Thanks, Morton. I'm glad to find someone else attempting solutions....lol, I thought I was the only one spending money on 5 different kinds of lamps,lol. Thanks for taking the time to share this...it helped me out a lot.
You have to use an LED-dimmer. Normal dimmers (made for incandescent bulbs) doesn't work with LEDs (even dimmable LEDs). Try to bypass the dimmer built into the lamp. You even might need a dedicated LED driver instead of the one used to drive the Halogen lamp.
I think you are on the right track, normally these inline triac dimmers go up to 95-99% and causes the flicker because it's not clean ac power. No problem for incandescent bulbs.
On my lamp, same as yours, I had to by-pass and remove the dimmer switch... so mines either on, or off.... I'm still using the halogen Bulb... will try out the led version when the Halogen burns out.
@@MyPlayHouse I really like the newer LEDs but am finding, like you... they just aren't bright enough in certain applications. these fllor lamps came with 300 Watt Halogen Bulbs, what LED is bright enough to replace it.... so far, I'm only finding 100 Watt equivelant bulbs...
7:15 min! It's standard! I know so many people who have similar lamps, and all of them (incl me) had the same issue! They thought "we can make a cheap and fast solution", but instead of covering the Concrete with a thicker layer of Gummi or plastic, they juts painted a layer over it, and through a period of time it started to crumble! It sucks!
@@MyPlayHouse No problem 👍🏻 I was immediately remembered when I saw the concrete base, and it's quite a task to find something that fits in it, with enough strength and weight! The cutting and fiddling was a easier task 😂😂😂! Thank YOU for bringing interesting tests and daily life needs! I will watch your Channel more often, it was my first time. But not the last! 😊👍🏻
Hi HOODY'S MIXED MEDIA Thank You very much! Yes even if I found them all to be rather doubtful,, that is also helpful,, when shopping for these R7S :-) Thank you for watching! :-)
for the smaller lights if you can find philips led r7s lights, they seem brighter than average; I'm not quite sure about what actual type of lead's they use but definitely better than the Chinese ones I bought although more expensive
@@MyPlayHouse hehe, I think if you want to try to do that you will have to maybe diy something with one of those circular cobs:P...... I think the design of the r7s's are a bit to restrictive for the time being; the Philips I was suggesting are at best similar to the lumens of 60 to 80watt~(haven't compared side by side).....
The rolling shutter effect is a problem. It may be that the electronics is too small/enclosed to see, but if not, it will still flicker at 50Hz, so changing your camera setting from 25fps to 30fps may get rid of the rolling shutter.
Cool video. Bummer about the base breaking apart. I thought those filament-led lights (the last two you tried) would have zero flickering. I wonder if the dimmer is the culprit, or if lights can be made for certain hertz 50/60 and you have ones that don't match what your country has. just a guess. I would put an epilepsy warning up somewhere for this video. I don't have it but the flickering still got to me- i feel a little dizzy now. Kanye's video didn't bother me though.
LED Bulbs need to be dimmed with an intelligent dimmer that uses pulse width modulation rather than dimmers designed for halogen bulbs which are just resistors. That's why some say they are dimmable but don't seem to be - you need a specific LED dimmer switch.
I should add as well that they will flicker on camera because they turn on and off at 60Hz and your camera records at 60fps - a traditional bulb glows all the time so no flickering, LED bulbs turn on and off (twice) every time the AC voltage oscillates - the nice LED bulbs should in theory stay illuminated for more of the time than cheaper ones which is why some flicker more than others. Thanks for the video! :D
@@elliottsw If you'd connected a bare LED to mains via a resistor, it would flicker. Even the cheapest led bulbs usually have a small capacitor to smooth out the voltage.
@Mchacz8008 indeed but while these capacitors overcome the problem of reverse voltage when the dimmer reduces the voltage the LED does not dim, it just starts to flicker as they are either full brightness or off, and the capacitors eventually cannot keep the voltage high enough to keep it illuminated. That's why you need a pulse width modulator instead of a resistor.
I would ike to suggest using a manual camera exposure for such test and not automatic one. Than we might be able to actually see the difference in the amount of light coming out of different light sources.
Hi Mickey Rourke Thank You very much! I was thinking the same thing while editing,, specialty seeing all the lights becoming close to the same color, after the automatic white balance. :-/ Thank you for watching! :-)
These Halogen rod lamps that light up the ceiling aren't really good for LED replacements. That is why I have bought a lamp that is similar in shape, but has an E27 fittin in the top. There, I screw in an 18.5W Phillips LED or a 21.5W Osram (Ledvance) LED. They have the light output of a 130W or 150W incandescent bulb, and that's plenty of light! I spread of 4 of these similar things throughout my large room (which is about 25 m² I think), and now I can make it really bright.
@@MyPlayHouse I mean this one: www.amazon.de/dp/B01HD54OP6/ or this one: www.amazon.de/dp/B073JG8V4S/ in combination with something like this: www.amazon.de/dp/B002FOG7V0/ - they are really bright. Maybe even use 2 in different corners of the room instead of only one?
The flicker is the 50 hertz of the grid, because there is no DC convertion in between. The faster flicker could be 100 hertz because of bad electronics.
chinese ebay sellers use the chinese watts system, its like 1/3 of what the real world uses, this conversion actor also applies to pure sine wave inverters.....
I've got a similar light and have 3 0r 4 brand new 500 w halogen bulbs dimmable. i just love the way it spreads the light across the ceiling. But man does it suck the watts You know like that old 70s Buick🤣Ive been thinking about going the LED route for a while but like you said its just not the same light😒
Leds really don't cope well with a.c power, they store no energy to smooth over there on/off switch over events, mad flicker :-( There non linear response to a rising voltage doesnt help eather. A propper led a.c to d.c driver may be the only way. Never mind mort, it was a good test :-D
@@MyPlayHouse I noticed that when I bought some LED MR16 bulbs to replace the 50W halogen bulbs we had, there were 10 of them in total. On 3 out of 4 circuits they started flickering immediately after pressing the switch but the three bulbs that were on the 4th circuit appeared to turn on normally, although some appeared brighter than others. After about 5 minutes they started flickering as well. The reason for this was that the existing transformers outputted 12VAC instead of the required 12VDC. I replaced the transformers with LED ones and that solved the problem - no flickering and the lights were equal brightness Edit: I think the difference in brightness was due to small differences in the output voltage of the transformers but if someone could explain why the LEDs initially operated normally on AC on one of the circuits I'd really appreciate it.
I had some of these in my lab turned on 24/7, the thing with these chinese leds they have really poor colour rendering index (CRI) and at least from my own experience they die really quickly i never bothered to take one apart but likely bad capacitors and maybe one led going bad and taking down an entire row since they're in series. I would say mine would last anywhere from 1-3 months 24/7 nowhere near the 30-50k hours LEDs are usually rated for which means you also have to add the extra cost of replacing them to the mix, they looked very similar to yours (the R7S) hopefully you'll have better luck than me.
Well I am not able to work with the blinking of the new ones. It does not help that the LED’s are good for 30-50k hours,, if the electronic is piss poor and dies after 200 hours :-/
@@MyPlayHouse Mine had some visible flicker without dimmer with my own eyes as well and on camera, it's usually due to how they're designed, cheaper ones use capacitors to drop the voltage and puts a lot of stress on caps plus they're already low quality and running at really high temperatures, even with really good low-esr caps i don't think it's possible to design one of these that doesn't fail quickly with a reasonable light output as you would expect from a 300W-500W halogen which also serves as a space heater in the winter, and has perfect CRI. But make sure you're shooting at 50fps not 60/30fps since the 50hz frequency will affect them, also in some cases helps running them off straight DC (when possible/you have access to that voltage etc, cheap ones with capacitive drop can't do that) specially camera lighting or any lighting that's likely to be on camera at fps that doesn't match mains frequency. I also personally don't like warm white, most people do but i prefer daylight (5000-6000k) which is a good reason to replace any halogens.
Typical, you spend a small fortune on LEDs for it and it breaks. The reason you shouldn't touch the halogen bulbs is because it gets extremely hot and the oils from your fingers will make it potentially crack the glass. If you scrap the lamp and have no need for the bulbs, it seems like a good donation for Bigclivedotcom for him to play with. You could build a round piece of board covered in LED tape that fits in the bowl of the lamp.
I am sure Bigclivedotcon has taken these apart ;-) I’d really like to get an replacement for that 300watt bulb, some LED that gives out the same amount of light. Haven’t found it yet.
I was hoping for an recommendation for a good LED r7s update to a similar lamp from the estate of the previous owner of my house. I suppose that it'll work better to pay a bit more going to a lamp shop here in Denmark.
Hi Johnnie Hougaard Nielsen Well I thought that at least one of the two new ones would be great,, they was not,, still crap. So I only hope that you leave the video with a lot of input on what not to do. Thank you for watching! :-)
Hi Ein Felder Thank You very much! But only the lamp is gone, and I hope to take the bulb that sayed puf, apart to see what went wrong :-) Thank you for watching! :-)
Soooooo, what?? I didn't have time to watch 17 hours of this video. Was there some sort of conclusion? All I needed to know is *which bulb worked best, if any of them* ?
Thanks, Morton. I'm glad to find someone else attempting solutions....lol, I thought I was the only one spending money on 5 different kinds of lamps,lol. Thanks for taking the time to share this...it helped me out a lot.
Hi Jim O
Thank You very much! I enjoy testing these cheap LED lights,, to see if there is a hidden gemstones :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
You have to use an LED-dimmer. Normal dimmers (made for incandescent bulbs) doesn't work with LEDs (even dimmable LEDs). Try to bypass the dimmer built into the lamp. You even might need a dedicated LED driver instead of the one used to drive the Halogen lamp.
I think you are on the right track, normally these inline triac dimmers go up to 95-99% and causes the flicker because it's not clean ac power. No problem for incandescent bulbs.
i was gonna say the same thing
Well,, I was looking for a replacement, and I did not want to change a whole lot,, it just needed to work.
On my lamp, same as yours, I had to by-pass and remove the dimmer switch... so mines either on, or off.... I'm still using the halogen Bulb... will try out the led version when the Halogen burns out.
Hi John Stancliff
Thank You very much! Yes LED´s are harder to dimm,, than the good old ones, glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
@@MyPlayHouse I really like the newer LEDs but am finding, like you... they just aren't bright enough in certain applications. these fllor lamps came with 300 Watt Halogen Bulbs, what LED is bright enough to replace it.... so far, I'm only finding 100 Watt equivelant bulbs...
Nicely done. I tried a couple of different LED bulbs, they were all crud. I wired in a recessed led dimmable panel into 3 different lamps.
Thank You,, I have not really come across anything really good yet :-/
7:15 min! It's standard! I know so many people who have similar lamps, and all of them (incl me) had the same issue!
They thought "we can make a cheap and fast solution", but instead of covering the Concrete with a thicker layer of Gummi or plastic, they juts painted a layer over it, and through a period of time it started to crumble!
It sucks!
Hi Che Guevara
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
@@MyPlayHouse No problem 👍🏻
I was immediately remembered when I saw the concrete base, and it's quite a task to find something that fits in it, with enough strength and weight!
The cutting and fiddling was a easier task 😂😂😂!
Thank YOU for bringing interesting tests and daily life needs!
I will watch your Channel more often, it was my first time.
But not the last!
😊👍🏻
Thankyou so much for your video. You just saved me a bunch of cash.
Good research and great vid.
Hi HOODY'S MIXED MEDIA
Thank You very much! Yes even if I found them all to be rather doubtful,, that is also helpful,, when shopping for these R7S :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
Very genuine review loved watching it
Hi Midhun
Thank You very much! to bad non of them was really good :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
'
how about the dimmer control...
can fit work or not
I did not have much luck,, it wa all pretty bad.
Thank you Sir👍🏾
You are very welcome
for the smaller lights if you can find philips led r7s lights, they seem brighter than average; I'm not quite sure about what actual type of lead's they use but definitely better than the Chinese ones I bought although more expensive
I was really hoping to find something that would replaces that 300watt in light output,, and not to expensive;-)
@@MyPlayHouse hehe, I think if you want to try to do that you will have to maybe diy something with one of those circular cobs:P...... I think the design of the r7s's are a bit to restrictive for the time being; the Philips I was suggesting are at best similar to the lumens of 60 to 80watt~(haven't compared side by side).....
The rolling shutter effect is a problem. It may be that the electronics is too small/enclosed to see, but if not, it will still flicker at 50Hz, so changing your camera setting from 25fps to 30fps may get rid of the rolling shutter.
Hi Seegal Galguntijak
Thank You very much! They was blinking so much that it was impossible to work with.
Thank you for watching! :-)
Cool video. Bummer about the base breaking apart. I thought those filament-led lights (the last two you tried) would have zero flickering. I wonder if the dimmer is the culprit, or if lights can be made for certain hertz 50/60 and you have ones that don't match what your country has. just a guess.
I would put an epilepsy warning up somewhere for this video. I don't have it but the flickering still got to me- i feel a little dizzy now. Kanye's video didn't bother me though.
Sometimes the flickering was worst on the camera, and sometimes you did not nearly get half of it :-/
LED Bulbs need to be dimmed with an intelligent dimmer that uses pulse width modulation rather than dimmers designed for halogen bulbs which are just resistors. That's why some say they are dimmable but don't seem to be - you need a specific LED dimmer switch.
I should add as well that they will flicker on camera because they turn on and off at 60Hz and your camera records at 60fps - a traditional bulb glows all the time so no flickering, LED bulbs turn on and off (twice) every time the AC voltage oscillates - the nice LED bulbs should in theory stay illuminated for more of the time than cheaper ones which is why some flicker more than others. Thanks for the video! :D
Hi Sam Elliott
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
Dimmers for hallogen bulbs are not resistors, but triacks. A resistor able to dissipate 60w of power would be huge, and hot 😅
@@elliottsw If you'd connected a bare LED to mains via a resistor, it would flicker. Even the cheapest led bulbs usually have a small capacitor to smooth out the voltage.
@Mchacz8008 indeed but while these capacitors overcome the problem of reverse voltage when the dimmer reduces the voltage the LED does not dim, it just starts to flicker as they are either full brightness or off, and the capacitors eventually cannot keep the voltage high enough to keep it illuminated. That's why you need a pulse width modulator instead of a resistor.
Hey could someone tell me how to replace the pole lamp dimmer switch in this lamp please.
a lamp like mine ?
@@MyPlayHouse Yes the one in the video it's a tochiere light floor lamp. Thank you for getting back to me.
I would ike to suggest using a manual camera exposure for such test and not automatic one. Than we might be able to actually see the difference in the amount of light coming out of different light sources.
Hi Mickey Rourke
Thank You very much! I was thinking the same thing while editing,, specialty seeing all the lights becoming close to the same color, after the automatic white balance. :-/
Thank you for watching! :-)
Helpful,ty!
Hi Николай Желев
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
These Halogen rod lamps that light up the ceiling aren't really good for LED replacements. That is why I have bought a lamp that is similar in shape, but has an E27 fittin in the top. There, I screw in an 18.5W Phillips LED or a 21.5W Osram (Ledvance) LED. They have the light output of a 130W or 150W incandescent bulb, and that's plenty of light! I spread of 4 of these similar things throughout my large room (which is about 25 m² I think), and now I can make it really bright.
All the LED bulbs I mentioned above are available for 10€ per piece in Germany, so maybe as well for you?
I have been looking for years :-/ and still waiting...
@@MyPlayHouse I mean this one: www.amazon.de/dp/B01HD54OP6/ or this one: www.amazon.de/dp/B073JG8V4S/ in combination with something like this: www.amazon.de/dp/B002FOG7V0/ - they are really bright. Maybe even use 2 in different corners of the room instead of only one?
The flicker is the 50 hertz of the grid, because there is no DC convertion in between. The faster flicker could be 100 hertz because of bad electronics.
It seams more random than just 50Hz and did not flicker until the lamb had heated up.
chinese ebay sellers use the chinese watts system, its like 1/3 of what the real world uses, this conversion actor also applies to pure sine wave inverters.....
There are some doubtful watt among them. :-)
I've got a similar light and have 3 0r 4 brand new 500 w halogen bulbs dimmable. i just love the way it spreads the light across the ceiling. But man does it suck the watts You know like that old 70s Buick🤣Ive been thinking about going the LED route for a while but like you said its just not the same light😒
Hi John Mitchell
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
Can we power with DC ?? if yes how
They might work with 230 volt DC,, but not a great way to do it,, look for light for cars or mobile homes.
Leds really don't cope well with a.c power, they store no energy to smooth over there on/off switch over events, mad flicker :-(
There non linear response to a rising voltage doesnt help eather.
A propper led a.c to d.c driver may be the only way.
Never mind mort, it was a good test :-D
The LEDs didn’t flicker right away they only started flickering when they got warm.
@@MyPlayHouse I noticed that when I bought some LED MR16 bulbs to replace the 50W halogen bulbs we had, there were 10 of them in total. On 3 out of 4 circuits they started flickering immediately after pressing the switch but the three bulbs that were on the 4th circuit appeared to turn on normally, although some appeared brighter than others. After about 5 minutes they started flickering as well. The reason for this was that the existing transformers outputted 12VAC instead of the required 12VDC. I replaced the transformers with LED ones and that solved the problem - no flickering and the lights were equal brightness
Edit: I think the difference in brightness was due to small differences in the output voltage of the transformers but if someone could explain why the LEDs initially operated normally on AC on one of the circuits I'd really appreciate it.
I had some of these in my lab turned on 24/7, the thing with these chinese leds they have really poor colour rendering index (CRI) and at least from my own experience they die really quickly i never bothered to take one apart but likely bad capacitors and maybe one led going bad and taking down an entire row since they're in series. I would say mine would last anywhere from 1-3 months 24/7 nowhere near the 30-50k hours LEDs are usually rated for which means you also have to add the extra cost of replacing them to the mix, they looked very similar to yours (the R7S) hopefully you'll have better luck than me.
Well I am not able to work with the blinking of the new ones. It does not help that the LED’s are good for 30-50k hours,, if the electronic is piss poor and dies after 200 hours :-/
@@MyPlayHouse Mine had some visible flicker without dimmer with my own eyes as well and on camera, it's usually due to how they're designed, cheaper ones use capacitors to drop the voltage and puts a lot of stress on caps plus they're already low quality and running at really high temperatures, even with really good low-esr caps i don't think it's possible to design one of these that doesn't fail quickly with a reasonable light output as you would expect from a 300W-500W halogen which also serves as a space heater in the winter, and has perfect CRI. But make sure you're shooting at 50fps not 60/30fps since the 50hz frequency will affect them, also in some cases helps running them off straight DC (when possible/you have access to that voltage etc, cheap ones with capacitive drop can't do that) specially camera lighting or any lighting that's likely to be on camera at fps that doesn't match mains frequency. I also personally don't like warm white, most people do but i prefer daylight (5000-6000k) which is a good reason to replace any halogens.
The cob ones with lower power last longer. We have one chandelier with 24 1,4w cob e14 candles since 2007 for 79€ total back then. 0 replacements
I have something similar to that in my ones my old ones used 150watts they are $30 plus AUD in Australia for the led ones.🤯
But did your led work as it should? Or is it the same doubtful stuff, that I am showing here?
No it work fine we love it
@@raphaelelvish2430 eBay aliexpress amazon has them cheap
Repair it :p Or just rest a couple of SLA batteries on top of the base ;)
Wonder why I didn’t think of that :-)
Typical, you spend a small fortune on LEDs for it and it breaks.
The reason you shouldn't touch the halogen bulbs is because it gets extremely hot and the oils from your fingers will make it potentially crack the glass.
If you scrap the lamp and have no need for the bulbs, it seems like a good donation for Bigclivedotcom for him to play with.
You could build a round piece of board covered in LED tape that fits in the bowl of the lamp.
I am sure Bigclivedotcon has taken these apart ;-)
I’d really like to get an replacement for that 300watt bulb, some LED that gives out the same amount of light. Haven’t found it yet.
It is dimmable, once.....
Hi Mark Potter
Yes and with a nice "puff" sound, that tells you that it made it to the off position :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
I was hoping for an recommendation for a good LED r7s update to a similar lamp from the estate of the previous owner of my house. I suppose that it'll work better to pay a bit more going to a lamp shop here in Denmark.
Hi Johnnie Hougaard Nielsen
Well I thought that at least one of the two new ones would be great,, they was not,, still crap. So I only hope that you leave the video with a lot of input on what not to do.
Thank you for watching! :-)
Morten turned towards the dark side. Probably for the cookies. o.0
No I am trying to brighten up the Darkside so everyone can see the delicious cookies. :-)
Just wrap your room in Christmas lights.
Hi Runehorn
Thank You very much! ahh maybe LED lights,, not christmas..
Thank you for watching! :-)
Now buy a new lamp with a big bulb :D. 2x1 deal
If I can just find a 300watt replacement for this,, LED though ;-)
✅🥇✅
Hi SKY NET CYBER SYSTEM 2
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
Some of your led retrofits have very annoying flicker.
Yes the do,, and the camcorder, amplifies it even more.
Concrete that's not very environment friendly they should have just filled a plastic base with sand.
Well I think sand is lighter,, so a bit more would be needed. and that might not look as "good".
Been trying these bulbs myself. They flicker terribly - utterly useless.
I am still to find a high watt good one :-/ Do let ne know if you find something good..
You need some decent screwdrivers !!!
Often I am just to lazy to go get them :-)
Turn the light off! Pleeeeease!
Hi esmannr
Thank You very much! but that makes really bad video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
dimmable lights need to be dimmed. way too long video - edit to 5 minutes.
Sorry, that is not the kind of videos i do.
The great thing about this video is you can now throw out that hideous lamp and all those junk chinese bulbs :)
Hi Ein Felder
Thank You very much! But only the lamp is gone, and I hope to take the bulb that sayed puf, apart to see what went wrong :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
Soooooo, what?? I didn't have time to watch 17 hours of this video. Was there some sort of conclusion? All I needed to know is *which bulb worked best, if any of them* ?
Non was very good.
That chinese crap is nothing more than waste. Shouldn't be purchased; it's just money burned down in the trash.
Well there is a chance,,, :-) sometimes you find something that is okay.