I think there's should've been more stress put on alternative for the equipment you used. 300$ is going to drive people completely away from qt. I feel that you should've started with estimations for the low cost option and then demonstrated with the gear you had. Cycled qt tanks are going to be the most successful. Just don't use antibiotics prophylacticlly and treat only if it appears. Non cycled means you have to constantly change water which is more cost and you have to make that water at the same therapeutic level. It is much more intensive and a less beginner level approach imo
I don’t see how you keep getting thumbs down, it must be from so-called experts that do it a different way!!!!! Anyway great video as always 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇬🇧
I just bought an Aqueon kit from Petco. 10 gallon is less than 100 bucks and 20 gallon is 140. Cones with tank, heater, filter, net. It’s a very reasonably priced option
I have to give aqueon some props... the powerheads & pro heaters have lasted a very long time for me.. sure there are exceptions once in a while... but the ease of return and emergency pickup for someplace close by makes it a great option.
You can easily set up a 10 gallon QT tank that will accommodate even SPS corals for about 200 fun dollars. Think thats too much to spend? Ask yourself how much do you have invested in your display and if its worth starting all over again. Like your Grandmother used to say...A ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! She was right, it is!!!
4th very easy and stablel method imo (elliot from marine collectors method) run cycled and just replace biofilter after using antibiotics and doing WC. Use plastic bioballs in your hang on back.. and just always have some seeding in a mesh bag in your DT Sump to add back to qt filter after treatment.
As someone who keeps freshwater fish, I find that tank raised/captive bred fish that are healthy and kept in a clean environment don't really have many diseases on them, and I typically don't quarantine fish that are captive bred. I know saltwater fish are more numerous wild-caught, but if I were to only keep a handful of small fish (say a clownfish, shrimp goby, dragonet, etc) that are avaliable captive bred, would the quarantine proscess really be nescesary?
3rd qt option... (really want to hear thoughts & comments) 2 tanks.. 2 20gal tanks or 20 & 10. So basically.. run a cycled tank with a sump AND A Hang on back .now...here's the important part.. cycled is easier so run this and when meds are needed just put the return line into the drain and keep simple sump going while top runs on its own.. once done with antibiotics and big Water change.. reengage sump with mesh filter sock or basket of plastic bioballs.. use blue aquamesh for chamber dividers which act as physical and bio filters. Cheap tanks cheap pond pump or maxijet for return. Drilling part sucks.. but.. 10$ tank is a great way to practice & get over fear if your going to be in this hobby for a while.
If you use cheaper hob filter.. look up king of diy surface skimmer using plastic bottle & filter floss. OH!.. just realized instead of a separate lil pump for this.. you can attatch a hose from your hob filter to the Plastic bottle and make the surface skimmer be the intake for the hob filter! Use a water bottle with a sippy top which acts as a hose barb.
I'm running my first QT (uncycled). Its for all inverts going into my system. I put them into pristine water that had been mixed a couple days earlier. The cleaner shrimp died within 36 hours, the rest of the mix are perfectly fine and tussling about happy 4 days in. Its a small 8g tank w/carbon and ceramic in the chamber so water changes are easy. I did 1g after the shrimp died just in case. Everything tests awesome so I am baffled why the Cleaner shrimp died, especially since I did a very careful drip over a couple hours to get him matching. I called the store and told them what I did, they believe that going from an established store tank to pristine water was too much of a shock. They recommend I do cycled QT from now on to make sure there are microbes in the water going foreword. IDK if that is science or not...but there is a dead shrimp and perfect water. I'll do 10-15% water changes every other day in the meantime just to be safe.
Question - THE API TESTS keep coming up at .50 PPM ammonia, I can't seem to get it lower in my qt tank. I keep removing the waste and doing daily water changes but it doesn't seem to go down. I also tested the hanna high nitrate and it read 0.0. So do i just keep doing daily water changes, or at what level do I need to worry about ammonia?
Treating all fish with medication is up for debate, but at a minimum I'd use Safety Stop and then observe fish for any signs of disease (treating if needed) before adding to display tank.
Hi Mathew nice video but I have a question didn't you say to cycle the tank before because that way the fishes don't suffer or get stress because of the ammonia spike, I kinda want to cycle it first just to be on the safe side 😉
If you have the time to cycle the tank before use, that's a great way to go. Sometimes emergencies pop up and taking days or even weeks to cycle just isn't an option.
This may be an option. Keep some bio blocks in your sump. Once you need to setup your QT tank pull some blocks from the sump and put them in the QT tank. Then put some fresh blocks in your sump to replace the ones you removed.
This might be a dumb question.. If a UV sterilizer can control ich or other parasites. Could you m have a UV sterilizer hung on a QT tank and not have to add copper and such chemicals to treat?
Petco has a dollar per gallon sale all the time. Get a 10 dollar tank and a sponge filter and airpump. Add a preset heater, and you have a tank for under 60 bucks. I'm just saying I think people can afford to quarantine.
Hunky Dory has a long unclear history, that was debated even back in the 1800s. Although the explanation that makes sense to me is that it's a loan word from the Japanese "honcho dori." Broadly honcho dori means main street, but specifically it's a road connecting Tokyo and Yokohama. In olden times that was where foreign soldiers were allowed to visit the bars, gambling and prostitution houses. So hunky dory became synonymous with good times, or the proverbial easy street.
@@MyFirstFishTank I meant foreign sailors, not soldiers. Although soldiers would visit the same areas centuries later during the post WWII occupation. I guess the lesson we all should learn is to not trust RUclips commenters… great videos!
Using all of BRS supplied products is not a way to reduce costs lol Just take their all inclusive tax addon to Canadian orders. Makes ordering from them cost prohibitive.
In my experience quarantine tank are a waste of time , when fish get scared there immune system is weak then get ick,I have quarantine fish but they still get ick, just slowly introduce them into tank with no light and wait for two they then feed always work for me ,ick is always in your tank..all these product are just for making money.
Once introduced into a tank, ich will effectively always be in your tank. Quarantine from the start and you can avoid having it in your tank. It has to be present for a fish to "catch it" immune weakened or not. Now Ich is only one example. Marine velvet, another parasite, is capable of killing most if not all fish within days if introduced into your main tank. Quarantine prevents rather than relying on having to "manage" the problem in your main tank. It's similar to insurance, you may never need it but if you do and do not have it you'll regret it.
This is why discus are my favorite fish salt, or freshwater. Its so damn easy to treat ick and fully wipe it out with them considering they can stand water in the 90f's. Besides ickx, and copper I've had no luck treating and illness with meds. Hikari is a surprisingly reliable company, but its not to surprising when you see how long they've been in business.
@@freakygoblin3068 Yes you can get it out of a tank. Take out all the fish, and coral. Then set your heater for 90f+, and treat with ick x / ick x saltwater. Most external parasites will be dead in the tank within a month at that temp. Don't bother using a lot of these snake oil meds. Hikari has been around since the 1800's for a reason.
@@invaderjoshua6280 So far more effort than quarantining in the first place and not allowing it into your system in the first place. Still each to his/her own.
@@freakygoblin3068 I never said not to quarantine. Only a retard wouldn't do that with the kind of money fish, or coral cost. I just stated a fact that discus are awesome, and that you can treat a display tank, and the tank isn't lost without hope.
I think there's should've been more stress put on alternative for the equipment you used. 300$ is going to drive people completely away from qt. I feel that you should've started with estimations for the low cost option and then demonstrated with the gear you had. Cycled qt tanks are going to be the most successful. Just don't use antibiotics prophylacticlly and treat only if it appears. Non cycled means you have to constantly change water which is more cost and you have to make that water at the same therapeutic level. It is much more intensive and a less beginner level approach imo
I don’t see how you keep getting thumbs down, it must be from so-called experts that do it a different way!!!!!
Anyway great video as always 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇬🇧
Love your serious on QT. I want to learn more. Just starting off.
I just bought an Aqueon kit from Petco. 10 gallon is less than 100 bucks and 20 gallon is 140. Cones with tank, heater, filter, net. It’s a very reasonably priced option
I have to give aqueon some props... the powerheads & pro heaters have lasted a very long time for me.. sure there are exceptions once in a while... but the ease of return and emergency pickup for someplace close by makes it a great option.
I actually use that same filter on my qt system I love the versatility of it
You can easily set up a 10 gallon QT tank that will accommodate even SPS corals for about 200 fun dollars. Think thats too much to spend? Ask yourself how much do you have invested in your display and if its worth starting all over again. Like your Grandmother used to say...A ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! She was right, it is!!!
Although you are not really talking quarantine for things like snails, always do a visual check for things like the pesky vermetid snails
I’ve main tank a coral qt tank and fish only tank 👍 great vid reefer
4th very easy and stablel method imo (elliot from marine collectors method) run cycled and just replace biofilter after using antibiotics and doing WC. Use plastic bioballs in your hang on back.. and just always have some seeding in a mesh bag in your DT Sump to add back to qt filter after treatment.
Very much the beginner here. Love this series Matthew! Question I have is; do you set up the QT “as needed” or do you keep one running? Thank you!
As someone who keeps freshwater fish, I find that tank raised/captive bred fish that are healthy and kept in a clean environment don't really have many diseases on them, and I typically don't quarantine fish that are captive bred. I know saltwater fish are more numerous wild-caught, but if I were to only keep a handful of small fish (say a clownfish, shrimp goby, dragonet, etc) that are avaliable captive bred, would the quarantine proscess really be nescesary?
Hunky dory lmao hell yea!!
3rd qt option... (really want to hear thoughts & comments) 2 tanks.. 2 20gal tanks or 20 & 10. So basically.. run a cycled tank with a sump AND A Hang on back .now...here's the important part.. cycled is easier so run this and when meds are needed just put the return line into the drain and keep simple sump going while top runs on its own.. once done with antibiotics and big Water change.. reengage sump with mesh filter sock or basket of plastic bioballs.. use blue aquamesh for chamber dividers which act as physical and bio filters. Cheap tanks cheap pond pump or maxijet for return. Drilling part sucks.. but.. 10$ tank is a great way to practice & get over fear if your going to be in this hobby for a while.
If you use cheaper hob filter.. look up king of diy surface skimmer using plastic bottle & filter floss. OH!.. just realized instead of a separate lil pump for this.. you can attatch a hose from your hob filter to the Plastic bottle and make the surface skimmer be the intake for the hob filter! Use a water bottle with a sippy top which acts as a hose barb.
I'm running my first QT (uncycled). Its for all inverts going into my system. I put them into pristine water that had been mixed a couple days earlier. The cleaner shrimp died within 36 hours, the rest of the mix are perfectly fine and tussling about happy 4 days in.
Its a small 8g tank w/carbon and ceramic in the chamber so water changes are easy. I did 1g after the shrimp died just in case. Everything tests awesome so I am baffled why the Cleaner shrimp died, especially since I did a very careful drip over a couple hours to get him matching. I called the store and told them what I did, they believe that going from an established store tank to pristine water was too much of a shock. They recommend I do cycled QT from now on to make sure there are microbes in the water going foreword. IDK if that is science or not...but there is a dead shrimp and perfect water. I'll do 10-15% water changes every other day in the meantime just to be safe.
Wondering if when seting up a new tank, would it be smart to pick up for first batch of fish and put them in quarantine while the tank is cycling?
4:02 what are those, sea slugs?
Question - THE API TESTS keep coming up at .50 PPM ammonia, I can't seem to get it lower in my qt tank. I keep removing the waste and doing daily water changes but it doesn't seem to go down. I also tested the hanna high nitrate and it read 0.0. So do i just keep doing daily water changes, or at what level do I need to worry about ammonia?
So, quarantine the clean up crew??
Treating all fish with medication is up for debate, but at a minimum I'd use Safety Stop and then observe fish for any signs of disease (treating if needed) before adding to display tank.
That is a super expensive tank for a QT system.
I agree. Unless its for plants/corals it doesn't need the light.
its definitely not "budget" but I don't think I'd go so far as to say "super expensive".
@@rowgegaming5048 for a QT it is. Mine and everyone I know has an Aquean for the dollar per gallon sales that they do around holidays.
Yeah, but BRS doesn’t sell cheap stuff. You can do a whole starter aquarium setup from Petco for under 100 bucks for 10 gallon or 140 for 20 gallon
You can microwave the sand and then reuse it.
good idea that or a while in the oven at high temp. or just use it in the garden.
You'll find some sand actually has metal particles in it which could get interesting.
@@freakygoblin3068 Definitely don't microwave black sand.
@@pwitt5398 Lol beat me to it.
Hi Mathew nice video but I have a question didn't you say to cycle the tank before because that way the fishes don't suffer or get stress because of the ammonia spike, I kinda want to cycle it first just to be on the safe side 😉
If you have the time to cycle the tank before use, that's a great way to go. Sometimes emergencies pop up and taking days or even weeks to cycle just isn't an option.
@@BulkReefSupply thanks Mathew guru for answering 😀
This may be an option. Keep some bio blocks in your sump. Once you need to setup your QT tank pull some blocks from the sump and put them in the QT tank. Then put some fresh blocks in your sump to replace the ones you removed.
This might be a dumb question.. If a UV sterilizer can control ich or other parasites. Could you m have a UV sterilizer hung on a QT tank and not have to add copper and such chemicals to treat?
Keep in mind that UV is a helpful preventative measure, but not a complete cure for fish disease like ich, velvet, or others.
❤️👍
Petco has a dollar per gallon sale all the time. Get a 10 dollar tank and a sponge filter and airpump. Add a preset heater, and you have a tank for under 60 bucks. I'm just saying I think people can afford to quarantine.
Agreed! :-)
Hunky Dory has a long unclear history, that was debated even back in the 1800s. Although the explanation that makes sense to me is that it's a loan word from the Japanese "honcho dori." Broadly honcho dori means main street, but specifically it's a road connecting Tokyo and Yokohama. In olden times that was where foreign soldiers were allowed to visit the bars, gambling and prostitution houses. So hunky dory became synonymous with good times, or the proverbial easy street.
Yes! I learned so much!
@@MyFirstFishTank I meant foreign sailors, not soldiers. Although soldiers would visit the same areas centuries later during the post WWII occupation. I guess the lesson we all should learn is to not trust RUclips commenters… great videos!
If you don't QT, you can't come into my fish room.
What % of your fish die from the fish store?
Using all of BRS supplied products is not a way to reduce costs lol Just take their all inclusive tax addon to Canadian orders. Makes ordering from them cost prohibitive.
In my experience quarantine tank are a waste of time , when fish get scared there immune system is weak then get ick,I have quarantine fish but they still get ick, just slowly introduce them into tank with no light and wait for two they then feed always work for me ,ick is always in your tank..all these product are just for making money.
Once introduced into a tank, ich will effectively always be in your tank. Quarantine from the start and you can avoid having it in your tank. It has to be present for a fish to "catch it" immune weakened or not. Now Ich is only one example. Marine velvet, another parasite, is capable of killing most if not all fish within days if introduced into your main tank. Quarantine prevents rather than relying on having to "manage" the problem in your main tank. It's similar to insurance, you may never need it but if you do and do not have it you'll regret it.
This is why discus are my favorite fish salt, or freshwater. Its so damn easy to treat ick and fully wipe it out with them considering they can stand water in the 90f's. Besides ickx, and copper I've had no luck treating and illness with meds. Hikari is a surprisingly reliable company, but its not to surprising when you see how long they've been in business.
@@freakygoblin3068 Yes you can get it out of a tank. Take out all the fish, and coral. Then set your heater for 90f+, and treat with ick x / ick x saltwater. Most external parasites will be dead in the tank within a month at that temp. Don't bother using a lot of these snake oil meds. Hikari has been around since the 1800's for a reason.
@@invaderjoshua6280 So far more effort than quarantining in the first place and not allowing it into your system in the first place. Still each to his/her own.
@@freakygoblin3068 I never said not to quarantine. Only a retard wouldn't do that with the kind of money fish, or coral cost. I just stated a fact that discus are awesome, and that you can treat a display tank, and the tank isn't lost without hope.