International 2.4mR Sailboat Project - Episode 28 - Sheer structure
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- This is episode twenty eight of an ongoing series following the construction of a wooden International 2.4 metre class sailboat. The design is called the Stradivari Mk IV by Hasse Malmsten.
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I enjoy the 'figure it out as you go' process in this series. It is great to see how a fine craftsperson deals with a project that is a newish experience.
Glad you're enjoying the series Frank.
I like that you comment so much and show the whole workprocess. I am a boatbuilder myself but never got arround too much woodworking unfortunately.
While a picture may tell a thousand words, there’s always something that doesn’t convey in the picture. I’m just trying to provide as much useful information as I can related to any particular process. As you know, there are so many different ways to do things that I think it’s helpful to try and explain my thought process that went into any given course of action.
@@Nomadboatbuilding yes exactly. There is no way to convey the hands on aproach. But if you have soem experience with tools you can greatly benefit from someone sharing their thoughts and experience like you do. 👍🏼
Nice lesson in transferring lines and shapes
I'm not in the exact same spot. But am to an extent in my own build. I've held off going forward until I watched this. Glad I did. Extremely helpful if even from an organizational approach at the least.
Glad I could help Wes.
I don't often get to do a lot of stuff like this at work, so it's nice to see someone else do it and pick up on their tricks!
Well I wouldn’t say I have that many tricks. Those mostly come from frequent repetition. I prefer to think I come up with inspired immediate solutions.
@@Nomadboatbuilding I guess tricks is the wrong word. some of the ways you do things are definitely more creative than how I might have gotten it done.
Fantastic, watching your handling of wood is a extraordinary pleasure. It’s like you understand the nature of each piece your modelling. Very enchanting
Looking good my friend, looking good!!!
Great job Mark ! Looks Great and that situation won’t turn up for another 15 or 20 yrs so you will have plenty of time to figure some alternative methods. I was thinking to block it off, lay Saran Wrap over it and cover the bevel with blue tape and fill the interior with spray foam for a plug pattern but creeping up on it a little at a time like you did was probably quicker and less taxing on the budget.
I see where you’re going there. Then pull a silicone mold off of that then cast the finished part with epoxy ramen noodles and carbon fibre dust, right?!
@@Nomadboatbuilding That does smells good !, right, twenty ninety nine ways, but you were halfway done before I would of had the Saran Wrap un-cling’d ✌️😆🪕
Mahogany and white cedar sunburst on the transom would be lovely.
Great work love the video
Darren.
Good suggestion.
@@Nomadboatbuilding it’s always nice to give your sailing competitors something to look at as you sail away. 😂
That same sentiment has been floated b6 the customer.
Very nice, lucky sailor!
Thats a " get it done" job.. no smiles, lots of worry and hidden away once built...
Out of curiosity: is it known or calculable how much force the backstay will put on the stern? I think your solution will be more than strong enough, but maybe it could be made a little lighter? No idea what the weight of the wooden piece is and it's a straight forward and strong solution without overengineering things, but on the other hand you want as little weight in bow and stern as possible. PS I like it when people are able to laugh at themselves. Greatings, Bas
Hi Bas, it is calculable but I think the only usable number you’ll get is the shear forces on the back stay fastener. I think what we have is reasonably beefy without going overboard. The yellow cedar is good for holding fasteners too.
Beautiful work! How do you call this shapetaking tool?
I believe they are called a finger gauge.
6:35 the rhythm of the boat builder or musician ? ; )
WOW! That wasn't stressful at all! Was it... Ummm questions, ideas...
The thickened epoxy (you've probably mentioned before) what's the open time. It must be quite long for that "in-wall" glue-up..
Quick thought, do you suppose the application would be easier using a pastry bag and a flattened cone tip...? Then brush it out after. And maybe a band of masking tape on the outside to protect that precious varnish from the ravages of spring clamps...
Also that insane stern block. What if you sort of damed up the area and cast a plaster of paris template to work off of.. Once the cast has dried out, you can tune it up a bit and work directly off it. Too late now of course, but maybe future applications. You really need to talk to me first before you do these things... Lol..
I don’t know if the plaster cast would help much. Maybe if you had a, whats-it called, repro something or other machine. The pastry bag is a great idea. Should have thought of that. The taped off sheer too. Not my brightest day in the shop. The epoxy has about a 20 minute open time if I use the fast hardener. I probably used a slower one for this glue up. Those open times increase somewhat as you spread the epoxy out. They are exothermic so the greater the volume of epoxy in one heap, the faster it will kick off. For that reason I try to work in smaller batches if it is convenient.
@@Nomadboatbuilding hello from Ontario Canada... just a note, instead of a pastry bag, I’ve used ziplocks and just cut the corner off... Cheap and easy and likely already a “boatload” of ziplock bags kicking around the kitchen.
Love the progress, she’s going to be a BEAUTY!
Cheers.
I often just whip one up out of wax paper but I also discovered dollar/party stores stock plastic candy cone bags of just the right size.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Were you thinking 3D printer? It's possible with a hand-scanner.. The cast would give you a 3D model of the shape though, from which one could produce a router template once it's cleaned up. Plus angles can be more easily tested and transferred. That's my thinking anyway...
@@brianrobertson6475 if I had to involve a computer in what I do it would only quadruple the time it would take me to do it.
At time 12:10- perhaps you could make a direct paper template and not have to deal with parallax distortion. lay the jig directly on piece of tracing paper, then transfer paper outline directly to the wooden block? only a possible suggestion for the next build?
That’s way too much effort. We just maintain an anti-parallax squint most of the time.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Yes- only mentioned as another technique if it was a more complicated part to fabricate. cheers.
Some lodging knee type thing in the stern from the inwale to the stern block?
Oh I certainly entertained that idea for a few moments but then slapped myself back to reality.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Was that an alternate reality?
@@richardhoffman9729 Possibly. Did you see that blue aardvark fly by as well?
Great stuff, I’m wondering though, you didn’t have the right glue and not enough soft nose clamps. Are you sure you have planned this properly? ha ha only kiddin excellent work we’ve all been there. J🏴
Not everyday starts with a plan.
*Un-de-scribable* 😉
Nailed it!
@@Nomadboatbuilding 👍🎯
Can boats be made without plans?
Yes they can. I build all my skin-on-frame kayaks without plans. There are many types of boats out there that are, but without some prior boat building experience it could prove pretty challenging for some. Try it yourself with a cardboard model. You may find the process very educational.
have you tried any Japanese planes, they pull instead of push.
Yes. I have one or two. While I almost exclusively use Japanese saws I prefer western planes.
The peculiarities of how words are pronounced; the word gunwale is pronounced gunnel not gun-whale, so you would think the inwale would be the same. Alas not!
Yup. Go figure.