I'm so excited to have found you! I am going to make one of these for my husband for Christmas alongside my 10 year old granddaughter, who will make one, too. And let my four year old granddaughter make him a linen handkerchief! I love that you do all your work with a thimble on. That's how I operate, too. Though, I use a leather thimble because of my arthritic fingers!
I use a flatiron (for hair) for things I would ordinarily finger press. I mainly work with doll clothes, so I use a flatiron extensively for my pressing needs.
Thanks for this fascinating series. It would help me some if you would show the finished sections as you do them so I can compare my attempt with your example. Thanks
This series is wonderful! Do you wash your linen before you start sewing the shirt? If so, what do you wash it with? Thank you and keep up the great work!
Yay!! Thank you for the details on the neck gussets. I have been struggling with trying to figure them out and have ripped out mine 3 times before setting aside the project in frustration! The diagrams were especially helpful. ✨🙏🏻✨
I hope it’s not too late to ask. But would it be inaccurate to add a second shoulder strip reinforcement on the inside of the garment? I’d like to cover my backstitching to protect it from snags.
It doesn't seem like this was done in the period at the top of the shoulder for the reinforcement that goes from neckband to shoulder. It would certainly add bulk to the area, also. The backstitches should be seated well in the layers of fabric, though, and we haven't known anyone to have issues with them snagging.
Why cutting the gussets diagonal? My original shirts, most german originals from the late 19th century, always use a square piece , which is just folded. And it works perfectly!
We have not found evidence for the 18th or even into the 19th century. Mid 19th century they are still gusseting the neckline to form the curve. You do start to see rounded necklines as you get into the 3rd quarter of the 19thc as styles evolve.
I had all the right pieces for the shirt but never could get the right technique to put it together. I came pretty close but still not like the originals. What really still stumps me is the pleated neck ruffle since there are not two folded edges to put it into like the cuffs. Could you give me a hint on how it is done?
Sure cut a narrow strip of fine linen or cotton muslin. 2 to 2.5 inches longer then the bosom slit x 1to 2 inches wide. Finish three sides with a rolled hem ( in our tutorial playlist) gather the raw edge to the length of the opening using the rolled whipped gather (under our tutorial playlist) To attach to the opening go to our cap sew along and look for the part where we attach the ruffle to the cap. It is the same method. You are doing a small whip stitch whipping the two pieces together ( you can look at the butted whip stitch in our tutorials) Hope this helps!
Slightly late to the sewing party; I hope you're still checking the comments. I'm working my way through this sew-along and finding it very helpful. I'm making a shirt for a very thin young man, so I've cut the smallest size body and the 15.5 collar. I've cut the neck opening exactly as instructed, but there's almost no extra fullness to gather into the collar. Is this correct, or have I made a mistake?
Make sure the neck opening is atleast 2 or 3-inch larger than the neckband (both sides). Perhaps you could reduce the arm reinforcements sizes? For me, its safer to cut the body larger than the wearer (I cut 70cm and the neck opening is still 2 inch larger than the collar. The bigger is better, since if the body seems too big for you, the fabric can be cutted. I'd suggest 80 cm wide body for that boy.
You might want to go up one body size for a neckband at that size. Our smallest body size is much more typical for a man or young man with a 14.5 inch or smaller neck so that may be why you aren't getting very much extra fullness. We'd say to baste the neckband on and have him put on the shirt to see how it feels. It it feels okay, then keep this one as it and make adjustments on the next shirt you make.
What do you do if the reinforcement piece doesn't reach to the end of the neck gusset (mine's about 1/2 inch off)? I've cut everything currently and followed the instructions to a T so I'm confused 🤷🏼♀️😢
Hi Hannah. It sounds like you might have not cut the neckline quite as far open as necessary for the reinforcement to reach. (You can watch Christina show you how to find the right spot at 6:38 in the video.) If you've already stitched your neck gusset it might be easiest at this point to cut new (slightly longer) reinforcements to lay on instead of trying to unpick your gussets and open the neckline up by the 1/2 inch you need.
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Thanks for the reply! I measured in 9 inches from the armscye as instructed so I ended up taking off the gusset (not a huge deal as it's small and felling is quick) and cutting the slit a bit wider.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Possibility of breeches in the future??! :)
We do a great in person breeches workshop!
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge issue is.. I'm in Florida:(
I'm so excited to have found you! I am going to make one of these for my husband for Christmas alongside my 10 year old granddaughter, who will make one, too. And let my four year old granddaughter make him a linen handkerchief! I love that you do all your work with a thimble on. That's how I operate, too. Though, I use a leather thimble because of my arthritic fingers!
I use a flatiron (for hair) for things I would ordinarily finger press. I mainly work with doll clothes, so I use a flatiron extensively for my pressing needs.
Thanks for this fascinating series. It would help me some if you would show the finished sections as you do them so I can compare my attempt with your example. Thanks
These projects are so "do-able" with your great guidance! Can't thank you enough:)
Thank you so much!!
I love this series. My fear of hand sewing is gone. After this, back to tailoring!!!!
This series is wonderful! Do you wash your linen before you start sewing the shirt? If so, what do you wash it with? Thank you and keep up the great work!
Yes you do. We suggest hot water with a cold rinse for maximum shrinkage!
I do wash my linen before I cut my pattern out.😊
I wash it with a nontoxic mild laundry powder I bought in Amazon. It is called Molly’s Suds.
I'm enjoying the sew-along. You make it look so easy, especially gathering the neckline and attaching the collar!
Yay!! Thank you for the details on the neck gussets. I have been struggling with trying to figure them out and have ripped out mine 3 times before setting aside the project in frustration! The diagrams were especially helpful. ✨🙏🏻✨
Another fun chat to listen to while I hand quilt a couch throw! Thank you for posting this video and for all that you do!
Excllently clear and helpful.
I'm still following along even thoguh I dropped outr of actually making my shirt during the sew-along.
Can you guys please bring this fabric back?
I’ve always had such trouble trying to make these shirts! Somehow the neck gusset is never right and doesn’t let the collar lay right 😅
Why not leave the neck gussets in on piece as a square instead of cutting them into triangles?
I hope it’s not too late to ask. But would it be inaccurate to add a second shoulder strip reinforcement on the inside of the garment? I’d like to cover my backstitching to protect it from snags.
It doesn't seem like this was done in the period at the top of the shoulder for the reinforcement that goes from neckband to shoulder. It would certainly add bulk to the area, also. The backstitches should be seated well in the layers of fabric, though, and we haven't known anyone to have issues with them snagging.
Why cutting the gussets diagonal? My original shirts, most german originals from the late 19th century, always use a square piece , which is just folded. And it works perfectly!
Hi Helga these are square pieces folded. Hope this helps
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge I was astonished as in the video the gussets at minute 1.20 are cut diagonal, not folded...
@@Schwimmbacherin cutting is based on 18thc examples. We do see folded in 19thc examples. I hope this helps.
Is there evidence for these shirts made with a curve cut neckline (like a modern shirt)?
We have not found evidence for the 18th or even into the 19th century. Mid 19th century they are still gusseting the neckline to form the curve. You do start to see rounded necklines as you get into the 3rd quarter of the 19thc as styles evolve.
I had all the right pieces for the shirt but never could get the right technique to put it together. I came pretty close but still not like the originals. What really still stumps me is the pleated neck ruffle since there are not two folded edges to put it into like the cuffs. Could you give me a hint on how it is done?
Sure cut a narrow strip of fine linen or cotton muslin. 2 to 2.5 inches longer then the bosom slit x 1to 2 inches wide. Finish three sides with a rolled hem ( in our tutorial playlist) gather the raw edge to the length of the opening using the rolled whipped gather (under our tutorial playlist) To attach to the opening go to our cap sew along and look for the part where we attach the ruffle to the cap. It is the same method. You are doing a small whip stitch whipping the two pieces together ( you can look at the butted whip stitch in our tutorials) Hope this helps!
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge I understand now, thanks
Slightly late to the sewing party; I hope you're still checking the comments. I'm working my way through this sew-along and finding it very helpful. I'm making a shirt for a very thin young man, so I've cut the smallest size body and the 15.5 collar. I've cut the neck opening exactly as instructed, but there's almost no extra fullness to gather into the collar. Is this correct, or have I made a mistake?
I came here looking for the answer to this exact question!!!
Make sure the neck opening is atleast 2 or 3-inch larger than the neckband (both sides). Perhaps you could reduce the arm reinforcements sizes? For me, its safer to cut the body larger than the wearer (I cut 70cm and the neck opening is still 2 inch larger than the collar. The bigger is better, since if the body seems too big for you, the fabric can be cutted. I'd suggest 80 cm wide body for that boy.
You might want to go up one body size for a neckband at that size. Our smallest body size is much more typical for a man or young man with a 14.5 inch or smaller neck so that may be why you aren't getting very much extra fullness. We'd say to baste the neckband on and have him put on the shirt to see how it feels. It it feels okay, then keep this one as it and make adjustments on the next shirt you make.
What do you do if the reinforcement piece doesn't reach to the end of the neck gusset (mine's about 1/2 inch off)? I've cut everything currently and followed the instructions to a T so I'm confused 🤷🏼♀️😢
Hi Hannah. It sounds like you might have not cut the neckline quite as far open as necessary for the reinforcement to reach. (You can watch Christina show you how to find the right spot at 6:38 in the video.)
If you've already stitched your neck gusset it might be easiest at this point to cut new (slightly longer) reinforcements to lay on instead of trying to unpick your gussets and open the neckline up by the 1/2 inch you need.
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Thanks for the reply! I measured in 9 inches from the armscye as instructed so I ended up taking off the gusset (not a huge deal as it's small and felling is quick) and cutting the slit a bit wider.
Quick question, when doing double rows of gathering stitches is it better to start with the row at the edge of the fabric or the second row in?
Truly that’s a personal thing, but if you are keen to measure then do your first row just in from your 1/4 inch and next one up from that
Question: are the shoulder gussets and reinforcements applied to the inside of the shirt or the outside?
The the triangular shoulder gusset is stitched to the outside. The reinforcement is also applie to the outside of the shirt.
Thank you!