Gosh this takes me back years ago I was working on a new building going up in Toronto. One of the carpenters came to me asking me to add a cord to his skill saw. He cut his cord off it and wanted to do more or less the same thing as what you are doing now. He gave me an old cord they used on the job that was beaten up at the ends but was still good for something small like this. I was the young apprentice electrician on that job. It was a bit slow the time he asked me to do this and he was helping me out when I needed to get some work done in some walls he was setting up. So I asked one of my journeyman for help to show me how this was done and more or less the same thing. After that the carpenter everyday worked faster and thanked me for helping him out but I felt like it was the things people did on jobs. You look after each other and help each other out, just to make life that much easier on the job. The place no one wants to be but you are their to make it by in life.
Per your instructions, I added a 12 guage 40' cord to my worm drive. In retrospect, it seems obvious to do so. Now my knotted extension cord doesn't get caught on rafters or come loose & unplug. It's also funny when guys try to "borrow" my extension cord then discover it's the power cord to my worm drive. The only change was I installed a red one to match the handles. This is a game changer! I've learned a lot from your videos. I also never thought to plunge cut into a rafter edge when the pitch won't allow me to utilize the rafter hook. Thank you, sir.
The “Crochet method” of cord management adds a level of time savings that I’ve never seen by any other approach (over-under included)… with each loop, you are handling two lengths of cord! That is a welcome factor when managing a 50’ cord.
I spent some time in the USAF repairing aircraft communications systems. I keep a soldering iron in my tool box with a tin of flux. Whenever I make any upgrades, similar to what you demonstrated today, I tin the ends of the wire. No fray. Solid connection. I appreciate your skill and moxie. Thank you.
A little safety tip: When working on corded electrical equipment, always keep the plug in sight and preferably within arm's reach while you're working so nobody else can plug it in by mistake.
So I did a twenty-five foot cord on my little dewalt sidewinder after your first video. I've been on the hunt for an old seventy seven. It like to find a made in the usa model. Its my shop saw. I do hvac in pa so on my service truck i carry a small 20v dewalt. Thats all i need on the road. But for the shop I like to have corded tools. I do appreciate the knowledge you've shared over the last 2years, I've learned some great production tips that I've had the pleasure to share with others.... giving you folks the credit of course.
@@rightlanehog3151 my old man picked up his for 15 bucks. I just did a once over on it today. It was used as a masonry saw, so it's been used and abused, but it still works fine.
@@rightlanehog3151 it needs a few bits and pieces, like i can't get the pivot screw out of the casing, so I'll either have to heat it up with a torch or get a new top guard, and it's missing a thumb lock and the handle is being held together by glue and a prayer, but it still works.
I see where you are going and i am glad that works for you. I personally go the other way. My saw has the cord shortened to where the saw can't cut it. I use and extension cord adm tie it off through the handle. Bosch had and elegant system on one of their saws with retention for the socket end of the cord build into the saw. Milwaukee had the twiat lock cords, but i hate to be tied to to something i can't get at any hardware store. All respect for you and your channel. I share your content with my coworkers, you are a master.
Yes.... But, he also says "What for when you make em skookem, make em uber skookem" Columbia University has set to decoding him... I'm sure he has ancient knowledge in there somewhere!
@@timfalardeau9753 He's recycling the Red Green show. If you go back and watch his first video every he says "Keep your stick on the ice" just like Red Green.
@@johnpossum556 I don't know why I didn't know that... No excuse... I used to watch Red Green religiously! Great late night viewing when I was younger...
Scott you are the most honorable man I can say I’ve ever seen. Your honesty and modest approach to imparting your wealth of knowledge has been a genuine model to myself and the members of the trades for decades. You’re a true inspiration and a gift to all of us in your viewership.
I have to say this is a necessity even for use of a circular saw at home! Who wants to grab the extension cord every time you go to use your saw, even in the garage?? Thanks for the tip!
Is that not what you are doing when you have a 50ft cord attached directly to the saw? Another option - leave a 50ft extension cord attached to the saw.
@@kookiethebear To spell it out, the extension cord will either get misplaced, won't always be with the saw, will come unplugged, or even if plugged together "permanently", the plugs will catch on things.
@@kookiethebear That is what I have been doing for 35 years as a roofer/framer. Just tie the ends together and the cord doesn't get separated & the end does not catch on anything anymore than on the end of the saw.
Great video my friend....I've been doing this for 20 years - the first thing after buying a new saw. When I was framing homes full time, we put 100' cords on the saw. We also did this to our screw guns when I hung drywall. Once you do this you'll never go back to extension cords.
One of the first things my dad taught me when i began working for him 20 years ago as a framer was to put a long cord on your saw and daisy chain it thru the handles exactly like you just showed in this vid...... What a trip
An an electrical apprentice I watch and learn from most of your carpentry/tool videos. It’s cumbersome to watch you work on electrical stuff 😂! Keep up the good work!
Had to pause the video several times to make sure you had the white wire on the silver screw and the black wire on the gold screw. My mom taught me how to do that when I was 8 years old. Keep up the good work.
For my dad, First I have seen you. You tell some pretty good things. You teached another ole man a new trick today. I am just an ole guy that does his own work around the house. I have built a shop, deck, remodeled the kitchen and bath, Repaired the sink drain line that leaked and wet down the basement needing to replace the cieling and walls sheetrock, and laying a ceramic tile floor. Just some light work to keep me busy.
I just wrecked a 100 foot 12 gauge extension cord . The Male side is about 40 foot. It's going on my saw perfect timing. As always thanks for the great videos.
Im just getting started in the trades and ever since I started using an old skil hd77 that I picked up, Ive seen a huge increase in my productivity. I need to get around to doing that to mine. Thank you for sharing your lifetime of knowledge. It has really helped me get a leg up in the trades.
To each his own. And with great respect to you and how you do it, I would do mine almost the complete opposite. For most of my career the first thing I would do is cut off the cord close to the handle and install Hubbell twist lock connectors. My extension cords are also set up the same way. I had this set up on all my tools. It was always a pain to have all the cords of each individual tool getting mixed up with all the others. This way, you grab a tool and an extension cord to fit your need, twist lock it together, and away you go. The twist locks work so well that there have been many times I would lower (or raise) my Skil 77 from the roof to the ground and never worry about coming unplugged. Another great vid! Thanks!
I have always done that to my extension cords. I've heard it called a Mariners loop, but I like your verbiage much better, makes more sense in my head and it reminds me of my grandma, she was always doing a lot of crochet stuff. It never dawned on me to run the cord through the handle that fashion that's brilliant! I shall do that henceforth my good sir.
If you solder the ring connector after crimping it, you are guaranteed a great connection, electrically and mechanically. That's how I was trained to do it by my mentor 30 years ago. Nice video!
I'm a stagehand--I deal in cables that have been dragged through mud, beer, and puke for months on end. I urge you to try the over under (search roadie wrap on youtube) . If you get good, its faster than the crochet method. It will never put a bend or kink in the wire, you can also choose to have all your slack at one end rather than the middle. You can pull from the end of the cable not the middle, or even through the whole thing while holding onto the end, and the cable will always pay out flat to the floor. Give it a go...
Agreed, learning about that method was an eye opener for me. I now use it for everything. The most useful part for me is being able to throw the line and have it actually go where you want and not get tangled at all. It's a great method to store any kind of cord or line.
I had a guy chain stitch one of my extension cords. I told him he could keep that cord and buy me a new one... Over/Under is the only way to manage a cable,air hose, extension cord, etc. You can do it other ways but they really don't make as much sense.
I did the same thing recently to revive my old sidewinder Skil 5150. A new 40’ cord made all the difference. Just remember to replace with a heavier gauge than what they installed at the factory. This is a good tip for not just the pros, but us DIYers, too.
I was a little worried about installing the blade after reading a couple of reviews. But it was amazingly easy. Took about 1 minute. Works great ruclips.net/user/postUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c . Cuts easily and is perfect for pocket cuts I needed to make for replacing some old deck boards.
This is one of thoses "why didn"t i think of that" That is so obvious and simple, yet takes an experienced craftsman to show me. I have always dragged around an extension cord with the skillsaw. And in my mind they have become unseperable. ...always making sure the connection is safe, having the connection catch and bump on the workpieces. working with super sketchy extension cords on job sites, draging a specially dedicated extension cord with me to avoid sketchiness and have a distance from the powerplug and so on. wow. this has been an eye opener. thank you so much. I love all your tips and the knowledge that is based on years and years of experience, not on an extensive Google and Wikipedia search -like a lot of self proclaimed youtube "experts" have. Changing my cord first thing tomorrow. Thank you!
Works for me also Scott. For 30 years I have been doing the same thing. Although I do not roll my chord the same way. I will send a photo of how I like to store my saw with the chord rolled up. Great video as usual.
We stopped using wired skilsaw, we switched over to battery powerd including the 60v dewalt circular saw. I love it, they are lighter, no more stringing out power cords, cutting cords, dealing with shorts(happens all the time because Eugene OR) and 2 batteries last all day but im a Concrete Carpenter.
Love watching your channel because it reminds me of home. My whole family are carpenters and farmers and everything you show and talk about I grew up with and still do myself.
Watched this over a year ago. I have a cement mixer that runs off a 1/3 hp electric motor. It lived outside for about 20 years and the motor failed. I replaced the motor and had to add a power cord. I remembered this video so instead of the 10 ft cord that came with it I installed a 25 ft cord. First time I used it this past summer the cord was exactly the length I needed. What a simple and great idea.
Scott thanks to your videos on chain stitching and a buddy I use a chain stitch every day absolutely love it and will never use any other method to clean up cordage of wires or anything than can be rolled up thanks again
I can not recall a time I have ever used a skill saw without an extension cord. This is a great modification that I will definitely use!! Thanks Scott!
A tip on putting screws back in plastic or any material that is using a thread cutting screw is to put it in the hole and turn it out until you feel the screw fall into the original threads before tightening it. This makes it follow the the threads cut on the first installation and reduces the chances that it will cut new threads could weaken the connection.
I love it. Especially how you wrap (tangle) the cord. My dad taught me that method many years ago. I store all my cords like that. It was interesting to see yo start it from the ends. Dad and I start from the middle. We put a zip tie or electrical tape on the center of the cord for fast reference. Also if we only need 10' of a 50' cord we don't have to undo the whole thing. Very nice!
Scott, this reminded me of working in a rental shop. There, the policy was that when we got a new electric tool we'd chop the supplied cord to about 12" and throw a plug on it. The rationale was that with something like a circular saw, belt sander or whatever, the customer was likely to cut through a longer cord, and us making it short enough to prevent that was a maintenance time saver for us. Plus, we were bound to replace the plug anyway, as the factory plugs were much less likely to stand up to abuse that the heavier ones we put on. It prevented people from winding a long cord so tightly around the tool that it defeated the anti-strain relief at the tool end. It also saved the customer the cost of us having to replace an entire cord. Most customers, whether newbie weekend warriors or contractors, have their own extension cords, and the idea was that they could cut through those to their hearts' content. I remember once we had a brand new Bosch breaker (electric jackhammer) that we hadn't had time to shorten the cord on. Came back from the first rental with the cord (about 10 foot or so) wrapped neatly around the top of the tool. On inspection it turned out the guy had managed to cut the cord nearly in half about 12" out, which was no mean feat considering that that was still close to two feet from the business end of the tool. Think he was charged 5 bucks for the plug (including labour) which was decent, as if the company wanted to be jerks about it they could have (according to the fine print on the back of the rental form that nobody reads - but should) been charged $150 or so for a new "genuine" Bosch cord. So now you know why your rental tool may have a frustratingly short cord. It's because of other people that we can't have nice things. Thanks for sharing your work, tips, wisdom and friendship. All the best in 2019.
I see why you had a short cord for rental tools but a plug 1 foot from the tool is something I can't stand, especially on a tool used on lumber. Trying to cut a sheet of plywood with a skil saw only to have the plug immediately catch on the edge of the sheet is frustrating. Yes I could hold the plug up till it gets past the edge, but I'd rather concentrate on cutting not cord management.
I have cut the cord off a breaker about a foot from the tool when I let the tool fall over and the cord was caught against the case as it landed, cut the cord as clean as it would using shears.
@@michaelhobbs8082 That's true too. But if the customer wrecked a rented extension cord they bought it. We also rented shop-built extensions for 220 volt service with either stove or dryer plugs for use in rough-in construction sites. In any case, they were checked before being accepted for return. You would not believe the lengths people will go to to conceal damage they have done to equipment. The short cord eliminates the old wrap the thing up tight to hide the damage game, and saved us time doing returns and replacing the original cords, which would mean taking the tool apart. It boils down to cost-benefit. If the rental company has to spend time replacing long cords on tools after say a half dozen rentals, that costs the company money, mostly labour, which then gets passed on to the consumer. Another part is presentation - what would you think if you went to rent a tool only to see a conveniently long cord with scabby electrical tape repairs all over it? Then there's liability if a scabby repair fails. It's not perfect, but in the rental business, short cords rule. For my own tools? Take Scott's advice - the fewer plugs the better (and I liked how he upped the gauge to compensate for the length of the conductor).
I appreciate that you emphasize that this works best for you. I agree with what you presented about adding a longer cord to your saw and your method of keeping it in your tool box. I can see where it is something others might want to try. Others may disagree but in you humble way you stress that this works for you. Thank you.
This is fantastic. One improvement I’ve made to this is to use a NEMA L15 locking plug on a short whip dangling off the saw, male end, and make the long cord a female locking end. They twist together and head up a ladder no problem. Have this setup on my worm drive and sawzall. Bonus: keeps the dummies away from your most dangerous tools and they’re easier to get back from a pawn shop if stolen.
Thanks to you and this great idea I now have a reciprocating saw, random orbital sander, vacuum and circular saw with my preference of power cord on each instead my stable full of extension cords and splitters. Long gone is my habit of tying and taping connections before each day. Great advice. Wonderful channel. Love these videos as much as any others y’all have put out there for guys like me.
after one of your earlier videos where you mentioned this, i went out to my shop that day and did mine. i had on old, heavy-duty extension cord that i hardly ever used. so i cut off the female end, wired it up; and now i have a 50 ft. cord on my circular saw. it's awesome not having to drag out an extension cord every time i wanna use it for something out in the yard. i can just plug it into the external outlet on my shop and go to work. i'm also thinking of doing this on my big drill. and i store mine the same way. i use the "daisy chain" method for the cord. it never gets tangled, it never gets that awful twist in the cord that you see when people do that whole "hand-to-elbow" wrap. it definitely saves the cord and doesn't cause NEAR as much strain (if any at all) on it.
Part of the reason why I love RUclips channels like this: Getting exposed to more ideas on how to tackle common problems than what you might see in your own home town. I've almost never seen a contractor swap the factory cable for a more useful length, but I really don't know why this isn't the norm. (This seems like such a practical and sensible thing that I don't know why they don't ship from the factory with a short lead in the box, but expect the buyer to finish wiring it themselves to their own specification.) The one contractor I've seen and remember having swapped his cables has gone kind of the opposite with his tools - He replaces the factory lead with an even shorter one, but with a neat locking plug instead of the standard friction plug. He then uses extension cords with the mate to the locking plug connector, and can quickly switch the length of the cord to the job needed, or swap between tools at his work site with a single cord. (And a cord that stays firmly attached to the tool till he unscrews the locking collar.) Getting a cut in a cable 6 inches from the tool is usually pretty hard to do, but if someone shears your extension cable you can just swap out for another from your kit box and carry on, rather than having a tool out of action till you rip it apart to rewire it completely. I sadly have no idea what fitting he uses, but it is just large enough that you can still plug most standard 3 prong north american cords into the extension cord without them needing to have the locking collar on them. If someone happens to know a maker of them, I would love to find a source for my own gear.
Had a contractor I worked for always used 100ft extension cords . Always have been a fan of the longer cords on my saw since and that was back in the 80's
I have lernd that it is good practice to have the ground lead the longest in everything so that it is the last cable to detach it self, for safetys sake. Great video as always 😁👍
I have also been doing this to lots of tools most my life. Specifically items like a battery charger for my boat that needed to be longer to avoid an extension cord and several frequently used saws, etc. I recently bought a red metal cutting circular saw and was amazed it came with a 15-20 ft cord factory.
WJ the Home Builder you can buy the cables with the moulded plug already attached to them in Europe :) my grandfather used to attach those to his tools :)
That’s what I did to make an extended cord on my vintage Sawzall. Bought a high quality USA made all rubber 20ft extension cord and lopped the female end off and installed. Been going great on the job for 15 years now
In 1976 my boss bought a me a worm drive skill saw model 77 since than I have put several 25 foot cords on it due to being crushed, cut in half( can you imagine that) and not using a good enough cord and it got to stiff. You are a lucky man to get to buy a new saw mine will not die, new handle, brushes and it's still going 4 new homes later, decks, roofs, remodel's heck I even flew it to Alaska to do a big remodel for my brother. I feel like tom hanks in the green mile it will be with me for the rest of my life. I guess that's not such of a bad thing after all is it. I'm 60 now and half way done with our retirement home so I guess the skill saw 77 will be passed on to my kids thanks for letting me ramble. love your videos
Long cord on a circ saw is definitely necessary for jobsite use. That said, since I bought Makitas rear handle blade left circ saw, my corded saw has been reassigned to steel and concrete cutting duty. The new cordless saws are finally on par with their corded brethren in terms of power, even more powerful in fact, and you don't have to worry about a cord of any length. The real question is how they will stand up to jobsite abuse. I haven't babied the Makita but it's still pretty green. Mag 77's just run, and run and run. Only 77 I've ever seen that was broken was due to an oil leak and subsequent failure of the worm gear.
We acquired a dual battery Makita skill saw three years ago. Since our type of work is very dynamic, meaning we have quite a wide range of tools that get used here and there, rather than a few tools that receive a ton of use, it hasn't been "abused", so to say, but it _has_ seen more than "weekend warrior" use, and it certainly is holding up pretty well so far. It'll rip 2x4 with about 75% of the capacity of a corded one, which I believe is certainly good enough for it being cordless. In fact, since we mostly work on mobile homes in retirement parks, and the available outlets can be quite weak, sometimes it has _more_ cutting capacity than the corded one.
When ever a cord goes bad I ALWAYS put a longer cord back, maybe not 40 to 60 feet but 25 for sure. Also I use porter cable drills too, they might not be the best but they are pretty good and they are cheap. Thanks Tim.
This is really smart. Looking back at all the years I fought saws unplugging from the extension when I’m climbing through the trusses, cutting roof sheathing, etc 🤦♂️
Excellent upgrade. We do the same, only with 25' We also just cut the end off and use solder-less connectors for the extension piece but separate each one by 2-3'' so we don't end up with a lump in the wire. After the connections are done with never-seize, we slide the 3 pieces of shrink tube over and shrink one at a time, each one longer than the last, then tape. We use a new end like you do, with never-seize of course, so there is only one, so called lump in the wire. I will do it your way from now on, because I forgot about the wire size difference between the new and old or maybe I was lazy about taking the handle apart, lol ! Thanks for the education always.
I like the idea of a long cord on my tools(saws, drills etc.) however you need a lot of cord for all the tools. I have no cord on my tools, just a pigtail and a twist lock plug (6 inches). I have one extension cord which I am able to use on all the tools as I can only use one tool at a time. Works for me.
That does everything except lock. This guy lowers his saw from the rafters by the cord. I think for a framer, it makes sense to have the cord attached securely. FWIW, many of my low amp tools I use at a bench have no cord at all. Just a socket. I keep one 6 foot cord at one bench. I keep one 8 foot cord at the other, because the nearest power outlet is farther away from that one. (I obviously work on much smaller things more often than framers.) So I totally get it. Even without the longer cord, there's also the huge advantage that you don't have to manage the cord when you put the tool away. And one of the best parts is how I can hang my power tools on a pegboard just hand tools. Every tool has its place, and that is worth a little extra time of unplugging and replugging the single cord like an air tool.
@@nickturner2606 Yeah, that would be nice. The ones I use don't lock. If I were a framer, I would have to set down my saw 20 times and hour. Because I don't know how to do it and because I'm way out of shape, lol. I think it would be stressful if "did I lock the cord?" crossed my mind every time I had to let go of the saw in a precarious spot. Like if I had to rest... or if I lost my balance 20 feet above a hard floor.
Saw that so many years ago when I started. I've put a 40' 12/3 on three saws I've had over the years as well as coil it up as you do. Works SO much easier every day.
Most of the carpenters I know have gone cordless. This latest generation of cordless tools are lite and powerful. The 6" circular saws can cut 2x and decking just fine and sticking an extra battery in your tool belt to extend your time up top. There is a place for corded tools on the job site but carrying heavy plugin tools all day is rapidly becoming history. That said I have a corded Makita saw that I use with abrasive blades to cut steel. It is going to get a longer cord in a day ot two. Thanks for the tip.
I actually need to replace my worn out cord on my 77 and saw another video a while back. Awesome to see your video on a topic that is exactly what I need. Gotta change the oil on mine also cuz I have no idea the last time my grandpa did, saw hasnt been used in probably 15 years since he was already retired.
We used to do something similar! Back then I was a Sparkie working on domestic installations. We would have 240V Drills (rather than saws) and the leads were always too short. We would put a long lead on (long enough to reach the full length of the house. The flex was then wrapped round the handle and the pistol grip of the drill .... zero snags!
This is a solid idea and appears to be super easy with this video! I assume a lot of other different corded power tools are wired similar. In that case, just take a picture with your phone of what color wire goes where.
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Tip for ring terminals, if you need more room than the insulated terminals to fit, before installation remove the plastic sleeve, hold the ring with pliers and pry/pull off the plastic sleeve. If the crimp tube is a little to tight to get al the wires into expand it a touck with your awl/ice pick while holding the ring with pliers then assemble and crimp
After watching your videos on the skill saw I finally bought one and yes it worth the extra money. Next or cord replacement I'm just using a 12 gauge extension cord so I have a nice factory plug, I have never been happy with the replacement plugs.
Friend of mine goes the opposite direction. He cuts the cords on on his tools down to about 6-8". He figures that he's always going to be using it with an extension cord anyway, so there's no need for a 6 foot cord on the tool. And at the end of the day he doesn't have to wind up any power tool cords; he just throws it in the truck box and drives off. He's a welder, not a carpenter, so that might make a difference in which way you go with the cord.
I bought the direct connect Bosch years ago and it works very similar to this demo. I wind the extension cord exactly the same. I get the same freedom. My back up is the Fuel 18 volt Milwaukee. Great combo.
Yet more wisdom from the purveyor of practical goodness! Thanks Scott. Solderless terminals are available in all sizes, if you can't get them at Ace try Platt electric. You can drive the terminal (metal part) out of the plastic jacket with a punch or even a nail. With a good Klein crimper you get a much more sure crimp on non insulated terminals. Even if you aren't a spark chaser you should get a pair of Klein crimpers, much better than that stamped sheet metal thing you have. Like with all things, quality tools make the job a lot more enjoyable.
Marcus Merrick great advice Marcus! I also need to get a new pair of crimpers I looked at the Klein line and they have several different ones any advise on which ones to purchase? Thank you for the great info have a wonderful weekend.
Good point. The crimp available on the typical solderless terminal isn't the greatest, and a source for added resistance (and heat produced) by the tool. Sometimes, I will even solder the lug to the wire after crimping so I know I am getting the best connection possible. Less resistance/ voltage drop equals less amperage pulled through the tool and much longer tool life.
@@andrewbieger5004 getting good terminals helps, actual Thomas and Betts brand (try a professional electrical supply house like Platt) are thicker and better quality than the import brand you get at the megalo-mart. I'm not an electrician by trade, but I gerw up in a house full of them and this was drilled into me for as long as I can remember. Now I mostly do maintenance and rebuild machine tools. The T&B are easier to use and have less resistance.
@@paulrhodes482 the ones I inherited from my father who was a maintenance electrician for 40 years are the 9 3/4" inch cutter and crimper combination. Current model is the 1006, with large and small (insulated and un insulated) crimper and a cutting jaw. If you can't find them locally, Amazon carries Klien. They are about twice the price of the cheap import but I'll give these to my son and he will probably give them to his kids some day.
I like a long cord on my saws too. Makes life much better. You can buy shrink fit electric insulation tubing to replace those blue plastic ones. Comes in many diameters, check auto parts stores or Radio Shack. It comes in 3' lengths, cuts with scissors, and hit with your heat gun for a nice snug, insulating fit. That yellow replacement plug end. You can spray that with several coats of Flex Seal, as seen on TV. It does work well and will waterproof that plug. Hope the New Year brings you and yours nothing but the best Scott. Love all your videos.
Really cool trick! I've always knotted my lead to the extension cord so they can't pop loose, but I also get a surprise every once in awhile when the knot miraculously pulls free somehow! Love the Tool Tank, too. I'd love to have something like that, but I don't do nearly enough big work to justify it. Sure is sweet on the eyes, though!
In video about skill saw you showed us how to store a saw and how to tie a cord so it doesn't tangle, and i started using it to see if i like it. 2 years later i don't know how did i live without it, all you need to do on job is pull one end of the cord, plug it in and you are ready to go.
My Bosch worm drive saw avoids this problem entirely by not having a cord at all. Extension cords plug directly into a locking receptacle on the saw. I think it's genius. Happy New Year Scott!
This video is gold. I have been doing this for as long as I can remember. It not only saved time, but also keeps hands from stealing your cord and telling you, "I just need to borrow this plug real quick" and never bring it back, or plug something else in and not replug your saw.
Thanks for this video!! This is exactly how I had mines for years. Mag77 and 50ft of 12g wire wound up just like that! But since I’ve bought the Dewalt battery operated worm drive style saw, I’ve never had to plug in again. Honestly, it’s powerful enough that I havent noticed any power loss difference from a mag77 and it’s completely cordless. On a very heavy use day, I just go through 2 9ah batteries, one in the saw and bring a fully charged extra, that’s it! It is slightly heavier but not enough to complain about. The Dewalt Saw has been a game changer for me.
Climbing scaffold with chipping guns, grinders, sawzalls etc... knowing this trick now could have made life so much easier all this years. So simple yet so efficient
We used to call that technique for wrapping up an extension cord, a ‘sailors stitch’ or ‘sailors chain’. I always tried to let my guys work they way they wanted to or felt most comfortable, UNLESS they were doing something grossly wrong. If you try and tell someone what and how to do everything, all the way down to how to roll up their extension cord, you’re bound to get some push-back. Just let them learn by example. BUT it did always frustrate me to see someone unwind a cord by grabbing one end and throw the rest on the ground and start walking towards the tool or the outlet 🙄🙄!! It WILL tangle EVERY time. Good vid Scott/Nate 🤜🤛
Quick tip about the easily stripped plastic and other materials that are "soft" use a drop or 2 of super glue in the stripped hole and allow to dry / cure fully before replacing the fastener / screw we use this all the time in the RC community. Grate tip by the way I look forward to upgrading my trusty old saw and maybe a few other tools that can use the extra reach.
The single most important thing to remember is OSHA does not accept modifications to tools. I had 100’ cords on my saw and drill for many years. The advantages are real. Also we used to buy SJ 12-3 cords for our replacement. SJ cords are flexible and narrower in diameter.
Sometimes OSHA is out of reality with certain guidelines, but I suppose an idiot somewhere in workplace history has managed to screw this up and died or became severely injured afterwards. That probably would've taken place before the internet as most of OSHAs rules came from the blood of workers of yesteryear. Atleast on a Skilsaw, this should be hard to screw up with this video.
The crochet method works great for long lengths of rope also. You can also triple and quadruple the long runs before you start to weave the pattern. Really has a way of making unruly runs very manageable.
Just some information there's a strip gauge usually printed on the face of the plug to allow you to cut the wires to the right length. Great video and happy New Year.
Before I watched this video i was having a problem with my angel grinder's cord becoming loose and then slowly working apart until it shorted, so i got tired of it an rewired a 25' orange extension in place of the factory cord and have had no problems and it works beautifully! I do a good bit of cutting and grinding off the back of the truck..lol.
Awesome video. This is something I would have never thought of and something experience, not a marketing team can teach us. I am happy to spend my Saturday nights watching this rather than the garbage on TV
"When I think about electricity, my tail gets bushy." What a great phrase! I will be using that in the future. My grandchildren will love it and my wife will roll her eyes when she hears it. :) I'll never make money with my saw, but I am always dragging out an extension cord every time I use it. No more! I'll be making this modification soon. What a great idea. You have mentioned that you l lived in Wyoming at some point in your life. Just wondering where. I've been here 34+ years out of the 61 I've been in God's green earth. Cheyenne is a great place to live.
I love your videos.. I have always put longer cords on my circular saws. It saves rolling out another cord 80% of the time. You really need to buy some good electricians wire strippers. I have several of those junk pair as well. I use them and they make me mad everytime! My background is almost exactly yours. General contractor, craftsman, builder, maker. Keep It up!
Lol, I've done the same thing to all of my saws. I took the guard off of one so I could put an 8" blade on it to cut 6x6's without having to sawzall the center. Great video.
I like to put yellow long cords on my saws. Makes it easier to get my gear off the site and gives a good visual when blade and cord get to close to each other.
Hello, Sir. I love all of your videos. I am not as confident with electrical work as yourself. In fact, when I do something as simple as wire a switch or outlet and feel an itch, I assume I'm being electrocuted. I would love it if you republished this video in real time showing how you wired up that extension. I'm going to remodel/rebuild a house and add some cabins on a some property I'm in process of purchasing. This is a great idea! Thanks.
Good video. Rather than purchasing bulk cord and a new cord end to install you can purchase a 12 ga extension cord and cut the female end off to connect to the saw, leaving the factory male end in place.
Gosh this takes me back years ago I was working on a new building going up in Toronto. One of the carpenters came to me asking me to add a cord to his skill saw. He cut his cord off it and wanted to do more or less the same thing as what you are doing now. He gave me an old cord they used on the job that was beaten up at the ends but was still good for something small like this.
I was the young apprentice electrician on that job. It was a bit slow the time he asked me to do this and he was helping me out when I needed to get some work done in some walls he was setting up. So I asked one of my journeyman for help to show me how this was done and more or less the same thing.
After that the carpenter everyday worked faster and thanked me for helping him out but I felt like it was the things people did on jobs. You look after each other and help each other out, just to make life that much easier on the job. The place no one wants to be but you are their to make it by in life.
Per your instructions, I added a 12 guage 40' cord to my worm drive. In retrospect, it seems obvious to do so. Now my knotted extension cord doesn't get caught on rafters or come loose & unplug. It's also funny when guys try to "borrow" my extension cord then discover it's the power cord to my worm drive. The only change was I installed a red one to match the handles. This is a game changer! I've learned a lot from your videos. I also never thought to plunge cut into a rafter edge when the pitch won't allow me to utilize the rafter hook. Thank you, sir.
Who on earth down votes any of these? This channel is awesome! So full of wisdom and practical knowledge.
The “Crochet method” of cord management adds a level of time savings that I’ve never seen by any other approach (over-under included)… with each loop, you are handling two lengths of cord! That is a welcome factor when managing a 50’ cord.
I recently "reengineered" my mom's garage for her 80th birthday and she really got a kick out of learning how to daisy-chain her extension cords.
I spent some time in the USAF repairing aircraft communications systems. I keep a soldering iron in my tool box with a tin of flux. Whenever I make any upgrades, similar to what you demonstrated today, I tin the ends of the wire. No fray. Solid connection. I appreciate your skill and moxie. Thank you.
Same here. Everything goes together better and feels solid.
A little safety tip: When working on corded electrical equipment, always keep the plug in sight and preferably within arm's reach while you're working so nobody else can plug it in by mistake.
Love it
So I did a twenty-five foot cord on my little dewalt sidewinder after your first video. I've been on the hunt for an old seventy seven. It like to find a made in the usa model. Its my shop saw. I do hvac in pa so on my service truck i carry a small 20v dewalt. Thats all i need on the road. But for the shop I like to have corded tools. I do appreciate the knowledge you've shared over the last 2years, I've learned some great production tips that I've had the pleasure to share with others.... giving you folks the credit of course.
JT, Be patient, there are lots of used, made-in-the-USA Model 77s out there at very reasonable prices.
@@rightlanehog3151 my old man picked up his for 15 bucks. I just did a once over on it today. It was used as a masonry saw, so it's been used and abused, but it still works fine.
@@TheFeralEngineer That was a very good price for a saw that still works.
@@rightlanehog3151 it needs a few bits and pieces, like i can't get the pivot screw out of the casing, so I'll either have to heat it up with a torch or get a new top guard, and it's missing a thumb lock and the handle is being held together by glue and a prayer, but it still works.
@@TheFeralEngineer The plot thickens....
I NEVER would have though to install a long power chord on a tool like that.. What a great tip!
Just the tip. And only for a second
@@junkman8742💀
I see where you are going and i am glad that works for you. I personally go the other way. My saw has the cord shortened to where the saw can't cut it. I use and extension cord adm tie it off through the handle. Bosch had and elegant system on one of their saws with retention for the socket end of the cord build into the saw. Milwaukee had the twiat lock cords, but i hate to be tied to to something i can't get at any hardware store. All respect for you and your channel. I share your content with my coworkers, you are a master.
As our friend AvE says, you tighten the screw until you hear the crack, then back a quarter turn!
Yes.... But, he also says "What for when you make em skookem, make em uber skookem"
Columbia University has set to decoding him... I'm sure he has ancient knowledge in there somewhere!
@@timfalardeau9753 He's recycling the Red Green show. If you go back and watch his first video every he says "Keep your stick on the ice" just like Red Green.
@@johnpossum556 I don't know why I didn't know that... No excuse... I used to watch Red Green religiously! Great late night viewing when I was younger...
Thanks for the giggle
…and leave it for the next guy.
Scott you are the most honorable man I can say I’ve ever seen.
Your honesty and modest approach to imparting your wealth of knowledge has been a genuine model
to myself and the members of the trades for decades. You’re a true inspiration and a gift to all of us in your viewership.
I have to say this is a necessity even for use of a circular saw at home! Who wants to grab the extension cord every time you go to use your saw, even in the garage?? Thanks for the tip!
Is that not what you are doing when you have a 50ft cord attached directly to the saw? Another option - leave a 50ft extension cord attached to the saw.
Michael Cox no that’s exactly what you’re not doing.. literally the point of this whole video dude
@@kookiethebear To spell it out, the extension cord will either get misplaced, won't always be with the saw, will come unplugged, or even if plugged together "permanently", the plugs will catch on things.
@@kookiethebear That is what I have been doing for 35 years as a roofer/framer. Just tie the ends together and the cord doesn't get separated & the end does not catch on anything anymore than on the end of the saw.
Great video my friend....I've been doing this for 20 years - the first thing after buying a new saw. When I was framing homes full time, we put 100' cords on the saw. We also did this to our screw guns when I hung drywall. Once you do this you'll never go back to extension cords.
35 years in the trades and learned another way to wrap a cord that works!!! Thanks Scott
One of the first things my dad taught me when i began working for him 20 years ago as a framer was to put a long cord on your saw and daisy chain it thru the handles exactly like you just showed in this vid......
What a trip
An an electrical apprentice I watch and learn from most of your carpentry/tool videos. It’s cumbersome to watch you work on electrical stuff 😂! Keep up the good work!
Had to pause the video several times to make sure you had the white wire on the silver screw and the black wire on the gold screw. My mom taught me how to do that when I was 8 years old. Keep up the good work.
For my dad, First I have seen you. You tell some pretty good things. You teached another ole man a new trick today. I am just an ole guy that does his own work around the house. I have built a shop, deck, remodeled the kitchen and bath, Repaired the sink drain line that leaked and wet down the basement needing to replace the cieling and walls sheetrock, and laying a ceramic tile floor. Just some light work to keep me busy.
Hearing you talk about storing cords and tools efficiently so you can pull and and “go to work” reminds me of us in the fire service.
I've replaced the cord on probably a dozen tools or so, and have no reason to be watching this, but I am and I'm enjoying it.
I just wrecked a 100 foot 12 gauge extension cord . The Male side is about 40 foot. It's going on my saw perfect timing. As always thanks for the great videos.
Im just getting started in the trades and ever since I started using an old skil hd77 that I picked up, Ive seen a huge increase in my productivity. I need to get around to doing that to mine. Thank you for sharing your lifetime of knowledge. It has really helped me get a leg up in the trades.
To each his own. And with great respect to you and how you do it, I would do mine almost the complete opposite. For most of my career the first thing I would do is cut off the cord close to the handle and install Hubbell twist lock connectors. My extension cords are also set up the same way. I had this set up on all my tools. It was always a pain to have all the cords of each individual tool getting mixed up with all the others. This way, you grab a tool and an extension cord to fit your need, twist lock it together, and away you go. The twist locks work so well that there have been many times I would lower (or raise) my Skil 77 from the roof to the ground and never worry about coming unplugged. Another great vid! Thanks!
That’s a really good idea. I am definitely not upset to see batteries finally catching up to commercial use demands. Cordless is a damn godsend!
I have always done that to my extension cords. I've heard it called a Mariners loop, but I like your verbiage much better, makes more sense in my head and it reminds me of my grandma, she was always doing a lot of crochet stuff. It never dawned on me to run the cord through the handle that fashion that's brilliant! I shall do that henceforth my good sir.
If you solder the ring connector after crimping it, you are guaranteed a great connection, electrically and mechanically. That's how I was trained to do it by my mentor 30 years ago. Nice video!
You are full of great tips and tricks. So much wisdom. Your son is lucky to have you.
I'm a stagehand--I deal in cables that have been dragged through mud, beer, and puke for months on end. I urge you to try the over under (search roadie wrap on youtube) . If you get good, its faster than the crochet method. It will never put a bend or kink in the wire, you can also choose to have all your slack at one end rather than the middle. You can pull from the end of the cable not the middle, or even through the whole thing while holding onto the end, and the cable will always pay out flat to the floor. Give it a go...
Agreed, learning about that method was an eye opener for me. I now use it for everything. The most useful part for me is being able to throw the line and have it actually go where you want and not get tangled at all. It's a great method to store any kind of cord or line.
Yep. It’s how I roll... 😁
STAGE HAND/THEATRE TECHNICIAN HERE TOO. CAME TO SAY THIS. HOW ARE OTHER INDUSTRIES NOT USING THIS METHOD??? COIL YOUR CABLES FOLKS
To help people out, here is a video showing how it's done.
ruclips.net/video/uy3axdxDdKs/видео.html
I had a guy chain stitch one of my extension cords. I told him he could keep that cord and buy me a new one...
Over/Under is the only way to manage a cable,air hose, extension cord, etc.
You can do it other ways but they really don't make as much sense.
I did the same thing recently to revive my old sidewinder Skil 5150. A new 40’ cord made all the difference. Just remember to replace with a heavier gauge than what they installed at the factory. This is a good tip for not just the pros, but us DIYers, too.
Thanks Scott. My Skil worm drive that I've had since 1979 is due for a new cord. 50' 12ga sounds about right!
I was a little worried about installing the blade after reading a couple of reviews. But it was amazingly easy. Took about 1 minute. Works great ruclips.net/user/postUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c . Cuts easily and is perfect for pocket cuts I needed to make for replacing some old deck boards.
This is one of thoses "why didn"t i think of that"
That is so obvious and simple, yet takes an experienced craftsman to show me.
I have always dragged around an extension cord with the skillsaw. And in my mind they have become unseperable. ...always making sure the connection is safe, having the connection catch and bump on the workpieces. working with super sketchy extension cords on job sites, draging a specially dedicated extension cord with me to avoid sketchiness and have a distance from the powerplug and so on.
wow. this has been an eye opener. thank you so much.
I love all your tips and the knowledge that is based on years and years of experience, not on an extensive Google and Wikipedia search -like a lot of self proclaimed youtube "experts" have.
Changing my cord first thing tomorrow. Thank you!
Works for me also Scott. For 30 years I have been doing the same thing. Although I do not roll my chord the same way. I will send a photo of how I like to store my saw with the chord rolled up. Great video as usual.
We stopped using wired skilsaw, we switched over to battery powerd including the 60v dewalt circular saw. I love it, they are lighter, no more stringing out power cords, cutting cords, dealing with shorts(happens all the time because Eugene OR) and 2 batteries last all day but im a Concrete Carpenter.
Love watching your channel because it reminds me of home. My whole family are carpenters and farmers and everything you show and talk about I grew up with and still do myself.
I was just using mine the other day and thinking I need to change the cord. Never would have thought of using a long cord. Thanks for the great idea!
Watched this over a year ago. I have a cement mixer that runs off a 1/3 hp electric motor. It lived outside for about 20 years and the motor failed. I replaced the motor and had to add a power cord. I remembered this video so instead of the 10 ft cord that came with it I installed a 25 ft cord. First time I used it this past summer the cord was exactly the length I needed. What a simple and great idea.
Scott thanks to your videos on chain stitching and a buddy I use a chain stitch every day absolutely love it and will never use any other method to clean up cordage of wires or anything than can be rolled up thanks again
I can not recall a time I have ever used a skill saw without an extension cord. This is a great modification that I will definitely use!!
Thanks Scott!
A tip on putting screws back in plastic or any material that is using a thread cutting screw is to put it in the hole and turn it out until you feel the screw fall into the original threads before tightening it. This makes it follow the the threads cut on the first installation and reduces the chances that it will cut new threads could weaken the connection.
I love it. Especially how you wrap (tangle) the cord. My dad taught me that method many years ago. I store all my cords like that. It was interesting to see yo start it from the ends. Dad and I start from the middle. We put a zip tie or electrical tape on the center of the cord for fast reference. Also if we only need 10' of a 50' cord we don't have to undo the whole thing. Very nice!
Same here on extension cords!
Just got done putting a 50' 12ga cord on my skilsaw, best idea I've ever heard of!
Scott, this reminded me of working in a rental shop. There, the policy was that when we got a new electric tool we'd chop the supplied cord to about 12" and throw a plug on it. The rationale was that with something like a circular saw, belt sander or whatever, the customer was likely to cut through a longer cord, and us making it short enough to prevent that was a maintenance time saver for us. Plus, we were bound to replace the plug anyway, as the factory plugs were much less likely to stand up to abuse that the heavier ones we put on. It prevented people from winding a long cord so tightly around the tool that it defeated the anti-strain relief at the tool end. It also saved the customer the cost of us having to replace an entire cord. Most customers, whether newbie weekend warriors or contractors, have their own extension cords, and the idea was that they could cut through those to their hearts' content.
I remember once we had a brand new Bosch breaker (electric jackhammer) that we hadn't had time to shorten the cord on. Came back from the first rental with the cord (about 10 foot or so) wrapped neatly around the top of the tool. On inspection it turned out the guy had managed to cut the cord nearly in half about 12" out, which was no mean feat considering that that was still close to two feet from the business end of the tool. Think he was charged 5 bucks for the plug (including labour) which was decent, as if the company wanted to be jerks about it they could have (according to the fine print on the back of the rental form that nobody reads - but should) been charged $150 or so for a new "genuine" Bosch cord.
So now you know why your rental tool may have a frustratingly short cord. It's because of other people that we can't have nice things.
Thanks for sharing your work, tips, wisdom and friendship. All the best in 2019.
Interesting and honest perspectives ,,,, me like
Great insight - as a skeptic I always thought the pigtails gave the rental guys a chance to tack-on a few more bucks to rent a cord!
I see why you had a short cord for rental tools but a plug 1 foot from the tool is something I can't stand, especially on a tool used on lumber. Trying to cut a sheet of plywood with a skil saw only to have the plug immediately catch on the edge of the sheet is frustrating. Yes I could hold the plug up till it gets past the edge, but I'd rather concentrate on cutting not cord management.
I have cut the cord off a breaker about a foot from the tool when I let the tool fall over and the cord was caught against the case as it landed, cut the cord as clean as it would using shears.
@@michaelhobbs8082 That's true too. But if the customer wrecked a rented extension cord they bought it. We also rented shop-built extensions for 220 volt service with either stove or dryer plugs for use in rough-in construction sites. In any case, they were checked before being accepted for return. You would not believe the lengths people will go to to conceal damage they have done to equipment. The short cord eliminates the old wrap the thing up tight to hide the damage game, and saved us time doing returns and replacing the original cords, which would mean taking the tool apart. It boils down to cost-benefit. If the rental company has to spend time replacing long cords on tools after say a half dozen rentals, that costs the company money, mostly labour, which then gets passed on to the consumer. Another part is presentation - what would you think if you went to rent a tool only to see a conveniently long cord with scabby electrical tape repairs all over it? Then there's liability if a scabby repair fails. It's not perfect, but in the rental business, short cords rule. For my own tools? Take Scott's advice - the fewer plugs the better (and I liked how he upped the gauge to compensate for the length of the conductor).
I appreciate that you emphasize that this works best for you. I agree with what you presented about adding a longer cord to your saw and your method of keeping it in your tool box. I can see where it is something others might want to try. Others may disagree but in you humble way you stress that this works for you. Thank you.
This is fantastic. One improvement I’ve made to this is to use a NEMA L15 locking plug on a short whip dangling off the saw, male end, and make the long cord a female locking end. They twist together and head up a ladder no problem. Have this setup on my worm drive and sawzall. Bonus: keeps the dummies away from your most dangerous tools and they’re easier to get back from a pawn shop if stolen.
I love this, great tip
Thanks to you and this great idea I now have a reciprocating saw, random orbital sander, vacuum and circular saw with my preference of power cord on each instead my stable full of extension cords and splitters. Long gone is my habit of tying and taping connections before each day.
Great advice. Wonderful channel. Love these videos as much as any others y’all have put out there for guys like me.
after one of your earlier videos where you mentioned this, i went out to my shop that day and did mine. i had on old, heavy-duty extension cord that i hardly ever used. so i cut off the female end, wired it up; and now i have a 50 ft. cord on my circular saw.
it's awesome not having to drag out an extension cord every time i wanna use it for something out in the yard. i can just plug it into the external outlet on my shop and go to work. i'm also thinking of doing this on my big drill.
and i store mine the same way. i use the "daisy chain" method for the cord. it never gets tangled, it never gets that awful twist in the cord that you see when people do that whole "hand-to-elbow" wrap. it definitely saves the cord and doesn't cause NEAR as much strain (if any at all) on it.
Part of the reason why I love RUclips channels like this: Getting exposed to more ideas on how to tackle common problems than what you might see in your own home town. I've almost never seen a contractor swap the factory cable for a more useful length, but I really don't know why this isn't the norm. (This seems like such a practical and sensible thing that I don't know why they don't ship from the factory with a short lead in the box, but expect the buyer to finish wiring it themselves to their own specification.)
The one contractor I've seen and remember having swapped his cables has gone kind of the opposite with his tools - He replaces the factory lead with an even shorter one, but with a neat locking plug instead of the standard friction plug.
He then uses extension cords with the mate to the locking plug connector, and can quickly switch the length of the cord to the job needed, or swap between tools at his work site with a single cord. (And a cord that stays firmly attached to the tool till he unscrews the locking collar.)
Getting a cut in a cable 6 inches from the tool is usually pretty hard to do, but if someone shears your extension cable you can just swap out for another from your kit box and carry on, rather than having a tool out of action till you rip it apart to rewire it completely.
I sadly have no idea what fitting he uses, but it is just large enough that you can still plug most standard 3 prong north american cords into the extension cord without them needing to have the locking collar on them. If someone happens to know a maker of them, I would love to find a source for my own gear.
Speaking as an electrician, I’m impressed!
Had a contractor I worked for always used 100ft extension cords . Always have been a fan of the longer cords on my saw since and that was back in the 80's
I have lernd that it is good practice to have the ground lead the longest in everything so that it is the last cable to detach it self, for safetys sake. Great video as always 😁👍
I have also been doing this to lots of tools most my life. Specifically items like a battery charger for my boat that needed to be longer to avoid an extension cord and several frequently used saws, etc. I recently bought a red metal cutting circular saw and was amazed it came with a 15-20 ft cord factory.
My dad used to buy extension chords for this. He thought it was an advantage that the extension chord came with the molded plug already attached.
WJ the Home Builder you can buy the cables with the moulded plug already attached to them in Europe :) my grandfather used to attach those to his tools :)
it's also cheaper than buying the wire by the foot.
@@davesbrewing and it's more likely to be the right kind of wire for that application :)
That’s what I did to make an extended cord on my vintage Sawzall. Bought a high quality USA made all rubber 20ft extension cord and lopped the female end off and installed. Been going great on the job for 15 years now
@@JerryWick I have been doing the same for years!
I LOVE the crochet method of cord management!
In 1976 my boss bought a me a worm drive skill saw model 77 since than I have put several 25 foot cords on it due to being crushed, cut in half( can you imagine that) and not using a good enough cord and it got to stiff. You are a lucky man to get to buy a new saw mine will not die, new handle, brushes and it's still going 4 new homes later, decks, roofs, remodel's heck I even flew it to Alaska to do a big remodel for my brother. I feel like tom hanks in the green mile it will be with me for the rest of my life. I guess that's not such of a bad thing after all is it. I'm 60 now and half way done with our retirement home so I guess the skill saw 77 will be passed on to my kids thanks for letting me ramble. love your videos
Long cord on a circ saw is definitely necessary for jobsite use. That said, since I bought Makitas rear handle blade left circ saw, my corded saw has been reassigned to steel and concrete cutting duty. The new cordless saws are finally on par with their corded brethren in terms of power, even more powerful in fact, and you don't have to worry about a cord of any length. The real question is how they will stand up to jobsite abuse. I haven't babied the Makita but it's still pretty green. Mag 77's just run, and run and run. Only 77 I've ever seen that was broken was due to an oil leak and subsequent failure of the worm gear.
We acquired a dual battery Makita skill saw three years ago. Since our type of work is very dynamic, meaning we have quite a wide range of tools that get used here and there, rather than a few tools that receive a ton of use, it hasn't been "abused", so to say, but it _has_ seen more than "weekend warrior" use, and it certainly is holding up pretty well so far. It'll rip 2x4 with about 75% of the capacity of a corded one, which I believe is certainly good enough for it being cordless.
In fact, since we mostly work on mobile homes in retirement parks, and the available outlets can be quite weak, sometimes it has _more_ cutting capacity than the corded one.
When ever a cord goes bad I ALWAYS put a longer cord back, maybe not 40 to 60 feet but 25 for sure. Also I use porter cable drills too, they might not be the best but they are pretty good and they are cheap.
Thanks Tim.
This is really smart. Looking back at all the years I fought saws unplugging from the extension when I’m climbing through the trusses, cutting roof sheathing, etc 🤦♂️
And yes, I tied the connection in a knot. I didn’t lose the extension, just had to frequently reconnect or fight a knot a short distance from my cut.
Excellent upgrade. We do the same, only with 25' We also just cut the end off and use solder-less connectors for the extension piece but separate each one by 2-3'' so we don't end up with a lump in the wire. After the connections are done with never-seize, we slide the 3 pieces of shrink tube over and shrink one at a time, each one longer than the last, then tape. We use a new end like you do, with never-seize of course, so there is only one, so called lump in the wire. I will do it your way from now on, because I forgot about the wire size difference between the new and old or maybe I was lazy about taking the handle apart, lol ! Thanks for the education always.
I like the idea of a long cord on my tools(saws, drills etc.) however you need a lot of cord for all the tools. I have no cord on my tools, just a pigtail and a twist lock plug (6 inches). I have one extension cord which I am able to use on all the tools as I can only use one tool at a time. Works for me.
Louis Howard I have the same setup
That does everything except lock. This guy lowers his saw from the rafters by the cord. I think for a framer, it makes sense to have the cord attached securely.
FWIW, many of my low amp tools I use at a bench have no cord at all. Just a socket. I keep one 6 foot cord at one bench. I keep one 8 foot cord at the other, because the nearest power outlet is farther away from that one. (I obviously work on much smaller things more often than framers.) So I totally get it. Even without the longer cord, there's also the huge advantage that you don't have to manage the cord when you put the tool away.
And one of the best parts is how I can hang my power tools on a pegboard just hand tools. Every tool has its place, and that is worth a little extra time of unplugging and replugging the single cord like an air tool.
Louis Howard just said the same fella, but more wordy😂😂😂 you’re absolutely on the money right.
Mildy Productive know where you’re coming from, I suppose the only way over is use the best twist locks you can find and fit. 👍🏻
@@nickturner2606 Yeah, that would be nice. The ones I use don't lock.
If I were a framer, I would have to set down my saw 20 times and hour. Because I don't know how to do it and because I'm way out of shape, lol. I think it would be stressful if "did I lock the cord?" crossed my mind every time I had to let go of the saw in a precarious spot. Like if I had to rest... or if I lost my balance 20 feet above a hard floor.
Saw that so many years ago when I started. I've put a 40' 12/3 on three saws I've had over the years as well as coil it up as you do. Works SO much easier every day.
Arguably the handiest trick I ever did for my framing crew.
Most of the carpenters I know have gone cordless. This latest generation of cordless tools are lite and powerful. The 6" circular saws can cut 2x and decking just fine and sticking an extra battery in your tool belt to extend your time up top. There is a place for corded tools on the job site but carrying heavy plugin tools all day is rapidly becoming history. That said I have a corded Makita saw that I use with abrasive blades to cut steel. It is going to get a longer cord in a day ot two. Thanks for the tip.
I actually need to replace my worn out cord on my 77 and saw another video a while back. Awesome to see your video on a topic that is exactly what I need.
Gotta change the oil on mine also cuz I have no idea the last time my grandpa did, saw hasnt been used in probably 15 years since he was already retired.
We used to do something similar! Back then I was a Sparkie working on domestic installations. We would have 240V Drills (rather than saws) and the leads were always too short. We would put a long lead on (long enough to reach the full length of the house. The flex was then wrapped round the handle and the pistol grip of the drill .... zero snags!
This is a solid idea and appears to be super easy with this video! I assume a lot of other different corded power tools are wired similar. In that case, just take a picture with your phone of what color wire goes where.
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Tip for ring terminals, if you need more room than the insulated terminals to fit, before installation remove the plastic sleeve, hold the ring with pliers and pry/pull off the plastic sleeve. If the crimp tube is a little to tight to get al the wires into expand it a touck with your awl/ice pick while holding the ring with pliers then assemble and crimp
After watching your videos on the skill saw I finally bought one and yes it worth the extra money. Next or cord replacement I'm just using a 12 gauge extension cord so I have a nice factory plug, I have never been happy with the replacement plugs.
Friend of mine goes the opposite direction. He cuts the cords on on his tools down to about 6-8".
He figures that he's always going to be using it with an extension cord anyway, so there's no need for a 6 foot cord on the tool. And at the end of the day he doesn't have to wind up any power tool cords; he just throws it in the truck box and drives off.
He's a welder, not a carpenter, so that might make a difference in which way you go with the cord.
I bought the direct connect Bosch years ago and it works very similar to this demo. I wind the extension cord exactly the same. I get the same freedom. My back up is the Fuel 18 volt Milwaukee. Great combo.
Worth waiting up for Scott ...
Thanks for imparting all that knowledge!
Yet more wisdom from the purveyor of practical goodness! Thanks Scott.
Solderless terminals are available in all sizes, if you can't get them at Ace try Platt electric. You can drive the terminal (metal part) out of the plastic jacket with a punch or even a nail. With a good Klein crimper you get a much more sure crimp on non insulated terminals.
Even if you aren't a spark chaser you should get a pair of Klein crimpers, much better than that stamped sheet metal thing you have. Like with all things, quality tools make the job a lot more enjoyable.
Marcus Merrick great advice Marcus! I also need to get a new pair of crimpers I looked at the Klein line and they have several different ones any advise on which ones to purchase? Thank you for the great info have a wonderful weekend.
Good point. The crimp available on the typical solderless terminal isn't the greatest, and a source for added resistance (and heat produced) by the tool. Sometimes, I will even solder the lug to the wire after crimping so I know I am getting the best connection possible. Less resistance/ voltage drop equals less amperage pulled through the tool and much longer tool life.
@@andrewbieger5004 getting good terminals helps, actual Thomas and Betts brand (try a professional electrical supply house like Platt) are thicker and better quality than the import brand you get at the megalo-mart. I'm not an electrician by trade, but I gerw up in a house full of them and this was drilled into me for as long as I can remember. Now I mostly do maintenance and rebuild machine tools. The T&B are easier to use and have less resistance.
@@paulrhodes482 the ones I inherited from my father who was a maintenance electrician for 40 years are the 9 3/4" inch cutter and crimper combination. Current model is the 1006, with large and small (insulated and un insulated) crimper and a cutting jaw. If you can't find them locally, Amazon carries Klien. They are about twice the price of the cheap import but I'll give these to my son and he will probably give them to his kids some day.
@@msquared6324 Thank you I will take a look now on Amazon! Have a Happy New Year.
I thought I was crazy when I put a 20' - 25' cord on my wormdrive back in the mid 70's. Never regretted it. Still have & use that saw.
I like a long cord on my saws too. Makes life much better. You can buy shrink fit electric insulation tubing to replace those blue plastic ones. Comes in many diameters, check auto parts stores or Radio Shack. It comes in 3' lengths, cuts with scissors, and hit with your heat gun for a nice snug, insulating fit. That yellow replacement plug end. You can spray that with several coats of Flex Seal, as seen on TV. It does work well and will waterproof that plug. Hope the New Year brings you and yours nothing but the best Scott. Love all your videos.
Really cool trick! I've always knotted my lead to the extension cord so they can't pop loose, but I also get a surprise every once in awhile when the knot miraculously pulls free somehow!
Love the Tool Tank, too. I'd love to have something like that, but I don't do nearly enough big work to justify it. Sure is sweet on the eyes, though!
In video about skill saw you showed us how to store a saw and how to tie a cord so it doesn't tangle, and i started using it to see if i like it. 2 years later i don't know how did i live without it, all you need to do on job is pull one end of the cord, plug it in and you are ready to go.
My Bosch worm drive saw avoids this problem entirely by not having a cord at all. Extension cords plug directly into a locking receptacle on the saw. I think it's genius. Happy New Year Scott!
This video is gold. I have been doing this for as long as I can remember. It not only saved time, but also keeps hands from stealing your cord and telling you, "I just need to borrow this plug real quick" and never bring it back, or plug something else in and not replug your saw.
Good tip, it's true for routers too.
One thing I've done is glued a single gang extension cord to the factory plug. Works pretty good.
Thanks for this video!! This is exactly how I had mines for years. Mag77 and 50ft of 12g wire wound up just like that! But since I’ve bought the Dewalt battery operated worm drive style saw, I’ve never had to plug in again. Honestly, it’s powerful enough that I havent noticed any power loss difference from a mag77 and it’s completely cordless. On a very heavy use day, I just go through 2 9ah batteries, one in the saw and bring a fully charged extra, that’s it! It is slightly heavier but not enough to complain about. The Dewalt Saw has been a game changer for me.
Climbing scaffold with chipping guns, grinders, sawzalls etc... knowing this trick now could have made life so much easier all this years. So simple yet so efficient
I just improving my hobby because of you guys
We used to call that technique for wrapping up an extension cord, a ‘sailors stitch’ or ‘sailors chain’. I always tried to let my guys work they way they wanted to or felt most comfortable, UNLESS they were doing something grossly wrong. If you try and tell someone what and how to do everything, all the way down to how to roll up their extension cord, you’re bound to get some push-back. Just let them learn by example. BUT it did always frustrate me to see someone unwind a cord by grabbing one end and throw the rest on the ground and start walking towards the tool or the outlet 🙄🙄!! It WILL tangle EVERY time. Good vid Scott/Nate 🤜🤛
great comment, thank you!
Quick tip about the easily stripped plastic and other materials that are "soft" use a drop or 2 of super glue in the stripped hole and allow to dry / cure fully before replacing the fastener / screw we use this all the time in the RC community. Grate tip by the way I look forward to upgrading my trusty old saw and maybe a few other tools that can use the extra reach.
This is a great hack! I have done this on several of our corded tools after watching this
Many people don't replace them and it's very smart to replace them and having a extra long one is plus , always good tips
The single most important thing to remember is OSHA does not accept modifications to tools. I had 100’ cords on my saw and drill for many years. The advantages are real. Also we used to buy SJ 12-3 cords for our replacement. SJ cords are flexible and narrower in diameter.
Sometimes OSHA is out of reality with certain guidelines, but I suppose an idiot somewhere in workplace history has managed to screw this up and died or became severely injured afterwards. That probably would've taken place before the internet as most of OSHAs rules came from the blood of workers of yesteryear. Atleast on a Skilsaw, this should be hard to screw up with this video.
The crochet method works great for long lengths of rope also. You can also triple and quadruple the long runs before you start to weave the pattern. Really has a way of making unruly runs very manageable.
Just some information there's a strip gauge usually printed on the face of the plug to allow you to cut the wires to the right length. Great video and happy New Year.
I did this on my late fathers Model 77. Thanks for the tips!
Before I watched this video i was having a problem with my angel grinder's cord becoming loose and then slowly working apart until it shorted, so i got tired of it an rewired a 25' orange extension in place of the factory cord and have had no problems and it works beautifully! I do a good bit of cutting and grinding off the back of the truck..lol.
Awesome video. This is something I would have never thought of and something experience, not a marketing team can teach us. I am happy to spend my Saturday nights watching this rather than the garbage on TV
"When I think about electricity, my tail gets bushy." What a great phrase! I will be using that in the future. My grandchildren will love it and my wife will roll her eyes when she hears it. :)
I'll never make money with my saw, but I am always dragging out an extension cord every time I use it. No more! I'll be making this modification soon. What a great idea.
You have mentioned that you l lived in Wyoming at some point in your life. Just wondering where. I've been here 34+ years out of the 61 I've been in God's green earth. Cheyenne is a great place to live.
Powell!!! Five years! Loved every day of it!!
I love your videos.. I have always put longer cords on my circular saws. It saves rolling out another cord 80% of the time. You really need to buy some good electricians wire strippers. I have several of those junk pair as well. I use them and they make me mad everytime! My background is almost exactly yours. General contractor, craftsman, builder, maker. Keep
It up!
Lol, I've done the same thing to all of my saws. I took the guard off of one so I could put an 8" blade on it to cut 6x6's without having to sawzall the center. Great video.
I like to put yellow long cords on my saws. Makes it easier to get my gear off the site and gives a good visual when blade and cord get to close to each other.
That makes incredible sense! I have struggled with the stock 6' cord not being long enough.
that cord crochet is going to change my freaking life!
Hello, Sir. I love all of your videos. I am not as confident with electrical work as yourself. In fact, when I do something as simple as wire a switch or outlet and feel an itch, I assume I'm being electrocuted. I would love it if you republished this video in real time showing how you wired up that extension. I'm going to remodel/rebuild a house and add some cabins on a some property I'm in process of purchasing. This is a great idea! Thanks.
Dude its 3 wires... Best of luck on that remodel, stay safe.
Good video. Rather than purchasing bulk cord and a new cord end to install you can purchase a 12 ga extension cord and cut the female end off to connect to the saw, leaving the factory male end in place.