The ears look just slightly taller than a vintage. Also the vintage one's around 1944 through 1956 they started nickel plating the bulb socket, especially the 2 cells. I like the brass better too. The Graflex shop one is supposed to come with the pins and brass pabs, just no bulb socket, bulb, or battery spring. Very install ready. Great review, thanks.
Thanks! Yes, the TGS one is basically just a hollow shell with the pins too. Makes for an easier conversion. That's good to know the details on the bulb pin. I knew they fluctuated from year to year. While this isn't technically inaccurate I do still prefer the brass too.
Most vintages had brass, some of them them had silver. Many of the brass appear silver due to aging and tarnishing. My vintage is brass as well as 90% of the others I've seen.
East Coast Sabers Really? Huh. Alright then. I have a vintage, and it's in really good condition, and it's silver. Perhaps it has some aging, or they may have used different metals over time. But I think the one used in the movie might have been silver, as every replica, etc. of it made by any company has a silver bolt. And the Anakin RotS bolt is brass.
Start with the lowest and work your way up. I think the maroon ones meant for metal would be too much, Im going to start with synthetic #0000 steel wool which is made of plastic and work my way up in abrasiveness from there.
I used the maroon and it worked well for the shiny end cap. I actually had to use a lot more pressure than I thought I would. I used it very lightly on the bottom half and it helped a little but it's not perfect. I have a couple of other tricks to try so I'm sure I'll get it to match.
do you have access to a solos hold or kr sabers blade holder? I just seen online there are minor issues of alignment with the Romans replica. basically, the top holes don't align exactly with blade holders
I have a Solo's Hold installed in my vintage Graflex. Yes, neither fit 100% properly in the Romans but the guys over at Nerfworkx Lab who are responsible for the SH blade holder will be modifying it to fit the new replica.
Honestly can't say. Best way to stay up to date is to follow the run threads over on the IRA or RPF forums. Honestly can't remember which site it was on. They also post pretty regular updates in my "Graflex Addicts Support Group" on Facebook.
Hello, I am french so forgive me in advance for my english. I read on forum about américan product call Mother Mag to polish the graflex hilt. I currently have a graflex with some micro scratch and I would have known if it was possible to remove them with this product ? Cordially
You might be able to see some success with Mother's. Nickel plating is tough to get scratches out of but you might have luck if you also lightly sand it with a mild scotch-brite pad.
Thanks for your advices. I was waiting to receive my pot of Mother Mag to make you a return. Apart from a little more shine I didn’t succeed to remove my micro-scratch and I would confess that I'm a little afraid to use a scotch-brite for the moment ;) .
The Roman's is a good replica. A Graflex 2.0 is better if you don't care as much about accuracy but want something that is more duel worthy. The Graflex Shop is also releasing their new replica soon which I will be reviewing so if you want something that is more authentic you may want to see what that one is like.
I don't have any electronics in my vintage yet, I'm currently building a custom chassis and crystal chamber for it. The chamber will either be designed to accommodate the rivets or I can drill them out and cut the heads off of some new ones and glue them in place so they don't protrude into the hilt.
If you buy a 1" blade holder you can absolutely use a 1" blade. I prefer 7/8" for the Original Trilogy blades but 1" looks good for TFA. Electronics install can vary depending on what you put in it. Basic electronics and chassis systems aren't too difficult if you're experienced in similar types of work. But you can get as difficult as you want if you install top tier sound boards and an advanced chassis or crystal chamber.
Few months late sure, but it's not chrome, it's bright nickel when the rest of the handle has been sand blasted and satin nickel plated. Scotch brite works for sure, you could also jump on Google and find local finishing companies that cod re-do the entire thing so it's uniform throughout.
I'm aware it's not actually chrome, just the way the nickel plating took to the end cap. Scotch brite works well enough, especially since a lot of the pommel is covered by the d-ring.
Also, you talk about different types of nickel plating. Nickel is nickel, the difference is how the surface was prepped, what grade/grit of sand was used when the pieces were sandblasted prior to being plated.
My vintage was very corroded brass. Once I got the corrosion off it is shiny brass, not silver. But it's really splitting hairs it;s such a small detail.
hmmm thats interesting you 2.0 emitter does look off when compared to the romans and vintage i was holding my 2.0 while watching and mine looks nothing like yours it looks closer to the romans. \
Mmh yea, should be good, and do you have some idea for clamp discoloration? And sorry I didn't thank you for the awesome review you did for us :D love your channel !!!!
Another solid video/ review from ECS! Thank for taking the time and for going into so much detail.
Excellent review. Thanks for putting the time in not just for the review but also the comparisons.
No problem my friend!
The ears look just slightly taller than a vintage. Also the vintage one's around 1944 through 1956 they started nickel plating the bulb socket, especially the 2 cells. I like the brass better too.
The Graflex shop one is supposed to come with the pins and brass pabs, just no bulb socket, bulb, or battery spring. Very install ready.
Great review, thanks.
Thanks! Yes, the TGS one is basically just a hollow shell with the pins too. Makes for an easier conversion.
That's good to know the details on the bulb pin. I knew they fluctuated from year to year. While this isn't technically inaccurate I do still prefer the brass too.
Very welcome.
is the Graflex 2.0 you're referring to from TGS?
Are you going to make a conversion series with this one? If you did that would be awesome.
this ^^^
Possibly at some point. I have a lot of other projects on the bench right now so it won't be in the immediate future.
The bolt pin on actual Graflex flashes were always silver. The only time a Graflex saber had a brass bolt pin was the Anakin RotS "skinnyflex" saber.
Most vintages had brass, some of them them had silver. Many of the brass appear silver due to aging and tarnishing. My vintage is brass as well as 90% of the others I've seen.
East Coast Sabers
Really? Huh. Alright then. I have a vintage, and it's in really good condition, and it's silver. Perhaps it has some aging, or they may have used different metals over time. But I think the one used in the movie might have been silver, as every replica, etc. of it made by any company has a silver bolt. And the Anakin RotS bolt is brass.
Great in depth review. So glad I got into this run. One quick question, which scotchbrite do you use? I plan to do that mod straight away
Start with the lowest and work your way up. I think the maroon ones meant for metal would be too much, Im going to start with synthetic #0000 steel wool which is made of plastic and work my way up in abrasiveness from there.
I used the maroon and it worked well for the shiny end cap. I actually had to use a lot more pressure than I thought I would. I used it very lightly on the bottom half and it helped a little but it's not perfect. I have a couple of other tricks to try so I'm sure I'll get it to match.
East Coast Sabers thanks :-) I use ultra fine (grey) to Polish my sabers so dark red (maroon) should be OK .
Is it possible to make the top half the same finish as the bottom instead of the bottom as the top? The bottom looks much better than the top
I'm sure you could try polishing it. But honestly the top is more accurate to a vintage as far as finish goes. The bottom is a little too shiny.
Where can one get this smooth head rivet you speak of to replace the allen screw in the bunny ears?
I get them from a member of my Facebook group; Graflex Addicts Support Group. I'm not sure where he gets them from.
do you have access to a solos hold or kr sabers blade holder? I just seen online there are minor issues of alignment with the Romans replica.
basically, the top holes don't align exactly with blade holders
I have a Solo's Hold installed in my vintage Graflex. Yes, neither fit 100% properly in the Romans but the guys over at Nerfworkx Lab who are responsible for the SH blade holder will be modifying it to fit the new replica.
East Coast Sabers cheers. how long do you think that would take?
Honestly can't say. Best way to stay up to date is to follow the run threads over on the IRA or RPF forums. Honestly can't remember which site it was on. They also post pretty regular updates in my "Graflex Addicts Support Group" on Facebook.
East Coast Sabers many thanks
Hello,
I am french so forgive me in advance for my english. I read on forum about américan product call Mother Mag to polish the graflex hilt. I currently have a graflex with some micro scratch and I would have known if it was possible to remove them with this product ?
Cordially
You might be able to see some success with Mother's. Nickel plating is tough to get scratches out of but you might have luck if you also lightly sand it with a mild scotch-brite pad.
Thanks for your advices. I was waiting to receive my pot of Mother Mag to make you a return. Apart from a little more shine I didn’t succeed to remove my micro-scratch and I would confess that I'm a little afraid to use a scotch-brite for the moment ;) .
would fine steel wool help in dulling that finish to match?
I'm not sure I would go as abrasive as steel wool. I'd try and pick up some fine scotch-brite pads to try first.
Good idea.
East Coast Sabers use fine not ultra fine, I use ultra fine to Polish sabers so fine should add a nice pattern
Could you replace the emitter shell of a Graflex 2.0 with the Romans?
Not really, not without modifications to some of the holes and such.
should i buy this or 2.0 for esb full electronic crystal reveal build? or is there something better coming out in the near future?
The Roman's is a good replica. A Graflex 2.0 is better if you don't care as much about accuracy but want something that is more duel worthy. The Graflex Shop is also releasing their new replica soon which I will be reviewing so if you want something that is more authentic you may want to see what that one is like.
Are there electronics in your vintage? If so, how do the rivets not get in the way
I don't have any electronics in my vintage yet, I'm currently building a custom chassis and crystal chamber for it. The chamber will either be designed to accommodate the rivets or I can drill them out and cut the heads off of some new ones and glue them in place so they don't protrude into the hilt.
Is it posdible to use 1 inch blades? Hard to install electronics?
If you buy a 1" blade holder you can absolutely use a 1" blade. I prefer 7/8" for the Original Trilogy blades but 1" looks good for TFA. Electronics install can vary depending on what you put in it. Basic electronics and chassis systems aren't too difficult if you're experienced in similar types of work. But you can get as difficult as you want if you install top tier sound boards and an advanced chassis or crystal chamber.
Few months late sure, but it's not chrome, it's bright nickel when the rest of the handle has been sand blasted and satin nickel plated. Scotch brite works for sure, you could also jump on Google and find local finishing companies that cod re-do the entire thing so it's uniform throughout.
I'm aware it's not actually chrome, just the way the nickel plating took to the end cap. Scotch brite works well enough, especially since a lot of the pommel is covered by the d-ring.
Also, you talk about different types of nickel plating. Nickel is nickel, the difference is how the surface was prepped, what grade/grit of sand was used when the pieces were sandblasted prior to being plated.
Definately wasn't expecting a reply this late, great channel!
Great video, but I think all vintages came with silver pins, just very thin plating. It scraped off very easily.
My vintage was very corroded brass. Once I got the corrosion off it is shiny brass, not silver. But it's really splitting hairs it;s such a small detail.
hmmm thats interesting you 2.0 emitter does look off when compared to the romans and vintage i was holding my 2.0 while watching and mine looks nothing like yours it looks closer to the romans. \
Some are very slightly different. But every 2.0 I have seen has been very different than a vintage.
Those bunny ears look large... I guess I'll do my own review.
They are larger than a vintage, same size as the 2.0
I HAD a mint in box Graflex 3 cell that I sold... LIKE A FUCKING IDIOT. The letters on the clamp were black.
Yes, as I said, some years did. Some didn't. It's simply personal preference that they weren't.
Is anyone bothered by slider, button and bear tab chromeness ? Because I can't pass over them
Slightly but a little bit of scotch-brite should take care of those as well.
Mmh yea, should be good, and do you have some idea for clamp discoloration?
And sorry I didn't thank you for the awesome review you did for us :D love your channel !!!!