Thank you for this I’ve been struggling with putting gussets in my sleeves I now need to go undo one of my gussets because I putt it on the wrong side of my sleeve😅.
Thank you! I feel like every pattern I use has a different method for attaching gussets and, every time, I get confused. I will try this method next. It makes sense when I'm watching it, but we'll see what happens when I actually do it! I am making a bedgown from a pattern that has gussets. Do bedgowns usually have gussets? The bedgown that I made from your pattern/sew along did not have gussets, so I'm wondering if the non-gusset method is more accurate? Or if some bedgowns had gussets and others didn't?
Hi, yes our bedgown is based on a bedgown probably from the late 60's early 70's with an English provenance. That is not to say gussets were not used but I personally have not seen them in bedgowns.
thanks for making and sharing this tutorial! you said that you find trimming the seam allowance easier than offsetting the seams for felling. is there evidence for a historical preference for one or the other? the ease of trimming versus the not generating cabbage? I assume they look the same on extant garments, but maybe there was writing about it?
So to my knowledge there is not specific writing saying to off-set or trim. In the 18thc linen was woven in shirt and shift widths so the selvage edges could be used which would result in not having to finish the edges which were selvage. I would welcome any primary information anyone has though!
Perhaps this is an odd question but I'm wondering why sewers back then didn't just cut a sleeve shape with ease rather than going the fiddly route of inserting a gusset into an unshaped sleeve.🤔
I'm not sure I can answer that through their perspective, but it makes sense to me that the simple geometric shapes wasted no fabric and also allowed for more variety in fit with the ease of the gusset.
Hi, the gusset is square. When referring to the long and short sides, I am referring to continuous stitching along the gusset and on into the shirt seam or the sleeve seam . Laying those over in one creates the neat appearance.
My personal confusion is knowing when you are working on the right or wrong side of the fabric. But I thank you so much for making this video it has answered many questions and I will try gussets again. 😊
Our evidence shows that is is sewn separate to the body and then stitched in one long seam encompassing the gusset. What is your method Vincent, would love to know.
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge I attach the sleeve to the body and finish that seam, then sew the gusset in on all 4 sides, then close up the long seams on the side and sleeve. Then I fell the side seams and sleeve seam & do the little hems, trim the body and sleeve seam allowances under the gusset, and fold the gusset seam allowances outwards and fell them. (I used to do it the other way for years, but it was more difficult and much less clean. I'm actually working on editing a very long shirt video right now, which is machine sewn, but mostly the same order as I do it by hand.) Modern shirts also have the sleeves sewn on first and then the side and sleeve closed up in one, as do some late 19th century shirts & nightgowns I've seen. I have sadly never had the opportunity to examine any 18th century garments, and I was very surprised to hear that the sleeves were attached at a later step! I suppose it does make sense in the context of an 18th century workshop though, if they wanted to have 3 people working on one shirt so as to finish it as quickly as possible. Like how several tailors could work on the sleeves and fronts of a coat before joining them together later. But for one person working on one shirt, much easier to attach them first!
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Thank You!
Thank you for this I’ve been struggling with putting gussets in my sleeves I now need to go undo one of my gussets because I putt it on the wrong side of my sleeve😅.
Thank you!
Very helpful! Thank you!!
Thank you! I feel like every pattern I use has a different method for attaching gussets and, every time, I get confused. I will try this method next. It makes sense when I'm watching it, but we'll see what happens when I actually do it!
I am making a bedgown from a pattern that has gussets. Do bedgowns usually have gussets? The bedgown that I made from your pattern/sew along did not have gussets, so I'm wondering if the non-gusset method is more accurate? Or if some bedgowns had gussets and others didn't?
Hi, yes our bedgown is based on a bedgown probably from the late 60's early 70's with an English provenance. That is not to say gussets were not used but I personally have not seen them in bedgowns.
thanks for making and sharing this tutorial! you said that you find trimming the seam allowance easier than offsetting the seams for felling. is there evidence for a historical preference for one or the other? the ease of trimming versus the not generating cabbage? I assume they look the same on extant garments, but maybe there was writing about it?
So to my knowledge there is not specific writing saying to off-set or trim. In the 18thc linen was woven in shirt and shift widths so the selvage edges could be used which would result in not having to finish the edges which were selvage. I would welcome any primary information anyone has though!
came to see if I do the gusset different. Stayed for the Mushroom Shirt.
Thanks 😁
Perhaps this is an odd question but I'm wondering why sewers back then didn't just cut a sleeve shape with ease rather than going the fiddly route of inserting a gusset into an unshaped sleeve.🤔
I'm not sure I can answer that through their perspective, but it makes sense to me that the simple geometric shapes wasted no fabric and also allowed for more variety in fit with the ease of the gusset.
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Yes, that makes sense, thank you.
I thought the gusset was square, so was confused when you talked about the short vs. long sides.
Hi, the gusset is square. When referring to the long and short sides, I am referring to continuous stitching along the gusset and on into the shirt seam or the sleeve seam . Laying those over in one creates the neat appearance.
Not terribly clear, and the white on white makes it tricky to see.
Hi, we used a contrasting thread to help with seeing it. Can you point to specifically what is not clear to you and perhaps I can help?
My personal confusion is knowing when you are working on the right or wrong side of the fabric. But I thank you so much for making this video it has answered many questions and I will try gussets again. 😊
@@jerriscott288 ah. Well, I am working on the wrong side of the fabric for this whole video as we are working on the interior of the shirt.
but it's so so much easier and more efficient to sew the sleeve on first :(
Our evidence shows that is is sewn separate to the body and then stitched in one long seam encompassing the gusset. What is your method Vincent, would love to know.
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge I attach the sleeve to the body and finish that seam, then sew the gusset in on all 4 sides, then close up the long seams on the side and sleeve.
Then I fell the side seams and sleeve seam & do the little hems, trim the body and sleeve seam allowances under the gusset, and fold the gusset seam allowances outwards and fell them. (I used to do it the other way for years, but it was more difficult and much less clean. I'm actually working on editing a very long shirt video right now, which is machine sewn, but mostly the same order as I do it by hand.)
Modern shirts also have the sleeves sewn on first and then the side and sleeve closed up in one, as do some late 19th century shirts & nightgowns I've seen.
I have sadly never had the opportunity to examine any 18th century garments, and I was very surprised to hear that the sleeves were attached at a later step! I suppose it does make sense in the context of an 18th century workshop though, if they wanted to have 3 people working on one shirt so as to finish it as quickly as possible. Like how several tailors could work on the sleeves and fronts of a coat before joining them together later.
But for one person working on one shirt, much easier to attach them first!