Just as a recommendation from being a PC builder, DON'T over do how much paste you put on, this in itself can reduce the ability for the heat to be transferred to the heat sink, but yes you ideally want enough to cover the whole surface area. Once best answer i've seen is "The purpose of the paste is not to absorb heat but rather to displace any air that might be trapped between the two surfaces preventing the air from acting as an insulator"
I had 3 gu10 in a bathroom lamp, all went bad in less than 3 months( Chinese made junk), now I switched back to CFL, two yrs already still running good. Hello from South America
It's intentional. An incandescent used to be cheap to buy, lasted around 1k hours, and was replaceable. But now, the EU ban incandescent lamps, and force LED ones. Consumers are used to paying more for LED. So an LED lamp that blows more frequently will make the manafacturers even more money. They'd never sell ever-lasting bulbs, because they'd be out of business after a few years.
Good to know, I replaced a 1980’s fluorescent bulb fixture in my kitchen w an IKEA 3 LED light fixture and the bulbs keep blowing out. I noticed that they get hot as hell too so maybe this is why. However, I think I’m just going to get a new non LED fixture to replace it.
This is only one of a number of reasons why LED downlights fail. Most of mine have not failed due to the LEDs failing. It is the electronic circuits that have failed.
Almost definitely. The problem is that most of these designs are working, nominally, right at the edge of the temperature spec of the internal components. Just a little bit more temperature through a little lack of convection/conduction/radiation or simply a slight increase in ambient temperature above 'nominal' (e.g. the ceiling of a working kitchen or even a lounge with a fireplace) causes a rapid reduction in life. The components inside are borderline temperature rated to the working temperature of the unit. The technology was not developed enough to be marketed at the time it was. It was idiotic of governments to ban incandescent light bulbs as quickly as they did without putting in strict quality control regulations upon the alternatives (i.e. longevity testing at over temperature) and just shows what a lack of holostic understanding there was. Completely opposite to the intentions of such bans, from the environmental aspect, I wonder how many LED bulbs have been thrown away (often into landfill), and how much money has been wasted overall. Never mentioned was the fact that incandescent bulbs inside a house that had its heating turned on were, effectively, 100% efficient as all the so-called 'wasted' heat was simply offsetting the fuel used by the heating system. Of course this varies by country, depending on climate but it must be considered, certainly for colder countries. The same argument goes for beneficial distributed heating from 'standby' electronic items. The only time these items become inefficient is when a building's heating is switched off or when they are being used externally. Rant finished.
+Jim F not idiotic at all, as those governments were being advised by industry experts which are the manufacturers and distributors. Since incandescent light, bulbs are designed to fail, with some minimum requirements, as opposed to designed for long life (as with most commercial endeavours nowadays). Then you add some cut corners and cheapest possible manufacturing and the minimum requirements go out of the window. To the point where if an item can be repaired easily the item is purposely designed to be hack proof (most probably with the arguments around health and safety, and those will be enforced, of course due to h&s, electricity can be dangerous, but also to avoid having too many people improving the product).
Rincewind TheFirst - Incandescent lightbulbs fail quickly because the hotter the filament runs, the more efficient it is (in terms of lumens per watt). Incandescents are a tradeoff - if you design the filament to run cool, you will get very long life - even over 10,000 hours. But the amount of light energy generated will be a very low fraction of the total energy it makes (the rest being dissipated as invisible radiation in the infrared spectrum, i.e. heat). The hotter the filament, the shorter the life but the bigger the proportion of emissions in the visible spectrum (i.e. more light per watt of input power). With tungsten filaments the sweet spot is where current lightbulbs are - about 2000-3000 hours of life for maybe 15 lumens per watt. If you want to read more about the subject and look at the equations governing lifetime and efficiency, refer to Don Klipstein's excellent website on the subject (just Google it)
No. 1) There is no room in light fixture housing to add a small fan. 2) A small fan used in a pc would need a low voltage DC power supply instead of the high voltage AC power found in homes.
Just as a recommendation from being a PC builder, DON'T over do how much paste you put on, this in itself can reduce the ability for the heat to be transferred to the heat sink, but yes you ideally want enough to cover the whole surface area. Once best answer i've seen is "The purpose of the paste is not to absorb heat but rather to displace any air that might be trapped between the two surfaces preventing the air from acting as an insulator"
Was thinking the same
I had 3 gu10 in a bathroom lamp, all went bad in less than 3 months( Chinese made junk), now I switched back to CFL, two yrs already still running good. Hello from South America
It's intentional.
An incandescent used to be cheap to buy, lasted around 1k hours, and was replaceable.
But now, the EU ban incandescent lamps, and force LED ones.
Consumers are used to paying more for LED.
So an LED lamp that blows more frequently will make the manafacturers even more money.
They'd never sell ever-lasting bulbs, because they'd be out of business after a few years.
hello, can you tell me how you open the cover of a new type GU 10-5W bulb?
Video title is somewhat misleading since this is not how to fix anything but how to prevent
Very interesting. Just had some burnt last month and i still had some thermal paste laying arround. Next time i’ll do that!!!
Good to know, I replaced a 1980’s fluorescent bulb fixture in my kitchen w an IKEA 3 LED light fixture and the bulbs keep blowing out. I noticed that they get hot as hell too so maybe this is why. However, I think I’m just going to get a new non LED fixture to replace it.
Can you drill little hole to let the heat go out ?
Thanks for the useful info!!
This is only one of a number of reasons why LED downlights fail. Most of mine have not failed due to the LEDs failing. It is the electronic circuits that have failed.
Failed, perhaps, because they overheated?
Almost definitely. The problem is that most of these designs are working, nominally, right at the edge of the temperature spec of the internal components. Just a little bit more temperature through a little lack of convection/conduction/radiation or simply a slight increase in ambient temperature above 'nominal' (e.g. the ceiling of a working kitchen or even a lounge with a fireplace) causes a rapid reduction in life. The components inside are borderline temperature rated to the working temperature of the unit. The technology was not developed enough to be marketed at the time it was. It was idiotic of governments to ban incandescent light bulbs as quickly as they did without putting in strict quality control regulations upon the alternatives (i.e. longevity testing at over temperature) and just shows what a lack of holostic understanding there was. Completely opposite to the intentions of such bans, from the environmental aspect, I wonder how many LED bulbs have been thrown away (often into landfill), and how much money has been wasted overall. Never mentioned was the fact that incandescent bulbs inside a house that had its heating turned on were, effectively, 100% efficient as all the so-called 'wasted' heat was simply offsetting the fuel used by the heating system. Of course this varies by country, depending on climate but it must be considered, certainly for colder countries. The same argument goes for beneficial distributed heating from 'standby' electronic items. The only time these items become inefficient is when a building's heating is switched off or when they are being used externally. Rant finished.
+Jim F not idiotic at all, as those governments were being advised by industry experts which are the manufacturers and distributors. Since incandescent light, bulbs are designed to fail, with some minimum requirements, as opposed to designed for long life (as with most commercial endeavours nowadays). Then you add some cut corners and cheapest possible manufacturing and the minimum requirements go out of the window. To the point where if an item can be repaired easily the item is purposely designed to be hack proof (most probably with the arguments around health and safety, and those will be enforced, of course due to h&s, electricity can be dangerous, but also to avoid having too many people improving the product).
Rincewind TheFirst - Incandescent lightbulbs fail quickly because the hotter the filament runs, the more efficient it is (in terms of lumens per watt). Incandescents are a tradeoff - if you design the filament to run cool, you will get very long life - even over 10,000 hours. But the amount of light energy generated will be a very low fraction of the total energy it makes (the rest being dissipated as invisible radiation in the infrared spectrum, i.e. heat). The hotter the filament, the shorter the life but the bigger the proportion of emissions in the visible spectrum (i.e. more light per watt of input power). With tungsten filaments the sweet spot is where current lightbulbs are - about 2000-3000 hours of life for maybe 15 lumens per watt.
If you want to read more about the subject and look at the equations governing lifetime and efficiency, refer to Don Klipstein's excellent website on the subject (just Google it)
Can you put a small pc fan on it?
No.
1) There is no room in light fixture housing to add a small fan.
2) A small fan used in a pc would need a low voltage DC power supply instead of the high voltage AC power found in homes.
Thank you !
Maybe I shoul check mine in my bathroom