I bought the Yankum fair lead and needed to rope splice. I found this Factor 55 FID to make it easier. I tried the Yankum video to make a Brummell splice and it was too complicated. I did the instructions in this video and it was super easy and also easy to memorize if you have to do one in the field. Thanks!
Very Instructional. Thanks for creating this. My new Factor 55 Fast Fid just arrived and I've spent some time learning about synthetic winch line and field repairs. I've been wheeling for about 5 years but the learning never stops. Thanks for contributing to my knowledge base and toolkit.
I’ve got mine coming today!!! Can’t wait to use it. Got my synthetic rope previously held together by wire rope clamps that have not done so well via slipping and causing extra weight on the line. Saw Mike of Mikes Recovery use one.
You guys need to improve the fast fid by adding some sort of friction cover for the wire cage part. Doing and redoing this a few times trying to get the length right, I think I introduced more frays into the rope than many normal uses of the winch!
the taper is what gives the splice strength. Take the extra 30 seconds to taper correctly before burying the end. it may save your life or your vehicle
I purchased the tool and your instructions seem pretty straight forward. My question is: At the beginning you pass the tool through the rope 2x before you do the deep bury, would it make the loop any stronger (less likely to fail at the loop) if you passed it through 3x? Thx
If you made something similar, but with bigger fid options, and a soft cover over the wires to prevent fraying or getting caught, you could sell a ton of these to people who splice double braided nylon line for boats
I got my fast fid yesterday. Well made. Have you found the basket wire long lasting? Seems to be the first point of failure after repeated use. Especially where it does the 180 degree bends at the end
Absolutely. Depending on how much you’re splicing, this will dictate how long the basket will stay in good working order. Most users will get many years of service out of their Fid. For those using it for commercial purposes and splicing daily, replacement baskets are available. If you ever have any issues please email sales@factor55.com Thank you for your business!
Got my Factor 55 fid today, As l lives in Australia, But was a bit disappointed that the size is only in imperial and not in metric as well, as their is room on the other side, Plus it only goes up to 1/2” only, l use 19mm/3/4 “ plasma rope, so I’m trying to get the thread length for it.
Hi Andrew, Great advice to include the metric measurements on our Fast Fid. We will look at doing this in the future. The Fast Fid is designed to work with rope up to 1/2" or 13mm, although we have suscessfully used it to splice rope up to 5/8" or 16mm thick. For 19mm or 3/4" line it would need to be buried (the spliced tail) 63 times the rope diameter, so 1.2 m or close to 4 feet. You can check out some step by step splice instructions here- atlanticbraids.com/longer-bury-eye-splice/ You can use the needle end of your fid and simply tape the end of the rope to it, although this defeats the purpose of the wire basket, you can still get your splice complete, again the Fast Fid is not designed to work with rope larger than 1/2" or 13mm in diameter. Please let us know if you have any other questions and thank you for your business!
Quick question, When l got my new 3/4 winch rope, it dose not have any where near that length at the hook up end, or is that different to a in line splice. ?
@@andrewwylie2187 most times when you receive a winch rope already spliced they do not come with the splice buried long enough. Most winch ropes have the splice only buried 6-10 inches or less! We've seen many with Brummel Lock splices and shallow bury lengths. This could be for the winch rope manufactures to save on material costs etc. The Brummel lock is a great way to prevent the splice from coming loose, but again it is up to the end user to decide which splicing method will work best for their intended purposes. You can always contact your rope manufacturer to get better explanation of their splicing techniques. Thank you again for your business!
Absolutely. There are many splicing techniques like the Brummel Lock splice etc. Check out this link here: www.animatedknots.com/splicing-knots Thanks!
Hmmm, for that price, just get an entire set of Selma fids or similar. Then you have all sorts of sizes for soft shackles etc, and they're even easier to pull the bury line through when compared to increasing the diameter of the bury line with a wire trammel and trying to pull that through. I have an entire set of those trammels as well (for cable pulling) and can say that they're inferior to decent fids for splicing , in my experience.
Thank you for your comment. Our Fast Fid product has a specially designed wire grip that is incredibly slick. Making splicing quick and simple. Our Fid is specifically designed for use with winch lines, where you can field repair your rope if you have a failure in the backcountry without the need of tape or additional tools. The tool can work with rope diameters 5/16 - 1/2 inch. Although the Selma sets are nice, our one Fid is 20.00 cheaper and made for in the field splicing when a failure occurs.
Why don't you show what we see on the trail: Winch line is broken between winch and anchor point? Two ends that need to become one. You showed us how to loop around something. Show us how to take two ends, say mid point of the total length of the rope and join them. Thank you.
That will be the key feature to our next video from Windrock, where we did it on the trail because of a winch line break, and we should be releasing that later this week.
Love the product. Just a little feedback though. A synthetic line like you are using here is referred to as a line and not a rope that is made from natural, not man-made fiber. Great product though! I think I'll buy one.
Historically a rope is a rope until it is given a job then it is called the 'job'-line. Anchor line, mooring line, winch line, hoisting line, etc. They were originally all ropes. However there IS a difference between ropes and cords, but I will leave that to a google search. And I agree, great video and tools.
Meh. I have always just used a coathanger or a piece of music wire or fishing leader wire, depending on the size needed. Works just as good and last time I checked, a wire coathanger was still cheap or free.
With a deep bury splice we recommend 2-3 passes through the line and to properly taper the rope. For extra security you can also lock stitch the line. There are a lot of great tutorials on proper rope splicing from Samson Rope, Marlow Rope, or Offroad Recovery Trainers online. Our Fast Fid makes the process of splicing much easier and faster. It is up to you to determine the best splicing technique for your use. Please give us a call anytime if you have any questions 208-639-1674 8-5pm M-F MST
@@benkanobe7500 it is very easy to do and has been talked about and featured in many other videos we have made over the years about the Fast Fid. If you do not taper the line the breaking strength of the rope is only effected up to about 10%. We can cover that more in future content and you can feel free to email or contact us directly and we can assist you as well. Thanks for the comments.
Think you meant to say gear? The Fast Fid is one of the least expensive tools we make at only 47.00. The cost of goods can be high because everything is USA sourced and Made. We billet machined our parts out of USA Made Kaiser billet and even the pouch this tool comes in, is hand sewn in California. If you do your research, yes, our products are more expensive then untested, unrated, cheap imported recovery gear but still less expensive than other USA brands. We aim to not cut corners when offering the best safety equipment for your needs because when you need it to work it will.
@@Factor55 correct, I meant to say gear. I’m Australian and your fid is over $140 here. The ultrahook is $520.00! Sure, the quality may be high but that doesn’t mean imported products won’t also work just as well! Apart from that, the US made thing means nothing to us. I understand freight and exchange rates make imported products expensive but 500 bucks for a hook is just ridiculous to most people.
@@officialWWM we are working on setting international standardized pricing that should eliminate price gauging from some dealers due to import fees and duties. Not sure based on the daily exchange rate if the cost would be even close to the same if you ordered direct off our website. We are now owned by WARN Industries and they have a much better distribution channel in AU and will help to solve a lot of the pricing issues. As far as quality it materials, there is a HUGE difference. Sure, you can get away with some stuff with imported gear for a while, but those parts based off testing and repeatability are no where near the consistency and quality of the materials we use here in the US. We have many dealers in AU like Off-road Industries, Drifta 4WD, and A247. You can see them in person at any of those locations or contact us direct as we have scratch and dent items we sell at discounts as well. Sales@factor55.com Thanks!
@@Factor55 thank you for that excellent information. I will buy directly from your website. As I’m sure you are aware, shipping is a nightmare at the moment but it’s probably still worth waiting. The local suppliers are charging crazy prices for your products. The only people who can afford to buy them are those in 100k plus vehicles that probably never even go off road!
The splice demonstrated in this video is a representation of a deep bury splice. The locking brummel splice can be seen here www.animatedknots.com/brummel/index.php We pull tested the splice featured in this video during our last round of destructive testing at Boise Rigging and proved tying a knot, like an overhand knot does in fact weaken the rope by up to 65% of the rope strength, but splicing the rope just like in the video above retains 100% of the rope strength. For more info on this you can contact our engineering department at 208-639-1674 Thanks for watching!
Factor 55 animated knot are an ok source for knots but check out the premium ropes video. The length of bury can be very short in a Brummel because of those tight turns but they also weaken the splice considerably. The buried tail will see very little pull
It's not a brummel and yes a brummel splice is a very effective and reliant splice if used on the proper strength rope. The deep bury that is demonstrated in the video is stronger but the disadvantage is the fact that its transient and the rope can walk or work itself undone. You can visually inspect the security of a brummel very easily. Yes a Brummel reduces the strength of the rope but that's the very reason that most winch lines are rated for almost twice the pulling strentgh of the winches ability.
It's not a brummel. A brummel has the working end through the standing end, and then vice versa before the bury. This is closest in resemblance to what New England Ropes calls a Stitch Splice (which is different again from the concept of lock stitching, though the goal is the same). Brummels are stronger than basically any practical 'knot' in UHMWPE (short of 'knots' that use external tools like dog bones etc), but not as strong as long bury splice (with a long buried tail, ~72x rope diameter or longer). If you are worried, just do a long bury splice and (relatively loosely) lock stitch it. Use stich thread that is approximately ~1/7th of the rope diameter.
I bought the Yankum fair lead and needed to rope splice. I found this Factor 55 FID to make it easier. I tried the Yankum video to make a Brummell splice and it was too complicated. I did the instructions in this video and it was super easy and also easy to memorize if you have to do one in the field. Thanks!
i got my fast fid at jeep beach last week. I used it today to make an old rope into an extension. super easy and super fast!!!
Awesome! Thank you for your business!
Very Instructional. Thanks for creating this. My new Factor 55 Fast Fid just arrived and I've spent some time learning about synthetic winch line and field repairs. I've been wheeling for about 5 years but the learning never stops. Thanks for contributing to my knowledge base and toolkit.
Thank you for your comment and your business!
I’ve got mine coming today!!! Can’t wait to use it. Got my synthetic rope previously held together by wire rope clamps that have not done so well via slipping and causing extra weight on the line. Saw Mike of Mikes Recovery use one.
Thanks for sharing 👍I have several of your products and they are cream of the crop!
wow that was super easy and fast
Quick and easy! Going to have to order one.
You guys need to improve the fast fid by adding some sort of friction cover for the wire cage part. Doing and redoing this a few times trying to get the length right, I think I introduced more frays into the rope than many normal uses of the winch!
the taper is what gives the splice strength. Take the extra 30 seconds to taper correctly before burying the end. it may save your life or your vehicle
I purchased the tool and your instructions seem pretty straight forward. My question is: At the beginning you pass the tool through the rope 2x before you do the deep bury, would it make the loop any stronger (less likely to fail at the loop) if you passed it through 3x? Thx
Thanks - love the Prolink - just bought the tool.
If you made something similar, but with bigger fid options, and a soft cover over the wires to prevent fraying or getting caught, you could sell a ton of these to people who splice double braided nylon line for boats
We will pass this along to engineering. Bigger and smaller options hope to come soon enough!
I got my fast fid yesterday. Well made. Have you found the basket wire long lasting? Seems to be the first point of failure after repeated use. Especially where it does the 180 degree bends at the end
Absolutely. Depending on how much you’re splicing, this will dictate how long the basket will stay in good working order. Most users will get many years of service out of their Fid. For those using it for commercial purposes and splicing daily, replacement baskets are available.
If you ever have any issues please email sales@factor55.com
Thank you for your business!
That's nuts. I can splice single braid dyneema (spectra) with a ball point pen and a piece of electrical tape. Or a wire coat hanger.
Got my Factor 55 fid today, As l lives in Australia, But was a bit disappointed that the size is only in imperial and not in metric as well, as their is room on the other side, Plus it only goes up to 1/2” only, l use 19mm/3/4 “ plasma rope, so I’m trying to get the thread length for it.
Hi Andrew, Great advice to include the metric measurements on our Fast Fid. We will look at doing this in the future.
The Fast Fid is designed to work with rope up to 1/2" or 13mm, although we have suscessfully used it to splice rope up to 5/8" or 16mm thick. For 19mm or 3/4" line it would need to be buried (the spliced tail) 63 times the rope diameter, so 1.2 m or close to 4 feet. You can check out some step by step splice instructions here- atlanticbraids.com/longer-bury-eye-splice/
You can use the needle end of your fid and simply tape the end of the rope to it, although this defeats the purpose of the wire basket, you can still get your splice complete, again the Fast Fid is not designed to work with rope larger than 1/2" or 13mm in diameter.
Please let us know if you have any other questions and thank you for your business!
Thanks for getting back to me, thanks for the advice. Appreciate it.
Quick question, when l got my new 3/4
Quick question,
When l got my new 3/4 winch rope, it dose not have any where near that length at the hook up end, or is that different to a in line splice. ?
@@andrewwylie2187 most times when you receive a winch rope already spliced they do not come with the splice buried long enough. Most winch ropes have the splice only buried 6-10 inches or less! We've seen many with Brummel Lock splices and shallow bury lengths. This could be for the winch rope manufactures to save on material costs etc. The Brummel lock is a great way to prevent the splice from coming loose, but again it is up to the end user to decide which splicing method will work best for their intended purposes. You can always contact your rope manufacturer to get better explanation of their splicing techniques.
Thank you again for your business!
If time was not a factor and you are home, with your Fast Fid, is there an alternative to this long bury that is not a fast field repair? Thx
Absolutely. There are many splicing techniques like the Brummel Lock splice etc.
Check out this link here: www.animatedknots.com/splicing-knots
Thanks!
We used to use fids all the time to fix ski ropes.
Wow that is easy. Sold!
Can I buy one and get it sent to me in New Zealand. It is a must-have . I have been splicing for over 50 years.
Yep! factor55.com/product/fast-fid-new/
Hmmm, for that price, just get an entire set of Selma fids or similar. Then you have all sorts of sizes for soft shackles etc, and they're even easier to pull the bury line through when compared to increasing the diameter of the bury line with a wire trammel and trying to pull that through. I have an entire set of those trammels as well (for cable pulling) and can say that they're inferior to decent fids for splicing , in my experience.
Thank you for your comment. Our Fast Fid product has a specially designed wire grip that is incredibly slick. Making splicing quick and simple. Our Fid is specifically designed for use with winch lines, where you can field repair your rope if you have a failure in the backcountry without the need of tape or additional tools. The tool can work with rope diameters 5/16 - 1/2 inch. Although the Selma sets are nice, our one Fid is 20.00 cheaper and made for in the field splicing when a failure occurs.
Why don't you show what we see on the trail: Winch line is broken between winch and anchor point? Two ends that need to become one. You showed us how to loop around something. Show us how to take two ends, say mid point of the total length of the rope and join them. Thank you.
That will be the key feature to our next video from Windrock, where we did it on the trail because of a winch line break, and we should be releasing that later this week.
@@Factor55 Fantastic! If that one is instructional enough to do it, I will be purchasing your porduct. I don't like videos that say, "but,........."
Love the product. Just a little feedback though. A synthetic line like you are using here is referred to as a line and not a rope that is made from natural, not man-made fiber. Great product though! I think I'll buy one.
Historically a rope is a rope until it is given a job then it is called the 'job'-line. Anchor line, mooring line, winch line, hoisting line, etc. They were originally all ropes. However there IS a difference between ropes and cords, but I will leave that to a google search. And I agree, great video and tools.
That’s pretty cool👍
Meh. I have always just used a coathanger or a piece of music wire or fishing leader wire, depending on the size needed. Works just as good and last time I checked, a wire coathanger was still cheap or free.
This is awesome!!!!!!!@
On how thin of a rope will this work on 3/16s ??
Not yet. It will only work with as low as 5/16. We are working on one for smaller diameters currently. Thanks!
Do you recommend passing the rope through twice when installing the Factor 55 Splicer?
With a deep bury splice we recommend 2-3 passes through the line and to properly taper the rope. For extra security you can also lock stitch the line. There are a lot of great tutorials on proper rope splicing from Samson Rope, Marlow Rope, or Offroad Recovery Trainers online. Our Fast Fid makes the process of splicing much easier and faster. It is up to you to determine the best splicing technique for your use. Please give us a call anytime if you have any questions 208-639-1674 8-5pm M-F MST
@@Factor55 If you recommend: "...and to properly taper the rope..." why didn't you show us how to do that??
@@benkanobe7500 it is very easy to do and has been talked about and featured in many other videos we have made over the years about the Fast Fid. If you do not taper the line the breaking strength of the rope is only effected up to about 10%. We can cover that more in future content and you can feel free to email or contact us directly and we can assist you as well. Thanks for the comments.
Just take my money now!!!
Wow! Factor 55 is about to crush the winch tackle market. Say bye bye all you other companies.
You need to taper the bury or else it will fail at the end of the bury!
You hear is so expensive!
Think you meant to say gear? The Fast Fid is one of the least expensive tools we make at only 47.00. The cost of goods can be high because everything is USA sourced and Made. We billet machined our parts out of USA Made Kaiser billet and even the pouch this tool comes in, is hand sewn in California. If you do your research, yes, our products are more expensive then untested, unrated, cheap imported recovery gear but still less expensive than other USA brands. We aim to not cut corners when offering the best safety equipment for your needs because when you need it to work it will.
@@Factor55 correct, I meant to say gear. I’m Australian and your fid is over $140 here. The ultrahook is $520.00! Sure, the quality may be high but that doesn’t mean imported products won’t also work just as well!
Apart from that, the US made thing means nothing to us. I understand freight and exchange rates make imported products expensive but 500 bucks for a hook is just ridiculous to most people.
@@officialWWM we are working on setting international standardized pricing that should eliminate price gauging from some dealers due to import fees and duties. Not sure based on the daily exchange rate if the cost would be even close to the same if you ordered direct off our website. We are now owned by WARN Industries and they have a much better distribution channel in AU and will help to solve a lot of the pricing issues. As far as quality it materials, there is a HUGE difference. Sure, you can get away with some stuff with imported gear for a while, but those parts based off testing and repeatability are no where near the consistency and quality of the materials we use here in the US. We have many dealers in AU like Off-road Industries, Drifta 4WD, and A247. You can see them in person at any of those locations or contact us direct as we have scratch and dent items we sell at discounts as well. Sales@factor55.com
Thanks!
@@Factor55 thank you for that excellent information. I will buy directly from your website. As I’m sure you are aware, shipping is a nightmare at the moment but it’s probably still worth waiting. The local suppliers are charging crazy prices for your products. The only people who can afford to buy them are those in 100k plus vehicles that probably never even go off road!
😨😨😨😨😨😨😨😨😨
that's a locking Brummel splice, almost as weak as knotting and certainly a long way from 100% rope strength
The splice demonstrated in this video is a representation of a deep bury splice. The locking brummel splice can be seen here www.animatedknots.com/brummel/index.php
We pull tested the splice featured in this video during our last round of destructive testing at Boise Rigging and proved tying a knot, like an overhand knot does in fact weaken the rope by up to 65% of the rope strength, but splicing the rope just like in the video above retains 100% of the rope strength. For more info on this you can contact our engineering department at 208-639-1674
Thanks for watching!
Factor 55 animated knot are an ok source for knots but check out the premium ropes video. The length of bury can be very short in a Brummel because of those tight turns but they also weaken the splice considerably. The buried tail will see very little pull
That's great information. We are finding more and more winch companies are burying less and less rope on their finished splices to save money.
It's not a brummel and yes a brummel splice is a very effective and reliant splice if used on the proper strength rope. The deep bury that is demonstrated in the video is stronger but the disadvantage is the fact that its transient and the rope can walk or work itself undone. You can visually inspect the security of a brummel very easily. Yes a Brummel reduces the strength of the rope but that's the very reason that most winch lines are rated for almost twice the pulling strentgh of the winches ability.
It's not a brummel. A brummel has the working end through the standing end, and then vice versa before the bury. This is closest in resemblance to what New England Ropes calls a Stitch Splice (which is different again from the concept of lock stitching, though the goal is the same). Brummels are stronger than basically any practical 'knot' in UHMWPE (short of 'knots' that use external tools like dog bones etc), but not as strong as long bury splice (with a long buried tail, ~72x rope diameter or longer).
If you are worried, just do a long bury splice and (relatively loosely) lock stitch it. Use stich thread that is approximately ~1/7th of the rope diameter.