Do you find that it’s more efficient to use a buncher on yarder ground? Or the directional head? I have a yarder and am thinking about which route to go for mechanical harvesting. We frequently log a lot of smaller wood, which I’ve always heard is better for a buncher. Also, we’re almost always thinning, rarely in a clear cut. Awesome videos, thank you!
@@wantowski987 generally ranges from 20- 50 ft spacing. Some prescriptions are a little heavier on the leave tree side, some are pretty heavy cuts looking to retain seed trees. Generally the wood is anywhere from 9-20” on the stump. Rarely bigger than that!
@@123brutalmetal depending on the steepness and your spacing the hot saw is the way to go in that size timber but with the grapple saw you can cut and hand it over to the thinning corridors
Hey as someone who only has experience logging with harvesters and forwarders. Is there a method to shovel logging the bunches? as in do you shovel one pile to the deck at a time or do you move multiple piles at once till you reach the deck? its a very green question. Love the videos always like learning more on this style of logging keep it up!
70 grand hahah that’s a dealer thing, by berco from other company’s it’s about 40 grand for complete undercarriage on 830d and 755 bunchers. Dealers nowa days are scammers corruption and greed is all that lives there.
@@wantowski987 So what’s the difference between a 855 and a 870 other than the saw?? Or is that the only difference? Couldn’t you just put one of these saws on that machine?
@@crandonborth my 855 has a harvester boom on it for the falling head, the 870 has a pump for the saw and the tracks so it multi functions a lot better than the 855
@@quintinmetcalfe8587 just the fact when you run a hotsaw, you cut the tree and put in a pile and never see it again lol my grapple saw on my 855 is designed to cut and log with that head!
PS you said you want to change your tilt speed? I'm sure a good hydraulic guy at your way can open that restrictor orifice to get some more flow through that cylinder, it might be advantageous for you to time the full throw of that tilt head. That way when the machine is being worked on the mechanic will be able to dial it in instead of just telling them I want it a little bit faster? You know what I mean. Thanks again I had to say something. And if the mechanic says I can't drill it or grind it because it's super hard Steel just tell him to heat it up take the restrictor out it's only like the size of a quarter heat it up with the torch let it cool down slowly then you can just open it up with either a small grinder that they use for D sharpening Tooling in Machinery if he has one of those but the Dremel or you can drill it 50,000 larger or whatever he decides I don't know what size hole that would be on the restrictor and how much gpm is running to that tilt mechanism, but tell him he can do anything to it like soft metal after he takes a temper out of it. Then when he's done tell him to heat it up again and check it in some water then some oil right afterwards like 30 seconds in water 10 seconds in water into the oil and I'll get it hard as it was before. Just letting you know all the problems that arrive. Good luck
Bunching and hand cutting was always my favorite. Thanks for the sweet vidja!
I'm 71 years old I've seen a lot of things ran a lot of equipment, you're very very good operator!
Bunching is the best job in the woods by far.
I have been bunching with my own machine 7 years now.
Man, that was a dang good video right there. Keep them coming brother and I would rather a hot saw any day over a dangle head.
BOY OH BOY do i ever miss running a buncher 😔
Good Video
Do you find that it’s more efficient to use a buncher on yarder ground? Or the directional head? I have a yarder and am thinking about which route to go for mechanical harvesting. We frequently log a lot of smaller wood, which I’ve always heard is better for a buncher. Also, we’re almost always thinning, rarely in a clear cut. Awesome videos, thank you!
Just depends on the wood, how tight is your thinning spacing?
@@wantowski987 generally ranges from 20- 50 ft spacing. Some prescriptions are a little heavier on the leave tree side, some are pretty heavy cuts looking to retain seed trees. Generally the wood is anywhere from 9-20” on the stump. Rarely bigger than that!
@@123brutalmetal depending on the steepness and your spacing the hot saw is the way to go in that size timber but with the grapple saw you can cut and hand it over to the thinning corridors
Hey as someone who only has experience logging with harvesters and forwarders. Is there a method to shovel logging the bunches? as in do you shovel one pile to the deck at a time or do you move multiple piles at once till you reach the deck? its a very green question. Love the videos always like learning more on this style of logging keep it up!
Thanks! Multiple piles that are manageable to the processor deck
Love the video man how are you today srry it took 10 days
Didn’t even see your comment! I’m doing good! How about yourself?
I am really good man can’t get better it’s been a good day god bless
With that saw spinning so close to the cab i hope the window is tough... feels like something could come thru the glass lol
I reckon they like inch or so thick bullet proof glass in them
They’re usually polycarbonate (like lexan or plexiglass) but yeah the front window is about an inch thick and literally just about bulletproof
70,000 for new undercarriage....dam!!and only 7,000hrs on machine,can't wait to see your new hot saw in big wood
More hot saw vids!
Hopefully get back in it soon! Gotta go finish a job up with the other tiger first
Ya know kinda wishing i would've went to be a logger instead of a farmer
About how much money does boss man get for say 1000 trees?
Not sure
70 grand hahah that’s a dealer thing, by berco from other company’s it’s about 40 grand for complete undercarriage on 830d and 755 bunchers. Dealers nowa days are scammers corruption and greed is all that lives there.
You’d rather cut in the bigger wood with a hot saw instead of the bar saw?
Rather just run a hotsaw then my falling head on my 855
@@wantowski987 So what’s the difference between a 855 and a 870 other than the saw?? Or is that the only difference? Couldn’t you just put one of these saws on that machine?
@@crandonborth my 855 has a harvester boom on it for the falling head, the 870 has a pump for the saw and the tracks so it multi functions a lot better than the 855
@@wantowski987 so mainly just the power of the 870 is what you like so much more
@@quintinmetcalfe8587 just the fact when you run a hotsaw, you cut the tree and put in a pile and never see it again lol my grapple saw on my 855 is designed to cut and log with that head!
PS you said you want to change your tilt speed? I'm sure a good hydraulic guy at your way can open that restrictor orifice to get some more flow through that cylinder, it might be advantageous for you to time the full throw of that tilt head. That way when the machine is being worked on the mechanic will be able to dial it in instead of just telling them I want it a little bit faster? You know what I mean. Thanks again I had to say something. And if the mechanic says I can't drill it or grind it because it's super hard Steel just tell him to heat it up take the restrictor out it's only like the size of a quarter heat it up with the torch let it cool down slowly then you can just open it up with either a small grinder that they use for D sharpening Tooling in Machinery if he has one of those but the Dremel or you can drill it 50,000 larger or whatever he decides I don't know what size hole that would be on the restrictor and how much gpm is running to that tilt mechanism, but tell him he can do anything to it like soft metal after he takes a temper out of it. Then when he's done tell him to heat it up again and check it in some water then some oil right afterwards like 30 seconds in water 10 seconds in water into the oil and I'll get it hard as it was before. Just letting you know all the problems that arrive. Good luck