It is always interesting to see how people lay out their touring kit. Like you, I owned a seat bag and just decided to incorporate it into my planning. It turns out it makes a fantastic location to store a potentially wet tent segregated from everything else. The poles go up front on the outside of my handlebar bag. One of my two small front panniers (same type as yours) is used for my cook kit. The other is for my toiletries so I have one bag to unclip and take to a campground shower. One of the rear panniers holds clothing (and usually a few other things). The other holds some food, computer (if I bring it), cables, and a lot of miscellaneous stuff (I have a fairly detailed checklist). I actually try to leave the rear panniers half empty so that if I've incorporated train travel there is room to shove the other bags inside, hook them up like a pair of horse panniers, and throw them over my should to better move about the train. I use a frame bag that honestly turns into a bit of junk drawer but ideally holds my spare belt, tools, wallet and anything else I deem necessary to need immediately. I tend to devote the top tube bag to battery storage so I can keep my cycle computer, phone and camera on trickle charge the entire ride. If I have a front bag on, it generally become a burse (bike purse) so that I can quickly detach it at a restaurant/store and bring my valuables with me.
If only my bike would fall completely apart so I could have a reason to buy a new one 😉. They do sell the fork separately and I’m thinking of springing for one. Thanks for the detail as I didn’t know many were on each fork. Cheers!
I'm glad you called it a mediocre bike with a Pinion gearbox. I was looking at this, but didn't like the black paint (can't see in the daytime) and it's being made in China. Will save up and get a Tout Terrain instead. A real touring bike.
Also look at Co-motion cycles as they have a Pinion Drive… actually a Pinion P19 vs a C12 (more gears). These were priced well beyond my budget, however, so went with the more reasonably priced Priority. I have been very happy with it at almost the 3 year mark. I’m unclear how the black color is hard to see during the daytime and the “always on” dynamo lights enhance visibility for me. Also, there are many reflective decals and reflectors that really pop during night riding. Thanks for watching and best of luck looking for your next bike.
Frame is welded in Taiwan (along with just about every other bike on the planet), pinion gearbox in manufactured in Germany, assembly and paint are done in USA (Pennsylvania).
The Pinion gearbox will probably last much longer than the aluminum frame. What can you do with it when the aluminum frame reaches the end of its life?
Since the wheels use QR skewers I can use my burley flat bed cargo trailer to haul my gear when I tour...currently ride a recumbent trike but looking to get my new bike this fall.
I’ve not yet seen a Priority 600 towing a burley. That would be interesting. I would touch base with an engineer at Priority to see it there would be any issues. The rear axle area is unique as it has a “frame break” that allows you to open up the frame and slip the gates cable on and off.
Denham handlebars are worth looking into. Incidentally, Alee Denham, a Koga ambassador, says that being the Priority is aluminum, it wouldn't hold up to touring.
Thanks I will look into that. As for aluminum frames and touring, for me it was a financial decision. And I do light touring primarily in the US and Canada so it’s not a concern for me. As for a multi-month world tour I would be more concerned with the pinion drive and belt drive. Even though it is proving reliable, an issue of any kind would be “game over.”
I’ve read Alee’s blogs and, based on his experience, I put a lot of stock in his touring tips. I did a quick search and did not find a review of the Priority aluminum bikes for touring. But I did run across a short piece on aluminum vs. steel and it was the well known issues… aluminum is difficult to properly repair. He ended with this - “In summary, pick a touring bike for its engineering and build quality, not its frame material.”
Sunce Alex Denham is a "Koga Ambassador", maybe someone should inform him that their flagship model, the WorldTraveller, has an aluminum frame and fork. Just kidding, I'm sure he is aware, and also sure that he never made any statement about aluminium "not holding up".
I too am trying to decide what to do about the handlebar on my 600. I run a Carradice-style saddlebag, mine is the Jack Supply Co Slugger, on my handlebars so i can have access to lots of things up front. Any sort of alt bar makes this an issue since you can't lift the top flap with an alt bar in the way. I've done a 3 hour ride on the regular bars of the 600 with less hand/wrist pain than riding on a drop bar, but that could be due to my position on the drop bar bike and lack of core strength. I really like the grips Priority went with - like cups for your hands, rather than a rounded bar that digs into the meat of the hand.
Knowing what you know now, would you prefer the priority 600x with more mounting points and presumably better quality overall? Of course it is $1,000.00 USD more but you have gone to some effort and expense to overcome the standard 600's shortcomings for bike packing.
If I was “bike packing” that would be my choice for sure but, as I am truly an old man on a bike, my bike touring looks for quiet gravel roads, rail trails, and paved roads with little traffic so the Priority 600 is MY perfect solution and I would not change a thing. I was so pleased with it when I rode Vermont and the Adirondacks of NY.
@@cc103acs The new 2023 Priority 600 fork has 4 mounting points on each side of the fork; at top of the fork the mounts are about 2 1/2 inches apart, and at bottom of the fork the 2 mounts are about 3 1/2 inches apart. Between the 2nd and 3rd mounts is about 5 inches. The top tube also has 3 mounts on the top of the tube with the 3rd being 8 inches from the stem and then of course for water bottles; 2 on the seat tube and 2 on the down tube.
I have an old Topeak Disc mount rack. It has a slide on and lock system for Topeak bags (day trips) and takes touring panniers as well. The rack is available at Amazon and is now the Topeak II Disk mount rack - very satisfied. I have also seen them at REI as of last year.
I was worried I wouldn’t like this bike to load up because of a shorter chain stay and an aluminum frame (I really prefer steel) but I’m now considering this bike as a commuter and tourer
Good question! Yes I rode full size panniers last year. Sadly I cannot send photos in response to RUclips comments. So send me a means for transferring photos (e-mail) and I will send a couple pictures of the set up. The issue is that the Priority 600 only has one connection point on the each down tube on the front forks so you need to choose your rack and then seek out a clamp-on connection point. I used a Tubus rack (hope that is spelled right) and they sell connectors separately. As I did not like that much weight in the front, I have changed to Ortlieb “Fork Packs” and they work well but only hold 5.8 Litres in each bag. I find that I have much better steering control with the lighter weight on the front but the larger panniers and rack were very doable. That would be my choice even with another brand of bike.
Tubeless ready is the rim design and every bike I have had needs to be taped or with trek and added sealed strip. The dyno has the same output as the son dyno hubs and is actually a Japanese made Panasonic. It may be a tad less efficient as the son but works well as I commute with this bike and leave at 445 am in the morning and the 500 lumens work well. With turning off the light and using a pass through battery charging works. The Jones Hbar aluminum with 2.5” riser is deffently a nice addition. I wish surly would go aluminum. That bar is unnecessarily heavy. Just my thoughts.
Thanks for the input. Minor point on the “tubeless ready” but some assume you change the stem out and add sealant and you are good to go. Retaping is the point and is certainly not a big deal. As for the dynamo, I did not see huge gear recharging benefits last year when I toured in Maine. Now I just hook up my ANKER and change away. I never even thought of turning off the lights… thanks! That said, the lights are good for safety during the day for sure and if the sun starts setting on me I supplement them with Cygolights - 800 lumen up front with a bright blanky aft.
Yes! I am holding back on the steel Moloko bar due to its weight. I keep hoping it (or a similar design) gets put out there in aluminum. The Jones bar looks nice as well but my current handlebar bag would dangle way out over the front.
Yah know, there is a button on the back of the light but I never turn the light off. For all of the years I have been cycling, I always like to have “blinkies” on the front and rear… even during the day…. Touring bike, commuting, or recreational road bike - lights all around. That said, after reading the above comment, I may just turn the light off and assess the impact on charging.
@@cc103acs thanks for your reply. I was only thinking of when finished riding and not wanting lights to remain on in a home for instance. Couple more questions if I may,, Is there also a switch for the rear light that you know of? By ‘turning off’ the lights does it conserve energy for other use such as charging? Thanks
Hi and thanks for the review. can you please let me know if you went tubeless with your bike or running your tires with tubes and what are your thoughts on going tubeless? thanks again!
I ran tubes for 2 years and then went tubeless. I am leery about tubeless as I have little experience with dealing with a flat that will not seal… putting in a tube for example. I plan on cycling in Canada, far from my car… and home so feel I am taking a chance. That said, I took the Priority 600 out on what I thought was a gravel road and it was far worse that that… stones, mud puddles, sand, and gravel. At some point I noted my tire was soft but was able to make it back to my car on what air was left. So rather than get stuck with a tire that required fixing in the middle of nowhere, it got me home.
@@cc103acs many thanks for your response. you are a positive source of inspiration , best of luck with your big planned adventures and looking forward to your videos shake-outs!
@@cc103acs i also suggest that you consider bringing one of those tire Inflator & Sealant cans such as GUP Industries Kwiki Inflator & Sealant with you just in case. i have not used it yet on my bicycle but this technology works great as emergency solution in a car tire, and know some bikepackers that take it with them as 2-in-1 solution for CO2 inflator&sealent for emergency tubeless repair in the middle of nowhere.
I will look into it… thanks. I have CO2 for sure and a punch and plug-it kit. I am bringing sealant for sure as it is required when it spews out of a hold but seals… need to replenish. A Kwiki Inflator will be looked into as my tiny pump gets the job done but it is long and laborious. The thing that bothers me is that these things are not easily practiced. I have changed a tube on tour but have never practiced with tubeless repair.
I am using FOOKER Non-Slip Bike Pedals with a pair of real sticky Five Ten Freerider Primeblue Bike Shoes. I gave up on clipless as it was impossible for me to fit my wide sized feet into reasonably priced mountain bike shoes with SPD clips.
It is always interesting to see how people lay out their touring kit. Like you, I owned a seat bag and just decided to incorporate it into my planning. It turns out it makes a fantastic location to store a potentially wet tent segregated from everything else. The poles go up front on the outside of my handlebar bag. One of my two small front panniers (same type as yours) is used for my cook kit. The other is for my toiletries so I have one bag to unclip and take to a campground shower. One of the rear panniers holds clothing (and usually a few other things). The other holds some food, computer (if I bring it), cables, and a lot of miscellaneous stuff (I have a fairly detailed checklist). I actually try to leave the rear panniers half empty so that if I've incorporated train travel there is room to shove the other bags inside, hook them up like a pair of horse panniers, and throw them over my should to better move about the train. I use a frame bag that honestly turns into a bit of junk drawer but ideally holds my spare belt, tools, wallet and anything else I deem necessary to need immediately. I tend to devote the top tube bag to battery storage so I can keep my cycle computer, phone and camera on trickle charge the entire ride. If I have a front bag on, it generally become a burse (bike purse) so that I can quickly detach it at a restaurant/store and bring my valuables with me.
My Priority 600, purchased in December 2023, has four braze-ons on each side of the fork which should accommodate any standard front rack.
If only my bike would fall completely apart so I could have a reason to buy a new one 😉. They do sell the fork separately and I’m thinking of springing for one. Thanks for the detail as I didn’t know many were on each fork. Cheers!
As another senior cyclist (commuter) this is my third winter of Priority cycling. A great bike!
The newer Priority 600 has 3 attachments on both sides of the front forks even though the photo does not show it on their site
I'm glad you called it a mediocre bike with a Pinion gearbox. I was looking at this, but didn't like the black paint (can't see in the daytime) and it's being made in China. Will save up and get a Tout Terrain instead. A real touring bike.
Also look at Co-motion cycles as they have a Pinion Drive… actually a Pinion P19 vs a C12 (more gears). These were priced well beyond my budget, however, so went with the more reasonably priced Priority. I have been very happy with it at almost the 3 year mark. I’m unclear how the black color is hard to see during the daytime and the “always on” dynamo lights enhance visibility for me. Also, there are many reflective decals and reflectors that really pop during night riding. Thanks for watching and best of luck looking for your next bike.
Frame is welded in Taiwan (along with just about every other bike on the planet), pinion gearbox in manufactured in Germany, assembly and paint are done in USA (Pennsylvania).
You're not getting a Tout Terrain. You got a monthly bus pass.
The Pinion gearbox will probably last much longer than the aluminum frame. What can you do with it when the aluminum frame reaches the end of its life?
Amazing bicycle end Amazing solution for panier 💛👋🏻ciao da Milano Italy
Thanks for watching.
Since the wheels use QR skewers I can use my burley flat bed cargo trailer to haul my gear when I tour...currently ride a recumbent trike but looking to get my new bike this fall.
I’ve not yet seen a Priority 600 towing a burley. That would be interesting. I would touch base with an engineer at Priority to see it there would be any issues. The rear axle area is unique as it has a “frame break” that allows you to open up the frame and slip the gates cable on and off.
Denham handlebars are worth looking into. Incidentally, Alee Denham, a Koga ambassador, says that being the Priority is aluminum, it wouldn't hold up to touring.
Thanks I will look into that. As for aluminum frames and touring, for me it was a financial decision. And I do light touring primarily in the US and Canada so it’s not a concern for me. As for a multi-month world tour I would be more concerned with the pinion drive and belt drive. Even though it is proving reliable, an issue of any kind would be “game over.”
I’ve read Alee’s blogs and, based on his experience, I put a lot of stock in his touring tips. I did a quick search and did not find a review of the Priority aluminum bikes for touring. But I did run across a short piece on aluminum vs. steel and it was the well known issues… aluminum is difficult to properly repair. He ended with this - “In summary, pick a touring bike for its engineering and build quality, not its frame material.”
Sunce Alex Denham is a "Koga Ambassador", maybe someone should inform him that their flagship model, the WorldTraveller, has an aluminum frame and fork. Just kidding, I'm sure he is aware, and also sure that he never made any statement about aluminium "not holding up".
I too am trying to decide what to do about the handlebar on my 600. I run a Carradice-style saddlebag, mine is the Jack Supply Co Slugger, on my handlebars so i can have access to lots of things up front. Any sort of alt bar makes this an issue since you can't lift the top flap with an alt bar in the way.
I've done a 3 hour ride on the regular bars of the 600 with less hand/wrist pain than riding on a drop bar, but that could be due to my position on the drop bar bike and lack of core strength.
I really like the grips Priority went with - like cups for your hands, rather than a rounded bar that digs into the meat of the hand.
The bag issue is killing me as well. I believe the Jones bar is now my preference but see no way to use it and the huge Ortlieb bag.
Knowing what you know now, would you prefer the priority 600x with more mounting points and presumably better quality overall? Of course it is $1,000.00 USD more but you have gone to some effort and expense to overcome the standard 600's shortcomings for bike packing.
If I was “bike packing” that would be my choice for sure but, as I am truly an old man on a bike, my bike touring looks for quiet gravel roads, rail trails, and paved roads with little traffic so the Priority 600 is MY perfect solution and I would not change a thing. I was so pleased with it when I rode Vermont and the Adirondacks of NY.
The new 600 has more mounting points.
Glad to hear that… I wrote Priority and made a case for more mounting points. Where are the new ones located?
@@cc103acs The new 2023 Priority 600 fork has 4 mounting points on each side of the fork; at top of the fork the mounts are about 2 1/2 inches apart, and at bottom of the fork the 2 mounts are about 3 1/2 inches apart. Between the 2nd and 3rd mounts is about 5 inches. The top tube also has 3 mounts on the top of the tube with the 3rd being 8 inches from the stem and then of course for water bottles; 2 on the seat tube and 2 on the down tube.
What brand/model rear rack are you using?
I have an old Topeak Disc mount rack. It has a slide on and lock system for Topeak bags (day trips) and takes touring panniers as well. The rack is available at Amazon and is now the Topeak II Disk mount rack - very satisfied. I have also seen them at REI as of last year.
I was worried I wouldn’t like this bike to load up because of a shorter chain stay and an aluminum frame (I really prefer steel) but I’m now considering this bike as a commuter and tourer
The shorter chain stay was what caused me to ditch the beefier kickstand. It interfered with my pedal stroke. Give it a shot.
Can you use full size panniers on the front? And if not, why? Thanks!
Good question! Yes I rode full size panniers last year. Sadly I cannot send photos in response to RUclips comments. So send me a means for transferring photos (e-mail) and I will send a couple pictures of the set up. The issue is that the Priority 600 only has one connection point on the each down tube on the front forks so you need to choose your rack and then seek out a clamp-on connection point. I used a Tubus rack (hope that is spelled right) and they sell connectors separately. As I did not like that much weight in the front, I have changed to Ortlieb “Fork Packs” and they work well but only hold 5.8 Litres in each bag. I find that I have much better steering control with the lighter weight on the front but the larger panniers and rack were very doable. That would be my choice even with another brand of bike.
@@cc103acs Thank you very much for your reply.
Tubeless ready is the rim design and every bike I have had needs to be taped or with trek and added sealed strip. The dyno has the same output as the son dyno hubs and is actually a Japanese made Panasonic. It may be a tad less efficient as the son but works well as I commute with this bike and leave at 445 am in the morning and the 500 lumens work well. With turning off the light and using a pass through battery charging works. The Jones Hbar aluminum with 2.5” riser is deffently a nice addition. I wish surly would go aluminum. That bar is unnecessarily heavy. Just my thoughts.
Thanks for the input. Minor point on the “tubeless ready” but some assume you change the stem out and add sealant and you are good to go. Retaping is the point and is certainly not a big deal. As for the dynamo, I did not see huge gear recharging benefits last year when I toured in Maine. Now I just hook up my ANKER and change away. I never even thought of turning off the lights… thanks! That said, the lights are good for safety during the day for sure and if the sun starts setting on me I supplement them with Cygolights - 800 lumen up front with a bright blanky aft.
Yes! I am holding back on the steel Moloko bar due to its weight. I keep hoping it (or a similar design) gets put out there in aluminum. The Jones bar looks nice as well but my current handlebar bag would dangle way out over the front.
How do you ‘turn the lights off’ short of unplugging from the dyno?
Yah know, there is a button on the back of the light but I never turn the light off. For all of the years I have been cycling, I always like to have “blinkies” on the front and rear… even during the day…. Touring bike, commuting, or recreational road bike - lights all around. That said, after reading the above comment, I may just turn the light off and assess the impact on charging.
@@cc103acs thanks for your reply. I was only thinking of when finished riding and not wanting lights to remain on in a home for instance. Couple more questions if I may,, Is there also a switch for the rear light that you know of? By ‘turning off’ the lights does it conserve energy for other use such as charging? Thanks
Hi and thanks for the review. can you please let me know if you went tubeless with your bike or running your tires with tubes and what are your thoughts on going tubeless? thanks again!
I ran tubes for 2 years and then went tubeless. I am leery about tubeless as I have little experience with dealing with a flat that will not seal… putting in a tube for example. I plan on cycling in Canada, far from my car… and home so feel I am taking a chance. That said, I took the Priority 600 out on what I thought was a gravel road and it was far worse that that… stones, mud puddles, sand, and gravel. At some point I noted my tire was soft but was able to make it back to my car on what air was left. So rather than get stuck with a tire that required fixing in the middle of nowhere, it got me home.
@@cc103acs many thanks for your response. you are a positive source of inspiration , best of luck with your big planned adventures and looking forward to your videos shake-outs!
@@cc103acs i also suggest that you consider bringing one of those tire Inflator & Sealant cans such as GUP Industries Kwiki Inflator & Sealant with you just in case. i have not used it yet on my bicycle but this technology works great as emergency solution in a car tire, and know some bikepackers that take it with them as 2-in-1 solution for CO2 inflator&sealent for emergency tubeless repair in the middle of nowhere.
I will look into it… thanks. I have CO2 for sure and a punch and plug-it kit. I am bringing sealant for sure as it is required when it spews out of a hold but seals… need to replenish. A Kwiki Inflator will be looked into as my tiny pump gets the job done but it is long and laborious. The thing that bothers me is that these things are not easily practiced. I have changed a tube on tour but have never practiced with tubeless repair.
What pedals are you using?
I am using FOOKER Non-Slip Bike Pedals with a pair of real sticky Five Ten Freerider Primeblue Bike Shoes. I gave up on clipless as it was impossible for me to fit my wide sized feet into reasonably priced mountain bike shoes with SPD clips.