I installed 4 threaded inserts into my floor, 4 3/8 bolts hold my wheel lock to the floor and they are flush with the floor when it’s removed. Fact is it’s hard to even see them when not in use. Very quick, easy and wheel lock is very compact without the added angle iron. Nice job and creative thought in your design.
So far we are pretty satisfied with it and glad it is the RV we chose to purchase. It is a little tight to move around inside with the bike loaded but everything was accessible during travel. more videos to come! 5:8 thumbs up! and thanks for watching!
What a great video. I had to do pretty much the same thing in my toyhauler. I would probably still be scratching my head on how to lock it down if I had seen your video. So thanks for sharing it.
Thank you for really great and informative video. I’m new to this RV lifestyle and love my VStar 950 . We just recently purchased our own little toy hauler and I’m discovering this new world of RV living.
Hope it was helpful. This is our first RV too and I am hoping to help others as I have learned much from the videos that I have watched. So far we have 4,600 miles hauling the bike with this system and no problems other than the straps in the back rubbed a little on the saddlebag and left a mark. Had to pad and reposition them. Have fun with the new RV and safe travels!
Great idea, nice job putting everything together. I just purchased a grey wolf 22RR and I'm going to use your design with my condor wheel chock. I appreciate the excellent video instruction.
Yeah, I am kind of old school, and I just want to help people have fun and travel safely. Plus I don't have any fancy equipment, just an old digital camera. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video! Thanks for taking the time to share. I did watch a video that had straps that would automatically sinch tighter if slack produced going over a bump. Pretty cool!
Great video - I don't know why the trailer manufactures don't put a beaver tail in the floor to allow a more gradual ramp where nothing drags while loading. I've been looking at the same trailer that your using. My other dig would be how you have to remove the cable to the tail gate to lower the ramp.
Since you are dedicating these straps as your bike tie-downs, you can cut off some of the excess, especially in the front where the least amount of your strap is actually in use. Be sure to melt the end with a flame to prevent the strap’s raw end from unraveling.
Yes the bike did drag just a little going in as it only has about 4" of ground clearance. The higher you jack up the front of the trailer the flatter the angle of the ramp reducing drag. I always have the truck hooked up to the trailer for safety and stability when loading. I basically stood up to take my weight off the bike and helped it in at the top. Thanks for asking and I hope this helps
Thank you for that. I am using an enclosed cargo trailer and the ramp angle is very manageable. Not sure I would enjoy loading and especially unloading a motorcycle from that height.
i travel a few times a year with my Road Glide in my toy hauler and just strap to the tie downs in the floor.. never a problem. just seems like a lot of work.
One of the reasons I used the wheel chock is because the front of the bike was not centered between the tie downs in the floor. It had to be off to one side so I could access the fridge, bathroom and kitchen in the RV without unloading the bike. A Second reason is because I hauled the bike 4,600 miles in the RV and wanted to make sure there wasn't going to be any problems. Every bike/RV combination is different and this is what I came up with for my particular situation and thought some of the ideas might help someone else looking for solutions. The initial set up of the chock took a little time to get right but now it only takes about 5 minutes to put it in place using a ratchet and 9/16 end wrench, it is actually pretty easy it you don't disassemble it all the way. What type of toy hauler are you using for your Road Glide? I am curious as to the layout of the tiedowns in the floor. thanks for watching
@@HarleyGurl114 yes for years. You don't need that.. if it gives you piece of mind then use one.. I have never used one my front tire has never even turned while tied down.
I really appreciate you taking the time to share this, its ingenious. I've been looking at these 18RR Toy Haulers and mounting the wheel choke was a major concern I have a H-D touring bike and was wondering if the back end will fit. Do you have the measurement from the front of the wheel chock to the door Thank You
From where the front of the tire seats in the chock to the back is about 8'2" +/-. My bike is about 7'11" to the back of the luggage rack so it is pretty close but there is a few inches of gap between the ramp with the hand rails folded up. I think that you could put the chock to the front of the hooks in the floor instead of behind, basically put the angle on the back side of the cross tube and gain about 2 more inches. let me know how it works out for you! hope this helps and good luck with your project, thanks for watching
Great video. I've been going to the different videos pointing out that the wheel well is not load bearing... Very important. That means you lose 11" of width.
Thanks for this. The 18RR is #1 on my list and your work putting this together is perfect. My scoot is a bit lighter but just as bulky with a wide handlebar and 'adventure' bags. Accessing the trailer amenities while loaded is a top priority since we often stop at the local grocery on the way in to the park. Having a bike block access to everything just would not do. By the way, is that a Canyon you are using to haul the rig? How does that work out for you? My plans were to use my newer 2019 Ford Ranger. The loading plan just needs to be careful. Does the Canyon tow it well?
Yes it is a 2020 Canyon V6 with factory tow package. I installed a brake controller for the trailer. A ranger with factory tow package and turbo 4 cyl is rated for about 700 lbs more than the Canyon so I would think it would do the job. If memory serves me correctly, when properly equipped the Ranger is rated for 7,700 lbs but you have to watch the GCWR so the towing capacity can be less depending how the truck is loaded. We take our time towing when fully loaded with bike, water and supplies try to keep it between 60-65 mph. update video coming soon
I am not sure why they off set the front hooks. It is likely because of the layout of the floor plan and they wanted them as far apart as possible for stability when tying down. I think it is big enough inside to load two smaller bikes end to end using the front hooks but you might not be able to get into the bathroom with the trailer loaded. For now I only have the one bike so I haven't tried it. Have more vids to come soon. Thanks for watching!
Great idea....I just purchased a B&W Biker bar simple sturdy mounting and easy removal,it would be great in a toy hauler like you have. I am looking to upgrade from a 6x12 cargo (toy hauler/camping) trailer a Grey wolf 18 RR or similar .
That looks like a really good system, looked it up and it is the first time I have seen one. For me, the only draw back would be placement in the toy hauler without putting anchors directly into the floor. I am not sure if I could get the bike where I want it using the factory tie downs. Will definitely keep it in mind for hauling on my utility trailer.
I would like to see a video of how you unload the motorcycle and what you do at that moment when your feet don't touch the ground while halfway off the ramp. We had a 19RR for a couple of years. The deck height is high and the ramp is very steep - like you my feet an not reach to the ground when the front wheel starts up the ramp and the back wheel is on the pavement. While loading that is not a huge issue - but while unloading it is a very serious issue. I had to build a ramp extension that was 6' long and had legs at the front that elevated and would support the trailer ramp about 14" above the pavement. This allowed me to load and unload the motorcycle with my feet touching the ramp the entire time. It was the only way I could load/unload my 600 pound motorcycle safely. The ramp supports folded up and the ramp was stored flat against the back wall (ramp) when we were traveling. This ramp extension added about 10 minutes of time to set up while loading/unloading and it worked - but it was a bit tedious. We now have an RV and haul the motorcycle in an enclosed trailer with a floor height of 16" and it is far easier to load/unload the motorcycle.
First thing is to make sure that you are straight and well balanced. Then when you get to the point that it is difficult to reach the ground DON'T STOP for that two or three feet until you get solid footing again; you only have to balance for a second or two. (if you stop in the middle where you cannot touch it can get really difficult really quick) Also my wife is there when loading and unloading and she is often a great help just helping to steady the bike if needed by standing to the side and holding on to the luggage rack . It is a blessing to have a good helper.
You need to raise the front of the trailer as high as you can this lessons the pitch a great deal. I’m only 5’6” and didn’t have an issue when I jack the front up. Put the front and back stabilizer down so your trailer doesn’t move.
Thanks for posting a loading video. Not many out there are showing this. I'm curious what the maximum dimensions of a side by side would be for this hauler. We haven't bought either yet because it's a chicken and the egg situation where you need a toy that fits in your toy hauler and you need a toy hauler that fits your toy. When we decide on 1 it limits our choices on the other so we're doing our due diligence :)
My advice would be to get the dimensions of a few potential side by sides and compare them to the floor plans of different RVs; most of this can be found online at manufactures web sites. After putting a good size cruiser in our 18 RR there is not a lot of room left. The floor plan has the kitchen equipment/cabinets etc. down one side to allow it to be small with better options than other small toy haulers. It seems to be designed for motorcycles and narrow items. There are a lot of great options out there for toy haulers, you really have to decide what you really want and then decide if it is worth the cost. We looked at a lot of smaller units and after purchasing the 18 RR we are glad we didn't try to skimp and go with a smaller trailer; it is worth a little more to get what you want rather than be unhappy with your purchase. Hope this helps
@@ensrvtipsntravels9595 Thanks! They all seem to be designed for motorcycles. The funny thing is the 18RR has more side by side room than the 22RR. The 22RR is wider, but too short. My plan is to buy both at the same time and measure both twice to make sure. On paper the polaris will fit with 5" to spare left and right, and 1" front to back (tight), but the center is longer than the sides so it might fit like a glove (hopefully not an OJ glove) haha.
Don't have that problem in the Jayco 222 toy hauler you can entrance the bathroom the front bed the frigerator the kitchen without even coming near the bike that's why I chose that one so I could pull over take a nap cook something eat something I use one stool and eat by the sink on their part of the countertop as I watch TV 12 volt
We looked at the Jayco, nice trailer but by the time we would have it loaded with the bike and gear it would weigh more than I wanted to pull. The 18 RR is about 1,000 lbs less and we are using a GMC Canyon as the tow vehicle. This is the lightest double axil toy hauler we could find that had the options we wanted. Glad you found something that fits your needs and wishing you safe and happy travels! Thanks for watching.
I have a Forest River toy hauler paid 30000.00, 2600 for extended warranty, the first time I took the bike off the trailer , I put the front breaks on and the linoleum tore like it was paper because they didn’t glue it down, near the ramp where you pick up speed after the back tire goes down the ramp. Forest River refused to fix under warranty saying it is my fault. I have a Harley Ultra Classic 950 lbs. They are lucky the front end didn’t kick out on me.
One time I saw the linoleum slide a little on mine too and could tell it wasn't glued down well, since then I have been extra careful. I hate to hear that your flooring tore. I have been thinking about putting down a strip of diamond plate where the bike sits and attaching it with some counter sunk screws. Glad you didn't drop your bike in the trailer, that could cause a lot of problems and damage.
Thank you for posting this video. I'm also really interested in small Toy Hauler like this one as well. Could you also talk about your tow vehicle and how well this trailer tows with motorcycle loaded (towards the rear of the trailer)? Would 4runner (rated 5000 lb towing capacity) be enough to tow this trailer or would the 4runner be too underpowered? Thanks.
I use a 2020 Canyon with factory tow package and I installed a brake controller and use weight distribution hitch. Trailer gross weight is around 6, 000 lbs with the truck capacity 7, 000 lbs. I make sure that I put enough cargo in the front to maintain at least a 10% tongue weight so it pulls pretty good. The front of the bike is actually over the axils so it is not too hard to balance the load properly. I would not try to pull my setup with anything smaller than the Canyon as the trailer is 4,400 lbs empty. here is a tow video for my truck. ruclips.net/video/1286_o-STSk/видео.html
The bolt it on looks like a really great system however (super smart and nice design) with my smaller RV I wouldn't be able to access some of the things in the kitchen and would have to crawl over the frame of the system to get to the back of the trailer. The reason I did mine the way I did is because I want to be able to use everything without unloading the bike at night on long trips.
Is that Canyon the diesel or V6? I'm thinking of getting this exact same trailer and tow it with my Colorado diesel. How well does your truck tow this trailer? Have you done trips halfway across the country with it?
Hope it works out for you as well as it did for us. I did a follow up video after a trip because we had a small issue with the straps on the rear of the bike rubbing on the saddle bags and one rear strap came loose on some really rough road. Over all we have pulled the bike 4,600 miles with no real issues and plan to keep using the same setup.
@@ensrvtipsntravels9595 Nice! Hey, so I copied your plan, but those mounted floor latches allow the ring to move slightly. How did you remedy that problem? Or has it been a problem? I’m thinking of putting a cardboard layer on the bottom to thicken the layer beneath the rack…
I did not have any problem with the slack in the rings. I did however fold the non skid shower mat to double it up under the front of the wheel chock to reduce any slack and tighten it up a bit, so putting something under it might be a good idea. With that sticky mat underneath and the weight of the front tire on the chock it never moved. If you hit the back of the chock hard when loading it will try to tip forward so take it easy as you roll into place. My concern was overtightening the straps. I was worried that the eye bolts would pull out of the chock or break but they seemed to hold up fine. On that particular wheel chock there is a nut welded on the inside of the tube so the threads wont pull out. We made a 4,600 mile trip and some of the roads were really rough and we never had a problem, nothing moved.
The Biker Bar is nice, but how are you going to get the plates on the bottom side of the floor? You might have to take a lot of the underside of the trailer apart.
LOL! You are so funny! I haul my Super Moto and Trail bike when I go camping. Then I have all the riding I want to do covered. I suppose you ride your bikes hundreds of miles a day, and then sleep on the ground?
I installed 4 threaded inserts into my floor, 4 3/8 bolts hold my wheel lock to the floor and they are flush with the floor when it’s removed. Fact is it’s hard to even see them when not in use. Very quick, easy and wheel lock is very compact without the added angle iron.
Nice job and creative thought in your design.
Thanks for sharing! Just built myself almost the same setup. Works great and no holes in the floor.👍🏻
Great to hear!
This is brilliant! Thanks so much for sharing! Would love to hear more about how you like your 18RR
So far we are pretty satisfied with it and glad it is the RV we chose to purchase. It is a little tight to move around inside with the bike loaded but everything was accessible during travel. more videos to come!
5:8 thumbs up! and thanks for watching!
What a great video. I had to do pretty much the same thing in my toyhauler. I would probably still be scratching my head on how to lock it down if I had seen your video. So thanks for sharing it.
Thank you for really great and informative video. I’m new to this RV lifestyle and love my VStar 950 . We just recently purchased our own little toy hauler and I’m discovering this new world of RV living.
Hope it was helpful. This is our first RV too and I am hoping to help others as I have learned much from the videos that I have watched. So far we have 4,600 miles hauling the bike with this system and no problems other than the straps in the back rubbed a little on the saddlebag and left a mark. Had to pad and reposition them.
Have fun with the new RV and safe travels!
love your set up, I was waiting to see how I could transport a motorcycle while pulling a trailer. This is the perfect solution.
We did a long distance haul and am working on an update vid. should be posted soon
Nice job also appreciate insight adapting to factory tie downs. Thank you
Great idea, nice job putting everything together. I just purchased a grey wolf 22RR and I'm going to use your design with my condor wheel chock. I appreciate the excellent video instruction.
Glad it was helpful, enjoy your travels!
Nice bike hook up. Thanks. Love the video. And love how It feels like it's an old skool recording 😄
Yeah, I am kind of old school, and I just want to help people have fun and travel safely. Plus I don't have any fancy equipment, just an old digital camera.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video! Thanks for taking the time to share. I did watch a video that had straps that would automatically sinch tighter if slack produced going over a bump. Pretty cool!
thanks for the tip, I am going to have to check those out!
Love your wheel chock mounting design ... I tie down my rear of my bike to the rear swing arm so the rear suspension isn't under constant stress
Great video! Thanks! I was wondering how I was going use the off set hooks with my bikes.
I hope the info helps.
Great video - I don't know why the trailer manufactures don't put a beaver tail in the floor to allow a more gradual ramp where nothing drags while loading. I've been looking at the same trailer that your using. My other dig would be how you have to remove the cable to the tail gate to lower the ramp.
Wow. Well made video. Looks like it’s an osha training video.
hope it was helpful
Good Stuff, Great Tips😃👍🏿
Glad it was helpful!
That solution is brilliant
Since you are dedicating these straps as your bike tie-downs, you can cut off some of the excess, especially in the front where the least amount of your strap is actually in use. Be sure to melt the end with a flame to prevent the strap’s raw end from unraveling.
Yeah, I hate to cut them just in case I have some emergency need for a set of long straps, but yes, you're right it would make things a little easier.
Great set up much like we do for our motorcycles in our toy hauler.
Thanks so much. Just purchased a 18 Grey Wolf and this was excellent info. Thanks
Glad it helped
Thank you for sharing, I will try this on my 18RJB Toy Hauler!!!
We almost got a 18rjb but it sold while we were still thinking about it and we missed out. Nice trailers!
Thanks for watching
Thank you for making this! Did you drag on the load of the bike? I can't wait for updates
Yes the bike did drag just a little going in as it only has about 4" of ground clearance. The higher you jack up the front of the trailer the flatter the angle of the ramp reducing drag. I always have the truck hooked up to the trailer for safety and stability when loading. I basically stood up to take my weight off the bike and helped it in at the top.
Thanks for asking and I hope this helps
Thank you for that. I am using an enclosed cargo trailer and the ramp angle is very manageable. Not sure I would enjoy loading and especially unloading a motorcycle from that height.
i travel a few times a year with my Road Glide in my toy hauler and just strap to the tie downs in the floor.. never a problem. just seems like a lot of work.
One of the reasons I used the wheel chock is because the front of the bike was not centered between the tie downs in the floor. It had to be off to one side so I could access the fridge, bathroom and kitchen in the RV without unloading the bike. A Second reason is because I hauled the bike 4,600 miles in the RV and wanted to make sure there wasn't going to be any problems.
Every bike/RV combination is different and this is what I came up with for my particular situation and thought some of the ideas might help someone else looking for solutions. The initial set up of the chock took a little time to get right but now it only takes about 5 minutes to put it in place using a ratchet and 9/16 end wrench, it is actually pretty easy it you don't disassemble it all the way.
What type of toy hauler are you using for your Road Glide? I am curious as to the layout of the tiedowns in the floor.
thanks for watching
@@ensrvtipsntravels9595 gotcha
Wait what you do not use a chock? Just the tie downs?
@@HarleyGurl114 yes for years. You don't need that.. if it gives you piece of mind then use one.. I have never used one my front tire has never even turned while tied down.
@@BlownC52000 Wow! We have two RoadGlides we use chocks for and tie downs but this is awesome to know!!!
I really appreciate you taking the time to share this, its ingenious. I've been looking at these 18RR Toy Haulers and mounting the wheel choke was a major concern I have a H-D touring bike and was wondering if the back end will fit. Do you have the measurement from the front of the wheel chock to the door Thank You
From where the front of the tire seats in the chock to the back is about 8'2" +/-. My bike is about 7'11" to the back of the luggage rack so it is pretty close but there is a few inches of gap between the ramp with the hand rails folded up. I think that you could put the chock to the front of the hooks in the floor instead of behind, basically put the angle on the back side of the cross tube and gain about 2 more inches. let me know how it works out for you!
hope this helps and good luck with your project,
thanks for watching
Great video. I've been going to the different videos pointing out that the wheel well is not load bearing... Very important. That means you lose 11" of width.
That is really important info, especially for those who haul golf carts and ATV's.
Great thought!
Thanks for this. The 18RR is #1 on my list and your work putting this together is perfect. My scoot is a bit lighter but just as bulky with a wide handlebar and 'adventure' bags. Accessing the trailer amenities while loaded is a top priority since we often stop at the local grocery on the way in to the park. Having a bike block access to everything just would not do. By the way, is that a Canyon you are using to haul the rig? How does that work out for you? My plans were to use my newer 2019 Ford Ranger. The loading plan just needs to be careful. Does the Canyon tow it well?
Yes it is a 2020 Canyon V6 with factory tow package. I installed a brake controller for the trailer. A ranger with factory tow package and turbo 4 cyl is rated for about 700 lbs more than the Canyon so I would think it would do the job. If memory serves me correctly, when properly equipped the Ranger is rated for 7,700 lbs but you have to watch the GCWR so the towing capacity can be less depending how the truck is loaded. We take our time towing when fully loaded with bike, water and supplies try to keep it between 60-65 mph. update video coming soon
Thank you for sharing. 👍🏿👍🏿
I've been looking at the 18RR. First time I've seen a bike inside! Thanks for the video. Wonder why they off set the front hooks?
I am not sure why they off set the front hooks. It is likely because of the layout of the floor plan and they wanted them as far apart as possible for stability when tying down. I think it is big enough inside to load two smaller bikes end to end using the front hooks but you might not be able to get into the bathroom with the trailer loaded. For now I only have the one bike so I haven't tried it. Have more vids to come soon.
Thanks for watching!
Great idea....I just purchased a B&W Biker bar simple sturdy mounting and easy removal,it would be great in a toy hauler like you have. I am looking to upgrade from a 6x12 cargo (toy hauler/camping) trailer a Grey wolf 18 RR or similar .
That looks like a really good system, looked it up and it is the first time I have seen one. For me, the only draw back would be placement in the toy hauler without putting anchors directly into the floor. I am not sure if I could get the bike where I want it using the factory tie downs. Will definitely keep it in mind for hauling on my utility trailer.
Good Mod👍
Excellent video thanks.
Well thought out.
hope it was helpful
I would like to see a video of how you unload the motorcycle and what you do at that moment when your feet don't touch the ground while halfway off the ramp. We had a 19RR for a couple of years. The deck height is high and the ramp is very steep - like you my feet an not reach to the ground when the front wheel starts up the ramp and the back wheel is on the pavement. While loading that is not a huge issue - but while unloading it is a very serious issue. I had to build a ramp extension that was 6' long and had legs at the front that elevated and would support the trailer ramp about 14" above the pavement. This allowed me to load and unload the motorcycle with my feet touching the ramp the entire time. It was the only way I could load/unload my 600 pound motorcycle safely. The ramp supports folded up and the ramp was stored flat against the back wall (ramp) when we were traveling. This ramp extension added about 10 minutes of time to set up while loading/unloading and it worked - but it was a bit tedious. We now have an RV and haul the motorcycle in an enclosed trailer with a floor height of 16" and it is far easier to load/unload the motorcycle.
First thing is to make sure that you are straight and well balanced. Then when you get to the point that it is difficult to reach the ground DON'T STOP for that two or three feet until you get solid footing again; you only have to balance for a second or two. (if you stop in the middle where you cannot touch it can get really difficult really quick) Also my wife is there when loading and unloading and she is often a great help just helping to steady the bike if needed by standing to the side and holding on to the luggage rack . It is a blessing to have a good helper.
You need to raise the front of the trailer as high as you can this lessons the pitch a great deal. I’m only 5’6” and didn’t have an issue when I jack the front up. Put the front and back stabilizer down so your trailer doesn’t move.
Thanks for posting a loading video. Not many out there are showing this. I'm curious what the maximum dimensions of a side by side would be for this hauler. We haven't bought either yet because it's a chicken and the egg situation where you need a toy that fits in your toy hauler and you need a toy hauler that fits your toy. When we decide on 1 it limits our choices on the other so we're doing our due diligence :)
My advice would be to get the dimensions of a few potential side by sides and compare them to the floor plans of different RVs; most of this can be found online at manufactures web sites. After putting a good size cruiser in our 18 RR there is not a lot of room left. The floor plan has the kitchen equipment/cabinets etc. down one side to allow it to be small with better options than other small toy haulers. It seems to be designed for motorcycles and narrow items. There are a lot of great options out there for toy haulers, you really have to decide what you really want and then decide if it is worth the cost.
We looked at a lot of smaller units and after purchasing the 18 RR we are glad we didn't try to skimp and go with a smaller trailer; it is worth a little more to get what you want rather than be unhappy with your purchase.
Hope this helps
@@ensrvtipsntravels9595 Thanks! They all seem to be designed for motorcycles. The funny thing is the 18RR has more side by side room than the 22RR. The 22RR is wider, but too short. My plan is to buy both at the same time and measure both twice to make sure. On paper the polaris will fit with 5" to spare left and right, and 1" front to back (tight), but the center is longer than the sides so it might fit like a glove (hopefully not an OJ glove) haha.
The kitchen bench in the 18 RR hangs out a little from the wall when it is folded up so you might lose a few inches there too
Don't have that problem in the Jayco 222 toy hauler you can entrance the bathroom the front bed the frigerator the kitchen without even coming near the bike that's why I chose that one so I could pull over take a nap cook something eat something I use one stool and eat by the sink on their part of the countertop as I watch TV 12 volt
We looked at the Jayco, nice trailer but by the time we would have it loaded with the bike and gear it would weigh more than I wanted to pull. The 18 RR is about 1,000 lbs less and we are using a GMC Canyon as the tow vehicle. This is the lightest double axil toy hauler we could find that had the options we wanted. Glad you found something that fits your needs and wishing you safe and happy travels! Thanks for watching.
@@ensrvtipsntravels9595 safe travels my friend enjoy your life Happy New Year
I have a Forest River toy hauler paid 30000.00, 2600 for extended warranty, the first time I took the bike off the trailer , I put the front breaks on and the linoleum tore like it was paper because they didn’t glue it down, near the ramp where you pick up speed after the back tire goes down the ramp. Forest River refused to fix under warranty saying it is my fault. I have a Harley Ultra Classic 950 lbs. They are lucky the front end didn’t kick out on me.
One time I saw the linoleum slide a little on mine too and could tell it wasn't glued down well, since then I have been extra careful. I hate to hear that your flooring tore. I have been thinking about putting down a strip of diamond plate where the bike sits and attaching it with some counter sunk screws. Glad you didn't drop your bike in the trailer, that could cause a lot of problems and damage.
Great video. Thank you for sharing. Thinking more and more about a toy hauler.
We really like it and wish we had more time to use it. This one is nice because it is great for camping even if you don't take the toys.
Great Idea!
Thanks for watching!
great info thanks for posting
Thank you for posting this video. I'm also really interested in small Toy Hauler like this one as well. Could you also talk about your tow vehicle and how well this trailer tows with motorcycle loaded (towards the rear of the trailer)? Would 4runner (rated 5000 lb towing capacity) be enough to tow this trailer or would the 4runner be too underpowered? Thanks.
I use a 2020 Canyon with factory tow package and I installed a brake controller and use weight distribution hitch. Trailer gross weight is around 6, 000 lbs with the truck capacity 7, 000 lbs. I make sure that I put enough cargo in the front to maintain at least a 10% tongue weight so it pulls pretty good. The front of the bike is actually over the axils so it is not too hard to balance the load properly.
I would not try to pull my setup with anything smaller than the Canyon as the trailer is 4,400 lbs empty.
here is a tow video for my truck.
ruclips.net/video/1286_o-STSk/видео.html
@@ensrvtipsntravels9595 Thank you. I will check out the linked video.
I bought a system that’s on line called boltiton, the guy is out of California, it cost around 700, worth every penny. Very easy to install.
The bolt it on looks like a really great system however (super smart and nice design) with my smaller RV I wouldn't be able to access some of the things in the kitchen and would have to crawl over the frame of the system to get to the back of the trailer. The reason I did mine the way I did is because I want to be able to use everything without unloading the bike at night on long trips.
Very helpful
Is that Canyon the diesel or V6? I'm thinking of getting this exact same trailer and tow it with my Colorado diesel. How well does your truck tow this trailer? Have you done trips halfway across the country with it?
V6
ruclips.net/video/1286_o-STSk/видео.html
OMG It sounds just like a Harley!!
So much for two 2x4s alongside the tires using the tie down system.
Nicely done… I’m copying your plan!
Hope it works out for you as well as it did for us. I did a follow up video after a trip because we had a small issue with the straps on the rear of the bike rubbing on the saddle bags and one rear strap came loose on some really rough road.
Over all we have pulled the bike 4,600 miles with no real issues and plan to keep using the same setup.
@@ensrvtipsntravels9595 Nice! Hey, so I copied your plan, but those mounted floor latches allow the ring to move slightly. How did you remedy that problem? Or has it been a problem? I’m thinking of putting a cardboard layer on the bottom to thicken the layer beneath the rack…
I did not have any problem with the slack in the rings. I did however fold the non skid shower mat to double it up under the front of the wheel chock to reduce any slack and tighten it up a bit, so putting something under it might be a good idea. With that sticky mat underneath and the weight of the front tire on the chock it never moved. If you hit the back of the chock hard when loading it will try to tip forward so take it easy as you roll into place.
My concern was overtightening the straps. I was worried that the eye bolts would pull out of the chock or break but they seemed to hold up fine. On that particular wheel chock there is a nut welded on the inside of the tube so the threads wont pull out.
We made a 4,600 mile trip and some of the roads were really rough and we never had a problem, nothing moved.
@@ensrvtipsntravels9595 Solid info, thanks! I got the shower matt yesterday & will see how it holds. I’m hitting the road next week!
What wheel chock are you using?
Looks exactly like my harbor freight one.
I recommend "Biker Bars" made by B & W Hitches. Great system!
The Biker Bar is nice, but how are you going to get the plates on the bottom side of the floor? You might have to take a lot of the underside of the trailer apart.
Easier to mount four new tie downs... I always criss cross tie down at six anchor points. It ain't going anywhere
I swear whoever designs these toy haulers has never hauled a damn thing. These D-rings are always mucked up.
Every Harley rider knows how to tie down a bike. They never ride them anywhere 😊
LOL! You are so funny! I haul my Super Moto and Trail bike when I go camping. Then I have all the riding I want to do covered. I suppose you ride your bikes hundreds of miles a day, and then sleep on the ground?
What kind of wheel chock are you using?
That looks like the Harbor Freight wheel chock.
Harbor Freight