels, and at least 3 cans of carb cleaner as you'll go through a lot. The seals are pretty cheap, and make sure you replace the gasket. They get old and hard with miles so save yourself the headache. I think the seals were 12 bucks a cylinder, and the intake gasket was like 28.
@@TheWalterHWhite I am actually working on a 2010 Q7 with the 3.6 so that kit may not be the same but at least there is a chance they would have them instead of me needing to buy one.
Will this kit work for the 3.0L TFSI injectors (06E906036AL) as well? I'm having a hard time finding a kit that lists these injectors or the vehicles with the 3.0L, and they don't have the little protrusion on the tip.
Should you lube the end injector seals that insert into the motor? I'm replacing the seals on a Chevy ECOTECH motor and the service manual doesn't specify whether to or not.
Installed new seals with the tool, cylinder 2 and 3 have huge compression leaks and misfires now. Can clearly hear them hissing compression, so bummed.
BTW, thanks for you videos. If not for you I could not have done timings chains which came out perfectly I think 😊 unless that’s why I now have misfire codes.
I ordered a kit from uro tuning of fuel injectors and the injector already has em installed but has an extra pair for each. Does it mean im good to just pop them in?
Arent you supposed to put a spacer on the injector before pushing on the dies shrinking the nylon ring? And i thought there were 3 different size dies..
@HumbleMechanic it's really a spacer you put on the injector so the die only can go on a certain distance. It's the gold one on the right of the three dies.
HumbleMechanic I work at a VW dealership in the Netherlands so also use the oem one. The spacer is maybe only needed for other injectors, like for the 1.4L engines we have a lot over here.
Please help, I have a bosch gdi injector that is rotating and moving slightly in all directions after a injector swap , all other injector from factory do not move and we had a hard time getting them out but after swapping injector 1 with 2 they both are moving free and don't reseat as they do from factory . The teflon white seal was not changed
good video thanks .but will you be doing one on conman rail diesel injectors to ? id like to see your way as it has taken me hours in the past getting them out o the engine
Hi Charles, My name is Christian garcia, I been a fan of yours for a long time now, love your videos. Great information. I'm contacting you because I have a 2003 VW Jetta MK4, I have a problem where I'm driving and my speedometer goes a little over 65 mph, the speedometer needle starts to go up and down while I keep a steady gas pedal. I tried replacing my input and output transmission speed sensor and I still have the same problem. Do you think it could be the instrument cluster? Or could it be That I'm missing a different speed sensor? If you could please take a minute to help me out or guide me to the right place. Thank you so much for your time.
Having a gauge needle that moves erratically is common among all cars, but I suggest you get advice from VW specialists first. You don't have to buy a new cluster, most are rebuildable. Auto dealers usually don't sell rebuilt clusters, only new ones that cost a fortune. Also, using a cluster from a junkyard may not be a good idea, because some clusters have to be programmed to match the car. Search online for companies that rebuild clusters after you get advice from VW specialists.
sorry, but it looks like you are using the tool wrong, to compress the teflon ring, you need all 3 tools and the first one is only to slide the teflon ring and the other two to reduce the diameter. the original VW partnumber for the 3 tools are T10133/6 (to install the ring together with T10133/5 the cone) and later T10133/7 and T10133/8 to compress the ring
Bit late to the party on this one, but I’ve just replaced my injectors and cylinder 3 is misfiring loads at idle. Mine didn’t have the black tripod sort of spacer you put on at the end, just a white nylon ring in the seat. I’m guessing this could be the cause of my issues?
HumbleMechanic thanks for the reply. I’ve tried swapping round plugs, coil packs, and swapping that injector back to an old one, but it always remains on cylinder 3. It wasn’t there before I replaced it. Is it possible that I’ve damaged the Nylon seal in the seat? Just seems odd that it only happens on idle.
Great video. Is there enough of an advantage to DFI vs. conventional FI to warrant doing this procedure? So far, not a fan of DFI. Just my opinion. If I were a fan, I'd really appreciate DAP and THM for providing this info. Thx!
No prob. I know not everyone wants to hear about the job. They just want to get right into it. That being said, there is usually some important info in that part.
Brilliant! I'm not planning on doing this myself, but my car is in the shop and is having new/refurbished injectors fitted and it's nice to be able to see exactly what they're talking about!
Great Tutorial! Cleaned up my carbon using different methods. First Walnut shells but I ended up buying the wrong shells (12Grit) Coarse and it would clog up the Blaster. Then Berryman Chemical Dip/Carb Cleaner, very time consuming, while waiting for chemicals to work, I was able to exchange the coarse for Fine grit (24) and was able to clean all the valves in an hour. The Portable Blaster at Harbor freight was $30 and the 25lbs of Walnut Shells was $25. A lot cheaper then the Dealership.
did you use the red media blaster from harbor freight, if so, what nozzle did you use to reach into the valve? it seems like the stock nozzle will be too short.
@@Pickle117 the inexpensive gray blaster from harbor freight works fine if anyone else reads this.
That video was so informative. I never knew that the new style "direct injection" injectors had to use a special tool to seat the new seals. This kind of sponsored tools is great because u wouldnt want to take on a job that requires you to remove the injectors and not be able to get them back in correctly. Also you guys did a great job explaining and showing all the pieces in the kit and how to use it. Great job!
+Kenneth White thanks so much glad to be able to help
This kind of content is what keeps you, Charles, at the top level of VW/Audi content creators. Your professionalism is paramount and although i can be critical of some videos at times, overall you have a great sense of what your views want to see and learn.
Hey bud first off thanks a ton for all these videos, it's a great help as a tutorial as well as confidence booster to be able to see exactly how all these tasks are performed.
Just wanted to note, my bosch injector seal kit says to install the plastic grey rings with the flat side toward the blue rubber o-ring, which I see is opposite as you have them in this video.
Was going to say the same thing. Correct orientation. Thank you
thanks so much for this info. i replace one of these without a cone and die to reset the nylon seal. it worked but i had no idea what i was doing.
Thanks! This video was exactly what i needed and while i bought new fuel injectors, i still tightened the silicone seal near the nozzle and really appreciate the help!
🙏 thank you!!!
I had repeated failure of the blue seal on one injector on my V12 direct injection BMW. It was only when it got a new fuel rail that the problem was fixed. Basically it would run for about 10 hours and then fail with huge gas smells. I was surprised it never blew up. Have you ever seen the blue seals fail? Lucky for me my warranty covered all the costs which ran into many thousands.
Love the straight forward info. Thank you! Curious.. since you can manually push the injector in.. I removed my intake mani AND all the injectors, one straight pull.. Is that OK?? Could you cover that in your notes?
Question on TOOLING.. is there any kit out there which can be used to form the seal? I didnt wanna drop 100$+ for that.. it is a one time use tool.. there's gotta be a cheaper way!
Good times as always!
since you do way more vdubs than me, I pay close attention to vids like this..thanks Charles...you will never get a thumbs down from me. cheers
Thank so much! LOL,
Pro Tip:
Install the compression seal as far onto the cone as you can, then use the sleeve to push it onto the injector. Helps keep the seal from going sideways in the sleeve and possibly cutting or damaging it.
Speaking from experience... Ruined 3 seals the first time I attempted this.
Thank you dude jesus… ruined 2 seals lol I was wondering what I was doing wrong
Thank you for making these videos, they are so helpful.
There are so many different opinions on what lubricant to use on fuel injector o-rings; petroleum jelly, silicon, dielectric, assembly lube, motor oil, gasoline. What are your thoughts?
@HumbleMechanic thanks for all your helpful videos! FYI the white split washer lookin thing is called a backup ring, these are commonly used in combination with an O-ring to prevent the O-ring from squeezing itself between the groove and mating seal surface ID. Backup rings can also promote the O-ring to seal better on the pressure side of the groove. Exciting stuff!
Basic question: is it necessary to replace teflon seals on the injectors if they pull out with the air intake manifold? What about the injectors that stayed in the motor block?
Hey guys, here's a good tip.
Genuine Audi injector repair kit costs about $30, as you know. But here's a kicker; Genuine Hyundai injector repair kit (35312 2G730) is the exactly identical one. O-ring size is same, nylon seal has the same size. In Korea this Hyundai kit only costs $2!!! COSTS 1/15 OF AUDI ONE LOL.
In US, it costs more than $2, but other countries may have different story. Just FYI!
Seems like direct injection is way more trouble than its worth.
Depends if you pay 2$/liter or 2$/gallon...
@@rkan2What do you mean? I have not seen a significant difference in fuel economy...
Hi Charles!
I'm currently working on my car inspired on the great work you guys always do. I'm at the point where I need to push in new Bosch injectors (with new seals) but it was really hard to make the first one go in and decided not to force it. I can tell the Teflon seal rotates quite freely on all of them.
Is it normal to need much push force to pop them in and would you know if Teflon seal is normal to rotate "so" freely? Very appreciate all your hard work and any comement.
Omar
I'm doing a PCV body replacement an managed to get both fuel rails off without removing injectors. I ports are major carbed up but I don't even want to tackle that job. I was going to try and scrap off some of the built up carbon on the valves put notice the ports were not all the way closed. Didn't want risk knocking stuff of in them, so as I bad I would like to clean, I'm not. However, since since all the injectors stayed in I assume I only replaced the rail o-ring? I was hoping not to replace any, b/c those kits are like $11 each x6. but looks like I'm not replacing at least the top part. Oh well.
Are you sure the GDI injector seals on the in-head end are nylon?
Bosch claims they are PTFE/Teflon.
What is the result if the combustion chamber end PTFE/Teflon/Nylon seals and or bore are lightly lubricated with WD-40 or engine oil or PTFE O-ring lube during installation?
Also I have seen a Bosch bulletin that recommends using a non-silicone lubricant on the fuel rail side seals/O-rings, has that recommendation been superseded?
Thank you for all that you do and sharing.
+patw52pb1 that's what vw info says. But now I'm wondering if I misspoke
Teflon is white like nylon and it has a very high heat tolerance... quite possible.
OEM= PTFE/Teflon, Aftermarket= Random white stuff.
To my knowledge, silicon can contaminate 02 sensors, probably why they tell you not to use it, I could of course be incorrect.
Ben R Yes. They need to be teflon for heat.
damn Charles, wish I had heard about this injector kit!! I broke several rings trying to get them seat! ugh. Those rings aren't cheap! Hahaha I resorted to lube them to get them to seat! Hahaha. I guess I was too rough or something lol
So, only usin 2 of the sizing dies? Or does that depend on the model/ Im working on a 06 A6 3.2 FSI. Thanks for the vid!
Question. Do you install injectors first into block making it really hard to connect wires or into fuel rail making it hard to line up injectors? I have a 2011 and it seems fuel rail first.
hmmm....when i removed the fuel injector from my tsi engine it did not have that 3 prong black spacer on it...Only a flat plastic white washer.....should i use the black 3 prong washer that comes with the kit or reuse the flat white washer?
Good video, really helps for my 19 WRX, thanks!
Very well explained. Thanks guys!
FYI if anybody’s interested, I used a taper punch, cut the back so it’s same size as injector used o ring grease and slid it onto the injector starting from taper end to the injector worked well didn’t have to buy kit.
And how did you shrink the seals after that? Thanks.
jepe ge use o ring grease (silicone grease) and put injector Carfully back in hole you shouldn’t have to shrink it ,should fit in snug
@@praneetsingh6201 Ok, thanks. According to the manual no grease should be used but if it worked for you then it can work for me also ;-) Thanks.
Definitely not normal grease it might attack seals (petroleum base), silicone grease will prevent tearing and binding and seat seals.
Do I need to press on the new injectors that come with the seals on them from factory?
no, they should go in somewhat easy
Do all 2.0 TSI’s use the plastic pizza box spacers? I think my 2010 Tiguan 2.0 TSI has been apart before. Non of the injectors had the pizza box spacers installed and one injector didn’t have the metal cage on the inlet side. I ordered four new injectors and a seal kit that includes the metal cage.
Do the VAG Bosch injectors have a micro filter? IF so, where is it and how to you replace it? Cheers from Switzerland! :-)
Hello, great video, I have a question, I know there is a difference between the tfsi and tsi kit but the lower nailon seal is the same (black seal and white seal) can I fit the black one on the tfsi engine?
I'm waiting for the day when someone combines a direct injection fuel injector and a spark plug into one amazingly stupid module. Add in the COP and fuel rail, make it one huge, several thousand dollar unit... C'mon, you KNOW it's gonna happen! ;D
+rhkips hahha it will be Audi in sure
Great and interesting video guys very detailed. My question is if I'm replacing the fuel injectors on a 12 valve VR6 and they already come with o-rings on them I don't have to shrink them do I? I should be able to just remove the old ones off and install the new ones on right?
You only need to do this if you're re-using the injector.
So if the injectors come out easily, does that mean that the seals were probably no good? I did a valve cleaning and didn't realize you needed a tool to get it out. They actually popped right out without trying.
exelente !!! algo tan simple y tan importante !! gracias amigos
How about cleaning the injectors?
Bonus question: What is the reason to replace the seals? I did not get that one.
Combustion chamber leakage/ blow by 2:01
Question: Does the 2007 Audi Q7 3.6L V6 with FSI have just 4 fuel injectors or are there 6 fuel injectors on the vehicle's engine ?
Hey thanks for this, very informative video as usual. Cheers Charles
Glad it helped!!! :)
thanks for continuing to shew people away from the dealer.
sarcasm
+Bat Man naw I don't most Diyers are gonna spend plus $100 to buy the tool. If they are, odds are not coming to the dealer anyway.
LOL, I saw this after my comment.
yea your right
I would buy the kit If I had the car and expected to have to do this multiple times over the time I owned it. Then either ebay it off or include it with the car.
You guys are the best, thanks!
Nice job on the video.
Great video, extremely helpful.
Charles, I have a problem with the electrical side of the fuel injector, the clips inside the wire harness have broke and causing a loose connection that results in a misfire. The clips are hard to find and expensive. Can i wrap with electrical tape and be done with it?
You guys are the best man
Thank you for your Great tips.
Would it be the same steps for rs4 injectors ? I plan on throwing some rs4 injectors on my a4 and want to throw new seals on them .
Love the collaborative content guys! I plan on doing this soon on my FSI MKV GTI as part of the intake valve cleaning process.
What is the best / most thorough way of cleaning the injectors while they are out?
Thanks,
Tom
A little carb cleaner on a rag is all you need.
Are there aftermarket tools that do the same thing? just saw the price! VW/Audi really don't want any DIYers to try and fix their own cars. Designed as much as they could to not be easily repairable. I remember when it took half an hour and 2 techs and my car in the air to change the lightbulb in my headlight.
Amazon has them too
I did my decarb back in 2014, but is there a specific way to clean the injector nozzles? I just dipped them in the same decarb cleaning solution and gently used a wire brush. It seemed to do the trick fine since it's been almost 3 years and 25k miles, but I thought I'd ask since others may also have similar questions.
I just spray a rag and wipe them. I think it's fine as long as you are not grinding the carbon back into the injector nozzle
HumbleMechanic Any chance of doing a video on the decarb process? Preferably via soda blasting. Would be really helpful.
Damn, someone didn't like this already.. That was quick LOL
haters going to hate. but so wot
LOL, I only care in the ways that make me want to do a better video for you guys. I don't care if people hate the video, or hate me for that matter. I just want to make sure I am doing as good of a job as possible
i have a 2004 Audi A6 Guanttro i have two fuel injectors that leak when they get cold what can i do other then replacing them ???
i would really like to see a low compression concern, caused by a weak injector seal. A lot of service manuals will not even have that written in there flow charts of things that cause low compression. Out of the 100 injectors jobs i've done, i've been guilty of reusing all the injector seals, with no lube, only blowing the hole and wiping the injectors tips with a rag. Never had a issue. fortunately most GM's I work on have 2 Teflon seals on the tips as double precaution but still are supposed to be replaced per liability reasons.
I would insist on doing the job 100%, out of liability concerns, but since I am working on one of my household cars, I am deciding to reuse the seals as well. Best thing I can do is continue to be alert and aware of the situation, and keep a fire extinguisher in the vehicle for the next couple fuel tanks, lol 😂. Application is 14 Ford escape 1.6l Ecoboost.
That white plastic washer, does it matter which way it's installed? Cause it's installed flipped around compared to the one that was removed.
God Tip! Autozone has this exact tool kit in their loaner tools. Part number 8877.
Much appreciated! I was just looking around trying to figure out where to get the kit. I have a Q7 that needs a new valve cover and I will be removing some injectors to pull everything.
@@rockbe02 good luck and I would call and reserve or order the kit ahead. All stores may not stock it, but any store can get it. It's a tedious job, but the 2.0 is ALOT easier to do. On the 1.8T, the manifold has two studs so you have to have it at a perfect angle, and theres a timing sensor above the driver side manifold that makes it harder to get out and in. Make sure you have several rolls of shop towels, and at least 3 cans of carb cleaner as you'll go through a lot. The seals are pretty cheap, and make sure you replace the gasket. They get old and hard with miles so save yourself the headache. I think the seals were 12 bucks a cylinder, and the intake gasket was like 28.
@@TheWalterHWhite I am actually working on a 2010 Q7 with the 3.6 so that kit may not be the same but at least there is a chance they would have them instead of me needing to buy one.
Is it on to add a little silicon grease to facilitate the install of the white seal? I’m having a heck of a time installing it
no lubricant on the white teflon seal
i recently had a injector seal leak so dealer replaced all the seals. should i change my oil now as a result? it is a DI engine truck.
Will this kit work for the 3.0L TFSI injectors (06E906036AL) as well? I'm having a hard time finding a kit that lists these injectors or the vehicles with the 3.0L, and they don't have the little protrusion on the tip.
awesome video thank you. do you have a part number for the kit?
Does the 2009 passat komfort have the spacer? I don't see that on my injectors...?
I have a Nissan straight 6 1978 and was wondering what the correct size of seals to get?
Should you lube the end injector seals that insert into the motor? I'm replacing the seals on a Chevy ECOTECH motor and the service manual doesn't specify whether to or not.
No. Don’t lube the white end. But yes lube the blue seal.
Do you have to recode when only changing seals
Should the nylon seal be able to spin on the injector still once its been shrunken down to fit?
It sometimes does
Do these seals need to be replaced anytime the injectors are removed?
If I buy new fuel injectors and replace them do I need to add any seals to them?
The OEM ones come with seals.
Are you also replacing the entire manifold when you clean the injectors?
Depends if it’s needed. They fail a lot
Installed new seals with the tool, cylinder 2 and 3 have huge compression leaks and misfires now. Can clearly hear them hissing compression, so bummed.
Did you ever find out what caused that issue?
What is the kit part number
Can i use this kit on a 2016 mazda 3 2.0
that injector looks like hyundai's just the black washer/spacer is different i wonder if this kit will work for hyundai's as well
+PUNK_AND_GOTH odds are good it will but I can't confirm.
I have redone seals twice now and keep getting P0301 and 304 misfire codes. I’ve got new plugs and coils and it’s not that. Any ideas?
BTW, thanks for you videos. If not for you I could not have done timings chains which came out perfectly I think 😊 unless that’s why I now have misfire codes.
Thanks for sharing
Will those plastic spacers seal anything, and are those necessery?
Can i double up orings if my spacer broke?
I ordered a kit from uro tuning of fuel injectors and the injector already has em installed but has an extra pair for each. Does it mean im good to just pop them in?
Send it!!!! Generally new ones come pre sealed
Nice! Thank you so much good sir.
Does the micro filter needs changing too?
How was the metal ring slide in on 6:55? Is there a special tool or method?
are the tool universal for any direct injection
What is the cost for this type of repair on an Audi Q5?
Should I use rebuild kit if I’m putting all new fuel injectors ? I’ve got Audi s5 b8 2011
Most new injectors come with seals
HumbleMechanic i figures that but what about the metal cage ? Do I need to replace those ? Rebuilt kit comes with seals and metal cage
Which size of dice to use first to slide seal?
@ 6:30 the spacer/washer is on upside down...
Roderick Roderick Good catch. “Step” must face away from rubber o-ring!
Arent you supposed to put a spacer on the injector before pushing on the dies shrinking the nylon ring? And i thought there were 3 different size dies..
+Mathijs B there are 3 but only 2 for this injector
Not sure about the spacer you're talking about
@HumbleMechanic it's really a spacer you put on the injector so the die only can go on a certain distance.
It's the gold one on the right of the three dies.
+Mathijs B the OEM kit has a shoulder on it. And I think this kit was made similar.
That's why you flip the too. At least that's my observation
HumbleMechanic I work at a VW dealership in the Netherlands so also use the oem one. The spacer is maybe only needed for other injectors, like for the 1.4L engines we have a lot over here.
+Mathijs B that could be. The 1.4 is very new for us here
Dang, another specialty tool kit....
yep.. Gotta pay this way in the VW/Audi world. Sadly
Please help, I have a bosch gdi injector that is rotating and moving slightly in all directions after a injector swap , all other injector from factory do not move and we had a hard time getting them out but after swapping injector 1 with 2 they both are moving free and don't reseat as they do from factory . The teflon white seal was not changed
probably need to replace the seals, or start there and see what happens
good video thanks .but will you be doing one on conman rail diesel injectors to ? id like to see your way as it has taken me hours in the past getting them out o the engine
IF the opertunity comes up I will, but that is not nearly as common as the Tsi/FSI
You need a slide hammer and the right adapter to fit onto the injectors.
When you have that, it's a 10 minute job.
panzerveps do the claw type adapters work. Rather than taking to top off the injector
Nope. You have to screw it onto where the fuel line goes in.
Hi Charles, My name is Christian garcia, I been a fan of yours for a long time now, love your videos. Great information. I'm contacting you because I have a 2003 VW Jetta MK4, I have a problem where I'm driving and my speedometer goes a little over 65 mph, the speedometer needle starts to go up and down while I keep a steady gas pedal. I tried replacing my input and output transmission speed sensor and I still have the same problem. Do you think it could be the instrument cluster? Or could it be That I'm missing a different speed sensor? If you could please take a minute to help me out or guide me to the right place. Thank you so much for your time.
check the gear inside the transmission. that is a common failure point. It could be the cluster too.
HumbleMechanic thank you so much, I will take a look at both, and keep you updated to see what happened. Thank you once more. Have a great day :D
Having a gauge needle that moves erratically is common among all cars, but I suggest you get advice from VW specialists first.
You don't have to buy a new cluster, most are rebuildable. Auto dealers usually don't sell rebuilt clusters, only new ones that cost a fortune. Also, using a cluster from a junkyard may not be a good idea, because some clusters have to be programmed to match the car. Search online for companies that rebuild clusters after you get advice from VW specialists.
My injector looks the exact same 1.8tfsi Audi a4 b8 took them out did not see the black plastic bit at the bottom installed them and there leeking
Just use zip ties for the seal compression
sorry, but it looks like you are using the tool wrong, to compress the teflon ring, you need all 3 tools and the first one is only to slide the teflon ring and the other two to reduce the diameter. the original VW partnumber for the 3 tools are T10133/6 (to install the ring together with T10133/5 the cone) and later T10133/7 and T10133/8 to compress the ring
Bit late to the party on this one, but I’ve just replaced my injectors and cylinder 3 is misfiring loads at idle. Mine didn’t have the black tripod sort of spacer you put on at the end, just a white nylon ring in the seat. I’m guessing this could be the cause of my issues?
I have never seen it lead to that. Be sure it's not something else causing the misfires
HumbleMechanic thanks for the reply. I’ve tried swapping round plugs, coil packs, and swapping that injector back to an old one, but it always remains on cylinder 3. It wasn’t there before I replaced it. Is it possible that I’ve damaged the Nylon seal in the seat? Just seems odd that it only happens on idle.
@@thejay20 I Know this is a year old but I have the same cylinder 3 missfire did you ever figure it out?
@@VdubSmallGarageDid u ever figure it out bud?
Great video. Is there enough of an advantage to DFI vs. conventional FI to warrant doing this procedure? So far, not a fan of DFI. Just my opinion. If I were a fan, I'd really appreciate DAP and THM for providing this info. Thx!
Most DI engines should be super easy. Or just follow the process on the outside of the injector.
Hi if I replies the injectior would they need coding?
How do I get one of the screw drivers?
What would you guys suggest for cleaning the fuel injectors
Carb cleaner works wonders.
Oh no, i just finished the job , replace four fuel injector , but i put a bit engine oil on the nylon seal
Could u send me link where i can buy this tooll please been on the ebay couldn find it
shopdap.com/store/vw-audi-fue...
thanks guys. the book(alldata) kinda sux
hi, please Can you tell me the measurements of the conical tool for Teflon?
Sorry I don’t have that info
Huge thanks for "DIY starts at..." note.
No prob. I know not everyone wants to hear about the job. They just want to get right into it.
That being said, there is usually some important info in that part.
What a PITA modern engines are.