I guess its luck to be honest, different manufacturing plants, maybe slightly different materials. I have a pretty much prestine NOS F XT from 07/84 and the foam pretty much turned to dust.
I bought the Unicomp Classic 101 March 2021 and now September 2023. Used a few times and was put into storage. Recently rediscovered and noticed "P" key was acting erratic requiring two or three taps to make contact. Contacted Unicomp and was given RMA but would cost $48.00 plus $16 shipping. After doing my own disassembly I found all but 6 plastic rivet heads were broken off. Unicomp claims this issue was resolved before I purchased in 2021. I would not advise purchasing from Unicomp based on my experience.
Sanding off the upper case texture ruined it for me. If there were unsightly heavy gouges and scratches, the best way would have been to fill it with very thin strips of PVC glued over them and then sanding then sanding them flush. You can then sand the entire case evenly and bead blast it to the original or similar sandy texture.
Yeah, tell me. For me, as I used a XT way back in the day ( along with Apple IIcs and IIes ) any color but beige is heresy. I could understand, and let slide, the USB conversion but, really, you painted it gray of all colors? It should have been beige.
Agreed, he didn't so much "save" this keyboard, but ruined it by changing its colours. The USB conversion was necessary, but the colour change was not. Not was sanding the texturing off.
@@GMMilambar Right, why I could ignore the usb conversation, it was necessary. But it's pure heresy to recolor it. It probably only needed to be sanded down through finer grits until the scratches, dents, and dings were mostly removed. Though those do add character and leave a little hidden story that'll leave the user wondering about it's history. :D
Yes, the original color should also be restored. It is better to polish it than painting with a different color. USB conversion is a great upgrade but repainting with different color turn it off. I stop watching after the painting mess.
Please list the hardware required for the controller mod. Is the PCB a Blue Pill, some flavor of Teensy, or what? Where do you get the little female-to-female USB connector you use? That little plastic shroud looks custom - did you 3D print it? If so, where is the recipe?
Wanna restore an IBM 3278 keyboard which preceeds this keyboard by 5 years and weighs twice as much? The model F types are actually sometimes refered to as cost reduced versions of beamspring keyboards.
@@LSD97123 Im pretty sure that this isnt the case because these caps are made of a non UV yellowing material (pbt) and therefore cant be retrobrighted also you can see from their other videos that when they retr0brite they put it under a UV lamp to help increase the speed of the retrobright, which he doesnt in this one
The keycaps used on the model F have a coarse texture that can "trap" small particles of dust and other grime on it. The hydrogen peroxide is meant to dislodge that seeded in grime from the coarse plastic.
I love this channel. But what he did to this keyboard is an outrage. Sanding the plastic and painting it was crazy. Above is not even the original color. Adapting to USB is also a disaster. As it is not original, it is not a "restoration" but an adaptation. And quite low quality.
Great. But I didn't like the new keyboard color. It doesn't suit her at all. It was just necessary to update the native color.
i love the paintjob tbh. grey suites these well, as proven by IBM's industrial keyboards.
I think that may win loudest keyboard. I definitely prefer the much quieter "thunk" of the IBM Model M keyboard that you previously restored.
How the hell did that foam hold up so well...?
I guess its luck to be honest, different manufacturing plants, maybe slightly different materials.
I have a pretty much prestine NOS F XT from 07/84 and the foam pretty much turned to dust.
I bought the Unicomp Classic 101 March 2021 and now September 2023. Used a few times and was put into storage. Recently rediscovered and noticed "P" key was acting erratic requiring two or three taps to make contact. Contacted Unicomp and was given RMA but would cost $48.00 plus $16 shipping. After doing my own disassembly I found all but 6 plastic rivet heads were broken off. Unicomp claims this issue was resolved before I purchased in 2021. I would not advise purchasing from Unicomp based on my experience.
Sanding off the upper case texture ruined it for me. If there were unsightly heavy gouges and scratches, the best way would have been to fill it with very thin strips of PVC glued over them and then sanding then sanding them flush. You can then sand the entire case evenly and bead blast it to the original or similar sandy texture.
I’m restoring two of these myself right now lol
Genuine anxiety thinking you wasn’t going to add that ‘G’ key!
Same. After all that work only to not add the G!
Fortunaly he was able to take care of that g spot in the end.
What a beauty!!!
wow classic mechanical i love it
built like a tank
If you had to paint the parts, why not paint them the original color?
Yeah, tell me. For me, as I used a XT way back in the day ( along with Apple IIcs and IIes ) any color but beige is heresy. I could understand, and let slide, the USB conversion but, really, you painted it gray of all colors? It should have been beige.
Agreed, he didn't so much "save" this keyboard, but ruined it by changing its colours. The USB conversion was necessary, but the colour change was not. Not was sanding the texturing off.
@@GMMilambar Right, why I could ignore the usb conversation, it was necessary. But it's pure heresy to recolor it. It probably only needed to be sanded down through finer grits until the scratches, dents, and dings were mostly removed. Though those do add character and leave a little hidden story that'll leave the user wondering about it's history. :D
Yes, the original color should also be restored. It is better to polish it than painting with a different color. USB conversion is a great upgrade but repainting with different color turn it off. I stop watching after the painting mess.
lol sensitive weirdos
Goog job 👌
Eline sağlık
oof watching him remove the spacebar before its stabiliser made me wince
Please list the hardware required for the controller mod. Is the PCB a Blue Pill, some flavor of Teensy, or what? Where do you get the little female-to-female USB connector you use? That little plastic shroud looks custom - did you 3D print it? If so, where is the recipe?
It said in the video the microcontroller was a pro micro. Everything else i cant help with, sry
sensational
Fantástica restauração. Só não curti essa cor cinza. Se tivesse pintado de RAL 9002 ou 9003 iria ficar bem melhor.
Could you tell where to buy de converter to usb? I loved your work but I dont know so much of electronic as you. Thanks in advance!
Does anyone know if he used the orginal cable for the converter or somehow found one of those pin headers?
there are pins on the board or you can get a female version of the end of the cable and do it there
@@samueldsouza8797 where do I get it though because I couldn't find my my cable one time and resorted to trying to find online to no avail
definitely the original cable but if you still want to do this and don't have your original cable then you can just use jumper cables
Good working
How did you slide the board back in so easily at 13:11???
Exactly! Mine won't go in like that
3m rubber used for the feet link?
Hey do you do repairs on these? I've got the exact same guy in a lot nicer condition, but my S key just went out
cho e hỏi chai tẩy dạng hạt đấy tên là gì ạ
Where can you find the original ibm keycaps??
Unicomp or donor keyboards. Ms and Fs use the same keycaps usually.
👍
Wanna restore an IBM 3278 keyboard which preceeds this keyboard by 5 years and weighs twice as much? The model F types are actually sometimes refered to as cost reduced versions of beamspring keyboards.
I've restored and converted a couple of these now. They are a pleasure to work on compared to Ms and Fs.
How much have you paid for it?
what is this powder you put into the water for the keys?
Hydrogen peroxide. The process is called retrobrighting.
@@LSD97123 Im pretty sure that this isnt the case because these caps are made of a non UV yellowing material (pbt) and therefore cant be retrobrighted
also you can see from their other videos that when they retr0brite they put it under a UV lamp to help increase the speed of the retrobright, which he doesnt in this one
@@NautsuJJR then what is going on here?
The keycaps used on the model F have a coarse texture that can "trap" small particles of dust and other grime on it.
The hydrogen peroxide is meant to dislodge that seeded in grime from the coarse plastic.
@@LSD97123 defo not retrobright. I have one of these and is still a bright white
Good except shitty paintwork
No new foam? Great job otherwise.
us b
Really???? Grey Paint????
Also sanding down the texture?????
Cool. And on my channel, I posted a video with the restoration of the Logitech G35 headset. Anyone interested can see.
外国人嫌你把颜色喷错了
I love this channel. But what he did to this keyboard is an outrage. Sanding the plastic and painting it was crazy. Above is not even the original color. Adapting to USB is also a disaster. As it is not original, it is not a "restoration" but an adaptation. And quite low quality.
Bruh, why the hell would he not convert it to USB. Ridiculous thing to complain about.
Case is metal, not plastic.
@@gravitationalslipstream Ok. Metal. All other things are true anyway.
You must insert a real XT cable, not this new USB... It's not authentic
They 'must' do what they want, not what you say ...