Your fist indication should have been that the whole thing was painted in one shot, except the covers. When I build an engine, I refinish every part before assembly, you can literally see every gasket isn't painted over, its a fresh and clean finish with everything indepently put on with care to the fit and finish of the engine.
I do a full spray once everything is assembled to ensure there is no bare metal where a gasket mating surface isn't completely used isn't bare metal left exposed. But when you see paint on top of the heads under the valve cover, you know zero care was given
@RAYROTHSTEIN66 Well, I did see that, and I have bought engines that have been spray bombed before. I think what the biggest issue is that they played me. I was looking for an engine to go with my Machine. Probably put too much trust in people.
@kyleh3615 to get around the unpainted surfaces, say like a timing cover or the intake to head connection.. I just loosely put the intake on with a gasket, take a pencil and mark the clean metal. Remove the part and put a piece of clear packing tape over the area and cut it along the pencil line, remove the unneeded tape and mask off the rest. Spray what you need and peel the tape as it's setting up to avoid paint pull.
Too soon to say about the pistons being clocked backwards. Im not an AMC guy, but judging from the valve reliefs on the pistons, it APPEARS that the pistons can be clocked 180° without valve to piston interference. There are SOME (race)engine builders who claim piston offset(& piston slap) can be ignored for purposes of more HP. I'm not claiming that that was this builder's intention, but it is a possibility. Like you said, it will be interesting to see if the rods are oriented properly on the crank pins. That will probably indicate a lot about the expertise of the builder. I feel for you, because what I've seen so far, does not look like it's worth anything near what you paid for it. Good luck. You'll probably have to check and verify EVERY last thing on this to satisfy yourself.
@budlanctot3060 My son made me aware of that. However, the rod caps are designed to take oil into the main bearings with the rotation of the crank. If the rods were assembled in the stock configuration and simply turned 180 degrees.The forces generated by the rotation will effectively not allow the oil to enter the bearing and starve the lower end. I hope that isn't the case. But, we will know soon.
@autosoulsgarage7277 I don't much about AMC engines but I suspect they are not THAT much different than old Mopar. In Mopars there are chamfers in the bores of the rods. The chamfers are supposed to face the nearest cheek of the crank's rod journals. Also, there is a spit hole on the rod/rod cap parting line. When oriented properly, the spit hole faces the cam and spits oil onto the camshaft.
Flipping pistons is an old hot rod trick but the rod cheeks must be corect if you don't chthe rods on the pins you also have to change sides.my question when someone says a motor is rebuilt my question is usually ya but how much
Flipping the pistons, when dealing with a piston with offset pin bores, doesn't do SHIT for the engine power OR longetivity.... It's been tested over and over, and there's NOTHING to be gained by doing it. ZERO!
HOWDY A-S-G, ... Interesting DOG-Leg Exhaust Ports = Later model HEADS on an allegedly 1968 / 1969 Engine that came with RECTANGULAR Exhaust Ports & I never subscribed to that UNDER Intake Manifold EXTRA Oil Line ... Thanks COOP the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA ... ...
There's a lot of stuff to check when building a motor. Casting numbers, piston quench, rocker arm geometry, replacement of common wear parts, ect... proper piston orientation now🤦♂️. I hate that this happened to you! Now, you're going to want to want to magnafux the block and heads, check the cam, the main caps, the rod caps... I don't envy your experience with this engine. Good warning, thanks for the information in this video.
And what did you pay for this thing? My last big block that I had built cost me approx. $32,000, BUT, it was built by a reputable builder, came WITH all receipts, came with all the parts manuals, literature, and contingency stickers, I received a build sheet with every spec for every clearance and setting of everything in the motor, AND the engine was dynoed (which i got to witness) and I received the dyno sheets for all 16 pulls, the oil filter was taken off the motor after the pulls and cut open right in front of me to inspect it, and then the motor was removed from the dyno, all open ports taped up, the entire thing crated, and forklifted into the back of my truck, and then a final receipt was given to me for all the work done, and presented to me (along with all the before mentioned paperwork) in a very nice logo'd company folder. The engine is on it's 3rd season of mid 9-second quarter mile passes in a 3750lb car with zero issues.... and there's more in it if I wanted to turn it up some more.. 🤷🏻 You DO get what you pay for
I am confused. You claim to be an expert and have a video on how to ID an AMC V-8, yet you didn't see the obvious clue it wasn't a Gen 2 390. The dog leg vs rectangular exhaust ports, no disassembly required. The other obvious error is that you incorrectly said the priority oiling line is in the incorrect location and then point to the water jacket (also claim to have a video on this)🤦♂. The line is in the correct location in the passenger side lifter oil galley between cylinders 6 & 8. The purpose of this line is to take oil from the front of the engine off the line from the oil pump and inject into the passenger side lifter oil galley, which is where the mains get their oil supply. The reason is at high rpm the oil pressure loses from the front to the rear of the engine due to drops at each lifter. These are control leaks in the engine. It is also recommended to put a restrictor in the driver's side lifter oil galley to limit the oil to this side. Also, most engine builder don' t use the supplied seals for the china walls because of leaking, but rather use silicone. Since there is a deck height difference between Gen 2 and Gen 3 engines of .043" something had to be machined to make it fit. BTW, those valve covers are Chinese junk. You can google search them all day. And who pays $10k for aerosol overhauled engine?
@@autosoulsgarage7277 I would not trust this one bit. 100% Tear down measure and exam everything. Probably not even balanced. I have under 10K In my 71 401 roller engine with special MODs on it. has the 291-C 1971 Heads which are adj, I upgrades to 7/16’s BBC studs, and went 315W Steelies RRA for the roller cam. Anyway, what Alum intake would you recommend? I want to reuse my OEM air cleaner setup in a 78 J10. The Torker looks a bit too tall , however have NOT seen much talk on its fitment for my rig so I’m in search mode now.
@yafois988 The Torker manifold is just what it says. Because of the higher plenum, it slightly increases the torque of the engine. That said, AMC engines are high torque by design. I believe that Edelbrock still makes it, but I haven't seen one on a 401. Edelbrock makes the Performer RPM, and that one is really popular. But, if you ask me for my favorite. Hands down, it would be the Air Gap.
The fact that the pushrods are used doesn't make them bad. The strenth of the pushrod i dont think should be a issue. What is more important about the pushrods is if they are the proper lenth. Most people buy new pushrods during a build is not becouse the old ones are worn out, but becouse with any changes to deck hight or milled heads or cam & lifter changes made or different rockers all will affect valve train geometry so new pushrods are required for proper lenth, not becouse of the integrity of the pushrod itself.
If ANYBODY has rebuilt more than a few engines, they KNOW better than to use the cork OR rubber China rail gaskets and theyvuse RTV instead. Those included in the gasket kit China rail gaskets WILL fail and end up pushing out in NO time. THROW those gaskets in the GARBAGE, and use Permatex Right Stuff instead.... you will NOT have a leak if you do that, but you WILL have a leak very shortly if you DO use the gaskets.
Pretty paint is sometimes a caution flag. Maybe its part of a good job... maybe its just a paint job. In this case... motor needs a complete rebuild - surface the block, pick through the heads, whole nine yards. Probably needs guides, and recut the seats.
There are a lot of red flags.. but honestly I’ve seen 70 heads on a 68-69 block with step dowels… that is the ONLY time you use an early manifold with slotted center bolts..and there are people that believe upside down pistons make more power due to pin offset, I’m not one of those guys..10k is totally absurd.. Sorry that a fellow AMCer took advantage of you…
Whoever "rebuilt" this AMC 390 sure is hell did a VERY s***ty job. I really don't blame him for being p***ed off. He should send it back to whom he bought it from.
the pistons are on the wrong bank switch them ? but you need to dummy fit one to see if the rod in centered ! Check if those are 401 heads ? if they are 1972 or above it's a + ... I would be most concerned about the head bolts Yeah it got's dowel pins but NO . unless the cam is over 480 lift on the cam lobe I wouldn't hesitate reusing the push rods at all ? they are already tested ! Early roller rocker arms were not for street use , later ones are good to go . My friend Gerald had a new AMX and he thought nothing could take him ? He raced for 50 bucks a 66 327 SS Nova and lost 50 bucks . Gerald was thinking how with so much more CR ........ Good luck and get it magnet fluxed before any thing else
If you paid too much fine but there's enough good parts there if the block and crank are good I understand the rant but everyone knows you never trust someone who you don't knows work and wasting the aluminum covers is just a jerk move cuz you're mad you got took
Your fist indication should have been that the whole thing was painted in one shot, except the covers. When I build an engine, I refinish every part before assembly, you can literally see every gasket isn't painted over, its a fresh and clean finish with everything indepently put on with care to the fit and finish of the engine.
I do a full spray once everything is assembled to ensure there is no bare metal where a gasket mating surface isn't completely used isn't bare metal left exposed.
But when you see paint on top of the heads under the valve cover, you know zero care was given
@RAYROTHSTEIN66 Well, I did see that, and I have bought engines that have been spray bombed before. I think what the biggest issue is that they played me. I was looking for an engine to go with my Machine. Probably put too much trust in people.
@kyleh3615 to get around the unpainted surfaces, say like a timing cover or the intake to head connection.. I just loosely put the intake on with a gasket, take a pencil and mark the clean metal. Remove the part and put a piece of clear packing tape over the area and cut it along the pencil line, remove the unneeded tape and mask off the rest. Spray what you need and peel the tape as it's setting up to avoid paint pull.
1970 heads on a 1969 block
requires a special DOWEL for 7/16" bolts to 1/2" head bolt holes
COOP
...
This is an example of when you uncover one lie you know the seller is full of shit.
I can hear his anger continuing to raise throughout the video. I'm sorry man, it happens to all of us.
Too soon to say about the pistons being clocked backwards. Im not an AMC guy, but judging from the valve reliefs on the pistons, it APPEARS that the pistons can be clocked 180° without valve to piston interference. There are SOME (race)engine builders who claim piston offset(& piston slap) can be ignored for purposes of more HP. I'm not claiming that that was this builder's intention, but it is a possibility. Like you said, it will be interesting to see if the rods are oriented properly on the crank pins. That will probably indicate a lot about the expertise of the builder. I feel for you, because what I've seen so far, does not look like it's worth anything near what you paid for it. Good luck. You'll probably have to check and verify EVERY last thing on this to satisfy yourself.
@budlanctot3060 My son made me aware of that. However, the rod caps are designed to take oil into the main bearings with the rotation of the crank. If the rods were assembled in the stock configuration and simply turned 180 degrees.The forces generated by the rotation will effectively not allow the oil to enter the bearing and starve the lower end. I hope that isn't the case. But, we will know soon.
@autosoulsgarage7277 I don't much about AMC engines but I suspect they are not THAT much different than old Mopar. In Mopars there are chamfers in the bores of the rods. The chamfers are supposed to face the nearest cheek of the crank's rod journals. Also, there is a spit hole on the rod/rod cap parting line. When oriented properly, the spit hole faces the cam and spits oil onto the camshaft.
Flipping pistons is an old hot rod trick but the rod cheeks must be corect if you don't chthe rods on the pins you also have to change sides.my question when someone says a motor is rebuilt my question is usually ya but how much
Flipping the pistons, when dealing with a piston with offset pin bores, doesn't do SHIT for the engine power OR longetivity....
It's been tested over and over, and there's NOTHING to be gained by doing it. ZERO!
that's a real bad feeling if you uncrate something like this and then slowly get more and more worried then angry.
Blue paint overspray all over the valve springs... 😂
Classic performance piston flip!😅
I'd go get my money back. Where I'm from, that's maybe $500 sitting there.
HOWDY A-S-G, ...
Interesting DOG-Leg Exhaust Ports = Later model HEADS
on an allegedly 1968 / 1969 Engine that came with RECTANGULAR Exhaust Ports
&
I never subscribed to that UNDER Intake Manifold EXTRA Oil Line
...
Thanks
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
...
There's a lot of stuff to check when building a motor. Casting numbers, piston quench, rocker arm geometry, replacement of common wear parts, ect... proper piston orientation now🤦♂️. I hate that this happened to you! Now, you're going to want to want to magnafux the block and heads, check the cam, the main caps, the rod caps... I don't envy your experience with this engine. Good warning, thanks for the information in this video.
When I see crap like this done to already niche AMC motors, a little piece of me dies
Why does it have a 401 .30 over. 10.2 piston in it if it’s a 390 What’s going on ?
And what did you pay for this thing?
My last big block that I had built cost me approx. $32,000, BUT, it was built by a reputable builder, came WITH all receipts, came with all the parts manuals, literature, and contingency stickers, I received a build sheet with every spec for every clearance and setting of everything in the motor, AND the engine was dynoed (which i got to witness) and I received the dyno sheets for all 16 pulls, the oil filter was taken off the motor after the pulls and cut open right in front of me to inspect it, and then the motor was removed from the dyno, all open ports taped up, the entire thing crated, and forklifted into the back of my truck, and then a final receipt was given to me for all the work done, and presented to me (along with all the before mentioned paperwork) in a very nice logo'd company folder.
The engine is on it's 3rd season of mid 9-second quarter mile passes in a 3750lb car with zero issues....
and there's more in it if I wanted to turn it up some more.. 🤷🏻
You DO get what you pay for
If that was only true! You get what you pay for? I could only wish! Maybey you do? I hope sombody somewhere does.
I am confused. You claim to be an expert and have a video on how to ID an AMC V-8, yet you didn't see the obvious clue it wasn't a Gen 2 390. The dog leg vs rectangular exhaust ports, no disassembly required. The other obvious error is that you incorrectly said the priority oiling line is in the incorrect location and then point to the water jacket (also claim to have a video on this)🤦♂. The line is in the correct location in the passenger side lifter oil galley between cylinders 6 & 8. The purpose of this line is to take oil from the front of the engine off the line from the oil pump and inject into the passenger side lifter oil galley, which is where the mains get their oil supply. The reason is at high rpm the oil pressure loses from the front to the rear of the engine due to drops at each lifter. These are control leaks in the engine. It is also recommended to put a restrictor in the driver's side lifter oil galley to limit the oil to this side. Also, most engine builder don' t use the supplied seals for the china walls because of leaking, but rather use silicone. Since there is a deck height difference between Gen 2 and Gen 3 engines of .043" something had to be machined to make it fit. BTW, those valve covers are Chinese junk. You can google search them all day. And who pays $10k for aerosol overhauled engine?
Wow, that's a lot of words. Thanks for your comment.
@@autosoulsgarage7277 yep, a lot of correct words, not a rambling, disinformed video. Try it sometime. 😉 Until next time.
Agree with natwolf
@@autosoulsgarage7277 I would not trust this one bit.
100% Tear down measure and exam everything. Probably not even balanced.
I have under 10K In my 71 401 roller engine with special MODs on it. has the 291-C 1971 Heads which are adj, I upgrades to 7/16’s BBC studs, and went 315W Steelies RRA for the roller cam.
Anyway, what Alum intake would you recommend? I want to reuse my OEM air cleaner setup in a 78 J10.
The Torker looks a bit too tall , however have NOT seen much talk on its fitment for my rig so I’m in search mode now.
@yafois988 The Torker manifold is just what it says. Because of the higher plenum, it slightly increases the torque of the engine. That said, AMC engines are high torque by design. I believe that Edelbrock still makes it, but I haven't seen one on a 401. Edelbrock makes the Performer RPM, and that one is really popular. But, if you ask me for my favorite. Hands down, it would be the Air Gap.
Do you know anyone with 67 Rebel body parts? Need a windshield to start with.
You pay a bunch of money for a supposed hot motor it should come with reciepts
Ah, the builder ALWAYS loses them right before you purchase it....
The fact that the pushrods are used doesn't make them bad. The strenth of the pushrod i dont think should be a issue. What is more important about the pushrods is if they are the proper lenth. Most people buy new pushrods during a build is not becouse the old ones are worn out, but becouse with any changes to deck hight or milled heads or cam & lifter changes made or different rockers all will affect valve train geometry so new pushrods are required for proper lenth, not becouse of the integrity of the pushrod itself.
@@jesseduke694 I worry about the ball heads being used and shearing off.
If ANYBODY has rebuilt more than a few engines, they KNOW better than to use the cork OR rubber China rail gaskets and theyvuse RTV instead.
Those included in the gasket kit China rail gaskets WILL fail and end up pushing out in NO time.
THROW those gaskets in the GARBAGE, and use Permatex Right Stuff instead.... you will NOT have a leak if you do that, but you WILL have a leak very shortly if you DO use the gaskets.
Pretty paint is sometimes a caution flag. Maybe its part of a good job... maybe its just a paint job.
In this case... motor needs a complete rebuild - surface the block, pick through the heads, whole nine yards. Probably needs guides, and recut the seats.
There are a lot of red flags.. but honestly I’ve seen 70 heads on a 68-69 block with step dowels… that is the ONLY time you use an early manifold with slotted center bolts..and there are people that believe upside down pistons make more power due to pin offset, I’m not one of those guys..10k is totally absurd.. Sorry that a fellow AMCer took advantage of you…
Those HEADS are very desirable = High Compression Dog-Legs
if they are BIG Valves items
COOP
...
YIKES = $ 10,000.00 = YIKES = I'd SUE !!!
...
COOP
the "AMC JUNK COLLECTOR " = WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
Whoever "rebuilt" this AMC 390 sure is hell did a VERY s***ty job. I really don't blame him for being p***ed off. He should send it back to whom he bought it from.
the pistons are on the wrong bank switch them ? but you need to dummy fit one to see if the rod in centered ! Check if those are 401 heads ? if they are 1972 or above it's a + ... I would be most concerned about the head bolts Yeah it got's dowel pins but NO . unless the cam is over 480 lift on the cam lobe I wouldn't hesitate reusing the push rods at all ? they are already tested ! Early roller rocker arms were not for street use , later ones are good to go . My friend Gerald had a new AMX and he thought nothing could take him ? He raced for 50 bucks a 66 327 SS Nova and lost 50 bucks . Gerald was thinking how with so much more CR ........ Good luck and get it magnet fluxed before any thing else
If you paid too much fine but there's enough good parts there if the block and crank are good I understand the rant but everyone knows you never trust someone who you don't knows work and wasting the aluminum covers is just a jerk move cuz you're mad you got took
To be honest it was a crook that did that engine. Who in there right mind would put pistons in backward? Front means front.
😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢
I know who he bought that from