Hi Battery Doctor The "Res" in display is the resistance from the load. The internal res. from a battery can be calculated with the difference between the no load voltage and the voltage short after switch on the load (voltage drop) divided through the current. (in CC mode and connected with 4 wire system. There are special 4 wire holders for xx650 batteries on market)
Hi! Thanks for the video! I have several different power stations, I wanted to test them with Electronic Load Tester with the USB-C cord, the load stops at 15.9W+. What's interesting is that when I load the stations through the same port and cord, but with a laptop, 70-90W goes smoothly. I can't understand what the problem is and how to load the stations through the type-c port using the Load tester more than 15.9W?
Nice test, i just ordered this. I am going to test my old lead acid batteries in my boat, i got 3x 110Amps lead acid, there are 5+ years now, so i want to test the total amp in each. I was thinking a discharge rate of 5 amps on one battery at time, and an volt cutoff at 10.8v. Can you help me with if that sounds ok ? So we usually only take lead acid down to 50%, around 12v, but i read when they do testing , it will show less then 12V when i am having a load on them. So my good man, can you help me set up a good test for my batteries ? I could also just test them down to 50%, like stop them at 12V, but i am sure the batteries will not be 12v with the load, so i could put cutoff at 11.5 ? Keep up the good work, and i hope to hear from you with some help.
If you have the same taster as in the wideo you can change leads to 4 wire metod to accurately show voltage. If in 4 wire metod you See that much drop in voltage the battery is probably in bad shape.
is it possible to use this meter to discharge a drill battery from 20 volts to 18 volts (5 cels*3.8 volts=18volts) in such a way as to keep it at the optimum conservation voltage for long storage? Thanks
@@MihaSun Just keep in mind you're limited to 150 watts. So the max current might be 10A but 150W comes first so you'll be limited to about 7-8A of discharge. That's plenty and will discharge the pack to storage voltage in under an hour unless it is a huge battery. Storage voltage for lithium ion cylindrical cells (18650, 21700, etc) is between 3.50 and 3.70 per cell. If it's going to sit for a long time (6 months+) go close to 3.70. If its going to sit for less than 4-6 weeks you can go closer to 3.50. The "danger" which really isn't a concern is the pack does very very slowly self discharge. We're talking 1% or 2% a month tops. Even for used cells they shouldn't degrade more than 5% a month. Technically the lower the state of charge the less stress there is and the less it degrades but if you put it near empty and let it sit for a long time you'd kill the pack. So 3.50 per cell is about 40% which leaves plenty of room in case you forget about it for a while, 3.70 means you could forget about it for years and it likely would be ok. As long as its under 4.00 you avoid the majority of the damage that can happen when left at high state of charge. So 5*3.50is 17.50V. Keep in mind that when you set a cutoff voltage it will rebound a bit. Some lipo dischargers hit the cutoff voltage then start to ramp down the current. That causes the pack to settle pretty much exactly at the set cut off voltage but the way these things work is even at 10A if it hits the cut off voltage it stops. A 5S pack could rebound a half volt or more at 10A.
@@MihaSun and I much prefer the DL24 electronic load. There are many models but the basic DL24 is 150W 20A. So for single 3.7V/max charge 4.2V lithium ion cells you can test them at 20A if they are power cells. There's also a 180W 20A one for a few dollars more. Pricing is about $32/$37 shipped to the US. They have several models that all do a few extra functions but nothing worth going into detail about here. They do have a modular unit that allows you to attach "amplifier" boards is what I would call them. The primary board is capable of 25A 150W. Each amplifier board allows another 150W and an extra 5A. The max is 40A so three more boards. Cost for that with 3 amplifier boards is $70 on sale right now. Technically you can add even more boards for 1200W but the amperage maxes out at 40A, probably a limit of the mosfet.
Hi battery doctor ..what is the best internal resistance of 18650 cell that we can use for 10s battery. Does it really matters or have something to do with the battery performance....i mean if i use cells with resistance above 40 mR ( litokala lii 500) i won't get much km distance. Thanks in advance.
New cells have about 20 mR, old cells over 100, the IR meter in lii 500 is not accurate. A real tester is more expensive but more accurate, s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DdzttBN
@@jeffhunter6700 Yes, Its for 5-150V so can test basically anything with it, We test mostlly 24-60V ebike batteries with these. Remember to set the stopvoltage if you dont trust your BMS!
@@Rcfishingagadir This is for testing batterypacks. For indivdual cell testing we recommend Lii-500 or MC3000. If you are asking for specific IR numbers for old cells that varies beetween brands. So you will have to test new cells for know the best value and calculate from that,
Has anyone tried using these for charging capacity testing? Eg hook up V+ / V- to the battery as usual. A+ goes to a charging supply positive, A- goes to the battery positive, battery negative goes to the charging supply negative. The charge current would go through the test load, then through the battery in series. Might depend if the voltage and amps metering are isolated or not.
The unit has Rx TX header. Is there any data going or receiving on the port ? The interface is 3.3v TTL. So this is right on the micro. Anybody experimented yet ?
This is nice for 1 cell or battery, but if you have a few hundred cells to test, one of the free devices that we are giving it away for free would be great
Do you have something bigger you can recommend? Any higher watt testers usually start at €500, this we can get for €25 wholesale. You can connect more of them in parallel if you need more load. And if one breaks it cheaper replace then one €500 machine. If you need better and cheaper then people use electric heats with a wattmeter/timer attached. Then you get a 2000 W load for under €40, but it also gets hot...
I love hearing this guys voice , Hes like a kid in a candy store! VERY refreshing
should you put the temp sensor to the battery instead?
Hi Battery Doctor
The "Res" in display is the resistance from the load. The internal res. from a battery can be calculated with the difference between the no load voltage and the voltage short after switch on the load (voltage drop) divided through the current.
(in CC mode and connected with 4 wire system. There are special 4 wire holders for xx650 batteries on market)
Hi! Thanks for the video! I have several different power stations, I wanted to test them with Electronic Load Tester with the USB-C cord, the load stops at 15.9W+. What's interesting is that when I load the stations through the same port and cord, but with a laptop, 70-90W goes smoothly. I can't understand what the problem is and how to load the stations through the type-c port using the Load tester more than 15.9W?
Based on the principle of the discharger, do I have to test it with the battery fully charged to get accurate data?
Can I use this to check a 48v battery pack?
Could you tell me if the centre contact of the required 12v 1amp PSU is positive or negative please?
test it at 150V 10A and 100V 15A, also, check the ratings of the FET
Your math doesn’t work here… it’s NOT a 1500W device…
Is it possible to upgrade this by upgrading the Heat Sink to support more wattage?
Nice test, i just ordered this.
I am going to test my old lead acid batteries in my boat, i got 3x 110Amps lead acid, there are 5+ years now, so i want to test the total amp in each.
I was thinking a discharge rate of 5 amps on one battery at time, and an volt cutoff at 10.8v.
Can you help me with if that sounds ok ?
So we usually only take lead acid down to 50%, around 12v, but i read when they do testing , it will show less then 12V when i am having a load on them.
So my good man, can you help me set up a good test for my batteries ?
I could also just test them down to 50%, like stop them at 12V, but i am sure the batteries will not be 12v with the load, so i could put cutoff at 11.5 ?
Keep up the good work, and i hope to hear from you with some help.
If you have the same taster as in the wideo you can change leads to 4 wire metod to accurately show voltage. If in 4 wire metod you See that much drop in voltage the battery is probably in bad shape.
Could you make a detailed review of the product from Bangood "150W Tuya WiFi Smart Power Electronic Load Tester".
What is the NTC thermistor value?(or at a certain room temperature) Thanks
is it possible to use this meter to discharge a drill battery from 20 volts to 18 volts (5 cels*3.8 volts=18volts) in such a way as to keep it at the optimum conservation voltage for long storage?
Thanks
Yep it’s just like a lipo discharger
@@ericklein5097 thanks
@@MihaSun Just keep in mind you're limited to 150 watts. So the max current might be 10A but 150W comes first so you'll be limited to about 7-8A of discharge. That's plenty and will discharge the pack to storage voltage in under an hour unless it is a huge battery. Storage voltage for lithium ion cylindrical cells (18650, 21700, etc) is between 3.50 and 3.70 per cell. If it's going to sit for a long time (6 months+) go close to 3.70. If its going to sit for less than 4-6 weeks you can go closer to 3.50. The "danger" which really isn't a concern is the pack does very very slowly self discharge. We're talking 1% or 2% a month tops. Even for used cells they shouldn't degrade more than 5% a month. Technically the lower the state of charge the less stress there is and the less it degrades but if you put it near empty and let it sit for a long time you'd kill the pack. So 3.50 per cell is about 40% which leaves plenty of room in case you forget about it for a while, 3.70 means you could forget about it for years and it likely would be ok. As long as its under 4.00 you avoid the majority of the damage that can happen when left at high state of charge.
So 5*3.50is 17.50V. Keep in mind that when you set a cutoff voltage it will rebound a bit. Some lipo dischargers hit the cutoff voltage then start to ramp down the current. That causes the pack to settle pretty much exactly at the set cut off voltage but the way these things work is even at 10A if it hits the cut off voltage it stops. A 5S pack could rebound a half volt or more at 10A.
@@MihaSun and I much prefer the DL24 electronic load. There are many models but the basic DL24 is 150W 20A. So for single 3.7V/max charge 4.2V lithium ion cells you can test them at 20A if they are power cells. There's also a 180W 20A one for a few dollars more. Pricing is about $32/$37 shipped to the US.
They have several models that all do a few extra functions but nothing worth going into detail about here. They do have a modular unit that allows you to attach "amplifier" boards is what I would call them. The primary board is capable of 25A 150W. Each amplifier board allows another 150W and an extra 5A. The max is 40A so three more boards. Cost for that with 3 amplifier boards is $70 on sale right now. Technically you can add even more boards for 1200W but the amperage maxes out at 40A, probably a limit of the mosfet.
@@ericklein5097 Thanks
hello..nice video...is there any setting to stop the beep sound ?..I found it very anoying.. thx .
I want to know this too
Thank you. I will now purchase one after seeing this.
Hi battery doctor ..what is the best internal resistance of 18650 cell that we can use for 10s battery. Does it really matters or have something to do with the battery performance....i mean if i use cells with resistance above 40 mR ( litokala lii 500) i won't get much km distance. Thanks in advance.
New cells have about 20 mR, old cells over 100, the IR meter in lii 500 is not accurate. A real tester is more expensive but more accurate, s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DdzttBN
Ok thanks . So what should be the best and accurate number for old cells even if they have a good capacity..like above 1900....2200 mah.
Can you use this on 36 v e-bike battery’s or is it for single 18650 battery’s
@@jeffhunter6700 Yes, Its for 5-150V so can test basically anything with it, We test mostlly 24-60V ebike batteries with these. Remember to set the stopvoltage if you dont trust your BMS!
@@Rcfishingagadir This is for testing batterypacks. For indivdual cell testing we recommend Lii-500 or MC3000. If you are asking for specific IR numbers for old cells that varies beetween brands. So you will have to test new cells for know the best value and calculate from that,
Looking to buy one: nice review. Thx.
Has anyone tried using these for charging capacity testing? Eg hook up V+ / V- to the battery as usual. A+ goes to a charging supply positive, A- goes to the battery positive, battery negative goes to the charging supply negative. The charge current would go through the test load, then through the battery in series. Might depend if the voltage and amps metering are isolated or not.
How many amps do you think it would push at 12V before tripping the breaker?
12.5A?
which model best for 48 volt battery pack?
This works great for 48V, from single cell upp to 150V batteries.
@@Batteridoktorn Thanks we do try it later.
@@BatteridoktornCan this be used for measuring mobilephone battery capacity
Well, a cheaper version of the DL24. Good if you don't care about PC connection and parameter recording.
The unit has Rx TX header. Is there any data going or receiving on the port ? The interface is 3.3v TTL. So this is right on the micro. Anybody experimented yet ?
Does anyone know the whereabouts of an instruction manual or even getting started guide for this contraption?
if you google dtl150 manual it should be one of the top results
There should be a QR code on the fan to download the manual. Not sure if it's still working though.
This is nice for 1 cell or battery, but if you have a few hundred cells to test, one of the free devices that we are giving it away for free would be great
My only fear is it breaking after 24 hours run time and catching fire.
A bit useless (150 watt) for bigger Batteries but ok.
Do you have something bigger you can recommend? Any higher watt testers usually start at €500, this we can get for €25 wholesale. You can connect more of them in parallel if you need more load. And if one breaks it cheaper replace then one €500 machine. If you need better and cheaper then people use electric heats with a wattmeter/timer attached. Then you get a 2000 W load for under €40, but it also gets hot...
@@TheBatteryDoctor make sense, probably matching normal usage better.
Kan rekommendera KP184 400W. Har fyra stycken.
These are shit I wish I never got this one
may i ask why? i got the same one and it's great for single cells and battery packs. the wire connector is getting loose tho