JBL EON 500 515XT 300 Reliability Modification JBL 140296-6JBL / 444969-001 Design Issues on 240V
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- Опубликовано: 12 окт 2024
- These JBL Speakers sound good but they have reliability issues in the switch mode power supply design leading to catastrophic failure of the semiconductors. I spent a couple of days finding out what was wrong and have come up with a modification. Looking for interested owners who want to protect their investment in their JBLs
HI there, thanks for the amazing repair videos. Ive just got one of these in for repair, and U603 has a sunroof... Is there any chance that you can post a link to the mod boards, or the wiring schematic for the mod, so I can look to install it once I have replaced all of the silicon? Thanks.
Sure. What mains voltage are running?
@@razenby240v 50hz (uk)
Hi, been watching your videos on these JBL515 and 315, thanks for a lot of good information. I'm considering modifying my 515 to avoid them getting wrecked every summer (thunderstorms), did you create any modificationboard?
I did but I have used them all. If you are working only on 220 - 240V and don't need 110V operation then remove the doubler relay. (this applies to units that are rated at 100-220V AC on the product label). AND always connect the speaker to the mains supply via a surge protector. They aren't adequately protected internally. See the Brennestuhl range and connect to via this at the end of any extension lead NIT where the extension lead is plugged into the mains.
Hi, as i commented before i am going to attempt fixing a 515 and a old 315 that i had put to aside after it blew when i switched it off and on again, (after replacing the igbts and complentary drive pairs).. i am quite interested in your reliability mod pcb any updates on that subject?
Cheers
What IGBTs did you use - were they genuine parts or fakes? did you buy froma reputable source, If you have the universal supply version and don't need to power from 110-120V MAINS then disable the voltage doubling circuit. This is problematic and causes failure at power up. I always change all the active components in the power supply and the resistors in the igbt gate drive circuitry.. If fitted then remove the flip flop and the comparator. Power the unit without the IGBTs fitted and check the low voltage DC output of LNK off line supply chip is stable usually around 12V DC.
Hi, you've been a great help to me in fixing EON 510's, but now I've tried to fix 515 with all output and PS trenchfets blown, removed all power fets/trenchfets, changed all IC's and drive trnsistors (except TL494, it showed square wave at about 100kHz and good 5v ref.) Without IGBT's everything looked OK, 12V control, about 8V p-p drive at 10ohm resistors. After I've installed IGBT's, Vcc and al the rest voltages were fine (no output mosfets, preamp ribbon disconnected), but after 2min IGBT's exploded and I'm back to square one... What I've done wrong?
Thanks a million for your help!
You cant operate it with preamp disconnected - the preamp is the base load for the SMPS without it loading there insufficient current draw from the secondary and the SMPS won't regulate. This could be why your fets exploded. Which IGBTs dis you fit? No good fitting them without static precautions or they may explode. Seriously _ I doubted it but I used to get the same problem. Earth yourself and your soldering iron and the amp they all need to be at the same potential. If you have a universal input version and you just need 220-240V then remove the Comparator and the JK flip flop chips and teh doubling relay (in case it is stuck). False triggering of 110V mode on 240V supply will causes havoc. An you have to change ALL the acitve components on teh high side.
@@razenby Thanks, you're the best! I assumed that it was enough load on power board ( voltage regs and rest of IC's...), my bad.I used IKP20N60T IGBT's from Mouser.I'll try all over again with static precautions. Does it make sense to disable doubling relay comparator here in States (120V)and permanently connect 1/2Bulk and Doubler?
Would you be so kind enough to also do a video on the reliability modification for the Bose SoundDock not powering up / Processor Board problem?
I could take a look at it. I have fixed many of them but have to load patched firmware using the JTAG interface and the development system. What is the serial number of your dock?
@@razenby
Hi there & thank you for replying
The Serial nos. is 040250962752017AE
This is the original/1st series Bose SoundDock
When I swap the Processor board on my other working SD it worked on this unit, hence I believe the problem lies on the Processor Board. I initially suspected the 072C OpAmp but it turns out those OpAmps are good (I removed them & had not had the time to solder them back again)
Now I suspect that the circuit driving the Mode Pin of the TDA8922 Amp Chip is the cause of the problem.
Am I correct to assume the Mode is stuck on Standby?
A friend said all I have to do is apply 5 volts on Pin 6 (Mode Pin of TDA8922) to get it to switch On. Have not tried this yet.
I wonder how you fix yours...
best regards
Dennis
What other components will fail to cause C645 to melt or what components usually go with C645 when it fails to cause no power on issue. Bought one after testing good, got it home and immediately no power on. Thanks.
Could be a bad cap but I have never seen that particular one fail. If an external condition caused it to fail then it would be over-voltage between teh +VCC and -VCC rails. Best bet is to change it and meter all the FETs for shorts. The Poser supply voltage is controlled by enabling and disabling the oscillator on the TL491. Check the doubler relay isn't stuck shut. If you find any blown components on the mains SMPS side then you are going to have to follow the video and change all the active components and the resistors detailed in the video.
Odd thing is it worked when I bought it, tested it and an hour later no power? C645 melted but still shows life but no within specs.
Hello! Is there any possibility that the power supply works at 110v only by making some changes to the logic board?
Yes. Just short the black relay contacts. Then it will permanently on 110VAC mains operation. please like and subscribe. Thanks.
@@razenby Thanks! the 515XT now works like a charm!
Hi, after my IGBT's blew, I changed all semis, new IKT 20n60T, power supply stars and shows good voltages, but IGBT's get super hot instantly... I disconnected C631, same heating without any load. At Q606 collector waveform is sine. When supplying 13V at 15V control and putting 1K resistor at U602 pin2-12, I see square wave appr.104KHZ at Q606 gate. What can be wrong with power drive? Thanks again
Q605 and Q606? Use GB20B60PD1 They run cool reliably. GB20B60PD1 is obsolete but there are plenty about - make sure you use IR (international Rectifier). Don't run it until you change them. Some Brands of the others don't turn off fast enough.
Thanks, I'll try to gfind them...
@@razenbyso the ikp20n60t from infinion are no good for these boards? I cant seem to find a reliable source for the gb20b60pd1..
Nor the complementary pair ksa..
Hello,
I have some 4 amp modules(515xt) blown (both power supply and power amplifier part). Can I send them to you for repairs?
Yes, I do 515 most days. Ark.mail@gmx.com £79.00 each. Service includes full dynamic and frequency response check, reliability modifications.
TP-603-TP-602 starts at 2k ohms, drops to 1.7k ohms then slowly rises to 1.9k ohms and stops. Per service manual, should start at 2k ohms and rise from there. Could this cause no power on issue? Thanks.
No. Check for shorted FETs in the LF output stage and the SMPS HV FETS. Change teh Buck inductor and the LNK30X chip. Then follow the video...No shortcuts else it will go bang..
Have had any luck with repairing the JBL light on an EON 515XT? How to get access to it, seems to be glued in? Thanks.
@@Alan-bl8xo Sorry never tried. You can turn it on and off with the switch on the input panel.
Yeah, I see where it can be turned on/off, but I've got two the are knocked in and lights are not working and piece holding light to frame doesn't pop out and no access to it from inside housing. Maybe you've got one you could look at? Might be of some interest on RUclips. Maybe it's a common issue? Thanks.
I bought one after testing good, got it home and no power on issue. I'm seeing now that C645 is melted. Pulled it and of course tests bad. Could this cause no power on issue and what other components usually fail before or with C645 failing. I've gone around and checked components from the video and don't have any shorted FETs in the LF output stage and all resistors mentioned read within spec. Thanks.
I ask about the 12v relay😊what is the purpose of this relay. It is necessary to remove
It switches in the voltage doubling circuit for operation on 110V mains supply. If you don't need 110V because you only have need of 230-240V AC operation then remove the relay as it is a reliability liability.
So, if want to operate on 110V only?@@razenby
@Magic Smoke, Ihave a couple of JBL Eon 515XT, on one of them sometimes I loose the tweeter during a random period and come back, I also notice depending where the place I work there is some loud crack sound coming ou the speaker, is this root cause can be fix by your reliability modification ?
Hi Nicolas, Check the large wire wound resistor hasn't snapped at the junction with its body. This causes the HF amp chip to overheat and go into thermal shutdown. This fault is covered in another video just about the fault. Otherwise you may have a failing chip in the Preamp HF compressor channel. However when they warm up and cut out they usually don't cut back in again until you switch off and cool off. Check the wiring loom to the HF driver - particular that the spade connectors are tight, and if you can swap the driver to rule that out. The crackling could be anything breaking down. They are usually pretty good at filtering out mains bourne noise. Have you the supply earth connected properly at the venue and your power cables? The modification just deals with the switch mode power supply self destruct issue.
@@razenby I'll try to open it and check the resistor, for the rest I don't hve enough skills
Can a bad K600 relay cause C645 to melt? Replaced C645 and jumped pin 3 to pin 4 on K600 and have power on and signal now. Any connection between the two(2) components? Thanks.
No. C645 decouples the bias voltage supply. Either the bias voltage circuit went screwy and overvoltaged the part or the cap is a sponataneous failure (destroyed itself) , Did it get destroyed after the power transistors were changed? A gate drain short on an output FET can back-feed VCC to the circuit. usually then the gate drain barrier breaks down in the FET it will cause a short on all 3 electrodes. Drain to Gate shorts with O/C Source are unusual but they can happen.
Hi.
Can you Please do a video on repairing boards that have the right angled modulator board such as the 3-way PRX stuff.
Yes, next time I do one Ill film it. usually it is the Power supply or amplifier that blows. Are you sure that you have a problem with your class D servo board?
@@razenby I will confirm in the next few days. Thanks for your reply!!
@@razenby Hi Yes definitely an issue on that board.
Replaced C645 and power came on. Turned it off to plug in a signal and no power on issue again. Any ideas what is causing this? Thanks.
No sorry, I gave you the low-down on this already. Unless you can do some meaningful diagnostics it wont work. You need to take measure the voltage on the VCC + and VCC- rails. Did you take the power board of the heatsink? Unless you put it back very carefully the devices will short to the heatsink.
TP-603-TP-602 starts @ 2k ohms, drops to 1.7k ohms and slowly rises to 1.9k ohms and stops. Per service manual it should start at 2k ohms and rise. Could this be causing the no power on issue I've got? Thanks.
No, ignore the fault finding guide. This is a daft statement as it depends on the sensing current and potential you particular meter uses to measure resistance. Measuring voltage on a resistance range?? If you need to know why your unit isn't powering up then watch the videos. The complete repair process is covered. The main UK JBL authorised importer refer all the kit that they can't or wont fix to us and we fix ALL of it. We have a repair production line set up with diagnostic engineer, PCB rework operator and assembly and test technicians. If you want your fixed you wont get a 12 month warranty or such a low price anywhere. We have seen the crap turned out by other so called repairers. Jacks of all trades and master of none.
This JBL EON 515xt I'm working on was working when tested to buy it. Got it home and would not power on. Noticed C645 looks melted to me but shows voltage up and down.
My EON615 IS NOT TURNING ON what's the problem
Probably caused by the usual suspects... Bad schoolboy design, poor quality components - mistakes during assembly or all three. Want me to fix it?
Ola Boa noite ! Estou com uma Caixa igual essa em minha Bancada , não tem os 15 e nem -15 ? tenho as tensões de entrada da fonte , lnk estourou coloquei uma fonte de 15 no lugar, tl494 , chega as tensoes 15 no pino 12 grand no 7? obrigado desde , sou seu fã aqui no canal
¡El traductor no fue amable con tu mensaje! Un mejor video para que lo veas es ruclips.net/video/rRl4mZ6IU2c/видео.html que se ocupa de la reparación de la placa. No estoy seguro de qué JBL eON tienes. Las series 210, 300 y 500 usan más o menos la misma fuente de alimentación. No sirve de nada cambiar esto o aquello. He reparado cientos de ellos y cambio todos los semiconductores, transistores de accionamiento y resistencias en la fuente de alimentación. Esto incluye el chip LNK302 y el inductor buck 300nH también. De lo contrario, cuando vuelva a encender y explote y esté de vuelta donde comenzó. Asegúrese de que el relé de duplicación de voltaje no esté bloqueado y que los capacitores de suavizado de alto voltaje del lado de potencia grande tengan un voltaje equilibrado (el mismo dentro de + -3 voltios). Asegúrese de que los FETS en la etapa de salida de LF no estén en corto.
@@razenby The video is private ruclips.net/video/rRl4mZ6IU2c/видео.html
@@gleisondivi Sorry. Now public. Let me know if Spanish subtitles would be useful.
@@razenby yes!
He basically said (in Portuguese, mind you, not Spanish):
_Good evening! I have a speaker of the same model on my bench, with both the +15V and -15V rails absent. Power supply input voltages read ok, the LNK ic is blown and I've connected a 15V power supply in its place. +15V on pin 12 of the TL494 is present, as well as GND on pin 7. Thanks in advance. I'm a big fan of yours._
Hello again Sir I would like to say very educational. If I may ask a stupid question and I fully accept the the keyboard warrior abuse... but I have been fixing electric items for years and was employed by lotus as technician for 15 years. Worked at pilling Volvo under the the SIPS impact system, also have my qualification in computer tech. Here or there I have seen the wife doing nails with acetone. I use IPA at moment to clean away flux and as we call it crumbs from PCB, What in your opinion would this do to a common PCB ? Can we conduct some test? Stupid question I know but like I say will take abuse but if you never ask your never learn surely. All the best Brian
Hi Brian, . Acetone is a good solvent for many plastics and some synthetic fibers and is much more aggressive than IPA. We did a risk assessment a few years ago on board cleaning and IPA came out the least hazardous solvent to use. If you spill IPA it doesn't attack the desktop or any plastic parts. Actually IPA is very effective at cleaning plastics. Solvent and cleaning resistance isn't cited much in component datasheets these days as most production processes are now no-clean. I wouldn't use acetone but be careful if you do. It could attack connector bodies and beepers or anything with plastic parts on the board.
Hi, Good day, i hope you can help me on my JBL EON 515 (not XT) the REGULATOR TRANSISTOR q605 & q606 was blown up, and it is really hard for me to get the part number of this transistor as it was badly blown off, i have no idea about this, my friend who has limited knowledge of this one as well told me that maybe it is because of these transistor, please help me in providing the part number of these, and also any other part that needs to be replaced. Thank you very much and have a nice day.
GB20B60PD1 for Q 505 506. You will also have to change: R626, R 628, Q601,602,603,604, U603, U602, U608 else it will go bang when you turn it back on!!!
My JBL EON 515 powers on.
However, there is no sound.
Any pointers or ideas as to how I can go about repairing it myself?
Thanks!
Yes look at the videos.
@@razenby Which one specifically pertains to the issue I'm having with my JBL?
You have a few videos with you working on them.
Thanks!
Hi there I would be interested in paying for the modification
Hi Steve, sorry I am busy working on design contract at the moment so have zero spare time.
@@razenby thanks for getting back to me I would appreciate it if you could just let me have a circuit diagram 208p it is definitely different to the ones that you've mentioned then caps do not exist on this board thank you very
How do we go about contacting you to get an amp board for the 515xt repaired ?
sales@invebo.com
POWER SOPPIY IC U608 LNK??
Power inetgration LNK 302 - a travesty visited upon the land-fill of the earth. So many domestic appliances junked because of one very weak link in the design chain....
Hi, my JBL prx 716 no output from speakers, but signal going thru mixer, any inputs
Sounds like it has locked out or the Amp has shut down. They have a habit of doing that. I cant diagnose remotely.
@@razenby can I troubleshoot my self
Do you know how to bypass or repair the thermal overload sensor?
Which circuit is that in?
@@razenby my amp works fine but it will get to normal operating temp and shutoff. I was trying to bypass the temp circuit which initiates the shutdown to the amp. I took off the diode that pulls the shutdown circuit into operation but it didnt work. Thinking im just going to disable the shutdown circuit instead somehow.
@@razenby I have power, signal and leds on but the amplifier will shutoff due to temp. I used to have a fan mounted on the back of the speaker and that kept it working for events but im tired of the fan sound.
Almost 270volts that's too much. Get an avr to make it down to 220volts
I know .. It does stress stuff out..... An AVR is a good idea.
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