I've sent my feedback to Gophert regarding this power supply, here is what their comment on insulating the bottom side of the pcb against the enclosure: "according to LVD regulations EN 60950 and EN 61558, the power supply is class I which the case is connected to the Earth, basic insulation is ok, the clearance between PCB to the cabinet is about 5mm, the regulation is >3.2mm, so i think the insulation of the power supply is safe."
Yeah, it looked like it had a lot more clearance than the typical switch mode supplies with cheap perforated metal protection/cases that always have that insulation sheet. The PCB looked like standard 0.60 FR4 too. I trust the FR4 will stay rigid and in place a lot more than flexible and flaky CEM-1. I'd really like to see the dual feedback circuit configuration they are using for this. Someone needs to send one of these to Danyk for an epic Diodes Gone Wild reverse engineer and schematic :-) Thanks for the upload. -Jake
Debt of gratitude. I have such a power supply for 12 years. It is working 8hours a day. No matter what i threw at it, it lasted. Reverse polarity, accidental power feed, a whole year of high inductance back emf. I did every harmful thing i could do, yet, it lasted. This power supply is immortal. It was not made in china, it was made in hell. If it survived me, it can survive anything.
Very useful vid with detailed measurements, thanks for this holistic view. Also really enjoyed the teardown with the explanations and your recommendations. Well done!
Seems pretty good, thanks for the comprehensive review. The only thing I would have preferred is to have V, A and W simultaneously, but that would probably require a more expensive display.
I don't know if they stepped down their quality, but the unit I received this weekend is not of the quality that is displayed in this video! The device keeps overshooting by almost 1 Volt at all levels, and testing it with a LED at a CC of 10mA and 5V, the LED clearly shows this overvoltage by flashing pretty bright during activating the powerbutton on the front. The device also spikes after turning it on with the powerbutton at the back, especially if it was turned on a short while after turning it off! Inspecting the PCB also gave me a shock, as the flux is all over the place and the soldering is of poor quality with lots of tin dropouts and smurky larger pads. I bought this unit after seeing this video, and also because I already own a CPS-3205 that works well. The only thing that does seem to help in the overshoot is placing a 2200uF capacitor on the output. All in all I had expected much better quality...
Sorry to hear this from you. It could be the famous Chinese #100 unlucky unit when 99 units before yours were perfectly fine and here comes this one, not up to the established quality level. For instance, the factory (if there is an actual "factory"... who knows) apprentice worked on your unit (everyone has to start somewhere) and the QC was really flexible which is often the case in making it pass. However your report on the1V overshoot is clearly beyond the acceptable margin.
yes, indeed it is and I now realize that might bother some people. For me it was not a problem because I have thin finger and the PSU will sit on top of other units anyway so it would have the knob easy accessible.
I'm a bit surprised that they are able to get that voltage accuracy using LM358. I wonder if they are doing some production-time calibration of those things. Using LM358 for current shunt amplifier is even more strange. This opamp has like 4mV of offset. I understand, that this is the cheapest (and the crappiest) opamp on earth, but they could have used something a bit better.
I've been avoiding replacing the cheap DC-DC buck converters I've been using for a few years, and was even looking at buying another just in case I blow another one up. But considering this is half the price of buying a similar switchmode benchtop power supply locally, even including delivery from China, it's really tempting to splash out and buy a couple of these instead. Definitely going on my Christmas wishlist! Who am I kidding, if I haven't bought them before then, it'll be a Christmas miracle!
It would be nice to lock the display on Watts instead of a very useless 3-seconds.. could Gophert get that suggestion? Also, some users could extract each of the 470uF Samxon (not Samson or Samsung..) output caps and replace them each with something smaller, like 220uF in parallel with a 10uF MLCC underneath (both low ESR and rated at 50v since 35v is way too close to be reliable). Might be an idea for another episode..?
Howdy Cliff, Would changing the capacitor values adversely affect (what I assume is) the LC output filter and it's frequency response? (genuinely asking because I don't know:) -Jake
@@UpcycleElectronics I've not seen the schematic but you're right, I had not thought of the smoothing inductor prior to the 1st cap! The interconnect is the inductor for the 2nd cap so maybe just reducing the 2nd cap and adding a couple of MLCC's right at the front panel would show some results as proof of concept.. almost anything's better than Samxon.
Not that I am some kind of reference but I haven't seen failed Samxon capacitors so far. I don't think they are the lowest quality, I think they are among the best coming from China, in fact you can even purchase them from European distributors and they have nice datasheets. However changing these caps will likely mess with the stability and filtering characteristics of the PSU.
Very good analysis. What about conversion efficiency and power factor at various settings? These are aspects that could be quite important to those of us off-grid and running off inverter AC power. If they are clipping parts of the line sinewave, in addition to the 300 hz DC output modulation could create some feedback issues to inverters.
I haven't tested power factor, but this model does not have any power factor correction circuitry. If you need that there is the older CPS3205C model with active PFC.
Samxon are actually a quite decent caps. They are a level below Samwha, WE, Kemet and 2 levels below Rubycon, Cornell Dublier and such, but definitely ok for consumer stuff for example. I'd say they are on par with CapXon. From my experience the parameters given in Samxon data sheets are genuine, as opposed for some other chinese brands I have seen. Proper cap model choice for particular usage is also important.
First view of this channel. Very nice detailed review, thanks. I think I will actually buy one of these. Maybe two. Do you know if two of these can be put in series to make a plus-minus power supply? The DC ground in one would have to be isolated to avoid sparks while the AC grounds kept in both for safety. I've done that with fixed output server supplies but they're not capable of Constant Current or adjustable voltage. Is that possible with these units?
I assume the output is not floating? It looks surprisingly good for $60, the performance looks like it can almost hold a candle to some linear supplies... Hopefully the next version has the output jacks at a standard width. It's pretty neat how some of these Chinese manufacturers are breaking the "made in china" stereotypes (just look at Rigol!)
output negative is tied to mains earth via a set of ceramic capacitors but is otherwise isolated so you can tie these power supplies in series/parallel.
Oh that makes sense, interesting. I'd be too worried about busting my scope if I were powering a device with this.. I'm no pro. Guess I'm stuck with giant linear supplies huh
Yup, I agree with you for the most part. The spacing of the output jacks is a biggie, as well as the lack of power factor correction. Otherwise it would be #1 on my list for a lab supply! 🥴
Thanks for the review. Seems like even after those years, there are no many cheap low-ripple bench PSUs. I wonder if you have measures ripple and rms noise in CC mode ? Are there any other PSUs to recommend ? I'm looking especially smt in 60V 5A level. I was about to buy OWON SPE6103, but this is not PSU, but a jammer.
I have relatively thin fingers so for me it's not an issue even when placed at bench level but I can see how this could affect other people. For me it's even easier because I keep them stacked so there is nothing really beneath the knob to bother me. I would recommend to keep it stacked on top of something else if you have thicker fingers, that might help. Overall if I had to choose between having the terminals on the front panel vs having the knob higher I would definitely go for the output terminals on the front panel, that's a serious improvement.
That's quite a thorough review and the psu looks like a nice unit; I can't really fault them on the price either, unfortunately though it's very much comparably priced with other standard (linear?) lab supplies, and I never really could justify spending on one of those either (considering most hobby digital stuff I do works off a 5V or 3.3V wall wart anyway)...
I'm trying to use NPS-1601 to charge a small battery pack - 3 AAA cells, 550 mAh, NiMh at C/10 (55 mA). The power supply will not go into constant-current mode with only the battery connected unless the voltage is raised to 4.95 volts which is higher than recommended for NiMh chemistry. Replacing the battery with a resistor, 82 ohms triggers constant-current mode below 54 mA but above that 56 mA and higher the power supply reverts to constant voltage mode.
Hi. Did you solve this problem somehow? My issue is a "little bit" different charging of car battery 60 Ah with 1/10C. I set 5 A and charging battery but when voltage rise to some x level it switch to CV mode and this disturbing. Does elder models like 6017, 8412 has same situation? Or it just some comparator inside and how to fix it or it is impossible?
I have a 3205C and 6005 but the logic of these new model number is truly baffling. Their other models are based on the voltage and current yet, instead of calling this a 3205D, they go with... 1601???? Then the 1600 is actually 16 volt so it makes half sense but 10 amp so it should be a 1610... the 1602 is 60v 3 amp...
Have you measured the temperature inside after running for some time at high load? It be interesting to see how effective the passive cooling is, especially when stacked. Also since dual supply can be quite useful, it would be nice if there was some way to link two of them. One being the master, so they can at least be switched on and off at the same time. Even better if you run them in series or parallel (one of the main features of real dual PSUs), you only set the voltage/current on one. While we are at that, make the cases stack well (with special shaped feet or spacers that connect them relatively rigidly to each other).
I've been telling them it would be nice to have a serial port with a simple command protocol since they've sent me the first power supply years ago. Then the user could add a bluetooth module or an additional controller and do interesting stuff like what you mentioned above. But this is their budget power supply line and they have another line which is more expensive with functions like serial interface and data logging and they probably don't want the budget line to eat the market of the more advanced one.
Any chance you could review this way Yihua 3005D? There are also GVDA, IVYTECH, similar to this power supplies. Anyway, I'm was just wondering, maybe you have a subscriber or a friend that has one and would send in for a review. But it's not necessary, I'll likely just choose the unit from this video, since you did such a great review of it. Thank you. Best.
I bet it would be a pretty simple board to order from somewhere (*cough*JLCPCB*cough*) to make those banana jacks "fit" with some slight modification to the case.
I would think that if it's from the same series starting with NPS it should have a similar construction. I could ask the manufacturer and get back to you.
Hi I have the Gopher 1600 is there any way when I said the push knob to course they will stay there it keeps reversing back to fine after a few seconds is there any way of keeping it on horse all the time when the power supply is turned on thanks very much Great videos
I've commented on this video 5 months ago and got my answer quite well, but before i now finally buy this supply, I must ask one last thing... How bad is the voltage drift as the supply gets hotter? My cps-3205 has a drift of 0.6v (over the set voltage) at full load due to heat.
The only thing I don't really like about this power supply is that the buttons are hard to push. I have to hold onto the case to press buttons so that it doesn't slide.
I agree, it could be nicer with softer buttons but then, you would have the issue of accidentally pressing them because they are so close to each other..
They do have a bit of a film from the front panel cover, it does help a bit but not as good as a proper filter. In any case that's a simple mod the user can do.
Hi just wondering if this unit could be used as a power supply for HiFi components running 9 - 12volts as ripple seems very low on this product. As checking other cheap linear designs they seem to be all rated 13.8v which I think would put too much stress on some components of my dacs and pre amps.
It is possible to add voltage sense terminals to this power supply ? Something like the circuit in "The Art of Electronics, The X Chapters" on page 454.?
Sorry something went wrong with the typing again I have the 1600 when I push for course it only stays on for a few seconds is there anyway to keep course on for as long as I want or there’s a power supply always revert back to fine after a few seconds on the display
Will the higher powered gophert power supplies also have these updates? or only the 32v 5A ones? I hope it comes on banggood soon... this little thing is awesome... although, is the calibration procedure the same for this unit compared to the normal cps model?
Думаю о покупке такого зверя или получше. Нужен для заряда авто акб. Сейчас есть его младший брат 3205, выставляешь максимальный ток 5А (хотя нужно 6А для 60 Ач) по достижении определенного напряжения х на акб он из режима CC сам переходит в CV ( а мне нужно чтобы он продолжал заряжать акб постоянным током 1/10 ёмкости акб до напряжения 14,8 В). Можете пояснить алгоритм формулу работы этого механизма? Поможет ли более мощный лбп держать ток и не переключаться в режим CV? Или я пытаюсь Ома обмануть? (If Google will fail, i can translate into English, just say)
Rui Deng DSP5015 (non communication model), 53V DC input fed by a toroidal transformer, 4x6300uF smoothing caps after rectification. 60mV p-p AC ripple @ 12V 15A (max) load.
Nice analysis, it got me started so I built an alternate front panel for this thing. It's got a 3.2" color touch LCD and a bunch of features to improve usability, accuracy, and safety. There are pictures and design files on Thingverse at www.thingiverse.com/thing:4599959
Can you series connect your two Gopherts as a non trackng positive and negative supply? If you can I might buy another COS3295 to go with the one I have. Would this be a good choice?
Not that I am some kind of reference but I haven't seen failed Samxon capacitors so far. I don't think they are the lowest quality, I think they are among the best coming from China, in fact you can even purchase them from European distributors and they have nice datasheets.
Possibly another failed PSU, it's my rate. I've use this PSU for certain amount of time. At first, look basic but good. But with time, voltage regulation fail, can't give you a correct voltage. And isn't calibration problem.
We have to be careful with Banggood. They don't refund the full purchase price if the good is defective. From recent experience, they refunded me $45 out of $68 for a defective power supply I received. On top of it, they prevented me from doing a review! Buying expensive stuff is a bit risky.
@@voltlog Tx for very good advice. I agree with Claude but not a bit risky , very risky. Bang good and Ali express are on the seller side and you get stuck with chinese quality problems. This encourages their sellers to ship again and again this poor quality. I encounter quality issues with Chinese electronics every time, I order. Just buy cheap you receive the same quality as the expensive items.
Guys, has anyone figured out the calibration procedure? I tried following VL's procedure for 3205, but it seems only the first step is the same, and there's nothing in online manuals I could find.
![OsamaSon - ik what you did last summer [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4DIQDnu3mr4/mqdefault.jpg)
I've sent my feedback to Gophert regarding this power supply, here is what their comment on insulating the bottom side of the pcb against the enclosure: "according to LVD regulations EN 60950 and EN 61558, the power supply is class I which the case is connected to the Earth, basic insulation is ok, the clearance between PCB to the cabinet is about 5mm, the regulation is >3.2mm, so i think the insulation of the power supply is safe."
Yeah, it looked like it had a lot more clearance than the typical switch mode supplies with cheap perforated metal protection/cases that always have that insulation sheet. The PCB looked like standard 0.60 FR4 too. I trust the FR4 will stay rigid and in place a lot more than flexible and flaky CEM-1.
I'd really like to see the dual feedback circuit configuration they are using for this. Someone needs to send one of these to Danyk for an epic Diodes Gone Wild reverse engineer and schematic :-)
Thanks for the upload.
-Jake
I would like to know whether it is good for repairs of laptops, phones, lab and communication equipments. So can a technician use it?
Debt of gratitude.
I have such a power supply for 12 years.
It is working 8hours a day.
No matter what i threw at it, it lasted.
Reverse polarity, accidental power feed, a whole year of high inductance back emf. I did every harmful thing i could do, yet, it lasted.
This power supply is immortal.
It was not made in china, it was made in hell.
If it survived me, it can survive anything.
Just because something is cheap doesn't mean it's a good value. I'm happy you make these reviews for hobbyists like us to get good value for money!
thank you !
Very useful vid with detailed measurements, thanks for this holistic view. Also really enjoyed the teardown with the explanations and your recommendations.
Well done!
thank you!
This channel really is great. He *actually reviews things,* rather than just reading off the spec sheet as most do..
A very tempting unit. I was very surprised by the low price. Always enjoy the range of products you manage to dig out. Thanks.
It does look like excellent performance
yup, looking good on these measurements.
Seems pretty good, thanks for the comprehensive review. The only thing I would have preferred is to have V, A and W simultaneously, but that would probably require a more expensive display.
yes a cost issue and also a space constraint, I don't think there is enough space on the front panel to do that without getting overcrowded.
I don't know if they stepped down their quality, but the unit I received this weekend is not of the quality that is displayed in this video! The device keeps overshooting by almost 1 Volt at all levels, and testing it with a LED at a CC of 10mA and 5V, the LED clearly shows this overvoltage by flashing pretty bright during activating the powerbutton on the front. The device also spikes after turning it on with the powerbutton at the back, especially if it was turned on a short while after turning it off!
Inspecting the PCB also gave me a shock, as the flux is all over the place and the soldering is of poor quality with lots of tin dropouts and smurky larger pads. I bought this unit after seeing this video, and also because I already own a CPS-3205 that works well. The only thing that does seem to help in the overshoot is placing a 2200uF capacitor on the output. All in all I had expected much better quality...
Sorry to hear this from you. It could be the famous Chinese #100 unlucky unit when 99 units before yours were perfectly fine and here comes this one, not up to the established quality level. For instance, the factory (if there is an actual "factory"... who knows) apprentice worked on your unit (everyone has to start somewhere) and the QC was really flexible which is often the case in making it pass. However your report on the1V overshoot is clearly beyond the acceptable margin.
Going to check one of these out, thank you for the review.
Excellent video mate! great review. new sub indeed!
hey dont bash on the ruideng units I love them! so simple to setup and compact, but it is true they are not "lab grade" just hobby grade.
I think the settings knob is a little close to the bottom of the unit. Else it looks nice... thx for this nice review! 👍
yes, indeed it is and I now realize that might bother some people. For me it was not a problem because I have thin finger and the PSU will sit on top of other units anyway so it would have the knob easy accessible.
ooh, good catch. might have to stick some tall feet on it
I'm a bit surprised that they are able to get that voltage accuracy using LM358. I wonder if they are doing some production-time calibration of those things. Using LM358 for current shunt amplifier is even more strange. This opamp has like 4mV of offset. I understand, that this is the cheapest (and the crappiest) opamp on earth, but they could have used something a bit better.
I've been avoiding replacing the cheap DC-DC buck converters I've been using for a few years, and was even looking at buying another just in case I blow another one up. But considering this is half the price of buying a similar switchmode benchtop power supply locally, even including delivery from China, it's really tempting to splash out and buy a couple of these instead. Definitely going on my Christmas wishlist!
Who am I kidding, if I haven't bought them before then, it'll be a Christmas miracle!
There is also the great sale of 11.11 happening in November so we might see some discounts around that time.
why dont they have a website, who actually makes these bench supplies. they look good but always nice to have a website or Aliexpress store
It would be nice to lock the display on Watts instead of a very useless 3-seconds.. could Gophert get that suggestion? Also, some users could extract each of the 470uF Samxon (not Samson or Samsung..) output caps and replace them each with something smaller, like 220uF in parallel with a 10uF MLCC underneath (both low ESR and rated at 50v since 35v is way too close to be reliable). Might be an idea for another episode..?
Howdy Cliff,
Would changing the capacitor values adversely affect (what I assume is) the LC output filter and it's frequency response? (genuinely asking because I don't know:)
-Jake
@@UpcycleElectronics I've not seen the schematic but you're right, I had not thought of the smoothing inductor prior to the 1st cap! The interconnect is the inductor for the 2nd cap so maybe just reducing the 2nd cap and adding a couple of MLCC's right at the front panel would show some results as proof of concept.. almost anything's better than Samxon.
Not that I am some kind of reference but I haven't seen failed Samxon capacitors so far. I don't think they are the lowest quality, I think they are among the best coming from China, in fact you can even purchase them from European distributors and they have nice datasheets. However changing these caps will likely mess with the stability and filtering characteristics of the PSU.
Very good analysis. What about conversion efficiency and power factor at various settings?
These are aspects that could be quite important to those of us off-grid and running off inverter AC power. If they are clipping parts of the line sinewave, in addition to the 300 hz DC output modulation could create some feedback issues to inverters.
I haven't tested power factor, but this model does not have any power factor correction circuitry. If you need that there is the older CPS3205C model with active PFC.
If you're starting from DC, you can get one of those programmable DC/DC converter modules.
Nice item
16:48 I heard "capacitor made by Samsung", then i read "samxon" on the component 😁
You can imagine how Samxon chose their name to sound similar.. it was not an accident.
@@voltlog Perfect opportunity to make a factory called Shamsung. Nobody would suspect that!
Samxon are actually a quite decent caps. They are a level below Samwha, WE, Kemet and 2 levels below Rubycon, Cornell Dublier and such, but definitely ok for consumer stuff for example. I'd say they are on par with CapXon. From my experience the parameters given in Samxon data sheets are genuine, as opposed for some other chinese brands I have seen. Proper cap model choice for particular usage is also important.
LOOKS GOOD - great review!
Really good review!!!
What is the website of the power supply manufacturer Gophert?
First view of this channel. Very nice detailed review, thanks. I think I will actually buy one of these. Maybe two. Do you know if two of these can be put in series to make a plus-minus power supply? The DC ground in one would have to be isolated to avoid sparks while the AC grounds kept in both for safety. I've done that with fixed output server supplies but they're not capable of Constant Current or adjustable voltage. Is that possible with these units?
Sure, you can connect these in series/parallel. Thank you!
I assume the output is not floating?
It looks surprisingly good for $60, the performance looks like it can almost hold a candle to some linear supplies... Hopefully the next version has the output jacks at a standard width.
It's pretty neat how some of these Chinese manufacturers are breaking the "made in china" stereotypes (just look at Rigol!)
output negative is tied to mains earth via a set of ceramic capacitors but is otherwise isolated so you can tie these power supplies in series/parallel.
Ah, that's kinda unfortunate.. Floating with a separate earth post would be ideal IMO
You need that path (through the capacitors) to keep the EMC under control in a switch mode power supply.
Oh that makes sense, interesting.
I'd be too worried about busting my scope if I were powering a device with this.. I'm no pro. Guess I'm stuck with giant linear supplies huh
Yup, I agree with you for the most part. The spacing of the output jacks is a biggie, as well as the lack of power factor correction. Otherwise it would be #1 on my list for a lab supply! 🥴
Thanks for the review. Seems like even after those years, there are no many cheap low-ripple bench PSUs. I wonder if you have measures ripple and rms noise in CC mode ? Are there any other PSUs to recommend ? I'm looking especially smt in 60V 5A level. I was about to buy OWON SPE6103, but this is not PSU, but a jammer.
I wonder if the rotary encoder is not positionned to low compared to the CPS-3205C ? should not be as easy to use (and I use it a lot on my 3205C).
I have relatively thin fingers so for me it's not an issue even when placed at bench level but I can see how this could affect other people. For me it's even easier because I keep them stacked so there is nothing really beneath the knob to bother me. I would recommend to keep it stacked on top of something else if you have thicker fingers, that might help. Overall if I had to choose between having the terminals on the front panel vs having the knob higher I would definitely go for the output terminals on the front panel, that's a serious improvement.
Awesome video friend.
Just by curiosity, how long (overall) did it take to produce this video?
It took about 8 hours in total to produce this video.
That's quite a thorough review and the psu looks like a nice unit; I can't really fault them on the price either, unfortunately though it's very much comparably priced with other standard (linear?) lab supplies, and I never really could justify spending on one of those either (considering most hobby digital stuff I do works off a 5V or 3.3V wall wart anyway)...
Sure if one does not need what this power supply has to offer it's not worth buying.
I'm trying to use NPS-1601 to charge a small battery pack - 3 AAA cells, 550 mAh, NiMh at C/10 (55 mA). The power supply will not go into constant-current mode with only the battery connected unless the voltage is raised to 4.95 volts which is higher than recommended for NiMh chemistry. Replacing the battery with a resistor, 82 ohms triggers constant-current mode below 54 mA but above that 56 mA and higher the power supply reverts to constant voltage mode.
Hi. Did you solve this problem somehow? My issue is a "little bit" different charging of car battery 60 Ah with 1/10C. I set 5 A and charging battery but when voltage rise to some x level it switch to CV mode and this disturbing. Does elder models like 6017, 8412 has same situation? Or it just some comparator inside and how to fix it or it is impossible?
I have a 3205C and 6005 but the logic of these new model number is truly baffling. Their other models are based on the voltage and current yet, instead of calling this a 3205D, they go with... 1601???? Then the 1600 is actually 16 volt so it makes half sense but 10 amp so it should be a 1610... the 1602 is 60v 3 amp...
the model number baffled me as well..
Btw, did you do a negative load step test? I mean like 100% -> 10% load? This is when many power supplies will overshoot the voltage.
I love you voice it's very good🔥
thank you!
Have you measured the temperature inside after running for some time at high load? It be interesting to see how effective the passive cooling is, especially when stacked.
Also since dual supply can be quite useful, it would be nice if there was some way to link two of them. One being the master, so they can at least be switched on and off at the same time. Even better if you run them in series or parallel (one of the main features of real dual PSUs), you only set the voltage/current on one. While we are at that, make the cases stack well (with special shaped feet or spacers that connect them relatively rigidly to each other).
I've been telling them it would be nice to have a serial port with a simple command protocol since they've sent me the first power supply years ago. Then the user could add a bluetooth module or an additional controller and do interesting stuff like what you mentioned above. But this is their budget power supply line and they have another line which is more expensive with functions like serial interface and data logging and they probably don't want the budget line to eat the market of the more advanced one.
Any chance you could review this way Yihua 3005D?
There are also GVDA, IVYTECH, similar to this power supplies.
Anyway, I'm was just wondering, maybe you have a subscriber or a friend that has one and would send in for a review. But it's not necessary, I'll likely just choose the unit from this video, since you did such a great review of it.
Thank you. Best.
nice review
Thanks for sharing :-)
I bet it would be a pretty simple board to order from somewhere (*cough*JLCPCB*cough*) to make those banana jacks "fit" with some slight modification to the case.
you're right it should be possible 👍
Would you think the 60V version would be as nice? I need to test up to 58.6v.
I would think that if it's from the same series starting with NPS it should have a similar construction. I could ask the manufacturer and get back to you.
@@voltlog so should we buy 60v version? what you think
Are you sure it doesn't have PFC? Are you able to make a rough power factor measurement or two please?
Hi I have the Gopher 1600 is there any way when I said the push knob to course they will stay there it keeps reversing back to fine after a few seconds is there any way of keeping it on horse all the time when the power supply is turned on thanks very much
Great videos
I've commented on this video 5 months ago and got my answer quite well, but before i now finally buy this supply, I must ask one last thing... How bad is the voltage drift as the supply gets hotter? My cps-3205 has a drift of 0.6v (over the set voltage) at full load due to heat.
The only thing I don't really like about this power supply is that the buttons are hard to push. I have to hold onto the case to press buttons so that it doesn't slide.
I agree, it could be nicer with softer buttons but then, you would have the issue of accidentally pressing them because they are so close to each other..
It is a good PSU, I agree. One thing I don't like about it is the LED displays. They should have used a filter glass on them to increase contrast.
I stuck red gel film from a stage light over the display which works quite well.
They do have a bit of a film from the front panel cover, it does help a bit but not as good as a proper filter. In any case that's a simple mod the user can do.
@@Steve_Coates How does red film work on green displays?
@@borayurt66 Mine has a red display, colour matched films seem to work best
Hi just wondering if this unit could be used as a power supply for HiFi components running 9 - 12volts as ripple seems very low on this product. As checking other cheap linear designs they seem to be all rated 13.8v which I think would put too much stress on some components of my dacs and pre amps.
Can you tell me how to lock the unit into either CC or CV, it seems to choose for itself & is not locked into either.
Is it good for repairs of laptops, phones, lab and communication equipments. So technicians can they use it.
It is possible to add voltage sense terminals to this power supply ? Something like the circuit in "The Art of Electronics, The X Chapters" on page 454.?
Sorry something went wrong with the typing again I have the 1600 when I push for course it only stays on for a few seconds is there anyway to keep course on for as long as I want or there’s a power supply always revert back to fine after a few seconds on the display
Nice video. I have first version. Can you suggest a budget PS with dual rail tracking output for amplifier work? Thanks
I do not own any dual rail tracking output supply but I would imagine they are out of the budget category.
Will the higher powered gophert power supplies also have these updates? or only the 32v 5A ones?
I hope it comes on banggood soon... this little thing is awesome... although, is the calibration procedure the same for this unit compared to the normal cps model?
should be the same calibration procedure and I would have to ask the manufacturer regarding the higher powered version.
@@voltlog Coolness, thanks for the response!
Gophert? The Chinese sure choose strange brand names. Makes it easy to spot the junk!
Awwe com'on, go fer et, ya noaw ya-oon tou
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It sounds like it came from some back water town in Alabama, in my opinion.
😂
...... Good name for a Gopher ! ? ?
( I had a Turtle named Myrtle as a kid)
Hello. Who is the manufacturer of Gophert's power supplys? I need to purchase 3-4pcs of overlay stickers for CPS-6011 model. Anybody can help me?
Думаю о покупке такого зверя или получше. Нужен для заряда авто акб. Сейчас есть его младший брат 3205, выставляешь максимальный ток 5А (хотя нужно 6А для 60 Ач) по достижении определенного напряжения х на акб он из режима CC сам переходит в CV ( а мне нужно чтобы он продолжал заряжать акб постоянным током 1/10 ёмкости акб до напряжения 14,8 В). Можете пояснить алгоритм формулу работы этого механизма? Поможет ли более мощный лбп держать ток и не переключаться в режим CV? Или я пытаюсь Ома обмануть? (If Google will fail, i can translate into English, just say)
does it show both current and voltage readings at same time
Rui Deng DSP5015 (non communication model), 53V DC input fed by a toroidal transformer, 4x6300uF smoothing caps after rectification. 60mV p-p AC ripple @ 12V 15A (max) load.
thanks for the feedback!
Nice analysis, it got me started so I built an alternate front panel for this thing.
It's got a 3.2" color touch LCD and a bunch of features to improve usability, accuracy, and safety. There are pictures and design files on Thingverse at www.thingiverse.com/thing:4599959
My nps 1601, show in display UECL CECL
Can you series connect your two Gopherts as a non trackng positive and negative supply? If you can I might buy another COS3295 to go with the one I have. Would this be a good choice?
You can connect these in series or parallel.
They don’t have three terminals. Does that matter? Maybe you can test one day and show results for opamp use? 😀
did anyone see this power supply in Europe? delivered from Poland/Czech, buying it from china and paying vat is a pain
That cap - you mean made by Samxon ;) (whoever they are)
Samxon capacitors are of very good quality.
Not that I am some kind of reference but I haven't seen failed Samxon capacitors so far. I don't think they are the lowest quality, I think they are among the best coming from China, in fact you can even purchase them from European distributors and they have nice datasheets.
@@douro20 No way they are crap!
Capacitors have become much less of a problem nowadays. Unfortunately, because I got a lot of broken stuff for free, that was easily fixable ;) .
That looks nice but I bought the 1KW PSU by GOPHERT CPS-6017 0-60V 0-17A, I just waiting for the arrival of two I bought. ::evil grin::
One work comes to mind "beefy"
Damn! Now I'm just waiting for the 1.21 GW version to be made. lol
Possibly another failed PSU, it's my rate.
I've use this PSU for certain amount of time. At first, look basic but good. But with time, voltage regulation fail, can't give you a correct voltage. And isn't calibration problem.
Does Gophert have a website? It used to be www.gophertc.com/, but it is no longer there.
We have to be careful with Banggood. They don't refund the full purchase price if the good is defective. From recent experience, they refunded me $45 out of $68 for a defective power supply I received. On top of it, they prevented me from doing a review! Buying expensive stuff is a bit risky.
Buy from banggood no matter the cost, pay with paypal, get a full refund every time something goes wrong 👍
@@voltlog Tx for very good advice. I agree with Claude but not a bit risky , very risky. Bang good and Ali express are on the seller side and you get stuck with chinese quality problems. This encourages their sellers to ship again and again this poor quality. I encounter quality issues with Chinese electronics every time, I order. Just buy cheap you receive the same quality as the expensive items.
Read an extensive test on this power supply:
chinese-electronics-products-tested.blogspot.com/p/nps-1601-power-supply-tested.html
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Guys, has anyone figured out the calibration procedure? I tried following VL's procedure for 3205, but it seems only the first step is the same, and there's nothing in online manuals I could find.