I just want to let you guys know, I am currently working on an updated version of this video including some things I've learned, including the Dolby Vision issue and even 5.1 surround sound. The level shifter adapter cable is back in stock and I plan to keep it that way. Despite a nerve injury in my wrist, I have kind of relearned how to solder and everything is back in full swing at this point. The next update video will basically break down what specific Raspberry Pi boards work, how easily they are to configure, and other updates to the website and just things I've learned since this video went up. Rather than just an update video, I'm just going to create a full video without the history lesson about ambilight etc. Make sure you're subscribed and look forward to it within the next week or two. And for those of you who have already built this project, thank you so much for your support. Those of you still on the fence, I think the next video might just push you to say let's do this 😅
@justinNelsonsProjects hi Justin I have all the uquipment ras pi 3b with hyperion 2.0 installed..... I have 224 leds ws2812b around my tv.... however I don't have a 5v 10amp plug I do have a 5v 60amp power unit supply could I wire it upto that instead or would that just blow everything tvs off the wall all ready to wire everything up but I don't know if I can use that power unit
Thank you so much for your kind words, it really makes my efforts worthwhile. I'm actually planning this weekend a slightly updated version, to address a few things about Dolby Atmos and Dolby vision, and the fact that this whole system works really well on a Raspberry pi zero which is super inexpensive compare it to a pi 4b... And I've got a few more updates. I'm really hoping to film it today and hopefully release it tomorrow because I want to wear my Irish Saint Patrick's Day gear LOL. But the kind words, those are the kind of things that make me want to keep doing this. So I thank you so much 🍻 I really wish you the best, and once again just hearing that makes me feel like I'm doing what I should be doing .
Thanks a ton for this video. I was looking to make the switch from regular Hyperion to HyperHDR. I didn't know that there was a 4K USB capture cards since I built my Ambilight 4 years ago and once I got it tweaked to my liking I really didn't do anything else to it. I got a new TV last year so I thought it would be the right time to upgrade the whole thing now. Glad I won't have to spend time tracking down and reading resources. It's amazing how much this project has matured over the years and has so much support now.
Greetings from Turkey. I tried doing it last year but I couldn't succeed. I'll try again by watching your video. I’ve watched a lot of videos on this topic, but I’ve never seen one as detailed and explanatory as this. Yours is the best so far. You’ve really put in a lot of effort. It’s a great video ❤
Beyond everything, first we must appriciate him for delivering such high quality content at this age, and fact he is still delivering it, Thank you so much Justin for the Video, it Really Helps :)
@@kushalsingh.6383 but I do have to say, 49 might sound "old" to you, but my main demographic is between 25 and 44, with a good portion above that (45-54)... And many of the RUclips channels that I personally watch, are run by guys older than myself... See back in our day, you actually had to learn how to do electronic things on your own or from a book or a magazine 😎
I'm trying to watch HDR content with a setup similar to this one, but I can't, Dobly Vision works like a charm but both HDR movies and Games don't get pick up by the capture card (I bought 3 models 2 with MS2109 chip an the other with MS2130, none of those work) and I really want to see my games an HDR movies, do you know of a capture card that can show the HDR function?
I am doing a super deep dive on hdr, Dolby vision, Dolby Atmos and even CEC control. So keep an eye on this channel, once I figure some stuff out I will put together a comprehensive video on how to make each of those things work and hopefully find a product that will make all of those things work.. Just started out as a simple LED project lol, but has really turned into figuring out the specifications and what devices support those and I'm down a very deep rabbit hole right now. Trust me, once I figure all this stuff out, I will put a video together and if you're subscribed you'll get notified when I resolve all this fun stuff
Hey man, great video. I accidentally bought the 3-pin LED, that's why I came across your video because others only use the 4-pin LED. Which port is the data cable (the green one) plugged into on the RP4? If I saw it correctly, pin 6 on the right side from the top?!?!? The green should be the data cable for the LED? Thank you very much for your help
It is in fact the sixth pin down on the right-hand side when the Pi is oriented with the 40-pin header to your right. This is shown clearly on the website BTW... a basic block diagram. Specifically that pin represents GPIO18. However, if you connect the strip's data wire directly to the Pi, you do run a risk of having flickering issues, and possible damage to the Pi itself... it's strongly recommended that you use some kind of level-shifter, as the LEDs expect 5-volt logic, and the Pi is at 3.3-volts... I do sell an adaptor cable, though my stock is low again, I'll be assembling more in the coming days. It *can* work without the level shifter, but it's highly not recommended, even by the maintainers of the HyperHDR project itself...
@@JustinNelsonsProjectsThanks for the info. I hadn't read that far and it was the first time I heard about the level converter. The supply line to the red/white LEDs are connected directly to the 5V power supply, so why are they built into the adapter cable? Thanks for your help
@@berndfronapfel69 the reason I designed that adapter cable is twofold. Number one it incorporates the level shifter going from the pi to the LED strip. And number two, the power supply running the LED strip in turn Powers the raspberry pi. This eliminates the need for an extra wall outlet, aka the USB power adapter. I recommend watching the video all the way through, and checking out the website that I linked to, JustinNelsonsprojects.com/hyperion I explained in pretty good detail the reason for the level shifter, and the convenience of having the power supplied by the LED power supply rather than a separate wall outlet...
@@JustinNelsonsProjects Hi Mann, thank you very much for your work. I gave up on installing the Ambilight. I did everything according to the instructions, but every now and again it doesn't work at one point. It's probably because I grew up with DOS 40 years ago and then Windows came along. I think Linux is the biggest bullshit for private users, sorry. Entries in terminals were made 40 years ago, just one character wrong and you start all over again, what a fuck. I thought I could just do something with the RP4... nope, all bullshit. Sorry, I threw €250 out the window. I wish you all the best. Thanks man
@@berndfronapfel69 I'm sorry you're having such trouble with linux. I did try to make my website as user-friendly as possible, you literally click copy and then click paste in the terminal so there's no room for typos.. I also grew up in the 80s with MS-DOS, and of course later Windows 3.1 and on up through Windows 10. Personally I enjoy the command line and doing things with Linux that you simply can't do on a Windows box or even with DOS... But I also run web servers, which requires that I log in remotely and I wouldn't do it on anything but Linux. But it's all a matter of personal preference....
I'm hoping for tomorrow or over the weekend... I literally have to sit down and assemble these things, and my day job has been keeping me busy... Thanks for your patience. I'm going to just crank out as many as I can in one sitting likely tomorrow (Friday) and as soon as I have any stock, I'll update the store.
New stock available! I've made a few, and more will come, it's first-come first-served... 9ac025-3.myshopify.com/products/raspberry-pi-4-ws2812b-adaptor-cable
UPDATE (April 5, 2024): I've updated the website to reflect the new 20.0.0.0 release of HyperHDR. If you want to UPGRADE from 19 to 20, FIRST BACK UP YOUR CONFIGURATION. In the web config, click the Menu, select General, and tap EXPORT and save the config file (you can do this with your phone or PC). Then, follow the instructions in this section of the tutorial: justinnelsonsprojects.com/hyperion/step4.php#installing Once you get to the "Configuration" heading, STOP. Once the Pi reboots, go back into HyperHDR web config, go to Menu -> General, and click IMPORT. Select the file you just saved from your 19 configuration, and everything should "just work" :) I just did this myself on the Pi Zero 2 W. --- March 3 Update: DOLBY VISION CONFIRMED WORKING! Using this splitter, with the EDID switch set to "COPY 1", the TV connected to "HDMI OUT 1" and a capture device on "HDMI OUT 2", it successfully passes Dolby Vision out to the televisioni!! * amzn.to/3utBa43 With that, you can then use a simple capture device (since you've already split the signal), and I recommend this one: * amzn.to/48iRXog That one accepts 4k or 1080p, and works quite well under Linux (aka the Pi)... Also, update video coming soon, as I'm learning about other Pi models that may/should work with HyperHDR... so be sure you're subscribed! Limited quantities of the Level-Shifter/Adaptor Cable are back in stock as well... Jan. 31, 2024 UPDATE: International Shipping is now available! Rather than free shipping, I lowered the price so US orders will come out about the same, and now you can buy from just about any country! * 9ac025-3.myshopify.com/products/raspberry-pi-4-ws2812b-adaptor-cable Feb. 7, 2024 UPDATE: I've added a page to the tutorial for those who's television cannot be detected directly, to turn the LEDs on and off using your Phone: * justinnelsonsprojects.com/hyperion/turnitoff.php --- At long last, after MONTHS of shooting, reshooting and editing...The Ambilight 2.0 Update video is done! 😎 Pro Tip: RUclips doesn't always show the video in full 4k even on a 4k TV. Find the "gear" icon, and select "Quality", then choose "2160p" to experience the true beauty of 4k... A couple of things I didn't mention in the video: First, you do NOT have to start the strip on the left-hand side of the TV. Pick whichever side is most accessible to you when the TV is in its final position. Simply click "Reverse" in the HyperHDR config later on if you use the right-hand side (left if you're looking at the back of the TV). Also in this case, the "L" adaptors might not line up the PLUS and MINUS -- this is irrelevant really. As long as PLUS is on the same side of the bracket on both ends, it'll work just fine. Not really sure why they even specify it like that... If I think of anything else I left out, or if you think of something, let me know and I'll update this pinned comment.
Hello Justin. Decided to upgrade to 20 FROM 19 and again couldn't get into your website. Last time it was down to malwarebytes but this time I had to go through my vpn for some reason. Anyway I followed your excellent tutorial again and came across an omission. In the "Install HyperHDR" section you show how to get the OS updates but have left out the command to install them, "sudo apt-get upgrade". 😉 Great work though!!
Hi Justin! Nice video ! Did you find the way to make it work with Dolby Vision? I try the Ezcoo downscaler but I still have the wrong color only when listen to Dolby vision movie. Thanks for your work!👍🏼
I am still working on a solution for that. I only own one TV that even does Dolby vision, and that's in my complicated living room setup with a splitter, a switch box so I can use multiple inputs, and all of that also goes to a whole house distribution box LOL.... Like I said, my living room is a little overly complicated... I will do an update video once I come up with a solution that works.
I just need one quick clarification to make sure I'm understanding. Are the colors wrong on the leds, or are the colors wrong on the television? Because that's two entirely different issues, and I really need to know which to investigate... If the color is wrong on the tv, obviously the splitter or downscaler is stripping information from the video signal. If the colors are wrong on the leds, that would be a totally different issue that can be fixed within HyperHDR. So you're clarification would help, you're not the first person to say the colors were messed up but it occurred to me that I don't know which colors you guys are referring to. Obviously if it's on the TV itself that's a major issue and I will spend however much time and money it takes to find a solution. Unfortunately it boils down to whether or not the splitter or capture device has licensed the Dolby technology. I mean even back in the day, if you had a cassette player with Dolby noise reduction, that had to be licensed. And unfortunately these cheap Chinese products that we all have grown to love, don't necessarily have proper licensing, and sometimes the description can be misleading... So I am going to spend the next few days or weeks and I will find a product that will do the video splitting without stripping out the Dolby encoding... The only downside I see, is I fear that I will find a product that does exactly what we want it to do, but cost way more due to the fact that they are actually paying Dolby for the license...
And by the way if any of you guys following this thread want to support my efforts, a small super thanks on the video or even a RUclips membership, can help me purchase, evaluate, and find the exact combination that works with Dolby vision, Dolby atmos, hdr10 and the rest... Only do so if you can afford it and if it's something you wish to do. I don't do these videos for the money, I do them because I really enjoy making them. But any help from the community is always appreciated 😀
The colors on my TV are perfect. The problem is definitely in leds/application/equipment. When I use any other source (SDR, HD, FHD, UHD, HDR, HDR10) everything works. But when it's Dolby Vision, all the colors are wrong (it results in pink/purple on ). I have the impression that the equipment supports 10 bits for HDR but when you drop to 12 bits for DV, it's too many colors. 3 possible causes: 1: my video grabber which does not support DV (I ordered another one but I don't believe that is the solution), 2: raspberry PI which does not support DV, 3: The application that doesn't support DV (BTW, Hyperion doesn't work either). Maybe the license like you mentionned also.. Here's a link from someone else with the same dilemma. See the April 18 post from "The" which explains the differences with the downscaler Ezcoo (with Hyperion): hyperion-project.org/forum/index.php?thread/11876-when-viewing-using-dolby-vision-the-usb-grabber-outputs-the-video-weird-with-sha/ Thanks for you help! @@JustinNelsonsProjects
In case you missed the pinned comment, I have confirmed that Dolby Vision passes through from Netflix on my Streaming Box, through this splitter: * amzn.to/3utBa43 Using this splitter, with the EDID switch set to "COPY 1", the TV connected to "HDMI OUT 1" and a capture device on "HDMI OUT 2", it successfully passes Dolby Vision out to the televisioni!! Then instead of a "pass-thru" capture device, you can use this inexpensive one that works really well: * amzn.to/48iRXog I have also confirmed that my 4-in, 2-out HDMI switcher ALSO passes Dolby Vision content: * amzn.to/49UdioZ Nice when you want to use multiple inputs with the Hyperion, at full 4k HDR/Dolby Vision all in-tact. Hopefully this resolves the Dolby Vision issues entirely. Update video coming soon...
Hey man, I'm coming in from another, older tutorial on youtube but I'm thinking of returning everything I bought and trying your method out because this other creator/their discord aren't willing to help troubleshoot. Basically I'm dealing with a few problems: One, my TV is a Hisense U8K, which is a Dolby Vision IQ system, which doesn't play nicely with the Capture Card. So having to disable HDR to use ambient lighting is a bummer. Do you happen to know if your system is compatible with Dolby Vision? Second, I'm using a Raspberry Pi Zero W. I'm having problems with my sound cutting out, and there's very little information I can find regarding this problem. I am wondering if it is possibly a power issue? Or something else. I raise this issue to you because if it's not a power issue, I'm concerned about it happening even with a Pi 5 Anyway your video is very informative and you clearly take a lot of time in helping your community out, mad respect and thanks for the great video. Keep it up!
I had such a long reply typed up, and I hit the ESC button on my keyboard 😒 But I'll try to recall what I had typed. Firstly, yes it gets a little tricky with Dolby Vision, as "technically" a pass-thru/splitter/capture device would need to be licensing that tech from Dolby, even just to pass it through or split the signal... In my overly-complicated Living Room setup (not the one in the video), I actually use this: * amzn.to/4bN9lV8 It's a 4-in, 2-out HDMI switcher, with the ability to downscale output B to 1080, while copying the EDID exactly from output A (so the input device selected, just thinks it's connected to the television directly). This also allows me to use my XBox and Wii consoles with Hyperion, as well as my streaming box 😎 Now, as for the Pi Zero, I have no experience with those... but if you are saying the audio is cutting out on the TV (but not the video?) -- I suppose it *could* be a power issue. Perhaps a beefier PSU would help. Honestly I'm not sure exactly how you would have that connected to the capture device (OTG cable?) -- I'd need a bit more info on that to give you any kind of solid answer there... Let me know if any of this helps. Looking at the price, I might just pick up a Pi Zero W to experiment with, and maybe add that to the website and/or video description if it ends up being a viable alternative... Thanks for the kind words, I do make a point to respond to my viewers as quickly as I can -- and yes, a lot of effort went into this video. In fact I shot it at least 5 times, each time, finding something to make the project just a tiny amount easier, then re-shooting lol... I really wanted to get this one right (I'm a little OCD / perfectionist lol)...
I just looked at a different Pi Zero W kit on Amazon and I do see that one Micro-USB is in fact an OTG (so it can be used as a "host" with Type-A devices)... I think I'm going to order that $35 kit and see if it could work with my Hyperion setup... The one I'm looking at is this: * amzn.to/3T7qFwR
I just ordered a Pi Zero W kit w/case, and I'll be experimenting with that for the Hyperion project. One thing you might try -- I don't know if you are powering the Pi Zero W via my adaptor cable (or via the GPIO *header* (edited for clarity!) directly in some other way), or via the USB power supply. If you are using the 2.5 amp PSU, and letting that *also* power the LED strip, that's simply not enough power... again more info would help me determine the best options for you to get everything set up correctly. Feel free to reach out via email if you don't want to continue this in the Comments section -- Justin@JustinNelsonsProjects.com -- but doing so here may help others as well... totally up to you
Hey again my dude! Funny that, I just checked the thread and you commented a minute ago. Glad to continue the discussion here for posterity's sake lmao Basically I'm following Everything Smart Home's guide. ruclips.net/video/J26oYlKyq7Q/видео.html (linked to when the wiring starts) tl;dw, pi zero is powered via microUSB from a 5v 10a barrel jack PSU, with the LED strips hooked up to the same PSU using the same barrel jack connector (positive and negative wires as appropriate.) The pi turns on just fine, the lights all work beautifully. The data microUSB port on the pi zero is connected/powering solely the capture card. In terms of why I suspect it might be a power issue, it's just what I get when poking around the net. I'm only speculating, and it truly could be any number of things. Totally possible I have a bad capture card unit, for example, or any number of user errors along the way. That said, everything else seems to be working adequately. How much power would a capture card need? What is the throughput from the zero W data mUSB? I should look into this on my end, too, and see what I drum up. If it's helpful, I'll take some pictures of my setup and send them to your email, and we can keep the discussion going here. But, I truly do have it set up practically exactly like in the video. It's a sleek setup and the zero W is really conveniently priced, with wifi-enabled ssh, it's a sleek setup if I can get it working. Though if I can't get it working with HDR/Dolby Vision, I may have to figure something else out entirely.. hmm Anyway thanks again brother, you're doing great work and I appreciate your help so much.
@@avromostlund5166 I honestly don't think the pi is the problem here, because if you're using the capture device I recommended, it is quite literally passing the signal straight through to the television and just sort of sniffing it if you will, for the pi and Hyperion to gather the information it needs. So if you're getting audio glitches, it might just be a defective capture device. Or it could be an out of spec USB or HDMI cable. I hesitate to blame the pi for the issue... Because what is being passed on to the television is literally being passed straight through, it's not being processed by the Raspberry pi computer at all at that point. I will know for sure tomorrow when my pi zero w arrives, I'm literally just going to stick an SD card in there with the OS and just see what it does on my own television. It could very well be a good candidate for this project which I would very much be happy with, because that could reduce the for others wanting to build a similar setup. It's literally like a third of the price of a pi 4 with a case and a fan and all that.. I'm honestly thinking it might be the capture device itself... But again, I won't know for sure until I get my hands on the pi zero which is literally tomorrow but I do have to work tomorrow so I might not get to actually play with it till Thursday or friday. But I appreciate you approving of continuing this conversation in a public forum where others May learn, and I can't thank you enough for watching my video and engaging in the comments. It means a lot to me, truly.
Hi Nelson, great tutorial! I have installed everything following your blog tutorial. I have all connected but i pluggin gpio18 from rpi 3model b (6th pin from top left) to the green cable of the led strip. the rpi is powered by a micro usb with a 5v 3.3A supplier and the led strip with another supplier of 5v 10A. Also teh 4k 60hz is with all hdmi and usb connected... The only led that is on is the first and in red, the rest are off. I tried to test some effects but no result, only first led in red... do you know what Im doing wrong? the data cable from rpi to led strip is directly and i see that you have a circuit in-between, does it necessary i have been reading other tutorials and they say that is not strucitly necessary. What do you think? thanks in advance.
Firstly, make sure you have HyperHDR configured properly; usually if only ONE LED is lit, that indicates that you missed this step: justinnelsonsprojects.com/hyperion/step5.php Also, make sure you ALSO have a ground connection between the Pi and the LED strip -- otherwise it won't receive data at all. Finally, though you can get away without a level-shifter, it is mostly not recommended. Firstly, if you accidentally short one of the bare copper + pads to the data pad... that could send 5 volts to a 3.3v GPIO, thus most likely damaging the Pi. Second reason, is that at only 3.3v logic level into a 5-volt strip, interference can cause flickering and other odd behavior on the LEDs. At 3.3v, the "turn-on" state of the LED chip is *just* barely above the threshold. This can vary from one strip to the next but I wouldn't rely on it personally... Best of luck, I hope some of this helps!
@@JustinNelsonsProjects Hi again Nelson, about led supply, I am supplying it with 5v 10A, not 3.3v. And pi with 5v 3.3A, not 3.3v, so i think if i configure ok the steps you mention i shouldnt have problems with led strip. The Led strip is a 60 leds per meter (5 meters =300 leds) type ws2812b, i have some of them working with ESP32, WLED and supplying them with 5v 8A without any problem. Now im working, but this afternoon ai try to fix it. Thank you so much!
@@LuisPeris one aspect that I think you're confusing, is the fact that even though you supply the Raspberry Pi with 5 volts, internally it converts it to 3.3 for its logic. So when you pull a gpio pin high, it is at 3.3 volt logic, not the 5 volts that the LED strip expects. That is where the differentiation comes in. I'm working on a video currently comparing different LED strips and actually controlling the logic level voltage, to show the minimum voltage that each strip considers to be "high"... In that video, I filmed a simple breadboard circuit with a potentiometer and a fluke meter to demonstrate at what voltage the LED strips stops responding to signals reliably. It is a common misconception because you do in fact power the pie with 5 volts, but the only reason for that is because it has to power USB ports. The actual Pi computer does in fact run at 3.3
Thank you so much, you don't know how much it means when people support my work! Oddly enough I was just finishing an update video just as you made this donation, be sure to check it out! Thanks again for your support!
@@JustinNelsonsProjectshi Justin, I watched countless videos and visited countless websites, but only with your instructions did I get the Ambilight to work. At that time I wanted to send you a donation, but when there was no answer to my question, I didn't donate anything to you. The ambilight hasn't worked since yesterday and I got error messages that I didn't understand. Then I went to your website and saw that you had new instructions online. After these instructions my ambilight worked again. I think there was an update that caused the error. When my Ambilight started working again with your instructions, that was the immediate reason to send you a donation. It's not a pizza recipe that tastes good or not, it's also about parts like the cables, the HDMI splitter, the HDMI converter, the LED strips, so it's about money. I'm happy to give something in return to someone who helps me succeed. I would like to thank you from the bottom of my heart for your help, greetings from good old Germany
@@berndfronapfel69 Maybe it has something to do with the time difference (you paid in Euros so I assume you're a few hours ahead of me, I'm at GMT-6)? LMFAO 😜 (Lame time travel joke)
Im trying to find parts so that I can set this up behind my monitor. But I get more confused after every video I watch. Some people do this with Arduino & raspberry pi. Some people do it without the logic level shifter and so on. You seem to be the only person knowing what’s going on. What setup should I go with and what parts do I need? Thanks, great video bdw
I'm actually working on a follow-up video that involves doing this to a PC monitor rather than a television. And the steps are a lot simpler for that use case. Keep an eye on this channel in the next week or so, I'm working on a different project at the moment but my next video after that will be a PC monitor version. The short version though, is that if you're running it on a pc, you do not need a Raspberry pi or capture device. Hyperion/HyperHDR can run on the PC directly itself and just use a screen grab. The only thing you need beyond that is some kind of microcontroller, and for a smaller monitor you might could get away with an Arduino nano. If the monitor is larger you'll need an ESP chip that can keep up with the data rate of more LEDs... And since ESP chips run at 3.3 volts, a level shifter is highly recommended... Again a video targeting specifically doing this for your PC is coming very soon so make sure you subscribed or at least check in on the channel every now and then...
I replied to your comment on the other video but I'll reiterate here, as long as there are enough resources available, Linux is excellent at multitasking so you shouldn't have any issue running home assistant and hyper hdr on the same pi. But if it ends up being glitchy or just not working, it might be worth simply picking up a Raspberry Pi zero 2 W... That's what I use on my bedroom TV and it works perfectly. Just make sure the number two is in there, the original Pi zero is 32-bit and has a very hard time keeping up with the LEDs.
@@JustinNelsonsProjects Thank you very much for your reply it really helped me so far. Another one I was asking myself was, if I should put my Wled light installations on the Pi Zero (where HyperHDR is on) or on the one with Homeassistant. I am still unsure if homeassistant takes more power or the light stuff and how to allocate the tasks to the right „computer“. Or maybe its even worth it to go for another ras 3 or 4?
@@jangobeast7251 Firstly, this project (as I do in my video) does NOT use WLED at all. A dedicated Raspberry Pi Zero, following the installation instructions on my website, along with my level shifter / adaptor cable, is all you need. Your Home Assistant Pi can (and should) be a completely separate computer... You might want to re-watch the video, along with the update video I link at the end... to get a better understanding that this is a stand-alone project, requiring NO extra microcontroller (ESP etc) and NO WLED... hope this helps
In theory if the receiver is 4K capable and all that, there should be no problem with that. I use a 4-in, two out HDMI switch box so that I can use different sources. If the receiver only has one HDMI output, you would still need to split that signal with a splitter, so that you can capture to the Raspberry pi as well.
Thank you so much for the in-depth dive! I finally got all the parts and am trying to follow step by step, but am having a hard time finding out which components might be testable. I’m not getting any response from the lights other than the initial first led light-up. Is there some way we can test which of the components might be causing it? Live video works on my hyperhdr site, so the switch and capture card must be working.
Make sure you go through all the steps on the website, if you don't tell hyper HDR how many LEDs are on each side, that's exactly what it will do, light up one LED . Let me know if that helps, but that is the most common reason why only one LED lights up
@@JustinNelsonsProjects that was part of it. It also helped me notice I did a really dumb mistake. I connected the adapter flipped (data on the 5v pin)… importance of following instructions. Thank you so much!
@@IScrappycocoI I didn't want to give this a thumbs down because mistakes are mistakes... But I'm glad you got it sorted out and it did not fry your Raspberry Pi because that could easily happen in that situation. If I had a color laser printer, the instruction sheet would probably make it a slight bit more obvious. Instead I just typed the word red and, skip this pin. But I'm happy to hear that your Raspberry Pi survived, let us know if you get the whole setup running correctly and looking nice. And thanks so much for your support!
Hi Nelson, finally I have made it work. I have bought an 4k capture card that is supposed to passthrough 4k HDR but the HDR videos not playing HDR, do I miss something? I have enabled HDR global but still not working. Thanks in advance
@@mashood9571 that's actually a feature I've been experimenting with in my own living room. I have a white strip of LEDs on the wall behind my couch. They light up according to the overall brightness of the screen. So if suddenly there's a flash of lightning or an explosion on the screen, the whole room kind of lights up a little bit... I've been meaning to put a project together and make a video on that, it does involve a little more including an esp32 in order to control the extra 12 volt lights. But it is a pretty immersive experience... When I have some time maybe I will sit down and walk through it. It's not for the faint of heart, it does involve some soldering and using mosfet transistors etc but, I will try to make it as easy as possible...
Great video . if i make only wled project it is possible to run it directly from my pc using hyper hdr? Also about sacrifitial led i need only to use black tape ? possible i need to add code also...
You most certainly can, but as I recommended to another commenter, make sure you run WLED on an ESP32 or something with a fast-enough UART. The ones on most Arduino's max out at 115,200 baud -- not generally fast enough to do 30 frames per second on any sizeable TV screen... in fact that math is presented in my older video. However, one thing I regret even putting in that first video, is the whole "sacrificial LED" thing. That is one mistake in my older video; I didn't have a good of an understanding of these LED strips... the "sacrificial LED" really is a total hack that should never be used. It's unreliable trying to use that first LED as a "level shifter"... There are a couple methods that work a little better, but you have to insert a diode to drop the 5v down to ~4.3, only on that FIRST LED, so that it'll more readily accept the 3.3v logic. So little stepping stones from 3.3 -> 4.3 -> 5... but again, it's just as "hacky" as it sounds, and I wish I could edit just that one part out of the previous video (I'm going to add a pinned comment on that video addressing this)...
Does this setup capture protected content e.g. from Netflix or Prime produce light accordingly? Can this setup be changed to use a windows home server to somehow capture the TV output instead of a Pi?
Realistically, with any pass-through capture card, you could very easily capture 4K video from just about any external video source such as a streaming box. But you would not need a Raspberry pi to accomplish this, all you would really need is OBS Studio which is open source... The trick with those passed through capture devices is that the streaming source itself only sees the television. So any DRM preventing capture doesn't even know it's being captured. Not that I condone such use of course 😉 For the purposes of the ambilight, I use mine all the time with netflix, hulu, Amazon prime etc.
Sorry, using my phone I had missed the second part of your question. In fact, yes, you can use a Windows PC (that's how my Living room TV is set up) but you'll need an ESP32 (or similar) to actually drive the LEDs. See my previous video for details: ruclips.net/video/ZjOl7Bn6Ec0/видео.html
I do not have first-hand experience with any other Pi versions, however at least one viewer mentioned having success with the Pi 3b -- so it's entirely possible. For the record, I believe the Pi 5 is also fully (mostly?) backward-compatible. But I can only speak specifically about the 4 model B as that's the only unit I've had personal experience with. EDIT: Thanks to another commenter, I ordered myself a Pi Zero W, and am going to find out if even that might be suitable for this project. I'll for sure update the video description AND website as I find more Pi models confirmed to work with my particular variation of this project!
@@bbkingneo thank you for clarifying that. I'm actually going to test on a pi zero w sometime this weekend, I'm not sure if it has the horsepower but it might. If it does, I will totally update the website and of course I'm going to throw a video update along with a few other Dolby Vision related updates I'm working on. Looking at the CPU usage on the pi 4, I don't think Hyperion really uses that many CPU cycles overall... In fact I got tired of hearing the little fan and I just disconnected it. Never overheats and never throttles, so that's saying something...
Are you referring to his "home-designed level shifter/jumper wires" harness thingy? If so, there are many videos and articles online about using Hyperion and how to set it up/wire it out there. That said, I personally do not use a level shifter or level shifting controller on ANY of my ~5 or 6 LED strip setups around the house, including on my bedroom TV Hyperion Ambilight, and I've had none of the issues associated with an under-voltage data signal. The RGB LED strip master, QuinLED, states that a voltage level shifter is unnecessary if the data wire between your LED controller and light strips are less than ~1 meter long. In other words, you don't really need that component. You will simply need to either do a little very basic soldering, or buy a few "wago lever nuts" to splice wires together, and a few "female to male breadboard jumper wires" or "female to female breadboard jumper wires," (Google the parts in quotes), all that really matters is that the jumper wires have a female connector on at least one side, you will be cutting the connector off of one side, stripping back the wire insulation a little bit, and inserting it into the Lego lever nut wire splicing thingies. Basically, the female breadboard wires are how you connect to the Raspberry Pi pins, and you just need a way to connect that to the wire pigtail that comes on the end of basically every RGB LED strip you can buy. They usually come with a connector with loose wires. You can also connect the power supply wires, the power input wires of the Pi, and the LED strip power wires all together in the same Wago lever nut things together. All the positive wires can go into one lever nut (even if it's only a 2 port lever nut, just twist any two of them together and put them in one port) and same with negative/ground wires. Or to be even fancier and have a faster and more responsive setup, buy an ESP32 dev board and solder the wires on yourself (Google WLED tutorial if you still need help with where to connect the wires) or buy a QuinLED Dig-Uno, an ESP32 LED controller board with WLED pre-installed that also has a built in voltage level shifter on the data output pins, and has screw down wire terminals so you'll need to do zero soldering. It's pretty easy to wirelessly connect the WLED instance to your HyperHDR instance. Again, quite a few "Hyperion with WLED" tutorials online if you Google it. Sorry if I only confused things more, I had no idea what your level of electronics knowledge is so trying to be detailed 😅 good luck, it's not too hard. The hard part is getting a capture card/TV streaming box/HDMI splitter (if necessary)/AV receiver/TV that all play nice together as far as HDR/Dolby surround/4k/HDCP copyright protection blah blah blah... I'm on month 2 of trying to get my setup working properly with CEC control between my TV, Chromecast and surround speakers, 4k HDR @60Hz passthrough etc etc... I FINALLY just today got the hardware part working and this video helped a lot with setting up HyperHDR :) And btw, if you don't care about HDR, regular Hyperion.ng works amazingly well. I only want HyperHDR because it runs faster.
The short, simple version is: if you can afford it and want simple setup, Google "QuinLED Dig-Uno" and buy one, it will save you some headache. Unless you have and know how to use a soldering iron or have a friend who does, in which case, just solder the wires yourself :) Google Hyperion Ambilight tutorial and you'll find more info
The other replies on this thread are valid to a point. You often can get away without a level shifter, it really depends on what batch of LED strip you ended up with, but for proper usage it is recommended to have a high impedance input level shifter with a low impedance output... My goal in creating the device was to just make it a simple plug and Play for those not willing to solder or crimp their own connectors together. It is certainly not 100% required especially if you do have some level of electronics knowledge. I just wanted to make a device that simplifies the process for those lacking electronic skills. In order to ship outside the US unfortunately it's a limitation with my Shopify account, I am looking into ways to ship outside the us. Technically I could put the product on eBay and let eBay handle the overseas shipping, though eBay takes a pretty large percent and my margins are very thin on the device as it is... It is definitely something I'm trying to address because I do know that I have an audience outside the US...
@@outbakjak Hey, thank you for that lenghty reply. I really went in on that Hyperion stuff with reading guides and so on. Because it's not just cheaper then the plug and play systems - it also looks better imo What i came up with now is this setup: - My Pi4B Running HyperHDR - HDMI USB Capture Card - WS2812B 5m 60/m Led Strip - 5V 10A 50W Power Supply - HDMI Splitter with HDR HDCP 2.2 (i saw a video where he used a fancy Splitter that did the HDR to SDR Tone-Mapping on board but with HyperHDR i don't need that because it has software sided Tone-Mapping right?) - DC Barrel Jack Adapter - 3 Jumper Wires M to F This is the shopping list from a single tutorial so i'd hope that's all i need - but he used Hyperbrian instead of HyperHDR so i don't know if these to are so easily exchangeable with the exact same hardware. I was looking for a solderless solution - i have soldered before but i'm really fumble-fingered when it comes to these small things I also got some L Connectors but i'm not sure if i'll use them maybe you can help me with that after setting up multiple LED Systems. I saw multiple sites using that L-Fold which seems to not put to much strain on the Strip. So i have 4 questions at the moment. - Am i missing something hardwarewise? - Whats your opinion on corners? Do you solder, bend, fold, pinch, L-Connector or whatever many others options there are - I have a 65 Inch TV with reducting 5cm of the edge i would use about 420cms of LED Strip which would come to about 250 Leds. I've read that i may need to inject another power source into the system or should i just tune it down in HyperHDR to not go 100% - adding to that on the tutorial he writes this about the 3 Jumper Wires: "The red wire is the power wire which I attach to the 5V power of the Pi. If you are using a larger power supply than the 4 Amps I have here I would power the Raspberry Pi instead via the official USB-C power supply and not connect this red wire. The Green wire is the signal wire which I attached to GPIO 18 Pin on the Raspberry Pi. The White wire is the ground of the GPIO Pin which I attach to a ground pin of the Raspberry Pi." With the Pi and the Led Strip on different Power Supplies i would only connect the GPIO 18 and ground wire right? EDIT: I didn't bother with WLED for now because i'm not sure about the latency despite most people seeming to have no problem at all. But i'll definetly getting into that. I'm a software developer and really didn't know about any of this like 4 days ago.. WLED seems really awesome but i don't think i'll bother using it behind my tv EDIT 2: sumbitch.. „Do not use Raspberry Pi to directly control neopixel LEDs such as ws2812b or sk6812. Use an external ESP32 or ESP8266 module for this purpose, preferably communicating and powered directly from Rpi… If you ignore point 4, we remind you that direct driving ws2812b / sk6812 from Raspberry Pi is NOT officially supported (due to many potential and hard to diagnose problems) and you are then on your own.“ - HyperHDR GitHub
This is intentional to keep the project as simple as possible. You most certainly could inject power to the other end of the strip, OR even tap it in the middle somewhere to keep the current level more even throughout the entire strip... but my goal here was to make a solder-free version, for people who don't wish to solder or invest in crimping tools, etc... Also note that in the video (or maybe in the online tutorial...) somewhere, I mention that it's best to NOT have the brightness of the LEDs cranked. Mostly because, if the LEDs are brighter than the actual TV, they are no longer "ambient" ;) Less is more... and by not fully cranking the LEDs, there's really no need for extra power injection, unless you're working on a VERY large TV...
Great video i got to all setup it all up using a raspberry pi 3+ just can't get the auto turn off and on with tv I followed your tutorial but unfortunately didn't work for me any more suggestions? My tv is a LGWebostv thanks
Unfortunately I don't own any LG TVs... but if you can find a way, in its own settings, to turn off the WiFi when powered off (might be under an Eco setting, Power settings, or even the network settings) then the "ping" method should work... Other than that, you can just log into your Pi using the ip address and :8090, click the menu, then click "Remote Control", scroll down and toggle "LED Device" to On and Off... you can easily create a shortcut to that page on your phone... I will update the website with this additional tip, with screenshots, as I realize some TVs simply won't be able to do any kind of auto-detection of its power status... especially if it's not even a Smart TV... EDIT: I've added the page to the tutorial: * justinnelsonsprojects.com/hyperion/turnitoff.php
Okay, so after some reading, I *might* be able to add LG support directly; for now, though, you SHOULD be able to use the "ping" method. To quote from what I literally just added to the web tutorial: On some LG TVs, you'll need to go to the Settings menu, then General and then Mobile TV On and set that to OFF -- this ensures that the WiFi in fact shuts down when the TV is powered off. Let me know if this helps...
Thanks for all your help but unfortunately it still didn't work also cant log on to hyperhdr on my phone or any other device just keeps saying no authorization. i can still log on using my desktop computer so not sure what's happening there but thanks again for your suggestion
@@stevebaker9691 Make sure your phone is on the same WiFi network as the Raspberry Pi... and make sure the URL (IP address : port, 8090) is correct... There's no reason you shouldn't be able to pull it up on your phone, in fact that's exactly how HyperHDR was designed... Let me know if any of this helps, and again thanks for watching!
@@JustinNelsonsProjects yeah check and doubled check all that is correct. think am just going to fitting a switch to the led circuit to switch them off and on
An 8266 still uses 3.3v logic. You still *should* use a level shifter... my method incorporates the level shifter while protecting the Pi from any accidental backfeed of 5v to the GPIO pins (think, accidentally crossing the 5v pad with the "data" pad on the LED strip for example)...
@@JustinNelsonsProjects so, the 8266 isn’t actually required? I tried to set this up on my tv quite a while ago. I would set it up and it would work for a couple days and then it would just stop, and never work again, or one led would dimmly light before it stopped working. I couldn’t figure out what the problem was and got very frustrated. I kind of blamed it on the power supply / wiring that’s to small. I have a good proper power supply now and some good gauge wire and I want to try this again, and I thank god I came across your tutorial here because it seems straight forward and to the point. All of the other tutorials I’ve found incorporated the level shifter and the 8266. That is a lot of extra wiring and stuff that could possibly cause issues. The fact that your tutorial doesn’t use the 8266 is awesome because that means there is less wiring and less things to cause problems.
Absolutely! I realize I have mostly focused on TVs but yes, HyperHDR can run on Windows / Mac as well as Linux... this could easily enough be applied to a PC monitor 🙂 I have other projects in the pipeline, but I'll do a version for that in the near future. In fact on a PC, you wouldn't even need the Raspberry Pi, it would instead use something like an ESP32 to drive the LEDs since the PC would be doing the "heavy lifting"... less money, easier to set up...
For the HDMI Video Capture device, I understand that it only puts out 1080P to the USB connection, which should be fine for Hyperion, but will it pass-thru the full HDMI signal to the TV? I want to make sure I don't get any loss in video quality or sound using this device - Dolby Vision, HDR10, Dolby Surround, DTS, etc.
It literally passes through exactly what you put into it. So your TV gets the full 4K HDR and or Dolby vision etc. Essentially it's just a device that sort of peaks at the data as it's going to the television, if that makes sense. On my streaming box, it actually recognizes the brand and model of TV, it doesn't even know it's connected to any kind of capture device. That's why it's able to work even with protected content like Netflix etc 😉
@@JustinNelsonsProjects Thanks Justin, that is exactly what I needed to know. I am planning to implement this exact solution, but adding a controller running WLED. The Raspberry Pi (Hyperion) will then just communicate wirelessly with WLED over WiFi to send the signal. I think this might need two power supplies, but I am wondering if there is a way I can take your adaptor cable and modify it to run power to the Pi from the Dig-Uno controller. What do you think? I'm assuming I could the the end that goes to the strip, cut off the adapter, remove the data wire and connect that to the controller (5v). Then on the other end, cut the data wire and just plug it into the Pi. Alternatively, could I buy a custom one from you without the connector on the 5v end and without the two data wires each side?
@@Matt_UKTX if you watch my older video, that is where I in fact used an esp32 microcontroller. And though that is run on a Windows pc, it would work equally as well on the raspberry pi, and it would get its power via the USB cable. I would not try this with an Arduino or anything that has the ch01 chip that limits to 115,200 baud... The UART on the esp32 can easily be configured to 8 times that speed. So my living room system in particular actually does use a Windows PC and an esp32... You can of course use WLED, though in my case I of course had to over-complicate everything and I wrote my own software using fast led... Along with a web server on the ESP and a CSS/JavaScript interface that I can tweak settings with my phone. But it's very specific to my particular setup ... My bedroom TV on the other hand, the one shown in this video, was done intentionally as simplistic as possible. And keep in mind you will still need a level shifter to get good performance driving the LEDs from an ESP chip which also runs at 3.3v... This reply got long really fast lol, but I will be offering other options of my inline level shifter, that would simplify connecting to an ESP chip or a breadboard. At the moment I've only made up the ones with a 5-pin Dupont connector specifically for the pi... I'm actually curious as to why you would want to go with a separate controller, when the Raspberry pi itself has suitable GPIO, and you literally only need one of those...
@@JustinNelsonsProjects I may have a gap in my understanding, but my main reason for adding the additional controller is simply because I want to use WLED to control the lights. If there is a way to do this all on the Raspberry Pi, I'd love to know about it.
@@JustinNelsonsProjects I had another thought on this... For power to the Raspberry Pi, could I not just take a Micro USB cable, cut off one end, wire it to the controller (5v) and plug the other end into the micro USB port on the Pi? Would that work for what I am trying to accomplish? Looking at other builds online it seems like 5v power via USB is fine for the Pi.
Hi there, i've been trying to follow your vid, nice work btw!, but is there any way you could send the cable to the netherlands? When trying to order i only can let it ship to US. I'd love to use it because when I now try and hook it up, the Pi4 reports it is undervolted.
I don't know what the postage would be, let me calculate that and I'll get back to you in the morning. In fact email me directly at Justin@JustinNelsonsProjects.com with your address, and I can calculate what the postage would be. As far as the undervolt situation, read the website. I address that issue, which is it non-issue. It's only showing low on the 5 volt side which is perfectly acceptable because internally the Raspberry pi actually runs on 3.3 volts with an internal regulator. The only place it passes 5 volts directly is the USB ports, and the capture device also happens to internally drop that down to 3.3 volts. I wish I had explained that part in the video, but it is on the web tutorial.
Actually I might just change (lower) the price, and instead of offering free shipping to the US, just have the buyer pay shipping, and then I can allow international shipping. Shopify isn't super flexible, so it's kind of one or the other, but you're not the first person who has asked about shipping outside of the US... I'll have an update in the morning once I look a little further into it.
Okay so I have done just that! I've lowered the price, and now the buyer pays shipping, and International shipping is now available! Note that I'm only offering USPS for the time being; DHL might be a better choice, however the nearest DHL drop-off is a bit of a drive for me... I might arrange for pickup but that might cost more, I'm really not sure (never done International shipping before). There is a UPS drop-off very near my house... I might add that as an option.
@@JustinNelsonsProjects as you probably have seen I've ordered the level shifter. I'm still experimenting with the HyperHDR box. Looking forward to your new findings. It works great for my HomeOffice TV, but when connected to my 75" downstairs i'm running into all sorts of issues. Hopefully I will have some time soon to experiment more. Huge thanks for all your efforts!
Been watching this excellent video and have the parts ready to install. I wanted to check out your website but it's being flagged as compromised. Is it safe??
I'm not sure what browser you might be using, but from my end (Chrome) I show the SSL certificate is valid, and is 100% safe, end-to-end encryption. The Store directs you to Shopify, which is itself very reputable and secure. Note that my personal website collects zero information (other than a couple of cookies, which I clearly identify upon your first visit)... Let me know what browser you're using, and what the error/warning says specifically. It has certainly not been compromised in any way, I control the webserver it runs on...
Thanks for the reply Justin. I too am using Chrome but it is malwarebytes that is flagging it as "compromised". I can reach your store without any issues. I wanted specifically to check out the install to the Pi sd card. Boots up and I log in but Putty is giving me the connection refused error. I queried the ssh status and it reported as disabled so I enabled it using "sudo systemctl enable ssh". It now reports as enabled but still getting connection refused error. I'll set up an exclusion in malwarebytes and see if I can gain access to your site. Good work by the way. 👍
@@JustinNelsonsProjects Managed to get into your site and my error became obvious. I failed to click the services tab when customising the OS to configure ssh. In the process of redoing it as I speak. 🤣
@@chookey999 a kind of sounds like Malwarebytes itself is preventing you from logging into what it considers an unknown device, aka the Raspberry pi... I'm not personally familiar with Malwarebytes but I have heard stories where it's just extremely restrictive, which can be very good in a lot of situations, but it can also be a hindrance when you're trying to do DIY projects the it may or may not recognize as legitimate... I don't know if you can just temporarily disable Malwarebytes while you accomplish this project... But do let us know in the comments in case anyone else runs into a similar issue. And thank you for engaging with the video and I appreciate the kind words 😁
@@chookey999 I apologize, I was replying to comments in order, so you can kind of ignore most of what I said on the previous reply now that I realize you figured it out. But I'll leave that reply up anyway, in case anyone runs into a similar type of issue. Once again, thanks for the engagement on the video, every little bit helps 👍
Sorry if I missed this, but I don't see a recommendation anywhere for the barrel connector for the power adapter. There are a lot of them on Amazon, but many have bad/scary reviews showing extremely sketchy internals, etc. Anyone know of a high quality one that can handle the power here? Some reviews on Amazon show them only handling 3A before melting. Yikes.
I now see that in your video (at about 13:50) you say the power supply comes with the properly-rated barrel connector, but the link in the description is to a different power supply that does NOT come with a barrel connector. The BTF Lighting power supply does come with a barrel connector.
@@sklampton The one I originally linked to has changed apparently :( The one I bought, from that same link, did come with the Barrel adaptor... here's one that might work (have NOT tested it, and I'm a little skeptical on the $13 price): amzn.to/4cdpjI4 I'll try to find a genuine BTF-lighting PSU that comes with the adaptor... BTF doesn't seem to actually MAKE these adaptors, they just link to third-party products that are suitable, hence the change of product on the URL I originally posted... Meanwhile I will update the description, maybe just add in a properly-rated barrel adaptor separately (only, generally, you have to buy those in at least a 5-pack)...
@@JustinNelsonsProjects thanks! Yeah the barrel connectors seem to be fully commoditized, hard to tell the difference. Some do list ratings of 5A, but I’ve had little luck finding any rated any higher than that.
@@sklampton I found this, it's $8 USD, but it's 10-pairs (male/female). However they are rated to handle 12-amps: amzn.to/3wPgRi8 Hope that helps... I've updated the video description and will update the website as well shortly. Thanks for bringing this to my attention! PS - I *might* add an individual barrel connector to my "hyperion bundle" Adaptor Cable kit, just to avoid everyone having to buy 20 of something which they only need ONE of... PPS: Even though this is a "no-solder" project... one *could* cut the end of the PSU and solder the wires (inner-wire is POSITIVE) to the Red/White wires on the LED strip... or even use a WAGO connector... just ideas
Replying to my own self here, but I've gone ahead and ordered a bunch of these 12-amp rated ones and will just add one to each "Hyperion Bundle" adaptor / level-shifter kit. Everything in that kit is included for the same reason -- so the viewer doesn't have to purchase all those items in BULK when they only need one or two of each item. I will do an actual amperage test on these before I decide if the listing is true to its word...
In my experience, with the TV set on "Cinema" mode (or similar), the TV itself adds a slight delay, and it tends to sync up rather nicely with the very slight delay of the capture processing. I haven't noticed any difference between the screen and the LEDs at all... The footage I show in the video is ACTUAL footage of this running using the exact procedure I demonstrated. Nothing was faked or altered to sync the LEDs with the screen.
I guess it's a matter of opinion. I just choose not to do a bottom row. However, I will begin offering the Hyperion Kit (for my level-shiting cable) with three L-adaptors, for those who do wish to do a bottom row :)
Leaving this comment here for people with built in android tv, you can use hyperion android grabber and send the screen data to the raspberry pi so you wont need a capture card and all this stuff, sadly the app is quite old so it may not work for everybody (chromecast with google tv also sadly) this also enables you to run hyperionng on your smarthome server (like home assistant as an add on) and send the light data to any combination of lights (i really like wled strips) so this is a really cool usecase! Now the reason im leaving this comment is because the app is old and i want to find somebody with more android app coding knowledge than me to implement the possible fix ive found for newer android versions, if you know somebody that could help please leave a comment
I just want to let you guys know, I am currently working on an updated version of this video including some things I've learned, including the Dolby Vision issue and even 5.1 surround sound.
The level shifter adapter cable is back in stock and I plan to keep it that way. Despite a nerve injury in my wrist, I have kind of relearned how to solder and everything is back in full swing at this point.
The next update video will basically break down what specific Raspberry Pi boards work, how easily they are to configure, and other updates to the website and just things I've learned since this video went up.
Rather than just an update video, I'm just going to create a full video without the history lesson about ambilight etc.
Make sure you're subscribed and look forward to it within the next week or two.
And for those of you who have already built this project, thank you so much for your support. Those of you still on the fence, I think the next video might just push you to say let's do this 😅
Awesome, I just found this project and an working my way through the video through WLED subreddit.
@justinNelsonsProjects hi Justin I have all the uquipment ras pi 3b with hyperion 2.0 installed..... I have 224 leds ws2812b around my tv.... however I don't have a 5v 10amp plug I do have a 5v 60amp power unit supply could I wire it upto that instead or would that just blow everything tvs off the wall all ready to wire everything up but I don't know if I can use that power unit
This is the ONLY TV BACKLIGHT VIDEO for 2024. Thank you so much.
Thank you so much for your kind words, it really makes my efforts worthwhile.
I'm actually planning this weekend a slightly updated version, to address a few things about Dolby Atmos and Dolby vision, and the fact that this whole system works really well on a Raspberry pi zero which is super inexpensive compare it to a pi 4b...
And I've got a few more updates. I'm really hoping to film it today and hopefully release it tomorrow because I want to wear my Irish Saint Patrick's Day gear LOL.
But the kind words, those are the kind of things that make me want to keep doing this. So I thank you so much 🍻 I really wish you the best, and once again just hearing that makes me feel like I'm doing what I should be doing .
Thanks a ton for this video. I was looking to make the switch from regular Hyperion to HyperHDR. I didn't know that there was a 4K USB capture cards since I built my Ambilight 4 years ago and once I got it tweaked to my liking I really didn't do anything else to it. I got a new TV last year so I thought it would be the right time to upgrade the whole thing now. Glad I won't have to spend time tracking down and reading resources. It's amazing how much this project has matured over the years and has so much support now.
Greetings from Turkey. I tried doing it last year but I couldn't succeed. I'll try again by watching your video. I’ve watched a lot of videos on this topic, but I’ve never seen one as detailed and explanatory as this. Yours is the best so far. You’ve really put in a lot of effort. It’s a great video ❤
Beyond everything, first we must appriciate him for delivering such high quality content at this age, and fact he is still delivering it, Thank you so much Justin for the Video, it Really Helps :)
@@kushalsingh.6383 but I do have to say, 49 might sound "old" to you, but my main demographic is between 25 and 44, with a good portion above that (45-54)...
And many of the RUclips channels that I personally watch, are run by guys older than myself...
See back in our day, you actually had to learn how to do electronic things on your own or from a book or a magazine 😎
@@JustinNelsonsProjects keep up the good work sir, i'm proud of you!! Hope you'll gain millions and billions of views on this channel
Dude, you have a sweet voice. Also that documentation is the best there is for Hyperion. Thanks!!
I'll give this a try. If it works, you've got a new subscriber. Keep it up!
Fantastic video thank you very much !
I'm trying to watch HDR content with a setup similar to this one, but I can't, Dobly Vision works like a charm but both HDR movies and Games don't get pick up by the capture card (I bought 3 models 2 with MS2109 chip an the other with MS2130, none of those work) and I really want to see my games an HDR movies, do you know of a capture card that can show the HDR function?
I am doing a super deep dive on hdr, Dolby vision, Dolby Atmos and even CEC control. So keep an eye on this channel, once I figure some stuff out I will put together a comprehensive video on how to make each of those things work and hopefully find a product that will make all of those things work..
Just started out as a simple LED project lol, but has really turned into figuring out the specifications and what devices support those and I'm down a very deep rabbit hole right now. Trust me, once I figure all this stuff out, I will put a video together and if you're subscribed you'll get notified when I resolve all this fun stuff
Hey man, great video. I accidentally bought the 3-pin LED, that's why I came across your video because others only use the 4-pin LED. Which port is the data cable (the green one) plugged into on the RP4? If I saw it correctly, pin 6 on the right side from the top?!?!? The green should be the data cable for the LED? Thank you very much for your help
It is in fact the sixth pin down on the right-hand side when the Pi is oriented with the 40-pin header to your right. This is shown clearly on the website BTW... a basic block diagram.
Specifically that pin represents GPIO18.
However, if you connect the strip's data wire directly to the Pi, you do run a risk of having flickering issues, and possible damage to the Pi itself... it's strongly recommended that you use some kind of level-shifter, as the LEDs expect 5-volt logic, and the Pi is at 3.3-volts...
I do sell an adaptor cable, though my stock is low again, I'll be assembling more in the coming days.
It *can* work without the level shifter, but it's highly not recommended, even by the maintainers of the HyperHDR project itself...
@@JustinNelsonsProjectsThanks for the info. I hadn't read that far and it was the first time I heard about the level converter. The supply line to the red/white LEDs are connected directly to the 5V power supply, so why are they built into the adapter cable? Thanks for your help
@@berndfronapfel69 the reason I designed that adapter cable is twofold. Number one it incorporates the level shifter going from the pi to the LED strip. And number two, the power supply running the LED strip in turn Powers the raspberry pi.
This eliminates the need for an extra wall outlet, aka the USB power adapter.
I recommend watching the video all the way through, and checking out the website that I linked to, JustinNelsonsprojects.com/hyperion
I explained in pretty good detail the reason for the level shifter, and the convenience of having the power supplied by the LED power supply rather than a separate wall outlet...
@@JustinNelsonsProjects Hi Mann, thank you very much for your work. I gave up on installing the Ambilight. I did everything according to the instructions, but every now and again it doesn't work at one point. It's probably because I grew up with DOS 40 years ago and then Windows came along. I think Linux is the biggest bullshit for private users, sorry. Entries in terminals were made 40 years ago, just one character wrong and you start all over again, what a fuck. I thought I could just do something with the RP4... nope, all bullshit. Sorry, I threw €250 out the window. I wish you all the best. Thanks man
@@berndfronapfel69 I'm sorry you're having such trouble with linux. I did try to make my website as user-friendly as possible, you literally click copy and then click paste in the terminal so there's no room for typos..
I also grew up in the 80s with MS-DOS, and of course later Windows 3.1 and on up through Windows 10. Personally I enjoy the command line and doing things with Linux that you simply can't do on a Windows box or even with DOS...
But I also run web servers, which requires that I log in remotely and I wouldn't do it on anything but Linux. But it's all a matter of personal preference....
Awaiting the restock of the cable, Ty.
I'm hoping for tomorrow or over the weekend... I literally have to sit down and assemble these things, and my day job has been keeping me busy...
Thanks for your patience. I'm going to just crank out as many as I can in one sitting likely tomorrow (Friday) and as soon as I have any stock, I'll update the store.
New stock available! I've made a few, and more will come, it's first-come first-served...
9ac025-3.myshopify.com/products/raspberry-pi-4-ws2812b-adaptor-cable
@@JustinNelsonsProjects Thank you, ordered 2.
@@SenseiPradeje I will get those out first thing in the morning! Thank you so much for your purchase, make sure to comment how your project goes 😀
@@JustinNelsonsProjects thank you, I will def keep you posted.
UPDATE (April 5, 2024): I've updated the website to reflect the new 20.0.0.0 release of HyperHDR.
If you want to UPGRADE from 19 to 20, FIRST BACK UP YOUR CONFIGURATION. In the web config, click the Menu, select General, and tap EXPORT and save the config file (you can do this with your phone or PC).
Then, follow the instructions in this section of the tutorial:
justinnelsonsprojects.com/hyperion/step4.php#installing
Once you get to the "Configuration" heading, STOP. Once the Pi reboots, go back into HyperHDR web config, go to Menu -> General, and click IMPORT. Select the file you just saved from your 19 configuration, and everything should "just work" :) I just did this myself on the Pi Zero 2 W.
---
March 3 Update:
DOLBY VISION CONFIRMED WORKING! Using this splitter, with the EDID switch set to "COPY 1", the TV connected to "HDMI OUT 1" and a capture device on "HDMI OUT 2", it successfully passes Dolby Vision out to the televisioni!!
* amzn.to/3utBa43
With that, you can then use a simple capture device (since you've already split the signal), and I recommend this one:
* amzn.to/48iRXog
That one accepts 4k or 1080p, and works quite well under Linux (aka the Pi)...
Also, update video coming soon, as I'm learning about other Pi models that may/should work with HyperHDR... so be sure you're subscribed!
Limited quantities of the Level-Shifter/Adaptor Cable are back in stock as well...
Jan. 31, 2024 UPDATE: International Shipping is now available! Rather than free shipping, I lowered the price so US orders will come out about the same, and now you can buy from just about any country!
* 9ac025-3.myshopify.com/products/raspberry-pi-4-ws2812b-adaptor-cable
Feb. 7, 2024 UPDATE: I've added a page to the tutorial for those who's television cannot be detected directly, to turn the LEDs on and off using your Phone:
* justinnelsonsprojects.com/hyperion/turnitoff.php
---
At long last, after MONTHS of shooting, reshooting and editing...The Ambilight 2.0 Update video is done! 😎
Pro Tip: RUclips doesn't always show the video in full 4k even on a 4k TV. Find the "gear" icon, and select "Quality", then choose "2160p" to experience the true beauty of 4k...
A couple of things I didn't mention in the video: First, you do NOT have to start the strip on the left-hand side of the TV. Pick whichever side is most accessible to you when the TV is in its final position. Simply click "Reverse" in the HyperHDR config later on if you use the right-hand side (left if you're looking at the back of the TV).
Also in this case, the "L" adaptors might not line up the PLUS and MINUS -- this is irrelevant really. As long as PLUS is on the same side of the bracket on both ends, it'll work just fine. Not really sure why they even specify it like that...
If I think of anything else I left out, or if you think of something, let me know and I'll update this pinned comment.
Hello Justin. Decided to upgrade to 20 FROM 19 and again couldn't get into your website. Last time it was down to malwarebytes but this time I had to go through my vpn for some reason. Anyway I followed your excellent tutorial again and came across an omission.
In the "Install HyperHDR" section you show how to get the OS updates but have left out the command to install them, "sudo apt-get upgrade". 😉
Great work though!!
Thanks!
Hi Justin! Nice video ! Did you find the way to make it work with Dolby Vision? I try the Ezcoo downscaler but I still have the wrong color only when listen to Dolby vision movie. Thanks for your work!👍🏼
I am still working on a solution for that. I only own one TV that even does Dolby vision, and that's in my complicated living room setup with a splitter, a switch box so I can use multiple inputs, and all of that also goes to a whole house distribution box LOL....
Like I said, my living room is a little overly complicated...
I will do an update video once I come up with a solution that works.
I just need one quick clarification to make sure I'm understanding. Are the colors wrong on the leds, or are the colors wrong on the television? Because that's two entirely different issues, and I really need to know which to investigate...
If the color is wrong on the tv, obviously the splitter or downscaler is stripping information from the video signal.
If the colors are wrong on the leds, that would be a totally different issue that can be fixed within HyperHDR.
So you're clarification would help, you're not the first person to say the colors were messed up but it occurred to me that I don't know which colors you guys are referring to.
Obviously if it's on the TV itself that's a major issue and I will spend however much time and money it takes to find a solution.
Unfortunately it boils down to whether or not the splitter or capture device has licensed the Dolby technology. I mean even back in the day, if you had a cassette player with Dolby noise reduction, that had to be licensed. And unfortunately these cheap Chinese products that we all have grown to love, don't necessarily have proper licensing, and sometimes the description can be misleading...
So I am going to spend the next few days or weeks and I will find a product that will do the video splitting without stripping out the Dolby encoding...
The only downside I see, is I fear that I will find a product that does exactly what we want it to do, but cost way more due to the fact that they are actually paying Dolby for the license...
And by the way if any of you guys following this thread want to support my efforts, a small super thanks on the video or even a RUclips membership, can help me purchase, evaluate, and find the exact combination that works with Dolby vision, Dolby atmos, hdr10 and the rest...
Only do so if you can afford it and if it's something you wish to do. I don't do these videos for the money, I do them because I really enjoy making them. But any help from the community is always appreciated 😀
The colors on my TV are perfect. The problem is definitely in leds/application/equipment. When I use any other source (SDR, HD, FHD, UHD, HDR, HDR10) everything works. But when it's Dolby Vision, all the colors are wrong (it results in pink/purple on ). I have the impression that the equipment supports 10 bits for HDR but when you drop to 12 bits for DV, it's too many colors. 3 possible causes: 1: my video grabber which does not support DV (I ordered another one but I don't believe that is the solution), 2: raspberry PI which does not support DV, 3: The application that doesn't support DV (BTW, Hyperion doesn't work either). Maybe the license like you mentionned also..
Here's a link from someone else with the same dilemma. See the April 18 post from "The" which explains the differences with the downscaler Ezcoo (with Hyperion):
hyperion-project.org/forum/index.php?thread/11876-when-viewing-using-dolby-vision-the-usb-grabber-outputs-the-video-weird-with-sha/
Thanks for you help!
@@JustinNelsonsProjects
In case you missed the pinned comment, I have confirmed that Dolby Vision passes through from Netflix on my Streaming Box, through this splitter:
* amzn.to/3utBa43
Using this splitter, with the EDID switch set to "COPY 1", the TV connected to "HDMI OUT 1" and a capture device on "HDMI OUT 2", it successfully passes Dolby Vision out to the televisioni!!
Then instead of a "pass-thru" capture device, you can use this inexpensive one that works really well:
* amzn.to/48iRXog
I have also confirmed that my 4-in, 2-out HDMI switcher ALSO passes Dolby Vision content:
* amzn.to/49UdioZ
Nice when you want to use multiple inputs with the Hyperion, at full 4k HDR/Dolby Vision all in-tact.
Hopefully this resolves the Dolby Vision issues entirely.
Update video coming soon...
Hey man, I'm coming in from another, older tutorial on youtube but I'm thinking of returning everything I bought and trying your method out because this other creator/their discord aren't willing to help troubleshoot.
Basically I'm dealing with a few problems: One, my TV is a Hisense U8K, which is a Dolby Vision IQ system, which doesn't play nicely with the Capture Card. So having to disable HDR to use ambient lighting is a bummer. Do you happen to know if your system is compatible with Dolby Vision?
Second, I'm using a Raspberry Pi Zero W. I'm having problems with my sound cutting out, and there's very little information I can find regarding this problem. I am wondering if it is possibly a power issue? Or something else. I raise this issue to you because if it's not a power issue, I'm concerned about it happening even with a Pi 5
Anyway your video is very informative and you clearly take a lot of time in helping your community out, mad respect and thanks for the great video. Keep it up!
I had such a long reply typed up, and I hit the ESC button on my keyboard 😒 But I'll try to recall what I had typed.
Firstly, yes it gets a little tricky with Dolby Vision, as "technically" a pass-thru/splitter/capture device would need to be licensing that tech from Dolby, even just to pass it through or split the signal...
In my overly-complicated Living Room setup (not the one in the video), I actually use this:
* amzn.to/4bN9lV8
It's a 4-in, 2-out HDMI switcher, with the ability to downscale output B to 1080, while copying the EDID exactly from output A (so the input device selected, just thinks it's connected to the television directly).
This also allows me to use my XBox and Wii consoles with Hyperion, as well as my streaming box 😎
Now, as for the Pi Zero, I have no experience with those... but if you are saying the audio is cutting out on the TV (but not the video?) -- I suppose it *could* be a power issue. Perhaps a beefier PSU would help. Honestly I'm not sure exactly how you would have that connected to the capture device (OTG cable?) -- I'd need a bit more info on that to give you any kind of solid answer there...
Let me know if any of this helps. Looking at the price, I might just pick up a Pi Zero W to experiment with, and maybe add that to the website and/or video description if it ends up being a viable alternative...
Thanks for the kind words, I do make a point to respond to my viewers as quickly as I can -- and yes, a lot of effort went into this video. In fact I shot it at least 5 times, each time, finding something to make the project just a tiny amount easier, then re-shooting lol... I really wanted to get this one right (I'm a little OCD / perfectionist lol)...
I just looked at a different Pi Zero W kit on Amazon and I do see that one Micro-USB is in fact an OTG (so it can be used as a "host" with Type-A devices)... I think I'm going to order that $35 kit and see if it could work with my Hyperion setup...
The one I'm looking at is this:
* amzn.to/3T7qFwR
I just ordered a Pi Zero W kit w/case, and I'll be experimenting with that for the Hyperion project. One thing you might try -- I don't know if you are powering the Pi Zero W via my adaptor cable (or via the GPIO *header* (edited for clarity!) directly in some other way), or via the USB power supply.
If you are using the 2.5 amp PSU, and letting that *also* power the LED strip, that's simply not enough power... again more info would help me determine the best options for you to get everything set up correctly. Feel free to reach out via email if you don't want to continue this in the Comments section -- Justin@JustinNelsonsProjects.com -- but doing so here may help others as well... totally up to you
Hey again my dude! Funny that, I just checked the thread and you commented a minute ago. Glad to continue the discussion here for posterity's sake lmao
Basically I'm following Everything Smart Home's guide. ruclips.net/video/J26oYlKyq7Q/видео.html (linked to when the wiring starts)
tl;dw, pi zero is powered via microUSB from a 5v 10a barrel jack PSU, with the LED strips hooked up to the same PSU using the same barrel jack connector (positive and negative wires as appropriate.) The pi turns on just fine, the lights all work beautifully. The data microUSB port on the pi zero is connected/powering solely the capture card.
In terms of why I suspect it might be a power issue, it's just what I get when poking around the net. I'm only speculating, and it truly could be any number of things. Totally possible I have a bad capture card unit, for example, or any number of user errors along the way. That said, everything else seems to be working adequately. How much power would a capture card need? What is the throughput from the zero W data mUSB? I should look into this on my end, too, and see what I drum up. If it's helpful, I'll take some pictures of my setup and send them to your email, and we can keep the discussion going here. But, I truly do have it set up practically exactly like in the video. It's a sleek setup and the zero W is really conveniently priced, with wifi-enabled ssh, it's a sleek setup if I can get it working.
Though if I can't get it working with HDR/Dolby Vision, I may have to figure something else out entirely.. hmm
Anyway thanks again brother, you're doing great work and I appreciate your help so much.
@@avromostlund5166 I honestly don't think the pi is the problem here, because if you're using the capture device I recommended, it is quite literally passing the signal straight through to the television and just sort of sniffing it if you will, for the pi and Hyperion to gather the information it needs.
So if you're getting audio glitches, it might just be a defective capture device. Or it could be an out of spec USB or HDMI cable. I hesitate to blame the pi for the issue... Because what is being passed on to the television is literally being passed straight through, it's not being processed by the Raspberry pi computer at all at that point.
I will know for sure tomorrow when my pi zero w arrives, I'm literally just going to stick an SD card in there with the OS and just see what it does on my own television. It could very well be a good candidate for this project which I would very much be happy with, because that could reduce the for others wanting to build a similar setup. It's literally like a third of the price of a pi 4 with a case and a fan and all that..
I'm honestly thinking it might be the capture device itself... But again, I won't know for sure until I get my hands on the pi zero which is literally tomorrow but I do have to work tomorrow so I might not get to actually play with it till Thursday or friday. But I appreciate you approving of continuing this conversation in a public forum where others May learn, and I can't thank you enough for watching my video and engaging in the comments. It means a lot to me, truly.
Hi Nelson, great tutorial! I have installed everything following your blog tutorial. I have all connected but i pluggin gpio18 from rpi 3model b (6th pin from top left) to the green cable of the led strip. the rpi is powered by a micro usb with a 5v 3.3A supplier and the led strip with another supplier of 5v 10A. Also teh 4k 60hz is with all hdmi and usb connected... The only led that is on is the first and in red, the rest are off. I tried to test some effects but no result, only first led in red... do you know what Im doing wrong? the data cable from rpi to led strip is directly and i see that you have a circuit in-between, does it necessary i have been reading other tutorials and they say that is not strucitly necessary. What do you think? thanks in advance.
Firstly, make sure you have HyperHDR configured properly; usually if only ONE LED is lit, that indicates that you missed this step:
justinnelsonsprojects.com/hyperion/step5.php
Also, make sure you ALSO have a ground connection between the Pi and the LED strip -- otherwise it won't receive data at all.
Finally, though you can get away without a level-shifter, it is mostly not recommended. Firstly, if you accidentally short one of the bare copper + pads to the data pad... that could send 5 volts to a 3.3v GPIO, thus most likely damaging the Pi.
Second reason, is that at only 3.3v logic level into a 5-volt strip, interference can cause flickering and other odd behavior on the LEDs. At 3.3v, the "turn-on" state of the LED chip is *just* barely above the threshold. This can vary from one strip to the next but I wouldn't rely on it personally...
Best of luck, I hope some of this helps!
@@JustinNelsonsProjects thanks, Nelson tomorrow i will give It a try
@@JustinNelsonsProjects Hi again Nelson, about led supply, I am supplying it with 5v 10A, not 3.3v. And pi with 5v 3.3A, not 3.3v, so i think if i configure ok the steps you mention i shouldnt have problems with led strip. The Led strip is a 60 leds per meter (5 meters =300 leds) type ws2812b, i have some of them working with ESP32, WLED and supplying them with 5v 8A without any problem.
Now im working, but this afternoon ai try to fix it. Thank you so much!
@@LuisPeris one aspect that I think you're confusing, is the fact that even though you supply the Raspberry Pi with 5 volts, internally it converts it to 3.3 for its logic. So when you pull a gpio pin high, it is at 3.3 volt logic, not the 5 volts that the LED strip expects.
That is where the differentiation comes in. I'm working on a video currently comparing different LED strips and actually controlling the logic level voltage, to show the minimum voltage that each strip considers to be "high"... In that video, I filmed a simple breadboard circuit with a potentiometer and a fluke meter to demonstrate at what voltage the LED strips stops responding to signals reliably.
It is a common misconception because you do in fact power the pie with 5 volts, but the only reason for that is because it has to power USB ports. The actual Pi computer does in fact run at 3.3
I don't think my gpio pin is active. I'm not getting anymore 3 led,s to light up. Went through the video several times. Any advice
Great work men, thanks so much. 👍
Thank you so much, you don't know how much it means when people support my work!
Oddly enough I was just finishing an update video just as you made this donation, be sure to check it out!
Thanks again for your support!
@@JustinNelsonsProjectshi Justin, I watched countless videos and visited countless websites, but only with your instructions did I get the Ambilight to work. At that time I wanted to send you a donation, but when there was no answer to my question, I didn't donate anything to you.
The ambilight hasn't worked since yesterday and I got error messages that I didn't understand. Then I went to your website and saw that you had new instructions online. After these instructions my ambilight worked again. I think there was an update that caused the error. When my Ambilight started working again with your instructions, that was the immediate reason to send you a donation. It's not a pizza recipe that tastes good or not, it's also about parts like the cables, the HDMI splitter, the HDMI converter, the LED strips, so it's about money. I'm happy to give something in return to someone who helps me succeed. I would like to thank you from the bottom of my heart for your help, greetings from good old Germany
@@JustinNelsonsProjectsMaybe I saw your video before you published it??? lol 😅
@@berndfronapfel69 Maybe it has something to do with the time difference (you paid in Euros so I assume you're a few hours ahead of me, I'm at GMT-6)? LMFAO 😜
(Lame time travel joke)
@@JustinNelsonsProjectsahh I'm the first time traveler. I see you in the future. have a good time 😉
Im trying to find parts so that I can set this up behind my monitor. But I get more confused after every video I watch. Some people do this with Arduino & raspberry pi. Some people do it without the logic level shifter and so on. You seem to be the only person knowing what’s going on. What setup should I go with and what parts do I need? Thanks, great video bdw
I'm actually working on a follow-up video that involves doing this to a PC monitor rather than a television. And the steps are a lot simpler for that use case.
Keep an eye on this channel in the next week or so, I'm working on a different project at the moment but my next video after that will be a PC monitor version.
The short version though, is that if you're running it on a pc, you do not need a Raspberry pi or capture device. Hyperion/HyperHDR can run on the PC directly itself and just use a screen grab. The only thing you need beyond that is some kind of microcontroller, and for a smaller monitor you might could get away with an Arduino nano. If the monitor is larger you'll need an ESP chip that can keep up with the data rate of more LEDs... And since ESP chips run at 3.3 volts, a level shifter is highly recommended...
Again a video targeting specifically doing this for your PC is coming very soon so make sure you subscribed or at least check in on the channel every now and then...
@@JustinNelsonsProjects thx, subscribed now. Looking forward for the new video
Hey i got a question. I have already Home assistant on my Raspberry Pi. Can I still do the project with the same ras or do I need to buy another one?
I replied to your comment on the other video but I'll reiterate here, as long as there are enough resources available, Linux is excellent at multitasking so you shouldn't have any issue running home assistant and hyper hdr on the same pi.
But if it ends up being glitchy or just not working, it might be worth simply picking up a Raspberry Pi zero 2 W... That's what I use on my bedroom TV and it works perfectly. Just make sure the number two is in there, the original Pi zero is 32-bit and has a very hard time keeping up with the LEDs.
@@JustinNelsonsProjects Thank you very much for your reply it really helped me so far. Another one I was asking myself was, if I should put my Wled light installations on the Pi Zero (where HyperHDR is on) or on the one with Homeassistant. I am still unsure if homeassistant takes more power or the light stuff and how to allocate the tasks to the right „computer“. Or maybe its even worth it to go for another ras 3 or 4?
@@jangobeast7251 Firstly, this project (as I do in my video) does NOT use WLED at all. A dedicated Raspberry Pi Zero, following the installation instructions on my website, along with my level shifter / adaptor cable, is all you need.
Your Home Assistant Pi can (and should) be a completely separate computer...
You might want to re-watch the video, along with the update video I link at the end... to get a better understanding that this is a stand-alone project, requiring NO extra microcontroller (ESP etc) and NO WLED... hope this helps
Would a receiver that has all sources plugged into it and then the single HDMI to the TV work?
In theory if the receiver is 4K capable and all that, there should be no problem with that. I use a 4-in, two out HDMI switch box so that I can use different sources.
If the receiver only has one HDMI output, you would still need to split that signal with a splitter, so that you can capture to the Raspberry pi as well.
Thank you so much for the in-depth dive! I finally got all the parts and am trying to follow step by step, but am having a hard time finding out which components might be testable. I’m not getting any response from the lights other than the initial first led light-up. Is there some way we can test which of the components might be causing it? Live video works on my hyperhdr site, so the switch and capture card must be working.
Make sure you go through all the steps on the website, if you don't tell hyper HDR how many LEDs are on each side, that's exactly what it will do, light up one LED .
Let me know if that helps, but that is the most common reason why only one LED lights up
@@JustinNelsonsProjects that was part of it. It also helped me notice I did a really dumb mistake. I connected the adapter flipped (data on the 5v pin)… importance of following instructions. Thank you so much!
@@IScrappycocoI I didn't want to give this a thumbs down because mistakes are mistakes... But I'm glad you got it sorted out and it did not fry your Raspberry Pi because that could easily happen in that situation.
If I had a color laser printer, the instruction sheet would probably make it a slight bit more obvious. Instead I just typed the word red and, skip this pin.
But I'm happy to hear that your Raspberry Pi survived, let us know if you get the whole setup running correctly and looking nice. And thanks so much for your support!
Hi Nelson, finally I have made it work. I have bought an 4k capture card that is supposed to passthrough 4k HDR but the HDR videos not playing HDR, do I miss something? I have enabled HDR global but still not working. Thanks in advance
Is the HDR problem the lights outputting a different color or that the output of the Capture Card is not showing as HDR?
@@LuisPerez-st6bt the HDR is showing different colors, i have test all RGB sorting options but no one match the colors, what I am missing?
Hi,
Thanks for your video. I just want to know how f we can add ceiling light to hyperhdr. If yes can you we a video please.
Thanks
@@mashood9571 that's actually a feature I've been experimenting with in my own living room. I have a white strip of LEDs on the wall behind my couch. They light up according to the overall brightness of the screen.
So if suddenly there's a flash of lightning or an explosion on the screen, the whole room kind of lights up a little bit...
I've been meaning to put a project together and make a video on that, it does involve a little more including an esp32 in order to control the extra 12 volt lights. But it is a pretty immersive experience...
When I have some time maybe I will sit down and walk through it. It's not for the faint of heart, it does involve some soldering and using mosfet transistors etc but, I will try to make it as easy as possible...
@@JustinNelsonsProjects Thanks for the update. Keep it up you are doing a freat job
Great video . if i make only wled project it is possible to run it directly from my pc using hyper hdr? Also about sacrifitial led i need only to use black tape ? possible i need to add code also...
You most certainly can, but as I recommended to another commenter, make sure you run WLED on an ESP32 or something with a fast-enough UART. The ones on most Arduino's max out at 115,200 baud -- not generally fast enough to do 30 frames per second on any sizeable TV screen... in fact that math is presented in my older video.
However, one thing I regret even putting in that first video, is the whole "sacrificial LED" thing.
That is one mistake in my older video; I didn't have a good of an understanding of these LED strips... the "sacrificial LED" really is a total hack that should never be used. It's unreliable trying to use that first LED as a "level shifter"...
There are a couple methods that work a little better, but you have to insert a diode to drop the 5v down to ~4.3, only on that FIRST LED, so that it'll more readily accept the 3.3v logic. So little stepping stones from 3.3 -> 4.3 -> 5... but again, it's just as "hacky" as it sounds, and I wish I could edit just that one part out of the previous video (I'm going to add a pinned comment on that video addressing this)...
Does this setup capture protected content e.g. from Netflix or Prime produce light accordingly? Can this setup be changed to use a windows home server to somehow capture the TV output instead of a Pi?
Realistically, with any pass-through capture card, you could very easily capture 4K video from just about any external video source such as a streaming box.
But you would not need a Raspberry pi to accomplish this, all you would really need is OBS Studio which is open source...
The trick with those passed through capture devices is that the streaming source itself only sees the television. So any DRM preventing capture doesn't even know it's being captured. Not that I condone such use of course 😉
For the purposes of the ambilight, I use mine all the time with netflix, hulu, Amazon prime etc.
Sorry, using my phone I had missed the second part of your question. In fact, yes, you can use a Windows PC (that's how my Living room TV is set up) but you'll need an ESP32 (or similar) to actually drive the LEDs. See my previous video for details: ruclips.net/video/ZjOl7Bn6Ec0/видео.html
Is it important to use a Raspberry Pi 4b for this specific setup? I have a Raspberry Pi 3b and was wondering if that is an okay substitute
I do not have first-hand experience with any other Pi versions, however at least one viewer mentioned having success with the Pi 3b -- so it's entirely possible. For the record, I believe the Pi 5 is also fully (mostly?) backward-compatible.
But I can only speak specifically about the 4 model B as that's the only unit I've had personal experience with.
EDIT: Thanks to another commenter, I ordered myself a Pi Zero W, and am going to find out if even that might be suitable for this project. I'll for sure update the video description AND website as I find more Pi models confirmed to work with my particular variation of this project!
I have a setup very similar to this one and working with a RPi3b. It is possible.
@@bbkingneo thank you for clarifying that. I'm actually going to test on a pi zero w sometime this weekend, I'm not sure if it has the horsepower but it might. If it does, I will totally update the website and of course I'm going to throw a video update along with a few other Dolby Vision related updates I'm working on.
Looking at the CPU usage on the pi 4, I don't think Hyperion really uses that many CPU cycles overall...
In fact I got tired of hearing the little fan and I just disconnected it. Never overheats and never throttles, so that's saying something...
Damn what a bummer, watched the full video just to find out the Custom Adapter only ships in the US and no guide on how to DIY.
Are you referring to his "home-designed level shifter/jumper wires" harness thingy? If so, there are many videos and articles online about using Hyperion and how to set it up/wire it out there. That said, I personally do not use a level shifter or level shifting controller on ANY of my ~5 or 6 LED strip setups around the house, including on my bedroom TV Hyperion Ambilight, and I've had none of the issues associated with an under-voltage data signal. The RGB LED strip master, QuinLED, states that a voltage level shifter is unnecessary if the data wire between your LED controller and light strips are less than ~1 meter long. In other words, you don't really need that component.
You will simply need to either do a little very basic soldering, or buy a few "wago lever nuts" to splice wires together, and a few "female to male breadboard jumper wires" or "female to female breadboard jumper wires," (Google the parts in quotes), all that really matters is that the jumper wires have a female connector on at least one side, you will be cutting the connector off of one side, stripping back the wire insulation a little bit, and inserting it into the Lego lever nut wire splicing thingies. Basically, the female breadboard wires are how you connect to the Raspberry Pi pins, and you just need a way to connect that to the wire pigtail that comes on the end of basically every RGB LED strip you can buy. They usually come with a connector with loose wires. You can also connect the power supply wires, the power input wires of the Pi, and the LED strip power wires all together in the same Wago lever nut things together. All the positive wires can go into one lever nut (even if it's only a 2 port lever nut, just twist any two of them together and put them in one port) and same with negative/ground wires.
Or to be even fancier and have a faster and more responsive setup, buy an ESP32 dev board and solder the wires on yourself (Google WLED tutorial if you still need help with where to connect the wires) or buy a QuinLED Dig-Uno, an ESP32 LED controller board with WLED pre-installed that also has a built in voltage level shifter on the data output pins, and has screw down wire terminals so you'll need to do zero soldering. It's pretty easy to wirelessly connect the WLED instance to your HyperHDR instance. Again, quite a few "Hyperion with WLED" tutorials online if you Google it.
Sorry if I only confused things more, I had no idea what your level of electronics knowledge is so trying to be detailed 😅 good luck, it's not too hard. The hard part is getting a capture card/TV streaming box/HDMI splitter (if necessary)/AV receiver/TV that all play nice together as far as HDR/Dolby surround/4k/HDCP copyright protection blah blah blah... I'm on month 2 of trying to get my setup working properly with CEC control between my TV, Chromecast and surround speakers, 4k HDR @60Hz passthrough etc etc... I FINALLY just today got the hardware part working and this video helped a lot with setting up HyperHDR :)
And btw, if you don't care about HDR, regular Hyperion.ng works amazingly well. I only want HyperHDR because it runs faster.
The short, simple version is: if you can afford it and want simple setup, Google "QuinLED Dig-Uno" and buy one, it will save you some headache. Unless you have and know how to use a soldering iron or have a friend who does, in which case, just solder the wires yourself :) Google Hyperion Ambilight tutorial and you'll find more info
The other replies on this thread are valid to a point. You often can get away without a level shifter, it really depends on what batch of LED strip you ended up with, but for proper usage it is recommended to have a high impedance input level shifter with a low impedance output...
My goal in creating the device was to just make it a simple plug and Play for those not willing to solder or crimp their own connectors together. It is certainly not 100% required especially if you do have some level of electronics knowledge. I just wanted to make a device that simplifies the process for those lacking electronic skills.
In order to ship outside the US unfortunately it's a limitation with my Shopify account, I am looking into ways to ship outside the us. Technically I could put the product on eBay and let eBay handle the overseas shipping, though eBay takes a pretty large percent and my margins are very thin on the device as it is... It is definitely something I'm trying to address because I do know that I have an audience outside the US...
@@outbakjak
Hey, thank you for that lenghty reply.
I really went in on that Hyperion stuff with reading guides and so on. Because it's not just cheaper then the plug and play systems - it also looks better imo
What i came up with now is this setup:
- My Pi4B Running HyperHDR
- HDMI USB Capture Card
- WS2812B 5m 60/m Led Strip
- 5V 10A 50W Power Supply
- HDMI Splitter with HDR HDCP 2.2 (i saw a video where he used a fancy Splitter that did the HDR to SDR Tone-Mapping on board but with HyperHDR i don't need that because it has software sided Tone-Mapping right?)
- DC Barrel Jack Adapter
- 3 Jumper Wires M to F
This is the shopping list from a single tutorial so i'd hope that's all i need - but he used Hyperbrian instead of HyperHDR so i don't know if these to are so easily exchangeable with the exact same hardware.
I was looking for a solderless solution - i have soldered before but i'm really fumble-fingered when it comes to these small things
I also got some L Connectors but i'm not sure if i'll use them maybe you can help me with that after setting up multiple LED Systems.
I saw multiple sites using that L-Fold which seems to not put to much strain on the Strip.
So i have 4 questions at the moment.
- Am i missing something hardwarewise?
- Whats your opinion on corners? Do you solder, bend, fold, pinch, L-Connector or whatever many others options there are
- I have a 65 Inch TV with reducting 5cm of the edge i would use about 420cms of LED Strip which would come to about 250 Leds. I've read that i may need to inject another power source into the system or should i just tune it down in HyperHDR to not go 100%
- adding to that on the tutorial he writes this about the 3 Jumper Wires: "The red wire is the power wire which I attach to the 5V power of the Pi. If you are using a larger power supply than the 4 Amps I have here I would power the Raspberry Pi instead via the official USB-C power supply and not connect this red wire. The Green wire is the signal wire which I attached to GPIO 18 Pin on the Raspberry Pi. The White wire is the ground of the GPIO Pin which I attach to a ground pin of the Raspberry Pi."
With the Pi and the Led Strip on different Power Supplies i would only connect the GPIO 18 and ground wire right?
EDIT: I didn't bother with WLED for now because i'm not sure about the latency despite most people seeming to have no problem at all.
But i'll definetly getting into that. I'm a software developer and really didn't know about any of this like 4 days ago.. WLED seems really awesome but i don't think i'll bother using it behind my tv
EDIT 2: sumbitch..
„Do not use Raspberry Pi to directly control neopixel LEDs such as ws2812b or sk6812. Use an external ESP32 or ESP8266 module for this purpose, preferably communicating and powered directly from Rpi…
If you ignore point 4, we remind you that direct driving ws2812b / sk6812 from Raspberry Pi is NOT officially supported (due to many potential and hard to diagnose problems) and you are then on your own.“ - HyperHDR GitHub
I've just added International Shipping to my Shopify store:
9ac025-3.myshopify.com/products/raspberry-pi-4-ws2812b-adaptor-cable
I also noticed you didn't splice power to the other end
This is intentional to keep the project as simple as possible. You most certainly could inject power to the other end of the strip, OR even tap it in the middle somewhere to keep the current level more even throughout the entire strip... but my goal here was to make a solder-free version, for people who don't wish to solder or invest in crimping tools, etc...
Also note that in the video (or maybe in the online tutorial...) somewhere, I mention that it's best to NOT have the brightness of the LEDs cranked. Mostly because, if the LEDs are brighter than the actual TV, they are no longer "ambient" ;) Less is more... and by not fully cranking the LEDs, there's really no need for extra power injection, unless you're working on a VERY large TV...
I bought my first Ambilight TV last year after wanting one for years. I had no idea it wasn't Philips making them 😕
Great video i got to all setup it all up using a raspberry pi 3+ just can't get the auto turn off and on with tv I followed your tutorial but unfortunately didn't work for me any more suggestions? My tv is a LGWebostv thanks
Unfortunately I don't own any LG TVs... but if you can find a way, in its own settings, to turn off the WiFi when powered off (might be under an Eco setting, Power settings, or even the network settings) then the "ping" method should work...
Other than that, you can just log into your Pi using the ip address and :8090, click the menu, then click "Remote Control", scroll down and toggle "LED Device" to On and Off... you can easily create a shortcut to that page on your phone...
I will update the website with this additional tip, with screenshots, as I realize some TVs simply won't be able to do any kind of auto-detection of its power status... especially if it's not even a Smart TV...
EDIT: I've added the page to the tutorial:
* justinnelsonsprojects.com/hyperion/turnitoff.php
Okay, so after some reading, I *might* be able to add LG support directly; for now, though, you SHOULD be able to use the "ping" method. To quote from what I literally just added to the web tutorial:
On some LG TVs, you'll need to go to the Settings menu, then General and then Mobile TV On and set that to OFF -- this ensures that the WiFi in fact shuts down when the TV is powered off.
Let me know if this helps...
Thanks for all your help but unfortunately it still didn't work also cant log on to hyperhdr on my phone or any other device just keeps saying no authorization. i can still log on using my desktop computer so not sure what's happening there but thanks again for your suggestion
@@stevebaker9691 Make sure your phone is on the same WiFi network as the Raspberry Pi... and make sure the URL (IP address : port, 8090) is correct... There's no reason you shouldn't be able to pull it up on your phone, in fact that's exactly how HyperHDR was designed...
Let me know if any of this helps, and again thanks for watching!
@@JustinNelsonsProjects yeah check and doubled check all that is correct. think am just going to fitting a switch to the led circuit to switch them off and on
How come you don't use an esp8266? I thought this setup required an esp8266? Much more simple set up then other ones I looked at.
An 8266 still uses 3.3v logic. You still *should* use a level shifter... my method incorporates the level shifter while protecting the Pi from any accidental backfeed of 5v to the GPIO pins (think, accidentally crossing the 5v pad with the "data" pad on the LED strip for example)...
@@JustinNelsonsProjects so, the 8266 isn’t actually required?
I tried to set this up on my tv quite a while ago. I would set it up and it would work for a couple days and then it would just stop, and never work again, or one led would dimmly light before it stopped working. I couldn’t figure out what the problem was and got very frustrated. I kind of blamed it on the power supply / wiring that’s to small.
I have a good proper power supply now and some good gauge wire and I want to try this again, and I thank god I came across your tutorial here because it seems straight forward and to the point. All of the other tutorials I’ve found incorporated the level shifter and the 8266. That is a lot of extra wiring and stuff that could possibly cause issues. The fact that your tutorial doesn’t use the 8266 is awesome because that means there is less wiring and less things to cause problems.
Can you put together a version for a pc monitor?
Absolutely! I realize I have mostly focused on TVs but yes, HyperHDR can run on Windows / Mac as well as Linux... this could easily enough be applied to a PC monitor 🙂 I have other projects in the pipeline, but I'll do a version for that in the near future.
In fact on a PC, you wouldn't even need the Raspberry Pi, it would instead use something like an ESP32 to drive the LEDs since the PC would be doing the "heavy lifting"... less money, easier to set up...
For the HDMI Video Capture device, I understand that it only puts out 1080P to the USB connection, which should be fine for Hyperion, but will it pass-thru the full HDMI signal to the TV? I want to make sure I don't get any loss in video quality or sound using this device - Dolby Vision, HDR10, Dolby Surround, DTS, etc.
It literally passes through exactly what you put into it. So your TV gets the full 4K HDR and or Dolby vision etc. Essentially it's just a device that sort of peaks at the data as it's going to the television, if that makes sense.
On my streaming box, it actually recognizes the brand and model of TV, it doesn't even know it's connected to any kind of capture device. That's why it's able to work even with protected content like Netflix etc 😉
@@JustinNelsonsProjects Thanks Justin, that is exactly what I needed to know. I am planning to implement this exact solution, but adding a controller running WLED. The Raspberry Pi (Hyperion) will then just communicate wirelessly with WLED over WiFi to send the signal. I think this might need two power supplies, but I am wondering if there is a way I can take your adaptor cable and modify it to run power to the Pi from the Dig-Uno controller. What do you think? I'm assuming I could the the end that goes to the strip, cut off the adapter, remove the data wire and connect that to the controller (5v). Then on the other end, cut the data wire and just plug it into the Pi. Alternatively, could I buy a custom one from you without the connector on the 5v end and without the two data wires each side?
@@Matt_UKTX if you watch my older video, that is where I in fact used an esp32 microcontroller. And though that is run on a Windows pc, it would work equally as well on the raspberry pi, and it would get its power via the USB cable.
I would not try this with an Arduino or anything that has the ch01 chip that limits to 115,200 baud... The UART on the esp32 can easily be configured to 8 times that speed.
So my living room system in particular actually does use a Windows PC and an esp32... You can of course use WLED, though in my case I of course had to over-complicate everything and I wrote my own software using fast led... Along with a web server on the ESP and a CSS/JavaScript interface that I can tweak settings with my phone. But it's very specific to my particular setup ...
My bedroom TV on the other hand, the one shown in this video, was done intentionally as simplistic as possible. And keep in mind you will still need a level shifter to get good performance driving the LEDs from an ESP chip which also runs at 3.3v...
This reply got long really fast lol, but I will be offering other options of my inline level shifter, that would simplify connecting to an ESP chip or a breadboard. At the moment I've only made up the ones with a 5-pin Dupont connector specifically for the pi...
I'm actually curious as to why you would want to go with a separate controller, when the Raspberry pi itself has suitable GPIO, and you literally only need one of those...
@@JustinNelsonsProjects I may have a gap in my understanding, but my main reason for adding the additional controller is simply because I want to use WLED to control the lights. If there is a way to do this all on the Raspberry Pi, I'd love to know about it.
@@JustinNelsonsProjects I had another thought on this... For power to the Raspberry Pi, could I not just take a Micro USB cable, cut off one end, wire it to the controller (5v) and plug the other end into the micro USB port on the Pi? Would that work for what I am trying to accomplish? Looking at other builds online it seems like 5v power via USB is fine for the Pi.
Hi there, i've been trying to follow your vid, nice work btw!, but is there any way you could send the cable to the netherlands? When trying to order i only can let it ship to US. I'd love to use it because when I now try and hook it up, the Pi4 reports it is undervolted.
I don't know what the postage would be, let me calculate that and I'll get back to you in the morning. In fact email me directly at Justin@JustinNelsonsProjects.com with your address, and I can calculate what the postage would be.
As far as the undervolt situation, read the website. I address that issue, which is it non-issue. It's only showing low on the 5 volt side which is perfectly acceptable because internally the Raspberry pi actually runs on 3.3 volts with an internal regulator. The only place it passes 5 volts directly is the USB ports, and the capture device also happens to internally drop that down to 3.3 volts.
I wish I had explained that part in the video, but it is on the web tutorial.
Actually I might just change (lower) the price, and instead of offering free shipping to the US, just have the buyer pay shipping, and then I can allow international shipping.
Shopify isn't super flexible, so it's kind of one or the other, but you're not the first person who has asked about shipping outside of the US...
I'll have an update in the morning once I look a little further into it.
I've just send you an email. @@JustinNelsonsProjects
Okay so I have done just that! I've lowered the price, and now the buyer pays shipping, and International shipping is now available!
Note that I'm only offering USPS for the time being; DHL might be a better choice, however the nearest DHL drop-off is a bit of a drive for me... I might arrange for pickup but that might cost more, I'm really not sure (never done International shipping before).
There is a UPS drop-off very near my house... I might add that as an option.
@@JustinNelsonsProjects as you probably have seen I've ordered the level shifter. I'm still experimenting with the HyperHDR box. Looking forward to your new findings. It works great for my HomeOffice TV, but when connected to my 75" downstairs i'm running into all sorts of issues. Hopefully I will have some time soon to experiment more. Huge thanks for all your efforts!
Been watching this excellent video and have the parts ready to install. I wanted to check out your website but it's being flagged as compromised. Is it safe??
I'm not sure what browser you might be using, but from my end (Chrome) I show the SSL certificate is valid, and is 100% safe, end-to-end encryption.
The Store directs you to Shopify, which is itself very reputable and secure. Note that my personal website collects zero information (other than a couple of cookies, which I clearly identify upon your first visit)...
Let me know what browser you're using, and what the error/warning says specifically. It has certainly not been compromised in any way, I control the webserver it runs on...
Thanks for the reply Justin. I too am using Chrome but it is malwarebytes that is flagging it as "compromised". I can reach your store without any issues. I wanted specifically to check out the install to the Pi sd card. Boots up and I log in but Putty is giving me the connection refused error. I queried the ssh status and it reported as disabled so I enabled it using "sudo systemctl enable ssh". It now reports as enabled but still getting connection refused error.
I'll set up an exclusion in malwarebytes and see if I can gain access to your site.
Good work by the way. 👍
@@JustinNelsonsProjects Managed to get into your site and my error became obvious. I failed to click the services tab when customising the OS to configure ssh. In the process of redoing it as I speak. 🤣
@@chookey999 a kind of sounds like Malwarebytes itself is preventing you from logging into what it considers an unknown device, aka the Raspberry pi...
I'm not personally familiar with Malwarebytes but I have heard stories where it's just extremely restrictive, which can be very good in a lot of situations, but it can also be a hindrance when you're trying to do DIY projects the it may or may not recognize as legitimate...
I don't know if you can just temporarily disable Malwarebytes while you accomplish this project... But do let us know in the comments in case anyone else runs into a similar issue.
And thank you for engaging with the video and I appreciate the kind words 😁
@@chookey999 I apologize, I was replying to comments in order, so you can kind of ignore most of what I said on the previous reply now that I realize you figured it out. But I'll leave that reply up anyway, in case anyone runs into a similar type of issue.
Once again, thanks for the engagement on the video, every little bit helps 👍
Sorry if I missed this, but I don't see a recommendation anywhere for the barrel connector for the power adapter. There are a lot of them on Amazon, but many have bad/scary reviews showing extremely sketchy internals, etc. Anyone know of a high quality one that can handle the power here? Some reviews on Amazon show them only handling 3A before melting. Yikes.
I now see that in your video (at about 13:50) you say the power supply comes with the properly-rated barrel connector, but the link in the description is to a different power supply that does NOT come with a barrel connector. The BTF Lighting power supply does come with a barrel connector.
@@sklampton The one I originally linked to has changed apparently :( The one I bought, from that same link, did come with the Barrel adaptor... here's one that might work (have NOT tested it, and I'm a little skeptical on the $13 price): amzn.to/4cdpjI4
I'll try to find a genuine BTF-lighting PSU that comes with the adaptor... BTF doesn't seem to actually MAKE these adaptors, they just link to third-party products that are suitable, hence the change of product on the URL I originally posted...
Meanwhile I will update the description, maybe just add in a properly-rated barrel adaptor separately (only, generally, you have to buy those in at least a 5-pack)...
@@JustinNelsonsProjects thanks! Yeah the barrel connectors seem to be fully commoditized, hard to tell the difference. Some do list ratings of 5A, but I’ve had little luck finding any rated any higher than that.
@@sklampton I found this, it's $8 USD, but it's 10-pairs (male/female). However they are rated to handle 12-amps: amzn.to/3wPgRi8
Hope that helps... I've updated the video description and will update the website as well shortly.
Thanks for bringing this to my attention!
PS - I *might* add an individual barrel connector to my "hyperion bundle" Adaptor Cable kit, just to avoid everyone having to buy 20 of something which they only need ONE of...
PPS: Even though this is a "no-solder" project... one *could* cut the end of the PSU and solder the wires (inner-wire is POSITIVE) to the Red/White wires on the LED strip... or even use a WAGO connector... just ideas
Replying to my own self here, but I've gone ahead and ordered a bunch of these 12-amp rated ones and will just add one to each "Hyperion Bundle" adaptor / level-shifter kit. Everything in that kit is included for the same reason -- so the viewer doesn't have to purchase all those items in BULK when they only need one or two of each item. I will do an actual amperage test on these before I decide if the listing is true to its word...
The problem I've encountered with various forms of this sort of project, the capture cards have significant enough lag to be noticeable.
In my experience, with the TV set on "Cinema" mode (or similar), the TV itself adds a slight delay, and it tends to sync up rather nicely with the very slight delay of the capture processing. I haven't noticed any difference between the screen and the LEDs at all...
The footage I show in the video is ACTUAL footage of this running using the exact procedure I demonstrated. Nothing was faked or altered to sync the LEDs with the screen.
hyperhdr is showing no signal and i cant figure out why
it flashes all colours when i reboot it but cant get the signal from tv and capture card
@@grinnermatt Double-check the Video Capture settings, make sure it is seeing the USB capture and that it is enabled...
Bottom row is nice
I guess it's a matter of opinion. I just choose not to do a bottom row. However, I will begin offering the Hyperion Kit (for my level-shiting cable) with three L-adaptors, for those who do wish to do a bottom row :)
Leaving this comment here for people with built in android tv, you can use hyperion android grabber and send the screen data to the raspberry pi so you wont need a capture card and all this stuff, sadly the app is quite old so it may not work for everybody (chromecast with google tv also sadly) this also enables you to run hyperionng on your smarthome server (like home assistant as an add on) and send the light data to any combination of lights (i really like wled strips) so this is a really cool usecase! Now the reason im leaving this comment is because the app is old and i want to find somebody with more android app coding knowledge than me to implement the possible fix ive found for newer android versions, if you know somebody that could help please leave a comment