Hey guys! No, we didn't give up 😅we were just trying to have some fun with this video intro. Skip to 2:23 if you want to see how we tackle this head work! Thanks for watching!
You guys are in Michigan? It'd be awesome to meet you guys, it seems Michigan is place for insane ideas, Rob Dahm's 4 rotor AWD RX-7, your guy's V10 Ford build and my AWD Dodge Dart
It’s 6:20am. I have the day off. I wish I didn’t find this channel because I would have liked to get stuff done today, but holy hell I can’t stop watching. This is the most incredible build I’ve seen in a while. This beats any engine swap video. I thought a Ferrari powered GT86 was insane. No, not at all. This is insane. This is brilliant. This is truly amazing stuff guys!
Trust me . I know about shops who won’t do stuff . Took me 2-1/2 years to find a shop to balance my crank . Til I found an old school shop that decide to make some v6 bob weights . Never take no for an answer !!
You guys have obviously watched / studied a lot of the same video channels that many of us look forward to seeing like a kid back in the day looked forward to Bugs Bunny! I enjoy your hat's off references / Easter eggs to them. You're learning how to go beyond what is available & create what is needed!!!
This is an awsome build, i just built a 2V v10 that be bored over to 6.9 L and it puts down approx 340 HP, 528 ft lb at the crank, so a 4V should be able to overtake that.
528 ft lbs? Gotta keep me up to date I got a 2v v10 and am looking to get more power out of it. I got twin 38 gallon tanks and am looking have an easier time pulling heavy loads
I'm building a Toyota 2AR which is a 2.5L cylinder. Hoping to go head to head with a Honda K. I'm going to be building my own line boring setup so that I can offset bore the cam journals. That will allow me to increase the length of the valve stems, springs and reduce the cams base circle. In turn this will give me a lot more available lift.
Impressive so far. If it makes it to completion I will be interested in what it makes power wise. Can't wait to see what yall do about the intake manifold, cams, and the bottom end.
sick! I hope it works out. If someone had enough money, cadd software, and a cnc machine you could just make fresh heads. I would reach out to comp cams, they still do v10 2v cams and the the cam staffs are the same from dohc to 2v as far as the shaft itself. The lobe placement is different, but I don't see why they could just do two sets of cams for you. two with all intake lobes and two with all exhaust. Plus I think the stock lobes are pressed on or at least some cams are. Maybe look into to some stock v10 cams and just press the lobes off and DIY them. Good luck guys keep posting!
Realistically the dohc and 2v would have the same firing order so all youd need to tell them is to do two sets one with dr/pass intake lobes and one set with dr/pass exhaust lobes. If not you could weld two set of stock 4v cams together now that the cam towers are line bored!
We will definitely reach out to COMP and a few other shops that do custom parts. Will be reaching out to them this week to kick things off! Also, we had Initially thought about using the 2v cores, like you said, but after further inspection we noticed the lobe spacing is wider on the 2v cams vs the 4v. So we cannot use the 2v cores, unfortunately 🥺 Ideally we can work with one of these shops for custom cams. But if it comes down to it and we can’t buy them, you better believe it we’ll built them!
@@biy_buildityourself comp aint got shit for cores anymore. only place i could find aftermarket cams for the 2v was apocalypse performance. its a long wait but he might be the only one to help with that. i am just getting mine in the next month and its been 4 months
Was thinking billet cnc machined heads myself, but I guess this method will be an economical proof of concept. If it sparks enough interest they could then look into getting machined heads manufactured and maybe retail them! Good work so far, best of luck.
Should be pretty cool results. Reminds me of the few guys who welded together Cleveland V8 heads and adapted them to a 300 I6 back in the '70s. One dude named Sherman Sligh made over 600 hp naturally aspirated with one and ran low 9s with that engine. I think that one had mechanical fuel injection with individual throttle bodies and velocity stacks. All built in his home garage.
Glad you put the goggles on to see it through. Subscribed and amazed 2 vids ago. Currently sitting on my ass watching you two learn excellence, with heart, determination and passion. Meanwhile it doesn't seem to be your day job yet. Bon bon
Just recently found your channel. I think it was the 3D Printed Manifold video that I first noticed, and I still Need to watch this video. Just having time to watch your videos is the difficult part. I came back today to watch your first video of the build just so I can catch up on what's happening with the build. Of course this video was in my recommendations, and it was too tempting to watch. You guys work so well together making things happen, of course I Subscribed. Looking forward to watching the whole series 👍👍
... here, just outside Philly we have a "machine shop" ... called Mardinely's Enterprises ... been in business for DECADES !!! ... can rebuild most anything ... I have seen cars from 1925 and up ... when they just rebuilt my Ford 4.6 4valve ... from the bottom up, he let me walk through the machine shop ... and watch ... THAT IS OL' SCHOOL ... like when I went w/ my father in the 60's when he worked for Studebaker, Mercedes Benz ... SAAB ... etc ... Talk to Dave ... He rebuilds anything ... and can !!!
Don't give up !...Shop around somewhere someplace there is a shop that will do it. When your done n its running take it to those sub parr shops n rub their noses in it
I would suggest KSP Kris Starnes Power down in Florida for any head work you need for the future of the build. He'shonestly the best there is for modular heads.
Same issue I ran into with my rare Ford Motorsports Ecoboost IEP head. It comes with the rear cam cap for the ST 3 lobe style HPFP. I got a RS cap which can hold the 4 lobe HPFP, but I wanted to have it sent out, measured, and if need be, the cap cut and then honed, but every shop I reached out to turned me away. I said screw it and went ahead anyway. The RS cap is .0025 larger, or less than the thickness of a piece of paper, so we’ll just have to find out if it’ll work or fail.
You need to reverse the process to do the outside ones by putting your shims on the inner ones running that rod and cutting the outside too as well front and back that will get it line board perfectly
Now is camshaft couldn't you take and harvest two-valve camshafts and have a milled to have the exhaust load taken off and then another one had the intake lobe taken off the run on your head's???
The lobes on the mod motor cams are actually pressed on. We experimented with pressing them off and putting them back on. But we are really shooting for a high performance level and decided to get to the performance we wanted, we really need to strive for billet cams.
So now you've cut the bores bigger you realise you now have more clearance on the cam. This is why no one has machines to do this work because it's generally just not done. You could machine the caps down but the lower halves will still end up oversized. You also will be changing the cam centre line which can throw other things out of spec. fair enough go ahead and do it your self if it breaks it breaks but shops don't want their names attached to something that is not 100% right.
Even if they didn't use mini insert bearings (which are pretty slick I've used them on Toyota 22re heads), the necessity for custom cams would make it easy enough too make the journal diameters big to match the size they cut to.
@@prtyof4156 Yea I get your point but I still don't recommend trying to align cam journals by cutting them straight. They totally neglect the fact that they will now have different hight spring seats. The cutting contraption they use to cut is actually an idea they stole off another RUclipsr named Keith Fenner. When Keith Fenner used the idea he used it to cut new main caps but leaving the original main journals untouched. These guys are adapting his idea without much thought to the process. When they welded the heads together they should've bolted a couple of bars in place of the cams to keep the heads aligned. After the welding if they cooled the heads down properly there would've been minimal warping.
@Melissa Hill @Shane Rorko Sorry, but are just plain wrong or simply don't understand the concept of line boring. Since there seems to be so much confusion on this we feel an explanation/clarification is in order:
1) There are 2 methods to fixing bores in a split cap bearing system. One method is to remove material from the cap mating surface. This WILL change the centerline of the bore by half the amount removed from the cap (if you take .010" off the caps you move the centerline .005"). This creates an ovular bore that requires machining. The parts can be machined back to circular and to the original diameter. The benefit is that stock size bearings can be used. The other option is to enlarge the bores for oversized (larger OD) bearings. This does not change the centerline but requires usually more expensive or unique bearings. This is the method shown in the video and used by Dura Bond, which is the company that sells the unique bearings for this exact application.
Hey guys! No, we didn't give up 😅we were just trying to have some fun with this video intro. Skip to 2:23 if you want to see how we tackle this head work! Thanks for watching!
You guys are in Michigan? It'd be awesome to meet you guys, it seems Michigan is place for insane ideas, Rob Dahm's 4 rotor AWD RX-7, your guy's V10 Ford build and my AWD Dodge Dart
It’s 6:20am. I have the day off. I wish I didn’t find this channel because I would have liked to get stuff done today, but holy hell I can’t stop watching. This is the most incredible build I’ve seen in a while. This beats any engine swap video. I thought a Ferrari powered GT86 was insane. No, not at all. This is insane. This is brilliant. This is truly amazing stuff guys!
Don't watch Project Binky then.
Trust me . I know about shops who won’t do stuff . Took me 2-1/2 years to find a shop to balance my crank . Til I found an old school shop that decide to make some v6 bob weights . Never take no for an answer !!
You guys have obviously watched / studied a lot of the same video channels that many of us look forward to seeing like a kid back in the day looked forward to Bugs Bunny! I enjoy your hat's off references / Easter eggs to them. You're learning how to go beyond what is available & create what is needed!!!
Build it yourself, sometimes that is the only way to get it done! Good work guys!!
I made some taper bushes to do the thing, to locate in the bearing caps. Thanks for making the video
you guys are so much fun to watch, and the skill yoj guys have developed to br able to MAKE your own high accuracy low tol machinery is so cool
This is an awsome build, i just built a 2V v10 that be bored over to 6.9 L and it puts down approx 340 HP, 528 ft lb at the crank, so a 4V should be able to overtake that.
528 ft lbs? Gotta keep me up to date I got a 2v v10 and am looking to get more power out of it. I got twin 38 gallon tanks and am looking have an easier time pulling heavy loads
@@dustinontaiyabbi5608 get a SCTB96-98, its direct fit, and will help with towing too, from Accufab.
I'm building a Toyota 2AR which is a 2.5L cylinder. Hoping to go head to head with a Honda K.
I'm going to be building my own line boring setup so that I can offset bore the cam journals. That will allow me to increase the length of the valve stems, springs and reduce the cams base circle. In turn this will give me a lot more available lift.
Love it
Impressive so far. If it makes it to completion I will be interested in what it makes power wise.
Can't wait to see what yall do about the intake manifold, cams, and the bottom end.
sick! I hope it works out. If someone had enough money, cadd software, and a cnc machine you could just make fresh heads. I would reach out to comp cams, they still do v10 2v cams and the the cam staffs are the same from dohc to 2v as far as the shaft itself. The lobe placement is different, but I don't see why they could just do two sets of cams for you. two with all intake lobes and two with all exhaust. Plus I think the stock lobes are pressed on or at least some cams are. Maybe look into to some stock v10 cams and just press the lobes off and DIY them. Good luck guys keep posting!
Realistically the dohc and 2v would have the same firing order so all youd need to tell them is to do two sets one with dr/pass intake lobes and one set with dr/pass exhaust lobes. If not you could weld two set of stock 4v cams together now that the cam towers are line bored!
We will definitely reach out to COMP and a few other shops that do custom parts. Will be reaching out to them this week to kick things off!
Also, we had Initially thought about using the 2v cores, like you said, but after further inspection we noticed the lobe spacing is wider on the 2v cams vs the 4v. So we cannot use the 2v cores, unfortunately 🥺
Ideally we can work with one of these shops for custom cams. But if it comes down to it and we can’t buy them, you better believe it we’ll built them!
@@biy_buildityourself comp aint got shit for cores anymore. only place i could find aftermarket cams for the 2v was apocalypse performance. its a long wait but he might be the only one to help with that. i am just getting mine in the next month and its been 4 months
Was thinking billet cnc machined heads myself, but I guess this method will be an economical proof of concept. If it sparks enough interest they could then look into getting machined heads manufactured and maybe retail them!
Good work so far, best of luck.
such great job
Nicely done! You guys are on to something big. Keep going and we'll keep watching.
Should be pretty cool results. Reminds me of the few guys who welded together Cleveland V8 heads and adapted them to a 300 I6 back in the '70s. One dude named Sherman Sligh made over 600 hp naturally aspirated with one and ran low 9s with that engine. I think that one had mechanical fuel injection with individual throttle bodies and velocity stacks. All built in his home garage.
Glad you put the goggles on to see it through. Subscribed and amazed 2 vids ago. Currently sitting on my ass watching you two learn excellence, with heart, determination and passion. Meanwhile it doesn't seem to be your day job yet. Bon bon
You guys have my utmost respect for doing this for your selves
Scott was a bit of a nob 😂
Just recently found your channel.
I think it was the 3D Printed Manifold video that I first noticed, and I still Need to watch this video.
Just having time to watch your videos is the difficult part.
I came back today to watch your first video of the build just so I can catch up on what's happening with the build.
Of course this video was in my recommendations, and it was too tempting to watch.
You guys work so well together making things happen, of course I Subscribed.
Looking forward to watching the whole series 👍👍
You guys are mad scientists!! Absolutely loving this build.
... here, just outside Philly we have a "machine shop" ... called Mardinely's Enterprises ... been in business for DECADES !!! ... can rebuild most anything ... I have seen cars from 1925 and up ... when they just rebuilt my Ford 4.6 4valve ... from the bottom up, he let me walk through the machine shop ... and watch ... THAT IS OL' SCHOOL ... like when I went w/ my father in the 60's when he worked for Studebaker, Mercedes Benz ... SAAB ... etc ... Talk to Dave ... He rebuilds anything ... and can !!!
good job guys, cool project
Well done on the problem solving.
Great problem solving.
Once you start serious modifications you need to do most yourself. You have a lathe and the ability so 👍
Don't give up !...Shop around somewhere someplace there is a shop that will do it. When your done n its running take it to those sub parr shops n rub their noses in it
Y'all Rock
You guys are freaking awesome!
I would suggest KSP Kris Starnes Power down in Florida for any head work you need for the future of the build. He'shonestly the best there is for modular heads.
Thanks for the suggestion! We’ll definitely keep them in mind should we need further work!
Top notch get 'r dun.
Same issue I ran into with my rare Ford Motorsports Ecoboost IEP head. It comes with the rear cam cap for the ST 3 lobe style HPFP. I got a RS cap which can hold the 4 lobe HPFP, but I wanted to have it sent out, measured, and if need be, the cap cut and then honed, but every shop I reached out to turned me away. I said screw it and went ahead anyway. The RS cap is .0025 larger, or less than the thickness of a piece of paper, so we’ll just have to find out if it’ll work or fail.
Love these videos I need these heads!!!
very cool channel guys
You guys are awesome!
When are you guys going to build the headers?
Respect ✊
You need to reverse the process to do the outside ones by putting your shims on the inner ones running that rod and cutting the outside too as well front and back that will get it line board perfectly
Hi Lindsey, we may not have shown it on the video but we did do the outside bores as well. Good catch!
Where did you get all the equipment to do this project ?
Who paid for it ?
Think I'd have went with valve lapping compound and precision rod ?
And just hand lapped it .
Because of the very small size !!!
Little by little...
Lol I had that calc book.
Scott McFee seems very over confident 😂
LOL @ Scott Mcfee. I DON'T think you do the same as these guys, and I DON'T think that they would be straight, if you actually did.
That's what happens when morons, that think they know better, speak clueless bullshit 😂😂
Would you build me a kit to line bore a regular 2v head and how much would it cost
Drill that bearing roll. Guys have been modding bearings to their need for decades
Yall at 131.... yall locals
I wish you wouldn’t have hung the drill so far off the end of the rod.
Yeah, that would be a change to make if we do this again.
Now is camshaft couldn't you take and harvest two-valve camshafts and have a milled to have the exhaust load taken off and then another one had the intake lobe taken off the run on your head's???
The lobes on the mod motor cams are actually pressed on. We experimented with pressing them off and putting them back on. But we are really shooting for a high performance level and decided to get to the performance we wanted, we really need to strive for billet cams.
Not as interesting as ChrisFix changing tie rods or Emelia Hartford destroying every engine she has but you guys will get there.
I swear, if I ever win the lottery I’m funding this into actual kits with real castings….wish me luck.
i think the 3V heads outflow the older 4v heads. Alot of work for no gain. A ported 3V will have gotten you to or above the flow of 4v.
4v V10 heads do not exist
@@pnwchris2000 I think he meant when comparing V8 3v and V8 4v heads. They are using V8 4v heads to create V10 4v head.
Higher revs?
Line boring is not a complicated thing. It may not be worthwhile, but it is definitely doable. You're talking to the wrong people.
So now you've cut the bores bigger you realise you now have more clearance on the cam. This is why no one has machines to do this work because it's generally just not done. You could machine the caps down but the lower halves will still end up oversized. You also will be changing the cam centre line which can throw other things out of spec.
fair enough go ahead and do it your self if it breaks it breaks but shops don't want their names attached to something that is not 100% right.
Yes, the bores are cut bigger to allow us to use cam bearings. Imagine mini main bearings. You can see a bearing next to a bore at 16:18
Even if they didn't use mini insert bearings (which are pretty slick I've used them on Toyota 22re heads), the necessity for custom cams would make it easy enough too make the journal diameters big to match the size they cut to.
@@prtyof4156 Yea I get your point but I still don't recommend trying to align cam journals by cutting them straight. They totally neglect the fact that they will now have different hight spring seats.
The cutting contraption they use to cut is actually an idea they stole off another RUclipsr named Keith Fenner.
When Keith Fenner used the idea he used it to cut new main caps but leaving the original main journals untouched. These guys are adapting his idea without much thought to the process.
When they welded the heads together they should've bolted a couple of bars in place of the cams to keep the heads aligned. After the welding if they cooled the heads down properly there would've been minimal warping.
@Melissa Hill @Shane Rorko Sorry, but are just plain wrong or simply don't understand the concept of line boring.
Since there seems to be so much confusion on this we feel an explanation/clarification is in order:
1) There are 2 methods to fixing bores in a split cap bearing system. One method is to remove material from the cap mating surface. This WILL change the centerline of the bore by half the amount removed from the cap (if you take .010" off the caps you move the centerline .005"). This creates an ovular bore that requires machining. The parts can be machined back to circular and to the original diameter. The benefit is that stock size bearings can be used. The other option is to enlarge the bores for oversized (larger OD) bearings. This does not change the centerline but requires usually more expensive or unique bearings. This is the method shown in the video and used by Dura Bond, which is the company that sells the unique bearings for this exact application.
There's nothing rare about those cars in Michigan. Michigan has countless tracks and events with top fuel cars.
Try a aircraft rebuild company they do the Allisonk, amd merlin V12