Basket Case 2004 Yamaha R1 Rebuild - Part 7 - Setting the Valves
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Welcome Back!
In this new series I will be starting to rebuild my 2004 Yamaha R1 that came to me as a basket case. The goal for this series is to attempt to rebuild it as originally as possible for a little as possible. Some shortcuts will be made.
In this 7th video we will be setting the valve lash for the first time.
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probably the best video on RUclips explaining the valve adjustment process
Excellent video, I've got an fz1 with the same engine so it's super cool to learn more about the whole process.
Keep cranking out these videos. Glad to see a garage re build like this. Continues to give me confidence!
Will do, i already have the rest of this engine rebuild finished, just need to edit it..
what if you mix up the valves and buckets?
As soon as I started thinking I understand and I’ve got it figured out, you popped in with that 191 on the last intake cylinder and I thought I completely lost it untill you corrected yourself 😂 nice vid man how often should valves be checked?
Yamaha says 26600 mi (42000 km) for the first check. If anything needs to be done will largely depend on how hard its been ridden usually. Also of you take the head apart or off you have to do it. Yeah.. the math got ahead of me on that one 😅
Great video this way seems a bit easier then doing it on the bike
Definitely!
Bravo fatto alla Paesana. Hahahahahaha ma cmq va bene dai x essere un neofita!!!...
Do you have to get the head resurfaced appreciate your videos bro !
It your head was warped or overheated I would. this one was flat so I did not need to.
How u taking the measurements with Cylinder TDC ? Ur vids has a lot of missing info sir !!!!
The tdc mark on the camshaft? Why would you need to measure it. Start at one, and keep rotate 90 degrees. Until they are all done. As I mentions in the video it's not the final measurement. It will change once the head goes on and is torqued down. This head no shims in it so I was just getting it close so I can actually measure them once it's torqued down in a later video.
Were you rotating the cams for each cylinder between edits? Or do you just set TDC on a certain cylinder and measure all the way through? I'd imagine you'd have to rotate but want to double check. If you were rotating, how were you gauging if you rotated it 180 degrees (or whatever Yamaha calls for on this specific engine)?
Yes, i was, it took too long to not edit it out. Also on this video i was just mocking it up to get rough measurement for the shims since this head did not have any in it when i recieved it. If you are just mocking the head up like this for rough measurements there is only the timing mark for cylinder 1, which is tdc. From there i just rotated it about 180 to the next cylinder.
When the engine is together and its timed there are marks on the trigger wheel that you can use to do it that align with the crank halves. You cant take final measurements with the head off, because it all moves some when it gets torqued down. But this was just for the convenience of filming and to make sure i had enough shims, or if i needed to order some.
How did you rotate the cams with the caps still torqued? Did you force them to rotate over with a tool on the sprockets?
With the wholes in the sprockets and the case half.
Thanks DeWoody! Also, its normal for the valves to be open on the other side when the cam caps are all torqued down to check clearance right? Thanks! Its pretty hard to rotate by hand so I just loosened to bolts to check the other valves
@@frankiemarchese2978 it should rotate freely, but there is a lot of reticence when it opens a valve, and most of the time it is so it's hard to tell. But they should still turn with the caps torqued down. It might just be harder
Es 11-20 y escape 21-25 ? o escape es 20-30?
The intake is 11-20 exhaust is 21-25
Daaamn bro this bike has 5valve per cylinder 😨
Lots of fun!
20 valve bikes are common 24 valve are more rear like in the classic Fz750 Yamaha’s