DIY 18650 battery charger discharging station (ZB2L3 battery capacity tester + TP4056)
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- Опубликовано: 24 май 2019
- In this tutorial I am going to make a charging discharging station for 18650 li-ion batteries using TP4056 battery charger & capacity testers. Using this device, you can measure actual battery capacity of your Old/New 18650 batteries. For this project you need to find following materials.
Parts required:
1) TP4056 charging board - bit.ly/2J4bimJ
2) ZB2L3 Battery Capacity Meter Tester For 18650 li-ion - bit.ly/2HCS9ph
3) 18650 battery case 4x - bit.ly/2VRYkJY
4) On/Off Switch - bit.ly/2QoRCKr
5) 5v 3A power adapter - bit.ly/2HSE85I
6) Wires
7) Acrylic Sheet 3mm
Thank you.
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Tags: 18650 18650 battery charging station charging 18650discarging 18650 discharging station lithium batteryli-ion battery li ion li-ion lithium laptop batterybattery charging old laptop battery testing18650 battery testing 18650 charger lithium cell
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Хобби
Just completed mine and working great.
Just 1 modification I suggest, instead of solid core cable on charging board, keep using the stranded cable used on rest of parts.
Nice vid, well done, you made it easy to follow, big thumbs up.
Nice project
CRACKKKKKK !!! Impecable
you can use RX24 10W 7.5 Ohm resistors mounted on the cooling radiator (5W I did not find).
Show de bola! Parabéns!
buena idea felicidades
Just a small point the voltage (V) needs to be right, the 'thing will only draw as much current (I) as it needs so could be be a giga watt
if you have that in a plug pack etc! :)
Good video, but although old it has an error that should be pointed out and I think you realized that as the final of the video you did one cell at a time. YOu can only do one battery with that device at a time. While you "could" do multiple batteries, they have to be the exact or close to the same mAh if not the lowest battery will charge first, then heat up as more power is added till the next battery is charged. That is evident in the video when you checked the voltage of the top batteries, one was 4.21V and I believe the other was closer to 4.25V, which is higher than the safe charging cutoff.
good 👌
thanks
Muito bom parabéns top
Hi Thanks for this video.I mounted a circuit similar 3 chargers and 1 tester nad my problem is that on the tester even it discharges ,during discharges A and Ah are = 0 .Any Idea what is wrong?
Rgds
Excelent.
Luis E. P. R Thank you
Very Good
..👍👍👬👬👬👍👍
Best one yet most simple. Now how would I make it so all 4 bays can charge? Add two more
Charger birds and
Jump the positive and negative wires from discharge leads and add a switch to keep them disconnected while one is doing the other?
Take 4 TP4056 and set them parallel, I use and old PC power supply to charge with it 16 cells (power supply has 5V 17A)
Hello. I understand that this module ZB2L3 is to discharge a battery up to a certain voltage V1 but what I do not know is if with this same module you can charge up to a certain voltage V2 that can also be defined on the screen.
Can you help me?
Brilliant can i use cpu 5volts.to supply the tp 4050 and the capacity tester?
Cómo sabes si una celda no anda bien porque son dos módulos para cuatro baterías. Por otro lado muy interesante video.
Подскажите пожалуйста, как понять нужную отсечку. Хочу тестировать nicd аккумы 1.2v. какой ток отсечки надо выставить чтобы получить верную емкость? При двух подключенных комплектных конденсаторах 5w 7.5¢j, нагрузку пишет 0.317a
hello congratulations excellent video is it possible to have a diagram of your perfect one I would like to develop for 12 batteries
I have a question/need advice for a lil project ive been doing..
So i'm really into solar lights for some reason so I tend to have a decent amount of them, not crappy ones but actual decent/bright ones for yard illumination. Well I recently got into modifying them with TP4056 boards (They use 18650s or 14500s) so I can manually charge them during the winter as they wont do so well on their own with the cold and lack of sun etc. The first one I did was a big 1000 Lumen light that I have at the front door with a 22 Gauge wire and a USB cable connected to it so I can charge/power the light from inside instead of outside like I was doing until recently (Light was on the side of the house till I moved it for easier access and better use). That's the only one ive modified so far as its the largest, the others are mere 5 Lumens idle 100 Lumens active (All lights are motion activated). Anyway back on track, so as I previously stated i'm currently using 22 Gauge wire to do all the modifications but I was wondering if 20 Gauge would be more appropriate.
Another question I have is, since the TP4056 boards are for single Cell use does this mean I cant use a single board with say 2-4 Cells? and if that's the case what board could I use for such situations? All lights use a single 18650 (The big light) or a single 14500 but I would like to be able to use 2 batteries to further lengthen their run times during the winter.
Help with this would be appreciated
For your second question while you can technically use the TP4056 for multiple cells provided they’re wired in parallel you probably don’t won’t to do that because it will charge it very slowly. A better solution would be the use a 3amp 1S BMS, this will act very similar to the TP4056 except your going to need either a 4.2v power supply or use a buck boost converter to charge to the correct voltage.
@@isaacmyers1676 Thanks, its long been answered/put into practice though lol
Creo que no te costaria nada poner un pequeño Esquema.
SUPER SUPER SUPER SUPER SUPER SUPER SUPER SUPER
Excelent
Jahangir tv Thank you
@@LahisTechLT wellcom sir
Sir 718650 battery cahargar project to add 30volt to 10 amp meter dc volt and amp meter
Plz 1 video........
@@FoodsecretsJahangir I am not clear about what you asking?
hi Lahis....thanks for the video...my question is this...the module TP4056 is a 5v 1amp module...does this mean i cannot use my 3amp or 5amp cellphone charger?
That means the USB charger has to spec minimum 1A (1000 mA). ELI5 solution: Think wall charger as bridge, and the device you are loading as truck. Bridge can be rated for higher loads, but if truck exceeds the bridge load limit, it's a no no.
Charger has usually fixed voltage and is able to GIVE anywhere from 0 to rated current.
Device TAKES x amount of current it uses at the voltage it runs, and charger has to be able to provide the devices max current consumption at highest load.
Nice volbo
I don't understand, does the charging function only have 2 slots and 2 more slots for draining?
Yes, two slots next to the charging boards for charge only. The other two slots nearest the capacity boards are capacity only.
Could you provide an schematics please. Great work.
I do not know about the charger modules - but I can help with the discharger modules:-
On the back of the board it shows you the connections to make for the discharger. you have the two OUTER connection on the blue block to wire to the resistors and the inner two connect to the cell holder to be discharged.
You can power the unit from either 5v connected under the board (two solder pads fairly near the board) OR you can plug in a micro USB lead.
i have some 18650 cells that have different discharge cut-off like 3.5v some 3.0v was it a good thing those cells were able to reach 3.0v?
3.0v is too low, that is the absolute minimum and the life of the battery will be degraded. 18650's should be stored at 3.7-3.8v
John Michael Stock yes but most of my bms allows discharging up to 3.0v. cant find a good bms with proper documentarion in my country such as over charge and over discharge limit
what AWG size is this wire?
Instead of that two "5w 7k5 ohm load resistor" can I use alternative loads? Like bulb/motor/anything else which drinks so much energy as load?
Of course but... No more than 3 amps...
@@garciarj61 thanks
2 holder for battery charging and another 2 holder for capacity testing, am I right ?
I using same tester but ı have 2000 mah 18650 when i test on 3.0 i get around 2600-2700 mah results. When Try to test 3.60 i get around 1000 mah
Good 🇮🇳👍👍 Kuki
La parte que no entiendo es que el modulo de descarga continua mandando carga los modulos de carga
Is this setup way cheaper than the famous liitokaya brand?
Hola. Entiendo que este modulo es para descargar una batería hasta un cierto voltaje V1 pero lo que no sé es si con este mismo modulo se puede cargar hasta un cierto voltaje V2 que también se puede definir en la pantalla.
¿Me puede ayudar?
Esos dos modulos no son para cargar . Se diseño solo para ejecutar descargas....
it's should drain one battery at the time for more correct battery capacity
I mean you has two battery capacity tester, why test 2 battery capacity at the same time
I mean, it's for test capacity right???
Edit : owh sorry, I was wrong, another 2 battery for charge, and 2 battery slot for capacity tester, ok sorry for My chat before :3
have a nice day
Ciao Lahis Tech. Davvero complimenti. Iscrizione e Like fatti. Come fai a saldare così brillantemente? Tocchi appena e subito la saldatura è fatta ! Io faccio una fatica... :-( e non sempre ci riesco a fare la saldatura. Compro le punte nuove e dopo pochissimo si 'anneriscono', al punto di non saldare nemmeno quel poco che riuscivo a fare. Posso, per favore, porti 4 domande?
1) Che punte usi e 2) come le pulisci?
3) Che filo di stagno usi?
4) Che temperatura tieni il saldatore?
Spero davvero in una tua cortese e competente risposta. Buone cose... Antony
can you supply a wiring schematic please
Please I want to learn under you to realise my diy power storage skills. How do I contact you
how thick is the cable you use please?
nice work!
THANKS, I can't remember the thickness of that cable. It should be capable of carrying atleast upto 3Amps.
hmm.. Looks 20 or perhaps 18 Gauge imo..
Do you need to Set the low voltage cut off every time ( USB disconnected )
Depends - some of these boards will automatically select a sensbile value, based on the initial cell voltage - another "clone brand" which looks almost identical has a less ideal automatic setting. In both cases though, for the most part you can just insert the cell and press the left hand most button and it will do the job ok.
On a typical lithium cell, one model wants to typically discharge to 2.5v on its default setting, another only to 3.0v. In both cases it works ok, BUT depending on the cell chemistry (phophate, ion, graphene) 2.5v may be a better "true zero" than 3v. You can manually adjust but these device will still reset automatically when you stick in a new cell. It's actually a little annoying when you want to process a batch of them.
If you are a little bit technically minded and have a basic understanding of electronics, there is a little "cheat" system you can use:-
You can fit a changeover switch to the battery holder which connects the positive of the board to the CELL or to a REFERENCE VOLTAGE which you can set with something as simple as a 3A DC>DC buck converter running from the 5v - Mine is usually set to 3.5V (newly charged and slightly rested lithium phosphate)
Set it to whatever voltage you want - in my case 3.5v (I am discharging Lithium Phosphate Cells) - it will then discharge them to 2.5V. If I let the unit select its own voltage, it can be as little as 1.5v if the cell is around 3.3v (rested overnight) (too low) and if they have just come of the charger, it can set them to 3v (a little high).
So, I use a toggle switch to flip to "reference voltage" press left most button to start it off - and then move toggle to connect discharger to cell.
To stop the unit getting confused as you flip the toggle switch (brief loss of power), connect a 10v (or higher) 1000uF (or bigger) capacitor to the common of the switch and ground. This allows for a seemless switchover.
Set off each module and close the switch one at a time - do not have multiple units ALL trying to discharge the reference power supply!
Sorry for a long winded answer BUT it depends on the model you get AND there is a solution anyway! :)
@@marcteigh8633 whoa 😱
I just wanted to build a
1S LiHv / LiPo discharger
( 3,7 - 3,8 Volt )
I think u get the most of what you wrote..
But I think I need to read it again and maybe use Google translator Bc I'm native German..
Thanks for your reply !
I dint get 5w 7.5ohms resistor what can I use for aternative resistor
It would help if you said what you DID get (if anything) or have also got kicking around.
If you are discharging a single lithium cell that could be as high as 4.4v (the 3.85 cells fully charged), and noting the 3A maximum limit of the module, then your LOWEST resistor value would be approx 1.5 Ohms (or two 3.3 Ohm resistors in parallel OR two 0.82 Ohms in series). The odd values given are because these are the "standard or preferred" values which are easier to get than 3 Ohm and 0.75 Ohm.
Any values HIGHER than the above would also be fine too.
To work values out for yourself, divide 4.4v (if using the 3.85v cells), or 4.2 (normal Li-ion) or 3.7v (Lithium phosphate) by the current you want to draw in amps (maximum 3A on this board). This will give you the LOWEST resistor value you can use.
eg: You want to discharge at about 1.5A with a 4.2v cells. So Resistance = Voltage divided by Current. R = 4.2 / 1.5 = 2.8 Ohms. A very close "preferred value" is 2.7 Ohms which would work well.
You need to be aware though that the resistors are burning off the power as HEAT and so you need to make sure the resistor is cable of handling the power. You can work out the wattage by multiplying the AMPS by the VOLTS - so 1.5A multiplied by 4.2V = 6.3 Watts - so ideally get a 10 Watt rated resistor - or even a 25W rated one. A single 5W resistor will get VERY hot if overdriven to 6.3 Watts.
I realise this is an old post - but it might be a useful reference for other too.
shouldnt each battery cell get their own charger/ discharging module?
2 slots for charge. anther 2 for discharge
@@LahisTechLT 1 module for 2 batteries? How did you estimate capacity of 1 battery when two batteries are connected to the module?
@@ArunG273 Correcto el proyecto es mal planteado jajaja pense que solo yo lo note
Or 5w 2x8 Ohm
whether to sell the product 1 package is just a raft
if the resistor is 1 is it OK? What is the difference between resistor 1 and 2?
rate of discharge will improve if the resistance is higher. You should connect two of these resistors or more, one is not enough to draw the current, Not: these two resistors get super hot while batteries on discharge.
@@LahisTechLT Back to front. Rate of discharge will improve is the resistance is lower, not higher.
Bisa di cut off sampai 0 - 0.9 volt?
Are you showing very fast how to wire contact don't know. IMAX B6 balance charger how to check 18650 mah please
How to use on on switch name plz
Bang klo pas di start err 3 terus itu knp ya
Is it normal that resistors get too hot during discharge
Yup, that's normal. Some times it reaches upto boiling hot temperature, but the cermaic resistors could handle higher temperature
@@LahisTechLT thanks 😁
@@LahisTechLT can I add more of these resistors to increase the discharge rate?
@@thedarthlord7724 yeah but it comes with only resistors, which is recommended.
yes, it is normal. use ceramic resistors of higher rating instead, and you will not have heat problem. use 10w or 20w are the best, they barely get hot during my tests.
Why need to put 2 Resistor?
The resistors come with the board from ebay, they are used for discharge test through a known value.
2 x 5W give more options than a single one.
If discharging a single cell, you can have them both in series and discharge at around 1A, if you want a slower discharge, you can use ONE resistor to give you a discharge current of 500mA (better for smaller cells), if wanting a VERY low discharge, you can place them both in series.
You can also use both in series to allow a discharge of 3 cells in series (4 if lithium phosphate) (which will burn off around 10 watts.
In short, it gives you some flexibility :)
@@marcteigh8633 why use discharge circuit ?
ITS CIRCUIT IS WRONG IG IT DOSENT WORKS FOR ME
This will never work correctly with this wiring setup! This wiring configuration is trying to charge the batteries at the same time it's trying to discharge the batteries for checking the capacity, so you'll never get an accurate reading.
With those charging modules, you can charge all the multiple batteries at the same time, but like one person already mentioned, all the batteries have to be able to take the exact same amount of charge, otherwise you risk overcharging and heating up the lower batteries. Those charging modules are designed to charge only one battery at a time, and it will stop charging once that one battery is fully charged.
The discharge/capacity check modules are designed to only discharge/capacity check only one battery at a time. Testing more than one battery at the same time will give incorrect results.
The only way this idea can work is if you have 4 charging modules (one for each battery) and 4 discharging/capacity checking modules (one for each battery).
To prevent the charging and discharging modules from fighting each other there should be 4 on/off toggle switches between the charging modules and the battery connections, so as to be able to stop charging the batteries while doing the discharge/capacity check.
You will find if you test the same battery twice after charging it to 4.2 v and set the min drop to 3v you will get different capacity values sometimes with a big difference in values. so these are rubbish. wasted all my time.
yes . haha
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Parah solderan nya kaya ee ayam
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confusing ....
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